Over 65 years ago when I commenced my six year apprentice with the British Royal Navy, the expression on my face was similar to yours when you were about to start "your favourite part" of cutting with a hacksaw. We used steel to make our own tools and my instructor insisted on clamping the workpiece with wood packing all along the length of cut and putting a cloth over the free end to stop it vibrating and damp the noise and never to hold the hacksaw with two hands on one end but use one hand on either end of the saw to guide it continuously and you will not believe this, but he made me lift the saw on the return path as he said that the sliding it back on the workpiece would blunt the teeth. Seeing your hacksaw cutting action, I must admit, in my instructor's absence, I used your method including the length of stroke as indicated by the paint removal on your saw shown in this video. Once I broke a half inch Whitworth taps in the hreaded end of a small steel vice I was making and the instructor made me start all over again. In his absence I went to the welding shop , filled the hole with welding and threaded the other end of the U shaped vice. My instructor never noticed and in fact he congratulated me for the accuracy of my fitting of the other parts. Our hardest test piece was manually fitting an H shaped part in a flat -plate made of the same material as the H part. The test included fitting the H then rotating it by 180 degrees keeping the same side as entry and fitting it again , then changing the sides and repeat the test, with all gaps being accurate to a thousand of an inch, as we used the imperial measurement. Once when I asked why the imperial measurements were chosen , the British instructor told me that is because the number 12 can be divided my many numbers where the answer is a single digit!!!! God bless the British for their logic!!
+John Bouttell Yeah, I've been using steel wool on a toothpick scraping away without complaining for 23 years! I'm soon through with my first cut and it feels great!
Great project. I love the way you used the CNC to build a pattern right in the material to finish up with the flush-trim bit. Great idea and implementation.
+Matthias Wandel Not only in Germany. We had inches in Sweden in the old days but nothing new is made with inches. Is it the Great Britain countries that still hang on to inches anymore?
I have a kress spindle and they are really well made. The bushes was hard to find online but are fairly easy to fit so dont send the spindle away, just do it yourself.
Wonderful conversation! And well done too. I think you might want to add gussets connecting acetal plate to AL plate to provide greater rigidity to assembly. Otherwise, you are asking threaded plastic to absorb lateral forces which will eventually cause system sloppiness.
+Justin Bell Yep... I do it all the time. I have even used used a router, though it does tend to clog the bit. No issues with using a table saw, though. He probably just didn't have the right kind of blade.
Another great video. Just a word of warning, a plastic mount won't be rigid enough for heavy cuts in harder materials. I don't believe you do such cutting (yet!) so it's not a problem. I've got a similar mount but made from aluminium and that is still not stiff enough. Pressure from the cutting head will try to induce X/Y rotation on the pivot that is your clamp. If it does rotate even slightly, it will bite harder and chatter, maybe even stall. I damped the radial stress by making a support for the upper part of the router body too. With this setup I am able to cut aluminium and even steel on my router.
I know this is old as hell but an easy way to get that spindle more rigid is to add an auxiliary support retaining structure for the router. You've got got radial and (a bit of) torsional support, but no axial thrust. Making another bracket under the exhaust ports ~200 mm up is a cheap upgrade
@Marius you will find that if you have dedicated cutting tools for Aluminum that have never been used on steel or other materials they will cut the aluminum much better than a tool that has been used to cut steel or other material even the shortest distance. This is also true for Brass. If you test this and find it to be true for yourself you may want to (when affordable) purchase a dedicated (for aluminum) (for brass) set of hack saw blades, drill bits, end mills and any other cutting blades that you will use with any frequency. - - - I hope this helps you and I wish you the best. If you get a chance, please let me know if it works better for you. I hope this helps you and I wish you the best from Houston, Texas, U.S.A.
Hey Marius, I really enjoy watching your movies, they are really inspiring and fun and have great content! :) A suggestion, when you drill in aluminum, use isopropyl alcohol as a cutting fluid, it will provide for a cleaner cut and also preserve the cutting edge of your drill bit for longer. And for sawing off the aluminium, if you have a power jigsaw and a finetoothed blade, it will cut right throug it. Otherwise you should be able to cut aluminium with most circular saw bladeswith carbide tips :)
Never had a problem with my Kress, but the brushes have finally worn out (after several years) - I should have bought a spare set. Had to wait for new ones to arrive
for cutting aluminum I use an angle grinder with a diamond blade, used for stone and tile, other blades can clog up with hot shavings. I also hate using a hacksaw, powertools ftw... :)
Nice job, I like the way you managed your upgrade. I notice your wooden clamps. I have been wooden clamps too. It is always nice to use something you can make yourself. Best of luck to you. Lee Noring
Very good, I was tempted by this spindle too but couldn't really find it for a reasonable price. Having something which doesn't blow air down like a router helps the dust not throwing all over the place.
Very nice video and a useful upgrade of your X Carve! But I think weak point of your mount is the clamp made from HDPE. All plastics have a tendency to flow under pressure (and temperature!). Especially HDPE has a high tendency to flow. If you can not avoid screwing HDPE to metal, metal spacers and large washers should be used, and if you have to fasten metal bolts I would definitely not tap threads directly into HDPE (for the same reasons). Like wood each species of plastic has different properties. For this kind of application I would definitely recommend an other, maybe reinforced plastic.
Hack saws are ok. Next time you want to cut aluminium try your drop saw. Clamp your aluminium between two thin pieces of timber and lubricate with WD40 as this will stop galling. Cut very slowly and let the blade find its own feed rate. Any carbide blade will suffice. The slower you cut, the better the edge. The timber will assist in arresting the chips as the hook and rake on most rip blades are not specifically suited to aluminium.
Hi Steve, I don't want to burst your bubble, but you need to read the MSDS for the product. I won't bore you with the science, but the active compounds in WD40 do have lubricating properties. You are correct in that they also displace moisture. They also leave behind a residue that seals the surface from O2 etc. Direct from the first page under product identifier: Product Name: WD-40 Bulk Liquid Chemical Name: Mixture Product Use: Lubricant, Penetrant, Drives Out Moisture, Removes and Protects Surfaces From Corrosion The primary compound of Naphtha as refined in the common distillate kerosene was the lubricant I used as a machinist before some of the better cutting oils (water soluble) became readily available in the past 30 years.
Hacksawing can be easy and fun. You just need high quality hacksaw and sharp blade, then put some grease or oil to blade. When sawing you need to find optimal grip and pressure to speed ratio. Then it goes like champ and you just have to be careful to stop in time :-) Drilling "pilot holes" to metal before final hole increases accuracy.
Love your video. I would have used a more robust mounting method for the motor instead of the 2 bolts I would have used a 6 bolt method and made the plastic mounting bracket with an angular portion that utilized the strength of that Aluminum back plate. It looks very strong but over the course of time and vibration you want as much strength as possible.
I know this video is very old, but if you still have the power cord zip tied to the energy chain, then normally you can open all the joints on the chain, and lay in the cords :)
In the meanwhile people should go for the 1050 (or 1400) FME-P (note the P in the end) ... Tighter tolerances, better bearings and an ER-16 collet (I think it is ER-16, some sites claim ER-20, others ER-16). Oh and PWM speedcontrol on the FME-P DI models.
was that a 100W spindle? holly 5 piece chicken McNugget meal that was small... I like my 500w spindle it works well in wood and has variable speed of 0-10000 RPM and its not as noisy as routers. only problem is my cnc frame is as rigid as a bowl of frozen Jello. 5lbs force on the spindle tip and it deflects 3mm due to frame bending.
Jetzt noch seitliche Versteifungen an die Z achsen Platte um zu verhindern das sich das Teil wegbiegt dann ist die Stelle schonmal gut gelöst. Der Rest braucht dann auch noch ein paar großvolumige Verstärkungsprofile...
Falls du je vor haben solltest noch mal upzugraden dann würde ich mir über legen ob ich als Kunststoff nicht pa66 mit Glasfaser Anteil nehmen würde und als platte ein geschliffenes edelstahl blech so um die 6-8mm das kriegst du dann nahe zu perfekt Plan (sind nur paar Mikrometer die da net Plan sind also für deine Anforderungen mehr als ausreichend)
Marius, I saw that you made a change in the z-axis to a new machine, inserting a spindle mounting plate. Can you tell if the eccentric spacer is the same (size) used in the Spindle Carriage? thank you Marcus
Thanks for sharing. Lovely hack. Excuse my ignorance on CNCs, but does the extra mass of the new spindle affect the speed and accuracy of the cutters? Are the stepper motors and belts able to cope with the extra load?
+Jeff Harmed No, speed and accuracy are better since it has less vibration on higher feed rates. The stepper motors and belts have no problem with it either.
+Marius Hornberger That makes sense. If it has a thick oxide coating, yes it can be tough on tools. That is what a lot of sandpaper is made with after all. I keep an old blade around for stuff just like that. Great upgrade by the way.
+Marius Hornberger Anodized ("eloxiertes") aluminium is very bad for tools. The layer (chemically the same as Sapphire, Ruby and Corundum; just not a single crystal) is very hard (9 on the Mohs-scale, 10 being diamond) and will dull HSS/hardened steel quickly and can chip tungsten carbide teeth ("Hartmetall", hardness 9.5). The almost "raw" aluminium plate you had, would be no problem though. Sure there are many different alloys of aluminium, but all I ever had to work with cut like butter with wood tools. You should really use oil or wax on the cutting tools though. Otherwise the aluminium will stick to the teeth/knives and you get a rough cut (and may even damage the blade due to the metal buildup).
I did pretty much the same thing. One problem with making the Z plate longer is the larger leverage it has on the gantry, which causes deflection. I'm curious to see what you plan next:) How thick was that piece of aluminium you used?
On the original plate the lower wheels are at the very bottom. But when you extend the plate down, you get the lower part of the plate hanging down with out support against the Z extrusion. This in combination with moving the spindle further from the Z plate increases the flex.If you don't extend the plate down, you wont reach the waste board with how the kress mounts. This might be less of a problem then I make it to be, since the wheels and the rest of the assembly is so flimsy. But it really bugs me :p . I can jiggle the Z axis around by hand easily, but the rest of the machine is pretty sturdy,.
+Marius Hornberger What about the new router included in the kit? Can you recommend using it or would you rather go for the kress 1050? I am planning on getting a x-carve and I wanna use it for sheet metal and thin plates as well as machining small pieces out of metal.
I don't know the included router very well, but as far as I know it has no variable speed. For metal you need that, especially the low rpm range. I'd go with the Kress.
+Marius Hornberger just the feed rate and depth. I usually keep it around 3000mm/m and 2mm depth of cut. But it all depends on the wood type I suppose. Using 1/4" upcut bits so they clear chips fast
Are you using the Kress FM-1 5000-29000 Rpm 1050W spider, i´m planing to use this my self, if i´m not wrong you have 287 OZ motors nema 23 size, i´m driving 425 OZ steppper´s så if your machie goes light and easy i think mine can manage it too.
i have a Q - why cnc works so slow? i know most of you 'run' it in on video X4 or even more but why does it run so slow. is there a mechanical problem to make it faster?
Hi there, I got KRESS 900W, FM 6990 E which is similar whit your new spindle and for which I have one question. I would like to set some ER Chuck but I don't know which one of them are compatible with this spindle shaft. Did you manage to connect ER16 or ER25 or you are using one which gets with tool?
Ich brauch auch mal so ne Aufnahme für nen Eurohals. Im Moment hab ich meine Kress800 mit einer Schlauchklemme und Heißkleber an der originalen Z-Platte befestigt...
Kress Motoren sind einfach der Hammer :-) Ist das die FME-1 oder FME-P? Darf ich mal fragen, mit welcher Maschine Du so sauber Aluminium bohrst? Ich habe mir für Metal eine Quantum B16 geholt, aber bin mit der überhaupt nicht zufrieden, da sie sehr unruhig läuft und rattermarken ohne Ende produziert.
nice, sharp, enlightening.Thanks Marius ! and bzw, I thought one could cut aluminium with a wood-speed bandsaw, don't you want to try some day ? (I just bought a 1950s wood/metal 143 macgine with a gearbox reducing speed for metal, but the manual keeps saying wood speeds are okay for Aluminium). Thanks and Keep on trucking ! (from France)
Das ist PE-500. Wir haben hier eine Firma in der Nähe die das verarbeitet und da hab ich mal nach Reststücken gefragt. Sonst online (ist aber recht teuer)
![GUILTY GEAR -STRIVE- Season Pass 4 Playable Character #1 [Queen Dizzy] Trailer](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nXDsAgYXXv4/mqdefault.jpg)
Interesting project! It's nice how the spindle has a clamping ring right at the bottom, that makes it easy to mount and perfect for CNC use.
Over 65 years ago when I commenced my six year apprentice with the British Royal Navy, the expression on my face was similar to yours when you were about to start "your favourite part" of cutting with a hacksaw. We used steel to make our own tools and my instructor insisted on clamping the workpiece with wood packing all along the length of cut and putting a cloth over the free end to stop it vibrating and damp the noise and never to hold the hacksaw with two hands on one end but use one hand on either end of the saw to guide it continuously and you will not believe this, but he made me lift the saw on the return path as he said that the sliding it back on the workpiece would blunt the teeth.
Seeing your hacksaw cutting action, I must admit, in my instructor's absence, I used your method including the length of stroke as indicated by the paint removal on your saw shown in this video.
Once I broke a half inch Whitworth taps in the hreaded end of a small steel vice I was making and the instructor made me start all over again. In his absence I went to the welding shop , filled the hole with welding and threaded the other end of the U shaped vice. My instructor never noticed and in fact he congratulated me for the accuracy of my fitting of the other parts. Our hardest test piece was manually fitting an H shaped part in a flat -plate made of the same material as the H part. The test included fitting the H then rotating it by 180 degrees keeping the same side as entry and fitting it again , then changing the sides and repeat the test, with all gaps being accurate to a thousand of an inch, as we used the imperial measurement.
Once when I asked why the imperial measurements were chosen , the British instructor told me that is because the number 12 can be divided my many numbers where the answer is a single digit!!!! God bless the British for their logic!!
+Carmel Pule' Hacksaw! Luxury!
+John Bouttell
Yeah, I've been using steel wool on a toothpick scraping away without complaining for 23 years! I'm soon through with my first cut and it feels great!
PinkPonyOfPrey
You were lucky to have a toothpick!
I used to dream of having a toothpick, would have been a band saw to me.
Great project. I love the way you used the CNC to build a pattern right in the material to finish up with the flush-trim bit. Great idea and implementation.
Marius, I'm impressed. On behalf of the RUclips community, may I award you an honorary degree in practical engineering. First class.
+John Bouttell Cool, thanks man!
Pretty good results are a testament to your workmanship abilities since the whole process was a little on the shade tree side.
+Leonard Legg Thank you!
Kress makes excellent spindles. Very nice upgrade.
Those holes are only an uncommon size in Germany. It's a 9/32" size. Inches! :)
+Matthias Wandel As a german, I have to say i hate the imperial system.....
Uncommon in metric.
+Robert Hagman
'murican here, I don't like it either
+Matthias Wandel Ah, good to know. Strange design then. Metric nut, metric threads but imperial eccentric thing.
+Matthias Wandel Not only in Germany. We had inches in Sweden in the old days but nothing new is made with inches. Is it the Great Britain countries that still hang on to inches anymore?
I have a kress spindle and they are really well made. The bushes was hard to find online but are fairly easy to fit so dont send the spindle away, just do it yourself.
Wonderful conversation! And well done too. I think you might want to add gussets connecting acetal plate to AL plate to provide greater rigidity to assembly. Otherwise, you are asking threaded plastic to absorb lateral forces which will eventually cause system sloppiness.
Great video mate. Totally understand your love of the hacksaw!
+dashn64 i love my hacksaw sooooo much, i dont even us my angle grinder any more
dashn6
dashn64 you Could have cutter the Alu with your tablesaw
dashn64 you Could have cutter the Alu with your tablesaw
You can easily cut aluminum like that with a miter saw, or perhaps table saw.
+Justin Bell Yep... I do it all the time. I have even used used a router, though it does tend to clog the bit. No issues with using a table saw, though. He probably just didn't have the right kind of blade.
+Justin Bell jigsaw mates, jigsaw c;
Looks like that start of a good, manly x-carve. Looking forward to seeing how good you can get it.
Nice work Marius! I liked your (apparently) home-made tapping rig.
we should all show our care. send lots aluminum so the fun with the hacksaw will never end.
Another great video. Just a word of warning, a plastic mount won't be rigid enough for heavy cuts in harder materials. I don't believe you do such cutting (yet!) so it's not a problem.
I've got a similar mount but made from aluminium and that is still not stiff enough. Pressure from the cutting head will try to induce X/Y rotation on the pivot that is your clamp. If it does rotate even slightly, it will bite harder and chatter, maybe even stall. I damped the radial stress by making a support for the upper part of the router body too. With this setup I am able to cut aluminium and even steel on my router.
I know this is old as hell but an easy way to get that spindle more rigid is to add an auxiliary support retaining structure for the router. You've got got radial and (a bit of) torsional support, but no axial thrust. Making another bracket under the exhaust ports ~200 mm up is a cheap upgrade
I think you can open the powercord plug (motor side) with screws.
then undo the wire and feed it trough the chain.
then reconnect the plug
holy crap! hey my name is Marius too! i never see anyone with our name. and you are in to machining! that is cool!
@Marius you will find that if you have dedicated cutting tools for Aluminum that have never been used on steel or other materials they will cut the aluminum much better than a tool that has been used to cut steel or other material even the shortest distance. This is also true for Brass. If you test this and find it to be true for yourself you may want to (when affordable) purchase a dedicated (for aluminum) (for brass) set of hack saw blades, drill bits, end mills and any other cutting blades that you will use with any frequency. - - - I hope this helps you and I wish you the best. If you get a chance, please let me know if it works better for you. I hope this helps you and I wish you the best from Houston, Texas, U.S.A.
very well done. You have a great future ahead of you.
Hey Marius, I really enjoy watching your movies, they are really inspiring and fun and have great content! :)
A suggestion, when you drill in aluminum, use isopropyl alcohol as a cutting fluid, it will provide for a cleaner cut and also preserve the cutting edge of your drill bit for longer.
And for sawing off the aluminium, if you have a power jigsaw and a finetoothed blade, it will cut right throug it. Otherwise you should be able to cut aluminium with most circular saw bladeswith carbide tips :)
Pelle Reinke Very good
hope i can find enough time to watch all your good video's
wr from Holland,Henk
Another great vid. even though I don't have a CNC router. You take the time & trouble to explain why etc. which helps. Keep up the good work eh.Thks
Never had a problem with my Kress, but the brushes have finally worn out (after several years) - I should have bought a spare set. Had to wait for new ones to arrive
for cutting aluminum I use an angle grinder with a diamond blade, used for stone and tile, other blades can clog up with hot shavings. I also hate using a hacksaw, powertools ftw... :)
Nice job, I like the way you managed your upgrade. I notice your wooden clamps. I have been wooden clamps too. It is always nice to use something you can make yourself. Best of luck to you. Lee Noring
Love the details, well done.
Very good, I was tempted by this spindle too but couldn't really find it for a reasonable price. Having something which doesn't blow air down like a router helps the dust not throwing all over the place.
Very nice video and a useful upgrade of your X Carve!
But I think weak point of your mount is the clamp made from HDPE. All plastics have a tendency to flow under pressure (and temperature!). Especially HDPE has a high tendency to flow. If you can not avoid screwing HDPE to metal, metal spacers and large washers should be used, and if you have to fasten metal bolts I would definitely not tap threads directly into HDPE (for the same reasons). Like wood each species of plastic has different properties. For this kind of application I would definitely recommend an other, maybe reinforced plastic.
OP! here's hoping you see this - Aluminum can be cut safely and quickly with little fuss on a table saw!
You can get hacksaw blades for your reciprocating saw, speeds things up considerably.
John Call 0pppp
That old spindle motor seems the famous 775 dc motor
Hack saws are ok. Next time you want to cut aluminium try your drop saw. Clamp your aluminium between two thin pieces of timber and lubricate with WD40 as this will stop galling. Cut very slowly and let the blade find its own feed rate. Any carbide blade will suffice. The slower you cut, the better the edge. The timber will assist in arresting the chips as the hook and rake on most rip blades are not specifically suited to aluminium.
Hi Steve,
I don't want to burst your bubble, but you need to read the MSDS for the product. I won't bore you with the science, but the active compounds in WD40 do have lubricating properties. You are correct in that they also displace moisture. They also leave behind a residue that seals the surface from O2 etc.
Direct from the first page under product identifier:
Product Name: WD-40 Bulk Liquid Chemical Name: Mixture
Product Use: Lubricant, Penetrant, Drives Out Moisture, Removes and Protects Surfaces From Corrosion
The primary compound of Naphtha as refined in the common distillate kerosene was the lubricant I used as a machinist before some of the better cutting oils (water soluble) became readily available in the past 30 years.
+Steve Sherman - Yet it works. I guess the mechanical process of tribology occurs with smoke and mirrors...
I suggest adding a set of transfer punches to your tool inventory for use at 5:00.
Nice job Marius!!!
Bravo Marius. nice presentation.
Hacksawing can be easy and fun. You just need high quality hacksaw and sharp blade, then put some grease or oil to blade. When sawing you need to find optimal grip and pressure to speed ratio. Then it goes like champ and you just have to be careful to stop in time :-)
Drilling "pilot holes" to metal before final hole increases accuracy.
I'm a big fan of tapping too!
Looks like nice upgrade Marius!
Love your video. I would have used a more robust mounting method for the motor instead of the 2 bolts I would have used a 6 bolt method and made the plastic mounting bracket with an angular portion that utilized the strength of that Aluminum back plate.
It looks very strong but over the course of time and vibration you want as much strength as possible.
Excellent job and explanation!
Jigsaw + aluminium cutting blade = all your dreams come true.
I know this video is very old, but if you still have the power cord zip tied to the energy chain, then normally you can open all the joints on the chain, and lay in the cords :)
In the meanwhile people should go for the 1050 (or 1400) FME-P (note the P in the end) ... Tighter tolerances, better bearings and an ER-16 collet (I think it is ER-16, some sites claim ER-20, others ER-16). Oh and PWM speedcontrol on the FME-P DI models.
das schöne ist das es für die Kress spindel auch spannzangen in 6 & 8 mm gibt. abgesehen davon hat sie auch mehr leistung
A fine tooth ( 6 tpi) blade on a band saw cuts aluminum like butter - I've cut up to 50 mm
Great video! I'm pretty sure your bandsaw would have worked just fine for that aluminum.
Another superb video.
Nice job Marius!
Wood cutting circular saw blades chew through aluminum like butter. Throw that hack saw away! :P
was that a 100W spindle? holly 5 piece chicken McNugget meal that was small...
I like my 500w spindle it works well in wood and has variable speed of 0-10000 RPM and its not as noisy as routers. only problem is my cnc frame is as rigid as a bowl of frozen Jello.
5lbs force on the spindle tip and it deflects 3mm due to frame bending.
Jetzt noch seitliche Versteifungen an die Z achsen Platte um zu verhindern das sich das Teil wegbiegt dann ist die Stelle schonmal gut gelöst. Der Rest braucht dann auch noch ein paar großvolumige Verstärkungsprofile...
Great video. Very interesting. Have to go through your other videos. Subscribed.
you can cut aluminium with a lot of bandsaw blades
Too prevent 'chatter' it helps to increase feedrate or increase cut size thereby increasing load on cutter!
Falls du je vor haben solltest noch mal upzugraden dann würde ich mir über legen ob ich als Kunststoff nicht pa66 mit Glasfaser Anteil nehmen würde und als platte ein geschliffenes edelstahl blech so um die 6-8mm das kriegst du dann nahe zu perfekt Plan
(sind nur paar Mikrometer die da net Plan sind also für deine Anforderungen mehr als ausreichend)
Marius, I saw that you made a change in the z-axis to a new machine, inserting a spindle mounting plate. Can you tell if the eccentric spacer is the same (size) used in the Spindle Carriage?
thank you
Marcus
Nice workshop! :-)
at 5:06 why didn't you just flip the old bracket upside aligned with the two new holes to get access to the two drillable holes?
Thanks for sharing. Lovely hack. Excuse my ignorance on CNCs, but does the extra mass of the new spindle affect the speed and accuracy of the cutters? Are the stepper motors and belts able to cope with the extra load?
+Jeff Harmed No, speed and accuracy are better since it has less vibration on higher feed rates. The stepper motors and belts have no problem with it either.
awesome tools man!
Nice video! Good work
I'm surprised you didn't use any woodworking tools on the aluminum. I've never had any problem cutting aluminum that thick.
+Anton Kiriwas I was told that this is some kind of tough aluminum, so I didn't want to risk ruining a blade.
+Marius Hornberger That makes sense. If it has a thick oxide coating, yes it can be tough on tools. That is what a lot of sandpaper is made with after all. I keep an old blade around for stuff just like that. Great upgrade by the way.
+Marius Hornberger
Anodized ("eloxiertes") aluminium is very bad for tools. The layer (chemically the same as Sapphire, Ruby and Corundum; just not a single crystal) is very hard (9 on the Mohs-scale, 10 being diamond) and will dull HSS/hardened steel quickly and can chip tungsten carbide teeth ("Hartmetall", hardness 9.5). The almost "raw" aluminium plate you had, would be no problem though. Sure there are many different alloys of aluminium, but all I ever had to work with cut like butter with wood tools.
You should really use oil or wax on the cutting tools though. Otherwise the aluminium will stick to the teeth/knives and you get a rough cut (and may even damage the blade due to the metal buildup).
hello
I have also build the Mattias's bandsaw, and I use to cut aluminium.
it cut 15mm aluminium.
they should hire you!
I did pretty much the same thing. One problem with making the Z plate longer is the larger leverage it has on the gantry, which causes deflection. I'm curious to see what you plan next:) How thick was that piece of aluminium you used?
+Auarhau the leverage only gets bigger through the heavier motor. The wheel position on the z-axis is about the same as before. 5mm
On the original plate the lower wheels are at the very bottom. But when you extend the plate down, you get the lower part of the plate hanging down with out support against the Z extrusion. This in combination with moving the spindle further from the Z plate increases the flex.If you don't extend the plate down, you wont reach the waste board with how the kress mounts. This might be less of a problem then I make it to be, since the wheels and the rest of the assembly is so flimsy. But it really bugs me :p . I can jiggle the Z axis around by hand easily, but the rest of the machine is pretty sturdy,.
Super geile Werkstatt haste da... Hätte ich auch gerne ;)
very nice job
You can use ajig saw with half wood and metal blade with great success to cut aluminuim
Excellent vid!
"Waste piece", that size...? I would like to talk to that manufacturer ;-)
+Brian Petersen hahah my thoughts :D
Stepcraft sells an auto tool changer for kress for their own cnc. I don't know if the ATC will work with xcarve controller.
very....very nice.....congratulations..... São Paulo - Capital - Brasil
Mega cooles video, wie immer von dir....
2,35 you can cating aluminium with table saw or bandsaw
hi Marius
very nice work i have a question about the new router what is the brand and model? coz i want to buy one
thanks
Kress 1050 FME-1
+Marius Hornberger What about the new router included in the kit? Can you recommend using it or would you rather go for the kress 1050? I am planning on getting a x-carve and I wanna use it for sheet metal and thin plates as well as machining small pieces out of metal.
I don't know the included router very well, but as far as I know it has no variable speed. For metal you need that, especially the low rpm range. I'd go with the Kress.
Marius you can cut aluminium on your band saw
With the blade speed I run the saw, the blade wouldn't like that and I don't really want metal shavings mixed in the wood shavings or in the saw
Nice work.
I see that it is a Kress Spindle. What is the wattage or model number of the one you are using? Thanks for the video! Keep it up!
It's the Kress FME-1050-->1050w
Marius Hornberger is it a fme-1 or a fme-p?
You sure have some lovely tools man. Jealous
one more question dit ju make ripple from the the Kress spider or does it be neutral with no problems, it´s fun and col with cnc!
you can double your feed rate. im over double with my x carve and a trim router
+Jamie Phillips did you also increase the feed acceleration?
+Marius Hornberger just the feed rate and depth. I usually keep it around 3000mm/m and 2mm depth of cut. But it all depends on the wood type I suppose. Using 1/4" upcut bits so they clear chips fast
But better blades, I recommend bahco. What were you using for threading as a holder?
+Marcin Zdunek ruclips.net/video/RRdr16loUSg/видео.html
Very nice modification and upgrade. Marius, since you are planning on reinforcing the rail system anyway, why not go with the stronger 611 router?
+MRrwmac The 611 is not stronger and not as accurate. Use Google to check that. And it's incredibly difficult/expensive to get in Europe (300€)
+Marius Hornberger Good to hear that! Sounds like the one you bought is going to be a great router for your CNC!
love your video's
Are you using the Kress FM-1 5000-29000 Rpm 1050W spider, i´m planing to use this my self, if i´m not wrong you have 287 OZ motors nema 23 size, i´m driving 425 OZ steppper´s så if your machie goes light and easy i think mine can manage it too.
yes, it's that spindle and i have no problems with it.
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Make sure that dust doesn't get in the Motor , i see some ventilation holes
you should make a fixture for the vacuum cleaner on the side of the bit
I already did and have a video about it
i have a Q - why cnc works so slow? i know most of you 'run' it in on video X4 or even more but why does it run so slow. is there a mechanical problem to make it faster?
Hi there, I got KRESS 900W, FM 6990 E which is similar whit your new spindle and for which I have one question. I would like to set some ER Chuck but I don't know which one of them are compatible with this spindle shaft. Did you manage to connect ER16 or ER25 or you are using one which gets with tool?
+Senad I boguth the ones that are sold by Kress.
Why didn't you use your bandsaw or tabel saw to cut the aluminium
Ich brauch auch mal so ne Aufnahme für nen Eurohals. Im Moment hab ich meine Kress800 mit einer Schlauchklemme und Heißkleber an der originalen Z-Platte befestigt...
I'm not an expert so curious, would it be beneficial to add a second mounting/support bracket for the spindle, mounted near the top?
+Rob Lambert Probably, I noticed some issues with only one mount.
Kress Motoren sind einfach der Hammer :-) Ist das die FME-1 oder FME-P? Darf ich mal fragen, mit welcher Maschine Du so sauber Aluminium bohrst? Ich habe mir für Metal eine Quantum B16 geholt, aber bin mit der überhaupt nicht zufrieden, da sie sehr unruhig läuft und rattermarken ohne Ende produziert.
eine FME-1. Das saubere bohren liegt nicht an der Maschine sondern am hochwertigen Bohrer, die ich verwende. Hoffmann.de -> Bohrer von Garant
Ah, ok. danke. Dann werde Ich mir zum Testen einen Bohrer von Garant gönnen.
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nice, sharp, enlightening.Thanks Marius !
and bzw, I thought one could cut aluminium with a wood-speed bandsaw, don't you want to try some day ? (I just bought a 1950s wood/metal 143 macgine with a gearbox reducing speed for metal, but the manual keeps saying wood speeds are okay for Aluminium).
Thanks and Keep on trucking ! (from France)
Wired holes in plastic never last long, use pressed in steel busses like tubtara!
Hi super Projekt. Was ist das für Plastik das du für die Halterung verwendest, hab es nicht verstanden und woher bekommt man das? Gruß Kamikaze
Das ist PE-500. Wir haben hier eine Firma in der Nähe die das verarbeitet und da hab ich mal nach Reststücken gefragt. Sonst online (ist aber recht teuer)
Dankeschön
Great video. Can you add a link to the spindle you used?
Done, no link though, but just the brand and name of the spindle
Thank you! I'm curious how that compares to the one that comes on the Shopbot Desktop. Any idea?
What does the manufacturer who gave you the polyethylene make? I wouldn't even know what industry to ask for this sort of thing.
+Scott Baker I don't know exactly what they do. Some kind of special shaped parts for machines etc.
Huh. Well, thanks for a great video!
At 1:24 I'm sure you used a bandsaw, and yet you used a hacksaw to cut the Aluminum sheet stock.