Thanks! Following your video I just finished replacing the rod bearings and it went really well. The last part of getting the housing stuffed back in place was a challenge but you clearly demonstrated that as well which gave me confidence to tap it into place with a 12 ox soft hammer. All is well and torqued to spec! Thank you.
Fascinating video. Had no idea this could be done. I drive the same car with 248,000 miles with decent maintenance and perfect oil change history. It's been a great car and trying to get her to 300,000 miles before handing it off.
Thank you for the video, I really appreciate it. With your video as a reference, my nephew and I successfully changed the rod bearings on my car. My bearings were shot, and it was knocking quite a bit. Thanks to this video, everything went flawlessly. I, too, found the rod journals to be in good shape even though the rod bearings were eaten up. You are the man!
I will be attempting this repair on Saturday. The parts are in the mail. Hopefully it fixes my problem. My knock is incredibly loud and deep. The car is experiencing power loss at highway speeds, but has driven over 2k miles this way, so I’m confident it can be repaired.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotiveI could not get the cover off. I got everything out of the way but I found massive metal shards and chunks in my oil pan. It’s surely dead.
Update, The car is back together and after starting and running for a few minutes the engine noise is unchanged. It is a significant ticking sound just like the sound demonstrated early on in your video. I was concerned that I was on the wrong trail because the rod bearings were like new - practically no wear. After lurking around in PriusChat I found that a broken piston skirt has the same symptoms as I am experiencing. When I pulled the oil pan I noticed a chunk of metal and set it aside and finished the bearing replacement. Turns out the pc is a piston skirt, this is a well covered topic in PriusChat, Expensive lesson for me from a time standpoint, now I know. I will likely replace the motor.
my crankshaft position sensor was broken off. would this be a easy way to remove it? getting access from the inside? ive tried everything and its not budging
The best way would be pulling the timing cover off. I'll link to a video that's not live yet but I'll let you view it ahead of others to help you out. Let me know if you have any questions. ruclips.net/video/pgVcpThpTzc/видео.html
Yeah, the timing cover really isn't too bad of a removal. The only thing is you would need to suspend the engine with something like a 2x4 and ratchet strap because the motor mount gets removed. But that's an easy obstacle to overcome. I'm rebuilding a gen 2 Prius engine in the vehicle at the moment. I hope to have those videos out sometime soon. It's been a fun project.
Yeah in my case it’s the piston that needs to be replaced so the head must come off too. I’ll be changing the rod and crank bearings as well of course while I’m at it. Thank you for your videos.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive - Can "reinstall" motor mount with timing cover off! The part that bolts to engine of course leave loose but well-threaded. Parts snug for the other two pieces.... engine now suspended.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive That's brilliant! I recently discovered the same, that the mount does not directly attach to the block but rather the timing chain cover (kind of an interesting design choice from toyota but obviously it has worked well for these cars). As a result I became a bit discouraged from attempting the rod bearings, fearing that I'd replace everything correctly but be unable to get a good enough seal with the timing chain cover if it had been left in place. Next time I walk out to the car I'll check for places to wrap a strap around!
T60 torx works great on the 12mm hex oil filter part. I couldn’t find my 12hex. I measured the T60 torx from tip to tip across and it’s 12mm so I went an used it, perfect fit smooth extraction.
I'm looking at the part numbers for the rod bearings. Are two of them stamped the same? All I'm seeing is 3 rod bearings when shopping for parts. Are cylinders 1 and 4 rod bearings the same part number maybe?
As far as I understand it, each connecting rod has a number stamped on the cap. That number corresponds to what bearing goes in it. But you can't predict the number until you pull it apart and look at it. The set I installed was from DNJ. They didn't have any numbers on their bearings. It was one side fits all.
@@aj9176 The bearings I used were standard size from DNJ. I have a link in the description. They are a pretty well known brand. I've been happy with this set.
I took off the oil pan yesterday and there were large chunks. I took off the large tray today, and there is a piston skirt that is broken. The piston caps are loose left to right, but not forward backward... could those bearings cause the pison skirt to crack? Zero codes, 2006, 264k miles. No noise with seafoam. But new oil, and the same sound as yours had! Thoughts?
The connecting rod moving side to side is ok. It's front to back or up and down movement you don't want. The noise could be coming from the piston and not the rods. Typically piston damage comes from heat stress (lack of lubrication) or pre-ignition. If the cylinder walls aren't too damaged you can take the head off and replace the pistons and rings.
Hoping this is similar for the 2010-2015... I cant find a reference video, but bought a prius with a pretty bad rod knock and hoping its this easy to change. Fingers crossed!
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Thanks a ton for replying! Mainly concerned with the upper pan coming off like yours did. Can't seem to find a video online where anybody has done it already.
Really great video, thank you. I'm endeavoring to do the same to my Prius. Was curious if there have been any issues with the upper oil pan since. I'm nervous about that seal given such a tight fit going back in. Any other problems several months later? Thanks!
No oil leaks or any other issues. It is a tight fit though. I'll have a timing chain video on one of these coming out soon. It's up to you if you want to wait to see what pulling timing cover off looks like.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Turned out the cylinders had a lot of damage, so I ended up not doing the bearings after all. Almost want to find another one to try the repair anyway...haha
Awesome! Was wondering if could get to all cylinders parts from below. Unfortunately, I found that I have a P0301 code on a friends car I'm considering buying with a hole in the center of the piston. Well, thinking I all isn't bad on the inside, will need to pull the head off as well. Any suggestions to be looking out for and considering before doing? Thanks for sharing, liked, commented and subscribed.
The whole engine can be rebuilt in vehicle. The main bearings and rod bearings you can get from underneath but the pistons come out of the top so the head needs to be removed. But all in all it's not a bad job. I would recommend checking to see what kind of damage if any there is in the cylinder walls and head/ valves.
Not that I know of. The number is stamped on the connecting rod. This is the only one I've done so I'm not sure if there's a pattern to these. Some aftermarket sets don't give you a thickness difference, DNJ just sells one size for all four 🤔. If you plan on keeping the car for a long time I would recommend pulling the pan to get the numbers then order them from your local Toyota dealer. While you're waiting for the parts you can pull the timing cover off. The valve cover comes off first then the crank pulley and water pump pulley. Then it should just be a bunch of bolts holding it on.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Thanks a lot. I'll buy the aftermarket set since the thickness difference between OEM's 1,2,3 bearings is small relative to the maximum oil clearance. Maximum bearing thickness difference = 1.5-1.491 = 0.009mm Oil clearance range = 0.06 - 0.016 = 0.044mm I guess the undersized bearing is for people who had to machine the crank. I also found a video where someone pulled the timing cover off to change the head gasket. Your video is much better than that one. It seems to be quite a lot of work to pull the cover. I'll try it your way first. If I can't put the pan back, I'll then try pulling the timing cover.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive I took the engine apart following your video. My rod bearings looks ok. I guess my engine knocking/rattling problem comes from elsewhere. It did run low on oil (about 1-2 qt left) and had a lot of silver metal flakes in the oil. That's why I guessed it's the rod bearings. I'll check the crank bearing and cylinders tomorrow. Do you have other suggestions? If I can't fix this problem, I'll probably put everything back together and shop for a junkyard engine.
Id of went 13 ftlbs plus 90 degrees on those torque to yield rod bolts stretching them the same amount as stock sometimes ends badly when it comes to clearances a little loose youll never know it when it comes to torque to yield fasteners though a little tighter than spec is better if your gonna chance reusing them toyota does use really decent hardware though
@@mr2fas2 I've rebuilt plenty of Yotas also seen the carnage when a torque to yield bolt wasn't stretched enough I said an extra initial 2 ft lbs because he didn't have a stretch gauge trust me if they are a little tight you will never know a little loose and uncle Rodney will be crashing through the side of your block like the Cool Aid man I've been building performance engines and doing standard rebuilds for 25 years I was building 9,000 rpm Lima ford's when I was 14 years old finished top place in the tri state regional competitions for performance automotive machining and rebuilding against over 20 other classes of students know guys from Millets Kammer&Kammer and Ohio George Montgomery's shop on a personal basis my Dad built race cars and engines since the late 60's he was a chassis builder and built a lot of cars these shops built engines for so I met and watched some of the best in the business over years build everything from Omni 4cyl turbos to John Forces prostock Hemis I'm not just some kid giving my two cents
Thanks for highlighting the bolt size through out the video!
Thanks!
Following your video I just finished replacing the rod bearings and it went really well. The last part of getting the housing stuffed back in place was a challenge but you clearly demonstrated that as well which gave me confidence to tap it into place with a 12 ox soft hammer. All is well and torqued to spec! Thank you.
Awesome! Glad it went well 👍. I love Prius they are great little cars.
@@johnstefanick5216 Awesome! Glad this video was helpful 🙂. Thanks for the Super Thanks 👍
Fascinating video. Had no idea this could be done. I drive the same car with 248,000 miles with decent maintenance and perfect oil change history. It's been a great car and trying to get her to 300,000 miles before handing it off.
Thank you for the video, I really appreciate it. With your video as a reference, my nephew and I successfully changed the rod bearings on my car. My bearings were shot, and it was knocking quite a bit. Thanks to this video, everything went flawlessly. I, too, found the rod journals to be in good shape even though the rod bearings were eaten up. You are the man!
Awesome job Matt! I was pleasantly surprised how relatively simple this was to do.
That’s pretty awesome. Anything not found in the video a non-mechanic tackling this job might want to know ?
That is a very informative video. Thanks to this video I replaced my rod bearings and got rid off the knocking sound.
Thank you
Awesome! Glad this worked for you 👍
I will be attempting this repair on Saturday. The parts are in the mail. Hopefully it fixes my problem. My knock is incredibly loud and deep. The car is experiencing power loss at highway speeds, but has driven over 2k miles this way, so I’m confident it can be repaired.
@@FloridaFitBoy Hopefully this fixes it. Let us know how it goes 👍
@@ValleyMobileAutomotiveI could not get the cover off. I got everything out of the way but I found massive metal shards and chunks in my oil pan. It’s surely dead.
@FloridaFitBoy Ah bummer 😕. I was hoping it was just the bearings.
Update,
The car is back together and after starting and running for a few minutes the engine noise is unchanged. It is a significant ticking sound just like the sound demonstrated early on in your video. I was concerned that I was on the wrong trail because the rod bearings were like new - practically no wear. After lurking around in PriusChat I found that a broken piston skirt has the same symptoms as I am experiencing. When I pulled the oil pan I noticed a chunk of metal and set it aside and finished the bearing replacement. Turns out the pc is a piston skirt, this is a well covered topic in PriusChat, Expensive lesson for me from a time standpoint, now I know. I will likely replace the motor.
Thanks brother i learning a lot from you I’m not mechanic but I fix transmission too
@@congkhanhnguuyen3292 Nice! Glad this video was helpful 🙂
my crankshaft position sensor was broken off. would this be a easy way to remove it? getting access from the inside? ive tried everything and its not budging
The best way would be pulling the timing cover off. I'll link to a video that's not live yet but I'll let you view it ahead of others to help you out. Let me know if you have any questions. ruclips.net/video/pgVcpThpTzc/видео.html
Seems like avoiding the removal of the timing cover was more trouble than it was worth but you proved your point that it didn’t NEED come off!
Yeah, the timing cover really isn't too bad of a removal. The only thing is you would need to suspend the engine with something like a 2x4 and ratchet strap because the motor mount gets removed. But that's an easy obstacle to overcome. I'm rebuilding a gen 2 Prius engine in the vehicle at the moment. I hope to have those videos out sometime soon. It's been a fun project.
Yeah in my case it’s the piston that needs to be replaced so the head must come off too. I’ll be changing the rod and crank bearings as well of course while I’m at it. Thank you for your videos.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive - Can "reinstall" motor mount with timing cover off! The part that bolts to engine of course leave loose but well-threaded. Parts snug for the other two pieces.... engine now suspended.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive That's brilliant! I recently discovered the same, that the mount does not directly attach to the block but rather the timing chain cover (kind of an interesting design choice from toyota but obviously it has worked well for these cars). As a result I became a bit discouraged from attempting the rod bearings, fearing that I'd replace everything correctly but be unable to get a good enough seal with the timing chain cover if it had been left in place. Next time I walk out to the car I'll check for places to wrap a strap around!
T60 torx works great on the 12mm hex oil filter part. I couldn’t find my 12hex. I measured the T60 torx from tip to tip across and it’s 12mm so I went an used it, perfect fit smooth extraction.
@@JP-gw9ts Hey nice hack! Thanks 👍
Thanks for the great video! Can you recommend any video for taking the engine timing cover off?
I'm looking at the part numbers for the rod bearings. Are two of them stamped the same? All I'm seeing is 3 rod bearings when shopping for parts. Are cylinders 1 and 4 rod bearings the same part number maybe?
As far as I understand it, each connecting rod has a number stamped on the cap. That number corresponds to what bearing goes in it. But you can't predict the number until you pull it apart and look at it. The set I installed was from DNJ. They didn't have any numbers on their bearings. It was one side fits all.
Great video and info, thanks!
Curious as to bearing selection/size options?
Please let us know.
@@aj9176 The bearings I used were standard size from DNJ. I have a link in the description. They are a pretty well known brand. I've been happy with this set.
Thanks!@@ValleyMobileAutomotive
I took off the oil pan yesterday and there were large chunks. I took off the large tray today, and there is a piston skirt that is broken. The piston caps are loose left to right, but not forward backward... could those bearings cause the pison skirt to crack? Zero codes, 2006, 264k miles. No noise with seafoam. But new oil, and the same sound as yours had! Thoughts?
The connecting rod moving side to side is ok. It's front to back or up and down movement you don't want. The noise could be coming from the piston and not the rods. Typically piston damage comes from heat stress (lack of lubrication) or pre-ignition. If the cylinder walls aren't too damaged you can take the head off and replace the pistons and rings.
Hoping this is similar for the 2010-2015... I cant find a reference video, but bought a prius with a pretty bad rod knock and hoping its this easy to change. Fingers crossed!
Let us know if it is. The engine is different. Those years have the 1.8 in them.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Thanks a ton for replying! Mainly concerned with the upper pan coming off like yours did. Can't seem to find a video online where anybody has done it already.
Can you please post the part numbers for the bearings? Thank you!
Really great video, thank you. I'm endeavoring to do the same to my Prius. Was curious if there have been any issues with the upper oil pan since. I'm nervous about that seal given such a tight fit going back in. Any other problems several months later? Thanks!
No oil leaks or any other issues. It is a tight fit though. I'll have a timing chain video on one of these coming out soon. It's up to you if you want to wait to see what pulling timing cover off looks like.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Awesome, thanks. I appreciate the info!
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Turned out the cylinders had a lot of damage, so I ended up not doing the bearings after all. Almost want to find another one to try the repair anyway...haha
Awesome! Was wondering if could get to all cylinders parts from below. Unfortunately, I found that I have a P0301 code on a friends car I'm considering buying with a hole in the center of the piston. Well, thinking I all isn't bad on the inside, will need to pull the head off as well. Any suggestions to be looking out for and considering before doing? Thanks for sharing, liked, commented and subscribed.
The whole engine can be rebuilt in vehicle. The main bearings and rod bearings you can get from underneath but the pistons come out of the top so the head needs to be removed. But all in all it's not a bad job. I would recommend checking to see what kind of damage if any there is in the cylinder walls and head/ valves.
Great job 👏
Please enlighten us as to the mileage or is this irrelevant as the Prius's oil change were neglected or something?
23:32 Nice.
The manual says there are 4 sizes of rod bearings: 1, 2, 3, and undersized. Is there anyway to know which size to buy before taking the engine apart?
Not that I know of. The number is stamped on the connecting rod. This is the only one I've done so I'm not sure if there's a pattern to these. Some aftermarket sets don't give you a thickness difference, DNJ just sells one size for all four 🤔. If you plan on keeping the car for a long time I would recommend pulling the pan to get the numbers then order them from your local Toyota dealer. While you're waiting for the parts you can pull the timing cover off. The valve cover comes off first then the crank pulley and water pump pulley. Then it should just be a bunch of bolts holding it on.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Thanks a lot. I'll buy the aftermarket set since the thickness difference between OEM's 1,2,3 bearings is small relative to the maximum oil clearance. Maximum bearing thickness difference = 1.5-1.491 = 0.009mm Oil clearance range = 0.06 - 0.016 = 0.044mm I guess the undersized bearing is for people who had to machine the crank. I also found a video where someone pulled the timing cover off to change the head gasket. Your video is much better than that one. It seems to be quite a lot of work to pull the cover. I'll try it your way first. If I can't put the pan back, I'll then try pulling the timing cover.
@@wangfoobar sounds good 👍. Let us know how it goes.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive I took the engine apart following your video. My rod bearings looks ok. I guess my engine knocking/rattling problem comes from elsewhere. It did run low on oil (about 1-2 qt left) and had a lot of silver metal flakes in the oil. That's why I guessed it's the rod bearings. I'll check the crank bearing and cylinders tomorrow. Do you have other suggestions? If I can't fix this problem, I'll probably put everything back together and shop for a junkyard engine.
IN FRAME rebuild - 22R in the truck was same
😊
Id of went 13 ftlbs plus 90 degrees on those torque to yield rod bolts stretching them the same amount as stock sometimes ends badly when it comes to clearances a little loose youll never know it when it comes to torque to yield fasteners though a little tighter than spec is better if your gonna chance reusing them toyota does use really decent hardware though
Yeah torque to yield bolts are generally one time use. And it's risky reusing them. Fortunately these bolts Toyota made reusable 👍
Unless you are a toyota engineer I am going with the repair manual. 😅
@@mr2fas2 I've rebuilt plenty of Yotas also seen the carnage when a torque to yield bolt wasn't stretched enough I said an extra initial 2 ft lbs because he didn't have a stretch gauge trust me if they are a little tight you will never know a little loose and uncle Rodney will be crashing through the side of your block like the Cool Aid man I've been building performance engines and doing standard rebuilds for 25 years I was building 9,000 rpm Lima ford's when I was 14 years old finished top place in the tri state regional competitions for performance automotive machining and rebuilding against over 20 other classes of students know guys from Millets Kammer&Kammer and Ohio George Montgomery's shop on a personal basis my Dad built race cars and engines since the late 60's he was a chassis builder and built a lot of cars these shops built engines for so I met and watched some of the best in the business over years build everything from Omni 4cyl turbos to John Forces prostock Hemis I'm not just some kid giving my two cents