Sewing an 1890s Victorian Blouse with *HUGE* Sleeves
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- Опубликовано: 16 сен 2024
- Just in time for Spring, a new Victorian-inspired blouse to add to your history bounding wardrobe. This 1890s Victorian shirtwaist is made using Truly Victorian TV494 - 1894 Shirtwaists - with a few easy sewing alterations. The blouse has wonderful big puff sleeves and is made from linen, the best fabric for hot weather!
Follow along as Lauren cuts, sews, messes up, corrects, and completes this great balloon sleeve blouse, perfect for a high fashion, couture look, but made with thrifty natural materials by the slow fashion power of her own hands.
Stuff in this video (some of these are affiliate links):
Pattern - Truly Victorian TV494 - trulyvictorian...
Buttonhole gauge - amzn.to/2WIgrWX
Brother serger 1034Dx - amzn.to/2WvXCWF
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- It's not bad, it's not bad.
The narrator: She was soon to discover that it WAS BAD.
hahaha....I need a british man with a deep voice....hey Chris!
i took a cue from our ancestors when i worked on an archaeological dig last year. long sleeves, as much linen as i could manage. it worked fairly well, though i’m a wimp and really really hate the sun. no sunburn though!
heck, me too. If I HAVE to be in the sun (and I live in a desert, so it's unavoidable) I wish to be fully covered!
My mum and a group of friends walked up Pen-y-Fan (a mountain in Wales) in full Edwardian outfits, including long skirts and apparently it wasn't actually all that hard to walk in
Redthreaded has done it too! Hooray for myth busting!
This was lovely! I look forward to more!
Yay, thank you!
I MUST have that nifty buttonhole gauge .
It’s a Simflex.
I also want one, but they’re kinda pricey, around $20 on Amazon.😕
I splurged and bought one a while ago. It is awesome!
Love that you didnt cut out the mistake. Very relatable and funny - in commiseration. Glad you powered through and we got to see it completed!
I think I've only ever had one project that went together swimmingly with no mistakes. One...in...almost 20 years LOL! It's a disservice to cut out the mistakes.
So true about the sun on your skin. The biggest issue is that modern fabrics have plastic in them. H and M are currently advertising garments made with 50% recycled PET bottles !!!!!!!! Sounds environmentally friendly, but, honesty, who wants to wear plastic based clothes in summer.
ugh, so right! natural fibers all the way!
I am currently wearing a shirtwaist that’s I made based on that same pattern (video about the sleeves on my channel)! I also suck at collars. That Elizabethan gown behind you is amazing! I hope we get a video on that!
thank you! I didn't record a video about making the bumblebee bodice, but I've been covering it on my blog - blog.americanduchess.com/search/label/1630s
I love your wonder woman shirt
thanks!
Walking around everywhere in high heels isn’t actually that hard. If the heels are low and you wear them all the time.
I wear my heels (about 1 and 1/2 to 2 inch high) everywhere to help my foot position for my plantar fasciitis. And I was traipsing along on a slippery rocky path on a tour. And this other person who’d been wearing sneakers had skid marks down her whole side from slipping on the same mossy rocks I walked all over, without slipping at all.
Just a comfortable-with/confidence thing. She probably had just been wearing the sneakers recently or had only put them on for the hike.
Also if you walk in heels on your toes mostly, you’re better balanced.
TL:DR - they were wearing those heels everywhere. So they were totally comfortable in them. And likely didn’t get sand anywhere because they were good sturdy leather boots. (Like the Renoir boots that should be arriving in my mail box soon. ‼️)
Oh, I'm with you - I've walked all over in heels, all through rocks and whatnot. Sand, well, I have trouble walking in sand in any shoes and in no shoes, lol, so it's not the heels faults, lol
if you're the kind who naturally walks on the tip of your toes, then getting some heeled leather boots with very grippy soles should be enough to compete with a lot of casual modern shoes made for urban environments. and the fun thing about skipping around on big rocks is that you only use the tip of your toes anyway, so its one of my favorite activities which im probably better at in well-fitted well-worn boots, god i love that feeling of ones old shoes, is there anything more wonderful than walking naturally and freely?
I love the boots I ordered from you, and even with the heels I feel I could easily walk on sand. Shoes were just made different.
Glad you like them!
I'm now going to use "chesticular region" from now on instead of bust
hahahaha
I feel you with the backward sleeve thing. I was working on a 1920's dress last year and put one of the sleeves in backwards. Unfortunately, I didn't notice until I was wearing the dress at my event. Thank goodness you really can't tell except that the gathers at the elbow are on the inside of my elbow instead of the outside.
hey, if you can't tell, is it really wrong? ;-)
The blouse came out sooo cute! I absolutely need one of those buttonhole gauges!!
yessss, they're magic!
Added to my list called “My Victorian Inspired Wardrobe” list. I’ve been looking for that “perfect white shirt” tutorial for years!
The search is over! Thank you!
Subbed and belled!
❤️, A Dorothy In Kansas
I'm so glad you explained which way the sleeves go in. I was so frustrated by it because I couldn't figure it out
I paused the video to read the sizing directions 3:13 and went back to read the size chart 2:55 then back to the directions. I was screaming frustration in my head. Thank goodness I now sew vicariously. ;)
Seriously Lauren, thank you for including us in the process so that we can all learn WITH you. I am genuinely very grateful to you for your kindness and generosity,
Big love and gratitude
thank you so much!
This was a beautiful project!
I know I'm a little late to the party, but I may have an easier way to do gathers. My mom taught me ages ago to zigzag over a length of crochet cotton just inside the seam line (in the seam allowance). Gather as normal, then after the finished seam is sewn, carefully remove the crochet cotton to reduce bulk. I hope I've explained it ok, I've used it for everything from doll clothes and skirts to sleeves and teasing into cuffs. Works every time, well as long as you don't sew into the crochet cotton! Much love from Oklahoma!!
I love it. We all make mistakes. That’s what sewing is all about. Learning that nothing is perfect and mistakes are made. That’s what seam rippers are for. Mine is much loved. 😂
my much beloved but abused seam ripper! lolll
Mock-ups are awesome with cabbage or recycle materials. It can teach you many things like the 18th century shift pattern I'm learning one a old bed sheet.
@@ashleyalexwallace I love getting old bed sheets from goodwill for this
Linen always makes a beautiful piece. Lovely!
It turned out so nice! I've been trying to find a nice simple blouse pattern so i might give this one a try!!
I recommend it! Now you know the "watch points" too
Cute!!!! I have to say I have never seen anyone serge after seams are sewn together.
It's how most commercial garments are done. It cuts down bulk, but it also makes it harder to open those seams up later.
That buttonhole gauge blew my mind
it's SO useful!
I love ther t-shirt with 40s button trousers look... thats actually my go to for work!
haha, it's my uniform loll
WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN ALL MY LIFE BEAUTIFUL WOMAN? I absolutely love historic fashion, your channel looks like a gold mine! Please keep up the vintage fashion tutorials!💕
Watch the secret Santa video and then follow for the 14 or so other channels. Lol
thank you! We have a vintage pincurl setting "diary" coming soon.
Those sleeves are like fluffy clouds 😍
Have i been pining over this exact shirtwaist for two years now? Yes. Have i made it? No.
no worries - it will happen when it wants to :-)
1890-1920 the Sun was in a solar minimum called the Centennial Minimum. While there were some very hot day and weeks during this period (including world record heat recorded in Death Valley during 1913), it was overall cooler then than it is here at the end of the Modern Solar Maximum.
I am now buying this pattern 🤣 The final garment is stunning! I feel your pain as you reach for the seam ripper 😬
excellent! now you know what NOT to do, too, lol
So sorry about ur mom lots of lo e and hugs to you
Collar looks so nice. Crisp!
thank you!
i would wear this everyday if i could..love that victorian style
There's absolutely nothing wrong with being a dorky need Lauren. Love the videos I've seen!
hahaha, thank you
I feel your pain. I too have put sleeves in the wrong way. I hate to admit it but until I got back into sewing about six years ago I never realised that there were different notches on back/front of sleeve
my terrible secret - I forget all about the notches too, lol. This pattern doesn't have any, though, so even more confusing.
It's a lovely blouse! I like how it works in the linen--body and drape at the same time.
Thank you! 😊
wow this is coming at just the right time. just started an anne of green gable inspired ensemble!
perfect! puff sleeves!
Absolutely beautiful
Very jazzy! Cool project.
thanks!
I appreciate your pant style.
thanks!
Congratulations on making leg o' mutton sleeves look cute! Your shirtwaist is well done, love it!
thank you! If ever there were a time to rock wacky sleeves again...
That is my favorite Shirtwaist pattern!!!
Also I'm loving your sewing space! So nice!
oh thanks! I feel like it's so cluttered
@@AmericanDuchess1 HAHA You'd die if you saw mine. Mine is far more cluttered... I get half a room for my sewing space. And the shirt came out great!
I know I have already made a comment but I’m not quite sure if you understand how EXCITED I am to make this blouse! I’m like, “Stop, drop and get out the way! I’ve got the fabric and pattern for The Perfect White Shirt!!!”
WOOHOO! LET’S DO THIS... tomorrow. It’s like four a.m.
Good morning and thanks again!
Wonderful! Can't wait to see the final result!
I just bought the chemise and drawers pattern and have every intention of making them out of either linen or muslin, and I’m not sure how the sizing will work for someone with a bit more endowments than she likes! Glad to see the professionals are having fun with this style! Love the blouse and please stay safe and healthy!
make a mockup! (I say, as I'm terrible at making mockups, lol). Truly Victorian patterns are fantastic for all sizes and endowments. The sizing system seems to work quite well!
American Duchess Oh, definitely! In fact I’ll probably make several wearable mockups out of something cute like superhero fabric just because I can!
I just finished the chemise and am halfway through the drawers. The chemise came out a bit big tbh. Despite my endowments. Lol
"Quick sanity check"-- I've never related to anything more.
Amazing! Thanks for the tip about cutting the sleeves on the bias 💕
No problem!!
I like the idea of making it longer without the peplum thing. Makes it easier to pair with modern bottom things, which most of don't sit on the natural waist. I'm working on one now with balloon sleeves rather then the leg o' mutton.
It worked pretty well - although if I did it again I'd add even more on to the bottom, like a total of maybe 10 inches.
@@AmericanDuchess1 I think I'll try that on this one
I love finding new sewing videos to watch
Many times I will baste the sleeve in before machine sewing. It eliminates having all those pins when using the machine. Also, you can check the fit and placement. I love this blouse. I am planning to make the TV Countryside Blouse for history bounding.
Yes, I always baste the sleeves in too. I basted these, ermmm....2 times? The issue was that it was not marked on the pattern which side of the sleeve was the front and which was the back, so I had to make a guess, and my guess was wrong.
The buttonhole gauge is called slimflex expanding sewing gauge and i found it on amazon and it looks like you can order it from walmart too.
there's also a link in the description
Hi
Your sewing machine is the same as mine .
Grettings from Phoenix AZ 🌵🌵😁
Glad to see that I'm not the only person that plays with various garment pieces during construction.
oh yes - never just one thing going at one time
Wow 🤩 looks amazing, I loved watching this
Thank you so much 🤗
I agree about collars, hate them, give me sleeves any day
it's such a carp-shoot with collars, lol. Sometimes they play nice (like this one) and sometimes...well.....
Lauren, the blouse is lovely! But, I could not help, but laugh at what you were going through. Any good designer and sewer experiences bumps along the way. It makes one appreciate the process even more when done. By the way, the gown on the mannequin was absolutely exquisite. Will you be doing a tutorial on it, because I would loved to see the process? Stay healthy and strong!
Thank you! Hey, #sewingishard lol - it never goes nicely for me! I missed the video-making boat on the yellow and black bodice, but I've been blogging about it here - blog.americanduchess.com/search/label/1630s
@@AmericanDuchess1, I have been sewing for a long time and I have had those days when the sewing gods are not on my side either. It comes with the territory. I will definitely check out the blog. Take care, dear!
I've been waiting to visit Lanzarote for a year now, since I visited Gran Canaria.
It looks and sounds like the perfect place to reset your mind.
it's pretty amazing!
Lovely little blouse.
Really nice work.
And yeah don't get to upset over sleaves going in the wrong way...I make my living through sewing and I sometimes sew in sleaves the wrong way.
And once more, exelent work.
Thank you! 😊
I watched this today and completely enjoyed watching and learning as you sewed this 1894 shirtwaist. I also really appreciate all the tips and the information about the pattern and fabrics that you included.
Glad you enjoyed it!
While the blouse is lovely,(and the sewing tips useful) that black and yellow dress in the background in WOW!
thank you! Bumblebee Bodice is my current long-term project (and my pride and joy)
this was so cool! I am very tempted to drop my ongoing projects for a sec and make myself an 1890s blouse now!
Costume A-D-D - I'm terrible at sticking to projects (it's a miracle this one, and this video, got done). Have to say, though, the pattern does go together quickly...
It's beautiful I love it! When you first put the sleeve on I laughing because now I have an idea on how to make a Chancellor Palpatine cosplay if I ever so wish. But it turned out amazing, truly.
Wonderful!
I adore this type of blouse and yours turned out beautiful . Yep been there with the sleeves thing I feel your pain .
Thank you! 😊
It's very beautiful. Love those sleeves. The whole outfit is just FABULOUS.
Thank you so much!
I appricate so much that I am not the only who puts things in 2 or 3 times....
or 4...or 5, lol....#sewingishard
I am just about to make those sleeves for a blouse!!! This was so helpful as I make my plan for it!! Thanks so much!
Glad it was helpful!
Super pretty!
Thank you! 😊
To keep cool... Parasol's or very large golf umbrellas. I have a very large golf umbrella. I would like a very nice, feminine, mid-sized parasol.
I do love parasols, but sometimes they're quite impractical, like on windy days or when you are working with your hands.
@@AmericanDuchess1 A good neighbor of mine was going to throw away his broken patio umbrella. And I asked if I could please have it. The long pole that went through the table was missing. Perfect for putting on its side in my garden while I'm weeding. If it's a little breezy I put a brick or two on the edge. I am 70. I can get away with that kind of craziness. Besides, it has flowers all over it!🌹🖖🕊 Bless you and your family and friends.
I love my buttonhole gauge!!! It is so useful for buttonholes and also pleats.
I totally agree!
LOVE this! I always think about our ancestors making this sort of thing and how they would marvel at our modern conveniences, like when you adjusted the tension on your sewing machine or not having to heat up an iron on a stove.
plus enough light to see by and climate controlled heated/cooled rooms. also a link to someone to answer their questions.
So true!
It's absolutely lovely, darling!!! And I so do love that headdress at the beginning of the video. The blouse could also be a top foundation for a wedding dress.
Yes! Thank you!
You do yourself a disservice Loren - I learned sew much (see what I did 😆), I really enjoyed your video tutorial and learned lots of tips from your way of working. Thanks for sharing. The end result looked stunning. Greetings from North Wales UK. 😃
Oh thank you!
Beautiful job
Thank you! 😊
Blouse is super cute with the tie on the front.
thanks!
The sleeves on the pattern illustration are so much bigger than the way it turned out, but it looks better that way. I was thinking when I saw the illustration "Now that's way to big", and I am a fan of the leg-o-mutton sleeve.
that's true - but that's the difference between an idealized drawing and ... reality :-\
It depends on if you are wearing sleeve plumpers or not. Without them you get a much less extravagant silhouette.
So timely, as I'm about to make that very pattern! Thank you for making the mistakes for me. ;P (I'll make plenty of my own sleeve mistakes, but be assured, I'll be watching this again...)
You're so welcome! Glad I can help
I love this pattern! I finished my shirtwaist 2 weeks ago! As a beginner the instructions were really easy to follow I think, I did have to make the armholes larger and the sleeves tighter tho. Definently will re-use it with a nice plain linen like yours! Your result is lovely!!
Wonderful!
I wish I could see as well as you. You are super talented. I love the blouse❤️Thank you for sharing.
thank you! anybody can sew, it just takes a little practice. I wish I'd taken a sewing basics class when I started, as it would've covered a lot of the basics. I am sure there are online classes for just this very thing nowadays.
This is wonderful! And I especially like that tip about basting the collar on. I should probably know that already, but I have had poor success with collars in the past, and I can see this helping. The hints on gathering were also helpful as well.
glad it was helpful! Collars always perplex me because it doesn't look like they'll fit the band. You gotta stretch them a little bit, I guess, and work sortof "in the round," at least in my experience.
It turned out great! 👕
thank you!
Your front shoulder seam. Try some pin tucks, thin ones. They will match the style better.
I like the dart just fine, thanks.
@@AmericanDuchess1 And that is all that truly matters ! 🕊🌞
Buttonhole marker?! That's so handy! :D I didn't even know about that. Now I will try to find that!
Handy gadget indeed! There should be a link to the product in the video description
I have a regency gown that I made a couple of years ago with puffed sleeves, which I noticed after I wore it to a ball had actually been put in the wrong way. It was white embroidery on white fabric so it wasn't immediately noticable but it now haunts me when it comes to that dress even though you can't tell unless one looks closely and is perfectly functional
can they be removed and set in again? I know it can be a pain if there's no seam allowance left
If ever there was a "dun dun duuuun" sleeve fitting moment. Made me laugh. Glad to know I am not alone!
hahah, thank you!
Like the puffy sleeved blue sweater as well, very cute.
thanks! Emmy Design Sweden made that cardigan and most of my others. Highly recommend.
@@AmericanDuchess1 Thanks I used to have a gorgeous grey sweater with mutton sleeves and your blue one made me yearn for another! I will definitely look into your recommendation.
you had me at "degree in animation". cuz, I mean, dude same. Said degree is not leading me down the path I thought it would. xD
Did you go to San Jose State by chance?
@@AmericanDuchess1 Art Institute of Portland (Oregon).... and then it closed the week I graduated.
Absolutely love it 😍
Thank you!! 😊
BTW love your owl decoration, so cute!
I like smaller sleeves but they look soooo good on you!
thanks!
Ahahahaha here I am, 2AM in the morning, not able to sleep due to a migraine... And your video making me laugh out loud because of the Mannequin saying "please, stop" when you hit it with your elbow!
Okay I just rewinded and now I am actually crying from laughing.
hahaha, you're the only person to notice that so far ;-)
@@AmericanDuchess1 Ahahaha are you serious?! That was the best part of the video!! Editing wise. You are amazing too. Stay safe and stay awesome!
I have made the same mistakes with sleeves. Thank you for showing your process. I love the finished garment!
You are so welcome!
Thanks for sharing your tips, tricks, and mistakes. I'm going to be making a shirtwaist (once I find a pattern I like) and it was really helpful to see you make one.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much for posting this. I wanted to do a blouse like this for a cosplay of mine and had no idea how to start. Much appreciated ♡
Glad I could help!
I didn't know I need to make this blouse but now I know!
Thanks! I have this pattern too, and was planning to make it soon.
I really wish American Duchess made women's shoes in men's sizes XD
Girl SAME
It is so cute!!!
thanks!
this was such a cool video i'm planning to order this pattern for a project and it's awesome to see a video on someone making a blouse with the same pattern I plan to use myself, perfect to see how it's constructed and good for notes etc.
Glad it was helpful!
I love the blouse, it ist so pretty! And I loved the video, I think it was so relaxing! Thank you so much! I really hope you are planing on making more :)
thank you so much! I haven't edited a video in yearsssssss so it's really great to hear you say that. Yes, I have more video making ideas and plans
You don't want to know how many times I've done the sleeve screw-up!! Or maybe you do....Anyhoo, great tip about ironing the gathers before sewing; always an issue with me, especially as my arthritis is making my finger manipulation more and more difficult. Looks lovely and light!
Glad you found the ironing gathers part useful. I love that little trick - saves a lot of wrangling.
Intriguing historical aspects the shoulder adjustment no doubt affected your armhole thereby side seam fit but y know how to conquer .👌🏾✌🏿👼🏿🙍🏽😍
yes, the side seam was further back than true side. I need to make a note to re-adjust that next time I use this sort of fitting system.
... I need one!