Thank you for the update! I have a few roses that I want to propagate, but like you, I have most of my loses during the transition. I'm interested to see how yours turn out. Good luck!
These look good! I have been wondering about them. The roots being more dry makes a lot of sense, I think roots have different physiologies when 100% underground vs. "aerial" types of roots, so making the transition to moist soil be a slow one will hopefully work! (I know that with orchids when you switch from "bark" mixes to hydroponic/semi-hydro, they often shed the roots and grow new ones in this new media that has a lot more air space)
I was slightly pruning my roses early December last year before the winter time, I just randomly cut the branches in length of pencils, and stuck them in the ground near the rose bush. I just went out to check today 2/24/21, some got eaten by animals, but few lived!! The buds are bulging, about to "pop" soon, just when I didn't expect it, they made it, through winter! Why is that? But I'm happy the random/ don't care propagation worked, lol
I have watched other videos of people having success rooting just using wood chips that drain properly, or sand, not soil or potting mix of any kind. Best of luck with your adventures.
Hey Jason, I just left a comment on the first video. So even if you add the hormone the plant sends rooting hormones to the lowest point and since they are laying on their sides it's not being concentrated where you want them I believe. I imagine you would get greater callusing if they were standing up.
Hi Jason, great video as usual - straightforward and easy to understand. Could you please advise me when you stick the cuttings do you water them or just leave in the bagged compost. Also, how often should you water from then on. Finally, do you cover the cuttings with a plastic bottle or bag. Thanks.
Hi George - awfully sorry, but I ran into a time crunch when I would have liked to do another follow up this spring. Day job. Ugh. I'll be modifying the method slightly again and repeat this summer - I won't post that one until I have full results to show.
Tom Aaron Great info. Always fun to experiment. Anticipation and learning at the same time. Curious re Winnipeg Parks. Do you find similar results with all of the hardy Parkland and explorer Rugosa varieties? One piece of info might help. Perhaps indicating the general air moisture in the Fraser Valley So viewers can slightly adapt methods to their conditions. I grow my roses in Calgary so desiccation is more an issue then rot. I’m giving a couple extra squirts to maintain moisture levels.
Thanks Tom. Yes we're likely quite a bit more humid than around Calgary. The whole series of Ag Canada roses is pretty diverse in breeding, and I've had varying results. Morden Ruby may be the easiest thing I've ever rooted, while Morden Sunrise is prone to failure and weak early growth. I've done decently with Winnipeg Parks and John Davis.
Thanks for the video, i propagated them two times this year without root hormone in wet newspapers , they were v successful, should i use root hormone when plant them in pots? Can i continue rooting in water? Thanks
Thanks Akram - personally, I'd want to transition to a potting mix rather than grow in water. If they've already begin developing roots, I'd skip the rooting hormone application.
Hey Jason, I've enjoyed all of your videos. And subscribed. You have some great varieties of Roses. Do you ship cuttings by chance? I'm in the states. .
Hi Seth. Nothing so far. I'll look at it again in the future - but I know there's a lot of extra regulatory requirements for me if I export into the US.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm I understand. Tyvm for even getting back to me. I look forward to up incoming videos from you. I used your styrofoam box method you showed for rooting. Worked excellent.
Hi Tim. Sorry, I ran short of time when the cuttings needed to get into pots. A lot like the summer trial, the cuttings callused nicely but I had trouble getting them past the initial rooting stage in soil. Overall, the winter trial still came in above 50% - so as far as hardwood goes, I'm happy to continue this way rather than outside (and I'll keep tweaking the details to see if I can get better at the next stage). I still have way better and quicker results with semi-hardwood so that's where I'll focus my efforts in the meantime.
What about Rose's that are adapted to the tropics, I trying to grow rose cuttings from puerto rico from my grate grandmothers unidentifyable-hybrid tea rose, what should I do for these Rose cuttings ?
Great question. For your situation it's probably more appropriate (and easier) to work with semi-hardwood cuttings. Here's my video on that topic: ruclips.net/video/YDCm4yFWPls/видео.html
If you'd like to try the hardwood method, you can do so, but you'd have to provide temperature control to keep the storage temp below 15 celsius (60F). That's what I did during the summer, and it worked fine.
Thank you for an interesting video! Have you tried this method without the rooting hormone? For us in Sweden it would be super interesting to know if its possible since rooting hormones are illegal here! I would love to see a video where you compare cuttings with and without hormones and the success rate!
Thanks. I'll see if I can make a comparison. It seems (for me) to depend a lot on variety. Some easy-to-root roses don't seem to care if there's hormone or not. It's the reluctant ones where it makes a big difference. I wonder what's the reasoning behind a ban on IBA-based rooting hormones? The science and track-record for safe use is pretty well established.
Hi Paul. Thanks! Good question. I think the main problem with a clear lids and light getting in would be the possibility of algae. Also, sunlight (depending on how much) could make the cuttings warm up/transpire, or even encourage shoot development. So I'd still recommend dark (unless someone wants to test it!)
To follow up with you Jason... I started a group rooting of a bunch of spray roses from the grocery store. They were Ecuadorian roses 'Porcelina'. So out of the bunch, I have about 12 still viable after 2mo. I pulled 2 stems out to check their progress. I live in Zone 9b near Tampa Florida and they have been outside. We have had a few 34* nights, but the crock has been holding on so far... some smaller growths on a few of the sticks... and the 2 sticks I pulled out had swelling at the bottom like it was ready to push roots out. Does that sound right? So my question is, do you think it would benefit if I put a heat mat under it, or would it be too hot if I put a head mat under it? There are no roots right under it,,, and the soil where the sticks are, are a good 4-5" up at least. I would display a photo here If I could.
So is there any advantage to hardwood cuttings as opposed to semi-hardwood? I know the success rate of the semi-hardwood cuttings is higher, but do the hardwood cuttings produce a more vigorous plant or something to offset the cons of that method?
It's just to follow the availability of the source material. In my climate, I'll have semi-hardwood in the right stage for cutting from May or June through maybe September. If I want to keep on propagating into early winter, I move over to hardwood.
@jason Is there any TL;DR on the lessons you’ve learned and modifications to the method that you’ve made since releasing this video? I looked through the other comments and it looks like you day job got in the way of a full follow up video 😢. But this is the best experimental based video on this that I’ve found. I’ve got about 750 hardwood cuttings coming in from UC Davis FPS in a week for my first serious try at heritage rose propagation as a hobby, so I’d love any insights you have as I plan to try this as one of a few different methods. Whenever possible I’m all about learning through other folks mistakes in addition to my own :). Thanks so much if you see this. Also your channel is amazing as is your business; mad props.
Thanks Greg. I did the method twice - both times with a success rate a little higher than 50%. It's a bit of a hassle with materials, etc. in comparison to semi-hardwood cuttings which is my primary method - but I'm sure with a little tweaking, the controlled conditions could be a real advantage. I'd be inclined to try a disinfectant dip or soak, as some of the losses really come down to rot while in the enclosed space. Temperature is another variable: those who speak highly of the "newspaper" method seem to be in warmer climates, and just bag them into a shady spot (but reasonably warm) - I took mine in a cooler part of the year, which may have given botrytis a leg up, and of course would result in slower development. I might return to play around with the method at some point, but let me know how it goes for you.
Hi David. Longer than I'd like! Last time I tried, it took 6-8 weeks from potting (after the whole callusing step) for the successful cuttings to root. Not so bad considering that they're hardwood/fully dormant - but MUCH slower than semi-hardwood/active growth propagation
It just occurred to me after viewing another of your soilless propagation videos, (9 Dec. 2018), that, protecting from bacterial, fungal & viral infection at all stages of propagation must be critical for success. It sure seems that way to me; my cuttings invariably rot, even AFTER they’ve developed what appear to be, sustainable roots! I wondered then, could dedicating a microwave oven to disinfect all potting soil prior to potting-up cuttings, could that be a good idea? I disinfect almost everything in my kitchen using a microwave, from dish towels to cleaning utensils, brushes etc. Ergo, I thought, potting soil could be processed & made habitable for rose cuttings, using microwaves too. Indeed, how about microwaving any soil before potting-up calloused or rooted cutting specimens? My concern is always preventing infection of cuttings since, rot appears to be, the most prevalent cause of propagation failure..for me anyway. I’m so frustrated & tired of my cuttings failing, due to what must be, rotten old ROT! If not microwaving, what method do you recommend as an effective way to insure soil is sterile or at least the very cleanest possible, for ROSE prop success? I’m just so frustrated!
I think you're right to put some emphasis on clean soil and tools, but the other part of the equation is moisture. A good potting soil will be relatively free of pathogens, but rot organisms are always present. Excess moisture allows them to get the upper hand quickly, so it's always a balance.
I'd love to ask you a direct question but I can't figure out how to do so other than this channel Can you air cure a callus on a stem by partially notching it below a bud while the stem still is alive out in the air. What I mean specifically is that you notch partially through one side but leave the other side hole so that the stem stays alive while the calluses forming. I'm curious know if you do a triangle cut or just a slice. I suspect a slice might just heal over so you have to take out a bit to make an air gap. I'm curious if you've ever done anything like this or if it's just two time-consuming for the return. For me I have a rose that never puts up more than two or three stems at a time and I want to reproduce it. And I don't dare take extra material away from it for cuttings. It is probably a variant of a stem rose or looks a lot like Lincoln, standing rose. You have great techniques and I've enjoyed all your videos. I just need one for this specific rose that is reliable and doesn't threaten the main plant too much.
Thanks Brian. What you're proposing is fairly similar to the technique of air layering, which I'll be featuring on the channel sometime soon. The idea is to cut and angled slit in the lower half of the stem, and I've seen people wedge a toothpick or other object into the slit and apply rooting hormone. The area is then wrapped in damp sphagnum. The reason for the sphagnum is that the moisture and dark (combined with the rooting hormone) can help to encourage the callus and roots. Most often in this technique, they go "all the way" to rooting, although I suppose it's also worth considering whether you could proceed only so far as callus and then cut the section and treat it like a cutting.
Good, thanks! The 'Topaz Jewel' cuttings I potted in this vid have now rooted (lightly) and are also beginning to shoot. I went through all the trays last week and culled a couple of unsuccessful varieties, but overall callus development is quite good and minimal losses. I'll update again, of course, but overall I'm much happier doing my winter hardwood cuttings with this method.
Some varieties of trees and shrubs are better suited than others to hardwood cuttings, and you can often find the best candidates with a quick google search. As for the soilless method, it's more a matter of experimentation.
Hey Jason, Thanks for all the informative videos. I was wondering if you have an update on how the overall callouses turned out and the success rate?
Love your update videos Jason. Since I can not seem to be able to propogate roses I enjoy watching you succeed at a very high rate
All your hard work will pay off for US thanks for your time 🐞🐦👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Very exciting. Looking forward to the next update . Thanks for sharing.
I always like your videos. You explain things well and have a good mind for trying different approaches. Thank you for the time and effort.
Thank you for the update! I have a few roses that I want to propagate, but like you, I have most of my loses during the transition. I'm interested to see how yours turn out. Good luck!
These look good! I have been wondering about them. The roots being more dry makes a lot of sense, I think roots have different physiologies when 100% underground vs. "aerial" types of roots, so making the transition to moist soil be a slow one will hopefully work! (I know that with orchids when you switch from "bark" mixes to hydroponic/semi-hydro, they often shed the roots and grow new ones in this new media that has a lot more air space)
Thanks. Good to know. I'm hoping to get this method above 75% total - compared to my semi-hardwood (warm season) cuttings at around 85-90%
Question answered ! Thank you for this excellent video.
I was slightly pruning my roses early December last year before the winter time, I just randomly cut the branches in length of pencils, and stuck them in the ground near the rose bush. I just went out to check today 2/24/21, some got eaten by animals, but few lived!! The buds are bulging, about to "pop" soon, just when I didn't expect it, they made it, through winter! Why is that? But I'm happy the random/ don't care propagation worked, lol
Nicely done!
I have watched other videos of people having success rooting just using wood chips that drain properly, or sand, not soil or potting mix of any kind. Best of luck with your adventures.
Thanks Shelly - I've had good results with a sterile peat/perlite potting mix (like ProMix), but normally, I just use my bark mix.
Interesting method.
Thank you for this video. I'm going to try this with some fig cuttings.
Best of luck Steven
i wish you've put up before & after pictures for the callus areas
Hey Jason, I just left a comment on the first video.
So even if you add the hormone the plant sends rooting hormones to the lowest point and since they are laying on their sides it's not being concentrated where you want them I believe. I imagine you would get greater callusing if they were standing up.
Hi Jason, great video as usual - straightforward and easy to understand. Could you please advise me when you stick the cuttings do you water them or just leave in the bagged compost. Also, how often should you water from then on. Finally, do you cover the cuttings with a plastic bottle or bag. Thanks.
can we get an update? anxiously awaiting to see how they are ALL doing!
Hi George - awfully sorry, but I ran into a time crunch when I would have liked to do another follow up this spring. Day job. Ugh. I'll be modifying the method slightly again and repeat this summer - I won't post that one until I have full results to show.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm look forward to it
Tom Aaron
Great info. Always fun to experiment. Anticipation and learning at the same time.
Curious re Winnipeg Parks. Do you find similar results with all of the hardy Parkland and explorer Rugosa varieties?
One piece of info might help. Perhaps indicating the general air moisture in the Fraser Valley So viewers can slightly adapt methods to their conditions. I grow my roses in Calgary so desiccation is more an issue then rot. I’m giving a couple extra squirts to maintain moisture levels.
Thanks Tom. Yes we're likely quite a bit more humid than around Calgary. The whole series of Ag Canada roses is pretty diverse in breeding, and I've had varying results. Morden Ruby may be the easiest thing I've ever rooted, while Morden Sunrise is prone to failure and weak early growth. I've done decently with Winnipeg Parks and John Davis.
Thanks for the video, i propagated them two times this year without root hormone in wet newspapers , they were v successful, should i use root hormone when plant them in pots? Can i continue rooting in water? Thanks
Thanks Akram - personally, I'd want to transition to a potting mix rather than grow in water. If they've already begin developing roots, I'd skip the rooting hormone application.
Hey Jason, I've enjoyed all of your videos. And subscribed. You have some great varieties of Roses.
Do you ship cuttings by chance? I'm in the states. .
Hi Seth. Nothing so far. I'll look at it again in the future - but I know there's a lot of extra regulatory requirements for me if I export into the US.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm I understand. Tyvm for even getting back to me. I look forward to up incoming videos from you. I used your styrofoam box method you showed for rooting. Worked excellent.
Did I miss the update or how did the remaining cuttings turn out? Would you recommend this method over other hardwood cutting methods?
Hi Tim. Sorry, I ran short of time when the cuttings needed to get into pots. A lot like the summer trial, the cuttings callused nicely but I had trouble getting them past the initial rooting stage in soil. Overall, the winter trial still came in above 50% - so as far as hardwood goes, I'm happy to continue this way rather than outside (and I'll keep tweaking the details to see if I can get better at the next stage). I still have way better and quicker results with semi-hardwood so that's where I'll focus my efforts in the meantime.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thanks for the info, always enjoy your videos!
Nice...
What about Rose's that are adapted to the tropics, I trying to grow rose cuttings from puerto rico from my grate grandmothers unidentifyable-hybrid tea rose, what should I do for these Rose cuttings ?
Great question. For your situation it's probably more appropriate (and easier) to work with semi-hardwood cuttings. Here's my video on that topic: ruclips.net/video/YDCm4yFWPls/видео.html
If you'd like to try the hardwood method, you can do so, but you'd have to provide temperature control to keep the storage temp below 15 celsius (60F). That's what I did during the summer, and it worked fine.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm thank you so much 😄 I'll try to do that right away 👍🏼
I bet that vertically storing them (right way up) would give better results.
Might be worth a try!
Thank you for an interesting video! Have you tried this method without the rooting hormone? For us in Sweden it would be super interesting to know if its possible since rooting hormones are illegal here! I would love to see a video where you compare cuttings with and without hormones and the success rate!
Thanks. I'll see if I can make a comparison. It seems (for me) to depend a lot on variety. Some easy-to-root roses don't seem to care if there's hormone or not. It's the reluctant ones where it makes a big difference. I wonder what's the reasoning behind a ban on IBA-based rooting hormones? The science and track-record for safe use is pretty well established.
Do the cuttings need to be in the dark ? or would clear tubs work as well? Thanks !! great videos
Hi Paul. Thanks! Good question. I think the main problem with a clear lids and light getting in would be the possibility of algae. Also, sunlight (depending on how much) could make the cuttings warm up/transpire, or even encourage shoot development. So I'd still recommend dark (unless someone wants to test it!)
Fraser Valley Rose Farm good points, I’ll stick to darkness ! Lol
Have you posted an update on these than I am overlooking?
When you transfer your cuttings to the potting soil, how often do you water them?
Not much at all. It's not proper watering - more of a misting to keep the cuttings from drying out. The soil is just barely moist.
To follow up with you Jason... I started a group rooting of a bunch of spray roses from the grocery store. They were Ecuadorian roses 'Porcelina'. So out of the bunch, I have about 12 still viable after 2mo. I pulled 2 stems out to check their progress. I live in Zone 9b near Tampa Florida and they have been outside. We have had a few 34* nights, but the crock has been holding on so far... some smaller growths on a few of the sticks... and the 2 sticks I pulled out had swelling at the bottom like it was ready to push roots out. Does that sound right?
So my question is, do you think it would benefit if I put a heat mat under it, or would it be too hot if I put a head mat under it? There are no roots right under it,,, and the soil where the sticks are, are a good 4-5" up at least. I would display a photo here If I could.
I'd probably keep it cool and slow at this point.
So is there any advantage to hardwood cuttings as opposed to semi-hardwood? I know the success rate of the semi-hardwood cuttings is higher, but do the hardwood cuttings produce a more vigorous plant or something to offset the cons of that method?
It's just to follow the availability of the source material. In my climate, I'll have semi-hardwood in the right stage for cutting from May or June through maybe September. If I want to keep on propagating into early winter, I move over to hardwood.
@jason Is there any TL;DR on the lessons you’ve learned and modifications to the method that you’ve made since releasing this video? I looked through the other comments and it looks like you day job got in the way of a full follow up video 😢. But this is the best experimental based video on this that I’ve found. I’ve got about 750 hardwood cuttings coming in from UC Davis FPS in a week for my first serious try at heritage rose propagation as a hobby, so I’d love any insights you have as I plan to try this as one of a few different methods. Whenever possible I’m all about learning through other folks mistakes in addition to my own :). Thanks so much if you see this. Also your channel is amazing as is your business; mad props.
Thanks Greg. I did the method twice - both times with a success rate a little higher than 50%. It's a bit of a hassle with materials, etc. in comparison to semi-hardwood cuttings which is my primary method - but I'm sure with a little tweaking, the controlled conditions could be a real advantage. I'd be inclined to try a disinfectant dip or soak, as some of the losses really come down to rot while in the enclosed space. Temperature is another variable: those who speak highly of the "newspaper" method seem to be in warmer climates, and just bag them into a shady spot (but reasonably warm) - I took mine in a cooler part of the year, which may have given botrytis a leg up, and of course would result in slower development. I might return to play around with the method at some point, but let me know how it goes for you.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you for the tips (and for responding)! I’ll let you know how it goes.
How long after they are potted will they take root?
Hi David. Longer than I'd like! Last time I tried, it took 6-8 weeks from potting (after the whole callusing step) for the successful cuttings to root. Not so bad considering that they're hardwood/fully dormant - but MUCH slower than semi-hardwood/active growth propagation
It just occurred to me after viewing another of your soilless propagation videos, (9 Dec. 2018), that, protecting from bacterial, fungal & viral infection at all stages of propagation must be critical for success. It sure seems that way to me; my cuttings invariably rot, even AFTER they’ve developed what appear to be, sustainable roots!
I wondered then, could dedicating a microwave oven to disinfect all potting soil prior to potting-up cuttings, could that be a good idea?
I disinfect almost everything in my kitchen using a microwave, from dish towels to cleaning utensils, brushes etc.
Ergo, I thought, potting soil could be processed & made habitable for rose cuttings, using microwaves too.
Indeed, how about microwaving any soil before potting-up calloused or rooted cutting specimens?
My concern is always preventing infection of cuttings since, rot appears to be, the most prevalent cause of propagation failure..for me anyway.
I’m so frustrated & tired of my cuttings failing, due to what must be, rotten old ROT!
If not microwaving, what method do you recommend as an effective way to insure soil is sterile or at least the very cleanest possible, for ROSE prop success? I’m just so frustrated!
I think you're right to put some emphasis on clean soil and tools, but the other part of the equation is moisture. A good potting soil will be relatively free of pathogens, but rot organisms are always present. Excess moisture allows them to get the upper hand quickly, so it's always a balance.
mine have sprouted leaves before getting roots is there anything I can do
Cross your fingers and hope the roots catch up!
I'd love to ask you a direct question but I can't figure out how to do so other than this channel
Can you air cure a callus on a stem by partially notching it below a bud while the stem still is alive out in the air. What I mean specifically is that you notch partially through one side but leave the other side hole so that the stem stays alive while the calluses forming. I'm curious know if you do a triangle cut or just a slice. I suspect a slice might just heal over so you have to take out a bit to make an air gap. I'm curious if you've ever done anything like this or if it's just two time-consuming for the return. For me I have a rose that never puts up more than two or three stems at a time and I want to reproduce it. And I don't dare take extra material away from it for cuttings. It is probably a variant of a stem rose or looks a lot like Lincoln, standing rose.
You have great techniques and I've enjoyed all your videos. I just need one for this specific rose that is reliable and doesn't threaten the main plant too much.
Thanks Brian. What you're proposing is fairly similar to the technique of air layering, which I'll be featuring on the channel sometime soon. The idea is to cut and angled slit in the lower half of the stem, and I've seen people wedge a toothpick or other object into the slit and apply rooting hormone. The area is then wrapped in damp sphagnum. The reason for the sphagnum is that the moisture and dark (combined with the rooting hormone) can help to encourage the callus and roots. Most often in this technique, they go "all the way" to rooting, although I suppose it's also worth considering whether you could proceed only so far as callus and then cut the section and treat it like a cutting.
How is this method coming along?
Good, thanks! The 'Topaz Jewel' cuttings I potted in this vid have now rooted (lightly) and are also beginning to shoot. I went through all the trays last week and culled a couple of unsuccessful varieties, but overall callus development is quite good and minimal losses. I'll update again, of course, but overall I'm much happier doing my winter hardwood cuttings with this method.
Can this method work with other plants?
Some varieties of trees and shrubs are better suited than others to hardwood cuttings, and you can often find the best candidates with a quick google search. As for the soilless method, it's more a matter of experimentation.
Why the callousing? Why not just root right away?
That's like asking "Why get pregnant? Why not just have a baby right away?". One is a developmental step towards the other.
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