Try mixing your cyano type (A+B / A) with a 5% sollution of gelatine. It will cut your exposure by at least 50% (Light travels trough the emulsion, bounces backfrom the given support and exposes the emulsion from both sides). The gelatine cyano mix will stick to almost any material without any trouble. Also the cyano mux wont react with whatever is in your paper if you dont want to spend money on art papers. But the main advantages are are completly even contrast curve and you can use pigments within your gelatin! Yes…printing CYM with only two layers (shadows are cyano highlights will become your choosen pigment color / gold, silver black are super interesting too ). Be carefull with using clorine for boosting contrast and cyan density cause wet gelatin and clorin might not get along to well. But its not impossible. Toning your print with dye is now equaly easy cause dye and gelatine are very good friends. Got a job offer as a printing teacher today and thought i start practicing on the sofa! Good luck! Regarding pigments mixed with gelatin + plus cyano … high density of pigments of course extendes your exposure.
Wow...Curtis, thank you so much for this video! I'm a beginner and in Photography I in college, and we are doing a cyanotype for our first assignment/project. I loved how you explained everything so clearly, and showed us everything hands-on. Beautiful work! Also your cat is adorable! ☀️💙🐈💙☀️
Thank You for taking the time to give a simple explanation of the cyanotype printing process. I love darkroom printing, but it is a whole process I just do not want to mess with anymore. I want to simplify my whole process with less gear and workflow. One or cameras, one or two film stocks, one or two printing processes, etc. and then experimenting within those parameters. Invariably, it is always about the print for me, something tangible from the intangible, not counting my minds eye. Shooting with pinhole cameras, home developing black and white film with caffenol, and printing with the cyanotype process (or other some other alternative printing process) sounds like my speed: slow and stop, lol. Starting with smaller 120 film negatives will be my first experiments because it is what I have on hand, just cute little Prussian Blue photos. Later, I can print larger negatives like you explained. Btw, your cute cat is spoiled rotten. I have two rotten ones myself. Much obliged.
Thank you so much. This was the best Cyanotype instructional RUclips video I have seen. A question. Do you have any Hydrogen Peroxide recommendations. I was on Amazon and there were various selections available but they seem to have different chemical ratios.
People need to tape the edges of the glass to avoid cutting the crap out of their hands. Also, do you use negative images rather than just a copy on acetate?
Yes. Tape will do fine. I actually sand the edges, with a fine wet sandpaper. I forgot about that technique. Yes I print from a negative. I've been wanting to do that video, so maybe that will be next. Thanks for your comments.
I would have to know your price range. Basically I would look for a printer that uses Photo black a mat black, as well as a grey, that will give you a better range@@gocarrgo
Ok good to know....between $500 -1500 more or less, would I be looking for an inkjet or laser printer? Many thanks for your time and expertise. @@photobrake
olney. Make sure the light sensitive coating is completely dry before laying on the neg. Use a heavy glass pane to ensure complete contact negative to paper. Do not use any clips. Use a water bath to develop and wash the print. Do not forcefully spray it as seen in this video as this can abrade the image.
Beautiful and fascinating! Thankyou for sharing 🙂 How difficult is it to create a negative image from a digital image, before laser printing on the acetate? TIA 🙂
@@photobrake it's easy with silver Iodide emulsion. You can still buy, I think. I don't like digital copies of drawings and photos. But, it's my problem!
Cyanotype is one of the safest printing processes out there. It could be an irritant and I always wear gloves. I always err on the side of caution when it comes to mixing it up. Water is what stops the development. Oxygen can make the blue darker. I enhance that by bathing the print in a solution of hydrogen peroxide solution and water. As far as archival, there are prints from the 1800''s that are still very vibrant although these are in a museum. Cheers
I usually don't have much curl using a heavy weight watercolor paper. If I do get some curl I place it under a masonite board and place some books on it overnight. Thanks for the question.
Funny you should ask...Covid 19 brought about this. I decided to spend the "lockdown" learning something new, yet old...So glad I did. Thanks for your question.
I assume you must be close to my age as that certainly was the accepted practice years ago. I always wondered why women were allowed to wear a hat indoors and men not. Tradition I guess. I guess I've always been a bit of a rebel. I still wish people dressed up more to go to sporting events but it seems like t-shirts and ball caps are the norm. I remember going to a ball game with a sports jacket but those days are long gone. Men don't even wear a tie to church any more. Kinda sad.
New to this. Loved your simple and straight to the point video, with some history at the beginning. Just the video I was looking for. Many thanks
Thanks for you comments
Try mixing your cyano type (A+B / A) with a 5% sollution of gelatine. It will cut your exposure by at least 50%
(Light travels trough the emulsion, bounces backfrom the given support and exposes the emulsion from both sides). The gelatine cyano mix will stick to almost any material without any trouble. Also the cyano mux wont react with whatever is in your paper if you dont want to spend money on art papers. But the main advantages are are completly even contrast curve and you can use pigments within your gelatin! Yes…printing CYM with only two layers (shadows are cyano highlights will become your choosen pigment color / gold, silver black are super interesting too ). Be carefull with using clorine for boosting contrast and cyan density cause wet gelatin and clorin might not get along to well. But its not impossible. Toning your print with dye is now equaly easy cause dye and gelatine are very good friends.
Got a job offer as a printing teacher today and thought i start practicing on the sofa!
Good luck!
Regarding pigments mixed with gelatin + plus cyano … high density of pigments of course extendes your exposure.
Adding gelatin will let you print on glass
You're a genius thank you!
I enjoyed your instructional video, thanks! And, the kitty was a nice added bonus :)
Glad you enjoyed it!
Wow...Curtis, thank you so much for this video! I'm a beginner and in Photography I in college, and we are doing a cyanotype for our first assignment/project. I loved how you explained everything so clearly, and showed us everything hands-on. Beautiful work! Also your cat is adorable! ☀️💙🐈💙☀️
Thanks so much for your comments. Have fun in your class. and my cat thanks you as well.
Great simple to follow video and some really basic valuable information that I've missed from other tutorials - love the blue outfit by the way x
Thanks so much
Great vídeo. Thank you so much
Thank You for taking the time to give a simple explanation of the cyanotype printing process. I love darkroom printing, but it is a whole process I just do not want to mess with anymore. I want to simplify my whole process with less gear and workflow. One or cameras, one or two film stocks, one or two printing processes, etc. and then experimenting within those parameters. Invariably, it is always about the print for me, something tangible from the intangible, not counting my minds eye.
Shooting with pinhole cameras, home developing black and white film with caffenol, and printing with the cyanotype process (or other some other alternative printing process) sounds like my speed: slow and stop, lol. Starting with smaller 120 film negatives will be my first experiments because it is what I have on hand, just cute little Prussian Blue photos. Later, I can print larger negatives like you explained.
Btw, your cute cat is spoiled rotten. I have two rotten ones myself.
Much obliged.
Thanks so much for your kind words. Rotten cats are the best cats. LOL.
Very well organised and clear. Thank you.
Thanks so much for your comment.
You´re such a lovely man, thank you so much for sharing your process. I´m so glad that i found your channel!
Wow. Thanks for that.
Ciao, vorrei chiederti se hai mai usato la cianotipia su vetro ed eventualmente la geletina e l'acido osseico. Grazie tanto e buon lavoro!
According to Wikipedia, a woman, Mary Somerville, originally invented the process but presented her findings to Sir John Herschel!
Hey thanks for that comment. I'll check that out.
Wrong. Somerville invented the ANTHOTYPE process.
Fantastic! I want to try this method. Thanks for the video
Thanks Curtis, glad I found you! Interested in exploring this more…
Hey thanks. I hope you try it out. Loads of fun.
Really cool video! Thanks Curtis!
Thanks Stephen.
thank you, I had dificulty with the time exposure. Now it works!
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching.
Thank you so much. This was the best Cyanotype instructional RUclips video I have seen. A question. Do you have any Hydrogen Peroxide recommendations. I was on Amazon and there were various selections available but they seem to have different chemical ratios.
I just use what I can pick up at Walmart. The ratio really isn't that important.
Hi Curtis! Nice video! Thank you!
My pleasure!
Could you use the images in epixy resin work
I have done just that.
Thank you so much for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
That was a great tutorial. Thanks
Thanks Lisa. I appreciate that.
Thank you, great video and also great print!!
Glad you like it!
People need to tape the edges of the glass to avoid cutting the crap out of their hands. Also, do you use negative images rather than just a copy on acetate?
Yes. Tape will do fine. I actually sand the edges, with a fine wet sandpaper. I forgot about that technique. Yes I print from a negative. I've been wanting to do that video, so maybe that will be next. Thanks for your comments.
Great, what printer do you use for the negative?
At the present time I am using the Canon pro 4000. It can print up to 44" wide.
Yamer on bro. It was interesting.
Ha ha.
Thanks for that.
Wonderful video, what printer do you have? Many thanks!
I have a couple of them. The main printer I use is the Canon Pro 4000. It prints up to 44" wide. Thanks for your question.
thank you for your reply, do you have a recommendation for just black and white printer to use for transparencies to make cyanotypes?@@photobrake
I would have to know your price range. Basically I would look for a printer that uses Photo black a mat black, as well as a grey, that will give you a better range@@gocarrgo
Ok good to know....between $500 -1500 more or less, would I be looking for an inkjet or laser printer? Many thanks for your time and expertise. @@photobrake
Can you print from a positive? Beautiful work!
You can, but the image would then be a negative. Could look pretty cool though.
Thank you for the quick reply@@photobrake
Do the cyanotypes have a course surface texture? The old ammonia process blueprints had that. A company I worked at used blueprints until the 90s.
Not really course. Of course it depends on the type of paper you use. Thanks for the question.
I don’t understand the name of the liquid you put for darking the blue?
hydrogen peroxide
When the correct exposure in sunlight is reached the print will look charcoal grey.
A good tip. Thanks
Painer's tape ??
painters tape.
How do you know your exposure time? Is there any way to tell if the exposure is good while exposing? Or trial and error?
Trial and error mostly. Some folks check the color of the cyanotype but I usually just run a test on a smaller piece of paper.
Cool process! Can you reuse that negative or does the chemical break it down?
The negative is used over and over as it never gets wet.
olney. Make sure the light sensitive coating is completely dry before laying on the neg. Use a heavy glass pane to ensure complete contact negative to paper. Do not use any clips. Use a water bath to develop and wash the print. Do not forcefully spray it as seen in this video as this can abrade the image.
Great video son.
Thanks mom. ha ha ha
Beautiful and fascinating! Thankyou for sharing 🙂 How difficult is it to create a negative image from a digital image, before laser printing on the acetate? TIA 🙂
It's not that difficult. I may do a video about that part of the process.
@@photobrake Still waiting for that video on making a negative from a digital image 🙂
@@RandyPollock I will get that going. I've been traveling and trying to finish up a few videos. Hopefully, I'll be able to get to it next week.
@@photobrake it's easy with silver Iodide emulsion. You can still buy, I think. I don't like digital copies of drawings and photos. But, it's my problem!
Is it ammonium ferri citrate (yellow-brown) and potassium ferricyanide (red), or ferrocyanide (yellow), that's the chemicals that are used?
Truly I just use the premix version. I get it from B&H photo.
what happens if I don't rinse it
It will continue to process. Rinsing it sets the print from development.
How do you preserve your cyanotype print from long term exposure to artificial light or sunlight? Thanks.
It's pretty much archival although I wouldn't hang it in direct sunlight.
Cd you let me know wh teansparent paper you use for the image thx
What size of printer do you have?
Great video! Is this stuff toxic and needing ventilation or okay indoors? And do you need to fix or does water stop development? Do they fade? Thanks!
Cyanotype is one of the safest printing processes out there. It could be an irritant and I always wear gloves. I always err on the side of caution when it comes to mixing it up. Water is what stops the development. Oxygen can make the blue darker. I enhance that by bathing the print in a solution of hydrogen peroxide solution and water. As far as archival, there are prints from the 1800''s that are still very vibrant although these are in a museum.
Cheers
@@photobrake thank you!!!!!
Do you have any tips on getting large prints to dry flat?
I usually don't have much curl using a heavy weight watercolor paper. If I do get some curl I place it under a masonite board and place some books on it overnight. Thanks for the question.
When did you start doing this?
Funny you should ask...Covid 19 brought about this. I decided to spend the "lockdown" learning something new, yet old...So glad I did. Thanks for your question.
anybody ever done this process on canvas? i've been trying to nail it down wondering if there's any tips floating
I am sure it would work. Thanks for the comment
I'm a bit of a frugal photographer... This.
Yep....that's me
You seem to have lost all audio from 5 minutes into the video :(
Thanks for your comments.
Try loading it again. I am not sure what the problem was.The audio seems to have corrected itself.
@@photobrake I'll have a look tomorrow. It's still mute after the 5 minute mark for me at the moment. The re-upload might still be processing.
All good this time.
Nope, what architects used until recently (well... until 30 years ago maybe) is another process.
If you wear a hat, know how to do it. Only women are allowed to keep their hats on in closed rooms.
I assume you must be close to my age as that certainly was the accepted practice years ago. I always wondered why women were allowed to wear a hat indoors and men not. Tradition I guess. I guess I've always been a bit of a rebel. I still wish people dressed up more to go to sporting events but it seems like t-shirts and ball caps are the norm. I remember going to a ball game with a sports jacket but those days are long gone. Men don't even wear a tie to church any more. Kinda sad.
What a waste of time this video is.
Please subscribe to view more "waste of time videos" lol