Feeling your disappointment. But good to know that GL reached out to you. Thank you for sharing your experience with as and for the very useful review. Keep up your great work Master Beaver 🙌👍
It's funny how the motor and gears sound is magnified once the body shell is put on. I never realized how big the sound difference is until seeing this.
I feel your pain. I have one part I am trying to source a replacement, and cannot find it. There is not even an aluminum upgrade to replace it with. I really want to like this car, but getting the front end set up has been difficult.
Hi Beaver thanks for uploading this video, it really gives me input. I thought twice about buying this Kit. cause this will cost a lot of money. I don't want to be disappointed in the future.
The manufacture has recognized the problems. I believe they will improve it in the next batches. As of now, XRX DPA is the best because it seems like they have fixed all the problems already.
I think the same problem with you is just gear diff / gear a42. My ball end is good, there are no sign of break and nothing is stuck. About front wheel woble, i have it too. I add shim to reduce the woble.
If I shim it, it won't spin at all. I have to let it off so it can spin freely. I'll upgrade the knuckles so at least I can shim the wheels and take the slop off that.
I use 0.1 shim at the rear end of the shaft. And then thightening the locknut just barely touch the wheel. So it can freely rotate. This is my solution about this wheel woble thing. I think gld is too early to be sold, they push to fast before finishing their development.
@@ilud2007 It was from my grinding as well so I might have spin it a bit too fast and it warped even more so no other solution but to replace the knuckle.
interesting initial thoughts on the kit. i hit the gear with a file quickly and that fixed it not ideal but fixed it i recommended people shim their wheels. take a close look at the front steering axles when inserted under a magnifying glass and you can see that they are not cut to the correct depth and have a J shape on the flats. seeing this more and more on designs nice counter point to the reviews, will be tempering and clarifying on my reviews in the future that servo is great, already had to use it once
The knuckles are probably more warped from my grinding as well. I might have spin the dremel a bit too fast and one of them warped even more so no other solution but to replace the knuckles. That was a big oopsie on my part.
@@ilud2007 Took a flat head file and turned the motor on then pushed lightly till the issue disappeared. ie i would stop the motor and rotate by hand it helps if you mark the flat spot as i found it only affected 2-3 teeth just to it very lightly
@@BeaversHobby oh you dremeled the knuckles? i ended up reaming them for a reason they seemed very fragile really hope it lives up to your expectations last thing i want to do is have a hand in having you waste your money if there is a 'buy Beaver a s-wave ESC' fund then let me know. i have always suspected the sensored motors help with drifting but would be interesting to see your feedback
Do you find the wheel rotation is not as smooth as it should be ? My drz gear box rotate nicely. When i compare with gld, it is not smooth as the competitor.
I had issues with DRZv1. But DRZv2 is simply out of space. I love it and it is exactly what I always have expected how a RWD should be. (Before building DRZv2 I watched some RUclips videos with point one should especially take care of, and hey, straight from the build I felt in love with the first drift). :-)
I saw that your car is lifting one side... here pls use rounded tires on front to fix the issue... when you your lwading wheel is probably not touching the ground so ride height as well ... keep it 2 mm low and all thise linkage better be moving smooth... then try again
Thanks for the tips. I'll try and change the tyres to rounded later. Strange enough the lifting doesn't seem to effect when I drive it. I tried setting it so it won't lift and it drives even worse. On other cars wheel lift would be a disaster though.
I don't know what that black plastic is on the ball caps but I have the same problem with alot of small scale cars I started 3d printing some in pla I print them tight then use your drill with a ball end method to loosen them to ideal tolerance so far they work much better and last much longer which is strange because pla is a pretty average plastic
When it's sensorless it's the same as Atomic. Same punch and everything. Well, the Atomic 3500KV is already a great motor, probably the best sensorless in the market.
I guess I was pretty lucky and didn't break anything so far. My front and rear knuckles were perfectly ok. I also have the same issue with the gear getting stuck at 1 part but I sanded it a little and it helped, though HRC is sending the replacement aluminum pinion to me soon. Pretty happy with mine actually, and unfortunate that you and it seems like many others who actually came across quality issues, which is surprising from GL Racing. I agree that the stock setup is actually pretty bad, it initially gave me toe in at max lock which made the car unstable and hard to drift, though after I tuned it myself and ignoring the instructions, the car handled really nicely. Also seems like your left wheel lifts and spins a little when turning right, while turning left the right wheel doesn't do the same, which means the suspension geometry from the left and right side isn't 100% the same, which could explain the understeering issue you have. Weirdly, your steering lock looks a little lesser than mine, but it could be just the camera angle.
Here's what I just learnt, if you buy it directly from HRC they will QC your car. It's not directly from the factory like buying from other vendors like I did.
@@BeaversHobby ooo! I'll look into it. Yes, I understood that about the HGD1, and as and an old RC enthusiast coming back to a new part of the hobby, the limited set-up might be perfect. In the process of tuning my MA020 AWD for drifting. Waiting on some tires, so that may be helpful as well
@@ImranShamsul Yep, keep it simple at first is a good idea. Since you already have the MA020 it will share some parts with HGD1 like diff, wheels, swing/universal shafts and springs so you can get parts for 1 and use them on both cars.
My personal preference is GLD but you will get more for your money with DRZ V2 because it has adjustable wheelbase chassis and aluminium front knuckles as standard.
Mini-Q is AWD (except the new one that's just came out and it's RWD... that one is awful) and HGD1 is RWD. So they are different. If you look for versatility then get Mini-Q Q7, it can do both drifting and touring. Otherwise if you want to drift only, don't get HGD1 either, get something like BMR-X, GLD or Atomic DRZ V2. These are much better cars than HGD1. The only reason to get HGD1 is that you only have access to Banggood and can't buy any of the cars I mentioned.
@@BeaversHobby OK. Thanks very much. and excuse my bad english. I only speak a little bit of school English. i'm from berlin germany. and i always have to work with the google translator. i'm a bit older. 54 years old. i just want to drift a little in my garage, just for fun. but would like to have a good car in order not to have to buy expensive tuning parts later. your videos are great so i thought you were the right one to answer my questions. as, thank you very much. Best regards
Combination of both. If I use this gyro with AGF A11CLS servo it won't shake, at least not this much. I have yet to try PowerHD G1 gyro in this car but that one filters out the wheel shake a lot with any servo.
I’m having a problem with my new force, just spins to the right even if I turn left. No front diff now but was doing it with a front diff, What’s my issue ?
@@BeaversHobby it started when it was stock so I took out front diff. Still doing it. So I locked the rear diff and it’s still doing it. It does it from a dead stop so I think it’s the rear end. But it will spin left even when it’s turned right. Won’t do donuts
@@scottyahol You'll have to check the drivetrain and suspension following stage 1 and 2. ruclips.net/video/TnhriaSSfSA/видео.html ruclips.net/video/QAGTXo70MmU/видео.html
I suppose you can use GLA ball caps instead. They are 3.0 and 2.5mm as well. hrcarena.store/item/GL-Racing-GLA-Ball-Joints-Sockets-set-G/6431885764984832
IW05 is way worse. GL, for the most part is good. The design is fantastic. It just got some manufacturing error but they are mostly crucial parts. Also GL has parts support so I can always fix the car although at a very high cost. I've torn down the WL RWD and I don't know if I'll ever rebuild it as RWD drift again. Sorry.
@@karenbaxter2706 MJ Modify. It's a shop based in Thailand but it has world wide shipping as far as I know. facebook.com/profile.php?id=100022777639028
I can see right away that there is too much weight over the back wheels. Experiment with chassis balance. And of course, the steering servo seems way too fast and not precise.
Yeah, servo isn't the most precise out there. I'll try something else if I have time. A lot of people pile everything at the back even behind the wheels. That is an interesting setup. I'll try to see which balance is more suitable for my driving.
I own this car from the first day it releases. It brings my sorrow more than joy. I love the rear suspension and gear box design, however the third gear is off center (plastic QC thing), Well GL soon releases a really well made metal third gear. Come on, I have to pay you a sticky car so I can pay upgrade parts to make it a car matches expectation. Before this, how things expected to work : you pay for the car, It will be a very smooth car, you pay extra for the parts to make it fancy. The front suspension is a mess. I don't mean try something epic but fail with no excuse. Those cambers tow ins are good, but during building it I just feel all the settings will be fall apart with no reason. I don't even have any reference point to ensure the car is symmetry Working with GLA, you will have a very clear concept what should you do next and where it bringing you to. Then you get a very stable and predictable car Working with GLR..... don't neet to messy around. It is a pan car, keep it simple, clean. Keep parts smooth, set the height, adjust the spings a little bit is better than good But GLD, you like my grand pa's tractor. I feel I have noting I could do with you......
I totally understand how you feel. This is not the quality I expect from GL Racing. They have... or rather had a good reputation before this. I've just bought some GLA parts to fix it and I'm surprised by the quality gap.
GL003-DMG. It's just a standard GL servo. I've got a much better and more precise servo that this but it won't fit the bracket. I might try the BlueArrow too. That one fits the bracket perfectly and also more precise.
Hey I got a k989 & i over tighten The tire and it kinda licked the diff and when I start to drive it won’t drive I span the tires little more and it’s moving but don’t seem to be as free, how can I make sure it’s back to normal?
@@BeaversHobby I got a 284131 actually.. & I seen your video about how it should spin loose and it wasn’t so I took it apart and followed your video sanded etc now all the diff components are spinning properly & seems to not be a locked diff anymore right? But seems to work now fine. Now that I got you here one more question about the diff what way should the bid gears go on both sides? That spin the shaft I see they can both go either way is there a certain way? (I got the rear setup correct but forgot how it was in the front, so I’m not sure if they run on opposite side of the drive shaft or both on the same side?)
No, it has its own problems too. I'd say no matter what you buy nowadays there will be a risk with bad QC and each car has its own kinks and problems but all of these new generation RWD, GLD, DRZ v2, XRX DPA are all good cars so you can't go wrong with either of these. Just choose the one you can get the easiest and have parts support that you can buy easily.
@@christianschluter2087 Compared to the new ones it's pretty bad. Steering angle isn't that much to be able to catch the drift easily. There are many people who got it and just can't get it working. DRZ v2 has much less failure rate. GLD has even lower failure rate and XRX DPA has probably the least problem right now.
4:08 - you are completely wrong for "Camber". For drifting you want NEGATIVE camber. If you start at zero and the wheels are vertical, then adding more camber will lean the wheel OUT at the top, making the car understeer more. That's not what you want for drifting! When a rotating hoop (wheel) in leaned over, it tends to roll in a circle, so when using negative camber the wheels are always trying to toe-in. That's why you add some toe-out to counteract and make the car track straight.
When I said "add camber" I didn't mean making it positive. I thought all drifter understand unanimously when we say add camber it means making it negative camber so the top of the wheel leans into the car but there it is... terminology. No one in their right mind would tune a drift car with positive camber. Sorry for the confusion anyway. I'll be more careful from now on.
@@BeaversHobby - whilst you know the correct context, it's surprising how many people get it wrong, especially those "stance" and "hella flush" idiots. Many well known RC channels get this confused as well, so my comment is mainly for information of other viewers and readers.
You are technically correct, especially when talking about full scale drift. In RC drift, it is very common to refer to negative camber as a positive number. It probably started as a misunderstanding, but now its kind of the convention. Good distinction to be aware of although I suspect that anyone who knows the difference between positive and negative camber would know that you don't ever want positive camber on a drift car (full scale or rc) front-end .
I haven't got that car yet due to availability in Europe. But from what I see they are on par with each other. BMR-X got its own issue at the diff. It keeps breaking. Quality on the other parts is really good though.
ESC doesn't really control lights but if you want to use the power from ESC that goes into the receiver then it's 5V. And you can use any 3mm LED with 100 Ohm resistor.
Skip to 3:37 for my thoughts. The representative from HRC (car designer) has reached out to me and I hope all the problems will be solved soon. Strange enough, GL, the manufacture of this car stayed silent through all of this. Thank you everyone for the support especially Dwight Kuhl for spreading the word and got HRC to response. (Sorry, my first statement from GL was a misunderstanding.) Edit: Here's what I just learnt, if you buy it directly from HRC they will QC your car. It's not directly from the factory like buying from other vendors like I did. Update 24/9/2020 : All thanks to HRC for resolving the problem quickly and professionally. They are now aware of the problem and hopefully the next batch is going to be up to GL standard.
Thanks for making all these really good informative videos. How does the GLD compare with your old favorite HGD1? facebook.com/beavershobby/posts/2551972355055077?comment_id=2551977928387853&reply_comment_id=2552043268381319&_fb_noscript=1 Also is the YE-0025 in the GLD the same as the one used on the HGD1? Thanks
They went with an interesting design that required, I assume, 3 bearings to get that steering working right but didn't put any money into the quality of the mechanical parts. On top of that, their site looks VERY professional, kind of misleading in my opinion and a waste of money, should have spent more money on the rnd and quality of their product
Yeah I'm facing the same problems, but I don't have a big name like yours, so they will never reach out to me. So this kit is belong in the trash bin. Trash product. Don't buy. Period.
Many of GLD users find problems with steering.
It seems it's not complete yet as you said.
Feeling your disappointment. But good to know that GL reached out to you.
Thank you for sharing your experience with as and for the very useful review. Keep up your great work Master Beaver 🙌👍
It's funny how the motor and gears sound is magnified once the body shell is put on. I never realized how big the sound difference is until seeing this.
That thing drifts amazingly!! Love the servo chatter, shows how much control it takes to really drift well
Damn your English has improved so much compared to 2 years ago
Not that it ever has been a problem
Thanks to everyone now I got more confidence to record it live.
@@BeaversHobby I can hear your frustration with the car and the QC issues 😔😔
@@ImranShamsul I was trying to suppress it, you know, keep it professional. 😅
@@BeaversHobby much respect and many hugs!
I feel your pain. I have one part I am trying to source a replacement, and cannot find it. There is not even an aluminum upgrade to replace it with. I really want to like this car, but getting the front end set up has been difficult.
Hi Beaver thanks for uploading this video, it really gives me input. I thought twice about buying this Kit. cause this will cost a lot of money. I don't want to be disappointed in the future.
The manufacture has recognized the problems. I believe they will improve it in the next batches. As of now, XRX DPA is the best because it seems like they have fixed all the problems already.
I think the same problem with you is just gear diff / gear a42. My ball end is good, there are no sign of break and nothing is stuck. About front wheel woble, i have it too. I add shim to reduce the woble.
If I shim it, it won't spin at all. I have to let it off so it can spin freely. I'll upgrade the knuckles so at least I can shim the wheels and take the slop off that.
I use 0.1 shim at the rear end of the shaft. And then thightening the locknut just barely touch the wheel. So it can freely rotate. This is my solution about this wheel woble thing. I think gld is too early to be sold, they push to fast before finishing their development.
@@ilud2007 It was from my grinding as well so I might have spin it a bit too fast and it warped even more so no other solution but to replace the knuckle.
Ohh no..Thanks for giving your honest opinion about this RWD chassis beaver..it's also kind of expensive rwd chassis for this quality. So sad
Love the channel. Subscribed! BTW what camera are u using to film?
Thanks. I use the Panasonic V770 camcorder.
Dude that was some serious driving! Great video and very informative. I just subscribed. Good job my man 👍🏻🍻
Awesome 👏 good to see you back @beaver best content and for tech in mini rc world
Hi Ihave a wl969 but most of the time it does not move forward and only moves backwards. If you know the reason, help me. Thank you.
Check the throttle trim on your transmitter, it might get stuck at reverse.
interesting initial thoughts on the kit. i hit the gear with a file quickly and that fixed it not ideal but fixed it
i recommended people shim their wheels. take a close look at the front steering axles when inserted under a magnifying glass and you can see that they are not cut to the correct depth and have a J shape on the flats. seeing this more and more on designs
nice counter point to the reviews, will be tempering and clarifying on my reviews in the future
that servo is great, already had to use it once
The knuckles are probably more warped from my grinding as well. I might have spin the dremel a bit too fast and one of them warped even more so no other solution but to replace the knuckles. That was a big oopsie on my part.
How do you file the gear? I've broken my gear because of that. Ihave to order a new diff gear.
@@ilud2007 Took a flat head file and turned the motor on then pushed lightly till the issue disappeared. ie i would stop the motor and rotate by hand
it helps if you mark the flat spot as i found it only affected 2-3 teeth
just to it very lightly
@@BeaversHobby oh you dremeled the knuckles? i ended up reaming them for a reason they seemed very fragile
really hope it lives up to your expectations last thing i want to do is have a hand in having you waste your money
if there is a 'buy Beaver a s-wave ESC' fund then let me know. i have always suspected the sensored motors help with drifting but would be interesting to see your feedback
Do you find the wheel rotation is not as smooth as it should be ? My drz gear box rotate nicely. When i compare with gld, it is not smooth as the competitor.
Atomic has left a sour taste for the DRZ2,spent 240 and then some,quality issues.
So they did not shake that after the DRZ 1 then. 🤔. I had some serious issue with that.
I had issues with DRZv1.
But DRZv2 is simply out of space. I love it and it is exactly what I always have expected how a RWD should be. (Before building DRZv2 I watched some RUclips videos with point one should especially take care of, and hey, straight from the build I felt in love with the first drift). :-)
Thomas Buser can you tell me which videos you watched sir
I saw that your car is lifting one side... here pls use rounded tires on front to fix the issue... when you your lwading wheel is probably not touching the ground so ride height as well ... keep it 2 mm low and all thise linkage better be moving smooth... then try again
Thanks for the tips. I'll try and change the tyres to rounded later. Strange enough the lifting doesn't seem to effect when I drive it. I tried setting it so it won't lift and it drives even worse. On other cars wheel lift would be a disaster though.
I don't know what that black plastic is on the ball caps but I have the same problem with alot of small scale cars I started 3d printing some in pla I print them tight then use your drill with a ball end method to loosen them to ideal tolerance so far they work much better and last much longer which is strange because pla is a pretty average plastic
I do the same but just squeeze with pliers
How's the ensotech motor compared to something like the atomic sensorless 3500kv?
When it's sensorless it's the same as Atomic. Same punch and everything. Well, the Atomic 3500KV is already a great motor, probably the best sensorless in the market.
I guess I was pretty lucky and didn't break anything so far. My front and rear knuckles were perfectly ok.
I also have the same issue with the gear getting stuck at 1 part but I sanded it a little and it helped, though HRC is sending the replacement aluminum pinion to me soon.
Pretty happy with mine actually, and unfortunate that you and it seems like many others who actually came across quality issues, which is surprising from GL Racing.
I agree that the stock setup is actually pretty bad, it initially gave me toe in at max lock which made the car unstable and hard to drift, though after I tuned it myself and ignoring the instructions, the car handled really nicely.
Also seems like your left wheel lifts and spins a little when turning right, while turning left the right wheel doesn't do the same, which means the suspension geometry from the left and right side isn't 100% the same, which could explain the understeering issue you have.
Weirdly, your steering lock looks a little lesser than mine, but it could be just the camera angle.
Here's what I just learnt, if you buy it directly from HRC they will QC your car. It's not directly from the factory like buying from other vendors like I did.
@@BeaversHobby Sounds completely stupid, they should QC their products when it leaves the factory.
@@ManicQuinn It sounds like the factory doesn't have QC procedure to me but well, this is what we get.
What battery to use on a 9500kv motor installed in a 1/28??, I recently got into these RCs so idk much about it, please help me!!
Well.... HGD1 it seems is the best option for now.
Or XRX DPA if you can find it. HGD1 is simple and easy to drive but it can't do much tuning.
@@BeaversHobby ooo! I'll look into it. Yes, I understood that about the HGD1, and as and an old RC enthusiast coming back to a new part of the hobby, the limited set-up might be perfect. In the process of tuning my MA020 AWD for drifting. Waiting on some tires, so that may be helpful as well
@@ImranShamsul Yep, keep it simple at first is a good idea. Since you already have the MA020 it will share some parts with HGD1 like diff, wheels, swing/universal shafts and springs so you can get parts for 1 and use them on both cars.
Hi beaver, which one do you think is good between gld and atomic drz?
My personal preference is GLD but you will get more for your money with DRZ V2 because it has adjustable wheelbase chassis and aluminium front knuckles as standard.
I have a question. Wich one is the better car. The MINI Q full tuned or the HGD1 full tuned. Can you help me please. Thanks for answer
Mini-Q is AWD (except the new one that's just came out and it's RWD... that one is awful) and HGD1 is RWD. So they are different. If you look for versatility then get Mini-Q Q7, it can do both drifting and touring. Otherwise if you want to drift only, don't get HGD1 either, get something like BMR-X, GLD or Atomic DRZ V2. These are much better cars than HGD1. The only reason to get HGD1 is that you only have access to Banggood and can't buy any of the cars I mentioned.
@@BeaversHobby
Hello. Thank you for your prompt reply. for drifting in the smallest of spaces! better awd or rwd? or it doesn't matter
@@Dinli901 RWD is better in a small space. It's slower and more manageable. Also the trend is going towards RWD too because it looks more realistic.
@@BeaversHobby
OK. Thanks very much. and excuse my bad english. I only speak a little bit of school English. i'm from berlin germany. and i always have to work with the google translator. i'm a bit older. 54 years old. i just want to drift a little in my garage, just for fun. but would like to have a good car in order not to have to buy expensive tuning parts later. your videos are great so i thought you were the right one to answer my questions. as, thank you very much. Best regards
@@Dinli901 My pleasure. Don't worry, I can understand you just fine.
Holy moly! The servo twitch!! Is that from the Gyro?
Combination of both. If I use this gyro with AGF A11CLS servo it won't shake, at least not this much. I have yet to try PowerHD G1 gyro in this car but that one filters out the wheel shake a lot with any servo.
I’m having a problem with my new force, just spins to the right even if I turn left. No front diff now but was doing it with a front diff, What’s my issue ?
Sounds like the diff only spins on one side. The diff is probably not working correctly or broken.
@@BeaversHobby rear is locked And no front diff.
@@scottyahol Check if all the wheels can spin smoothly especially the front. Tyres contact is also important, is this grip or drift?
@@BeaversHobby it started when it was stock so I took out front diff. Still doing it. So I locked the rear diff and it’s still doing it. It does it from a dead stop so I think it’s the rear end. But it will spin left even when it’s turned right. Won’t do donuts
@@scottyahol You'll have to check the drivetrain and suspension following stage 1 and 2. ruclips.net/video/TnhriaSSfSA/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/QAGTXo70MmU/видео.html
I have the same gear problem with my GLD. Also missing front upper arm pins! My knuckles seems fine. Not impressed with the QC.
That's horrible. Missing parts is the true nightmare.
Very true..Now I have to wait for another couple of weeks just for the stupid arrm pins, that if they're willing to send them. Sigh..
@@jeffrytirta Hopefully you'll get them quickly. Best of luck!
Yeah hopefully.. Thanks mate.
Now that's epic drifting
Our boy is so skilled that even a problemtic car can look like a mini 1000hp drift car
Could have been better... much better.
@@BeaversHobby I am much worse... Still learning to drift:D. Anyway keep up the Great videos man :D
@@MrJob91 XD Maybe more than a 1000HP SUPRA!XD
@@vorseil3230 I wonder why our friend papadakis has not uploaded for so long! his supra build was just done....
Do you have a source for the ball caps? I'm having trouble finding spares for this size.
GL racing made them. You can find at their store
I suppose you can use GLA ball caps instead. They are 3.0 and 2.5mm as well. hrcarena.store/item/GL-Racing-GLA-Ball-Joints-Sockets-set-G/6431885764984832
@@BeaversHobby Thanks Beaver. Can you confirm the ball size? I wasn't sure if the 3.0mm referred to the ball or thread size.
@@juggerd2282 Yes, 3.0mm and 2.5mm are the ball head sizes.
What is worse quality the firelap iw05 or the gl racing gld? Please can you do an update on the wltoys rwd project
IW05 is way worse. GL, for the most part is good. The design is fantastic. It just got some manufacturing error but they are mostly crucial parts. Also GL has parts support so I can always fix the car although at a very high cost.
I've torn down the WL RWD and I don't know if I'll ever rebuild it as RWD drift again. Sorry.
@@BeaversHobby You should sell the wltoys rwd
@@karenbaxter2706 There's a shop selling that already. I glad it does because I don't have the manufacturing power or time to do it.
@@BeaversHobby what is the shop called
@@karenbaxter2706 MJ Modify. It's a shop based in Thailand but it has world wide shipping as far as I know. facebook.com/profile.php?id=100022777639028
TOTALLY AWESOME!!!!
🛣🚘👍👍💯😎
does the k989 lipo battery fit the GLD
It's really tight and you can't close the battery door but yes, it'll fit.
I can see right away that there is too much weight over the back wheels. Experiment with chassis balance. And of course, the steering servo seems way too fast and not precise.
Yeah, servo isn't the most precise out there. I'll try something else if I have time.
A lot of people pile everything at the back even behind the wheels. That is an interesting setup. I'll try to see which balance is more suitable for my driving.
I own this car from the first day it releases. It brings my sorrow more than joy.
I love the rear suspension and gear box design, however the third gear is off center (plastic QC thing), Well GL soon releases a really well made metal third gear.
Come on, I have to pay you a sticky car so I can pay upgrade parts to make it a car matches expectation.
Before this, how things expected to work : you pay for the car, It will be a very smooth car, you pay extra for the parts to make it fancy.
The front suspension is a mess. I don't mean try something epic but fail with no excuse. Those cambers tow ins are good, but during building it I just feel all the settings will be fall apart with no reason. I don't even have any reference point to ensure the car is symmetry
Working with GLA, you will have a very clear concept what should you do next and where it bringing you to. Then you get a very stable and predictable car
Working with GLR..... don't neet to messy around. It is a pan car, keep it simple, clean. Keep parts smooth, set the height, adjust the spings a little bit is better than good
But GLD, you like my grand pa's tractor. I feel I have noting I could do with you......
I totally understand how you feel. This is not the quality I expect from GL Racing. They have... or rather had a good reputation before this. I've just bought some GLA parts to fix it and I'm surprised by the quality gap.
Hey do you have any contact information? I got a k969 rc car like 2 years ago and it stopped working and I don't know what to do.
You can contact me on facebook facebook.com/beavershobby
Or you can e-mail me at beavershobby@gmail.com .
@@BeaversHobby yay thanks
What kind of servo is that?
Very quick response 😳
GL003-DMG. It's just a standard GL servo. I've got a much better and more precise servo that this but it won't fit the bracket. I might try the BlueArrow too. That one fits the bracket perfectly and also more precise.
Hey I got a k989 & i over tighten The tire and it kinda licked the diff and when I start to drive it won’t drive I span the tires little more and it’s moving but don’t seem to be as free, how can I make sure it’s back to normal?
Loosen the wheels and you can nudge them with a finger to see if they can turn without resistance.
@@BeaversHobby I got a 284131 actually.. & I seen your video about how it should spin loose and it wasn’t so I took it apart and followed your video sanded etc now all the diff components are spinning properly & seems to not be a locked diff anymore right? But seems to work now fine. Now that I got you here one more question about the diff what way should the bid gears go on both sides? That spin the shaft I see they can both go either way is there a certain way? (I got the rear setup correct but forgot how it was in the front, so I’m not sure if they run on opposite side of the drive shaft or both on the same side?)
@@adrianau4246 The crown gear will go on a different side between front and back. Normally it's on the left for the front and right for the back.
@@BeaversHobby great you Understand me! thank you so much man! I really appreciate this
@@adrianau4246 My pleasure.
Amazing
Hi.
Is the DRZV2 a better chassis?
No, it has its own problems too. I'd say no matter what you buy nowadays there will be a risk with bad QC and each car has its own kinks and problems but all of these new generation RWD, GLD, DRZ v2, XRX DPA are all good cars so you can't go wrong with either of these. Just choose the one you can get the easiest and have parts support that you can buy easily.
@@BeaversHobby thx for answer
@@christianschluter2087 My pleasure.
@@BeaversHobby ist the old drz OK ore is IT bad vs gld ore drzv2
@@christianschluter2087 Compared to the new ones it's pretty bad. Steering angle isn't that much to be able to catch the drift easily. There are many people who got it and just can't get it working. DRZ v2 has much less failure rate. GLD has even lower failure rate and XRX DPA has probably the least problem right now.
ออฟหน้า ออฟหลัง เท่าไรครับพี่ ล้อกับยางของยี่ห้ออะไรครับ
หน้าแคบออฟ 1.5 หลังกว้างออฟ 0 ครับ
ยางตอนนี้เป็น DS Racing LF-3 จริง ๆ อยากใส่ LF-5 แต่ยังไม่ได้ซื้อ
@@BeaversHobby ขอบคุณครับ
พี่ครับ ล้อยี่ห้ออะไรครับ ลายสวยมากเลยครับ
@@นายวรพลสุณีแก้ว ของ Mini-Z เองเลยครับ สำหรับ Nissan GT-R ล้อรหัส kyosho MDH010BK ครับ เดี๋ยวนี้ไม่น่าหาได้แล้วนอกจากซื้อพร้อมกับบอดี้ Nissan GT-R แบบ AWD
4:08 - you are completely wrong for "Camber". For drifting you want NEGATIVE camber. If you start at zero and the wheels are vertical, then adding more camber will lean the wheel OUT at the top, making the car understeer more. That's not what you want for drifting!
When a rotating hoop (wheel) in leaned over, it tends to roll in a circle, so when using negative camber the wheels are always trying to toe-in. That's why you add some toe-out to counteract and make the car track straight.
When I said "add camber" I didn't mean making it positive. I thought all drifter understand unanimously when we say add camber it means making it negative camber so the top of the wheel leans into the car but there it is... terminology.
No one in their right mind would tune a drift car with positive camber.
Sorry for the confusion anyway. I'll be more careful from now on.
@@BeaversHobby - whilst you know the correct context, it's surprising how many people get it wrong, especially those "stance" and "hella flush" idiots. Many well known RC channels get this confused as well, so my comment is mainly for information of other viewers and readers.
@@johncoops6897 Thanks for the info. I'll consider putting some captions on in my next videos so the this will be easier to understand for everyone.
You are technically correct, especially when talking about full scale drift. In RC drift, it is very common to refer to negative camber as a positive number. It probably started as a misunderstanding, but now its kind of the convention. Good distinction to be aware of although I suspect that anyone who knows the difference between positive and negative camber would know that you don't ever want positive camber on a drift car (full scale or rc) front-end .
บอดี้แบบนี้สเกลเท่าไรครับ ยี่ห้ออะไรครับ จะหาใส่มั่งครับ ขอบคุณครับ
เสกล 1/27 ครับ เป็นของ Kyosho Mini-Z มีตัวล๊อกตรงกับรถเลย แต่รถมันกว้างพอสมควรเลยหาบอดี้ยาก ถ้าซื้อโครงแต่งให้ยืดฐานล้อได้ จะสามารถเอาโมเดล 1/24 พวกทามิย่ามาครอบได้ แล้วก็โมแม่เหล็กมาติด คล้าย ๆ แบบนี้ ruclips.net/video/-kKLbRNrDxY/видео.html
@@BeaversHobby ถ้าผมหารุ่นเดียวกับในคลิปนี้ใส่ได้เลยใช่ไหมครับ
@@นายวรพลสุณีแก้ว ขอโทษด้วยครับ ทีแรกผมดูผิดคลิป(นึกว่าเป็น XRX โครงกว้าง) คันนี้ GLD เป็นรถโครงแคบ ฐานล้อ 94มิล ดังนั้นเอาบอดี้เคียวโชฐานล้อ 94 มิลใส่ได้เลย พวก Nissan GT-R, R32,33,34,35 หรือ Toyota GT86 ได้หมด ตามคลิปนี้ (R35) ก็ใส่ได้ตรง ๆ เลยครับ อย่างที่เห้นนี่ล่ะ บอดี้ผมไม่ได้โมอะไรเลย
@@BeaversHobby ขอบคุณครับ
@@นายวรพลสุณีแก้ว ยินดีครับ
Does BMR-X better than GLD?
I haven't got that car yet due to availability in Europe. But from what I see they are on par with each other. BMR-X got its own issue at the diff. It keeps breaking. Quality on the other parts is really good though.
I want to have that car
Awesome！！！
❤️❤️❤️❤️
salve mi sai diere perchre la mia glr gt ruota su se stesso
Check tyres contact, diff and also if the suspension can move freely first. If you have a gyro on, check if the direction is correct.
What lights can u use on that esc ?
ESC doesn't really control lights but if you want to use the power from ESC that goes into the receiver then it's 5V. And you can use any 3mm LED with 100 Ohm resistor.
Skip to 3:37 for my thoughts.
The representative from HRC (car designer) has reached out to me and I hope all the problems will be solved soon. Strange enough, GL, the manufacture of this car stayed silent through all of this.
Thank you everyone for the support especially Dwight Kuhl for spreading the word and got HRC to response. (Sorry, my first statement from GL was a misunderstanding.)
Edit: Here's what I just learnt, if you buy it directly from HRC they will QC your car. It's not directly from the factory like buying from other vendors like I did.
Update 24/9/2020 : All thanks to HRC for resolving the problem quickly and professionally. They are now aware of the problem and hopefully the next batch is going to be up to GL standard.
Sorry for asking this late. Does HRC conduct QC on all model car kits?
@@cityofplant As far as I know, if you buy GLD from HRC Arena you'll get QC from HRC. I don't know about other models thought.
Can I buy it 😢 I need one
Check with your local GL Racing dealer or HRC. hrcarena.store/item/GLD-(HRC-Arena-Edition)-Drift-Car-Kit/5046698636345344
@@BeaversHobby nice but you need motor and sorvo and everything
@@BeaversHobby do you have any whit motor and everything on
@@sixtenstarlander5258 No, there's no kit with everything included. You'll have to spec it up by your preference.
Thanks for making all these really good informative videos.
How does the GLD compare with your old favorite HGD1?
facebook.com/beavershobby/posts/2551972355055077?comment_id=2551977928387853&reply_comment_id=2552043268381319&_fb_noscript=1
Also is the YE-0025 in the GLD the same as the one used on the HGD1?
Thanks
ne sarei molto grado
They went with an interesting design that required, I assume, 3 bearings to get that steering working right but didn't put any money into the quality of the mechanical parts. On top of that, their site looks VERY professional, kind of misleading in my opinion and a waste of money, should have spent more money on the rnd and quality of their product
The slider assembly itself is awesome. The knuckles are pure garbage. This rather defeats the point of having good steering system.
😭crying
Yeah I'm facing the same problems, but I don't have a big name like yours, so they will never reach out to me. So this kit is belong in the trash bin. Trash product. Don't buy. Period.
Contact the shop or HRC directly. They should help you.