Thank you for recording this and making it available. I just completed the job successfully. Your calm voice made the nerve wracking process easier for sure!!
Thanks to your great modification instructions I was able to modify a 700D which I needed modified for my bachelor thesis. I`m using it to take pictures of solarpanels and see its electroluminescence.
Gary this is a very detailed and precise video, and it went easily for me, a 40 year electronics technician, but...good lord, I hope noone watches this and thinks they can do it unless they are very experienced with micro sized electronics...there are so many places one can ruin something, or break a part, mix up screws etc etc, Id suggest to anyone but the most capable electronics people to contact a local camera shop, spend a little money and have them do it,or just buy one astromodded. good luck however you go, the mod will really make a huge difference in your AP effort.
I agree that it is extremely delicate but an electronics background is not what is required. You don't solder or do any troubleshooting. What is required however is extreme finesse. Also a mechanical background is helpful and I mean almost machinist level if you strip a screw. I stripped the head of the screw directly under the lens on the front cover. I saw someone else had also stripped the same one. They were extremely tight and the little phillips driver rounded it out in the loosen direction. Phillips are actually designed to "cam out" so it stripped per design! I saw someone else had the same screw strip and it sounded like they were dead in the water. I drilled out the head until all that was left of the head was a thin ring which rode up my small drill bit. I was able to slip the front cover over the stud that was left and replaced it with a screw from a screw kit. When I turned the camera on, everything works except for the info screen. I'm guessing I will find I didn't fully engage a ribbon or connector somewhere. I was able to take several photos however and the camera works, just need to figure out what isn't quite plugged in. Oh, the video for some reason is missing the section where you install the circuit board and all the ribbons. I was following it and next thing I knew I was instructed to install the body cover and the board was still in front of me. The sad thing is I discovered Gary passed away a few years ago which explains why there are no answers to peoples questions. I wish I could have know Gary, he was a very good teacher.
Update: Its a few minutes later and it is working 100%. The issue with the dead LCD screen was a ribbon cable on the top of the board that is under the plug in ribbon. After close inspection, I noticed it was not inserted all the way. You would have thought it would have been the connector coming from the LCD panel but it wasn't. If you are all thumbs don't even consider this project.
Hi Joe, Congratulations on a successful T4i Mod! You don't need the piezzo element. With it not installed you can't do auto cleanings or use the dust delete data feature. You could attach it on the back side of the sensor if you cut the glass smaller using a scribe and kept the white piezo element intact. Consider joining my Yahoo support group DSLRmodifications if you are not already a member. Gary
You were so clear and careful. It is crucial to mention about the final filter assembly details, Astronomick vs Baader type, especially for a full spectrum. Thanks a lot. Will try it on my old EOS 350D.
I've just followed your instructions on my 700D (except I only removed the IR cut filter, planning on just using this with my refractor and a 2 inch UV filter) and when I try to use live view or take a photo it says 'shooting not possible due to an error'. Is this normal or have I done something wrong? Will the camera still shoot using APT? It auto focuses in the viewfinder well
@@LE018_07 hi! Do you have any sheet or instructions for the 850D? I have the same model and I want to add a astronomik glass with the lpf1. Are this video helpful?
@@joaomoreiraastrophotographer yes, the sensor is fitted whit there bolts, with a pen mark each position be careful don't mix it the bolts and then put each one in the same place and you'll be ready to go, hope works for you too
Fantastic video. It is tough to provide good viewing on a demo like this. Helped me out a lot, especially measuring the height of the sensor. Thanks for taking time to do this Gary!
Hi Ray, No, the rubber gasket was not left out. It was never removed from the frame. The reason for the 1/12th adjustment to the sensor position for the Full Spectrum modification is because the thickness of the clear glass is not the same thickness as the sum of the thicknesses of the the two removed filters. Gary
Thanks for posting such a detailed video! Together with your written instructions they are perfect for modding. My Baader BCF mod is a success! Keep up the great work for the community
Holy Moley!....Incredible work Gary....To say that you pretty handy, would be a understatement, WOW! Just found your site and look forward to reviewing your other videos. Thanks for posting and your time is appreciated. Best Regards
Hi Gary, great video, it was the final push to convert my 600d (European model) to infrared only. I have two comments to your methodology: a) it's better to false to the close focus side = more screwed sensor screws than to the infinity side because it's preferable to loose the extreme close focus distance than the infinity focus, b) In case somebody removes completely both filters, the camera then get's stuck in a sensor cleaning cycle which of course can not be finished because the whole element is missing. The solution for this is to disable automatic cleaning when turning on and off PRIOR of the modification. After the modification it's impossible to enter the menu because the camera is trying t finish cleaning first! And it does it for several minutes believe me! I removed completely both filters because I would like to use the camera to take video of roosting bat's at night using infrared light torches. The only light I have to deal with is the infrared light of my torch and I need as much light is possible to get the video. I did the mod everything works fine, I focus with live view the colors even with daylight are interesting except a major problem: the camera flashes no card!!! The problem is that the card and card board are not touched at this mod and I can't see how they can be damaged with the procedure. The camera was working before so something must have been screwed up but what? I have the alternative solution to leave it as it is and use EOS utility for photo shooting and an Atomos recorder fro video but as you can understand stand alone operation would have been preferable. Any ideas about this problem? Any help would great, thank you again, Yiannis.
@@ghonis Hello Gary thank you very much fr your reply. In the meanwhile I took apart again the main board (it took me less than 15 minutes compared to the 2 hours of the initial mod I did this morning!) The good news is that now the card works!! so maybe one of the cables wasn't connected back properly and it was the cable coming from the card reader. Thank you again great mod.
My plan is to remove lpf2 but leave lpf1 in place to protect the sensor. I use a newt so I'm hoping to not have star bloat. I will add a 2" IR filter if I do see this. I don't need to have autofocus work, but shouldn't it be possible to adjust the screw height to compensate? Like how you mark the screws to adjust for the difference in glass thickness? I would think that instead of inward adjustment that an outward is needed? Perhaps there is not enough play to compensate? I was hoping that by marking the screws that a half turn outward might help with focus? Thanks for all this info! Can't imagine trying this without all this detail. Kevin
Just finished nodding my canon 600D using your walkthrough on your website, I didn’t how ever replace the IR cut filter with anything I just have a the low pass filter 1, I’m ordering a clip in IR/UV filter next next week from the USA, in Australia there isn’t anything like that around sadly! Thanks for all the info!
Hi, I have done astromodification to my canon 600D (only LP2 removed, not replaced with any). The order in the sensor unit I saw was, LP1 and then LP2, and then CMOS Sensor. LP2 was attached to the system with a black plastic frame (glued on to the frame). I had removed this LP2 (it got broken while removing), not replaced with any filter and kept the empty plastic frame as it is and then LP1 but after power up my camera got stuck at sensor cleaning, could not do any operation. Can you tell me what went wrong and how to correct it ? Thanks in advance
@@Dan_13-w1p hi. It's because it is not able to read memory card. When you power up sensor cleaning happens and then goes to reading memory card. As it's failing to read memory card it is stuck at memory card. I made sensor cleaning option disabled (in menu settings). So it's working now. But it's not reading memory card. I had done something wrong while doing modification which made this otherwise it's all fine now. So I am taking photos without memory card by connecting it to laptop and using Canon EOS utility SW. One more thing, as it is getting stuck at sensor cleaning , you can't even open menu options also. For that what I did was I de-assembled and assembled again and after I set date and time, immediately I went to Menu and dissabled "sensor cleaning while power up".
Hi Scott, For a Full Spectrum modification you should see the transmission curve for the MC Clear Glass on the Astronomik web site. With the clear glass a limiting factor is also the wavelength response of the CMOS imaging sensor. Varying reports are that at the low UV end, the cutoff is either 200nm, 305nm or 380nm. At the high infrared end the cutoff is around 1000nm. With a Baader modification, UV is blocked and Infrared is also blocked above 700nm.
I'm about to do this to my T3i but was wondering about the screw sheet you mentioned. I always have issues keeping track of screws. can you explain to track them? thanks
Thank you for the instructions! Can I just remove the IR filter without replacing it with any other filter? I'm using it only for Celestron Newtonian AVX. Will I be able to focus? Will I be able to use focal reducer and/or a coma corrector? If I can't will using a clip-in filter work and solve the problems? What are the downsides of not replacing the filter? Thanks in advance!
Hi Anthony, The front filter (LPF#1) does not fully block IR and can result in star bloat. The problem with having only the front filter (LPF#1) in place is that it is a weak IR blocker and does not block all infrared light. If you planned to image with a reflector telescope only at prime, that would be okay. Once you add a focal reducer, corrector or barlow to the imaging train, you would need to include a UV/IR cut filter in the imaging train to avoid star bloat. If you plan to image with a refractor telescope, you would also need to add a UV/IR cut filter in the imaging train. If all you did is to remove the blue IR cut filter (LPF#2) and left the front filter in place (LPF#1) without installing a replacement filter, you will get some star bloat when imaging with lens systems because LPF#1 is a weak IR blocker. See: ruclips.net/video/r9-8lB1e_20/видео.html Star bloat will be an issue if you are imaging with lens type systems like refractor telescopes, camera lenses or using barlows or focal reducers. Gary
Great tutorial Gary thank you. I have a question if you don't mind? Would I be right in assuming the same proceedure, is applicable for the T3 i? Thanks in advance.
5 лет назад
Very instructive video, thanks. Should I replace IR filter with a clear glass one? May I not leave empty the black filter frame?
Hi Gary, thank you so much for your great tutorial. I managed to modify my Canon 500D with excellent results! One question though, I did not replace the filter removed with any Baader or Astronomik Clear Glass. I'm using the DSLR with a newtonian telescope and I already watched your video regarding IR blocking capabilities of the LPF front filter alone. Do you think I will have bloated stars with my Newtonian or any issues due to IR not being cut properly? I do have an Astronomik CLS-CCD filter but I'm planning on shooting M78 and I'm worried the filter might do more harm than good to the reflection nebula. So do you think I could get away by not using the CLS-CCD without introducing any IR artifacts to my image? (I am using a GSO coma corrector btw) Cheers!
Thanks for your tutorial Gary. Hope you still follow this thread! Can this guide be used directly for the 550D? Curious to know what happens to the piezzo electric dust shaker? Does it get ruined?
sorry ... your video provided a solution ... but I already opened my sensor and I forgot to measure the original ... so do you have a solution for the original size for the 600d canon
Hi Zikri, Glad to hear you were able to repair your 650D camera. Detailed instructions for the 650D & 700D cameras are here: GaryHonis.com/650Dmod/650Dreinstallsteps1.html
Dang, why don't all cameras come like this with removable filters to use as needed. Also why not have models with no bayer color either so you can do true mono for those few that would like that. Im going to do this for my T3i.
This is great Gary, Can I ask a question about the process? You added a further piece of glass after you took out the IR/cut filter. Do you need to add this extra glass? I want to follow your instructions to do the astro mod but without the extra glass what effect will it have. I am not looking to use this camera for regular photography again only astro. Regards
Really enjoyed your video, I've done a few compact camera repairs which I had to totally dismantle and reassemble to get at lens mechanism. It is a daunting experience at first. I would suggest anyone trying this to buy a few cheap old cameras of ebay to pratcice on, have good lighting, dust free workshop, very clean table and floor so if you drop something you stand a chance of finding it. Best to practice on cheap compact cameras, some of them have have easy removable IF filters, just take it out and rebuild.
Hi Seyed, If you remove both filters, the camera will be unable to reach focus on most camera lenses at infinity. The Autofocus function will also be disabled. If you plan to image with a telescope, you can instead use the telescope focuser to reach focus using the camera's liveview display. If your telescope imaging system uses any lens elements you would need to add a UV/IR filter somewhere in the imaging train. The imaging sensor itself would be exposed to dust and debris if you do not replace the two original filters. Another reason for using a multi-coated optically polished clear glass for full spectrum modifications is because it acts as an optical window to protect the CMOS imaging chip. The Astronomik MC Clear Glass is very durable and scratch resistant. I have seen cameras with dirty front filters that are not only dusty but have difficult to remove grime (tree sap is one suspect). Even worse, there have been reports on my support group of the front filter becoming pitted. I have replaced front filters that have been badly scratched by users during their attempts at cleaning. A front filter is much less expensive to replace than a CMOS imaging sensor assembly. Then again, for a Full Spectrum mod with no clear glass installed, if your clip-in type filter is kept inside the camera body at all times, it provides good protection of the imaging chip. Gary
Great instruction, just finished my sucessvol eos600D mod, based on this tutorial and the written one on the site. It's absolutely doable if you take the time. One suggestion is to point out that you have to free all ribboncables before installing the sensor. the bottom ones (A and B) were trappend behnd the sensor because i was not paying attention. So i had to loosen the sensor again to free them.
I came here to learn how to do the astro-mod to a used T2i I purchased a few weeks ago. 15 minutes in and nope nope nope nope nope. I'm not doing that. I'd never get the camera back together again. Great video though. I applaud you meticulous attention to detail.
Hi, do you maybe know where the temperature sensor of a canon eos is usually physically located, on which pcb plate part, directly behind the sensor or further away on the main board plate? (The one which reads temp and writes it to the exif header)
Hi, i am looking to clean my directional key pad on my camera, and i was wondering that once you got the back popped off if it was possible to detach the keys so that i could get them to quit sticking and being hard to press? thank you
+Julia Tenney Hi Julia, When I take the camera apart for a modification, I don't do anything with the camera back. That is I don't disassemble it down to the directional keypad. I would suggest using 91% isopropyl alcohol to try to clean the directional keys without taking the camera apart. Gary
This is a great tutorial it just left one question for me! the gasket under the remover IR cut filter was left out. Is this the case with all the camera mods and is this the reason for the post mod 1/12th adjustment to the sensor? Ray
On Canon t3i (factory settings) measuring the distance on posts marking torx screws about how many mm should posts be to get back to factory settings? Thanks in advance
.hello friend thanks for you video I am from Argentina. the truth is very good so I congratulate you make please I have a Canon T3i and I want to use for astrophotography withdraw the original filter. and what is the best option? to photograph nebulas .. what would be the best filter to place or not place. I do not know English and this is translated by google. Thank you. if you can tell me where filter and buy it in the United States. so that it reaches to a friend who lives in florida
Hi Gary, Would a Baader external cell-mounted UV/IR cut filter (let's say 2" size) successfully replace the Baader BCF? Do you know if they may have the same kind of optical imperfections as you are talking about in this video? Do you know if there is a good quality external equivalent to the Baader BCF? Maybe from other vendors like Astronomik. Of course, without affecting the Ha wavelength. Thanks!
I am putting my T4i back together and the video somehow skips installing the circuit board. I see to my sadness that Gary passed away a couple years ago. I hope this video stays on youtube as it is great that his legacy is still going.
Paul G. You will be able to reach focus with your Newtonian telescope if the primary mirror is in the position for astro imaging and not for visual use only. The clear glass also serves as a protector for the imaging sensor, see this message on my support group for more details: groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/DSLRmodifications/conversations/messages/8668
Gary Honis Thank you, I would like to join to read the group but I will not agree to yahoo policy to force me registering with my cellphone number, sorry.
after modding my t5i the screen works but i have no display.. i took picture by touching the lcd.. any help much appreciated. great vid and instructions on your site.
If you're going to show a video of how to make modifications it would be nice to SEE how you do it! You did a lot of steps where the actual view of you doing them were either off screen or hidden by your hand...
Gary one thing I dont get is what is wrong with just leaving the CMOS cover glass as the only thing in front of the sensor. How exactly is the clear glass helping?
adam jensen Removing the filter changes the focusing point relative to the sensor, and different wavelengths will focus at slightly different points afterward. This will cause slight chromatic aberration and problems with the camera's metering resulting in autofocus inaccuracy and hunting. Adding a glass sheet of the same thickness as the original filter preserves the cameras internal geometry and will produce a generally better result.
Hi Adam, With the clear glass installed you would be able to capture all wavelengths of light making the camera Full Spectrum. When imaging with a IR pass filter you would be able to take infrared images and videos during the day and also at night. If you are imaging with an SCT, RC or Reflector telescope at prime you would be able to capture increased luminance and also increased detail because the antialiasing (blurring) filter is removed. Gary
Hi Andre, With the Baader type of modification you return the sensor screws to their original positions. With the clear glass modification there is a slight adjustment. This is explained at 41:00 in the video and also on my website that has detailed instructions. According to Astronomik if you added a clear glass of the same thickness to the filter frame, the metal frame that holds it in place would not fit. Gary
Very late to the party here but am I right in thinking I can remove both filters so the sensor is naked, then use something like a skytech cls-ccd filter?
Is it necessary to replace it with Astronomic MC clear glass? What's the difference if I just left it empty? It seems a little expensive, are there any cheaper alternatives?
If you don't replace the filters with anything, the autofocus feature of the camera will not function. Most camera lenses will be unable to reach focus at infinity for astro imaging, even with manual focusing. Another reason for using an Astronomik MC clear glass for full spectrum modifications is because it acts as an optical window to protect the CMOS imaging chip. I have seen cameras with dirty front filters that are not only dusty but have difficult to remove grime (tree sap is one suspect). Even worse, there have been reports on my support group of the front filter becoming pitted. I have replaced front filters that have been badly scratched by users during their attempts at cleaning. A front filter is much less expensive to replace than a CMOS imaging sensor assembly. Then again, for a Full Spectrum mod with no clear glass installed, if a clip-in type filter is kept inside the camera body, it provides good protection of the imaging chip. For a less expensive alternative to the Astronomik MC clear glass, you could try cutting your own glass, but it should be of high quality, plane optically polished and multi-coated.
Gary Honis Thank you so much. I won't be needing full spectrum, so I bought a 665nm internal filter to replace it with. I'm just afraid I'll get shocked.
Thank you sooo much for your effort! I had a headache while choosing which mod to get - remove both filters, get Baader mod, leave only the front IR cut filter.....ewww. The Astronomik is so much better option.
HI gary- thanks for the information- i have 5d mark ii i like to convert - where can i get Astronomik Multi-Coated and optically pollished clear glass in the right size . thanks. and if you have more information ill be happy to learn -
I was wondering if you have any experience with the T2i, is there much difference inside when converting? I can't seem to find any info on here using the T2i. Thanks
I have detailed modification instructions on my website at GaryHonis.com and they include the T2i (550D) model. The modification procedure is similar in general to that of the T4i.
I made the mistake of not measuring the screws... Was working ahead in the video. Tried imaging earlier and the sensor is clearly tilted as the bottom right corner is slightly out of focus now... It's gotta come apart again, however, I have no idea what measurements to apply to the sensor posts.
Oh i will use baader uv filter in order to make use of the cmos ir sensitivity. Will this clear glass block the ir and uv ? From the description it seems it will
Rivai Chen No. It is used for Full Spectrum. See the Full Spectrum Modification spectral analysis here: GaryHonis.com/DSLRcomparison.html You can also find detailed instructions for modifying the 600D there.
Gary Honis Hi Gary, thanks for the link. Im trying to read the word at the bottom chart if it goes down to 300nm. Canon 600D with fully removed filters can go down to nearly 300nm. And it seems from the chart it went down further than 3900 just not sure how far it reach. But i can safely assume that this filter did nothing to the sensor at all.
You remove the original IR blocking filter because it blocks the all important h-alpha wavelength for emission nebula. You replace the original filter with a Baader DSLR replacement filter or an Astronomik MC Clear Glass (for full spectrum imaging.) Gary
@@ghonis Thank you, I managed to find a filter in my town, I done the Mod myself today to a T3, was careful to put everything back exactly as it was but now when I press the shutter button it's giving me Error 30, have you seen this before?
There are a couple of places that will do it, you can find one using google and decide which one you'd like to go with. Expect to pay $400+. If you do, let me know how it goes, I'm thinking about getting my D7000 converted.
Hi gary i have recently taken out the IR filter out of my 500D but as I didnt take any test shots to begin with (taking the filter out as soon as i got it) I am unsure if my camera is in true focus. Is there any way i can find out?
sidgarth ansac You can take test images using a focus test chart as explained on my website. If you removed the original IR filter and didn't install a Baader replacement, your autofocus will be off, but focusing using liveview should work. Another test you can do is: Put your camera on a tripod and focus your lens manually using liveview. Then use your camera's autofocus to focus and take an image. Both the liveview and autofocus focused images should be the same.
there are a lot of details and parts inside. If done incorrectly, or not careful will damage the connection cable or contact pins. a job that needs persistence and fun
+Gary Honis thanks for your answer. So you don't notice any difference between glue or no glue? The reason I'm asking that I don't want the glue to spread over the filter and damage the optics. It seems like the hardest the part of the procedure to me, so I would like to avoid it if possible.
+doramason I have always glued the Baader filter in place, so can't compare the difference. I use silicone glue and that is what Canon is using for gluing the LPF#2 in place in later models. You may want to ask your question on my support group here: groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/DSLRmodifications/info There are many on my support group that have modified their own cameras.
+Gary Honis Thanks very much Gary! I had very easy experience with modding Canon 350d several years ago where there was only one thick filter in front of the sensor. Now there are two filters so I am a bit confused which should I remove or replace? Can I get good Ha spectrum sensitivity with only removing one of the filters (and which one if so) or I should remove both and put only Baader UV/IR. Thanks again! :) You are a legend for astro-modded DLSRs!
+MrGreenFull Both of the original filters block UV/IR. The second filter LPF#2 is the color correcting filter that needs to be removed to increase capture of h-alpha. I would highly recommend a full spectrum modification using the Astronomik MC clear glass because you would capture more detail.
+Gary Honis Thanks again for the answer! As I will use camera only with apo-refractor and some canon lenses (only refracting optics, no newtonians...) I presume I should stick to the Astronomic UV/IR instead of clear glass? I dont understand the purpose of pietzo element except its a one more glass in the optical path just for simple, and many times, not effective dust cleaning. But if I remove it, I will not reach focus on most lenses at infinity... I hope I am wrong? :)
Hi , does anybody if there are digital cameras with out the IR filter?, bECAUSE MY NEW CAMERA does not have one. But i still see normal colors.... Thanks a lot folks.
Hi Vera, They are much different camera models. You can see how to modify the T5 camera here: www.lifepixel.com/tutorials/infrared-diy-tutorials/life-pixel-canon-rebel-t5-diy-digital-infrared-conversion-tutorial
The problem with just removing the IR cut filter and not replacing it with anything is explained in my other RUclips video "Canon DSLR Front Filter Versus Baader Filter Modification Test."
Thank you for recording this and making it available. I just completed the job successfully. Your calm voice made the nerve wracking process easier for sure!!
Thanks to your great modification instructions I was able to modify a 700D which I needed modified for my bachelor thesis. I`m using it to take pictures of solarpanels and see its electroluminescence.
You just answered my question. Thank you. (T5i / 700D also )
@@skylane807 I dont even know your question, but Im glad that I could help :p.
Gary this is a very detailed and precise video, and it went easily for me, a 40 year electronics technician, but...good lord, I hope noone watches this and thinks they can do it unless they are very experienced with micro sized electronics...there are so many places one can ruin something, or break a part, mix up screws etc etc, Id suggest to anyone but the most capable electronics people to contact a local camera shop, spend a little money and have them do it,or just buy one astromodded. good luck however you go, the mod will really make a huge difference in your AP effort.
I agree that it is extremely delicate but an electronics background is not what is required. You don't solder or do any troubleshooting. What is required however is extreme finesse. Also a mechanical background is helpful and I mean almost machinist level if you strip a screw. I stripped the head of the screw directly under the lens on the front cover. I saw someone else had also stripped the same one. They were extremely tight and the little phillips driver rounded it out in the loosen direction. Phillips are actually designed to "cam out" so it stripped per design! I saw someone else had the same screw strip and it sounded like they were dead in the water. I drilled out the head until all that was left of the head was a thin ring which rode up my small drill bit. I was able to slip the front cover over the stud that was left and replaced it with a screw from a screw kit.
When I turned the camera on, everything works except for the info screen. I'm guessing I will find I didn't fully engage a ribbon or connector somewhere. I was able to take several photos however and the camera works, just need to figure out what isn't quite plugged in.
Oh, the video for some reason is missing the section where you install the circuit board and all the ribbons. I was following it and next thing I knew I was instructed to install the body cover and the board was still in front of me. The sad thing is I discovered Gary passed away a few years ago which explains why there are no answers to peoples questions. I wish I could have know Gary, he was a very good teacher.
Update: Its a few minutes later and it is working 100%. The issue with the dead LCD screen was a ribbon cable on the top of the board that is under the plug in ribbon. After close inspection, I noticed it was not inserted all the way. You would have thought it would have been the connector coming from the LCD panel but it wasn't. If you are all thumbs don't even consider this project.
Thank you ! Better video on RUclips. I have T3i but almost same than T4i. Took me 3 hours. Was a lot of work, but all is alright. Thank you again!
Hi Joe,
Congratulations on a successful T4i Mod! You don't need the piezzo element. With it not installed you can't do auto cleanings or use the dust delete data feature. You could attach it on the back side of the sensor if you cut the glass smaller using a scribe and kept the white piezo element intact. Consider joining my Yahoo support group DSLRmodifications if you are not already a member.
Gary
You were so clear and careful. It is crucial to mention about the final filter assembly details, Astronomick vs Baader type, especially for a full spectrum. Thanks a lot. Will try it on my old EOS 350D.
Hi Arand, I retired from my modfication busisness on January 1, 2018. You can 350D ship to Hap Griffin. Gary
Hi Arand, I don't know the website for modifacation for 350D. Gary
Hi Anand, I will try you can order the astro-shop from Germany! Gary
Hi Anand, Good luck with your old EOS 350D!! Gary
I've just followed your instructions on my 700D (except I only removed the IR cut filter, planning on just using this with my refractor and a 2 inch UV filter) and when I try to use live view or take a photo it says 'shooting not possible due to an error'. Is this normal or have I done something wrong? Will the camera still shoot using APT? It auto focuses in the viewfinder well
Hi, could you fixed the issue? I have a 850D and have the error 70
@@LE018_07nope, couldn’t fix it. Ended up buying a 533MC Pro
@jackvanderlinden9234 so sorry hear that, I just recalibrate the sensor using a vernier caliper and connecting very carefully the ribbon cables
@@LE018_07 hi! Do you have any sheet or instructions for the 850D?
I have the same model and I want to add a astronomik glass with the lpf1. Are this video helpful?
@@joaomoreiraastrophotographer yes, the sensor is fitted whit there bolts, with a pen mark each position be careful don't mix it the bolts and then put each one in the same place and you'll be ready to go, hope works for you too
I just wanted to say Thank you for this video. I just modded my 650d today... And it still works :D Cheers.
you should making a camera with all this knowledge, hats off sir. we need more of you instead of politicians and bad lawyers.
Fantastic video. It is tough to provide good viewing on a demo like this. Helped me out a lot, especially measuring the height of the sensor. Thanks for taking time to do this Gary!
Hi Ray,
No, the rubber gasket was not left out. It was never removed from the frame.
The reason for the 1/12th adjustment to the sensor position for the Full Spectrum modification is because the thickness of the clear glass is not the same thickness as the sum of the thicknesses of the the two removed filters.
Gary
Thank you for this video. It gives me more confidence to open up my own T4i to do repairs and mods!
Thanks for posting such a detailed video! Together with your written instructions they are perfect for modding. My Baader BCF mod is a success! Keep up the great work for the community
Holy Moley!....Incredible work Gary....To say that you pretty handy, would be a understatement, WOW! Just found your site and look forward to reviewing your other videos. Thanks for posting and your time is appreciated. Best Regards
I have just completed modifying my 650D with astronomik MC clear glass, thanks for this great tutorial
Many thanks, just followed your instructions and all went swimmingly well!
Thanks Gary, this video was very helpful, I just modified my 650D using this video and the instructions on your site.
Hi Gary, great video, it was the final push to convert my 600d (European model) to infrared only. I have two comments to your methodology:
a) it's better to false to the close focus side = more screwed sensor screws than to the infinity side because it's preferable to loose the extreme close focus distance than the infinity focus,
b) In case somebody removes completely both filters, the camera then get's stuck in a sensor cleaning cycle which of course can not be finished because the whole element is missing. The solution for this is to disable automatic cleaning when turning on and off PRIOR of the modification. After the modification it's impossible to enter the menu because the camera is trying t finish cleaning first! And it does it for several minutes believe me!
I removed completely both filters because I would like to use the camera to take video of roosting bat's at night using infrared light torches. The only light I have to deal with is the infrared light of my torch and I need as much light is possible to get the video.
I did the mod everything works fine, I focus with live view the colors even with daylight are interesting except a major problem: the camera flashes no card!!! The problem is that the card and card board are not touched at this mod and I can't see how they can be damaged with the procedure. The camera was working before so something must have been screwed up but what? I have the alternative solution to leave it as it is and use EOS utility for photo shooting and an Atomos recorder fro video but as you can understand stand alone operation would have been preferable. Any ideas about this problem? Any help would great, thank you again, Yiannis.
Hi Ioannis, I have 600D (European model) to loose the extreme close. Gary
@@ghonis Hello Gary thank you very much fr your reply. In the meanwhile I took apart again the main board (it took me less than 15 minutes compared to the 2 hours of the initial mod I did this morning!) The good news is that now the card works!! so maybe one of the cables wasn't connected back properly and it was the cable coming from the card reader. Thank you again great mod.
My plan is to remove lpf2 but leave lpf1 in place to protect the sensor. I use a newt so I'm hoping to not have star bloat. I will add a 2" IR filter if I do see this. I don't need to have autofocus work, but shouldn't it be possible to adjust the screw height to compensate? Like how you mark the screws to adjust for the difference in glass thickness?
I would think that instead of inward adjustment that an outward is needed? Perhaps there is not enough play to compensate? I was hoping that by marking the screws that a half turn outward might help with focus?
Thanks for all this info! Can't imagine trying this without all this detail.
Kevin
What is your Borg designation?
Just finished my modification on a T5i and it works!!! Thank you for this great how to video.
Hi OMGCBAs, Congratulations on your successful T5i modification! Gary
Fantastic work, very clear and professional instructions. Thank you for taking the time to demonstrate the process!
Just finished nodding my canon 600D using your walkthrough on your website, I didn’t how ever replace the IR cut filter with anything I just have a the low pass filter 1, I’m ordering a clip in IR/UV filter next next week from the USA, in Australia there isn’t anything like that around sadly! Thanks for all the info!
Hi, I have done astromodification to my canon 600D (only LP2 removed, not replaced with any). The order in the sensor unit I saw was, LP1 and then LP2, and then CMOS Sensor. LP2 was attached to the system with a black plastic frame (glued on to the frame). I had removed this LP2 (it got broken while removing), not replaced with any filter and kept the empty plastic frame as it is and then LP1 but after power up my camera got stuck at sensor cleaning, could not do any operation. Can you tell me what went wrong and how to correct it ? Thanks in advance
same mate, did you get a fix?
@@Dan_13-w1p hi. It's because it is not able to read memory card. When you power up sensor cleaning happens and then goes to reading memory card. As it's failing to read memory card it is stuck at memory card. I made sensor cleaning option disabled (in menu settings). So it's working now. But it's not reading memory card. I had done something wrong while doing modification which made this otherwise it's all fine now. So I am taking photos without memory card by connecting it to laptop and using Canon EOS utility SW.
One more thing, as it is getting stuck at sensor cleaning , you can't even open menu options also. For that what I did was I de-assembled and assembled again and after I set date and time, immediately I went to Menu and dissabled "sensor cleaning while power up".
Thank you I appreciate the response. Unfortunately I broke mine in the end! Absolutely gutted
Hi Scott,
For a Full Spectrum modification you should see the transmission curve for the MC Clear Glass on the Astronomik web site. With the clear glass a limiting factor is also the wavelength response of the CMOS imaging sensor. Varying reports are that at the low UV end, the cutoff is either 200nm, 305nm or 380nm. At the high infrared end the cutoff is around 1000nm.
With a Baader modification, UV is blocked and Infrared is also blocked above 700nm.
Hi Scott,
You can your clear glass from Astro-shop in Germany.
Gary
Hi Scott,
You can buy a clear glass from Astro-shop in Germany.
Gary
Hi Scott,
You can buy a clear glass from Astro-shop in Germany
Gary
Brilliant Mod. I Will Do It To my 650D Because im done with taking photos of people, now im on astro
I'm about to do this to my T3i but was wondering about the screw sheet you mentioned. I always have issues keeping track of screws. can you explain to track them? thanks
Succesfully modified my T3i, was scary but it worked. Thanks
Thank you for the instructions! Can I just remove the IR filter without replacing it with any other filter? I'm using it only for Celestron Newtonian AVX. Will I be able to focus? Will I be able to use focal reducer and/or a coma corrector? If I can't will using a clip-in filter work and solve the problems? What are the downsides of not replacing the filter? Thanks in advance!
Hi Anthony, The front filter (LPF#1) does not fully block IR and can result in star bloat. The problem with having only the front filter (LPF#1) in place is that it is a weak IR blocker and does not block all infrared light. If you planned to image with a reflector telescope only at prime, that would be okay. Once you add a focal reducer, corrector or barlow to the imaging train, you would need to include a UV/IR cut filter in the imaging train to avoid star bloat. If you plan to image with a refractor telescope, you would also need to add a UV/IR cut filter in the imaging train.
If all you did is to remove the blue IR cut filter (LPF#2) and left the front filter in place (LPF#1) without installing a replacement filter, you will get some star bloat when imaging with lens systems because LPF#1 is a weak IR blocker. See:
ruclips.net/video/r9-8lB1e_20/видео.html
Star bloat will be an issue if you are imaging with lens type systems like refractor telescopes, camera lenses or using barlows or focal reducers. Gary
Great tutorial Gary thank you. I have a question if you don't mind? Would I be right in assuming the same proceedure, is applicable for the T3 i? Thanks in advance.
Very instructive video, thanks. Should I replace IR filter with a clear glass one? May I not leave empty the black filter frame?
Hi Gary, thank you so much for your great tutorial. I managed to modify my Canon 500D with excellent results! One question though, I did not replace the filter removed with any Baader or Astronomik Clear Glass. I'm using the DSLR with a newtonian telescope and I already watched your video regarding IR blocking capabilities of the LPF front filter alone. Do you think I will have bloated stars with my Newtonian or any issues due to IR not being cut properly? I do have an Astronomik CLS-CCD filter but I'm planning on shooting M78 and I'm worried the filter might do more harm than good to the reflection nebula. So do you think I could get away by not using the CLS-CCD without introducing any IR artifacts to my image? (I am using a GSO coma corrector btw) Cheers!
Hi Anthony, I don't thing with bloating. You can your Canon 500D camera to Hap Griffin. Gary
@@ghonis What?! hehe
Thanks for your tutorial Gary. Hope you still follow this thread! Can this guide be used directly for the 550D? Curious to know what happens to the piezzo electric dust shaker? Does it get ruined?
sorry ... your video provided a solution ... but I already opened my sensor and I forgot to measure the original ... so do you have a solution for the original size for the 600d canon
this is very helpful tutorial.. thanks sir.. i watched this tutorial a many times to repair my 650d
Hi Zikri, Glad to hear you were able to repair your 650D camera. Detailed instructions for the 650D & 700D cameras are here:
GaryHonis.com/650Dmod/650Dreinstallsteps1.html
Wish your right hand was transparent ;-)
Hi Lau,
I have detailed modification instructions on my website: GaryHonis.com
Which one is the AA filter?
like the videogame Punchout..
the website has detailed images and instructions..dont try this without going there first
Dang, why don't all cameras come like this with removable filters to use as needed. Also why not have models with no bayer color either so you can do true mono for those few that would like that. Im going to do this for my T3i.
How many cameras did you trash to find the perfect disassembly? 😱
This is great Gary, Can I ask a question about the process? You added a further piece of glass after you took out the IR/cut filter. Do you need to add this extra glass? I want to follow your instructions to do the astro mod but without the extra glass what effect will it have. I am not looking to use this camera for regular photography again only astro.
Regards
i’m planning on doing the same did you end up leaving it empty? if so how did it go?
Really enjoyed your video, I've done a few compact camera repairs which I had to totally dismantle and reassemble to get at lens mechanism. It is a daunting experience at first. I would suggest anyone trying this to buy a few cheap old cameras of ebay to pratcice on, have good lighting, dust free workshop, very clean table and floor so if you drop something you stand a chance of finding it. Best to practice on cheap compact cameras, some of them have have easy removable IF filters, just take it out and rebuild.
hi. thanks for very useful instructions. what happen if remove IR cut filter and dont replace any thing?
Hi Seyed, If you remove both filters, the camera will be unable to reach focus on most camera lenses at infinity. The Autofocus function will also be disabled. If you plan to image with a telescope, you can instead use the telescope focuser to reach focus using the camera's liveview display. If your telescope imaging system uses any lens elements you would need to add a UV/IR filter somewhere in the imaging train. The imaging sensor itself would be exposed to dust and debris if you do not replace the two original filters.
Another reason for using a multi-coated optically polished clear glass for full spectrum modifications is because it acts as an optical window to protect the CMOS imaging chip. The Astronomik MC Clear Glass is very durable and scratch resistant. I have seen cameras with dirty front filters that are not only dusty but have difficult to remove grime (tree sap is one suspect). Even worse, there have been reports on my support group of the front filter becoming pitted. I have replaced front filters that have been badly scratched by users during their attempts at cleaning. A front filter is much less expensive to replace than a CMOS imaging sensor assembly. Then again, for a Full Spectrum mod with no clear glass installed, if your clip-in type filter is kept inside the camera body at all times, it provides good protection of the imaging chip. Gary
thanks a million for your kind and fast response.
Great instruction, just finished my sucessvol eos600D mod, based on this tutorial and the written one on the site. It's absolutely doable if you take the time. One suggestion is to point out that you have to free all ribboncables before installing the sensor. the bottom ones (A and B) were trappend behnd the sensor because i was not paying attention. So i had to loosen the sensor again to free them.
I came here to learn how to do the astro-mod to a used T2i I purchased a few weeks ago. 15 minutes in and nope nope nope nope nope. I'm not doing that. I'd never get the camera back together again. Great video though. I applaud you meticulous attention to detail.
I dont have the replacement filter. Will the camera be good for astrophotography if i keep the front filter and remove the remaining 2?
Hi, do you maybe know where the temperature sensor of a canon eos is usually physically located, on which pcb plate part, directly behind the sensor or further away on the main board plate? (The one which reads temp and writes it to the exif header)
Hi, i am looking to clean my directional key pad on my camera, and i was wondering that once you got the back popped off if it was possible to detach the keys so that i could get them to quit sticking and being hard to press? thank you
+Julia Tenney
Hi Julia,
When I take the camera apart for a modification, I don't do anything with the camera back. That is I don't disassemble it down to the directional keypad.
I would suggest using 91% isopropyl alcohol to try to clean the directional keys without taking the camera apart.
Gary
Thank you!
This is a great tutorial it just left one question for me! the gasket under the remover IR cut filter was left out.
Is this the case with all the camera mods and is this the reason for the post mod 1/12th adjustment to the sensor?
Ray
Is this Astronomik UV-IR Block Clip-Filter as good as original IR filter and the camera is good for normal photography.
On Canon t3i (factory settings) measuring the distance on posts marking torx screws about how many mm should posts be to get back to factory settings? Thanks in advance
Thanks for the video! What would happen if instead of replacing the ir cut filter just remove it?
.hello friend thanks for you video I am from Argentina.
the truth is very good so I congratulate you make
please I have a Canon T3i and I want to use for astrophotography withdraw the original filter. and what is the best option? to photograph nebulas .. what would be the best filter to place or not place. I do not know English and this is translated by google. Thank you. if you can tell me where filter and buy it in the United States. so that it reaches to a friend who lives in florida
Hi Gary,
Would a Baader external cell-mounted UV/IR cut filter (let's say 2" size) successfully replace the Baader BCF? Do you know if they may have the same kind of optical imperfections as you are talking about in this video?
Do you know if there is a good quality external equivalent to the Baader BCF? Maybe from other vendors like Astronomik. Of course, without affecting the Ha wavelength.
Thanks!
Hi Vlad, You can Baader 2"external cell-mounted UV/IR cut filter.
Gary
Thanks, Gary! Really appreciate!
Hi Vlad, Thanks alot!!!
Gary Honis
18 hours ago
Hi Vlad, Thanks alot!!!
Hi Vlad, thanks alot!!! Gary
do you work on cameras for people i have a canon t5 that needs a mirror replaced and have it moded
I am putting my T4i back together and the video somehow skips installing the circuit board. I see to my sadness that Gary passed away a couple years ago. I hope this video stays on youtube as it is great that his legacy is still going.
HelloGary, what all do I need to convert my rebel t4 to Infrared and how much does it cost to convert,
Hi Gary, Thanks for your video tutorial. Quick question, is it really necessary to have clear glass filter as replacement ?
Yes. If you don't replace the original filters with a clear glass of appropriate thickness, you will not be able to focus with most camera lenses.
Gary Honis But when I use it only on my Newton Telescope do I still need the clear glass?
Paul G. You will be able to reach focus with your Newtonian telescope if the primary mirror is in the position for astro imaging and not for visual use only. The clear glass also serves as a protector for the imaging sensor, see this message on my support group for more details: groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/DSLRmodifications/conversations/messages/8668
Gary Honis Thank you, I would like to join to read the group but I will not agree to yahoo policy to force me registering with my cellphone number, sorry.
Paul G. Reply to me directly by private email and I will answer you by email.
after modding my t5i the screen works but i have no display.. i took picture by touching the lcd.. any help much appreciated. great vid and instructions on your site.
Hi BHC,
You can reseating the ribbon cables on the mainboard. Gary
all working now tnx to your advice.. did a little cleaning and reseating the ribbon cables. now waiting for clear skies 👍🏼
If you're going to show a video of how to make modifications it would be nice to SEE how you do it! You did a lot of steps where the actual view of you doing them were either off screen or hidden by your hand...
Gary one thing I dont get is what is wrong with just leaving the CMOS cover glass as the only thing in front of the sensor. How exactly is the clear glass helping?
adam jensen Removing the filter changes the focusing point relative to the sensor, and different wavelengths will focus at slightly different points afterward. This will cause slight chromatic aberration and problems with the camera's metering resulting in autofocus inaccuracy and hunting. Adding a glass sheet of the same thickness as the original filter preserves the cameras internal geometry and will produce a generally better result.
Hi Adam, With the clear glass installed you would be able to capture all wavelengths of light making the camera Full Spectrum. When imaging with a IR pass filter you would be able to take infrared images and videos during the day and also at night. If you are imaging with an SCT, RC or Reflector telescope at prime you would be able to capture increased luminance and also increased detail because the antialiasing (blurring) filter is removed. Gary
Hi Andre, With the Baader type of modification you return the sensor screws to their original positions. With the clear glass modification there is a slight adjustment. This is explained at 41:00 in the video and also on my website that has detailed instructions. According to Astronomik if you added a clear glass of the same thickness to the filter frame, the metal frame that holds it in place would not fit. Gary
Very late to the party here but am I right in thinking I can remove both filters so the sensor is naked, then use something like a skytech cls-ccd filter?
Is it necessary to replace it with Astronomic MC clear glass? What's the difference if I just left it empty? It seems a little expensive, are there any cheaper alternatives?
If you don't replace the filters with anything, the autofocus feature of the camera will not function. Most camera lenses will be unable to reach focus at infinity for astro imaging, even with manual focusing.
Another reason for using an Astronomik MC clear glass for full spectrum modifications is because it acts as an optical window to protect the CMOS imaging chip. I have seen cameras with dirty front filters that are not only dusty but have difficult to remove grime (tree sap is one suspect). Even worse, there have been reports on my support group of the front filter becoming pitted. I have replaced front filters that have been badly scratched by users during their attempts at cleaning. A front filter is much less expensive to replace than a CMOS imaging sensor assembly. Then again, for a Full Spectrum mod with no clear glass installed, if a clip-in type filter is kept inside the camera body, it provides good protection of the imaging chip. For a less expensive alternative to the Astronomik MC clear glass, you could try cutting your own glass, but it should be of high quality, plane optically polished and multi-coated.
Gary Honis Thank you so much. I won't be needing full spectrum, so I bought a 665nm internal filter to replace it with. I'm just afraid I'll get shocked.
Thank you sooo much for your effort! I had a headache while choosing which mod to get - remove both filters, get Baader mod, leave only the front IR cut filter.....ewww. The Astronomik is so much better option.
Thank you very much! Very helpful video! :)
HI gary-
thanks for the information-
i have 5d mark ii i like to convert -
where can i get Astronomik Multi-Coated and optically pollished clear glass in the right size .
thanks.
and if you have more information ill be happy to learn -
are clip on filters just as good such as the SVBONY UHC Filter Ultra High Contrast Filter EOS-C.
Gary Honis, do you know where I can get UV by-pass filter instead a IR filter?
Got my Sony A7r III in IR and wants in UV.
I was wondering if you have any experience with the T2i, is there much difference inside when converting? I can't seem to find any info on here using the T2i. Thanks
I have detailed modification instructions on my website at GaryHonis.com and they include the T2i (550D) model. The modification procedure is similar in general to that of the T4i.
I made the mistake of not measuring the screws... Was working ahead in the video. Tried imaging earlier and the sensor is clearly tilted as the bottom right corner is slightly out of focus now... It's gotta come apart again, however, I have no idea what measurements to apply to the sensor posts.
If yes, where do you get the clear glass replacement ? I tried to search for it online but couldnt find any. Thanks for the guide
Hi Rivai,
I use Astronomik MC Clear Glass:
www.astronomik.com/en/photographic-filters/mc-glass-for-dslr-astromodification.html
Ok i intend to modify 600D with canon marco lens. I wonder if im going to have focus issue. Thanks for the link. Appreciate it very much
Oh i will use baader uv filter in order to make use of the cmos ir sensitivity. Will this clear glass block the ir and uv ? From the description it seems it will
Rivai Chen No. It is used for Full Spectrum. See the Full Spectrum Modification spectral analysis here:
GaryHonis.com/DSLRcomparison.html
You can also find detailed instructions for modifying the 600D there.
Gary Honis
Hi Gary, thanks for the link. Im trying to read the word at the bottom chart if it goes down to 300nm. Canon 600D with fully removed filters can go down to nearly 300nm. And it seems from the chart it went down further than 3900 just not sure how far it reach. But i can safely assume that this filter did nothing to the sensor at all.
something that i didn't understood is why would you remove the built in ir filter to put a new one?
interesting video non the less!
You remove the original IR blocking filter because it blocks the all important h-alpha wavelength for emission nebula. You replace the original filter with a Baader DSLR replacement filter or an Astronomik MC Clear Glass (for full spectrum imaging.) Gary
Hey Gary can you recommend a good uv/ir hot mirror to use to take normal photos? Saw your other video. I have a full spectrum canon t3i rebel
Is it necessary to put in a replacement filter or can you get away with using just the original top filter?
Hi Dylan, You can purchace on my website GaryHonis.com
Hi Dylan, You the watch my youtube: ruclips.net/user/results?search_query=garyhonis.com+youtube+ir+filter. Gary
@@ghonis Thank you, I managed to find a filter in my town, I done the Mod myself today to a T3, was careful to put everything back exactly as it was but now when I press the shutter button it's giving me Error 30, have you seen this before?
Hi Dylan Slate, You should reseat the ribbon cables on the mainboard. Gary
Is it possible to remove the remove the rgb filter to make the sensor a true monochrome (including infrared) detector?
+massmanute Yes, you have to scratch it off on most cameras. It's a very delicate process, I suggest you have the camera sent out to have it done.
+shadowbird42333
Thanks. I wonder where one might send a camera for this kind of work.
There are a couple of places that will do it, you can find one using google and decide which one you'd like to go with. Expect to pay $400+. If you do, let me know how it goes, I'm thinking about getting my D7000 converted.
Hi gary i have recently taken out the IR filter out of my 500D but as I didnt take any test shots to begin with (taking the filter out as soon as i got it) I am unsure if my camera is in true focus. Is there any way i can find out?
sidgarth ansac You can take test images using a focus test chart as explained on my website. If you removed the original IR filter and didn't install a Baader replacement, your autofocus will be off, but focusing using liveview should work. Another test you can do is: Put your camera on a tripod and focus your lens manually using liveview. Then use your camera's autofocus to focus and take an image. Both the liveview and autofocus focused images should be the same.
awesome thanks :)
You can also adapt and cutout a piece of UHC/LPR filter on to the sensor area.
Hi Alan,
I retired from my business modification on January 1, 2018!
Gary
I have a Canon 700d camera that does not work completely and does not give any warning and the screen is black, what is the problem
there are a lot of details and parts inside. If done incorrectly, or not careful will damage the connection cable or contact pins. a job that needs persistence and fun
Hey Gary, I didn't see a screw sheet on your website for this camera, is it the same as the t3i?
No it's not the same as the T3i. If you email me at ghonis@ptd.net , I can scan the screw sheet that I use and email it to you. Gary
Why do we have to glue the baader filter? It looks quite stuck where it is, can it actually move and lose position?
+doramason
The original filter that it replaces is glued in place, so I think it is best to glue the Baader replacement filter as well.
+Gary Honis thanks for your answer. So you don't notice any difference between glue or no glue? The reason I'm asking that I don't want the glue to spread over the filter and damage the optics. It seems like the hardest the part of the procedure to me, so I would like to avoid it if possible.
+doramason
I have always glued the Baader filter in place, so can't compare the difference. I use silicone glue and that is what Canon is using for gluing the LPF#2 in place in later models. You may want to ask your question on my support group here:
groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/DSLRmodifications/info
There are many on my support group that have modified their own cameras.
What Type of glue is Good ? Which brand ? Loctite ? Can’t find any good in Spain. And don’t want to ruin the filter.
Hi;
Is it necessary to replace the first filter with piezo part?
Red adhesive is a nail polish. Better use acetone or solutions that have acetone (nail polish remover)
Thanks a lot for this good tutorial. All went well for me👍
Do you happen to have a video on replacing the SD card slot on the T4i model?
Hello,
the filters for 550d and 650d are the same?
thanks for the video!
+MrGreenFull
Yes, the filters are the same for both models.
+Gary Honis
Thanks very much Gary!
I had very easy experience with modding Canon 350d several years ago where there was only one thick filter in front of the sensor. Now there are two filters so I am a bit confused which should I remove or replace? Can I get good Ha spectrum sensitivity with only removing one of the filters (and which one if so) or I should remove both and put only Baader UV/IR. Thanks again! :) You are a legend for astro-modded DLSRs!
+MrGreenFull
Both of the original filters block UV/IR. The second filter LPF#2 is the color correcting filter that needs to be removed to increase capture of h-alpha. I would highly recommend a full spectrum modification using the Astronomik MC clear glass because you would capture more detail.
+Gary Honis
Thanks again for the answer! As I will use camera only with apo-refractor and some canon lenses (only refracting optics, no newtonians...) I presume I should stick to the Astronomic UV/IR instead of clear glass?
I dont understand the purpose of pietzo element except its a one more glass in the optical path just for simple, and many times, not effective dust cleaning. But if I remove it, I will not reach focus on most lenses at infinity... I hope I am wrong? :)
+MrGreenFull
Astronomik does not make a UV/IR DSLR replacement filter. Baader makes a UV/IR DSLR replacement filter.
Hi , does anybody if there are digital cameras with out the IR filter?, bECAUSE MY NEW CAMERA does not have one. But i still see normal colors.... Thanks a lot folks.
Awesome job Gary
Great video ! would that work for my rebel t5?
Hi Vera, They are much different camera models. You can see how to modify the T5 camera here:
www.lifepixel.com/tutorials/infrared-diy-tutorials/life-pixel-canon-rebel-t5-diy-digital-infrared-conversion-tutorial
The problem with just removing the IR cut filter and not replacing it with anything is explained in my other RUclips video "Canon DSLR Front Filter Versus Baader Filter Modification Test."
Gary. You are a special creature. :)
Gary, is your site down?
is this procedure the exact some for a model t5i ?
great piece of instruction! thank you very much!
Would this tutorial work for the canon rebel 100D?
Hey I tried to get in your website but seems not working
What does the camera do what this new glass filter, how much will you do my T4i?
Hi Kevin,
I retired for my modification business January 1,2018.
Hi Kevin,
I retired from my business modification on January 1, 2018.
Gary
For the Baader DSLR UV/IR replacement filter you can check the Alpine Astro web site.
Gary
Hi Gary, I want to do this mod on my Nikon P900. Do you think it's possible?
Well yes but without a big telescope its not needed
Damn, I stripped a screw! The bottom one in the front. Those f-ers are in there tight. Any suggestions?
Hi Gary what is the nanometer spectrum range after conversion? Thanks!!