K-Seal Full Test - Purchase options, Instructions & Results
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- K-Seal review.
Full test of k-seal: cylinder head repair, cracked cylinder head, engine block repair, blown gasket, and water (coolant) leaks.
You may never know what the problem was, because it does repair coolant leaks, from radiator leaks to broken cylinder heads, cylinder head gaskets, and cracked engine blocks.
If the engine is consuming water, or if your car is losing water, this product provides a permanent repair.
Funded by the UK government, Brighton University Engineering division has built a test laboratory, in order to study the application of the product and to establish its limitations and long term effects.
Their initial task was to establish that K-Seal meets ASTM D-3147 :
Standard Test Method for Testing Stop-Leak Additives for Engine Coolants.
Designed in the UK and produced in America, distribution networks have also recently been established in France and Germany.
No doubt, tomorrow....... 'the world'.
This video provides general advice on using K-Seal in a real world scenario, using a 1.9 lire Diesel engine that was consuming water (coolant).
Website
www.kseal.com/
Engine Tuning
fuelmapper.com/
Good news... or sort of (from the thread perspective).
I found out where the water is going.
... out of the overflow pipe.
I'd noticed I was losing water, but the exhaust wasn't steaming.
Instead, the cooling system is gassing.
The system is pressurised when cold, and when removing the cap, there is a release of pressure and a lot of gurgling.
I left the engine to get to temperature.
When the thermostat opened, a bubble would be produced every few seconds, lifting the water to the top of the tank.
The bubble would then rise to the surface, allowing the water level to recede.
A few seconds later the cycle repeats.
I left it for long enough to ensure that this was continual IE. not just an air pocket.
I'll drop the coolant, and replace it... maybe that will fix it.
Has anybody else experienced this?
EDIT
Just reading up... it seems others have found it can take 20 minutes to clear, and the heater should be opened to hot, to maximise fluid movement through the system.
I'll report back after trying this.
At this point in time... I'm guessing head gasket failure.
If so, it may simply be bad luck.
The symptoms are completely different to the fault last year.
I'm running with the cap at the second lock position, so the pressure can't build up.
Apparently, I need to run with rich mix of antifreeze
How's your car holding up? Do you still have the same problem you described or did you find out a solution?
I've been lazy.
I really must contact K-Seal and ask them if they can send me another bottle.
It's definitely a different problem to the original, because the original was not gassing.
However, they owe me, cause I reckon this thread has put a lot of business their way.
So I'm still driving around with the cap on its first notch... but I don't go far so it's sort of okay.
I'll try and find time to write to them today.
I'm having this same problem
So it didn't fix your head gasket problem?
@@fallenone6 It did, for about six years.
Whether a new problem occurred, I don't know.
We used this stuff to fix a blown head gasket 2 yrs ago on a 2004 cruze. And its STILL working
Nice long term report AK :)
USED THIS TO FIX A CRACKED BLOCK ON A 3.8 CHRYSLER MINIVAN. IT WORKED! BEEN DRIVING HUNDREDS OF MILES. HEAD HAD CRACKED FROM ANTI-FREEZE CARELESSNESS. YAY K-SEAL!
Nice!
I can honestly say this k-seal truly works...I have a 1997 ford expedition 4.6 that had a real bad smell of antifreeze and smoke was coming out my vents. I brought a new heater core to replace the old one; but after pouring the k-seal all the smell of antifreeze and the smoke completely stopped..so I returned my new heater core and got my money back...only took about 10 mins to work...thank you for the video
That's great news anthony... money saved!
Just added to my 98 ford expendtion
Engine turning
Just next product that I am suggesting does have anything to do with this video but I felt obligated to suggest a remarkable project that I have used in the past on five different vehicles and I put it to the test and it was amazing how it did not blow my heads the particles called prolong engine treatment
I see this comment is 5 years old. Any update as to how long it stopped the leak for? I just put this in my 2005 Jeep cherokee with a leaking heater core fixed leak. Had to use 2 bottles Hoping the repair holds
Just a update to anyone thinking of using this i used it over a year ago on a Vauxhall corsa 1.2 with the start of a head gasket going it hasn’t used any water at all and the car is still running great
That's a useful report (considering that you nothing) :)
Engine Tuning go through your comments I am Phil , but changed my RUclips name as I thought it suits the world of RUclips
Cheers Phil ... we are all still learning ;)
@@Phil-1969 hey Phil I have a Vauxhall corsa 1.2 just debating on whether to you use k seal
Still working? Thinking of using on my Corsa? It's using all the water on 80mile journey.
Just tried it on my 2016 BMW 740i and it worked and saved me some big time money! Last year I had my whole entire coolant system replaced under warranty. So I was furious seeing that puddle in my driveway. BMWs are known for they coolant issues and glad I went to get this and it fixed my problem. Thanks for this video!
Wow! That's interesting.
I wonder where the leak is (was)?
I guess that it must have been a rigid leak, rather than flexible.
If it was rigid, then it is likely that your 'rich status' will be maintained :D
@@EngineTuning🤔 don't quit understand your comment whats the difference between a rigid and a flexible leak
@@mixz9929 I was talking about O rings against a cracked head, or gasket failure ;)
I just used the small bottle of K-seal yesterday in my 1998 Land Rover Discovery, to seal up a split seam in the stock, brass radiator. No leak today. I bypassed the heater core for this treatment by hooking the heater hoses together to avoid plugging up the heater core. Temp is perfect, heat is blistering hot. It will certainly do until I have the time to remove and repair the radiator. I'm happy with it.
Thanks for the feedback Ian :)
correct haven't changed coolant, i knew about kseal before your video but your experiment convinced me to try it, thanks from New Zealand
400 people on amazon are very satisfied by the product so I wouldn't worry about a thumb down. :-)
Yes you are right... and we have a 10:1 thumbs up ratio on this vid :D
it worked for my opel astra as well. and mine had a bigger gasket failure so that the water started boiling and overheated and had white steam out of the exhaust
That's because it really works, that's why.
@@EngineTuning they hatin that’s all
@@KYNGMusix I think that you are probably right :D
I used K-Seal with some trepidation after reading all the reviews and it stopped my water pump leak COMPLETELY ... has run at perfect operating temp ever since and I had been losing 2-3 cups of fresh coolant overnight into a container EVERY DAY ... UPDATE: has been working perfectly for the last 6 months including 615 miles put on it during Hurricane Florence ...
I did the same exact thing, was going from Mississippi, to Iowa .. I would check my fluids, along the way I noticed the water pump was leaking. It is a time consuming repair, not easily accessible, and you need to remove a bit of stuff (not something I could afford to take to a shop, and I lacked to tools on me to replace it myself).
I kept having to top it up at every gas station with distilled water, however I knew Iowa was cold that time of year, so I found a Walmart. Bought a jug of undiluted, seen kseal right beside it, figured at best it would probably just leak less, I never had to top it up the rest of the trip.
It lasted for about 2.5 years (kinda out of sight out of mind thing), I was up in North Dakota when it finally failed, and I replaced it in the parking lot of the hotel I was at.
This stuff works. I had a 2009 Subaru Legacy which are known for blowing head gaskets(i didnt find out until years after i purchased it). I put in kseal and followed the directions to a T. Never leaked again for the next 9 months i had the car. Was told a new head gasket would be 1500$. The kseal was like 11$. Would recommend.
Nice report Jeff.
Thanks for taking the time :)
So glad Google showed me K seal solution when I was searching for the cause of milky oil cap. Gonna buy this tomorrow
This worked for my coolant leak. Thank you for posting this vid as I was about to disassemble my coolant system.
Nice!
Great video! Very informative. I couldn't find the difference between the regular and the ultimate anywhere on the internet until I found this video. Thank you!
Thank you for your kind words :)
Report back, on your experience ;)
I used this product in my 2000 Ford Ranger 2 weeks ago. It had gotten a decent leak in the timing cover (about a drop every 5 seconds) and replacing the timing cover on this vehicle is a huge huge pain. I put a half bottle of K-seal in the radiator and another half in the overflow reservoir. My problem cleared up instantly. A week later, I did a coolant flush. During my coolant flush, I noticed that my overflow reservoir was completely clogged by the K-seal (or possibly just dirt), and that the whole half bottle of K-seal I put in there was still in the reservoir. Personally, there was already a lot of dirt in this reservoir, so I cannot really say K-seal was for certain the cause of the block. This did show me however that I did not need a whole bottle, but closer to half to fix my leak. I removed the reservoir, cleaned it, unclogged it, and finished my coolant flush. Still no leaks. If I were to give advice from my one time experience I would say:
1: put it in the radiator not the reservoir
2: start out with half or even a third of the bottle, especially for small leaks. There is no reason to put in more than you need to, and doing so increases the risk of any other side effects of the K-seal
Throughout the 2 weeks my car was driving fine, no overheating. After my coolant flush it is still doing the same with no leaks. I do recommend this product to fix issues that are otherwise expensive or complicated to fix.
Thanks for your report Tyler.
The detail adds to our knowledge :)
K-Seal really works folks. I own a 94 Toyota Celica with over 335,000 miles on it and it smoked like a freight train and after i used a 1/2 bottle of K-Seal and drove it for 15 minutes..... NO SMOKE AT ALL! I SWEAR BY THIS STUFF. IT REALLY WORKS!
Nice win ... and an engine that has delivered big style!
I wonder how many more miles it has under its belt :)
Amazing product. Had a small leak from the thermostat housing on my wife's 2006 Fiesta. Fixed completely in three minutes!
Nice!
I know this is old video but I was skeptical at first but I tried it on my daily driver 2000 blazer that had a leaking head gasket and it's been 30k miles since then and works awesome no overheating issue even in extreme traffic & heat saved me over $1000.00 easy
Thanks for your report Rob
My Berlingo is also still running fine :)
I have a 1997 Freightliner FL70 16 ton wrecker. It had a bad external head gasket leak to where after a couple of hours would need a gallon of antifreeze. You could watch the flow of coolant run, not ooz, but run out of where the head meets the block. After 5 minutes or so the leak went down considerably, and now after 40 minutes it is just about gone. I will continue ti run the engine at around 1500 rpms. After an hour it had sealed the leak about 95%. I am not sure that the reason for a continue small leak was due to the size of the cooling system or if it had to use so much of the product in other parts of the cooling system. I will be leaving it in the system and running it for about 500 miles and see what happens. I will try to keep you posted
Thanks for that interesting report.
It looks like your problem is fairly extreme.
Maybe even worth investing in another bottle, if the short term running doesn't fix it.
Good luck to you.
Thanks for this video, I'm just about to use K-Seal on my Mini R58 Coupé after being quoted £800 for a fix. I was a little worried about how the product dealt with a turbo unit but Colin @ K-Seal assured me (with diagrams & advice) as long as it's a water based coolant system this works. So fingers crossed, if I don't report back today it's worked!
My 2002 F-150 with a 5.4L Triton engine had a slow coolant leak, but was slowly getting worse. Mechanic diagnosed it as a bad gasket under the Intake Manifold, just under the passenger side of the cross over pipe (the other side of this pipe holds the thermostat). Estimate to tear down and replace the gasket at his shop was $950 but with a rusty body and over 276k miles, it wasn't worth that amount to me to have it fixed properly. I read a lot about radiator stop leak products, and decided to give K-seal a try, partly based on this review by Engine Tuning and some others. I added the K-seal into my overflow tank and the leak was stopped after about 15 minutes of idling and slow driving, and the coolant that had leaked and puddled up in the crevices on top of the block has finally baked off so no more coolant smell in the garage after I shut it down. Heater still blows hot air, engine still warms up quickly, so no ill effects in the heater core or thermostat so far. It's been about 10 days now, and I'll come back and post an edit to this comment if anything goes awry in the future. I'd definitely recommend this product to a friend with a similar situation.
Nice report Terf ... thanks for taking the time to share it with the community.
From my experience, you fault has already been fixed, and should give you no further grief.
2004 VW Touran 2.0PD tdi common problem is 'porous head' or hairline cracks that develop within as low as 30k.
I bought a cheap 2.0PD tdi @ 90k miles. 6 months later coolant level flashes up, top up to see how many miles before it happens again and its about 5k miles. Do this for a few years as no loss in performance and hope it wont get any worse. It did and was getting low coolant every 1k miles.
Stuck a bottle of K-seal in at 120k, lasted until 160k. Coolant flushed at 160k and another bottle of K-Seal put in & now at 190k.
New head and labour would have mechanically totalled the car straight after I bought it. K-seal has essentially meant the car has covered double the miles....it works!
Very good informative post.
Thanks James :)
Just had this put in my car by the AA due to a coolant leak. Car is brill now and no probs. For £14, it’s a permanent solution and would have cost me a fortune to fix in a garage. 😊
Good news!
Thanks for the feedback Sharron :)
Worked for me in my 1995 Honda Prelude 186k miles that was spewing anti freeze out of the radiator. I'm amazed. Great product. Thanks for video.
Great news!
Evidently K-Seal also saves :D
Have you considered subscribing?
The new RUclips rules are going to hit smaller help channels like mine.
They are demanding 1,000 subscribers per year.
Done! I loathe what they are doing. Sad shame. Be well!!
Thanks for that.
Everything looks bleak :(
The progress 6 years ago.
Wonder how good are they at it now in 2023.
Thanks for the video and specially a very important msg at the end, 'don't forget to change the engine oil after this done' 💛
Wow! I'm glad it worked! That doesn't happen too often! Great vid!
Nice!....... great news.
I guess otherwise, a mechanical fix would have been v. expensive ;)
It may not have worked for this guy but it's worked on two of my cars + my brother in law's that each tried it one at a time last 3-6 months.
First car we used it on (my in law) was a big SUV GMC model with a thirst for coolant without a puddle. It was going out the exchaust. (Head gasket). Within 20 min the leak stoped and now after 6 months still holding.
Second car was a 2000 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 L (6 Cyl). Same problem. Using coolant and going out the exchaust. Same luck with this car. Aprox 4 months later still not using antifreeze.
Last car I used K-Seal on was my 2013 Toyota Prius V two. It was throwing 3 error codes (misfire on cyl 2 and 3) and water pump 'over revolution'. As id didnt have a radiator cap it was a little more difficult. I had to remove and empty the overflow container, put back and fill with K-Seal only. (Rinsed out the bottle witha little coolant to geteverything.
Toyota Prius engines stop and go at their own will so idling is out of the question. I drove it on a highway for about 10 min, then freeway for about 15 and finally highway another 10 min or so around 45-50 mph. I did not reset the check engine light and after about 10-15 min of driving it went out by itself. All error codes gone except misfire on 3 which is a permanent code ill need help turning off.
The car went from running extremely rough to nice and smoth, like the sowing machine sound it normally has.
/Daniel, Arkansas
That's an excellent report.
Thanks Daniel, for taking the time to share it with everyone :)
An old turkey baster works great for removing some coolant from the overflow reservoir, saves from having to remove the entire thing
Like a big pipette!
It's a good idea, and worth acquiring.
Nice share Terry :)
OMG already a 'thumbs down'! (3 days 21 views 2 thumbs up & 1 thumbs down!!!!!!!!)
It must be a car mechanic...... sorry if this product eliminates work (seriously).... but this is technology... and it eliminates expenditure that is better spent putting food on the table, or paying the bills.
In the case of a transport company, the implications could be felt across the economy..... not only for the transport company, but the businesses that are waiting for their deliveries.
Definitely, way too early for a 'thumbs down'.
Let's see if this fix is truly permanent before voting it down.
In the meantime..... the problem is solved.
That's a 'thumbs up' win!
My dad owned a shop all my life and he was and is a really good and trustworthy mechanic.. More than once he suggested the use of products like this not only to myself and other friends and family but to customers who either don't have the money to throw at an aging car or that just don't want to waste money on a car that they don't plan on driving forever.
In fact I remember that I had a leak in my cooling system somewhere and he kept this stuff in his toolboxes that looked like really dark grey clay. It would crumble into pieces with a little force and he'd have me put it straight into my radiator. It would cycle through the engine and somewhere along the way it found the leaks and stopped them up pretty much completely. I never again had to worry about my coolant level or my engine running hot. It was weird stuff too because it never had a package or any kind of labeling. It was always in his toolboxes just kinda half-ass wrapped up in some brown paper like from a paper bag or something.. I never thought to ask him what it was but now that I remember it my curiosity is thru the roof.
This is certainly not taking work away from any mechanics though. No matter how good a "stop leak" product says it is or even how somebody perceives it, the problem is still there. The gasket is still blown, the system still has the hole(s), and the root of the problem is still there. These are never permanent fixes. I sure tried to treat them like they were when I was a kid but the adult in me knows better. They can really be awesome temporary fixes, and even temporary fixes can take care of a problem for quite a while... but if the vehicle is going to be driven endlessly this repair will eventually be necessary regardless.
Engine Tuning sometimes the thumbs down is indicative of the s***** video recording or quality not necessarily towards the product. Like I just don't like this video because I don't like this guy, nor his voice, and he takes a really long time to explain something that takes a minute. So yea, thumbs down
I know.
The kid who held the phone got a ribbing for it being 'shaky cam' :)
However, in technical videos, it's the content that reigns supreme
The video has just made 100k views, and audience retention is great.
... so he has had the last laugh.
Thanks for your feedback on the downvote ... its very much appreciated.
Thank u for posting this . you said you talk to the makers of k. Seal. So u really did a lot of research . thank. Why did you pick this project ?
Any stop leak type product is going to get some down votes. It is mainly due to the fact that years ago radiators were all metal. There were sealer products for them out there that worked great. But then the plastic radiators came around. It took years before the sealer companies started coming out with sealers that were safe for modern radiators. The end result was many people trashing their engines because of this. Also a lot of modern sealers use a type of silicate that requires you to replace all coolant with pure distilled water. You then add the product and don't just bring it up to temp you leave the sealer and water in their for at least 3 days worth of driving before draining and replacing coolant. Big suprise most people just dump it into the coolant and nothing happens.
SO there are a lot of people very skeptical of these sealers/leak stoppers.
Just added Ultimate (full-bottle, diluted in 1/3 gallon distilled water, used half the mixture, thermostat left in, heater core not bypassed) to the over-pressurizing (expansion bottle fills up and bubbles over, hard top hose) cooling system of an ‘03 Forester. Doing the first heat cycle now. Long drive ahead. Stay tuned for updates.
Will do!
:)
first and foremost your tag is very much appreciated by me and i am pretty sure by others
who have been going through these problems.
I have used "K seal ultimate" for a BMW E46 diesel from 2002, the car was not drivable anymore due to
-overheating (even the AC fans were on to try to cool it down after a trip of 10 min.)
-coolant circulation was blocked, i guess due to back pressure.
-overwhelming white smoke from the exaust, felt like a steam engine
-heater was not blowing hot air, possible heater matrix failure
-but i had no power loss
...
so after doing my research, I have come up with your page and i was convinced to pour into my
expansion tank,
i have put the front to the ramps, i felt this would help to reach to engine block with k seal,
after i have warmed up the engine to operating temprature, I have poured it in,
it took a while to start up the coolant circulation but it started circulating,
i have kept it on idle for 30 min of so with cap off, i have shut off the engine and restarted and run on idle for 10 min,
everything went back to normal,
-normal coolant circulation
-disappearence of the white smoke, but i do need to mention that this took a while
-hot and cold air from the heater
then i took it for gentle ride doing 30km, no coolant loss, all was ok,
the day after (yesterday), i have done 150km on the highway,
temprature stayed in the middle during the trip,
but the coolant light came on again at the end;
so today i have topped up coolant to the system,
so consequently it worked for my car!
i could put it back on the road,
but what could say for;
-coolant loss
-and i do see soapy stuff with copper particles in the coolant,
do you recommend a coolant flush?
Best
Very good report Emre El Turco :)
Personally, I left the k-seal in.
It does remain active.
My engine developed a different fault, when I used cold start spray to start it, one very cold morning.
I subsequently added 5% petrol and 1% acetone to the diesel.
This solved the starting problem in winter.
The new fault caused bubbling and fumes in the coolant - not the white smoke out of the exhaust.
It was clearly a different fault.
To prevent over pressuring, I ran the car with the cap on the first notch ie. not sealed
The k-seal gradually shut the bubbling off, and that was it ... fixed.
I could then run the coolant system under pressure.
So I had two bites of the cherry.
Therefore, if you drop the coolant, you should keep it in a container and mark up the container with a permanent marker.
As for flushing?
I don't know, because I didn't flush the system.
It probably should have been done before adding k-seal.
However, you could try it.
At least you know that you can fix your motor.
:)
I watched many videos on K-seal and decided to use it in my 96 4runner 3.4 motor, hope it work. Great video
So how did it do? You probably had a cracked head.
This stuff works great for sealing a leaking heater core. And yes it can be used more than once without clogging your cooling system. I typically, have to add a new bottle every 4-5 thousand miles
Nice feedback Matt ... thanks for taking the time :)
Its worked on a 1995 V6 Mustang when nothing else would. Water leak from what looked like a pin hole in aluminium casing behind water pump. Been 3 weeks so far and not losing water. Engine now heats up quickly and temp is on the lower side of the half way mark as before it was on the high side. Heater is still working fine. Seeing as the product only works when it comes in contact with the outside air I cannot see how it would clog when suspended in water. Fingers crossed that it lasts ..It did seal the leak within 2 minutes.Really pleased with the out come. We live in the UK and Mustang parts are expensive.
That's a wonderful post Gra :)
While the engineering detail may well be the same...
... it is great to have that confirmed ;)
... particularly when the motor may be unusual, and on the rare side.
Let's hope that it stays fixed :)
At the moment there is no antifreeze in the system .I will add some at a later date. If you don't hear from me it is still working. I know there are haters out there mainly mechanics who run small garages. Then there are those that doubt it. I tried JB weld on the casing prior to using KSeal.That didnt work at all, although it has worked for 10 years on a crack in my aircooled VW engine. Fingers crossed for KSeal tho..
Ok 2 months on and have added antifreeze. I only added antifreeze because the temperature was going up slightly and I wanted to lower it to the same as it was when we bought the car in 2008. As for the Leak well that is still cured, not losing any water at all. The car is getting up to working temperature quickly rather than taking what seemed like an age.Checked the water in radiator and took a little out to check that the antifreeze hadn't caused any sludge. It is still as it was prior to antifreeze being added plus the copper particles are still floating freely. I will add, I have no connection with KSeal other than being a satisfied customer. It was recommended by a local accessory shop as being the best out of the 3 he stocked. It was mid priced . Will keep you informed, if you don't hear from me it is still working.. Great stuff what else can I say. I am happy to endorse this product.
Great report... thanks for the feedback :)
I had a bad water leak on my ford fiesta diesel 1.4tdci it went from top limit to bottom limit on the expansion tank only driving 12 or so miles so input a bottle of k seal in and no leaks so saved me a lot of money ☺
Nice report Paul.
Thanks for taking the time to share ... I'm sure that others in the community will find it helpful.
:)
Thanks , I have Ford KA 1.2 , I’m losing water and topping up once a week ! The water in the container us looking muddy / dirty I’m guessing head gasket ! Do you pour directly into the water/coolant container . I’ve seen people say put it in the radiator ?????
@@thornbird6768 I put it in my water bottle and it was fine
hey there used this in a 2C toyota diesel non turbo was blowing water out overflow kseal worked for about 2months then started using water have done another bottle and on a long drive now so far so good
Wow!
Well done!
The fault must have been on the limit of what can be repaired.
I presume that you have not changed the coolant, so K-Seal will be continually circulating.
With luck, it should stay fixed.
Obviously, keep a bottle in the car, to get you home, if it does fail again.
Fingers crossed :D
Used it today on 2004 Almera
Steam out exhaust and bubbles in coolant 😱
Small bottle in radiator
Drove for 20 mins
Job done 😆
3rd time I've used it😎
Cool ... money saved :D
@@EngineTuning
Definitely lol
It worked for me in a 1996 bmw 520i . Coolant was leaking to the combustion chamber and it produced thick white smoke with the sweet odour even when the car reached operating temperture.
The smoke was not steam.
After a 1000 km still working.
I guess that the cause is a pore or small crack in the multilayered metallic head gasket, but I cannot be certain about it.
Thank you, this video was one of the resources I found to solve my problem.
Thanks Pulpo for taking the time to write that report :)
Thanks for saving me 20,000 pesos. Good review, and i hope you produce more videos like these. Hqve a good one
Thanks Jorge - really glad to have helped :)
works on a BMW E39 530i. I'm at 7 hours at idle after a short drive and the temp gauge on dash is dead center
Nice info Scott..... thanks for sharing :)
hey any update on the condition of the car?
Yes, it works. And its another case of a simple cure or resolutions that is worth trying before you go down heavier routes. A bit like a dentist will pooh-pooh oilpulling (don't challenge my specific example; its the principle I'm aiming at) or any other professional will rubbish something that obviates the need for their costly services; this 'technology' as Engine Tuning correctly labels it, is something you should genuinely try before letting any mechanic near your car.
I used it on my high mileage 250,000km 407 coupé (2.2 petrol) that runs on lpg mostly. LPG runs hotter and this engine also uses up a bit of oil (part of its natural design). What its not designed to do is run without water or coolant; a point that was lost on the high reputation mechanics I brough it to after another idiot here in Ireland did a coolant flush (money for jam; I shouldn't have let him) and managed to break, among other things, a coolant bleed nipple. I only noticed it after a week's commuting.
After the second idiots forgot to refiill the coolant after testing for HG failure, I bought K-Seal and, even after serious overheating episodes, the old girl runs smoothly and I've just come in from a half-hour tickover on the drive after not starting her for 6 weeks.
So, pardon my French but, F**k the nature of humans that we twist facts into our suiting and recommend new engines where simple solutions exist. We all have to make a living but, like many professions such as solicitors etc, its unusual to meet a straight, honest garage.
Excellent, and well presented commentary, covering your recent experiences - thanks for sharing that with us.
I'll give you a period 'pinned to the top', respecting the time and effort that went into the post :)
Thank you for closing on the point that 'straight honest garages' do exist.
But yes, it can be difficult to know in advance.
I had occasion to explain to a head of servicing (of a main agent!!!), how to diagnose 'cooked brake fluid'.
This main agent (big operation) returned the vehicle twice (what??) with dangerously spongy brakes.
It was a friends vehicle, so I took it to a local garage and instructed them to entirely replace the fluid.... problem solved.
Yes it is frightening.
... but it's great that K-Seal fixed the problem (for a few quid).
:)
Engine Tuning Thank you. And thank you very much for your video. It is professional, authoritative, educational and, above all, reeks of a sincere desire to help others save money while acting wisely.
Thank you for those kind words Anrirua.
You have understood my motive perfectly.
I do my best to share any knowledge that I have gained... often live as it happens.
This one was entirely live :D
This has saved me so much money! Thanks for the video!
That'a great news Kate :)
Have you considered subscribing - the new YT rules kick in on 20th February!!!!
1000 subs per year required - smaller help channels like mine will be hit badly
Amen sister aaaameeen
@@EngineTuningim subbing bro
@@mixz9929 Nice move :)
I picked this up after watching this. My leak was so bad that I need to put water in every 10 to 15 minutes but there was no puddle or visible leak, so it most likely was the head gasket. I put it in idled for 20 minutes and drove for an hour. Two weeks later and it's still holding.
Great news :)
After skimming through many websites, e.g. rover, amazon, hondaclub and etc., your video offered me the most convincing evidence to solidify my intention to buy and apply, k-seal to seal my coolant passage in the engine block. After exact 7 min 47 secs, k-seal stopped my 99' Terios's leaking issue, i.e. 800-1000 ml per day.
It is worth mentioning that I applied it on my Terios during the noon time, at around 55-65 Celsius. During the night on the same day, I started my car again to check whether contraction (cold) would affect the performance of k-seal. Well, it leaked again and the leak issue, i.e. 25 ml, stopped after another 9 min 10 sec. Well, contraction could be a problem for external leaking. I would say k-seal is so far, so good at the moment.
Nice report Jia!
Thanks for sharing.
Let's hope it stays fixed :)
... oh yes... and thank you for kind words :)
Over the past month, kseal's performance has been beyond my expectation, where the level of coolant almost stays fixed in the tank and no leakage was observed. By the way, kseal must be directly poured into the radiator tank, rather than head tank, for Terios since Terios's coolant circulation design sucks.
Thanks for the feedback Jia :)
Just used this on a 94 Cutlass Ciera with 2.2l 4 cylinder that has what I’m pretty sure is an external head gasket leak. Thought it may have been thermostat housing leaking coolant on head surface which is where the leaking coolant is, but I fixed that and it wasn’t the issue. Coolant running down the front and rear of the block and dripping underneath the car. Had to add a few cups worth of coolant every drive. Added the k-seal and let the car idle for 20 min. I looked under the car shortly after pouring and there was no dripping, when it would pretty much always be dripping while running. Will be driving it in the morning and hoping it does not leak. I’ll most definitely be reporting back on how it goes.
Nice report ninja :)
It’s the day after adding the k-seal and we drove the kids to school this morning and have been out door dashing, and no leaking! It’s holding coolant and is running at normal temp. I check under the car every few stops and don’t see no dripping! So far so good. Will check back in at a later time!
@@ninjasupreme5966 Typically, when it has been fixed like this, it will stay fixed.
Nice work :)
It’s been over a month and it’s still holding coolant! Level has been full this whole time, no leak! No overheating. I’m really happy it saved us from having to get a different car!
@@ninjasupreme5966 Nice!
Thanks for the feedback report :)
Just used Kseal in a 2008 Ford Focus(my beater car, picked it up for 2k) - worked great as a temp-ish fix.
Nice!
Expect this to be a long fix, to see the car out :)
Going to try this stuff. Coolant is disappearing; lost at least a quart so far and keep topping off. Pressure hold test at the radiator shows no leaks. No white smoke. No milkshake oil. Not a drop under the car.
Yes... it should fix it.
It will only get worse, so it's probably a good time to act ;)
Thanks. I was planning to put it in tomorrow morning on a cold engine and drive it about 50 miles to work. Do I need to let it sit for a length of time for best results or can I go out to lunch after 4 hours?
Good question!
I can only speak for what I did.
As you saw in the vid... the engine was cold.
This allowed me to remove the pressurised cap.
Adding the formula when the thermostat was open (touching the rad), simply ensured that it would immediately circulate.
Whether this procedure requires a religious following, I don't know.
I was simply following my own engineering logic.
SO.... if I was you.... with work tomorrow...
I'd set the alarm 30mins earlier.
Take the rad cap off, and start the engine, till it's warm (ensuring the header tank has room for the formula).
Once you know the coolant is circulating.... pour it all in (after shaking).
Let it tickover for 3 - 4 minutes at least.
Then replace the cap, and steadily drive to work.
My guess is that it will be the end of your problems.... but obv... report back ;)
Good luck Galaxia!
Chances are (from feedback) that you'll be fine :)
Follow up. Turned out it was a bad radiator cap. Good luck to all.
I put this in my RX7 12a, that had external leaking coolant from the outside O ring seals. After using this sealant I let the engine run for 10-15 minutes at 1200 rpm, then took the car for a one hour drive including a high speed run on the freeway. The water temperature was rock solid just below half on the gauge. When I arrived home I decided to do a cautionary check over the engine for leaking coolant between the end plates and to my surprise NONE was evident. Time will soon tell how long this sealant holds out, it has certainly saved me a rebuild for the time being.
Thanks for the report MrStoney.
Mine is still good after two and a half years, and it just passed its emissions test :)
If mine lasts that long I'll be grateful to a marvelous product.
My guess is that, if it has worked, then that's it.
A permanent fix.
Good luck!
three years later, how has it held up? would you recommend to stay away from high speeds or aggressive acceleration? i want to use this on my 2007 Volvo S60R , but am hesitant to.
@@bren.nan_ Still running to this day, no problems so far.
I thoroughly enjoyed this
Thanks for those kind words BlackRain :)
Fixed a leak I had! Thumbs up indeed!
Good news Gerald :)
I tried the k seal today.
Symptoms of my car were, while driving if I came to a hill or accelerate the temperature gauge would go up very high , the coolant was bubbling and the coolant reservoir tank is filling the the cap and engine fan constantly on.
Today I removed radiator hose and poured k seal directly into hose I than brought the car for a drive for 15 minutes until the temperature got up to normal .
Then left it run idle for 10 minutes all the same symptoms were still there after I turned off the engine .
I drained the excessive coolant from the reservoir back into the rad and left car cool down for 1 hour .
I went back after an hour and run the car for 10 minutes idle.
There was no bubbling in the reservoir and the level stayed at it's normal level.
Hopefully the k seal have fixed the problem .
I will take the car for a long drive later today and see if k seal has really worked.
Good luck!
Let us know if it stays fixed :)
Don't know yet if it's fixed , the guy in the auto shop told me it can sometimes take a couple of days for it to work.
I'll post later on today if the problem is fixed.
But I'm not that confidant that it will as I have already tried steel seal and wondar weld and none of them worked .
i recently had a problem with my mitsubishi pajero 2.8 auto, the rad was over pressure and forcing the antifreeze out into the overflow bottle but was not returning the ejected fluid when cooling down. I was not getting the symptoms of a blown cylinder head gasket ie water in the engine oil, over heating or steam from the exhaust pipe but the cylinder head on the 4m40 2.8 are prone to cracks around the 127.thousand klm mark seem to be a problem with the pajero. It lookd like a small micro crack in the cylinder head to water jacket, cost to repair around 1000 pounds new head plus gaskets strip rebuild, and not forgetting the poxy labour charges. took a chance on a bottle of K SEAL cost 9.85 followed the info and the problem had been resolved they say its a perminant repair o and i have had no problems with blocking up my heater matrix. i think a lot of the negative posts in ref to K SEAL come from a small amount of purchasers using it after the car had had major overheating problems, unfortunatly its to late as the head and gasket will have warped. also from garages that are loosing trade and possibly over charging for the repairs. 10 stars from me for this product.
Nice feedback Pete ;)
Hi Pete, I have pretty much the same issue with my 2.0 d sportage.. did you use k seal with cold or hot engine? was it poured in the water tank? thank you!
About a week ago, I used K-Seal. It temporarily stopped the leak from a split drivers side seam on a brass radiator in a 98 Land Rover Discovery 4.0. It bought me enough time to remove and repair the radiator. However, the intake plenum on my particular vehicle is heated/cooled with antifreeze. The hoses to and from, and the passages in the plenum are very small. The product (as well as many other stop-leak products) clogged these small passages, and the heater core. It affected the fuel/air mixture as a result. This was easily remedied by "burping" the feed and return hoses to the plenum and heater core to move the sediment from the product through the system. I don't recommend "mechanic in a bottle" solutions for any automotive repair, but this product exceeded my minimal expectations.
Once again, good feedback Ian.
Thanks for taking the time to share your experiences :)
Cheers!
I just used it, leaking head casket and smelled antifreeze from heater core.
I flushed my radiator and it was REALLY dirty. I used a radiator flush waited a couple days then flushed radiator (took 10 gallons of distilled water)
I put new antifreeze in and the smell was 20× worse (expected)
I let it run for 15 minutes to get the antifreeze and water mixed.
Put in the K-Seal and drove 15 miles to work. The antifreeze smell went away in the 1st 3 to 5 minutes (still a very faint antifreeze smell) but I expected that.
Tomorrow I will see if any condensation with white smoke is still coming out. I want to check in the day time.
So far very happy but only drove 15 miles and it's only been 1 day. (I'll update)
Everybody appreciates a well detailed report.
Thanks for taking the time :)
used k seal so far so good :)
Thanks for that comment Enz.
It's now two or three weeks since you posted, so I guess that it's another success.
Nice!
My Renault RX4 head gasket leaked and was pressurising the header tank. A diy gasket replacement £200, garage bill £1, 000, car value according to We Buy Any Car £137! Used K Seal and it really does work. Cause of problem forgot to replace cap on header tank and cooked engine! Best £24 I ever spent.
Nice share Cliff ;)
It worked for me, 01' Pontiac Grand Prix 3800 motor. It worked.
Good news Don.
Thanks for sharing, and adding to the body of knowledge.
DON KAIN how long did it take to work?
Good stuff got my vehicle another year
Nice!
Good stuff. But keep an eye on your radiator cap and thermostat.
There has been no problems in those areas.
The only problem now, is that some water consumption is occurring, though it is not excessive.
This worked! I tried it, thanks!
Thanks for the report Bryan :)
My local garage of experienced mechanics advised to buy anything but K-Seal. The reason is that K-Seal has been known to clog up the normal coolant channels and cause further problems. The most popular advertised brands don't usually mean they are the best.
What did you expect them to say Tony?
I expect them to give advice - simple!
I then bought Holts LOYHREP0101A Professional Sealit Leak Repair, 250 ml
What's your problem?
Some garages are honest and advise their customers to try the easiest and most economical option before deciding on more expensive repairs. These products are designed to do just that, however, some work better than others. I have verified online reviews and decided not to try K-Seal which my garage mechanics advised against.
I have so far avoided to have my engine dismantled despite having had a coolant leak and the garage gave me various options and the costs involved - just as I expected.
To be honest Tony, you have missed out the main points.
As I understand it you had a 'coolant leak'.
The type of coolant leak is key.
It's the centre piece of the post ... or it should be :D
You bought the Holts product, but you didn't state definitively that it fixed the problem.
Having put all the effort in (two posted reports) - it would surely be worthwhile making some edits, to add the key information.
Otherwise the reports that you made are pointless (in the true sense).
Awesome man thank you , just given it a go on my 2010 Astra
Cool!
Let us know how it went :)
I'm going to try it this tuesday and I'll definately let you know if it worked. I bought it after seeing this review. You've convinced me so if it works you'll be in my prayers.. (if I were a religious man
:) )
So.... today is the day.
Best of luck with it.
+PlayF1 Net so I tried it. It seems as if it has worked. No more loss of fluids. Thanks a lot for the tutorial.
+PlayF1 Net I did not have the typical symptoms of a leaking head gasket but I was loosing fluid with no trace. I've read that in the rover 400 manual that this can be due to great overheating of cooling fluid. I noticed that my cooling fan behind the radiator was broken of so it did not turn around thud it did not cool down the radiator while in heavy traffic. so if I fix the fan, problem could.be solved.
Ah yes.... a fail symptom can be generated from a number of causes.
Sometimes, the best method is to eliminate potential causes.
It may be possible that you have paid for a fix, that was not the fix required.
But I think that we've all done that.
Anyway.... everybody appreciates it when the facts of the story are told.
Thanks for sharing :)
Exactly. I always get a bit annoyed that people sometimes ask for advice, get the advice, and say that they wll report back, but never do. ANd other people don't learn then.
i trust him . dont know why but i do
Thanks michael for your confidence ... it is not misplaced ;)
For further confirmation, you can also check out my other vids.
They are all offering technical or engineering help and advice.
This type of 'channel check' can be a useful gauge to judge whether anybody is testing with the right engineering mentality.
Also there are a shed load of feedback reports below confirming that in most cases 'the fix works'.
Good luck ... let's hope it works for you :)
it’s the accent
I poured mine in a 1/2 Gal. of Water and mixed that up good and then slowly poured it in the disconnected upper radiator hose. My point is the more mixed the better especially if you have a small 2.5L 4cyl engine like me.
That's fine Martin :)
It doesn't have to be thinned, before adding, but there's no reason why not.
BTW the "small 2.5L 4cyl engine" brought a smile to my face.
It reminded me of when I had a little Rover 820, with a 2.0L 4cyl engine.
I was so hopeful this would work on my 2003 expedition...but it didn't . Time to take it to the Mechanic!
Oh wow... that's two fail comments in succession.
My mother in law always says "never one without two".
Funnily enough, most times she's right.
That's bad luck man.
Good luck with the fix!
I’m against adding water to a cooling system because it causes internal rust. However K Seal closed up my water pump seal on a earlier year Kia of mines no longer losing a gallon of coolant a day.
Thanks for the report Trey :)
I use it in my daughter's 92 Honda Accord and it worked this car had a head gasket leak it stopped it within 3 minutes.
3 minutes is within spec.
Good feedback Ronald.
Thanks for taking the time to share :)
Just put it in my 93 Accord so far so good, heater is now blowing hot air. Now will see if it seals leaking head gasket.
Hi! My family has an Opel/Vauxhall zafira A 2004, about 2 years ago it started to smoke a lot on the exhaust(White smoke) . Since then we use rislone block seal, lasts for about 4-6(3000-4000km) months after that period it starts to overheat and builds up a lot of air in the cooling system. Would you recommend K-seal? Do you still have that car and if so, how does it work? Thank you so much!
Update on hyundai i40.
K seal did absolutely nothing to fix my head gastet problem.
Bad luck Derek.
I guess that it was beyond hope :(
Always good to hear of failures
... just a shame that it had to be you.
Thanks for taking the time, to keep everyone informed :)
Thank you very much for this review m'lord
Your most welcome :)
Recepta na uszczelkę pod głowicą. Środek trwale likwidujący wycieki
oleju w silnikach benzynowych i dieslach BLUE DEVIL OIL STOP LEAK" ,
uszczelniacz wycieków oleju z silnika samochodu. Cena to niecałe 100zł.
100% działa.. ...u mnie już po godzinie pracy silnika, auto jak nówka.
Ten K-seal, zadziałał w moim aucie, dopiero po pięciu dniach...
..myślałem już, że dałem się nabrać, ale o dziwo, i ze zdziwieniem,
stwierdziłem, że na wszystko trzeba czasu. Całą butelkę trzeba wlać, nie
ma co dzielić na pół, bo może dlatego musiałem czekać pięć dni, na
efekt.
Trzeba jeszcze tego Devila wlać do silnika, bo jak cieknie i przecieka,
to w obie strony.
Great vid... And a great product by the look of it. !
Ha! Yeah!
5 years later, the Berlingo is still going strong ... er ish :)
I reckon that the original issue (whatever that was), has made some progress.
Nothing to cause concern, as yet ... but there is some vapour on start up.
On the odd occasion, I have had to top up the header tank with water.
Would I attempt a Pic Carlit (with the Berlingo)?
I think that I would first need to go on a decent run, with a known level in the header tank.
... of course; it may be the case that another bottle of the formula might be required.
If the gap (?) has opened up, then another dose would not be unreasonable.
Maybe we'll get to test it, once this effine-mass-madness has succumbed to :-
... "now I've gotta reason, now I've gotta reason to be waiting (The Berlin Wall)
:D
@@EngineTuning is this more effective with water alone or it's ok to mix with any anti-freeze coolant?
@@jaysagrayum7448 It will work with anti-freeze :)
@@EngineTuning watching from America. You ate a great presenter. How is the K seal holding holdings up now? Did you do second bottle of it ?
@@aaronweiser5421 Yeah, after 4 years, when new damage occurred, I tried a 2nd bottle.
For whatever reason, this time it didn't work.
However, I was not using the Berligo for long voyages, so I put up with the gradually increasing consumption of water.
It was different to the original problem.
There was no continuous exhaust steam.
Instead, the exhaust was coming through the cooling system.
Consequently, I began running it with the rad cap half on, to prevent pressurisation.
This allowed me to add water, if the journey was a touch long.
Again, for whatever reason, about two weeks ago, the gap finally sealed itself.
I figured, OK, close the cap.
No problems ensued.
As of this moment, the problem has been fixed.
I have checked the coolant level a number of times and it is stable.
My guess is that the fix will be permanent.
Let us not forget, that the world is not as we see it ;)
:)
Sooo i just picked this stuff up my coolant is leaking from the radiator kinda shoots out when its pressurized seems to be coming out of the coil as i can see small drips on my front bumper just below the grill the rest drips on the floor i hope this wrks its a 2016 dodge journey 🤷🏻♂️ here goes nothing also i can use antifreez right i dont have to use water
Great video this worked for me
Good news!
Handled my gmc 2000 thank goodness it was a small crack coolant doesn’t burn out and air conditioner works far better. Too bad I was too late on my 89 using KSeal for the Silverado guages to head gasket was already destroyed with white smoke 💨 exhaust engine died. I learn attacked problem before it gets out of hand
Ah yes ... a stitch in time, saves nine :D
Great little video thanks
can I just say this caused my engine to overheat and refer my engine useless and cost me £3500 to repair it. basically the k seal blocked the radiator and caused the engine to overheat,
I have a video coming up showing what damage it caused. to have my radiator replaced would cost £650 plus vat to re core. this stuff cost me an absolute fortune. sometimes it does work but on my 1934 vintage car it didn't.
Nice story...
Why on earth haven't you uploaded a video of your 1934 vintage car?
What is it BTW?
Don't forget... when you quote your 1934 car... you MUST state the year of manufacture first, followed by the marque and then the model - You have broken international protocol!!!!!!!
Also note that when driving old machinery... every sense is aware of the engine, it's noise, smell, power, temperature etc.
Also note... it's very wise to do research into how radiators work.
This will help you decide on whether or not you should claim that the radiator was blocked by K-seal.
Tony Montana
hi it depends on where they leak is and if it's a metal part or is it leaking from the gasket. I have put up a video on my channel if you need help using it. basically pre dilute the kseal with water then only pour in a little at a time don't use the whole tub as it does 21 litres you system is probably only half of that so pre mix half a tub with say 2 litres of water. drain some fluid out of you system then fill it with the pre diluted kseal
This, stuff is 👍awesome
Ok I was very very sceptic about this, I dont trust things that sounds to be goog to belive.
But this works for real. I bought one for 15€ and fixed my head gasket problem with my Audi A4 B6
That's good news Don.
Thanks for the feedback :)
Thanks for the video, was a bit sceptical about it. But going to buy a tub and try it on my Astra 1.7cdti. Its heading to the scrappers more than likely so £10 for a punt is well worth it!
Oh yeah... definitely worth.
The fact is that from this channel, we have found that it works in most cases.
There have been two or 3 reports of failure... around 1% of the thumbs up.
... don't forget to let us know :)
It's better to premix K-Seal with coolant and then add the mix directly to a radiator that's been slightly drained.
I wouldn't recommend this for head gaskets fixes, but its good for small leaks in radiators
or even water pump seals..This product is unbelievable i have heard nothing but good
things about this product.
Why wouldn't you recommend this for head gasket fixes?
Normally, such a statement would come with hard data
... extraordinary claims demand extraordinary evidence.
On this channel, we now have enough reports to provide evidence that it works across the board.
One or two fails, but only that, and well within the claimed success rate.
Bear in mind that most people have been fixing serious engine failure problems.
Water pump seals are easily fixed.
If it is a gasket, then why not (though why bother); and o ring joints are not the intended fix, as the o ring should be changed ... easy enough.
Therefore I'm interested to hear why you would specifically highlight water pumps :)
It will fix radiators, but so will many products ... ie. radiators are hardly a major problem that might cost you a grand.
Therefore, you will be able to appreciate that your comment appears a bit strange, and out of context with the problem area that is generally being worked on.
Fixed my head gasket leak. 2007 Toyota 4runner v6. Was smoking out the exhaust before and it went away
Tks! It's works for me but how long will it last?
It's very hard to predict Tony.
It will depend on what was originally damaged, and the extent of the damage.
A cracked casting is different to a blown head gasket.
My fix lasted for 4 years, but I believe that it was new damage, rather than the fix failing.
The great news is that this has finally sealed up again (just last week).
Fingers crossed, it is permanent :)
@@EngineTuning four years are very very good already...so you added another for the new leaking issue?
@@tonykwok5420 Yeah, but the 2nd bottle didn't work in the beginning.
Don't ask me why, because I don't know.
... but then it worked.
Perhaps the conditions became perfect
... or perhaps my Angel decided that I'd suffered enough :D
However; overall ... my guess is that the fix is permanent; and that a new issue is a new issue ;)
@@EngineTuning very good and tks a lot of with your information
@@EngineTuning just keep my updated with many tks
I used the Ultimate K Seal which cost about £40 about 18 months ago on an e39 540i. Its still fine 7k later
Thanks for that feedback citysouthstandlad.
It looks like the jobs a good'un :D
7k and 18 months is a pretty good proof of value.
My 2013 Chevrolet Malibu is losing coolant somewhere under the hood. Didn’t really leave a leak under my car. I used K-Seal today on Black Friday 11-29-19 3:50pm. Will report back if I’m still losing coolant.
Interesting!
We can look forward to your report.
Thanks for sharing with the community :)
@@EngineTuning Im back 5 months later and my coolant is not leaking. It works!!!
Hahaha ... great news.
For me; today I had to top up the water, as the warning light came on.
It has been a long time since I had to do that.
I don't believe that there is a problem, as it is not blowing steam :)
I have purchased this product but I would like to know the correct way to use it, after using this product should I take out the cooling water and clean the cooling cycle then pour new water or what??
??????
Thank you
garages hate this stuff there loosing thousands ...
I think that you are right.
Yeah. But Auto Parts love it because they're making a lot
I hate it too now because the particles will eventually clog parts were water is meant to flow, ie the heating matrix will gradually clog up or start running tepid rather than hot... Not even warm
@@Curi0u50ne Maybe, but for an old car that isn't financially viable to have a proper head gasket repair it is worth a try. If you or someone else gets afew more years out of the car than that is good for the common motorist and the environment.
Can I use this product of I got some oil in the coolant reservoir?
It is worth trying :)
so far so good in my 05 impala. It fixed my heater core heats running good no complaints here
Ah.... a bit of good news is always welcome :)
My radiator has a crack around 4 inches long ontop of my reservoir i put k seal and the leak stop like magic
That's good feedback Alfredo - thanks for the comment :)
Water is a main product of combustion so you get steam out of a cold exhaust anyway as the water condenses on the cold exhaust. As the exhaust warms up...surprise surprise the steam changes to water vapour...which is invisible. That's not to say K seal doesn't work, but the steam from exhaust test needs to be qualified. I use leak sealers in my work from time to time and for minor leaks they can be very effective, but I would raise an eyebrow if somebody claims it can deal with a cracked cylinder head. I think that is a very bold claim. Oh yes, I worked in vehicle warranty claims for three years as well as having worked on and indeed built cars from time to time. From that you learn that there is no substitute for doing the job properly and getting the cylinder head off if you think the head gasket has gone. It may be symptomatic of a number of other faults in the engine. I'd use K seal or similar as a get you home measure prior to proper examination.
I don't doubt that you are sincere Tim - I've had a look at your channel ;)
What I can tell you is that 'we live and learn'.
This was nothing to do with water condensing.
It was all about the system consuming large quantities of coolant.
Everybody will appreciate the position that you have taken ... it's a no brainer.
... but it doesn't make it correct.
This is one of those 'oh shit' scenarios, where your basic common sense view is forced to take a knock.
We hit these moments from time to time.
Why?
I think that we need to seriously examine the underlying process of 'common sense'
In reality, common sense does change ... it is not a fixed outcome.
Common sense is a method of thinking, that will, in most cases, look after you (during your epoch of existence).
The more that you know (your understanding of how things work), the better is your common sense.
However, it can easily fail, when an unknown enters the equation.
I'm thinking of an extreme example (usually the best)...
Like: for an experienced soldier of WWII, common sense would dictate how far back you would go, from a bomb being exploded.
... only that, if it's an atom bomb ... your common sense will have let you down.
I'd still go with common sense, as a general rule, but we must be alert to new information and new technology.
In this case ... yeah ... it does what it says on the tin.
There's bugger all that you can do about it.
Disagreeing changes nothing.
However, that said, your comment is genuine, and it will chime with the thinking of many people.
Consequently, I'll pin your comment to the top of the thread, at least until somebody else generates a pinning signal
:)
I don't have a channel. I'm just a qualified engineer with 50 years experience both in the motor industry and the heating industry. My view is based on experience, not selling a product.
Tim, you have got a channel ... click on your name to view it.
Me too, I'm a qualified engineer with, not quite 50 years of experience ... but close enough ;)
You should therefore know how engineers think.
Consider re-reading the text that I wrote for you.
You'll note that you were not being accused of selling anything ... I specifically pointed out the fact that I believed that this was not the case.
I can assure you that plenty of people make comments like yours, that are purely based upon 'selling'.
Note the number of comments (450 at press) so I do speak from experience.
Think more about the concept that I outlined (for you).
I wouldn't have pinned your comment to the top, if I thought that you were a charlatan.
:)
It wasn't a cold exhaust. He had the engine warmed up already.
You don't have to be an engineer to diagnose coolant in the combustion chamber.
My car produced white thick smoke with a distinctive sweet odour, which is very different to the steam that cars produce when the engine is cold.
I bet the camera didn't capture the apparent thickness of the smoke too.
I used this product in a 1996 bmw 520i with the same problem and it worked.
Developed what seems to be a water pump leak in my 2004 Ford Ranger 5 speed 3.0 liter engine. It looks like water is leaking from the front area of the water pump. I just read through a TON of comments and don't really see anything about water pump issues. Anyone have any idea if it's a good product for water pumps? Most on here are commenting about a head gasket. Or just a random leak. My water pump is a serious pain in the bootie to replace.
Thanks everyone
If it is a seal failure, then k-seal will not help.
If it is a gasket failure or a hairline crack, then it probably will help.
However, the water pump is likely fairly easy to remove, and rebuilt with a kit of gaskets and seals.
Great video and very helpful. I've just bought a bottle and will be trying it out on my bmw e46 convertible. which has been blowing white smoke consistently and the oil light and coolant light came up on the dash. Been advised to try this by my mechanic so hope it does the trick! all the best ☺
DId it work?
+ChrischrosBelgium Hi, so I've done my test today. topped up my oil in engine and put the k-seal in with further water/coolant. both lights are off on the dash. and after warming up the car and driving round for 20 mins I'm experiencing a lot less white smoke! compared to what I used to get i.e going off at traffic lights and reversing etc. however there is still some white smoke in places but I've been advised by my mechanic to give it a few weeks. and no more lights came up in my dash. so far my conclusion is not 100% repaired as of yet but definitely much much better after 30 mins. hope this helps!
great.
Good luck with that Christopher.
Out of interest..... what procedure did you follow, when adding the K-seal?
I'm interested, because, I added mine, after warming the engine with the rad cap off.
Then I added the k-seal to the empty header tank.
Then I topped up with water, and left it idling till almost all the steam had disappeared.
I think that after 3 or 4 minutes, it was probably fixed, and it was just residual water that was steaming.
After a short gentle drive, I returned and no steam at all.
From your report... I got the impression that you added the k-seal cold.
The instructions do say that you can add it cold.... so why not.
Also, I'm presuming that if the vapour has significantly dropped, then it is likely to continue dropping.
The reason being that if the crack has been closed up, so surely it will continue to close up.
Anyway.... I'd be very interested to learn how you added the k-seal... in fact, I think a lot of people would be interested to hear about that ;)
+PlayF1 Net Hi there, So my process was I switched my car on in the morning and started the motor running. Added the K-Seal in whilst cold then topped up with water to near max. My coolant/water was mostly flushed out the day before by mech. So my coolant light is up on my dash. Car starting to warm up slowly and left idling for 10 mins. Then I went for a 30 min drive. 10 min to a car park. Left the car running. checked under car and no more water leaks. idled for a further 10 mins to really get to temperature. then 10 min drive back home. By this point starting to notice a lot less smoke when driving off from lights and reversing. Topped up my water the next morning and looked under the car. No more water leak and also noticed my oil is staying level. The white smoke has not 100% gone away but most definitely so much better compared to how It used to blow out on 1st gear and reverse. No more lights have come up on my dash. So far that's what's happening with my car. I'll do another review in a few weeks to see how things are going etc. All the best, Chris
Didn’t work for me. My car is actually overheating faster than it previously was. I’m wondering if it clogged up my radiator so I might replace it and see if it continues to overheat. If it does, then I’ll have to do a head gasket repair. Thanks for the video I’m happy it helped you and so many other.
It is always possible, but there is no body of evidence for clogging, unless the rad was effectively clogged already.
The root problem may be worsening.
@@EngineTuning would you recommend multiple applications?
@@berserkerstrommortsgreb3131
Not really.
It is an option, but one dose normally fixes the fault.
How far can you drive before the water light comes on?
Me, I'm now doing around 250Km per litre.
I probably should put in another dose (after 5 years).
It's supposed to be a permanent fix, but my guess is that, whatever was damaged, has gotten worse.
@@EngineTuning If I go up hill I can go maybe 5 miles. If I go flat maybe 30 miles.
@@berserkerstrommortsgreb3131
You are using one litre of water, every 30 miles???
good info. thumbs up
Thanks Jason :)
@@EngineTuning it worked. I was losing half a gallon a day just driving 12 miles. The radiator was totally full this morning.
It's a great feeling Hahaha ... relief :)
I noticed in your video you removed the rad cap run the engine and did you leave the cap off while you run the car or did you replace the cap and then run the car at idle for 15 minutes.
If I leave off my cap and run the car the coolant will bubble up out of the radiator
I left the cap loose, in order to prevent pressure build up.
The sys is designed to be pressurised, but I played safe.
:)
Any Acura Legend KA7 KA8 owner try this product and fixed the engine BHG issue?
It's not engine specific.
The Name Is Bond ... James Bond!
Hi, hope you are well, I got a Vauxhall Corsa 1.2 2006, already wrote to you if you remember :) when i remove the coolant cap Radiator became warm at the same time coolant start coming out side the tank, when i accelerate high, too much water or coolant coming from the tail pipe, feeling some thing is stuck, didn't change the thermostat yet was wondering if this is surely thermostat. car over heat so quickly. please advice want to use the K seal. Thank you
Thank you, yes I remember our conversation :)
It sounds like it could be the head gasket.
If it is blowing combustion fumes into the coolant system, it will start pushing the coolant out of the header tank immediately.
So should i change the thermostat for coolant circulation? any chance i can use the k seal? can i use the k seal without having a thermostat? what is the solution in your opinion please
You can use the k-seal without a thermostat.
Removing the thermostat will provide better circulation.
It is easy to remove and refit.
But if k-seal fixes the problem, you will need a thermostat for winter weather.
Good luck !