I tried explaining this to a person who asked "what the best compost consists of" for his outdoor, no-till, cannabis crop. Even though the conversation was digital, I know I heard crickets chirping and envisioned a deer standing still while staring at the headlights of my car.
This is cool, thank you for sharing! Dr. Ingham had her soils lab for a time in Kauai, on the site of a project conceived and managed by one of the people on our design team. He is a Permaculture Farmer, Chef, etc. and the property was a prior Guava farm and then new owner backed our person to design a farm-to-table restaurant, farm, composting operation, business incubator and most all food came from the property and if not at least within a 4 mile radius. This was other local farmers and fisherman and the menu adjusted accordingly. Several hundred meals served per day, he lived there about 3 years, the place is called "Common Ground". I lived in first Community in Oregon starting 1979 and was food growing coordinator...double-dug French Intensive style! with plenty of composting going on. In our group we also have another farmer, architect, artist, graphic designer from Mexico w/Master's in Sustainable Design, and a certified food grower. We design communities, farms, swimming pools too (hundreds actually), greenhouses, sustainable landscapes, etc. LOVE your content here......all of it is great...and thanks for posting.
Every plant selects different biology depending on its particular requirements at any given time in its life. It is always modifying its root exudates to stimulate and communicate with its microbiome. There's is ever growing research that a single modification in a plant gene of the same type such as organic corn vs gmo corn has a drastic effect on the soil microbiome of the plant and whether it's conducive towards pathogenic microbes or disease suppressive through its microbial diversity.
What does Elain think about Ruth Stout method? No tillage, no compost, only hay mulch, the garden starts producing in abundance right after the coverage, I have proof of that because in Italy we are many using this method (search conferences of Gian Carlo Cappello on youtube). I think that insulation of soil created thanks to the mulch is enough to increase dramatically the rate of bacteria and fungi to let them grow and create structures. Then the soil will improve even more overtime with all the roots, mychorrizal web and decayed organic matter.
As I see it, the hay mulch may work quite similar to compost in that it does provide organic matter with nutrients and microorganisms. As for the insulation, I think it's loose enough not to cut off air, but dense enough to reduce excess heat or cold, providing more stable conditions for the soil microbiome near the surface.
Ive been experimenting in the chihuahuan desert for many years now, as we have extremely sandy, nutrient poor, rhyolitic soil. It also gets very hot, and very cold here. Ive found that drought and heat resistance in alot of plants can actually be bred into existence over a relatively small number of generations. Ive grown cannabis my entire life as well as many tubers and different variants of corn. What ive documented is very obvious genetic mutations in cannabis plants AND heirloom corn plants over 5 or so generations in a drought and heat ridden environment, the seeds the plants produce will start mutating faster than if they were planted generationally in an ideal area. I think this observation can be useful in what she was mentioning about understanding what crops want what as far as fungi and bacteria in the soil go. If we can breed certain strains of plants to be more accepting of varius strains of fungi and bacteria in the soil, could we defeat drought intolerance or say, even photosynthesis? Bypassing those obstacles could allow for an entirely new wave of extremely hardy crops to become the new norm
In my knowledge you need to use mulch on plants. First which will help to save water, because mulch won't make water evaporate. second organic mulch always keep maintain soil temprature. which will help soil bacterias, fungi and all the soil biology to alive because we maintained soil temperature by using organic mulch. third mulch will resolve the issue of weeds. You have to make raised bed for plants and furrow for irrigation. mulch on raised bed. and no tillege is required. make an experiment on my suggestion.
Drip irrigation, diverse cover cropping and mulch layer will solve 90% of the water issues out there...no need to go all survival of the fittest or genetic engineering. 3.5 billion years of evolution did all that for us already. There are places with 10in or less annual rainfall with gorgeous lush green fields because of their cover cropping and no-tillage
I have a compost question. Can somebody give me a definitive answer as to whether or not one can successfully compost eucalyptus. I understand The reasons not to mulch the leaves on beds but I've seen so many posts also saying a good hot compost or loong passive compost will do well to remove most allelopathic compounds from the leaf matter. I'm not using for food producing beds. I'm using it to try bring sone organic matter back a very damaged old cattle pasture that is now our garden after having construction vehicles all over it. I know there might well be better material but, for now, I can't buy in anything and those eucalyptus are, by far the, largest source of organic material I have available just at present.
You can, pile them up in shallow piles on poor areas for a few months, resow the area as you take from the pile to compost. Even just laying green limbs over poor patches will help rehabilitate these less productive parts
Since I am stuipid as to crop rotation I will plan to have one or two of my vegetable garden rows in cover crops next season ( zone 6 Ohio so probably to late this season) . Question ❓. I'm clay base soil what do I need to plant to begin?
So I have a rather long comment... I have been developing my green belt here in bay city, Michigan zone 5 I have berms that are approx 3-3 1/2 ft tall the area next to the curb and sidewalk at ground level are dug down 16 inches with the cavity being filled with 3-4 inch rock to prevent loss of water via runoff and large watermelon size rocks are placed at bottom on top of rocks to (hold the berm in ) increasingly small rocks are stacked on top of each other up the face of the berm . The soil structure is made up of at ground level is large logs with fill clay dug out followed by finished compost and leaves finished by finished compost aged woodchips and builders sand (very porous) and winter leaves not shredded this year in the following year they will be. To the point I have observed 100s of isopods and the new (invasive ) jumping worm as well as regular worms in the soil (note I am not a no invasive type person) my problem is one of figuring out how to balance the vermicomposting critter population. I am more interested in fungally dominated soil not vermicompost. Are you aware of any beneficial nematode, predator, or soil innoculant That would re-balance the quantity of worms in the garden I’m not so concerned about isopods. While some level of everything is OK whether it be bacterial dominated soil, bokashu, etc I don’t like the destructive a fact worms can have on mycelium.
Hello Matt... Dr Ingham is amazing and it's such a privilege to hear her. I have a question which may be rather controversial but needs to be discussed instead of ignored in my opinion. There is more and more evidence that chem trailing ( politically correct term is cloud seeding ) is happening on a huge scale today. NASA does it, even they said that. What is it doing to our soil when the toxic chemicals fall to earth. 😞
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Dr. Elaine is such a visionary! Bless her and her decades of hard work! Thank you for this video.
When crunched ...I always find time for Elaine 🥳
One of the best and shortest explanations of soil biology I've ever seen, thank you.
Thank You for these videos Matt! I truly feel ecstatic watching any content with Dr. Elaine Ingham.
How do you balance this micro organisms in compost
when doing composting I just throw in some soil from my successful beds and some soil from forest along with leaves from there
This is a great and very smart practice! Bravo!!
I tried explaining this to a person who asked "what the best compost consists of" for his outdoor, no-till, cannabis crop. Even though the conversation was digital, I know I heard crickets chirping and envisioned a deer standing still while staring at the headlights of my car.
This is cool, thank you for sharing! Dr. Ingham had her soils lab for a time in Kauai, on the site of a project conceived and managed by one of the people on our design team. He is a Permaculture Farmer, Chef, etc. and the property was a prior Guava farm and then new owner backed our person to design a farm-to-table restaurant, farm, composting operation, business incubator and most all food came from the property and if not at least within a 4 mile radius. This was other local farmers and fisherman and the menu adjusted accordingly. Several hundred meals served per day, he lived there about 3 years, the place is called "Common Ground". I lived in first Community in Oregon starting 1979 and was food growing coordinator...double-dug French Intensive style! with plenty of composting going on. In our group we also have another farmer, architect, artist, graphic designer from Mexico w/Master's in Sustainable Design, and a certified food grower. We design communities, farms, swimming pools too (hundreds actually), greenhouses, sustainable landscapes, etc. LOVE your content here......all of it is great...and thanks for posting.
Thank you SO much for sharing..this was delightfully fascinating.
She is a True Master.
It will be a good idea to publish such videos with subtitles in other languages. This will even increase global sfw network, worldwide
Hello Matt
Thanks for sharing
❤❤❤❤
Great video thanks for sharing!
what happens if the inputs to compost are not organically grown? I mean of the cow manure is from cows fed with hay grown around herbisides?
There is algae, viruses and archae living in soil as well
Still looking for a nematode in my soil .. lol. Maybe I'll put some mature compost under the scope and see if there are any there...
You can always innoculate if there aren't many in there as is
Does every plant have different biology or is it all the same? In the other words, does wheat berries have the same biology as sorghum?
There's some overlap but there's great diversity too
Every plant selects different biology depending on its particular requirements at any given time in its life. It is always modifying its root exudates to stimulate and communicate with its microbiome. There's is ever growing research that a single modification in a plant gene of the same type such as organic corn vs gmo corn has a drastic effect on the soil microbiome of the plant and whether it's conducive towards pathogenic microbes or disease suppressive through its microbial diversity.
Now tilling some would be good for plants on th low end of succession right? Like amaranth?
Light tillage is very necessary for certain annuals ;) You can also make compost teas that favor that range.
What does Elain think about Ruth Stout method? No tillage, no compost, only hay mulch, the garden starts producing in abundance right after the coverage, I have proof of that because in Italy we are many using this method (search conferences of Gian Carlo Cappello on youtube). I think that insulation of soil created thanks to the mulch is enough to increase dramatically the rate of bacteria and fungi to let them grow and create structures. Then the soil will improve even more overtime with all the roots, mychorrizal web and decayed organic matter.
As I see it, the hay mulch may work quite similar to compost in that it does provide organic matter with nutrients and microorganisms. As for the insulation, I think it's loose enough not to cut off air, but dense enough to reduce excess heat or cold, providing more stable conditions for the soil microbiome near the surface.
Amazing
Ive been experimenting in the chihuahuan desert for many years now, as we have extremely sandy, nutrient poor, rhyolitic soil.
It also gets very hot, and very cold here. Ive found that drought and heat resistance in alot of plants can actually be bred into existence over a relatively small number of generations. Ive grown cannabis my entire life as well as many tubers and different variants of corn. What ive documented is very obvious genetic mutations in cannabis plants AND heirloom corn plants over 5 or so generations in a drought and heat ridden environment, the seeds the plants produce will start mutating faster than if they were planted generationally in an ideal area. I think this observation can be useful in what she was mentioning about understanding what crops want what as far as fungi and bacteria in the soil go. If we can breed certain strains of plants to be more accepting of varius strains of fungi and bacteria in the soil, could we defeat drought intolerance or say, even photosynthesis? Bypassing those obstacles could allow for an entirely new wave of extremely hardy crops to become the new norm
In my knowledge you need to use mulch on plants. First which will help to save water, because mulch won't make water evaporate. second organic mulch always keep maintain soil temprature. which will help soil bacterias, fungi and all the soil biology to alive because we maintained soil temperature by using organic mulch. third mulch will resolve the issue of weeds.
You have to make raised bed for plants and furrow for irrigation. mulch on raised bed. and no tillege is required. make an experiment on my suggestion.
Drip irrigation, diverse cover cropping and mulch layer will solve 90% of the water issues out there...no need to go all survival of the fittest or genetic engineering. 3.5 billion years of evolution did all that for us already. There are places with 10in or less annual rainfall with gorgeous lush green fields because of their cover cropping and no-tillage
Are you suggesting photosynthesis is an obstacle?
I have a compost question. Can somebody give me a definitive answer as to whether or not one can successfully compost eucalyptus. I understand The reasons not to mulch the leaves on beds but I've seen so many posts also saying a good hot compost or loong passive compost will do well to remove most allelopathic compounds from the leaf matter.
I'm not using for food producing beds. I'm using it to try bring sone organic matter back a very damaged old cattle pasture that is now our garden after having construction vehicles all over it. I know there might well be better material but, for now, I can't buy in anything and those eucalyptus are, by far the, largest source of organic material I have available just at present.
You can, pile them up in shallow piles on poor areas for a few months, resow the area as you take from the pile to compost. Even just laying green limbs over poor patches will help rehabilitate these less productive parts
Since I am stuipid as to crop rotation I will plan to have one or two of my vegetable garden rows in cover crops next season ( zone 6 Ohio so probably to late this season) .
Question ❓. I'm clay base soil what do I need to plant to begin?
Where can I get the paperwork at 8:02?
esajournals.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.2307/1942528
@@MattPowersSoil - Awesome, thanks! :-)
So I have a rather long comment... I have been developing my green belt here in bay city, Michigan zone 5 I have berms that are approx 3-3 1/2 ft tall the area next to the curb and sidewalk at ground level are dug down 16 inches with the cavity being filled with 3-4 inch rock to prevent loss of water via runoff and large watermelon size rocks are placed at bottom on top of rocks to (hold the berm in ) increasingly small rocks are stacked on top of each other up the face of the berm . The soil structure is made up of at ground level is large logs with fill clay dug out followed by finished compost and leaves finished by finished compost aged woodchips and builders sand (very porous) and winter leaves not shredded this year in the following year they will be. To the point I have observed 100s of isopods and the new (invasive ) jumping worm as well as regular worms in the soil (note I am not a no invasive type person) my problem is one of figuring out how to balance the vermicomposting critter population. I am more interested in fungally dominated soil not vermicompost. Are you aware of any beneficial nematode, predator, or soil innoculant That would re-balance the quantity of worms in the garden I’m not so concerned about isopods. While some level of everything is OK whether it be bacterial dominated soil, bokashu, etc I don’t like the destructive a fact worms can have on mycelium.
What a nice video, thank you for sharing. :)
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I wonder is she is talking about JLS microbes solution from JADAM?
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Hello Matt... Dr Ingham is amazing and it's such a privilege to hear her. I have a question which may be rather controversial but needs to be discussed instead of ignored in my opinion. There is more and more evidence that chem trailing ( politically correct term is cloud seeding ) is happening on a huge scale today. NASA does it, even they said that. What is it doing to our soil when the toxic chemicals fall to earth. 😞
Below 4 to 5 cm in soil its all anaerobic. Don't fear it just keep it where it belongs.
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