Sorry for the long delay in getting this out gang, it's been a busy few months for me. But I'm back and feeling somewhat refreshed. I hope you enjoy the video m8s!
@paulmcwilliams1709 I don't know what part of the planet you reside but I'm in England and its raining again. Anyroadup, I'm new to this channel but saw your love for Tamiya models and agree. But there is a fellow from the U.S. who won't build another Tam. kit because they're too easy! No filling and sanding or scratch building, Where's the fun in that, he said!!! He ought to try a Lindberg and hide all his weapons! Hope you're well.
I've just caught up with your channel and having this kit in my stash I had to watch. I'm an ageing resumer but want to give it my best shot.I'm getting there (I think). The days are gone when as a kid too many years ago the Airfix figure of Julius Caesar had a red gloss cloak, groan. Wonderful finish to this kit sir, I can only hope and remember more haste less speed. Is there a video for the figure and setting, I did look but it isn't beyond the realms of possibility that this old codger kept missing it. Respect from England.
@@normansmith8184 thanks m8! No video for the figure yet. Hopefully I can get to that eventually. I do however have several videos on my channel dedicated to figure modelling and painting. Check out the other content I’m sure you’ll learn a thing or two.
Fantastic looking Spitfire. Lots of tips and techniques that are new to me in this one, I'm going to try some of them out. And my favourite part of modelling? Pushing tanks around my bench making engine and gun noises... Great video thanks for sharing, and looking forward to next part.
Great video Packed full of Awesome Techniques...Sprue Goo...lol - love it and didn't even realize you could still even get Silly Putty..Wow..throwback!!
I started using the AK stuff mid summer. The bloody stuff sags when it gets warm, it's like the bloody quatermas experiment. The thing from the modellers bench 😳😱👻😂
Nice work, but that a/c shouldn’t have the IFF cheese slicer antennas leading from the horizontal stabs to the fuselage. That didn’t exist when that airplane was flying in those markings.
Really liked this video, even though I do not do serious aircraft, just the cartoon "Deals" kind. Hope to use that silly putty masking tech. on my "Spitsfire". Kind of ironic that with so many companies producing finishing products for scale models that one of the oldest paints being tube "OILS", come through for the final enhancement. Cheers
Ok. Back into modelling after 25 years. Most comprehensive guide I have seen yet on weathering, amazing, learned a lot. I am exe AAC so not the biggest Spitfire fan, but it's wrong and rude not to have one so this has been on the list (I am bashing very old donated kits that can only be improved...even by me😳😁). On request, could you list basic oil colours for weathering as a starter. I am guessing black, dark grey, burnt sienna, ochre? Yea, I get dry brushing, filters make sense so more watching needed. Oh, and who reads instructions? 😂. Love it. Many thanks. CBA
Thanks, m8! Yes everyone needs at least 1 Spit in the collection. Oil colours I use a lot are Burnt Umber, Burnt Sienna, Asphaltum, Cad Yellow, Cad red, Paynes Grey, Titanium white, Prussian Blue, Prussian Green and black occasionally.
Thanks chap. Appreciated. I am not anti Spitfire, it's just that over here, the Army started it, and at one point were the biggest help operators in europe, and yet, at shows and displays folk always thought we were the RAF😢. Thanks again. I will look into filters, dovetails in with photography
Good stuff, my friend. Splendid job on the paint and weathering. Good balance. Looking forward to the figure! I have this kit ready to go for my next build, and I am using the same scheme. However, I got a mask set for the markings, so wish me luck!
Amazing video! Great explanation, detail and result 👏 how much time do you have after applying the hairspray to do the chipping? Or are you not against the clock with this method? I've used chipping medium before (only once) and been told the window to work in is around 15 minutes, and after that everything has 'set' and you wont be able to chip.
Thanks a lot! As far as chipping goes it really depends on the chipping medium and paint you use. If you use a true acrylic paint such as Vallejo for example, it’ll take less time for the water to penetrate to the chipping medium. If you use Tamiya paint for example it’s sort of an acrylic/lacquer hybrid which you’ll need to be much more aggressive to chip through. To be honest it’s all experimentation, trial and error. I’ve had great results and poor results there’s really no magic formula for it. Thanks again for watching and consider subscribing if you haven’t already. Cheers!🙂
Both have they're place but "Sprue goo" is essentially liquid plastic so it feathers into the plastic model a little better. I also use CA glue from time to time especially for getting rid of ghost seams..
Yea, goo makes huge sense. Some of the filler I have been using can be cleaned with water so you cannot wet sand. Also some fillers don't feather that well leaving an edge. Hadn't thought of mr surfacer for gap filling fine cracks....doh
Awesome video. Perfect paint! The Russian Green filter is Enamel or Oil (part 17:30)? Do you have the reference for the product used? Thank you for your tutorial. All the best, Fernando from Brazil
Did you cut the decals with a knife on the panel lines? That part was kinda confusing. I have this kit too and wanna build it but am not sure on the decals/panel lines, I would hate for that detail to get lost
Nice video and thanks for the tips! I am trying to apply the pin wash on a 1/72 model and I am trying different ways but I find so difficult to not end up with a messy panel especially after trying to clean. How long should I wait for the oil paint wash to dry before cleaning it? When I use ear cleaners or brush to clean the paint leaves the lines and ends up smudged on the wings 😢 maybe I need a bigger model to learn this easier perhaps?
Your welcome. I usually use a hairdryer to dry the wash then remove the excess right away. I like to use a blue shop towel to remove the excess. It’ll remove the wash without leaving residue behind.
You can but I prefer Alclad 2 Aqua Gloss clear "ALC 600". I find I get better results than with X22. If you can't get the Alclad stuff make sure you thin the X22 with either Mr Leveling thinner 400 or the Tamiya Lacquer thinner "retarder type" with the orange cap which is similar to the MLT. Hope that "clears" 😉 things up. Cheers!
@@SmallSoldier tamiya x20A thinner not good for this ? I only have this type of thinner and in online people say its ok cause its not a enamel paint so you dont need laquer thinner
Great work. I had no idea they painted the bottom half white/half black, but just read they did until 1940. How could that have been a good idea for a military plane?! For the pilots' camouflage safety, thank God they went to the sky color after.
Well like anything I would do some tests if you can before trying it on your model, especially if you’re not familiar with the product. It really depends on which companies decals your using. Some decals work great with Micro Sol others are thicker and tougher which makes them difficult to conform so I like to use Solvaset for those. Be careful as some decal solutions will make the decal prints run or discolour. I hope this helps with your decisions.🙂🙌🏻
@@OdysseyAviation I’ve used mark fit and it’ll work. You may need something a bit stronger if it’s being stubborn like micro soul. Good luck I hope your build goes well. 🙂🙌🏻
@@siipy You can check me out on Instagram or Facebook. I have photos of the build on there. You should also be able to see the way the wing’s connect in the video.
Sorry for the long delay in getting this out gang, it's been a busy few months for me. But I'm back and feeling somewhat refreshed. I hope you enjoy the video m8s!
Those gloves fit so well, I thought your hands were just covered in black primer for a second 😂
Silly putty is amazing for camo, masking.
Gotta love Tamiya kits
Yep!
I love Tamiya models! I've never had a bad build with any model I bought from them. I like their tank models too.
Yep, can't go wrong with Tamiya.
@paulmcwilliams1709 I don't know what part of the planet you reside but I'm in England and its raining again. Anyroadup, I'm new to this channel but saw your love for Tamiya models and agree. But there is a fellow from the U.S. who won't build another Tam. kit because they're too easy! No filling and sanding or scratch building, Where's the fun in that, he said!!! He ought to try a Lindberg and hide all his weapons! Hope you're well.
凄いリアルですね！
Not sure how to reply, I don’t speak that language. Thanks I guess.
Joli travail .beau résultat👍👍👍👍
🙌🍻🙂
I've just caught up with your channel and having this kit in my stash I had to watch. I'm an ageing resumer but want to give it my best shot.I'm getting there (I think). The days are gone when as a kid too many years ago the Airfix figure of Julius Caesar had a red gloss cloak, groan. Wonderful finish to this kit sir, I can only hope and remember more haste less speed. Is there a video for the figure and setting, I did look but it isn't beyond the realms of possibility that this old codger kept missing it. Respect from England.
@@normansmith8184 thanks m8! No video for the figure yet. Hopefully I can get to that eventually. I do however have several videos on my channel dedicated to figure modelling and painting. Check out the other content I’m sure you’ll learn a thing or two.
@SmallSoldier Ah, bless you sir. Thanks for the reply and invaluable info. Guess what I'll be doing today! Thanks again and all the best.
Looks amazing
Thanks!🙂
Looks amazing mate
Thanks m8!🍻🙂
Fantastic looking Spitfire.
Lots of tips and techniques that are new to me in this one, I'm going to try some of them out.
And my favourite part of modelling? Pushing tanks around my bench making engine and gun noises...
Great video thanks for sharing, and looking forward to next part.
Thanks, my friend! Pew Pew!😆
G’day Scott, I just wanted to say that I really enjoyed the video.
It’s no wonder that the guys at the PPP, love the videos as well.
Thanks a lot Ray... I appreciate your kind words. These videos are definitely a labour of love and comments like this make it all worth while. Cheers.
I am so glad I stumbled onto your channel! I am currently starting this Spit out......what great technique and execution. Well done!
Thanks Andy! Welcome aboard.🙂
Great video Packed full of Awesome Techniques...Sprue Goo...lol - love it and didn't even realize you could still even get Silly Putty..Wow..throwback!!
Thanks, Jeff! Yes, I see Silly Putty everywhere I go.
I started using the AK stuff mid summer. The bloody stuff sags when it gets warm, it's like the bloody quatermas experiment. The thing from the modellers bench 😳😱👻😂
@@Flingwing24 😯
Brilliant mate, worth the wait 👍😆
Thanks, Tim! I appreciate your patience and and glad you enjoyed it. Cheers.
Excellent, such great techniques 😀
Thank you! Cheers!
As always, an incredible job, with a brutal result, thanks for sharing.👌🏻😀
Thanks sir!
Nice work, but that a/c shouldn’t have the IFF cheese slicer antennas leading from the horizontal stabs to the fuselage. That didn’t exist when that airplane was flying in those markings.
Thanks, yes I've been informed about that. It took me a good amount of time to put those on and I can't bring myself to remove them.
Really liked this video, even though I do not do serious aircraft, just the cartoon "Deals" kind. Hope to use that silly putty masking tech. on my "Spitsfire". Kind of ironic that with so many companies producing finishing products for scale models that one of the oldest paints being tube "OILS", come through for the final enhancement. Cheers
Thanks, Gordon! Yes, I feel old-school products don't get enough love and I use them as much as I can. Silly Putty is the BOMB!
Ok. Back into modelling after 25 years. Most comprehensive guide I have seen yet on weathering, amazing, learned a lot. I am exe AAC so not the biggest Spitfire fan, but it's wrong and rude not to have one so this has been on the list (I am bashing very old donated kits that can only be improved...even by me😳😁). On request, could you list basic oil colours for weathering as a starter. I am guessing black, dark grey, burnt sienna, ochre? Yea, I get dry brushing, filters make sense so more watching needed. Oh, and who reads instructions? 😂. Love it. Many thanks. CBA
Thanks, m8! Yes everyone needs at least 1 Spit in the collection. Oil colours I use a lot are Burnt Umber, Burnt Sienna, Asphaltum, Cad Yellow, Cad red, Paynes Grey, Titanium white, Prussian Blue, Prussian Green and black occasionally.
Thanks chap. Appreciated. I am not anti Spitfire, it's just that over here, the Army started it, and at one point were the biggest help operators in europe, and yet, at shows and displays folk always thought we were the RAF😢. Thanks again. I will look into filters, dovetails in with photography
Apologies. Forgot to Ask Scott. Do you seal in filters and oil weathering or would you do it all post Matt lacquer etc?
@@Flingwing24 😂 I’m sure over there it’s all about the Spitfire and nothing else.
@@Flingwing24 the only time I use clear coats are to hide decal film or if something needs to be more Matt. Most of the time I don’t use sealers.
Good stuff, my friend. Splendid job on the paint and weathering. Good balance. Looking forward to the figure! I have this kit ready to go for my next build, and I am using the same scheme. However, I got a mask set for the markings, so wish me luck!
Thanks, Brett. Yeah, good forethought on the masks. It'll make your painting a more pleasant experience.
Amazing video! Great explanation, detail and result 👏 how much time do you have after applying the hairspray to do the chipping? Or are you not against the clock with this method? I've used chipping medium before (only once) and been told the window to work in is around 15 minutes, and after that everything has 'set' and you wont be able to chip.
Thanks a lot! As far as chipping goes it really depends on the chipping medium and paint you use. If you use a true acrylic paint such as Vallejo for example, it’ll take less time for the water to penetrate to the chipping medium. If you use Tamiya paint for example it’s sort of an acrylic/lacquer hybrid which you’ll need to be much more aggressive to chip through. To be honest it’s all experimentation, trial and error. I’ve had great results and poor results there’s really no magic formula for it. Thanks again for watching and consider subscribing if you haven’t already. Cheers!🙂
@SmallSoldier thanks a lot for the quick reply. And subbed!
Of course... no problem. I appreciate your support. 🙂@@ChristopheW88
Good job! Wood propeller dude, I guess.
Thanks, no these props were metal. The early Spits had the 2 blade wooden Watts prop.
Great video! Question: Can the Silly Putty be reused after painting on it? Thanks!
Yes, it can. It'll change colour slightly but works the same over and over again. Thanks.
would you rather recommend liquid putty for filling gaps, or diluted plastic goo?
nice video btw, really pleasant to watch.!
Both have they're place but "Sprue goo" is essentially liquid plastic so it feathers into the plastic model a little better. I also use CA glue from time to time especially for getting rid of ghost seams..
Yea, goo makes huge sense. Some of the filler I have been using can be cleaned with water so you cannot wet sand. Also some fillers don't feather that well leaving an edge. Hadn't thought of mr surfacer for gap filling fine cracks....doh
Awesome video. Perfect paint! The Russian Green filter is Enamel or Oil (part 17:30)? Do you have the reference for the product used? Thank you for your tutorial. All the best, Fernando from Brazil
Thanks! It's called Prussian Green and it's a Winsor Newton oil colour. Thanks for your question. Cheers!
Thank you for your reply. Best, Fernando
Banked. The joys of acrylics being nice and tough
Did you cut the decals with a knife on the panel lines? That part was kinda confusing. I have this kit too and wanna build it but am not sure on the decals/panel lines, I would hate for that detail to get lost
@@blinkachu5275 Yes I did cut them. I think they look more natural that way.
@@SmallSoldier Thanks!
Nice video and thanks for the tips!
I am trying to apply the pin wash on a 1/72 model and I am trying different ways but I find so difficult to not end up with a messy panel especially after trying to clean.
How long should I wait for the oil paint wash to dry before cleaning it? When I use ear cleaners or brush to clean the paint leaves the lines and ends up smudged on the wings 😢 maybe I need a bigger model to learn this easier perhaps?
Your welcome. I usually use a hairdryer to dry the wash then remove the excess right away. I like to use a blue shop towel to remove the excess. It’ll remove the wash without leaving residue behind.
Great build, looks like a lot of fun trying all those techniques. How is the Hood build coming along?
Thanks, Callum. Starting to work on the Hood again. It's just a slow go.
Can you reuse the silly puffy or is it single per model build?
Yes, I do all the time and it won't leave residue behind on the paint work.
Do you just throw in sprew bits into glue and let it melt down the parts?
Yes, exactly. I try and use the same sprue as the model I'm building as it'll sand easier because it's the same plastic composition.
Should I apply x22 gloss before applying decals ?
You can but I prefer Alclad 2 Aqua Gloss clear "ALC 600". I find I get better results than with X22. If you can't get the Alclad stuff make sure you thin the X22 with either Mr Leveling thinner 400 or the Tamiya Lacquer thinner "retarder type" with the orange cap which is similar to the MLT. Hope that "clears" 😉 things up. Cheers!
@@SmallSoldier tamiya x20A thinner not good for this ?
I only have this type of thinner and in online people say its ok cause its not a enamel paint so you dont need laquer thinner
@@OdysseyAviation it’s not great tbh. If you can get the Tamiya orange cap it’ll work best.
Great work. I had no idea they painted the bottom half white/half black, but just read they did until 1940. How could that have been a good idea for a military plane?! For the pilots' camouflage safety, thank God they went to the sky color after.
Thanks. Yes it does seem odd that they chose such a prominent combination.
What brand sand paper are you using for the wet sanding?
Do you have the time stamp for that part of the video so I can take a look? It's been so long I can't remember.
12:50 I hear you Michael Rosen
NICE!
If I use only Mark Fit strong will it do work for decals ?
Well like anything I would do some tests if you can before trying it on your model, especially if you’re not familiar with the product. It really depends on which companies decals your using. Some decals work great with Micro Sol others are thicker and tougher which makes them difficult to conform so I like to use Solvaset for those. Be careful as some decal solutions will make the decal prints run or discolour. I hope this helps with your decisions.🙂🙌🏻
@@SmallSoldier well the spitfire from Tamiya will be my first build and I have some mark fit strong with it
@@OdysseyAviation I’ve used mark fit and it’ll work. You may need something a bit stronger if it’s being stubborn like micro soul. Good luck I hope your build goes well. 🙂🙌🏻
I also have other question . Do you think 17mL of dark green RAF color and 17mL of Brown RAF color will be enought for this build ?
I have MarkFit strong from Tamiya
Just a comment for the algorithm
Thanks my friend!
Nice work! I’m an armor guy but that is a splendid bird guy made there!
@@jamesvazquez2491 Thank you, James.
No cheese wire antenna on this aircraft.
I know that… I said it in the video.
Sounds odd. At the frequency they worked on back then a long wire antenna would be normal. Why the mast? Strange🙂
Lol "dry brushing is still a thing"
😂😂😉
Uuurghh the wing didn't go on properly for me
Elaborate... maybe I can tell you why.
@@SmallSoldier yes please
@@SmallSoldier maybe I can add you in some way to send a picture
@@siipy You can check me out on Instagram or Facebook. I have photos of the build on there. You should also be able to see the way the wing’s connect in the video.
@@SmallSoldier never mind I think a bit of sanding and filing will fix
What company is that figure from? It looks great. Great video by the way, you should have way more subscribers - I've subbed.
Thanks m8! If I had a dollar for every time I’ve had someone tell me that… well, I’d be doing this full time. Thanks for your sub.Cheers!🙂
@@SmallSoldier No worries. As for that pilot figure, what is the brand and where did you get it?