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Felling an Oak Tree - NPTC CS32 Chainsaw Course
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- Опубликовано: 20 ноя 2011
- peplers.blogspot.com/2011/11/c... An example of what goes on on the NPTC CS32 course. This is my first tree on the course, a smallish oak. We're felling trees from 15-30" diameter. On day one, you generally take turns felling a tree, while the rest of the class watches and critiques your work, so you learn from each other. This one was a forward-leaning tree, so I used a bore cut and a bit of retaining wood. Using a cut like this reduces the chance of the tree splitting and doing a 'barber chair'. Note that this video is not intended for instruction purposes! The course was run by David Rossney of Esus Forestry www.esusforestry.co.uk
Way to stay polite in your comment responses Mike. Not always easy to do.
We were limited to a 15" bar for the course, to force you to do things the hard way to prove you could. I certainly have a longer bar for when I need it, but the skills for cutting from both sides have already come in useful when I visited my sister and took the saw along to fell a tree, only to find it was bigger than I was expecting!
Hey Mike, I've just come across your video. Look mate don't worry about most of these comment's. I'm a logger myself and have worked in Ireland the U.K and now New Zealand. Everybody has to start somewhere and learn the proper safe methods and at least those who know anything about felling knows we all started somewhere and weren't born with saw's in our hands.
Good video and you'll only get better and are probably a master by now.
Thanks Bill! :-)
Mike Pepler So this method keeps your chain from getting pinched without the use of felling wedges. Do they reco it for larger trees?
John RossStar
Actually, this is for forward leaning trees, that's why it fell without the need for wedges. Would work fine on a larger tree. I've got some other videos using wedges in my CS32 playlist: ruclips.net/p/PL8esHC48hRiZ_7eQBqz2Po_fQD_QQ3aM0
Don't let all the arm chair lumber jacks get you down. If this was your first felling, you did great. Keep on felling!
Thanks for posting. I'm on this course at the end of the month so just looking at video's to prepare myself.
Great, hope it goes well! 🙂
It's Feb 2022 and I found this video. Nice short bar there I see for training. Makes you learn for when the tree is thicker than your bar. Nice one.
Yeah, we had to use 15" bar maximum, forces you to cut from both sides.
Thanks! :-) Yeah, we had to demonstrate we knew the full process for felling the tree for the course. The saw is a 346xp, bought in 2007 and still running well. It's actually just a 13" bar, with a full chisel Oregon chain. I use a short bar on it as mostly I'm cutting coppice, so the trees are smaller, and it saves weight, money and fuel. I've got other saws with longer bars when they're needed.
Nicely done!! Open falls are a great way to hone in your skills and try different methods for safe and effective falling!! Gotta love RUclips...everyone's the expert and critiques the hell out of everything!! Btw- greetings from the northwest (US)...not many oaks up here but certainly our fair share of Doug firs! A good tree will heat you 3 times!! Keep looking up!! Cheers-
Thanks :-)
Thanks for posting the video, very helpful.
Nice job. I have the same problem as you I can rarely keep the directional cut level. Am learning also.
Ive been falling trees like this since i watched this tip
You guys fondled this tree forever.
😂
nice, enjoyed watching this and your other tree videos.
Cheers, it was my first go on an oak, and first go cutting from both sides of the tree.
very good friend, you are an expert at cutting success to you
I fell trees like that everyday for 30 yrs. I used a 16 inch bar on trees 30 to 36", never used a bore cut method. I like to have full control of the tree and watching this method you have no control of the tree. When making the bore, if you leave a little more hinge wood on the left side, the tree will pull to the left when you cut the back strap. And there isn't a darn thing to do, just watch it fall the wrong way. If theres more hinge wood left on the right hand side, it will pull to the right.
I was known for my superb directional timber falling and i took pride in it. My father started teaching me back in 1955 when i was seven yrs old.
+Duane Nelson agree that a bore cut wasn't strictly necessary, but while on the course you have to do several of each type of cut to demonstrate you've learned them. I've tried the idea you suggest with varying the hinge thickness, it certainly works, though it sounds like you've had a lot more practice at directional felling than me! :-)
its called a holding cut..and its a demo...
nice job man. that´s the right way to do it!
great video, added to our arborist training playlist
+Trees woods and forests - arboriculture (from: London Tree Surgeons Group) thanks, glad you liked it!
Yeah, I probably was above the bar at times. With the chain brake though, on CS31 we were told to have it on whenever moving, with the exception being moving a long a tree while snedding with the the bar on the other side of the trunk. But on a more advanced course, we were told that as we were more experienced now, we could use our judgement on when the brake really needed applying, as on a hazard-free surface with you finger off the throttle, there's not much risk. As you say, inconsistent!
It is, but that makes the saw feel more powerful as it's driving less chain. Less risk of kickbacks too, and keeps it light.
The whole point is learning what to do when you come across a tree that's bigger than your saw. I have a bigger saw and bar that would easily reach across this tree, but that would have beenmissing the point of the exercise.
Actually a 13" in this case, I had two saws with me. We deliberately had to work from both sides, as that's what you get examined on. In this case I left the buttresses to help form the hinge.
No idea of the end use in this case - we were just felling the trees for our course and exam, didn't know what the landowner planned to do with them in the end. A few years ago we had some oak thinned by a contractor in our own bit of woodland, and they were used to rebuild an old barn, with the offcuts for firewood.
Well that was kind of the idea - it was a training course, so we were meant to be talking about what we were doing as we went along...
I am intrigued by the different techniques European fellers us vs Americans. it seems you guys have a more controlled way of dropping trees.
Probably because of our obsession with health and safety! ;-)
Kimball Cody we use different type cuts over here too, plunge back cuts like that are really for dead standing. the core might be rotten and u can't see it. if u do a edge on back cut it might barber chair on ya. wouldn't be fun.
u can do a plunge cut to use the stronger outside of trunk if u think it might be empty core or termite infested. plunge cuts are little more dangerous than edge on back cuts . u dont have as much control . use wedges whenever u can. it helps to have a shallower face cut too.
That's a 346xp with a 13" bar, some of the other videos are a 570 with a 15" bar. It's max 15" bar length for the course.
Well, it was the first one I cut down, and I had to talk through what I was doing, as it was a training course.
You had your head over the bar a lot, my lecturer would go crazy over that, also moving around without the chain brake applied. There seems to be little consistancy with these CS units. Just a bloody money spinner if you ask me.
Damn nice bore cut :)
so the gob cut is kind of like a open mouth interesting!
Actually, it's only a 13" bar in this video. I used another saw with a 15" bar for some of the other videos. We were subject to a 15" bar limit, as you correctly state.
Not sure why you think a felling bar would be needed? We used a bar for CS31, and I use a bar regularly in coppicing, but many of these oak trees were way too heavy to move with a bar. If you watch my other CS32 videos, you'll see we used wedges and a hammer for them. But the tree in this video was forward-leaning, so no need.
Mike Pepler cazzo
I'm hoping to do my course this year and the thing I don't like is the presence pressure. On my own I can take anything safely down but in a group and I become a simpleton with a death machine. Not looking forward to it.
It's not as bad as you might think, everyone on the course will be a bit nervous about felling bigger trees, and you'll all critique each other's work. Just go slow and steady, it's better to be careful than quick when trying new stuff with big trees.
Do you ever use the humboldt undercut there? Can be down on hardwoods and gives you much more directional control. Also, although the short bar was a requirement for the course, when out in the woods a long bar is much safer against kickbacks. You will also be able to steer the tree better using a conventional back cut.
Not sure I know the humboldt cut? Maybe I know it by another name?
But also, I didn't see it as a money-spinner myself, as I started doing the CS units with no experience at all, and nobody around I could learn from informally, so they did teach me a lot.
Thanks :-) I do delete some occasionally if they are rude or use bad language...
Gotta love The Rozza!!!
Did you train with him too?
Don't know where this is at if forestry makes you take this but, we don't use the all the tools, we just cut timber with the saw, looks complicated and time consuming.
It's what's required to pass the exam. You don't legally need to do this, but if you want to get insurance while you're working, then you need it.
that was not what I was expecting, but thanks! Nobody got killed at least!
Thanks! :-)
Thanks :-)
On some trees by cutting out the buttresses make it easier that's what I found out on my cs31 course had a refresher course the other week so learning all the time. So I take it your 15" bar was too small for that tree hence the boring in and around the tree base?
For CS32 you're limited to 15" bar to force you to work from both sides of the tree - to prove you can do it.
In Maine we do it a little simpler,..make a hinge, make a back cut, watch the frig out, limb the tree. Simple as that! However, I realize this was a training course so nice job. What model Husqvarna is that? 14 or 16 inch on there? looked like a 16 with I am guessing semi-chisel
570, with a 15" full chisel.
And this was the first oak tree I felled...
its definetly not easy the rules here health and safetly make things harder than they could be. i like being able to use a blade that can do one cut on one side it saves time and removes the issue of pairing up the cuts like you had shown on the back cuts. this may have been on purpose for the sake of the video.
+Phil Murphy To pass the course exam you have to be able to cut from both sides and make the cuts meet up. The reasoning is that whatever saw you have you could always encounter a tree the bar isn't long enough for.
+Mike Pepler yes thats right as they say 12 and 12 is 24.
+Mike Pepler
I like practicing with smaller bars on large trees just for this reason.. and it puts the hp to the wood, especially with a larger powerhead...different ways the bore cut can be used as well, whether quarter cutting, leaving a backstop, or gutting the core wood from the center of the face.. is always fun and sharpens your skill
+Adam A that's another good point, a short bar wastes less power!
Nice
Don't get me wrong you did very well, I myself am not very experienced. I criticize the units because a lad on my CS31 blatantly should have failed, poor use of chainbrake and couldn't answer questions fully but was passed anyway, I lost all faith in them after that.
@hypnolobster Thanks :-)
Can we call this a Hinge and Bore cut when your CS is too short?
Jessie Wright I guess so, though I've not heard that name before. We were required to use chainsaws that could not reach right across the tree, to force us to learn to work from both sides accurately.
Little different to how I was taught quite recently I guess techniques can change. As for having your head over the bar and almost sitting in front of your gob cut. If u wish to remain safe get out of those habits. Otherwise nicely done. Safety first then speed comes with experience/2nd nature to safety. Sod the haters
fair dos mate
I hope they plant another tree for the one they fell
Probably, but not literally in the same space. These oaks were a crop, they just take a rather long time to reach harvest. So more oaks are planted, to be harvested some time next century perhaps.
Ok I see, would make sense to have proper training to be able to carry insurance, thanks for the quick reply btw!
It may have needed sharpening...
nice
notch back cut on to the next. whole lot of cutting and fiddling around that just doesn't need to be done
True, but remember this was a training course, so the idea here was to use an easy tree to practice techniques needed on a more difficult one.
saw dont look like its cutting that great !!
Might have been a bit blunt by that point in the day.
that is a tiny bar for that saw lol. nice work though
15" limit on the bar for the course, to force you to prove you can cut from both sides of the tree and make the cuts meet up.
Nice chainsaw. Do they make those in men's sizes too?
It *is* my smallest chainsaw! :-) I normally use it for coppicing, but for the course we were required to use a chainsaw with a bar shorter than the diameter of the tree, in order to practice the techniques of cutting from both sides. I guess the reasoning is that there's always a chance you'll have to fell a tree that's wider than your longest chainsaw bar, unless you have a real monster one. The 346xp is a nice little saw though, very light and good power to weight ratio - you can throw it around all day without getting tired.
"That's a 346xp with a 13" bar, some of the other videos are a 570 with a 15" bar. It's max 15" bar length for the course." Jeez, you POMS gotta choke with rules, no wonder ya cant play cricket!
😂
this saw is called "tree torture saw" imo
😂
A bore and sweep would of been better
No choice, it was on a training course, and this was the cut I had to practice at this point.
I hate kneeling when I fell, rather crouch low, enables quick escape, also you head was a bit close but I`m nit picking, good job otherwise.
Yeah, I got told off by the instructor for kneeling when I was done!
very simple tree to cut, so don't make it more difficult than it is...
Yes, a very simple one - but that was the idea, so we could practice cuts for more complicated trees on one where it doesn't matter.
hope I can see the complicated ones, once...
Oldfrisian
I'll try and video the next one... :-)
One thing i will say is thats too big for a cs 32 with a cs 32 your only allowed to cut a maximum of 15 inches also you should of finished with a felling bar im suprised you passed. your instructor was poor
That’s CS31.
Yep, where CS32 it's still 15“ bar, but you cut from both sides, so up to 30" diameter.
there are sawmen ,then there are men with saws
That was painful to watch
+Dave McMillan first oak I'd ever felled, and with 4 people watching, including the instructor...
No, i don't think it was- as the guy said, he has an audience, and is on video? Another armchair expert, who probably hasn't even handled a saw before
not impressed. bad way to teach people to cut... you cut that completely wrong
+Cody Schulz How would you have cut it?
+Mike Pepler everything up to your back cuts...
+Mike Pepler what would you have done if you got your saw pinched...
+Cody Schulz It was leaning forwards, so there was no chance of the tree sitting back and pinching the saw. That might not be obvious in the video though, as it's too close to see the lean on the tree.
+Mike Pepler alright I guess whatever works. sorry I jumped on the video