Some items that would help: What temper/hardness was the 5005 aluminum? What was the thickness of the material?? A third method of prepping the aluminum is the squiggling of the area to be annealed with a magic marker type pen, (does not have to be totally covered, but ample) and burn that off. There is subjectivity to the soot method (how heavy a soot layer did you put on), and not having used the soap method is there a heavy/light factor involved? I think the magic marker method might be the least subjective. Next thought is: what do 'you' do when a crack starts forming? Nice work mate.
Thanks mate. I’m not sure of the temper the 5005 was. I just picked it up at the local metal shop so I guess a commercial grade. It is 0.8mm or 0.030” thick. I don’t have the set up to do the soot option for annealing and the soap one works well enough for what I’m doing. I haven’t tried the marker pen trick. You can see how the soap doesn’t cover the material like the marker would but still gives enough coverage to let you know what’s going on. What do I do when a crack starts?….sometimes cry! Sometimes I’m lucky enough to trim it out and still have enough of the part left to do it’s thing. Sometimes if I catch it early enough I can file the crack out. I tend to keep a close eye on the stretched edge. And usually dress it to keep it smooth as I’m forming. Fun huh!
I was taught to mark the area with a pen and heat till the pen marks went away. Similar idea. Surprised you didn't put a radius on your form block. I wonder about, but don't know, about quenching in water vs air cooling.
Yep, the pen mark is basically the same idea. There is a radius in the form block, after using it a few times it’s probably about a 5/32” radius now. Also forming without a backing plate lets the piece flex an raise a little while forming. I just needed to work it a little afterwards to get it flat. I’ve always quenched in water to anneal. Maybe I shouldn’t. I remember air cooling during the age hardening process. 10 or 11 hours at 190deg Celsius, then cool to room temperature
Thanks Don. Perfect tutorial.
Great info. Thanks, Don!
I have not been proficient at annealing.... Not done LEARNING yet!! Thank You!!!
Cheers mate, I’m still learning too
Its fascinating to watch your expertise. Please keep posting and teaching
Thanks mate. I do enjoy telling stories as much as bashing metal
That’s amazing!!! You are an artist. I wish I had more patience.
Thanks mate.
Amazing work, thank you again for showing your work, very inspirational
Thanks mate
Great video as normal.
Some items that would help: What temper/hardness was the 5005 aluminum? What was the thickness of the material?? A third method of prepping the aluminum is the squiggling of the area to be annealed with a magic marker type pen, (does not have to be totally covered, but ample) and burn that off. There is subjectivity to the soot method (how heavy a soot layer did you put on), and not having used the soap method is there a heavy/light factor involved? I think the magic marker method might be the least subjective.
Next thought is: what do 'you' do when a crack starts forming? Nice work mate.
Thanks mate. I’m not sure of the temper the 5005 was. I just picked it up at the local metal shop so I guess a commercial grade. It is 0.8mm or 0.030” thick. I don’t have the set up to do the soot option for annealing and the soap one works well enough for what I’m doing. I haven’t tried the marker pen trick. You can see how the soap doesn’t cover the material like the marker would but still gives enough coverage to let you know what’s going on. What do I do when a crack starts?….sometimes cry! Sometimes I’m lucky enough to trim it out and still have enough of the part left to do it’s thing. Sometimes if I catch it early enough I can file the crack out. I tend to keep a close eye on the stretched edge. And usually dress it to keep it smooth as I’m forming. Fun huh!
Really like your videos. Quenching in water makes it back hard again. You should let it just air cool. I think you will find it even easier to work.
Cheers mate, I’ll give it a go. I could feel it was softer after I quenched. Perhaps it was the difference between work hardened and normal temper
I was taught to mark the area with a pen and heat till the pen marks went away. Similar idea. Surprised you didn't put a radius on your form block. I wonder about, but don't know, about quenching in water vs air cooling.
Yep, the pen mark is basically the same idea. There is a radius in the form block, after using it a few times it’s probably about a 5/32” radius now. Also forming without a backing plate lets the piece flex an raise a little while forming. I just needed to work it a little afterwards to get it flat. I’ve always quenched in water to anneal. Maybe I shouldn’t. I remember air cooling during the age hardening process. 10 or 11 hours at 190deg Celsius, then cool to room temperature
Thanks for sharing!