Definitely a good reason to have a beater bike permanently on the trainer. I have a bike built up from spare parts. So it never sees the road. But I appreciate a solution for everyone. Great vids , keep 'em coming !
I didn't even know this was a thing until recently. Had a friend actually have his bars snap mid ride. Lots of saddle time, but the bars were less then a year old. Another guy I know had major build up in his shifters. Crazy!
Nice bell baby! Interesting video Lama. I cover my bars with a hand towel when on the trainer, with another one hanging across the top tube to stop the corruption going down into the bottom bracket. It looks to me like that "white stuff" was actually Himalayan Lama salt and not aluminium oxide from the bars. Just the same, protecting the bars won't do any harm. The aviation industry uses some pretty good aluminium protecting goop, as you'd expect, but it's not as easy to get outside the industry. Some of it reputedly results in additional body parts being grown with continuous exposure, so maybe not the nicest stuff to be smearing over your hands. Personally I use lanolin based fluids to protect my machinery etc, it's safe and effective, though in that application you would probably end up smelling like you've just crutched a hundred sheep after each Zwift session! Rumour has it you'll also finish up with a dozen Kiwi blokes trying to hump your leg if you ride the bike down the road, but I don't know about that.
Once I went out to scope out a crit a week before the event in Hickory, NC. As I was running the course coming out of a down hill 90 degree turn into a steep ascent I pulled up on the bars and my right handlebar dissolved in half. Being obvious to the fact that my sweat could dissolve aluminum, I was astonished at what had happened at 30+ mph on my attack. Thankfully it was a straight line ascent and low traffic that day. so I didn't hit the deck. It stands out in my memory because of I was able to win that race in a solo break away while my Dad was watching. If I didn't have the fortune of checking out the race beforehand I might have well been in the hospital instead of the podium. Thank the LORD.
As long you don't go on rough tarmac, its nice. If you go on rough roads and with more then 35km/h it will ring constantly due to the vibration. Its annoying as hell...
OMG!!! Your OCD allowed you to LEAVE that "crusty old sticky bar tape" on there????? (5:28) Damn, I don't even have OCD, but I could never do that... heheheheeee....
do you think wearing gloves while cycling indoors would minimise corrosion? (and outdoors too for that matter?) I never ride without gloves, but I've seen the results of binning it without any too many times.
I'm scared as to what is under mine, 18000 Zwift k's same bar tape, Zwift only bike. Carbon bar's too, I need to do it, let me know if you want to see the un-raveling ;). Keep up the cracking job!!
A wax coating? The bar tape comes with a sticky center strip that I very much doubt will stick to wax. I prefer a clear varnish. Something like Bondall 300g Satin Monocel Gold Marine Grade Timber Varnish Aerosol from Bunnings is only $20. If you clean the bars with acetone prior to application it'll stick well enough and seal the anodized coating, and the bar tape will stick to it. I never really had a problem with bar corrosion in Melbourne, but here in the subtropics, sweat flows like a river.
I like doing a full wrap of electrical tape at least on the top half of the bars to help stop this. but the t-9 is a nice idea .also nice job sneaking in Ali Express on the tv
Pro question: if you had small hole(s) underneath the white corrosion, would you have swopped the handelbar? You could assume the structure is compromised and risking a snap on the road doesn’t look too appealing?
i wonder wether there really was corrosion (chemical reaction in the base metal forming aluminium oxides) or if it just was salt residues (like we get on our skin after long hot days in the saddle sweating). The first would meant the bars are damaged but if it's the latter, they're fine.
Hey Shane, I have a time trial this coming weekend and need some advice. It is a flat 7.7 mile, straight course (no turnaround). Do you have any tips on pacing, warmup, and prep ? Thanks.
Hey! the nail polisher is replaceable... but, wait... that seems to be Veronica's towel too! ... greasy irremovable stains, oh oh... hope you don't get into too much trouble, mate!!
which bar width do you run? i recently made a bikefit and the fitter said my bars are fine since they were about the same width (i think 44cm) as the distance from my left to right shoulder. whats your opinion on this matter?
Shane Miller I like some carbon bars for their flat tops but you can shape an alloy bar by packing them under the tape. Good for reducing fatigue and numbness issues that I have had with a plain round bar.
You can also find alloy bars with those same "flat top" shapes, or at least a good approximation. I ride an older 3T bar with a nice flattened section on top to help deal with some bad tendinitis in my wrists. (Seems like they don't make the ones I have anymore, but this is the closest I see: www.3tcycling.com/road/en/bike-components/handlebars/aeronova-pro/)
I've ridden on all surfaces this week in Perth with it... and jumping gutters (See latest video for that). No unwanted dings. The springs in this bell are stiff, not an issue at all.
I concur - Spurcycle makes a great bell - I bought on for my dream T bike - seems to be a little less expensive in North American, but if you want the best then even the local price is worth it
Look like someones advice to lubricate brake pads for less sound... 1 layer of strapping tape works perfect even better than electric tape - low elongation and residue free removal )
Again, look into the specific product. Boeshield T-9 was designed by Boeing Aviation as a corrosion inhibitor for aircraft components. "Sliding" shifters and bar tape is a non issue. Tighten them up normally, install them normally, as shown in this video, non issue.
After adding a layer of T9 between the bar and stem clamp could also cause slippage. Once corrion has started adding a corrosion inhibitor will not stop the corrosion, only complete removal of the corrosion is the way to go (if you have a bad tooth brushing it 3 times a day will not make it better). Thanks
Definitely a good reason to have a beater bike permanently on the trainer. I have a bike built up from spare parts. So it never sees the road. But I appreciate a solution for everyone. Great vids , keep 'em coming !
+Tony Kitching Cheers Tony. 👍🏼
I didn't even know this was a thing until recently. Had a friend actually have his bars snap mid ride. Lots of saddle time, but the bars were less then a year old. Another guy I know had major build up in his shifters. Crazy!
Have you checked how this worked out? Would love to see an update.
How about an update on how effective the T9 was?
7 years. Oh man. I miss your old giant bike
Great tinkering vid Shane, you make me chuckle quite often! 😄
Was there a follow up to this? How did the wax coating hold up?
great video! I love my little bell as well lol... I love using it during my crits.....
Nice bell baby!
Interesting video Lama. I cover my bars with a hand towel when on the trainer, with another one hanging across the top tube to stop the corruption going down into the bottom bracket.
It looks to me like that "white stuff" was actually Himalayan Lama salt and not aluminium oxide from the bars. Just the same, protecting the bars won't do any harm. The aviation industry uses some pretty good aluminium protecting goop, as you'd expect, but it's not as easy to get outside the industry. Some of it reputedly results in additional body parts being grown with continuous exposure, so maybe not the nicest stuff to be smearing over your hands. Personally I use lanolin based fluids to protect my machinery etc, it's safe and effective, though in that application you would probably end up smelling like you've just crutched a hundred sheep after each Zwift session! Rumour has it you'll also finish up with a dozen Kiwi blokes trying to hump your leg if you ride the bike down the road, but I don't know about that.
Like that little bell - genius design.
That looks like a bell named Oi made in Melbourne? We got one in a local shop about 13,000 km from Australia.
Once I went out to scope out a crit a week before the event in Hickory, NC. As I was running the course coming out of a down hill 90 degree turn into a steep ascent I pulled up on the bars and my right handlebar dissolved in half. Being obvious to the fact that my sweat could dissolve aluminum, I was astonished at what had happened at 30+ mph on my attack. Thankfully it was a straight line ascent and low traffic that day. so I didn't hit the deck.
It stands out in my memory because of I was able to win that race in a solo break away while my Dad was watching. If I didn't have the fortune of checking out the race beforehand I might have well been in the hospital instead of the podium. Thank the LORD.
How'd the Boeshield T-9 end up working for you?
Love the replay of the vid on the TV. Niiiiiiice
+wayne proud I'm glad you pointed that out! A little post edit learning with the software and it turned out looking nice. 👌🏼
great clean up on the bars...I'm not a fan of that bell, not nearly loud enough and just make sure cables don't touch the floating part...
Road (shared path) tests yesterday were fine. It has a good ding to it and people notice.
As long you don't go on rough tarmac, its nice. If you go on rough roads and with more then 35km/h it will ring constantly due to the vibration. Its annoying as hell...
The springs in this one are pretty strong. I went over some rough stuff today and it didn't ding.
OMG!!! Your OCD allowed you to LEAVE that "crusty old sticky bar tape" on there????? (5:28) Damn, I don't even have OCD, but I could never do that... heheheheeee....
+Paul Damian 😱😂
@@gplama Hey Shane! Any update on that project? Cheers!
Have you done a Tannus Tire review yet?
Link for the bell?
I might have overlooked it, but which bell is that. Cool design!
do you think wearing gloves while cycling indoors would minimise corrosion? (and outdoors too for that matter?) I never ride without gloves, but I've seen the results of binning it without any too many times.
that is a proper race bell
It's been over seven years - how did the t-9 work out? Do you still recommend it? Thanks!
I'm scared as to what is under mine, 18000 Zwift k's same bar tape, Zwift only bike. Carbon bar's too, I need to do it, let me know if you want to see the un-raveling ;). Keep up the cracking job!!
18k on the same bar tape.... damn! I'd look at the screws/bolts/levers/etc.
It seems to me like the white stuff was just dried off sweat, not really corrosion. Otherwise acetone wouldn't have "restored" it.
It's the beginning of the end.
5:57 _"It's put on the way I like it and it works just fine."_ *_Boom!_* Checkmate on the haterz. End of discussion.
This cute little video makes me wonder about the misanthrope who would give it a thumbs down. I mean really?
A wax coating? The bar tape comes with a sticky center strip that I very much doubt will stick to wax. I prefer a clear varnish. Something like Bondall 300g Satin Monocel Gold Marine Grade Timber Varnish Aerosol from Bunnings is only $20. If you clean the bars with acetone prior to application it'll stick well enough and seal the anodized coating, and the bar tape will stick to it. I never really had a problem with bar corrosion in Melbourne, but here in the subtropics, sweat flows like a river.
Bells are great when people actually acknowledge them.. Some people seem to be oblivious when they hear a bell.
I like doing a full wrap of electrical tape at least on the top half of the bars to help stop this. but the t-9 is a nice idea .also nice job sneaking in Ali Express on the tv
Pro question: if you had small hole(s) underneath the white corrosion, would you have swopped the handelbar? You could assume the structure is compromised and risking a snap on the road doesn’t look too appealing?
Yes
i wonder wether there really was corrosion (chemical reaction in the base metal forming aluminium oxides) or if it just was salt residues (like we get on our skin after long hot days in the saddle sweating). The first would meant the bars are damaged but if it's the latter, they're fine.
If left on there... see the photos in the first few seconds. It's all bad news.
Good tips but a lot of work in my opinion for an alloy bar that can be replaced for $50. Great video a usual
That's the beauty of alloy bars, cheap as chips! (almost). I'll be pre-treating new ones with T9 too.
Hey Shane...thoughts on bike fitting? Have you had one done in the past or just trial and error over the years?
This item does not ship to Brisbane, Australia. Please check other sellers who may ship internationally.....
Google is your best bet for local. Whack on site:.au to the end of your search for AU sites only.
So did the wax work?
Hey Shane, I have a time trial this coming weekend and need some advice. It is a flat 7.7 mile, straight course (no turnaround). Do you have any tips on pacing, warmup, and prep ? Thanks.
If it's an always on the trainer bike, just don't use bar tape, wear gloves instead. No bar tape == no sweat buildup :)
how did you figure out the correct position of handlebars/hoods? did you have markings on the bar?
By eye, and by feel, then small adjustments if/as required once out on the road.
Just removed my tape from my trainer bike. Insane how it was…
I like the bar tape, could you tell me which one you used? It looks like it provides good grip.
SupaCaz: amzn.to/2t4BK2d
Won't treating it with lube make it incredibly annoying with constant rewrapping of tape. Because it won't stick properly anymore?
No. The tape is locked on tight. The dry wax film/coating isn't an oil.
Do you think any wax lube would work, like Pedros Ice Wax?
I haven't looked into it. This stuff is specifically designed to be a corrosion inhibitor... so their site says. Boeing seem to be pretty reputable.
Shane Miller if it keeps planes from falling out of the sky, it's good enough for my handlebars
That bell seems to be set on 'mute'.
6 months? I gotta crash or disintegrate the bar tape before I'd even thinking about swapping.
Hey! the nail polisher is replaceable... but, wait... that seems to be Veronica's towel too! ... greasy irremovable stains, oh oh... hope you don't get into too much trouble, mate!!
+Fred Seigneur hahaha! Cheers! 😉
which bar width do you run? i recently made a bikefit and the fitter said my bars are fine since they were about the same width (i think 44cm) as the distance from my left to right shoulder. whats your opinion on this matter?
38cc. The Tarmac has 36cc. The shoulder thing is a standard 'gauge'... but it's not for everyone. I like narrow bars for a number of reasons.
Shane Miller going the Adam Hanson set up with the narrow bars. I reckon a few viewers would be interested in your bike setup and some tips about it
How's the headset? 😬
+Sam Edwards Seized. No steering on Zwift, so all good! 😂
reminds me of the dripping Alien blood in the alien trilogy
Good to see an alloy bar on a carbon bike, it's just safer.
I've always used alloy bars. Cheap, light, strong, replaceable after a crash. $70 vs $300.... I just can't justify carbon bars.
Shane Miller I like some carbon bars for their flat tops but you can shape an alloy bar by packing them under the tape. Good for reducing fatigue and numbness issues that I have had with a plain round bar.
You can also find alloy bars with those same "flat top" shapes, or at least a good approximation. I ride an older 3T bar with a nice flattened section on top to help deal with some bad tendinitis in my wrists. (Seems like they don't make the ones I have anymore, but this is the closest I see: www.3tcycling.com/road/en/bike-components/handlebars/aeronova-pro/)
So that's why they are rusting 🤔
Is that why its all rusted
a head sweat band works for me. dont drip a drop.
Ooo furniture wax... Oh, I have some turtle wax. Some vinegar should serve well too.
when u are on a bumpy hi speed decent u will find that bell really annoying.
I've ridden on all surfaces this week in Perth with it... and jumping gutters (See latest video for that). No unwanted dings. The springs in this bell are stiff, not an issue at all.
Lucky me I have a Teenager at Home for the nail polish remover 😂
Is that we all see in those situations, not corosion, rather minerals off dryed swet.
...which is corrosive. See here for the extreme version: www.reddit.com/r/WTF/comments/4d8pqo/customers_sweat_build_up_was_so_corrosive_that/
I have old tube wraped tide and to make it brity economic corktape on top off that.
Cruel sea.
White powder is salt from you sweat!
Yep, which then leads to the corrosion in those spots. I should have been clearer in the video.
The non-Oi sounds as crappy as the real one. Spurway is the right way.
Savage. What's Spurway?
Oops. Spurcycle. Expensive, but great bells and other doodads: commutercycles.com.au/shop/spurcycle-bell/
I concur - Spurcycle makes a great bell - I bought on for my dream T bike - seems to be a little less expensive in North American, but if you want the best then even the local price is worth it
Look like someones advice to lubricate brake pads for less sound... 1 layer of strapping tape works perfect even better than electric tape - low elongation and residue free removal )
+Dil Vastak Research what I used and what it does. I have no reason to bullshit people, it isn't what I'm here for.
I just want to say that wax or lube isn't best solution - shifters can slide and bar tape too.
Again, look into the specific product. Boeshield T-9 was designed by Boeing Aviation as a corrosion inhibitor for aircraft components. "Sliding" shifters and bar tape is a non issue. Tighten them up normally, install them normally, as shown in this video, non issue.
After adding a layer of T9 between the bar and stem clamp could also cause slippage. Once corrion has started adding a corrosion inhibitor will not stop the corrosion, only complete removal of the corrosion is the way to go (if you have a bad tooth brushing it 3 times a day will not make it better). Thanks