For my TJ I use almost all Canadian parts Frog Fab gas tank skid, TMR steering box skid plate, Trailhead Customs bumpers, rock sliders and a warm gas tank skid plate.
Skid plates are one of those things people don’t think about till you need it… but when you need it then it’s usually to late. It’s more of a peace of mind thing
Great overview of skid plates and body protection Kelly! I definitely upgraded my skids to metal cloak after our trip to Reiter last year when we kissed my engine oil pan when I got high centered!
I'm running Warn steerbox guard, Warn front and rear diff guards, Warn gas tank skid plate, Barnes tranfer case skid plate, Poison spider rock sliders and Poison spider full roll cage. Warn front and rear bumpers. Rear bumper has swing out tire rack. Full rear body armour and Smitty built front and rear fenders. Thats about it for outside armour. All this is on my 2000 TJ Sahara. Just added the Barnes 4WD 4.0 oil pan trans skid plate.
I like how you talk about buying parts in a " I have to keep the cost down" kind of way. Makes it feel like your just a regular guy like us and not a rich RUclipsr. Nothing wrong with being a rich RUclipsr but they're not always relatable.
I crushed my driver side before i had sliders i fixed my body (without slider on) with a 2x4 and a sledge hitting it from passenger side then put the new slider on the body mounts and impacted the body to the new slider with 1 inch washers and since the body was weaker than the slider the body was brought to the slider then used careful sledging with a piece of wood on the door seal to flatten it back was a half day project and the 2 bolts by front fender you need to drill hole in the boot metal by pedals to use the washers hope this helps my side was very wrinkled so if yours is just in this should work
For my build I am going with a lot of Savvy Offroad parts. Still working on getting the TC skid to finish out the parts for the tummy tuck. I got their suspension, bumpers, motor/body mount lifts, TC shifter cable.
Hi Kelly. Great video. I have a 2002 TJ with factory automatic. I was worried about the exposed engine and tranny too. I purchased a skid plate made by MORE (mountain off road enterprises). It is very similar to your skid plate by Barnes. I’m very happy with it. I now need to address the steering box next. Then the diff covers. I’ll be looking at Barnes for sure. I’m still running the factory plate under the t-case. After I install the short shaft t-case, I’ll probably go with a stiffer plate like Barnes. Like you said, it all costs money. Luckily, it’s an ongoing project that I might have done by the time I’m 75. No worries, the build is as much fun as the drive for me. By the way, I found that my windshield frame had rotted completely out from the inside. My Jeep originated in Illinois, so rust was my best friend for the first year. Still have a ragged front fender and both rear corners need work. That’s what winter is for. It took me 9 months to find a reasonably good condition windshield frame. At a wrecking yard in Colorado Springs Colorado. So my advice to anyone looking for body parts: (AMC is no more and Chrysler is not supporting Jeep TJ and earlier any more) so start your search now and don’t give up. You just might find what you want. Parts yards or wrecking yards are probably the place. Also ask the yard owner if you can look over the vehicle which your part came from. I went shopping for my windshield frame only, in addition, because I looked, I came home with aftermarket front fenders by Poison Spyder, transfer case with the short shaft kit installed, Adam’s Driveshaft with the double-carden , and a 3 core aluminum radiator. $800 for it all!! The vehicle had been t-boned. So these parts are okay. I think I lucked out big time. I’ve priced these new on the sites and I believe I got them for less than half. Part of the journey is the build and the blessing is the new friends you make along the trail and in the shop. Happy Jeeping!
Oh yeah, also I do have the front lwr control arm brackets weld in skids like you have. But I also had a shop fabricate some for the rear. I was never able to find a set to buy. All my lower control arm brackets have taken a beating over the years.
Barnes parts are bad ass. My front and rear axle trusses are Barnes plus a whole lot of their "builder tabs and brackets". Probably going to go with their D44 hi steer kit too. Everything is just engineered really well!
Rock hard 4x4 skids are legit very reasonable prices too I think you can get a whole underbelly for like 1500 for a jku at least that’s gas tank and all they have aluminum and steel they have some nasty boat sides that I’ve been looking at getting for a while now
Short answer… yes. If you had the c clip eliminator and chromoly axles maybe, if you babied it. I have seen Nate break 35 spline Ford 9” axle shafts. Same ones I have, he just has more power than I do. I babied my 8.8 with c clip eliminators and chromoly shafts through koh with 40’s, but I immediately built my 9” when I got back.
I carry a tire repair kit, fix a flat and patches, ect. And onboard air. Hopefully I can get it fixed enough to get off the trail. I know it’s a risk but I have never had a flat I couldn’t fix in over 10 years so I decided to ditch it. It makes a huge difference not having 156lb on the back of the Jeep👍🏻 on long trips like KOH and Moab I bring it with me, just in the truck, just in case.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 cool, glad to know saves me lots of money rather than going with an ultra hook, i just did a pretty extensive frame chop and my old smittybilt link sticks out too far now negating the clearance I gained lol ledges out here are massive and nasty to navigate
hi thanks for the video, 2 questions; IYO do you think the barnes engine/trans skid plate will work on my TJ that has long arm/radius type front control arms, to me it looks tight? and what welder did you use to reinforce your belly pan? i have a 120v welder and need to weld some 3/16 to 1/4 in and some are telling me that i cannot use my 120v welder for that? I have the bolt on long arm kit and the frame mounts are all bolted but i want to weld them in. thanks again!
That would be tough to tell without actually measuring and trying it. I have a 3 link in the front and it clears but it would be tough to say with a radius arm setup. As far as the welder, I use the harbor freight titanium unlimited 200, it’s 220, I use .035 wire and 75/25 gas and it is awesome. You could probably do 3/16 turned all the way up, but I really depends on the machine how hot it will get and how much penetration it gets. Just grab some 1/4” scrap and turn it all he way up and see what happens.👍🏻
It's always great to have that friend that sells you all their stuff on the cheap!
Yup, love second hand parts👍🏻
@@MuddyBeards4X4 I wish I lived near Nate! Ironically I did growing up, I grew up in your neck of the woods (Puyallup, WA).
For my TJ I use almost all Canadian parts Frog Fab gas tank skid, TMR steering box skid plate, Trailhead Customs bumpers, rock sliders and a warm gas tank skid plate.
Nice, the only one I have heard of is TMR, lol. I will have to check them out👍🏻
Skid plates are one of those things people don’t think about till you need it… but when you need it then it’s usually to late. It’s more of a peace of mind thing
I this year put the gen right 15 gallon in my tj because of my one tons and stretch
Great overview of skid plates and body protection Kelly! I definitely upgraded my skids to metal cloak after our trip to Reiter last year when we kissed my engine oil pan when I got high centered!
I'm running Warn steerbox guard, Warn front and rear diff guards, Warn gas tank skid plate, Barnes tranfer case skid plate, Poison spider rock sliders and Poison spider full roll cage. Warn front and rear bumpers. Rear bumper has swing out tire rack. Full rear body armour and Smitty built front and rear fenders. Thats about it for outside armour. All this is on my 2000 TJ Sahara. Just added the Barnes 4WD 4.0 oil pan trans skid plate.
Nice, sounds like it’s all set up to smash on some rocks🤣
Thanks
When I do upgrade my jeep wangler YJ I'm going with Genright skid plates and getting a bigger gas tank too.
Savvy skid plates
My JKU has Poison Spyder armor throughout and my WJ has a rustys tc skid and and the rest is diy.
I like how you talk about buying parts in a " I have to keep the cost down" kind of way. Makes it feel like your just a regular guy like us and not a rich RUclipsr. Nothing wrong with being a rich RUclipsr but they're not always relatable.
relate
I love the Big Daddy Offroad (BDO) rock sliders. Check them out. Had them on my TJ, and I'm about to pull the trigger on them for my LJ.
I crushed my driver side before i had sliders i fixed my body (without slider on) with a 2x4 and a sledge hitting it from passenger side then put the new slider on the body mounts and impacted the body to the new slider with 1 inch washers and since the body was weaker than the slider the body was brought to the slider then used careful sledging with a piece of wood on the door seal to flatten it back was a half day project and the 2 bolts by front fender you need to drill hole in the boot metal by pedals to use the washers hope this helps my side was very wrinkled so if yours is just in this should work
For my build I am going with a lot of Savvy Offroad parts. Still working on getting the TC skid to finish out the parts for the tummy tuck. I got their suspension, bumpers, motor/body mount lifts, TC shifter cable.
Nice, I do like the savvy stuff. Seems to be well made, and looks good too👍🏻
i got my first jeep last year, i managed to get the 2013 jeep wrangler rubicon anniversary edition with the black interior.
Hi Kelly. Great video. I have a 2002 TJ with factory automatic. I was worried about the exposed engine and tranny too. I purchased a skid plate made by MORE (mountain off road enterprises). It is very similar to your skid plate by Barnes. I’m very happy with it. I now need to address the steering box next. Then the diff covers. I’ll be looking at Barnes for sure. I’m still running the factory plate under the t-case. After I install the short shaft t-case, I’ll probably go with a stiffer plate like Barnes. Like you said, it all costs money. Luckily, it’s an ongoing project that I might have done by the time I’m 75. No worries, the build is as much fun as the drive for me. By the way, I found that my windshield frame had rotted completely out from the inside. My Jeep originated in Illinois, so rust was my best friend for the first year. Still have a ragged front fender and both rear corners need work. That’s what winter is for. It took me 9 months to find a reasonably good condition windshield frame. At a wrecking yard in Colorado Springs Colorado. So my advice to anyone looking for body parts: (AMC is no more and Chrysler is not supporting Jeep TJ and earlier any more) so start your search now and don’t give up. You just might find what you want. Parts yards or wrecking yards are probably the place. Also ask the yard owner if you can look over the vehicle which your part came from. I went shopping for my windshield frame only, in addition, because I looked, I came home with aftermarket front fenders by Poison Spyder, transfer case with the short shaft kit installed, Adam’s Driveshaft with the double-carden , and a 3 core aluminum radiator. $800 for it all!! The vehicle had been t-boned. So these parts are okay. I think I lucked out big time. I’ve priced these new on the sites and I believe I got them for less than half. Part of the journey is the build and the blessing is the new friends you make along the trail and in the shop. Happy Jeeping!
Nice, good find for sure. Luckily there isn’t the rust issue over here, and it’s not too hard to find good used parts👍🏻
Oh yeah, also I do have the front lwr control arm brackets weld in skids like you have. But I also had a shop fabricate some for the rear. I was never able to find a set to buy. All my lower control arm brackets have taken a beating over the years.
You should consider Dave's Custom Unlimited boat side rocker panels since your tub is bent in there...might be a good option for you.
Yup, I have been eying those for a while. Might go with those as a base and build around them👍🏻
Barnes parts are bad ass. My front and rear axle trusses are Barnes plus a whole lot of their "builder tabs and brackets". Probably going to go with their D44 hi steer kit too. Everything is just engineered really well!
I agree🤟🏻
Rock hard 4x4 skids are legit very reasonable prices too I think you can get a whole underbelly for like 1500 for a jku at least that’s gas tank and all they have aluminum and steel they have some nasty boat sides that I’ve been looking at getting for a while now
dont have a jeep but all this still applies to any vehicle great video thanks
You have forgotten the most important protection. The roll cage should be top of the list since the factory does not come with one to keep you alive
Rustys off-road makes a nice skid plate system for full coverage. Comparable to Metalcloaks, just cheaper.
Metal cloak arch finders work great not cheap
Barricade offroad flat fenders: $300
Barricade offroad stubby stinger: $250
Skid Row engine skid (long version): $350
Have you thought of doing the TNT front stretch kit to raise the steering gear?
Yes, I have looked into that. Kinda expensive. If I am doing a front stretch I will be going full hydro.
what about those body mounts?
True, kinda forgot about those. 🤣
Why truss a fab housing? Extra weight and not as strong as welding the link mounts to the housing directly.
I need your honest opinion I’m building a YJ Hi Pinion 44 front 8.8 rear with 513 will 40” ties Break the stock axles in the 8.8
Short answer… yes. If you had the c clip eliminator and chromoly axles maybe, if you babied it. I have seen Nate break 35 spline Ford 9” axle shafts. Same ones I have, he just has more power than I do. I babied my 8.8 with c clip eliminators and chromoly shafts through koh with 40’s, but I immediately built my 9” when I got back.
Is that a genright tank? What did you use for the gas cap? I liked it tucked away. Another great video.
Yes, it is a Genright extended tank for wheelbase stretch. Gas cap just screws on near the frame on the drivers side.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 sorry, I was wondering about the filler hose and cap.. the gen_ right is pretty spendy! Was looking for other options
Hi, what do you do for a spare tire , if you get a flat tire ?
I carry a tire repair kit, fix a flat and patches, ect. And onboard air. Hopefully I can get it fixed enough to get off the trail. I know it’s a risk but I have never had a flat I couldn’t fix in over 10 years so I decided to ditch it. It makes a huge difference not having 156lb on the back of the Jeep👍🏻 on long trips like KOH and Moab I bring it with me, just in the truck, just in case.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 good job, sounds like a good plan.
Not skid plate related but does your apex winch hook lay flat solid or does it rattle loosely and have to keep tightening?
yes, just tighten it up with the hook sideways, and it never moves.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 cool, glad to know saves me lots of money rather than going with an ultra hook, i just did a pretty extensive frame chop and my old smittybilt link sticks out too far now negating the clearance I gained lol ledges out here are massive and nasty to navigate
ACE rock sliders
Nice!
Who makes good skid plates for a 99 XJ?
hi thanks for the video, 2 questions; IYO do you think the barnes engine/trans skid plate will work on my TJ that has long arm/radius type front control arms, to me it looks tight? and what welder did you use to reinforce your belly pan? i have a 120v welder and need to weld some 3/16 to 1/4 in and some are telling me that i cannot use my 120v welder for that? I have the bolt on long arm kit and the frame mounts are all bolted but i want to weld them in. thanks again!
That would be tough to tell without actually measuring and trying it. I have a 3 link in the front and it clears but it would be tough to say with a radius arm setup. As far as the welder, I use the harbor freight titanium unlimited 200, it’s 220, I use .035 wire and 75/25 gas and it is awesome. You could probably do 3/16 turned all the way up, but I really depends on the machine how hot it will get and how much penetration it gets. Just grab some 1/4” scrap and turn it all he way up and see what happens.👍🏻
I LIKE IT !
You could run a lil calk where you didnt weld your custom brace on the skid to seal
😎👍
Look at moto bilt a lot cheaper for yj and tj
Yea, they make great stuff
Lame name bro.