Awesomeness!!! I looked thru many videos before I found YOU!!! This helps my floor guy repair what he did 2yrs ago. THANKS TO YOU, it is easier than he thought! You are a life saver!
thank you, it's midnight and I have to fix my floor tomorrow and you just saved me a ton of time and a big expense of tearing up my bran new floor. Keep the videos coming!!!
I was looking for a solution and there is no videos on youtube for sagging floor. Yours is the only one I found. Thank god I don't have to replace the floor. Thanks so much for sharing this video!!
Thank you for sharing! I saw so many videos where people used the window foamy stuff and it makes sense not to use that with how flexible it is. I'm going to try this.
I have exactly the same problem. Laminate laid over a small repair patch of concrete. Now I realize why the piece is sagging. The rest of the floor sits very nicely over the old concrete. I think I have the skill to fix this, thanks to your fine ideas.
I did two floor boards today and your system worked out great. Planks no longer give when they are stepped on. This fix was spot on and far less work than removing the planks.
wonderfull idea Ted, Im doing time to time floor installation and as you guess i end up with that kind of problems and honestly i did not know that, thank you for your advise and thanks to the video maker, both are fantastic ideas stay safe and stay well both of you
Hi just found your video and hallelujah 🙏🏼. Was planning to go the expanding foam route but your method actually makes much more sense and my situation is identical but even more of a drop between the boards. Out of interest what tile adhesive did you use? The reason I ask is some adhesives are quite thick and I presume struggle to be pushed through via a syringe? It looked like a Mapei product but not sure? Many thanks and a great vid 👍
Hi Mark! I’m glad you ran into it. You are correct, it was the mapei type 1 and they sell it at Lowe’s. The most annoying part was loading the syringe, but it wasn’t too bad. Aaron
Nice video ! I had a thought get a marker the color of your floor and touch those spots where the holes are with it and the little white circles will blend right in .
Appreciate for making this video! QQ: I see you kept injecting the adhesive several times into the same hole, so how did you determine when to add more or stop adding? Does the adhesive actually find its way self level to other hallow spots?
Wow, this is exactly what I'm trying to fix. I did not want to remove floorboards and have to memorize all the flooring pieces and their locations for reassembling. I'm going to try this fix this coming weekend. Just out of curiosity, what size drill bit did you use ? Thanks for posting this !
For some reason I could not find a SINGLE video that addresses this without talking the boards up. I used a 3/16. I’d advise finding one of the syringes I used (that is curved). Good luck and reach out with any questions!!
This is EXACTLY the solution I needed to fix sagging gaps under my old tongue-and-groove floorboards! I will modify the technique slightly, since my floors are made of real solid wood instead of vinyl/laminate. But the essential piece I needed was to know WHAT to use to fill in underneath. I had already thought about drilling holes like you did, but I couldn't think of a good product to actually use as the filler, that wouldn't squish underfoot, but wouldn't crack and crumble either. I also needed to see someone else using the drill-and-fill technique, to give me confidence that it's not too outlandish of a solution and could actually work! How would you say this floor is holding up now after some use? Thanks again for sharing this video!! Extremely helpful, and very well-explained and demonstrated!
Thanks for the feedback!! I was shocked when I didn’t see a single solution to this!! The floor is still holding perfectly. It dries rock hard so there are no issues. Also since it doesn’t expand when drying, you don’t have to worry about it overfilling!
@@sashaghovanlou8175 thanks for the feedback but you’re incorrect. Such a small amount of adhesive will harden and then will separate from the board with expansion and contraction.
Hey Aaron, thanks for the reply. My parents have laminate wood which I plan to fix with the same materials that you used in your video, but the way I read Emily's comment it seemed like her floor was not floating and instead was attached via adhesive to begin with. maybe I misunderstood her comment. @@aaronfixesstuff
Also, in your opinion, would It be better to try and inject the tile adhesive in between the boards and the layer of foam underlayment, or inject under the foam underlayment? or does it not really matter@@aaronfixesstuff
Very nice video, I have the same problem, uneven suspended subfloor. Is there a reason for using tile adhesive? I am worried with time it will crack and make a noise as you step on it. Thanks.
Well there weren’t many other options that I could think of. I just used that because it seemed like a solid, but easy to apply, substance. I don’t think that it should crack because the void is completely filled with it. I may be wrong about that, but so far it’s been a year and I have not heard of any issues.
I have a sagging vinyl plank in the center near the edge. Currently the floor plank next to it is removed because I was in the process of replacing it. Can I apply the tile adhesive under the plank since it’s exposed? Is there any expansion with the tile adhesive or does it spread and dry as is? Thank you.
I can’t believe there is a solution for this without taking the floor out !! THank you for sharing ! Question, how long does the adhesive take to dry up? I’m going to give it a shot soon.
Thank you for the simple and great fix! I am going to try this out! Really appreciate coming up with this. Did you think watering down the premix would help or be okay?
On another property I did this fix on I watered it down a bit and it was definitely easier to squeeze in. Just keep in mind that the more you wet it, the longer the drying time. So don’t step on it before it’s totally dry.
I am so disappointed having got my floors done by a contractor, only to see few areas with a similar problem. This contractor will never put foot in my house again. Thanks for the video. 👌
Going through the same. I have gaps, soft spots, and no expansion gap. Been so stressful. I don't trust the guy to do fixed so I am watching all videos I can
@@dman5703 Subfloor preparation is part of the installation job. No professional installer would go on top of an uneven subfloor. It's the contractors job to be the expert and point that out
How small of a drill bit did you use for the holes, and was there a reason you put the holes in the sides of the plank and not the middle of the plank?
Thank you for the helpful video. Quick question: Is there a way to screw this up such that it would make things more difficult for subflooring experts to fix? Trying to avoid needing to get their help with solutions like this, but want to make sure there's little risk for somebody who isn't generally very handy.
Honestly I can’t tell you for certain but I feel like it should work the same. I’m sure there are all sorts of keyboard experts who will disagree with me though 🤣
Two questions: Can you use this technique on floating floor laminate(non grout )) ? Also can you use glue instead of tile adhesive? I did this in the past but I used wood glue and drilled in the center of the laminate tile. I had to fill in with wood filler to mask hole, but drilling on side would hide holes well so glue will move towards gap if you have suction cup.. I have a glue with Elmer's/wood glue consistency that I can use with caulk gun that should be easier to apply and dry like hard plastic
I spent hours searching for the solution how to do the exactly same repair without removing entire floor! Thank you! Very helpful. One small question please… are you using flexi floor tile adhesive or any tile adhesive will do? Thank you in advance .
I agree! I was looking for a solution everywhere, but could not find one. So I’m glad to help! I don’t think the type matters, as long as it dries hard.
Thanks! And for some reason there was not a single video on here that addresses this issue. I am not sure how much pl glue hardens, so unfortunately I can’t say for certain.
@@aaronfixesstuff Got it. Would you mind providing a link to the glue you used? It was vague on the video and I couldn't see what it was. Was that glue very thin and easy to inject via the syringe?
Good video but isn’t that a floating floor? And wouldn’t the tile grout harden to the point it wouldn’t allow the planks to adjust with change of season causing a bigger problem? I’m very new to home repair since I purchased my first home so I may be very wrong advice is much welcomed
That’s a great question. That can be an issue if you were doing a big patch. I’m that case I would have recommended lifting the boards, leveling, and then putting them down again. As this is such a small patch, plus it is in the middle of the house, there is not really significant expanding and contracting of the boards.
That's a good presentation simple and effective. Tile adhesive is glue or cement? I would have try to use a plastic lever like a wedge Why the two holes? Air comes out easy no second one is required.
Good question. If you did this on a large area, that could become a problem. However, a lot of laminate flooring is very smooth on the bottom, so the adhesive would not really stick to it very well. So I don’t see that being a big issue.
I would be careful when using an adhesive because the floor boards need to move a little due to foot traffic and temperature. Safe bets are using minimal expansion foam or strech caulk. Problem with tile adhesive or grout type product is that you just cant tell exactly where the product is going
It leaves holes in the seams, but once the mortar fills the gap, the holes fill as well. Then you just color it in with pencil. Or you can buy those floor repair putty sticks for the holes. They are really small and easy to fill in. And that is much easier than removing the boards, leveling the floor, and then putting new boards down.
I have this situation on like 25 boards, maybe more. What is the best solution? Remove all boards and see how to concrete is? If its a poor job, then its a hidden mistake and i could ask money for repairs?
It’s easier if you can get it between the underlayment and the flooring. That way if/when you replace the flooring, it comes up easier. But honestly thinset comes up pretty easily regardless, so it’s not a huge issue. Hope this helps!!
@@aaronfixesstuff Thanks a lot! Do you have any concerns about glueing the floating floor down and if this will affect its ability to expand and contract? And would any tile adhesive work? I am in the UK and I don't think that type 1 adhesive is available.
@@colindavies6504 I don’t believe so and here is why. First off, the patch is not huge, so it will only adhere to several boards. Secondly, the bottoms of the boards are smooth, so given movement, they will just separate from the adhesive. Thirdly, they are in a temperature controlled environment, so the expansion/contraction is minimal, or none at all. As far as the adhesive, I’d just recommend one that dries hard, that is not so thick that it won’t eject from the syringe.
@@aaronfixesstuff I was thinking that even if it does stick to the underside of the floor board, that's probably okay because you're putting it between the board and the underlayment, as opposed to actually gluing the board down to the subfloor...?
@@aaronfixesstuff I probably would not have bought it had I watched your video first but it's very similar to what you have done. I'm just wondering if it will hold up over time.
That's a broken tongue, every you tube video I see sends chills up my spine. I've installed floors foe 21 yrs, my family for 46 yrs. People are so misled with videos showing them how to install the floor but not how to properly prep a floor for installation, or the fact that if you don't prep your floor right you automatically void the warranty on the floor. If this stuff decide to bond this floor will pop or separate around eventually
My LVP is in a basement on top of cement, and the installer put the floor in without using a self leveler in the spots that are clearly flexing up and down. I wonder if you could use thinset vs the mastic? Do you think it would pass thru the syringe the same?
The problem with LVP is that it is not as rigid as laminate. I feel like when injecting it, you can end up with the opposite problem, where the LVP raises and gets a “belly”. And as far as the thinset, that just depends on how liquid it is. As long as it’s not too thick, I fell like it can be injected. I used the adhesive because I didn’t want to have to deal with the mess.
Not really. A. It’s injected in between the laminate and the underpayment. B. It’s only a small amount and it’s in the middle of the room, not really any movement there.
@@franciscocrcabrerar9028 I would definitely avoid this if you were working on a large area. This is intended to repair a small issue. Feel free to ask any other questions!
Can you come to my house and fix my laminate floor? (I have that exact same problem).... lol Original installers just kept cramming more adhesive in, but it never solved the problem...
You should have drilled in the actual plank not in the seam and then you can use the little plastic shavings that are left over from when you drilled and you can melt them with a sottering gun back into the hole. There's actually videos on how to do that and you can't even tell because now you're gonna see the hole in your seams
Spent a few minutes looking for this solution, thank you for taking the time to share and educate the rest of us ;)
I know!! I could not find a single video that addresses this issue!
Awesomeness!!! I looked thru many videos before I found YOU!!! This helps my floor guy repair what he did 2yrs ago. THANKS TO YOU, it is easier than he thought! You are a life saver!
Thanks! For some reason there were no videos that address this! And countless floor people told me that I’d have to tear up the boards. No thank you!!
thank you, it's midnight and I have to fix my floor tomorrow and you just saved me a ton of time and a big expense of tearing up my bran new floor. Keep the videos coming!!!
Thanks for the positive feedback!! Glad I was able to help!!
I was looking for a solution and there is no videos on youtube for sagging floor. Yours is the only one I found. Thank god I don't have to replace the floor. Thanks so much for sharing this video!!
I agree! I was shocked that there was no video out there that shows how to address this!
Thank you for sharing! I saw so many videos where people used the window foamy stuff and it makes sense not to use that with how flexible it is. I'm going to try this.
Thanks for the feedback!! I agree, that other solution is garbage. Glad to help :)
I was skeptical at first, but wow that was amazing. Great job!!!
Thanks!
Finally a video that shows how to fix this!!
Best solution video ive found for this problem. Thanks
I have exactly the same problem. Laminate laid over a small repair patch of concrete. Now I realize why the piece is sagging. The rest of the floor sits very nicely over the old concrete. I think I have the skill to fix this, thanks to your fine ideas.
It’s a pretty easy fix, I have faith in you!
I did two floor boards today and your system worked out great. Planks no longer give when they are stepped on. This fix was spot on and far less work than removing the planks.
@@wing3389 glad I was able to help out!! Thanks for taking the time to comment, that helps me out!
Genius! Love the video
This is EXACTLY what I needed! Thanks!
Thanks!! I was pretty proud of the idea to be honest.
Gonna hive this a try to my worsening floor laminates. Glad I found your video. Thanks, Bud👍
Glad to help! Over three years later and the repair is still good!
Great advice, you’ve hopefully saved me time and money. 👍
Glad to have helped!!!
Awesome I can’t wait to go get my supplies !!!
Have exactly this going on atm - many thanks and greetings from England,!
Seems like a common issue! Thanks for the feedback and it’s nice to know that this video has reached so far!
Keep the drilled floor dust to put back in the top of the glue so it matches the floor.
What a great idea! I wish I had thought of that!!
wonderfull idea Ted, Im doing time to time floor installation and as you guess i end up with that kind of problems and honestly i did not know that, thank you for your advise and thanks to the video maker, both are fantastic ideas stay safe and stay well both of you
Great video! So helpful!
Thanks!!!
You've just help me out sooo much, thank you 👍
Awesome! Glad to hear :)
Thank you. Great video 😊
You are a genius, thanks for the vid yo
Thanks! I was pretty proud of myself for coming up with that🤣
Wow well done interesting approach
I agree! I could not find a single solution for this. So I had to get creative :)
Thank you! It was very helpful
Awesome!! Glad to help!!
Excellent video. Cheaper that lifting the floor.
Yes indeed!! And it held up great!!
Handy tip. Thanks
Glad to hear! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Like you I could not find a fix for this issue so thank you 😊
Awesome Sarah! Glad to hear I was able to help :)
Nice video, great results. I used Shalex stick it pro on my floor.
Glad to help!!
Hi just found your video and hallelujah 🙏🏼. Was planning to go the expanding foam route but your method actually makes much more sense and my situation is identical but even more of a drop between the boards. Out of interest what tile adhesive did you use? The reason I ask is some adhesives are quite thick and I presume struggle to be pushed through via a syringe? It looked like a Mapei product but not sure?
Many thanks and a great vid 👍
Hi Mark! I’m glad you ran into it. You are correct, it was the mapei type 1 and they sell it at Lowe’s. The most annoying part was loading the syringe, but it wasn’t too bad.
Aaron
Nice video ! I had a thought get a marker the color of your floor and touch those spots where the holes are with it and the little white circles will blend right in .
Thanks! I’m my case a pencil blended it right it, but depending on the color that is a great idea!!
Thanks, quite helpful
You’re welcome! Thanks for the feedback.
Thank you so much for this
Glad to help!!
Great job.
Thank you!!!
Appreciate for making this video! QQ: I see you kept injecting the adhesive several times into the same hole, so how did you determine when to add more or stop adding? Does the adhesive actually find its way self level to other hallow spots?
Very helpful. We have a sagging area in the pantry/laundry room that drives me nuts. We will give this method a shot.
Yes! And for some reason, there was no other video on RUclips that addresses this issue! So glad to help :)
Same here, sagging in one area in the laundry room. I was just going to put ply board over it.
Now that few years past, how was the outcome of the adhesive? Did it get rid of the problem?
Another great video, if you can could would you put product links for the tools you use such as the suction puller, thanks
That’s a good idea! I’ll add those for sure. Thanks for the comments and watching all the videos :)
Wow, this is exactly what I'm trying to fix. I did not want to remove floorboards and have to memorize all the flooring pieces and their locations for reassembling. I'm going to try this fix this coming weekend. Just out of curiosity, what size drill bit did you use ? Thanks for posting this !
For some reason I could not find a SINGLE video that addresses this without talking the boards up. I used a 3/16. I’d advise finding one of the syringes I used (that is curved). Good luck and reach out with any questions!!
did it work?
@@bnegrescu sure did!!
This is EXACTLY the solution I needed to fix sagging gaps under my old tongue-and-groove floorboards! I will modify the technique slightly, since my floors are made of real solid wood instead of vinyl/laminate. But the essential piece I needed was to know WHAT to use to fill in underneath. I had already thought about drilling holes like you did, but I couldn't think of a good product to actually use as the filler, that wouldn't squish underfoot, but wouldn't crack and crumble either. I also needed to see someone else using the drill-and-fill technique, to give me confidence that it's not too outlandish of a solution and could actually work! How would you say this floor is holding up now after some use?
Thanks again for sharing this video!! Extremely helpful, and very well-explained and demonstrated!
Thanks for the feedback!! I was shocked when I didn’t see a single solution to this!! The floor is still holding perfectly. It dries rock hard so there are no issues. Also since it doesn’t expand when drying, you don’t have to worry about it overfilling!
You could and should use whatever adhesive is used to adhere your wood planks to the sub floor
@@sashaghovanlou8175 thanks for the feedback but you’re incorrect. Such a small amount of adhesive will harden and then will separate from the board with expansion and contraction.
Hey Aaron, thanks for the reply. My parents have laminate wood which I plan to fix with the same materials that you used in your video, but the way I read Emily's comment it seemed like her floor was not floating and instead was attached via adhesive to begin with. maybe I misunderstood her comment. @@aaronfixesstuff
Also, in your opinion, would It be better to try and inject the tile adhesive in between the boards and the layer of foam underlayment, or inject under the foam underlayment? or does it not really matter@@aaronfixesstuff
Very nice video, I have the same problem, uneven suspended subfloor.
Is there a reason for using tile adhesive? I am worried with time it will crack and make a noise as you step on it.
Thanks.
Well there weren’t many other options that I could think of. I just used that because it seemed like a solid, but easy to apply, substance. I don’t think that it should crack because the void is completely filled with it. I may be wrong about that, but so far it’s been a year and I have not heard of any issues.
I have a sagging vinyl plank in the center near the edge. Currently the floor plank next to it is removed because I was in the process of replacing it. Can I apply the tile adhesive under the plank since it’s exposed? Is there any expansion with the tile adhesive or does it spread and dry as is? Thank you.
I can’t believe there is a solution for this without taking the floor out !! THank you for sharing ! Question, how long does the adhesive take to dry up? I’m going to give it a shot soon.
I know! And I could not believe that nobody had thought of it till I did!! It takes 24 hours to set.
@@aaronfixesstuff Do you walk on it after some time to make sure it is in level and not building up too much?
@@Jam.S. no need to because it doesn’t expand when it dries.
Ted
Would it be the same fix if the floor is a oak floor over cement
The entrance from garage to house
What kind of adhesive did you use and will this work on floating planks?
Thank you for the simple and great fix! I am going to try this out! Really appreciate coming up with this. Did you think watering down the premix would help or be okay?
On another property I did this fix on I watered it down a bit and it was definitely easier to squeeze in. Just keep in mind that the more you wet it, the longer the drying time. So don’t step on it before it’s totally dry.
Thank god I found this! Quick question though, how hard is that stuff to remove when I want to eventually change my flooring?
Well technically it should even out your floor, so you might not want to remove it.
Very helpful video. How do you know how much tile adhesive to inject?
Thanks Paul! I injected until the hollow sound went away and until I noticed the mortar ooze out from the other holes.
Is there a link to your adhesive
Whaow that's awesome.
Thank you!! Glad you found it to be helpful!!
I am so disappointed having got my floors done by a contractor, only to see few areas with a similar problem. This contractor will never put foot in my house again. Thanks for the video. 👌
Absolutely! It’s what happens when corners are cut unfortunately.
Going through the same. I have gaps, soft spots, and no expansion gap. Been so stressful. I don't trust the guy to do fixed so I am watching all videos I can
Not his fault your subfloor are not even
@@dman5703
Subfloor preparation is part of the installation job. No professional installer would go on top of an uneven subfloor. It's the contractors job to be the expert and point that out
@doubleclutch EXACTLY
How small of a drill bit did you use for the holes, and was there a reason you put the holes in the sides of the plank and not the middle of the plank?
Is there any reason why you drill the holes at the edge of line? Is it okay to drill kinda center?
Thank you for the helpful video. Quick question: Is there a way to screw this up such that it would make things more difficult for subflooring experts to fix? Trying to avoid needing to get their help with solutions like this, but want to make sure there's little risk for somebody who isn't generally very handy.
Is there a different adhesive you would suggest for a hardwood floor panel? Or should Mapei Type 1 still work?
Honestly I can’t tell you for certain but I feel like it should work the same. I’m sure there are all sorts of keyboard experts who will disagree with me though 🤣
will this work if there foam underlay under laminite floor
Two questions: Can you use this technique on floating floor laminate(non grout )) ? Also can you use glue instead of tile adhesive? I did this in the past but I used wood glue and drilled in the center of the laminate tile. I had to fill in with wood filler to mask hole, but drilling on side would hide holes well so glue will move towards gap if you have suction cup.. I have a glue with Elmer's/wood glue consistency that I can use with caulk gun that should be easier to apply and dry like hard plastic
Now that it has been a while. Did it work?
I spent hours searching for the solution how to do the exactly same repair without removing entire floor! Thank you! Very helpful. One small question please… are you using flexi floor tile adhesive or any tile adhesive will do? Thank you in advance .
I agree! I was looking for a solution everywhere, but could not find one. So I’m glad to help! I don’t think the type matters, as long as it dries hard.
Hello
What is the filling called
Great video, do you think I can use caulk as a filler?
Thanks! I would not recommend that. It does not get hard enough and will just sag under the weight of you stepping on it.
This is the fix I was looking for! Do you think I can use PL glue instead of a tile adhesive?
Thanks! And for some reason there was not a single video on here that addresses this issue. I am not sure how much pl glue hardens, so unfortunately I can’t say for certain.
@@aaronfixesstuff thanks! I ended up using the tile adhesive just as you did! MAGIC!
@@mmilunsky YES!!! I’m happy it worked for you!!
I have the same problem but underneath my floor we have soft insolation because the cold weather,do you think this will work???
Are you referring to the underlayment?
Do you have click and lock system? If you drill at the seam wouldn't they break the system? Or did tog drill near the seam?
What size syringe is that?
Is that glue & if so what’s the name of it
Can I use the Alex paintable caulk? I used it to caulk around the window and even though it is flexible, it is semi rigid.
I would not recommend that. That caulk is not sturdy enough to support the weight and would likely fail.
@@aaronfixesstuff Got it. Would you mind providing a link to the glue you used? It was vague on the video and I couldn't see what it was. Was that glue very thin and easy to inject via the syringe?
Good video but isn’t that a floating floor? And wouldn’t the tile grout harden to the point it wouldn’t allow the planks to adjust with change of season causing a bigger problem? I’m very new to home repair since I purchased my first home so I may be very wrong advice is much welcomed
That’s a great question. That can be an issue if you were doing a big patch. I’m that case I would have recommended lifting the boards, leveling, and then putting them down again. As this is such a small patch, plus it is in the middle of the house, there is not really significant expanding and contracting of the boards.
It will be fine if it was on the edges it be a different story
How did the holes look after you touched them up with the pencil?
Mine blended in perfectly! What I did was I feathered it in to blend it all up. If you didn’t know that I fixed it, you wouldn’t see the holes.
Hola vale para eliminar un chirrido
That's a good presentation simple and effective. Tile adhesive is glue or cement? I would have try to use a plastic lever like a wedge
Why the two holes? Air comes out easy no second one is required.
Nice approach. but it seems may brake laminate ability to "float". Would not laminate adhere to underlayment?
Good question. If you did this on a large area, that could become a problem. However, a lot of laminate flooring is very smooth on the bottom, so the adhesive would not really stick to it very well. So I don’t see that being a big issue.
@@aaronfixesstuff great. Thanks for the tip. Will go that way.
@@vasluy glad to help!
Can this method work on vinyl plank? Thanks!
Vinyl tends to be thinner, so I’d worry that it would create a “bump”. If you are careful to not overfill, I don’t see why it would not work.
How did you cover up the Holes you drilled ?
Just pencil. The color was almost a perfect match. They also sell patching kits, depending on the color of your flooring.
Do you think Fix-it-All might work instead of the tile adhesive you used?
I would be careful when using an adhesive because the floor boards need to move a little due to foot traffic and temperature. Safe bets are using minimal expansion foam or strech caulk. Problem with tile adhesive or grout type product is that you just cant tell exactly where the product is going
@@bbar182 foam or caulk will just collapse, they wont do anything.
Nice. But it gonna leave holes on the floor. what you gonna do to hide those ?
It leaves holes in the seams, but once the mortar fills the gap, the holes fill as well. Then you just color it in with pencil. Or you can buy those floor repair putty sticks for the holes. They are really small and easy to fill in. And that is much easier than removing the boards, leveling the floor, and then putting new boards down.
I have this situation on like 25 boards, maybe more. What is the best solution? Remove all boards and see how to concrete is? If its a poor job, then its a hidden mistake and i could ask money for repairs?
Could you make a video about water damage laminate flooring how to fix please?
You can’t really fix the boards, they would have to be replaced unfortunately
How long did it take for the adhesive to dry before you could walk on it?
I waited like 3 days. In normal settings it dries in 24, but just due to the restricted airflow, I waited longer.
Thanks
Do you inject it below the underlay or between the underlay and floating floor?
It’s easier if you can get it between the underlayment and the flooring. That way if/when you replace the flooring, it comes up easier. But honestly thinset comes up pretty easily regardless, so it’s not a huge issue.
Hope this helps!!
@@aaronfixesstuff Thanks a lot! Do you have any concerns about glueing the floating floor down and if this will affect its ability to expand and contract? And would any tile adhesive work? I am in the UK and I don't think that type 1 adhesive is available.
@@colindavies6504 I don’t believe so and here is why. First off, the patch is not huge, so it will only adhere to several boards. Secondly, the bottoms of the boards are smooth, so given movement, they will just separate from the adhesive. Thirdly, they are in a temperature controlled environment, so the expansion/contraction is minimal, or none at all. As far as the adhesive, I’d just recommend one that dries hard, that is not so thick that it won’t eject from the syringe.
@@aaronfixesstuff I was thinking that even if it does stick to the underside of the floor board, that's probably okay because you're putting it between the board and the underlayment, as opposed to actually gluing the board down to the subfloor...?
Does it work on concrete subfloor?
The subfloor in the video was concrete :)
How do you fix the holes you drilled into the floor?
I just marked them with pencil since the color is so similar.
under the laminate floor dont you have a white sheet of polyfoam?Ita direct on cement?
There is an underlayment between the concrete and the laminate.
@@aaronfixesstuff If there is, then will the adhesive dry?
@@AlexandrosNikolakis yes because it isn’t a vacuum.
How has this held up since you fixed it?
It’s still perfect!
how did you use the tape? :/
Notice that I wrote that I didn’t end up needing it 😎
Will this work on click lock flooring?
The flooring I did it on was that way, so it should.
I can't get the suction cup to stick to the floor
How long does it take for it to dry
I don’t remember the exact drying time, but I know it is about 24 hours.
Do. Inject the tile cement beneath the floor underlay
That is correct.
Whwre can i order tool for needle
Any syringe should work. I would assume that you can get it at any pharmacy.
@@aaronfixesstuff ohhh okay
If it sticks to the floor and the wood then the floor won't float
What is your opinion of the "Fix-A-Floor" product?
@@GrowLLLTigeRRR I’ve never heard of that!
@@aaronfixesstuff I probably would not have bought it had I watched your video first but it's very similar to what you have done. I'm just wondering if it will hold up over time.
That's a broken tongue, every you tube video I see sends chills up my spine. I've installed floors foe 21 yrs, my family for 46 yrs. People are so misled with videos showing them how to install the floor but not how to properly prep a floor for installation, or the fact that if you don't prep your floor right you automatically void the warranty on the floor. If this stuff decide to bond this floor will pop or separate around eventually
Nah. There’s no reason for it to pop up somewhere else. All it did was fill the void under that plank which is exactly what needed to be done 😉
I will be using LePage NoMoreNails floor glue
Latex caulking should work too as it dries fairly hard
@@martik778 question is does it dry hard enough to be stepped on. Not so sure, but perhaps!!
My LVP is in a basement on top of cement, and the installer put the floor in without using a self leveler in the spots that are clearly flexing up and down. I wonder if you could use thinset vs the mastic? Do you think it would pass thru the syringe the same?
The problem with LVP is that it is not as rigid as laminate. I feel like when injecting it, you can end up with the opposite problem, where the LVP raises and gets a “belly”. And as far as the thinset, that just depends on how liquid it is. As long as it’s not too thick, I fell like it can be injected. I used the adhesive because I didn’t want to have to deal with the mess.
@@aaronfixesstuff ou on est là il est in
Lol. Do you live in Florida? And can you come over and fix mine?😊
Haha I am not in Florida unfortunately:(
Good Idea.But don't the floor are suppose to be able to move? And if you put that stuff that piece is gonna be glue in the plywood
Not really. A. It’s injected in between the laminate and the underpayment. B. It’s only a small amount and it’s in the middle of the room, not really any movement there.
@Aaron Fixes Stuff ok Sir thank you. I Will try that .
@@franciscocrcabrerar9028 I would definitely avoid this if you were working on a large area. This is intended to repair a small issue. Feel free to ask any other questions!
Can you come to my house and fix my laminate floor? (I have that exact same problem).... lol
Original installers just kept cramming more adhesive in, but it never solved the problem...
I’m sorry to hear that! It sounds like your floor was not leveled prior to the install. They should have told you that it needed to be done :(
You should have drilled in the actual plank not in the seam and then you can use the little plastic shavings that are left over from when you drilled and you can melt them with a sottering gun back into the hole. There's actually videos on how to do that and you can't even tell because now you're gonna see the hole in your seams
I sure hope you don’t do this work for a living because that is the worst advise ever…
Good, now give us solution to fix the world hunger and world poverty
That will be my next video :)
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