Always good to have a video to come back to when you need it, i.e. when using the product! Though colours can easily be matched. I’d like point that using an off colour actually helps to add very subtle and interesting hue transitions on your models. Something I see quite a lot in scale modeling (like grime tones for Recess shading) but not among wargamers. So perhaps a good tip to leave here for the wargamers! The subtly of this product makes it very easy not to over do the effect.
Thank you, Nick! This will work great with your knights! My Bombard was actually even varnished, and it worked totally fine, so you could add it afterwards if you wanted!
@@TheRaceForTerra That settles it then! Looks like that grime color would work especially nicely with the Malinax scheme! The effect on both your bombard and drop pod looked really excellent! 😁
Oh no are you adding more things to my list. Tempted to look at the light rust one.... might work quite well with the off white for death guard. Great vid..keep up the good work!
What I'm really interested in seeing is how these paints and such stand up to the rigors of gaming -- we can learn a lot from military modelers about weathering and oil effects, but if they're good for dioramas but too delicate to use on the tabletop then we need to find different techniques. these are gaming pieces after all and need to stand up to handling and being put into and out of cases and so forth. I'd love to find handling / varnishing factored into these reviews.
Not an issue at all. I have two large 30k armies, every single mini weathered. Not a scratch on any of them, and I am a low Dex person! These products are tougher than acrylics, not more delicate!
Late comfort I know but I use this stuff on remote control crawler vehicles. They hold our fine Clean hands and natural oil is what I would worry more about in your context
Very interesting, thank you for the demo. I can definitely see the appeal of the Shaders as the control you get from a dropper is simply superior to the pots Citadel uses. I like Citadel shades as much as the next guy, but if there’s something easier to use for specific applications like the subtle blending you did in the video I think it’s silly not to explore it. Thanks for the recommendation.
Muchas gracias, Walter. La fábrica de AMMO está en Navarra, pero tienen distribuidores por todas partes. Incluso en Asturias, donde lamentablemente no hay muchas tiendas de modelismo, es posible encontrarlas.
You are welcome. The enamel filters are very different; their so-called acrylic filters less so. The main thing is their *intended* use - a filter is meant to change the hue, like a photographic filter; the shader is used to darken an area without changing the hue. Sorry for the late reply, currently on holidays.
Don't know what to tell you, I've used them multiple times and it's been perfect every time. What pressure, distance to model, airbrush, etc. are we talking about?
@@TheRaceForTerra finished it's iso bath today, turned out it looked so bad because it had a space wolf scheme under the primer, plus of course primer under that! So, hope to finish two Beastmen tomorrow/Monday then I'm on it - will keep you posted! Thanks.
I use both, but the Tamiya Clears are more...temperamental. I find these much more forgiving for the airbrush. I will keep using the clears, but only for lights or canopies.
@@TheRaceForTerra that's fair, I'll pick it up next time I get a chance. Tamiya has served me well so far but always good to try other things in case there's better alternative.
NOTE: this is *neither a paid promotion nor a sponsored video* . I bought all the products featured in the video myself, and all opinions are my own.
Big fan of your armor paintjobs man
Wow, thank you very much! Working on an Arquitor atm, will try to post soon!
Always good to have a video to come back to when you need it, i.e. when using the product!
Though colours can easily be matched. I’d like point that using an off colour actually helps to add very subtle and interesting hue transitions on your models. Something I see quite a lot in scale modeling (like grime tones for
Recess shading) but not among wargamers. So perhaps a good tip to leave here for the wargamers! The subtly of this product makes it very easy not to over do the effect.
Awesome stuff, Stephan!
I would love to see this product used more.
Really nice, subtle effect! Going to have to try these as well I suppose haha, great demo and review sir!
Thank you, Nick! This will work great with your knights! My Bombard was actually even varnished, and it worked totally fine, so you could add it afterwards if you wanted!
@@TheRaceForTerra That settles it then! Looks like that grime color would work especially nicely with the Malinax scheme! The effect on both your bombard and drop pod looked really excellent! 😁
Oh no are you adding more things to my list. Tempted to look at the light rust one.... might work quite well with the off white for death guard. Great vid..keep up the good work!
Thanks, James! Yes, this will work great with the Death Guard scheme
What I'm really interested in seeing is how these paints and such stand up to the rigors of gaming -- we can learn a lot from military modelers about weathering and oil effects, but if they're good for dioramas but too delicate to use on the tabletop then we need to find different techniques. these are gaming pieces after all and need to stand up to handling and being put into and out of cases and so forth. I'd love to find handling / varnishing factored into these reviews.
Not an issue at all. I have two large 30k armies, every single mini weathered. Not a scratch on any of them, and I am a low Dex person! These products are tougher than acrylics, not more delicate!
Late comfort I know but I use this stuff on remote control crawler vehicles. They hold our fine
Clean hands and natural oil is what I would worry more about in your context
Two weeks ago I picked up four of them I'm about to try them on this model now this Matilda in Soviet service on the Eastern Front
Awesome, let us know how it goes!
Very interesting, thank you for the demo. I can definitely see the appeal of the Shaders as the control you get from a dropper is simply superior to the pots Citadel uses. I like Citadel shades as much as the next guy, but if there’s something easier to use for specific applications like the subtle blending you did in the video I think it’s silly not to explore it. Thanks for the recommendation.
Thanks, ExileDCC, let me know how it goes if you give it a try!
Una pasada como te quedan las figuras. Veo que la tienda está en Navarra. Me lo apunto.
Muchas gracias, Walter. La fábrica de AMMO está en Navarra, pero tienen distribuidores por todas partes. Incluso en Asturias, donde lamentablemente no hay muchas tiendas de modelismo, es posible encontrarlas.
Sweet!!! Glad I found you on Twitter. Your videos definitely got my brain clicking on!
Hey Kyle, I'm happy you found them useful! 👍
Bought all 20! Thanks for the information!
Hahah, have fun with them and let me know how you liked them! 😀
Nice, looks like as if a little bit of (oil?) thinner applied and it would be an extremely handy product to have.
Very nice! I've always been hesitant to use tamiya in my airbrush because its lacquer based, and the clean up oy >
Thank you! I highly recommend Tamiya paints for basecoating, though.
Thank you for the video. What is the difference between the "Ammo Shaders" and the "Ammo Filters"?
You are welcome. The enamel filters are very different; their so-called acrylic filters less so. The main thing is their *intended* use - a filter is meant to change the hue, like a photographic filter; the shader is used to darken an area without changing the hue. Sorry for the late reply, currently on holidays.
@@TheRaceForTerra Thank you kindly.
They look really interesting! I might need some for my Imperial guard!
Good to hear! Leman Russ video coming out this Friday!
Great review video as always from TRFT :)
These look super useful. What's the finish like on them when they dry?
Totally matt, and like I say in the video, they're highly transparent and subtle.
Can these be used instead of pre/post shading? Just a thought.
Their normal use is post-shading, I would say.
@@TheRaceForTerra thank you
Huh I cannot seem to get a nice line with out spider webbing.. even with extremely low pressure
Don't know what to tell you, I've used them multiple times and it's been perfect every time. What pressure, distance to model, airbrush, etc. are we talking about?
On a yellow base, what sadder do I have to use for fadding it?
Hi Florent, I haven't tried, but I would assume Yellow, Orange or Light Rust shaders. Grime could work also, and combines well with most colors.
@@TheRaceForTerra Thanks a lot for your answer and for your video!!!
@@Fgr63 You are very welcome, and feel free to ask questions!
As ever, good, solid content , thanks !
Thanks, Rick! The whitewash stuff I had ordered is arriving on Monday. Expect a treadhead video soon! Any progress on your Predator?
@@TheRaceForTerra finished it's iso bath today, turned out it looked so bad because it had a space wolf scheme under the primer, plus of course primer under that! So, hope to finish two Beastmen tomorrow/Monday then I'm on it - will keep you posted! Thanks.
How does it compare to tamiya clear: shadow?
I use both, but the Tamiya Clears are more...temperamental. I find these much more forgiving for the airbrush. I will keep using the clears, but only for lights or canopies.
@@TheRaceForTerra that's fair, I'll pick it up next time I get a chance. Tamiya has served me well so far but always good to try other things in case there's better alternative.
Have you tried applying it with a brush?
Seen it done, but no, there are precious few things I do with a brush except apply weathering!
@@TheRaceForTerra thanks. Great video, by the way!
Wait, MiG shaders are water based acrylics? Well TiL
Yes, they are! Not to be confused with the Oilbrushers, which are…oils! 😉