sir/Madame you could have use a drill pump for the water which will assist your pumping needs. you made a big mistake removing the plug for drainage,now you will find this task labour intensive.
Having just maintained, not even fixed, a 26-foot fiberglass sailboat for 8 years on the Great Lakes, I know how much work this is taking and I'm impressed with your gumption. Looking forward to seeing this project come to fruition. Good work on the narration, too.
I tried making a small speaker box thing for an ATV once with fiberglass... it went as well as your attempt haha Dont feel bad when you have to scrap an idea and start over. It's all part of learning.
@@LivingOnALifeboat From my own experience, it will stick initially but moisture will creep in and let it come separated. Anyway, you did the right thing with epoxy. Hope the rest of your conversion will go smoothly. 👍
Amazing ambitious couple. Only last week I saw 3 retired life boats for sale and seriously thinking of buying one and having it converted to a live aboard ,but wondered how it would come together. Its so helpful and inspiring watching you both. Can't wait to see the finished aluja ❤
This is so cool to see (and, so awful!! all that effort and it all went so sideways!!) Very much looking forward to seeing how you dealt with this challenge! Great job! Keep up the good work (and yeah...the PPE!)
Great job. Looking forward for the next video. Just a little tip. Use chicken wire instead of plywood. easy to mold. Cut your fiberglass mats into a manageable size . Dip a mat into the resin solution so that it becomes completely wet. And apply to the chicken wire. when this is dry. you can sand it smooth if you need to and start building up your shape.
The brass cage with the “bouncy ball” would also act as a “self bailing” feature. As the boat rises over the crests of the waves, following the natural wave action at sea, the pressure of the ocean water pushing against the ball will change enough to allow the ball to momentarily “fall” away from the opening and sucking a small amount of water out of the bilge, then as the boat drops down into the waves troughs the ball will be pressed against the opening to keep the sea water out. It would have also worked when underway using the motor. As the boat is moving forward any changes in pressure would momentarily open and close the ball valve and bail water out in the process. It would have been a very handy feature to have kept.
A couple of the holes were where the keel cooling was. And the other hole was for a pressure sensing device that over rode the safety of the cable release for the davits. The pressure of the water actuated a lever.
My early attempts at fiberglass work were much like yours! This was 1966. Not a whole lot has changed in the materials since then. Fiberglass dust is definitely a health hazard that should be guarded against, but the fumes from the resin when applied in the open air are not a problem, unless you have high sensitivity to the material. In that case use a mask with activated charcoal filtering. If all is well, you should not even smell the stuff. The best tool for applying the resin on surfaces such as you are dealing with would be a squeegee such as you would use for glass cleaning, but with a Teflon edge so the resin will not stick. Pour an appropriate amount of resin on, and use the squeegee to work the air bubbles out. Much easier. On surfaces not primarily horizontal, the roller will be a big help, but remember to work it in with the squeegee, as you work out the wrinkles and bubbles. Wear Nitrile single use gloves, as the stuff sure is messy! Acetone is the only satisfactory clean up solvent I have come across, with the rather pricey butyl cellusolve a close second. You might also consider using fiberglass roving for the bulk of your thickness. It looks like a VERY coarse weave of fiberglass strands.
Love this project! And luckily I think I have joined you at the relative beginning of the journey! Can’t wait to see the progress! I too have had nightmares with fibreglass! May be worth watching a few of the Florida boat resto channels for ideas?
Thanks! It is a fun project. Since we did this many hours of fibreglass videos have been watched and while I’m still learning new things every day I would like to say that our skill level has definitely improved lol
Am I seeing what I think I'm seeing? Did you not use thickened epoxy in the joints? It looks like you fiberglassed right over an opened joint AND the tie wraps?.
Fastest 'ballast foam' removal tool known: sander with 18-36 grit course paper, and a shop vac...make a bigger mess than a 2 year old with a bag of flour...but it WILL reshape or remove every bit of foam you have, FAST! (DEFINITELY use a 9000-series 3M full face respirator mask!)
I am enjoying the videos and commentary. Just an observable comment on your explanation about the resin setting up too quickly. Back when I used to ride fiberglass surfboard (and subsequently did my own ding repairs), I learned to use less catalyst so the usability time of the resin is much longer. Getting the ratios right will take little trial and error, but it might make for more manageable application. The other thing is that the flatter or more you can use gravity to your advantage the better. The zip ties used to connect the wood is causing high points that is lifting the glass cloth off of the wood and introducing air and reducing adhesion. Hope that is somewhat helpful unsolicited advise. 😜
That bouncy ball thing was an emergency bailer. If the boat gets swamped, the weight of water inside overcomes the bouyancy of the ball allowing the water level to equalise.
Layering the fibreglass. Work faster .when rolling out. Rather than do it in 1 whole piece tear it and put it on . Wet it out before you lay it .make sure you rough sand it out before adding the next layer .
how did you fiberglass over the holes? I put apoxy in a few small ones. I was wondering what a large hole was for in about the same spot. it must be te drain valve. for such an unsinkable design these things sure have alot of holes and things attached below the water line.
We will show the process in upcoming videos but we ground back the fibreglass and epoxied patches over all the holes we had. Lots of layers of fibreglass then fairing and sanding.
Have you considered that without a keel and thousands of pounds lighter than originally designed, she's going to bob like a cork and be very subject to any currents coming across the beam. I would put serious consideration into a pair of leeboard keels fore and aft to prevent that.
If it were me.... I'd take the center support (the steel tube) out of those openings. Then I'd span the entire opening with plywood strips, past the edges of the opening, from the outside of the hull. I'd attach wooden ribs to the outer surface of the plywood, to stiffen it and help it hold it's shape. These wooden parts would just be forms that you would reuse on the other side as well. Once this was done. I'd cover the inside surface of the plywood form with peal and stick vinyl shelf paper. Get the surface just as smooth as you can, so that you have less cosmetic work to do on the finished product. Mark out where you would like windows to be cut, and hot melt glue PVA or uerethane foam "blanks" where those windows will be (on the inside surface). Next I'd wax the remaining exposed surface of the shelf paper with carnauba car wax. The resin won't adhere to the wax. Then I'd abraid the flange surfaces on all sides of the openings, and degrease them with acetone, so that you'll get good resin bond. Once all that prep work is done, I'd use small pieces of cut mat to glass it up to about 7 layers of mat. Working with smaller pieces it's much easier to saturate them with resin as you're rolling them into place, and air doesn't have as far to go to escape. Once all that's had a chance to cure I'd resin on 10mm of balsa wood or other composite filler core material. Don't run it flush up to the sides of where the windows will screw in - you don't want those screws to create a way for water to get to the filler material. After that's cured I'd top it off with 3 more layers of mat. AND to finish it off I'd add at least 2 more layers of mat at the corners of where your windows will be installed, and around the entire perimeter of the opening. Once the forms come off, you'll have some filling and layering to do at the edges, but it should clean up nicely. Yes, this method will create a lot of small screw holes to fill in the existing fiberglass around the openings, but it should give you a clean and very solid result. Might go ahead and acquire the windows you wish to install, so that you know you're getting the holes right.
Thanks for this long detailed post. As you will see in a future video we did cut this all out and I removed the metal beam. I ended up framing the windows/wall in with timber and marine ply then epoxying multiple layers of glass over everything.
Nice to see people just trying and doing! Your fiber glass issue is probably two fold. High water content in the wood and or humidity, and the chemicals in the wood definitely don't help either. Try using less catalyst to soak the wood, and it gives more time to work with the mat. it will cure fine, just over a longer period.
As most of our local cruising is within 30 nm we should have plenty of range for 90% of our trips and we are getting a small Diesel generator for when we want to do longer passages.
Why not get the original doors back and cut out Windows from them leaving the outer part intact? Would be way stronger and they would fit perfectly. Just my 2 cents. Good luck to you and if I were 20 years younger I would get one of these and convert it myself but am happy to let you guys do the work. Bon voyage!
Thanks they are really interesting boats! We started this because we wanted something we could build for two people vs the normal boat that can sleep 6 but has cooking space for 2 and a head you need to be a gymnast to get in and out of!
Did anyone else notice something odd about the survival gear stored aboard the lifeboat? The lifeboat was on a ferry...a vessel designed and intended to operate inshore and quite probably not out of sight of land. Yet there are food and water provisions for days. Does anyone think that a survivor is going to starve to death in the 3-4 hours it takes to rescue them from the lifeboat? Likewise with water rations. The boat even had a FISHING KIT! Was that to keep the occupants from becoming bored during that 3-4 hours previously mentioned? Give it to a government...any government...to mandate ridiculous requirements thus unnecessarily driving the cost up for everyone and everything. I AM NOT against safety by any means. I grew up on boats in Southern Louisiana and I know how fast something can go from being a boat to an artificial reef. If I ever find a sane naval architect that is willing to design the vessel I want without charging what the boat will cost for the plans, I plan to make long ocean passages when I retire. I will have supplies and equipment such as that found on the lifeboat. But if I opt for a canoe instead to piddle around on local bayous I don't think I'll need survival gear intended for distant trips on open ocean.
Hey! The supplies are actually a SOLAS standard so all lifeboats no matter where should have similar gear. That said this lifeboat was on a ferry that was originally crossing the Med and then in its life on the west coast of Canada it was on the very northern route in very remote locations! Hopefully you would be rescued quickly but I sure would be happy to have the supplies if I wasn’t! The fishing gear really is a bit of a joke tho as I’m not sure how one line is going to feed 60 people!
Great build! You guys should wear gloves when working with some of the materials used in the boat, and specially FRP, lots of splinters, shards and sharp edges especially when you start cutting them.
Thanks! Yes fibreglass is a pesky itchy product. Lots of gloves have been used over this project. Thankfully I don’t really react to most fibreglass dust I get slightly prickly for a few hours then nothing. It helps that usually I have a vacuum hooked up to any tools we are using now.
@@LivingOnALifeboat pretty sure cable ties are classified by the USCG as a metal(usually stainless steel) zip tie. I know this because plastic zip ties are strictly forbidden in machinery spaces on inspected vessels.
If you just get a long hose, completely submerge it in whatever you're draining, plug one end and pull it down lower than the source, then unplug it, it will flow.
Yikes! Working with Fiberglas can be a hit or miss process and in this case it was a for sure Miss! I’m looking forward to watching what you kids decided to do instead of this!
![Alan the lifeboat heads north LEG 4 (pt2): Lindisfarne to Edinburgh - beached & MAYDAY call Ep98[4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nouI8QABHLw/mqdefault.jpg)
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Lol you are shaking the wrong end lol 😂 another good watch stay safe
No he's shaking the right end it's just not in the right tank.
I love seeing our old yacht beside you in this video! The one with the blue stripes. I miss that yacht so much.
Thanks for watching!
sir/Madame you could have use a drill pump for the water which will assist your pumping needs. you made a big mistake removing the plug for drainage,now you will find this task labour intensive.
Having just maintained, not even fixed, a 26-foot fiberglass sailboat for 8 years on the Great Lakes, I know how much work this is taking and I'm impressed with your gumption. Looking forward to seeing this project come to fruition. Good work on the narration, too.
Thanks so much! They're all a labour of love, aren't they?
@@LivingOnALifeboat Yes, indeed.
I absolutely admire both of you keep moving forward you'll find it gets better as you go
i love being human🥰 Mistakes are just roads you try not to travel twice!
Some people never make mistakes. They never do anything!
Right? I really admire what these two have taken on! Can't wait to see the progress from here...
I so enjoy your channel an everything on it!
I tried making a small speaker box thing for an ATV once with fiberglass... it went as well as your attempt haha Dont feel bad when you have to scrap an idea and start over. It's all part of learning.
In my experience, always use epoxy when fibre glassing wood.
Polyester doesn't stick very well to wood.
Hope it does in your case. 😊👍
It actually did stick to the wood rather well but as you will see in a future video we did scrap this and switched to epoxy for the next attempt :)
@@LivingOnALifeboat
From my own experience, it will stick initially but moisture will creep in and let it come separated.
Anyway, you did the right thing with epoxy.
Hope the rest of your conversion will go smoothly. 👍
As someone who has worked with fiberglass I can say that you never make mistakes. Just happy accidents that allow you to retry a different method. 😆
This attempt definitely did not work but it definitely steered our way for the next attempt which worked much better :) Learning never ends
Amazing ambitious couple. Only last week I saw 3 retired life boats for sale and seriously thinking of buying one and having it converted to a live aboard ,but wondered how it would come together.
Its so helpful and inspiring watching you both. Can't wait to see the finished aluja ❤
Thank you it’s quite the journey we gave ourselves but it’s also very exciting!
Learning sometimes sucks but remember the lesson and carry on this will be epic !! Much Love from the frigid east Coast Of Canada !!
The new series, I've been waiting for.
Can't wait to watch this build.
Keep going, we're right behind ya🙏🙌
Another great video! Keep them coming!
Thanks! Editing the next one this week :)
Wow! I haven't seen this fiber glass style in 30 years when my father was building his fishing boat.
This is so cool to see (and, so awful!! all that effort and it all went so sideways!!) Very much looking forward to seeing how you dealt with this challenge! Great job! Keep up the good work (and yeah...the PPE!)
Great job. Looking forward for the next video. Just a little tip. Use chicken wire instead of plywood. easy to mold. Cut your fiberglass mats into a manageable size . Dip a mat into the resin solution so that it becomes completely wet. And apply to the chicken wire. when this is dry. you can sand it smooth if you need to and start building up your shape.
Thanks! In a future video you will see how I redid this as yes it was a disaster lol
The brass cage with the “bouncy ball” would also act as a “self bailing” feature. As the boat rises over the crests of the waves, following the natural wave action at sea, the pressure of the ocean water pushing against the ball will change enough to allow the ball to momentarily “fall” away from the opening and sucking a small amount of water out of the bilge, then as the boat drops down into the waves troughs the ball will be pressed against the opening to keep the sea water out. It would have also worked when underway using the motor. As the boat is moving forward any changes in pressure would momentarily open and close the ball valve and bail water out in the process. It would have been a very handy feature to have kept.
Interesting thanks for the info!
I fixed small areas of my canoe with fiberglss and resin it is tricky . You have to be quick
You took out the drain plug and fiber glassed over, what was the other opening on the bottom of the boat?
A couple of the holes were where the keel cooling was. And the other hole was for a pressure sensing device that over rode the safety of the cable release for the davits. The pressure of the water actuated a lever.
My early attempts at fiberglass work were much like yours! This was 1966. Not a whole lot has changed in the materials since then. Fiberglass dust is definitely a health hazard that should be guarded against, but the fumes from the resin when applied in the open air are not a problem, unless you have high sensitivity to the material. In that case use a mask with activated charcoal filtering. If all is well, you should not even smell the stuff. The best tool for applying the resin on surfaces such as you are dealing with would be a squeegee such as you would use for glass cleaning, but with a Teflon edge so the resin will not stick. Pour an appropriate amount of resin on, and use the squeegee to work the air bubbles out. Much easier. On surfaces not primarily horizontal, the roller will be a big help, but remember to work it in with the squeegee, as you work out the wrinkles and bubbles. Wear Nitrile single use gloves, as the stuff sure is messy! Acetone is the only satisfactory clean up solvent I have come across, with the rather pricey butyl cellusolve a close second. You might also consider using fiberglass roving for the bulk of your thickness. It looks like a VERY coarse weave of fiberglass strands.
Thanks for your assistance I definitely have learned a lot since starting this project. I will definitely be trying a squeegee out in the future!
Y'all should hold onto some of that stuff. You never know when it could come in handy out on the water...
the tube to empty must be in the water or fuel
Love this project! And luckily I think I have joined you at the relative beginning of the journey! Can’t wait to see the progress! I too have had nightmares with fibreglass! May be worth watching a few of the Florida boat resto channels for ideas?
Thanks! It is a fun project. Since we did this many hours of fibreglass videos have been watched and while I’m still learning new things every day I would like to say that our skill level has definitely improved lol
So glad i dont need to do any of this to mine.
Am I seeing what I think I'm seeing? Did you not use thickened epoxy in the joints? It looks like you fiberglassed right over an opened joint AND the tie wraps?.
Wow. .....the check valve goes in the liquid. Apply a smidgen of thought and a siphon results.
It did work better once I figured out how to do it but it was still very slow compared to just being able to open the drain which we did in the end
Fastest 'ballast foam' removal tool known: sander with 18-36 grit course paper, and a shop vac...make a bigger mess than a 2 year old with a bag of flour...but it WILL reshape or remove every bit of foam you have, FAST! (DEFINITELY use a 9000-series 3M full face respirator mask!)
I am enjoying the videos and commentary. Just an observable comment on your explanation about the resin setting up too quickly. Back when I used to ride fiberglass surfboard (and subsequently did my own ding repairs), I learned to use less catalyst so the usability time of the resin is much longer. Getting the ratios right will take little trial and error, but it might make for more manageable application. The other thing is that the flatter or more you can use gravity to your advantage the better. The zip ties used to connect the wood is causing high points that is lifting the glass cloth off of the wood and introducing air and reducing adhesion. Hope that is somewhat helpful unsolicited advise. 😜
Any feedback is always helpful! We ended up scrapping this and as you will see in future videos we came up with a much better option.
That bouncy ball thing was an emergency bailer. If the boat gets swamped, the weight of water inside overcomes the bouyancy of the ball allowing the water level to equalise.
Very interesting. Thanks for the info!
Who knew?
Layering the fibreglass. Work faster .when rolling out. Rather than do it in 1 whole piece tear it and put it on . Wet it out before you lay it .make sure you rough sand it out before adding the next layer .
Exactly what I was going to say. He is moving so slow! It’s like he was building his own casket
how did you fiberglass over the holes? I put apoxy in a few small ones. I was wondering what a large hole was for in about the same spot. it must be te drain valve. for such an unsinkable design these things sure have alot of holes and things attached below the water line.
We will show the process in upcoming videos but we ground back the fibreglass and epoxied patches over all the holes we had. Lots of layers of fibreglass then fairing and sanding.
@@LivingOnALifeboat that'll be a good episode
Better to use foam core panels gives you insulation as well as a wall
Have you considered that without a keel and thousands of pounds lighter than originally designed, she's going to bob like a cork and be very subject to any currents coming across the beam. I would put serious consideration into a pair of leeboard keels fore and aft to prevent that.
We did realize that and between adding weight and other thing’s to come we are prepared for this.
If it were me.... I'd take the center support (the steel tube) out of those openings. Then I'd span the entire opening with plywood strips, past the edges of the opening, from the outside of the hull. I'd attach wooden ribs to the outer surface of the plywood, to stiffen it and help it hold it's shape. These wooden parts would just be forms that you would reuse on the other side as well. Once this was done. I'd cover the inside surface of the plywood form with peal and stick vinyl shelf paper. Get the surface just as smooth as you can, so that you have less cosmetic work to do on the finished product. Mark out where you would like windows to be cut, and hot melt glue PVA or uerethane foam "blanks" where those windows will be (on the inside surface). Next I'd wax the remaining exposed surface of the shelf paper with carnauba car wax. The resin won't adhere to the wax. Then I'd abraid the flange surfaces on all sides of the openings, and degrease them with acetone, so that you'll get good resin bond. Once all that prep work is done, I'd use small pieces of cut mat to glass it up to about 7 layers of mat. Working with smaller pieces it's much easier to saturate them with resin as you're rolling them into place, and air doesn't have as far to go to escape. Once all that's had a chance to cure I'd resin on 10mm of balsa wood or other composite filler core material. Don't run it flush up to the sides of where the windows will screw in - you don't want those screws to create a way for water to get to the filler material. After that's cured I'd top it off with 3 more layers of mat. AND to finish it off I'd add at least 2 more layers of mat at the corners of where your windows will be installed, and around the entire perimeter of the opening. Once the forms come off, you'll have some filling and layering to do at the edges, but it should clean up nicely. Yes, this method will create a lot of small screw holes to fill in the existing fiberglass around the openings, but it should give you a clean and very solid result. Might go ahead and acquire the windows you wish to install, so that you know you're getting the holes right.
Thanks for this long detailed post. As you will see in a future video we did cut this all out and I removed the metal beam. I ended up framing the windows/wall in with timber and marine ply then epoxying multiple layers of glass over everything.
The check valve (shaking valve), should be in the fluid.
Nice to see people just trying and doing!
Your fiber glass issue is probably two fold. High water content in the wood and or humidity, and the chemicals in the wood definitely don't help either. Try using less catalyst to soak the wood, and it gives more time to work with the mat. it will cure fine, just over a longer period.
I think it was unwise to get rid of the diesel engine and tank. How far are you going to get on electric?
As most of our local cruising is within 30 nm we should have plenty of range for 90% of our trips and we are getting a small Diesel generator for when we want to do longer passages.
Why not get the original doors back and cut out Windows from them leaving the outer part intact? Would be way stronger and they would fit perfectly. Just my 2 cents. Good luck to you and if I were 20 years younger I would get one of these and convert it myself but am happy to let you guys do the work. Bon voyage!
Hey thanks it is a fun project! There was no doors to cover the sides on this lifeboat it just has open sides with tarps that cover the holes.
What you thought was a pee cup is actually a cup for which to ration water.
Haha
@@LivingOnALifeboat I've been on lifeboat rabbithole recently, so I know oddly specific things about them.
Also I'm really into your build! So cool!
Thanks they are really interesting boats! We started this because we wanted something we could build for two people vs the normal boat that can sleep 6 but has cooking space for 2 and a head you need to be a gymnast to get in and out of!
I never worked with fiberglass but from the looks of it, does not look like fun at all!
It became much easier once we switched to epoxy!
The shaker ends go in the tank
Did anyone else notice something odd about the survival gear stored aboard the lifeboat? The lifeboat was on a ferry...a vessel designed and intended to operate inshore and quite probably not out of sight of land. Yet there are food and water provisions for days. Does anyone think that a survivor is going to starve to death in the 3-4 hours it takes to rescue them from the lifeboat? Likewise with water rations. The boat even had a FISHING KIT! Was that to keep the occupants from becoming bored during that 3-4 hours previously mentioned? Give it to a government...any government...to mandate ridiculous requirements thus unnecessarily driving the cost up for everyone and everything.
I AM NOT against safety by any means. I grew up on boats in Southern Louisiana and I know how fast something can go from being a boat to an artificial reef. If I ever find a sane naval architect that is willing to design the vessel I want without charging what the boat will cost for the plans, I plan to make long ocean passages when I retire. I will have supplies and equipment such as that found on the lifeboat. But if I opt for a canoe instead to piddle around on local bayous I don't think I'll need survival gear intended for distant trips on open ocean.
Hey! The supplies are actually a SOLAS standard so all lifeboats no matter where should have similar gear. That said this lifeboat was on a ferry that was originally crossing the Med and then in its life on the west coast of Canada it was on the very northern route in very remote locations! Hopefully you would be rescued quickly but I sure would be happy to have the supplies if I wasn’t! The fishing gear really is a bit of a joke tho as I’m not sure how one line is going to feed 60 people!
You guys really need to join and watch BoatWorksToday 's channel and learn all about fiber glassing.
He is a great resource!
Great build! You guys should wear gloves when working with some of the materials used in the boat, and specially FRP, lots of splinters, shards and sharp edges especially when you start cutting them.
Thanks! Yes fibreglass is a pesky itchy product. Lots of gloves have been used over this project. Thankfully I don’t really react to most fibreglass dust I get slightly prickly for a few hours then nothing. It helps that usually I have a vacuum hooked up to any tools we are using now.
Zap straps? Never heard them called that before. Must be a Canadian thing, the rest of the world calls them zip ties
Haha maybe a Canadian thing! I think technically we are supposed to call them cable ties anyways
@@LivingOnALifeboat pretty sure cable ties are classified by the USCG as a metal(usually stainless steel) zip tie.
I know this because plastic zip ties are strictly forbidden in machinery spaces on inspected vessels.
12:35 what the fuck.
Live and learn we did
A simple siphon would've done ya just fine draining the water tank.
I had purchased the one we used years before but had just never used it...
If you just get a long hose, completely submerge it in whatever you're draining, plug one end and pull it down lower than the source, then unplug it, it will flow.
Your shaking the wrong end and way way to fast
It would have worked fine if you put the jigging end in tank extended the hose over the side of the boat below the tank level so it will siphon out
Better to use cloth rather than Matt price is more but better finish
Wrong end 🫡
I feel like I'm cheating on Alex Hibbert watching this. Hope it all went well though...
Great Video! Your English is very good! With some more practice you would be indistinguishable from a native speaker!
Yikes! Working with Fiberglas can be a hit or miss process and in this case it was a for sure Miss! I’m looking forward to watching what you kids decided to do instead of this!
I think you should have used epoxy
I agree, we switched after this failed attempt haha
You will need to buy a lot more anti nausea pills, and i mean A LOT.
Should’ve done your homework very bad workmanship
I agree it very much was!