PRO Coach On Why There's So Many V17 Ascents Recently // Tom Randall from Lattice Training
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- Опубликовано: 6 июн 2024
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This clip is pulled from a full podcast interview: Coach Tom Randall is BACK, and this time we've got 5 climbers joining the party! Tom coaches climbers from a wide-range of backgrounds on their climbing issues. 
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First point is probably the most important. the first V17, BOD, as depicted in the movie where Nalle made the FA showed an honestly ugly, nasty boulder, in the middle of a humid forest to the edge of the world.
The other V17, while being not so accessible (ROTSW) at least are in overall areas that are filled with other potential climbs, and with conditions that you can find within your trip.
the next point is that we got a new wave of younger climbers that -seems to me- dared to break the ceiling glass by repeatedly grading problems V17. Some of them might not hold, but some other will, and thus, the ceiling is now gone. Which also means that climbers, even the long time established ones, can go try these boulders and have some confidence that the grade will hold.
Lastly, i think that it's really overlooked that a strong part of those V17 climbers are climbers coming from a competition background. They've been training and climbing inside that world, and while still doing it or by going full time on rock, start to climb super hard stuff. I dont think that climbers realize how good those climber are. Not only strong, but really, really good about moving their body on some holds. We have seen glimpses of the dominating competition climbers (narasaki flashing 8B+, garnbret sending ultra quickly elite problems, schubert downgrading or sending hard stuff, raboutou...) on rock, and it's only beginning. The climbers from this world will push way further the limits during the next decade.
Why does this guy only have 11k subs. I get it it’s a climbing channel, but it’s a unique one of a kind climbing channel. I’ve watched dozens of his interviews and they are Top Notch! Start a podcast Bro, you have a gift! Thank you for doing these interviews on RUclips! “Let’s Go”!
I think maybe most people listen to the full version of the podcasts in audio form from the website (or spotifyand whatnot)
This is a clip from his podcast. It's basically a teaser for the full thing. But some stuff is behind a paywall.
@@plastikmaiden Thank you!!
11k is about the number of dedicated climbers on RUclips
I appreciate the kind words and support! Full interviews are available wherever you get podcasts, and I’m starting to release some full interviews on YT as well. One with Adam Ondra and one with Tommy Caldwell so far. I share full uncut videos of all interviews on my Patreon as well. Working hard to put out good stuff for us Climbers, and am super grateful for the support! Please share with all your climbing friends :-)
What I think is this: over the past 10 years training methods and the science behind them has improved vastly. Just think about all the different protocols that came out over the last decade and add to that the expansion of the gym scene.
Completely correct. The progress is exponential due to people figuring out how to train better lol
I think the main reason is the use of indoors reproductions of hard boulders. It allows many more tries than you could give on very similar movements and builds up the muscle memory so that once they go to Finland or wherever they are actually able to send the project in one or two weeks
@@Blattealkiller ryuichi murai had zero attempts on the burden replica and still almost sent it within a week
This was the answer I was expecting and was surprised Randall didn't go there, seeing how he helped train two of these V17 climbers.
It wasn't until ROTSW, Soudain Seul and Alphane were put up in 3 of the most popular and accessible boulder destinations in the world where you can have the top ~100 climbers realistically siege a V17.
The only V17 was in Finland where other good boulders weren't well known and weather is bad. It wasnt until other v17s were sent and replica training until today's climbers would consider Burden worth projecting.
Access -> collaboration -> better beta and competition -> pushing the limit
Better answer then Tom’s
Plus Burden just seemed way harder and out of reach/intimidating than the other V17s. I wouldnt go as far as saying that it might be upgraded one day, but it does seem like its the hardest one of them all
Know what also keeps my fingers sticky?
My second bag of magdust 💁🏾♀️
This is how sports always work. At one point, people thought it would be impossible to run a sub 6 minute mile. Then one person did it and now almost anyone who tries to run for even a couple months can do it. The same thing happens with every “is this the limit of human performance?” Benchmark. Human beings just need to see something is possible.
Absolutely.
And fascinating.
It illustrates how a large part of it is mindset and humans are still capable of much more.
Does it seriously only take a couple of months? This sounds very unlikely.
its because of the training, and the fact you got extreme sports players joining! played extreme sports 25 years now, and we are taught very strict way on practicing tricks, and focusing on tricks, guess it carries to climbing. I started a few years back climbed for two years, did sport lead, and some trad lead. then moved away, and now 4 years later gonna be moving to utah for school, and well MOAB lol. Cant wait to start to climb again! Had my left hand rebuilt, and gonna start training it again, and rehab it before I get there. cant wait to start doing massive cracks!
Seems we are overdo for a v18. There were only a handful of v16 boulderers when nalle did burden. Now everyone is doing v16, and v15 is considered elite recreational, probably no longer just for the pros. Seems someone has to find a new hard project…
Aidan Roberts might’ve just done it
@@thestruggleclimbingshow with what?
@@thestruggleclimbingshow Did he climb Alphane right or something?
Maybe there just hasn’t been enough time for downgrades
Sigma vid man, I love you
hey great podcast! I just thought it was unnecessary to use pewdiepie for the rungne add, as he's not a paid brand ambassador or anything, he was just wearing some tshirts:)) I don't think you need pewdiepie or anyone else's footage advertisement without their permission as there are so many more people you can use footage of. cheers!
Pretty sure Rungne got permission, because I've seen multiple channels use the footage.
Magnus recently did videos with Pewdiepie so I’m sure there was permission
Also the purpose of advertisement is to spread the brand… If you are a climber on the internet you probably already know about Rugne, and Magnus… however Pewdiepie has a totally different and unique pull of people that are most likely brand new to the brand… honestly it’s a genius advertising move to use him ;)
Yah my guy...guess you don't know who owns rugne (hint it is the same guy in that clip who created the video with Pew, who owns the right to it, and also sponsors this video)
what does tom know about climbing v17.....
-rep, you have no rizz and no fanum tax tokens
😂😂😂
Def better than you do
Trained 2 V17 climbers, what's your resume?
Because he trains the best climbers in the world...
Skibidi gyatt rizzler on that b bop grind
we got climbing brainrot
@@neterchance4708 is that on skibidi¿
Is that on skibidi vro¿
Not to sound like a jerk or be rude but it's called progression. it's that simple. And obviously with social media we hear about it soon after. Shout out to climbers though like Niky Ceria who when they do first ascents or repeats don't even comment on the grade but talk more about the beauty of the climb.
Only the person who’s done the problem feels the beauty of it, I do bouldering because I want to achieve the highest grade possible in my bouldering lifetime, the fun of doing the problems comes with the achievement you feel from working or sending the problem
This whole "Let's not care at all about grades" argument is weird. Why don't people go out and find the most gorgeous 4+s and just climb those all day? Because, obviously, a big part of the reason for doing any sport is challenge. The "beauty" of a lot of problems and routes come from the fact that they are challenging
I only like climbs that have level 10 gyatt
I have to disagree with you. While one of my favorite things in climbing is seeing progression, sending does not equal enjoying the movement on a problem. I often enjoy working the moves more than sending.
The point is why progression happens. It is not like people were not trying hard 5 or 10 years ago...
You should really pay your fanum tax
Tom Randall is the rizzler.
Erm what the sigma
Reporter you for spam weird old dude using slang
@@slidewineder3953 dude, what the anti-sigma
YEAH! SKIBIDI FORNITE
gyatt rizzler
fanum tax rizzler, on the skibidi, type shi
Skibidi fornite goes hard dont you think?