That's a Ffffff Ffffffff fantastic skeleton. Old models are a nice pallet cleanser to me as you don't have some much detail to worry about and can be pretty quick to paint up. If Skeleton Horde was around in the 90s I might have bought some undead for WHFB, oh well.
The light undercoat brings out the hightlights on the shield makes it look good. Thank you for the painting details of the skeleton warrior of the Tomb Kings.💀
Really enjoyed this video and took a few tips from it. The reductive technique is really cool paired up with contrast. I'm a huge advocate of using colours that can be shaded with the one wash like on the spear. Faces, bases, banners and shields baby.
Absolutely buddy! Keep your eyes peeled for the next video where we use the same techniques with a lot more care and time, they can be pushed further than most would think!
No matter how much time passes by, basecoating plus Army Painter quick shades still working wonders for me =) Even when there additional shades or highlights applied later on.
I'm always interested in how you arrange your workflow but how would you optimize busy models like Orks? I feel like I could be getting much more out of my painting time, any chance of a video for applying some of these methods to something like that? 🤞
Good idea! I remember being stressed out by Orks because I wanted each and every one to look slightly different. Maybe the secret is the undercoat instead of painfully choosing different midtones for details 🤔
This is a really good question! I paint a game where the minis are a mix of low detail quantity and very high detail quantity (Shadows of Brimstone/Forbidden Fortress) and it can be a jarring transition to go from a monster where there’s minimal detail beyond its skin texture in one painting session to a detailed samurai or gunslinger with a ton of materials and textures in the next! So I would love to see this as well.
I would absolutely love a video that goes into detail about colour choices. As a very novice painter I really struggle to tell what colours to use. In some of your videos about the slapchop method, instead of using black, grey, and white for the initial dry brush stage you use different colours. It would be nice to have a good breakdown for which colours you should use, depending on what contrast paint you want to put on top. Also, should you dry brush multiple different colours for areas that will be painted with different coloured contrast paints? Building on this further, you could explain how you decide what colours you use for highlights, and what colour washes you use, based on the main colour of the model. Finally, I’d also like an explanation on mixing paints. How do you choose which paints to mix to get the right colour? And how do you know how much to thin a paint to get the right colour? I know that the answer to a lot of this is trial and error, but it can be quite pricey to buy lots of paints, not really knowing which ones would be used. Either way, love all of the videos. You break down these complex techniques really nicely.
I really like how you positioned the skeleton with one shoulder forward as a soldier with a large shield would be positioned in combat, as opposed to facing chest forward and off balance. Kudos! Thanks for posting.
I enjoy that the shield took like 4x longer to do than the whole rest of the mini. It looks fantastic but would hate to have to do it 100+ times, though I guess you would get really good at it by the end.
You absolutely would get faster, and doing them in 5s or something would also speed it up maybe 2x overall. We also learned we could have aggressively stippled the purple rather than glazed, I think there's a very similar job doable in maybe 25% of the time. It's also nice to have one place like that on each mini to practise your highlights and placements, even if there is 100!
Interesting, im planning on doing my shield gradients the other way around - lighter at bottom and darker at the top, as i think at the angle ive posed they will catch more light at the bottom of the shields - like vehicle panels and capes.
You can get a lighter highlight on a dark base coat if you put more light layers, or if you go lighter with your highlight... it's not like an absolute thing that a dark base coat can't produce a light highlight :) Enjoyed it, thanks for posting!
I'm just imagining the thought process behind the paint choice. "Mmm I'm painting a horde of skeletons, what contest should I use?" Sees skeleton horde "PERFECT!"
Fantastic paint job and showing how easy it can be to achieve such a great result. I have one tiny issue and it might just be me but it feels like the sound on the video was exceptionally loud at stages (popping open the paint pots, heavy breathing etc) almost like it was to lure in asmr folk XD
I got a couple boxes of tomb guard and got all the extra kopesh swords on my cavalry and normal skeleton troops so they look way more egyptian than the standard ones. Highly recommended if you're going with the halberd guard and the other arms would go to waste anyway.
I like the *finish* of chaos black, I much prefer starting satin (keeps stuff smooth, aiding non-chalky drybrushing), unfortunately there's not really a user-friendly non-matte white spray can that I've found yet :)
Every time I try acrylic over plastic without a primer first it rubs off...tried with stuff like molotow one4all and GW acrylics. How did you manage to get the first doombull/world bearers red base coat to adhere properly? Or did the white scar zenithal protect it?
Learned so much from this channel honestly, ordered my first series D the other day - decided it was time to upgrade from my battered old makeup brush 🤣
Great video as always, I do have a minor critique. Not sure if you changed cameras or settings, but it seemed your focus is searching more than usual, made some parts hard on the old eyes.
Hi! As an old returning miniature painter, a lot has changed since i last was involved in the hobby! What is the purpose of sponge in glass vial, in the upper left corner of your painting palette? Cheers and thanks for the great videos!
I don't know if I would like it more if a whole squad of skellies should take the same shield or all having different coloured ones. In both cases the shields really do pop and don't make the minis feel that old :)
Nicely done! The camera really didn't like the first part with the skeleton... 😢 Would it be possible to put the notifications to 12 hours or something again? These 30 min ones makes it impossible to catch them live. 😢
We don't get a say on the notifications unfortunately, we will be doing our best to leave a good window though, which should increase the likelihood. I am also adjusting to new technology, so we should be clearer with audio and video in the next :)
Hello, I have an idea for a video. I have series D, series M and series N. I know when to use series D, but I’m not sure when to use series M or series N. Can you make a video breaking down when we should be using which series? Unless you already have a video about this and just I can’t find it.
Characterful, not 'outdated'! I prefer the older models as some of the newer ones have TOO MUCH detail. So much detail that their silhouette is just a jumbled mass of spikes and wispy bits that will probably snap off in no time.
I hated skeletons - some of the first minis I ever painted, before I knew anything at all as an 11 year old (why does painting them white and inking them black not work?). This tutorial almost makes me want to paint skellies again.
Two points - this does not seem like speed painting. If you spent 17 minutes (even with the film sped up in several areas) to complete just one, imagine the time spent to complete 60+. Secondly, the end result (at the 17:14 minute mark) looked very chalky. I am still not convinced that dry-brushing gives good results.
That's a Ffffff Ffffffff fantastic skeleton. Old models are a nice pallet cleanser to me as you don't have some much detail to worry about and can be pretty quick to paint up. If Skeleton Horde was around in the 90s I might have bought some undead for WHFB, oh well.
It was relaxing I must say, I WANTED to spend more time on the shield because the rest went so fast.
The light undercoat brings out the hightlights on the shield makes it look good.
Thank you for the painting details of the skeleton warrior of the Tomb Kings.💀
Really enjoyed this video and took a few tips from it. The reductive technique is really cool paired up with contrast. I'm a huge advocate of using colours that can be shaded with the one wash like on the spear.
Faces, bases, banners and shields baby.
Absolutely buddy! Keep your eyes peeled for the next video where we use the same techniques with a lot more care and time, they can be pushed further than most would think!
Great vid , as always Byron . Really loved the shields 👍
Cheers buddy :)
Speed painting at its best! Great final result, i loved it. 😊 👍
Cheers buddy! We are using the same methods and recipe slooow in the next video on something more modern, it turned out quite nicely!
I love seeing your videos... I always pick up something...like the drybrush stipple thing.
No matter how much time passes by, basecoating plus Army Painter quick shades still working wonders for me =) Even when there additional shades or highlights applied later on.
Great paint job, especially the shields!
Recipes for the other colours at 17:25 for anyone who didn’t see them.
I'm always interested in how you arrange your workflow but how would you optimize busy models like Orks? I feel like I could be getting much more out of my painting time, any chance of a video for applying some of these methods to something like that? 🤞
Good idea! I remember being stressed out by Orks because I wanted each and every one to look slightly different. Maybe the secret is the undercoat instead of painfully choosing different midtones for details 🤔
This is a really good question! I paint a game where the minis are a mix of low detail quantity and very high detail quantity (Shadows of Brimstone/Forbidden Fortress) and it can be a jarring transition to go from a monster where there’s minimal detail beyond its skin texture in one painting session to a detailed samurai or gunslinger with a ton of materials and textures in the next! So I would love to see this as well.
@@kmykz Just kitbash rocks into their hands or some shit. Skies the limit with every model, but Orks have in lore justification.
And now I *must* do a unit of night gobbos with cave rocks as the main weapons, maybe the odd sharp stalgmite. Thanks for the indirect inspiration!
I would absolutely love a video that goes into detail about colour choices. As a very novice painter I really struggle to tell what colours to use.
In some of your videos about the slapchop method, instead of using black, grey, and white for the initial dry brush stage you use different colours. It would be nice to have a good breakdown for which colours you should use, depending on what contrast paint you want to put on top. Also, should you dry brush multiple different colours for areas that will be painted with different coloured contrast paints?
Building on this further, you could explain how you decide what colours you use for highlights, and what colour washes you use, based on the main colour of the model.
Finally, I’d also like an explanation on mixing paints. How do you choose which paints to mix to get the right colour? And how do you know how much to thin a paint to get the right colour?
I know that the answer to a lot of this is trial and error, but it can be quite pricey to buy lots of paints, not really knowing which ones would be used.
Either way, love all of the videos. You break down these complex techniques really nicely.
I really like how you positioned the skeleton with one shoulder forward as a soldier with a large shield would be positioned in combat, as opposed to facing chest forward and off balance. Kudos! Thanks for posting.
I enjoy that the shield took like 4x longer to do than the whole rest of the mini. It looks fantastic but would hate to have to do it 100+ times, though I guess you would get really good at it by the end.
You absolutely would get faster, and doing them in 5s or something would also speed it up maybe 2x overall.
We also learned we could have aggressively stippled the purple rather than glazed, I think there's a very similar job doable in maybe 25% of the time. It's also nice to have one place like that on each mini to practise your highlights and placements, even if there is 100!
Bizarre for me to be saying this, but perfect timing with this one. Just what I needed. Oh and Ffffff
Interesting, im planning on doing my shield gradients the other way around - lighter at bottom and darker at the top, as i think at the angle ive posed they will catch more light at the bottom of the shields - like vehicle panels and capes.
Either can work :). I picked this way to help my dust, and because I wanted to finish the trim first
You can get a lighter highlight on a dark base coat if you put more light layers, or if you go lighter with your highlight... it's not like an absolute thing that a dark base coat can't produce a light highlight :) Enjoyed it, thanks for posting!
I'm just imagining the thought process behind the paint choice.
"Mmm I'm painting a horde of skeletons, what contest should I use?"
Sees skeleton horde
"PERFECT!"
Got to respect some clear naming in the gaming industry!
Awesome tip using multiple contact points for the arms. Thanks
Fantastic paint job and showing how easy it can be to achieve such a great result. I have one tiny issue and it might just be me but it feels like the sound on the video was exceptionally loud at stages (popping open the paint pots, heavy breathing etc) almost like it was to lure in asmr folk XD
You are spot on, I am adjusting to new equipment, let us know if you notice the improvements in our next video, it should be noticeable:)
I got a couple boxes of tomb guard and got all the extra kopesh swords on my cavalry and normal skeleton troops so they look way more egyptian than the standard ones. Highly recommended if you're going with the halberd guard and the other arms would go to waste anyway.
I can't wait to get my hands on my first Old World set
Why the black primer and brown base coat? Would it be quicker to just start from the white? Generally curious!
I like the *finish* of chaos black, I much prefer starting satin (keeps stuff smooth, aiding non-chalky drybrushing), unfortunately there's not really a user-friendly non-matte white spray can that I've found yet :)
Every time I try acrylic over plastic without a primer first it rubs off...tried with stuff like molotow one4all and GW acrylics. How did you manage to get the first doombull/world bearers red base coat to adhere properly? Or did the white scar zenithal protect it?
I dusted chaos Black (or any primer) lightly first, even a light one works wonders
@@ArtisOpus ah brilliant thanks!
Learned so much from this channel honestly, ordered my first series D the other day - decided it was time to upgrade from my battered old makeup brush 🤣
What glue do you use? Lots of super glues haze the surrounding area
This is plastic glue :). Revell contacta for me!
Great video as always, I do have a minor critique. Not sure if you changed cameras or settings, but it seemed your focus is searching more than usual, made some parts hard on the old eyes.
That old school red wants me to crack open the 90’s orks
How do you keep your sleeves clean? I would have ruined a sweater like that in an instant.
My favourite check shirt got red+browned on the right cuff the other day, and I recently chucked a jumper for the same reason :D
Hi! As an old returning miniature painter, a lot has changed since i last was involved in the hobby! What is the purpose of sponge in glass vial, in the upper left corner of your painting palette? Cheers and thanks for the great videos!
I don't know if I would like it more if a whole squad of skellies should take the same shield or all having different coloured ones. In both cases the shields really do pop and don't make the minis feel that old :)
fffff fffff fffffffantastic!
Ffffank you :)
Nicely done!
The camera really didn't like the first part with the skeleton... 😢
Would it be possible to put the notifications to 12 hours or something again? These 30 min ones makes it impossible to catch them live. 😢
We don't get a say on the notifications unfortunately, we will be doing our best to leave a good window though, which should increase the likelihood.
I am also adjusting to new technology, so we should be clearer with audio and video in the next :)
Ah that's annoying. @@ArtisOpus
I'll just have to try and be online more. (-:
Hello, I have an idea for a video. I have series D, series M and series N. I know when to use series D, but I’m not sure when to use series M or series N. Can you make a video breaking down when we should be using which series? Unless you already have a video about this and just I can’t find it.
Something to be said about the old skeletons and those chunky spears !
Characterful, not 'outdated'!
I prefer the older models as some of the newer ones have TOO MUCH detail. So much detail that their silhouette is just a jumbled mass of spikes and wispy bits that will probably snap off in no time.
You and me both dude, I think we peaked around island of blood honestly. New methods but more disciplined sculpting
So just to confirm, you didn't prime it before the basecoat of doombull Brown?
I did, chaos Black always, a dusting is fine 👌
@@ArtisOpus ahhhh great, I'm gonna try this 👍😅
Thank you Byron. When you refer to "Basecoat", is that your Primer? or is the "Basecoat" on top of the Primer?
That delicacy persists to the latest skeletons too... that deathrattle banner bearer is unbearable!
I hated skeletons - some of the first minis I ever painted, before I knew anything at all as an 11 year old (why does painting them white and inking them black not work?). This tutorial almost makes me want to paint skellies again.
Press Fffffffff to pay respects ;)
Ffffffff… wait for it… antastic
gave me a headache trying to watch the blurry camera
Check the next video we drop, I am adjusting to new equipment and it should be much better for both audio and video
Two points - this does not seem like speed painting. If you spent 17 minutes (even with the film sped up in several areas) to complete just one, imagine the time spent to complete 60+. Secondly, the end result (at the 17:14 minute mark) looked very chalky. I am still not convinced that dry-brushing gives good results.
what i dont understand is why people buys 20 years old model to "full price" just bc they add some new modells in the box.
People would buy litteral shit if you make them think it is great value. Look at crypto pyramid.
Psinting 60 skellies seems very boring
Those old school skeleton mould lines! yikes..
Ffffhhhhhh Ffffffff😂
Fffffffff!
Fffffff
Ffffffffffff
the limiter on your voice is going way to hard.