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3D Printer - Quality Printing with Cooling Fans
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- Опубликовано: 13 май 2016
- How important is printing with cooling fans? Very important!
In this video I show the quality difference between printing with and without the cooling fans active. The results are confronting.
Download Marvin Key Chain:
www.thingiverse...
Download Bowden mount with fan support from here:
www.thingiverse...
Buy 3D Printer cooling fans from here:
goo.gl/XJJZjM
Buy cheap 3D Printer kits and parts from Banggood here:
goo.gl/bFyz5H
Amazon 3D Printers and Parts:
amzn.to/2qdTebt
Download the HyperCube 3D Printer from Thingiverse:
www.thingiverse...
Royality Free Music:
Bensound - Happy Rock
:/ mfw I'm half way through printing a 5 hour print without cooling fans and I decide to watch this video to pass the time.
ziad wassef good for you.....PAL
ziad wassef feelsbadman :/
f
same
wait this is a 3 year old comment. bruh
Thank you! I installed a cooling fan at the tip of my nozzle and now my prints have improved 100%
I now print all my projects with PETG and max fan at the tip. PETG has similar properties to ABS, with the added benefit that it does not mind strong cooling while printing.
Just a beginner here, I read through the comments, both for and against cooling ... But the video was simply superb... Great lighting and clarity... Thanks a lot!
Note to newbies watching this: He is using PLA, ABS does not need fans, but it does benefit from them for very small parts or layers that would otherwise finish too fast to cool before the next layer. but Gcode control, or an easy access switch on the wiring is almost mandatory, as too much cooling will prevent the layers from sticking together.
I always enjoy watching the videos on this channel. Very informative! A few points:
I've been able to simulate the high quality demonstrated using fans, but have done so without fans. The secret is cutting the printing speed in half. When everything is happening a lot slower, the results seem more precise. I ran those tests in PLA.
Secondly... I've just picked up a bunch of 40 watt peltier effect plates, and have a bigger one - I think 120 watt - on order. These are the heart of those electric iceboxes they sell for use in cars; run DC power through them and one side of the plate gets cold, whilst the other gets hot. They're quite cheap, although consumptive of power. It occurs to me that if cool air is good, colder air might be better. Might be an interesting variable to play with. I suspect that it would be possible to drop the air temp by 10C or more, but that's just a guess. Just a thought.
+charles worton Interesting idea with the peltier devices. Thanks for watching :)
Good video! I recently acquired a printer and gave up on PLA after a few days of complete failure. I blamed the filament and changed to ABS which works great. But now I think this explains why my PLA prints weren't working.
Just brought the cheapest 3d printer I could find (just for the lols), didn't come with a part cooling fan. I knew it was going to come out bad, but seeing the nozzle just plowing its way through semi-molten PLA it brings home just how essential part cooling fans actually are. Time for a retrofit I think.
Thumbs up! This is such good information and has absolutely put to rest my faulty concern that the fan will cause the plastic to harden before it has a chance to solidly combine with the underlying layer thus causing delamination. As a result, I have been struggling with all those excessive heat issues causing faulty prints like you've shown thinking I can achieve a cast like piece of higher strength with "gooier" plastic. I now accept that these are separate processes and better results are achieved by optimizing the conditions for the specific process. Thanks for a complete mindset focus change which should definitely improve my results.
+SayWhat? Thanks for watching! When I first assembled my printer it didn't come with any part cooling. It was only after frustration of not being able to print smallish pieces and fine detailed parts that led me to cooling fans. I highly recommend the addition after the success I've achieved :P
Please clean the extruder tip...
can you do a video about installing fans and the code for them?
Yesss
not a 3d printer myself, but it seems pretty straight forward.
Since the point is to get as much cooling as possible, no need for anything but red, black, and an on/off switch. If you really feel the need to program, just have it turn on just before the start of printing, and off just after completion. No real need for any fancy power modulation or anything like that.
As for installation, find a place anywhere there is room off to the sides.
Then measure out and design shrouds, print them in the poor melty quality. (don't use the fans without shrouds as you'll cool the places you *want* the plastic to melt)
Mount the poor quality shrouds, turn on the fans, reprint the shrouds for a better set. Rinse and repeat until quality of print increases are marginal.
@@QuiznosBear I might be slightly late to the party, but PWM should help when printing other materials.
@@SuryanIsaac material being printed doesn't matter at all. Reduce variables as much as possible. Leave the fans at max speed, and just make better shrouds.
@@QuiznosBear I print PLA at full speed, and PET-G at 60%. ABS without fan. Works well for me. Also, no fan for the first layer and 30% fan for the second to fifth.
Thanks for great video. I also learned the hard way how important a more powerful cooling fan is on the Arduino board, when my ROBO3d kept messing up prints no matter what I did. The fan had an inconsistent short - board would get hot, print would mess up half way through. I put a much larger fan cooling the board and have great prints now. Im going to print out those bowden fan mounts and give it a try. Thanks!
Is this for specific materials? Because I don't understand why you'd have cooling fans when the majority of top end printers have heated beds and/or heated enclosures to keep everything hot.
4:30
"Stop! He's already dead!"
Thank you. I now know why my prints look the way they do!
Awesome insight into cooling, appreciate that you included ABS too, it explained a lot about some of my 'less than perfect' results.
Thank you so much.
+Spike Kent Thanks for watching :)
This video exactly sofve my printing issue. The Marvin example is exact what is hapening, I do have an extra fan, but without a tube to the nozzle... work to do! Thanks
well.. i got warping issues with fans on on pla... so what should i do?
I have come across similar findings on my FF finder. As it is a closed well built machine, I run a USB fan off the USB port on the side and printed a base for it to sit on top cooling down over everything.
Has built in memory so I don't need that port to print.
I feel like the 2 fans are gonna wiggle a lot and transfer the shakiness unless you hold them with additional support
your nozzle heat is to high thats why its melting after printing
I was thinking the same thing. Waaaaay to high temperature.
Callum Thiess fans are good regardless but your right. I wonder if that high heat makes it even a few seconds/minutes printing in real time. I doubt it though. There’s some truth to this, great video
And fans off vs no-fans isn't the same: they are containing the heat shrouding the nozzle.
Yeah me too
Software should prevent that. There is something like, time between layers...
The printing temperature is missing on data parameters
laconeccionvideo true cuz I think the keychain was just way too hot
Fantastic tip, and since i still have about 55 fans laying around unused this is a great use for them.
The 2 fans I use were spare also. They work a treat!
Makes you wonder why most higer end FDM printers dont have fans (such a cheap componet to add).
thumbnail's like
you vs the guy she told you not to worry about.
Why are the ducts pointed at nozzle and not towards the bed? I would assume that pointing at nozzle will cool the hot end nozzle, which works against heating it?
Interesting, because I turned my fans off when I had trouble with layers not sticking to each other. Maybe I’ll experiment more
Hi is there any video show how to fits those extra fan ?
My printer is on the way , so need to get what ever thing's need to mod before its come to my door way :)
thanks for sharing
Just found your channel, I'm having immense issues with prints detaching after a while so I lose 2 hours work, heated bed, glass and tape, 2 years never worked
Verry good idea. I'll print out a cooling system immediately for my print rite. But I still have to solve warping, probably with a heated bed. I hope it will solve the issue.
I have the exact same digital calipers! I love them! BTW - I couldn't figure out why my prints kept sucking. I tried everything from layer height to print speed. While I got less distortion on .3mm layer heights, there was considerable z-banding which would be difficult to get out with primer (printing on PLA). After watching your video I pointed my desk fan at the print bed and I got much better results across the board (my extruder only has one fan).
Hi! I bought an Anet A8 printer It was printing normally, but the thermistor dropped and when I saw it was coming out smoke from the printer, so I unplugged the plug. The problem is that when I try to print something the filament is coming out thick (even gushed) even with the temperature of 200 degrees that I used to use before the smoke happened. Help me, pleaseeeeee
Hmm what was the printing temperature? It looks like it was too high. Try finetuning the printing temperature (maybe consider room temperature as well?) and let us know
Looks like you didn't adjust the extruder or print bed temperature. If you adjust for those, you can get better prints without a fan.
I don't thing the fan on my printer points directly at the print but prints very well
Hey I have a printer I bought used to get into the game and it is a Plastic Scribbler, has just a regular nozzle setup instead of the bowden. Would you have a solution to add the setup you have to it? Thanks.
So whats the point of the heated bed if you are just going to cool it down immediately afterwards. Should the heated bed be turned off after a mm or two?
Why not add a peletier module with dissipators inside both fanduct to cool down the air flow more ? Wont it cool the pla faster?
You can see the plastic warping when the printer goes over it in the marvin piece... I'll print some brackets now!
This helped me so much! thank you! I was getting exactly the over-hot on my ABS and now I used 50% fan and the finish was much better!
+TheAmusingMe
Fantastic!
Dare i say, your prusa i3 looks prints as good (if not better) surface quality than an ultimaker 2+, lol.
DrR1pper
Cheers! A few upgrades, tweaks to the firmware settings and the chosen slicing options makes a big difference.
I figure this woodwork when I had my House Fan on my 3D printer always get a better print but Jen scyene close them they have failed left Ann right I haven't had good 3D print since then thank you for your video
Hi, I have a MP select mini 3d printer. How would I install cooling fans?
PLA is pretty forgiving when printing with it. You always use the fan or fans when printing with it. Now ABS is a different animal. I've had my temps on the extruder and hot bed right, no fans and I even built an enclosure to keep ambient temps consistent. The part I needed to print, I ended up printing about 4 times because of warping. I even used ABS slurry(juice) to help it stick and still the last part was still warped a little but was usable. I don't have the time right now to sort out and experiment with the ABS but will when time allows.
But does the Fan of the extruder do not bring down the temperature of the hotbed?
Where did you get the ring that fits into the mount and holds the tube?
I've got some questions.
1. All the fans I've encountered on 3D printers have either had to blow at 100% power, or made high pitched whines. How do you eliminate that noise?
2. I recently encountered a 3D printer setup where the fan dropped the extruder temperature from 210°C to 140°C, killing the entire PLA print due to obvious cold extrusion errors. How do you cool the part down without cooling down the extruder tip?
Seems like too much cooling would also be a bad thing, because that would prevent newly deposited plastic from fusing with already deposited plastic, which seems to be a problem that I am currently having. Part strength is also an important aspect of quality! I think my problem is that my printer is in an unheated garage. I put it there so that fumes don't pollute the areas where we live. I've put a cardboard box over the printer to retain heat, but that does not seem to be enough :/ I'm hoping I don't have to put much effort to solve my part strength problems... Suggestions, anyone?
looks like it's also too hot, while this video is still true it can be better without a fan a bit first though it can be filament specific and some will be stronger if it's at it's ideal extrusion temp.
you should draw up some 3d files of the cooling fan project and make it available for download to anyone can benefit from a little cooling
wow, i'll have to install some cooling fans on my printer aswell!
i always use a cooling fan, the only difference when im printing with ABS the printer is fully enclosed and the heat bed on (so the chamber is at about 40°C) and PLA the chamber open. ive had much less shrinking with the fan than without. as long as its in a stable warm environment... the freshly printed spot is under the fan for such a short time it only cools the plastic enough the get it to harden but stay warm enough not to shrink to much
Have you tried different shaped fan tubes? Like a air knife/ flat fan design?
I think Tilescape™ DUNGEONS 3d printable modular tile system should be demoed on one of these 3d printing channels.
The Kickstarter offers alot of bang for the buck for us 3d printing hobbyists and enthusiasts!
Have you tried doing the same test but lowering the extruder temperature? My printer doesn't have cooling fans for filament already laid down, just the heat sync fan. My print come out just fine.
What temperature were you printing the pla marvin at with the fans off?
great video explaining cooling fans but you can get a better print but lowering the hot end temp a bit and and it doesn't poke out as much
The hot end has some stuff sticking to it. Is that just plastic? Also, should it be cleaned off?
How did you power your extra fans? My motherboard doesnt have any extra plug to power extra fans.
should do a test that shows string and overhangs in one
My machine (Lulzbot Mini) is equipped with a cooling fan. Looks like my settings are 40% to 60%, and it starts cooling after .5mm I believe. My prints have been suffering from what I think is weak adhesion between layers, I have parts breaking clean on layer lines, but at the same time I have some drooping on finer details.
So logically on one hand the difference in layer temperature would result in worse adhesion, so less cooling I think would produce a stronger part, but on the other hand cooling layers quicker should produce more accurate details. So I don't know if I should go up or down on fan and extruder temperature.
Or is my filament just crap? I print with ABS and I do use kind of cheap filament (Excelvan?). What do you think?
What happens with abs
If i have a fan running onto the nozzle instread of modding my printer, will it work the same?
Probably a little late but should you have fans at 100% all the time?
Did you print the cubes with always the same print speed? Usually I used settings for the filament to slow down print speed depending on the layer time. e.g. 40" as a minimum. This helps to improve layer quality. Of course good cooling fans are key as you demonstrate.
Do you have good bridging results with your fans? I can never bridge, I actually installed fans mainly for that purpose but it doesn't seem to help.
Do the funnel parts on your fans make a lot of difference? my printer does not have those, just a single fan. I don't seem to be getting prints that smooth.
I would hope that the quality of prints from any 3D printer is better than that out of the box.
what kind of printer was this that you were using? and also do you give the finished products a acetone vapor bath to make it an even more quality print out by blending the layers made by the printed head
What is the best prosumer 3d printer that uses a 0.2 mm nozzle? (with 50 micron layers) i need to build thin wall (0.5 mm or less if possible)
I can't quite make out what you have used for insulation for your bed and the abs temps. Forgive me if you have already done a bit on it. I have had varying results, few good, and went back to PLA as soon as the shipment arrived :-)
I guess it's still a matter of balance, his printing temp is too high and can be improved for use without fans, and I'm guessing when you introduce the fans in the formula you'll have to adjust printing temps again... if it was printing as close to perfection without fans
Would a slower print speed,giving it more time to cool, give a better result?
I printed some calibration cubes too, and I noticed that there was a small vertical line running up the inside of one edge. It looked like your 3d printer does the same thing. Do you know how to eliminate that while slicing the stl file? Thanks
I am using off creator pro.
Adding cooling fan is causing warping in between layer line..
Why can I do to prevent it??
The printer I use has a part cooling fan only on one side of the print head, so that melty effect you get when printing small parts is particularly pronounced.
+The Garden of Eatin
Yeah, I started with a single fan on one side, noticed the part deforming on the other side, so added a second fan.
+Tech2C I will likely do something similar with mine.
+Tech2C Have you noticed any effect on inter-layer adhesion with the cooling fans?
The Garden of Eatin
Not that I can tell. The new layer of plastic is hot when it's squished on the previous layer so I guess that heat is enough to fuse.
So I built a reprap with a Mk8 print head on it, no cooling fan. I installed a duct from thingiverse that takes the exhaust from the heat sink and aims it at the part. Something of an improvement in print quality. Very cool.
Do you recommend blower fans or regular fans for 3d printing?
Interesting .... what has your experience been with a large area print using ABS and all fans on? Does cooling the material help to reduce or eliminate the ABS part from lifting?
so it would be worth putting a fan blowing on my printer?
Greetings.
I would like to know that it is exactly the dimensional accuracy +/- 0.05 mm - +/- 0.02 mm.
Also know if this value in filament reels are reflected in the quality or finish of the final print.
Thanks for the help.
Good video.
I find that when i use my cooling fan for temps over 255 degrees, i lose about 5 degrees off the hotend (this only applies when im printing Petg - but that is my upper limit anyway as i have a (e3d) which uses a pfte tube). I can't imagine what would happen with two fans. Do you find that two fans is over kill.
IE. did you go from no fans to two fans or one fan to two fans - did you find a need to have a second fan.
Cheers mate.
What software do you use to print? Cura, Repetier?
Diddo, And what about ABS with fans turned off?
fans can be good for ABS on specific features, though fans on ABS is better in a enclosed warm chamber than dropping to room temp. the whole part needs to cool equally at the same rate to prevent warping and cracks. but stratasys machines have no heat bed and a fan of warm 70c Air in the chamber. seems to work well.
I usually try to run 3 cooling fans in a 120 degree layout for 360 degree print coverage. Btw. what Z couplers are those? I have tried several brands and so far haven't had much luck finding some that are drilled 100% square.
What end code do you use to have the Z lift a certain distance off the print? Right now I have to just have it G0 Z130 (the top of the printer) to insure it lifts off the print when done.
G91 ;relative positioning
G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F9000 ;move Z up a bit and retract filament
G28 X0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
M84 ;steppers off
G90 ;absolute positioning
What laser printer brand do you use/suggest?
This cooling system is compatible with the Gregs Wade Extruder v3? There is a link for the printable .stl files ?
You'll have to check thingiverse or the reprap forums for cooling solutions with your extruder.
Good video, I use cooling with ABS most of the time. In my tests it helps a bunch. Not withstanding dialing in the correct filament temp and speed, the only thing that I watch for is layer adhesion, but that is generally a filament temp issue.
I also think it provides a better a surface finish.
+RJ_Make I find using cooling allows greater flexibility on temperature choice. Some filaments show a glossy finish with higher temps, whilst other filaments benefit from a stronger layer bond at higher temps. Cheers!
Tech2C
I was wondering though, do the fans sometimes cause problems with layer adhesion, because they cool the extruded plastic _too_ much?
Also, how well does it work with a high feedrate? I'm thinking about building a printer, and would probably like to do high feed rates, if I can ... (Like 100mm/S)
Which model of 3D printer is shown in this video?
I am just setting up for 3d. Thank you so much for this video
will my subs do as fans?
haha
cool
They have to work and you have to turn them on.
Lol
Ayyy good to see a fellow GT player interested in 3D printing
This conflicts with the information I have perceived regarding heated print beds. Am I understanding the details incorrectly?
This video is about cooling fans, not heated print beds, so yes I'd say you're understanding incorrectly, unless I'm understanding your question incorrectly?
Would this cause poor layer bonding though?
you need to change the extrusion temperature. if the filament is too hot when it is being used, it will continue to be gooey and melty because you aren't giving it enough time to cool to the proper temperature. if you lower the extruder temperature, you should see better results with both PLA and ABS filament. there's no neet to waste money on buying two extra cooling fans to cool the filament sooner. just lower the temperature of the extruder and you will get the exact same results for a lot less money.
Disagree. These fans cost peanuts, plus I had them spare.
The cooling fans solidify the plastic much faster resulting in a sharper detailed finish.
I can print faster with these fans.
I can print hotter and get a shiny finish from the plastic at these higher temperatures.
Small parts (like in this video) look much better than without the fans active.
Adding these cooling fans have added another level of quality printing to my parts. I highly recommend giving them a try.
Tech2C what if I don't have a 3D printer? I am on a robotic team and we have a 3D printer that we share. it's a Makerbot replicator 2. would the fans help the filament stay on the platform?
Great vids mate! Nice clear speech and quality! GO ON!
wow this is amazing info and its very clear to see the benefits
Fans can help but, I mean the nozzle temp is just too high... you can configure it properly to work without the cooling fans also.
If you thought of the top face of the cube as two triangles and measured their hypotenuse, you would get much more dramatic results.
you have the stl files for you fan mod?
what was the temperature you used for the PLA?
Definitely, top quality tutorials. Subscribed.Thanks.
Very nice tip. Do you use a bowden extruder? Where did you download these fans parts?
+Williams Farias
Yes I use Bowden. Checkout my Thingiverse page for parts www.thingiverse.com/Tech2C/designs