GREAT video! I have been trying to figure out how I needed to install this thing with my inverter. After 7,000 videos I stumbled across yours. Clear and concise and now I know exactly what to do! Thank you so much!
Thanks for the detail dive into your Victron Shunt Jerry, very excellent video! I hope you can share a short update to this once you start doing some boondocking
…too show on your Bluetooth how well the new 300AH performs given drawdown usage. Also a question related to that is how far of a drawdown on the battery does the victron app then count it as a recharge cycle. That would be interesting to know if you have that information. Thanks again and great job Jerry!
We full time, and I didn’t think we needed a new mattress. It was a 12” foam topper. I figured, yeah, this is nice. But man! My neck and back were aching, For 2 years! So this winter, we had had it. We were in Arizona, so we went by a Brooklyn Bedding showroom. And tried out the mattresses. We purchased it right there. Two days later, it showed up at the rv park. We took out the old mattress, and found out the original matteress was Still under the 12” foam pad. No wonder my back hurt. So we put in the new mattress, and I have never slept so well EVER! Even in my Sticks and bricks. I will be buying Brooklyn beds forever. 😊
Jerry, for clarification, you stated the positive 'terminal lead' from the shunt is "not used for reading, but just to power the device." Readers can decide for themselves but the actual manual instructs to actually have it be fitted back to your battery, logistically. Below is the manual for clarity. I'd love for a proficient Victron Rep actually chime in if there is some need for this 'specifically' and/or does it 'aid' in any reading parameter or can it be applied to a positive terminal, as you stated without system degredation. I know a Shunt reads from the Negative side of the battery, just presenting the clarification straight from the manual. To each their own and cheers! 3.4. Basic electrical connections Connection procedure: Connect the negative battery terminal to the M10 bolt on the "BATTERY MINUS" side of the shunt. Tighten the shunt bolt with a maximum torque of 21Nm. Note that there should be no other connections on this side of the shunt or on the negative battery terminal. Any loads or chargers connected here will be excluded from the battery state of charge calculation. Connect the negative of the electrical system to the M10 bolt on the "LOAD MINUS" side of the shunt. Tighten the shunt bolt with a maximum torque of 21Nm. Make sure that the negative of all DC loads, inverters, battery chargers, solar chargers and other charge sources are connected “after” the shunt. Connect the M10 eye terminal of the red cable with the fuse to the positive terminal of the battery. The battery monitor is now powered up. .
The manual confirmed my statement in the video to use the negative terminal from the battery. And further in the manual it will show where the positive lead from the battery is used for powering the power lead from the shunt. I’d suggest when watching any RUclips video to use as a guide for as a visual reference and to always use the manufacturer’s manual as the primary guide.
Victron needs to have a setting for AGM or Lithium in the setup for the shunt. There are different max discharge recommendations for lead acid/AGM batteries. Max discharge should be 50% of the rated Ah on the AGM battery. So if you have two 100ah battery, totaling 200Ah, you should only use 100Ah of that battery array to promote a healthy AGM battery. For those that know this AGM limitation may realize they need to put in 100Ah as the battery capacity, when they have two 100Ah 12V batteries in parallel. That reduced rating in the setup would give an accurate charge level for AGM batteries, to keep a healthy battery. I thought for sure my Victron app had a setting for the "type" of battery in the settings, but I guess I'm wrong. Maybe I'm thinking of the Victron solar controller setup where they ask for the type of battery.
It’s easy to set the smart shunt values manually and not use the presets. I do this often when I test the various sized batteries and the different charge values.
Great video and appreciate you sharing I have a question if only we can have one lead to the shunt negative battery terminal where would you suggest I connect my battery charger leads
Nice video. Do you know how to reset the smart shunt to factory default. The shunt on my RV won't connect any more although it is seen in the app. Thanks
I have a question. If you are at a campground and you have shore power how do you not have any 12v leech drain? I also have the smart shunt but even when at 100% I have some level of usage...like 3 watts or something just from the usb ports and stuff. For the video did you have the battery cut off on? Was it isolated??? Also, how long does yours show SOC at 100% once you start using it? I am always surprised at how fast mine goes to 99% then 98%. I only have 200ah of lithium and I guess that could be why.
In these evaluations I typically refer to vampire drain (leech). We’ll bring to 100% at start and the drain follows. Our largest consumption is the res fridge and it consumes a lot. For me, it depends exactly when we synchronize the shut to battery. Not too worried about how quickly we drop the first couple percent. It’s more how it sustains usable amps over time.
Does your smart shut mobile app show the percentage of battery when you use it the battery percentage goes down. Does yours show when you’re charging it? Does it show the percentage of battery going up. Say you’re on the road and your solar panels are charging the battery. Will it show an increase in batterypercentage. My smart shut does not it only shows discharging percentage and then I have to charge it 100% before recalculates. Is that normal? Please respond.
I have a question I am hoping someone can answer. I have a 2021 Forrest River. As delivered from the dealer I have two 85 aH batteries connected in parallel. The negative cable connects to a distribution bar under the rear bumper, and the positive connects to it's own distribution bar under the rear bumper, then feeds the loads. That being said, when I go to install this victron monitor shunt can I then simply install another negative distribution bar and another positive distribution bar to receive the cables from the batteries, then feed the existing distribution bars from the two new distribution bars? I am not sure if there is any problem having the new distribution bars feed the existing distribution bars which supply the load of the rv. I also plan to install a 2,000 watt inverter, so can the positive and negative cables from the inverter also be connected to the two new distribution bars? Just don't want to blow anything up! :)
Carolee. This is one of those questions that difficult to answer without a diagram. I can answer part. The shunt will only provide the total amperage used form a single negative lead from the battery. Also sounds as though the Arab chassis is being used for the primary ground.
You didn't need that distribution bar on the ground side? Just connect all your grounds to the other side of the shunt for trailer loads. Now you have extra unnecessary connections to go bad in the future.
Can I just watch a single video without someone trying to sell me a mattress. I get it you guys are trying to get compensated for your time on making the video, but you discredit yourself and your video when you are start your video with a long sales pitch.
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GREAT video! I have been trying to figure out how I needed to install this thing with my inverter. After 7,000 videos I stumbled across yours. Clear and concise and now I know exactly what to do! Thank you so much!
Thanks so much Carolee. Glad I was able to help.
Great video Jerry!!! Thanks for the update on the installation process, I feel confident with installing mine now!! Keep up the DIY videos.
Thanks Jeff
Wow, 3:30 infomercial before the video I thought I clicked on. 😮
Great show safe travels Have fun and make memories
Thanks Dean.
Thanks for the detail dive into your Victron Shunt Jerry, very excellent video! I hope you can share a short update to this once you start doing some boondocking
…too show on your Bluetooth how well the new 300AH performs given drawdown usage. Also a question related to that is how far of a drawdown on the battery does the victron app then count it as a recharge cycle. That would be interesting to know if you have that information. Thanks again and great job Jerry!
Thanks Jerry. Will do.
We full time, and I didn’t think we needed a new mattress. It was a 12” foam topper. I figured, yeah, this is nice. But man! My neck and back were aching, For 2 years! So this winter, we had had it. We were in Arizona, so we went by a Brooklyn Bedding showroom. And tried out the mattresses. We purchased it right there. Two days later, it showed up at the rv park. We took out the old mattress, and found out the original matteress was Still under the 12” foam pad. No wonder my back hurt. So we put in the new mattress, and I have never slept so well EVER! Even in my Sticks and bricks. I will be buying Brooklyn beds forever. 😊
Thanks Tracy. Brooklyn Bedding makes an excellent product.
Jerry, for clarification, you stated the positive 'terminal lead' from the shunt is "not used for reading, but just to power the device." Readers can decide for themselves but the actual manual instructs to actually have it be fitted back to your battery, logistically. Below is the manual for clarity. I'd love for a proficient Victron Rep actually chime in if there is some need for this 'specifically' and/or does it 'aid' in any reading parameter or can it be applied to a positive terminal, as you stated without system degredation. I know a Shunt reads from the Negative side of the battery, just presenting the clarification straight from the manual. To each their own and cheers!
3.4. Basic electrical connections
Connection procedure:
Connect the negative battery terminal to the M10 bolt on the "BATTERY MINUS" side of the shunt. Tighten the shunt bolt with a maximum torque of 21Nm.
Note that there should be no other connections on this side of the shunt or on the negative battery terminal. Any loads or chargers connected here will be excluded from the battery state of charge calculation.
Connect the negative of the electrical system to the M10 bolt on the "LOAD MINUS" side of the shunt. Tighten the shunt bolt with a maximum torque of 21Nm. Make sure that the negative of all DC loads, inverters, battery chargers, solar chargers and other charge sources are connected “after” the shunt.
Connect the M10 eye terminal of the red cable with the fuse to the positive terminal of the battery.
The battery monitor is now powered up. .
The manual confirmed my statement in the video to use the negative terminal from the battery. And further in the manual it will show where the positive lead from the battery is used for powering the power lead from the shunt. I’d suggest when watching any RUclips video to use as a guide for as a visual reference and to always use the manufacturer’s manual as the primary guide.
My stock mattress is awesome!
Victron needs to have a setting for AGM or Lithium in the setup for the shunt. There are different max discharge recommendations for lead acid/AGM batteries. Max discharge should be 50% of the rated Ah on the AGM battery. So if you have two 100ah battery, totaling 200Ah, you should only use 100Ah of that battery array to promote a healthy AGM battery. For those that know this AGM limitation may realize they need to put in 100Ah as the battery capacity, when they have two 100Ah 12V batteries in parallel. That reduced rating in the setup would give an accurate charge level for AGM batteries, to keep a healthy battery. I thought for sure my Victron app had a setting for the "type" of battery in the settings, but I guess I'm wrong. Maybe I'm thinking of the Victron solar controller setup where they ask for the type of battery.
It’s easy to set the smart shunt values manually and not use the presets. I do this often when I test the various sized batteries and the different charge values.
Great video and appreciate you sharing I have a question if only we can have one lead to the shunt negative battery terminal where would you suggest I connect my battery charger leads
Thanks! I have ours on a distribution bar past the shunt. Shows the charging as power “is reversed” back to the battery.
Nice video. Do you know how to reset the smart shunt to factory default. The shunt on my RV won't connect any more although it is seen in the app. Thanks
Thanks. Open app, tap the gear at the top, the tap the three dots on the top right and select reset to factory defaults.
I have the Solarflex 400. It seems to be displaying all the info I need. Just wondering if I need to install my Victron Shunt from previous trailer.
I added to make sure I could read the main output from the battery.
I have a question. If you are at a campground and you have shore power how do you not have any 12v leech drain? I also have the smart shunt but even when at 100% I have some level of usage...like 3 watts or something just from the usb ports and stuff. For the video did you have the battery cut off on? Was it isolated??? Also, how long does yours show SOC at 100% once you start using it? I am always surprised at how fast mine goes to 99% then 98%. I only have 200ah of lithium and I guess that could be why.
In these evaluations I typically refer to vampire drain (leech). We’ll bring to 100% at start and the drain follows. Our largest consumption is the res fridge and it consumes a lot. For me, it depends exactly when we synchronize the shut to battery. Not too worried about how quickly we drop the first couple percent. It’s more how it sustains usable amps over time.
Does your smart shut mobile app show the percentage of battery when you use it the battery percentage goes down. Does yours show when you’re charging it? Does it show the percentage of battery going up. Say you’re on the road and your solar panels are charging the battery. Will it show an increase in batterypercentage. My smart shut does not it only shows discharging percentage and then I have to charge it 100% before recalculates. Is that normal? Please respond.
It does all. I don’t have to recalibrate.
I have a 48v 100ahm lithium battery. Do I set the battery capacity to 100ahm or 480ahm?
100 amps and the voltage for 48V
I have a question I am hoping someone can answer. I have a 2021 Forrest River. As delivered from the dealer I have two 85 aH batteries connected in parallel. The negative cable connects to a distribution bar under the rear bumper, and the positive connects to it's own distribution bar under the rear bumper, then feeds the loads. That being said, when I go to install this victron monitor shunt can I then simply install another negative distribution bar and another positive distribution bar to receive the cables from the batteries, then feed the existing distribution bars from the two new distribution bars? I am not sure if there is any problem having the new distribution bars feed the existing distribution bars which supply the load of the rv. I also plan to install a 2,000 watt inverter, so can the positive and negative cables from the inverter also be connected to the two new distribution bars? Just don't want to blow anything up! :)
Carolee. This is one of those questions that difficult to answer without a diagram. I can answer part. The shunt will only provide the total amperage used form a single negative lead from the battery. Also sounds as though the Arab chassis is being used for the primary ground.
If I have two 2- 200ah batteries in parallel, do I set my battery capacity to 200ah or 400ah?
400 to show the total capacity of the string.
Nice
Thanks
You didn't need that distribution bar on the ground side? Just connect all your grounds to the other side of the shunt for trailer loads. Now you have extra unnecessary connections to go bad in the future.
Thanks
Omg where is your tclass fuse protecting your battery!
They weren’t supplied from the factory. I know! Have been added since the video.
Have you quit traveling and just doing product videos now😂
It’s phases. We’re in the mountains now. We try to share both travel and items that are helpful.
Can I just watch a single video without someone trying to sell me a mattress. I get it you guys are trying to get compensated for your time on making the video, but you discredit yourself and your video when you are start your video with a long sales pitch.
Took 9 minutes to get to the point to explain about what the video was about next time put a time stamp to when yourvgoing to get to the point
Appreciate you watching
4-minutes in before you started to sorta focus on what the title of the video is about. Boo.