@@RotarySMP I hope that's the case. The alternative is, I'm not as good as I used to be, and I refuse to accept that. It must be inflation. Yep inflation...
Even in an industrial setting, jumpering the e-stop is sometimes still the safer option. bypassing a particular sensor and clearing the fault in manual mode vs putting on a wrench that could crush your hand or come around and smack you when you release the brake.
Thanks for the feedback on that. I did a few maintenance shuts at a particle and plywood factory with my Dad while I was doing my aircraft mechanic apprenticeship, and was impressed that industrial plants are much better at worker safety than the aviation industry.
Yeah, those are Knipex parallel jaw pliers. A really nice tool, as the Tapmatic is imperial, and the wrenching flat is larger than my largest wrench in my aircraft tool box.
Oh a MAHO video wasn't expecting that. Also to keep the finance minister happy you should plan a Beatles related project for ev3ry machine, it seems to have worked with the 3d printer and the furnace.
Just a thought on the ring light and anti-rotation bar setup, would it be worth making a custom bottle where there is a thread set in to in the head of the bolt to screw the anti-rotation bar into so you can leave the ring light attached all the time and just screw the bar in - Might be a cool 'mini' project :)
the haimer is fairly easy to take apart. there's some springs inside that connect the gear train with the probe tip. the top of the probe (inside) has a ball that rests in a socket. i crashed mine badly and deformed the socket where it didn't contact the top of the socket immediately so it was way off. my dad bent the pin (presumably the one that holds the long spring that goes across the back of the dial mechanism) that connects the rod to the gear train to get it to read 0,005 mm under, which is fine. it's possible if you crash it even worse that it won't read at all. so either the connection to the gear train is interrupted (perhaps previous owner dropped it?) or the ball socket is damaged beyond repair
@@RotarySMP I have 2 that uses the same plate. A DLZ 603 ( theoretic a Martin lathe , but they ware also made in Romania for the Martin company to resell) and a Aris Arad SNA 560 . Both are made in my country, Romania .
That tool #7 V’s #8 was sure a tense moment……. It’s always something. Nice to see that fine machine has machined something useful….. but wait, we need to know whether it worked on the customer’s lathe 😜
For a machine like this, usually you'd have a way to manually move an axis with the power disconnected. That way you wouldn't need to short anything in the control panel to get it moved off the hard stop. It's probably more of a pain than you'd want to go into for the Maho but it's worth keeping in mind for CNC conversions that you will eventually want to move an axis unpowered.
There is a hex drive on the end of each motor. I use this if I trigger the Y end stop. But Z also has a brake, so you need to take up the weight on the drive hex, and then release the motor. The MAHO was originally configured like that. I find it easier to just jumper it. This is the second time I have needed to do it.
@@RotarySMP Like I said in my other comment this problem is common on Machines that have this layout. Hermles have a Button in the electrical cabinet that enables you to bridge the end stops and move out of it. Although you shouldn't have to manually move the axis back when you accidentally run into them during use. My Hermle has 2 end stops, one for E-Stop and one acts as a soft stop that stops all movement in that direction and will only allow you to move back out.
@@vonSaufenberg Linux CNC has software soft stops, but the issue is that the index marks on the linear encoders are very close to the ends of travel, so you dont need much beyond to E-Stop.
@@RotarySMP Nobody thought you would screw up the test piece, we thought you were going to mess up when you moved to the real one! ;) Just kidding, keep at it, documenting the fails is great for learning.
I think this video shows really well the prep you need when doing CNC work, it's not as simple as slap a block of steel in a vice and hit go. Also, do you ever do commission jobs? I've got a very simply ali part to cut with a couple of mounting holes and it would be perfect for the Maho 🤘
I don't take any commercial work, as I have neither the time (full time job, family and part time youtuber), and I dont have the skills to get work done in a sensible time frame to be able to quote a reasonable shop rate. Sorry. Thi job is for the mate who wrote the LinuxCNC software component which controls my gearbox switching. Yeah, I really notice on the manual lathe how quickly you can whip up a spacer , but how much more systematic the approach is to do things on the CNC mill.
I don't think bridging the endstops to release the E-Stop would get you thrown out because it's exactly the way Hermle dose it on the UWF series. They even have a button that you hold so you can move out of the endstop. The brake on The Z-Axis must be slipping allowing the table to slide down over time. Its a really common problem on these machines.
You went to Naxos a second time this year just to rub it in that we won't be going this year either... Oh and thanks for getting a shot of the Delos in there. We would usually be going there in a week or so... But with it being such a pain to get back to the states right now and the better halfs mom decided to have another small stroke... But thanks for putting up the clips to make me sad....
Sorry to hear of your MIL's stroke. Hope she recovers without permanent effects. I think most EU states have now restrictied leisure travel from the states, due to the 4th wave. I hope you can get back to Naxos next year. The people I talked to there said that the season started late, but that they had plenty of tourists from mid July till the end of august, so I hope they got enough business to get through the years.
@@RotarySMP Thanks. She is back at home and doing well and so far ok on her own which is amazing at 90. We have no problem getting to Greece but getting back we need a test that the US approves and just don't don't want to mess with that and a few going to greece have been spot tested and their tests got mixed up and they were quaranteened 2 weeks even though every other test was negative... We do our vacations starting in mid september. Far less people everywhere easier to non rev and a better experience. I would love to live on Naxos the weather is so much nicer. It doesn't get hot or cold there... Gotta get back there and put some cash into their economy.
Hey there, thanks for the video Regarding your spot drilling: if I am not mistaken, the idea is that the spot drill has a wider angle than the drill itself so that the drill's tip can find its way in the stop center and, well, center itself. So, spot drilling deeper than leaving just a cone defeats this purpose, as well as using a 90 deg spotting drill (if I can estimate correctly from the video, if not, please disregard this last note) BR, Thanos
Thanks for that input. I hadn't thought that through. I buy 90 spot drills so I can also chamfer the edge with the same tool, but it makes total sense what you are saying about using a wider spot angle than the drill point. Must remember that nexttime I buy a spot drill.
Evening and servus good Sir, Vienna you say? Either you are not native or have perfected the english pronunciation but I hear not one bit of accent that I would expect from a Viennese person ^^ Looking forward to the next part :) Have a nice weekend!
Next time think about to come at Heraklion. i will accommodate you in a pleasant private apartment near the beach. I will also show you my homeshop. :)
Since the bolt doesn't take much load could you drill and tap the bolt you use to hold your light and reduce the thread size of the bar for the tapping tool?
This not hydraulic. It is similar to this one. www.contorion.at/elektrowerkzeug/wte-nc-schnellspannbohrfutter-din69871-a-spann-d-2-5-16mm-sk40-a-l-92mm-21023673?aid=269434958572&targetid=aud-784412690575:pla-844379987176&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-NaJBhDsARIsAAja6dMReN6xHL5hc1d2xj1re9oFPohDoHV0xBu4CyxWU5fWdH85a2baMFkaAjRmEALw_wcB
Hello Mark, Nice work on the Maho... Have you been to Spinalonga in Crete... I found it very interesting when I visited a few years ago... something maybe to mention to the finance minster... See you next time... Take care. Paul,,
Nice place for holidays - I envy you :-) Good job going swiftly through the "Murphyan" hurdles, that always appear before one can start productive work. I wonder why you didn't shift the hole pattern 10-15 degrees and made a complete new set of holes with the correct measures - wouldn't be that much more work, I guess (unless I missed something).
Great work as always. You have done some nice work with the maho and linux cnc and I'm wondering if you could share you linuxcnc config files. At least I could learn from them how to configure stuff (like those buttons next to screen directly controlling the linuxcnc). Ofcourse all the info is out there, but it would be guite simple just learn/copy from you. Also the mini lathe cnc config files could help people to learn how ro configure linuxcnx correcrly. Keep up the great work 👍👍
Thanks for the feedback. I always back up my HAL and INI files on the first post or two in the LinuxCNC threads... forum.linuxcnc.org/12-milling/33035-retrofitting-a-1986-maho-mh400e forum.linuxcnc.org/26-turning/38280-pimping-the-mini-lathe
Defeating interlocks may be ok for you, but if you get squashed by a bus and the machine sold, will it kill anyone? First job is to restore interlocks and safety switches.
As the sign on AVE's machines say... "THIS MACHINE WAS BUILT BEFORE SAFETY". There are no interlocks, no machine in operation lights etc. I have not disabled anything, other than temprarily jumpering that limit switch. There is no way that the MAHO complies with modern safety standards. Not interlock on the door, not PNOZ watching the E-Stop chain, no warning labels etc. I am never selling it.
7:50 Centerfinding bridge in spindle with dial indicator on it is much more accurate in these situations. Never liked those crappy wobble edgefinders, especially the chinesium ones.
Русскоязычные, кто ещё здесь из рекомендаций? There are only four letters on the preview, and the video has already gone to be recommended to Russian-speaking viewers...
NYC cnc accidently turned the spindle on with a 3d probe in it. They did a tear down and attempted a repair. Hope this link works ruclips.net/video/V8tQsXszzm8/видео.html
I made me buttons in LinuxCNC to half the dro. that's quite handy to find centers. You simply touch one edge, zero, touch the other and press the /2 button. For the Haimer, I think NYCCNC trashed one and disassembled it: ruclips.net/video/V8tQsXszzm8/видео.html
When you arrange your next trip to greece hit me up before coming for places and if you want to see cnc converted mahos and lathes similar to yours.
Oh, I like that idea.... but am pretty sure it will be vetoed by the minister of finance and tourism :)
@@RotarySMP LOL. Always a problem with those pesky ministers of finance, that don't understand our needs :-)
@@JoseSilveira-newhandleforYT They keep ruining in the economy by failing to invest in the future of their men :)
@@RotarySMP LOL. Very true :-)
well....if you're already in Greece and want to see all that? ;) you've got email
I had two 5 minute jobs yesterday. I nearly finished the first one today. Parts order tomorrow (Mon). Ho hum, you have my sympathies.
Yeah, 5 minutes are not what they used to be.
@@RotarySMP I hope that's the case. The alternative is, I'm not as good as I used to be, and I refuse to accept that. It must be inflation. Yep inflation...
@@squelchstuff Our #1 fan Nico came around with two 5 minute jobs yesterday. I cranked up the BBQ and ate first, as they each took an hour :)
Even in an industrial setting, jumpering the e-stop is sometimes still the safer option. bypassing a particular sensor and clearing the fault in manual mode vs putting on a wrench that could crush your hand or come around and smack you when you release the brake.
Thanks for the feedback on that. I did a few maintenance shuts at a particle and plywood factory with my Dad while I was doing my aircraft mechanic apprenticeship, and was impressed that industrial plants are much better at worker safety than the aviation industry.
"He knows the quality of my workmanship" 😂😂😂
I have already screwed up a couple of jobs for him :)
Just watched your tool holder video.! Thumbs up and Subscribed!
Welcome, and thanks for the comment..
I like the door stop 😉 I hope you buy soon a Z-as indicator it go much faster. Nice video again 👍👍
Thanks for the feedback.
Nice job, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the feedback.
Really nice vid. I thought I got the shudders at seeing some polygrips at 9.30 but a closer look reveals something slightly more professional.
Yeah, those are Knipex parallel jaw pliers. A really nice tool, as the Tapmatic is imperial, and the wrenching flat is larger than my largest wrench in my aircraft tool box.
Oh a MAHO video wasn't expecting that. Also to keep the finance minister happy you should plan a Beatles related project for ev3ry machine, it seems to have worked with the 3d printer and the furnace.
Be quiet, she might be reading, and I am already one Ringo behind on that project :) Better we go silent on it!
@@RotarySMP than better get on it, or you will never hear the end of it. :D
@@betaich Especially as the cooler temperatures now take away the excuse...it is too hot for casting.
Just a thought on the ring light and anti-rotation bar setup, would it be worth making a custom bottle where there is a thread set in to in the head of the bolt to screw the anti-rotation bar into so you can leave the ring light attached all the time and just screw the bar in - Might be a cool 'mini' project :)
That is a good idea. I think the ring light wires are going to break if I keep removing it.
the haimer is fairly easy to take apart. there's some springs inside that connect the gear train with the probe tip. the top of the probe (inside) has a ball that rests in a socket. i crashed mine badly and deformed the socket where it didn't contact the top of the socket immediately so it was way off. my dad bent the pin (presumably the one that holds the long spring that goes across the back of the dial mechanism) that connects the rod to the gear train to get it to read 0,005 mm under, which is fine. it's possible if you crash it even worse that it won't read at all. so either the connection to the gear train is interrupted (perhaps previous owner dropped it?) or the ball socket is damaged beyond repair
Thanks for the feedback I'll have to tear it down and check it out.
I made also something similar but for a D1-8 to bionet style.
Wow, D1-8 is large. What lathe is that for?
@@RotarySMP I have 2 that uses the same plate. A DLZ 603 ( theoretic a Martin lathe , but they ware also made in Romania for the Martin company to resell) and a Aris Arad SNA 560 . Both are made in my country, Romania .
That tool #7 V’s #8 was sure a tense moment……. It’s always something. Nice to see that fine machine has machined something useful….. but wait, we need to know whether it worked on the customer’s lathe 😜
He lives in another country, so I will post it to him to make sure it is okay before I machine the chuck.
For a machine like this, usually you'd have a way to manually move an axis with the power disconnected. That way you wouldn't need to short anything in the control panel to get it moved off the hard stop.
It's probably more of a pain than you'd want to go into for the Maho but it's worth keeping in mind for CNC conversions that you will eventually want to move an axis unpowered.
There is a hex drive on the end of each motor. I use this if I trigger the Y end stop. But Z also has a brake, so you need to take up the weight on the drive hex, and then release the motor. The MAHO was originally configured like that. I find it easier to just jumper it. This is the second time I have needed to do it.
@@RotarySMP Like I said in my other comment this problem is common on Machines that have this layout. Hermles have a Button in the electrical cabinet that enables you to bridge the end stops and move out of it. Although you shouldn't have to manually move the axis back when you accidentally run into them during use. My Hermle has 2 end stops, one for E-Stop and one acts as a soft stop that stops all movement in that direction and will only allow you to move back out.
@@vonSaufenberg Linux CNC has software soft stops, but the issue is that the index marks on the linear encoders are very close to the ends of travel, so you dont need much beyond to E-Stop.
Real precision. A nice job man😎👍
Thanks. Sergey was sure I would screw it up.
@@RotarySMP Nobody thought you would screw up the test piece, we thought you were going to mess up when you moved to the real one! ;) Just kidding, keep at it, documenting the fails is great for learning.
@@purpleidea That is a fair call :)
I think this video shows really well the prep you need when doing CNC work, it's not as simple as slap a block of steel in a vice and hit go. Also, do you ever do commission jobs? I've got a very simply ali part to cut with a couple of mounting holes and it would be perfect for the Maho 🤘
I don't take any commercial work, as I have neither the time (full time job, family and part time youtuber), and I dont have the skills to get work done in a sensible time frame to be able to quote a reasonable shop rate. Sorry.
Thi job is for the mate who wrote the LinuxCNC software component which controls my gearbox switching.
Yeah, I really notice on the manual lathe how quickly you can whip up a spacer , but how much more systematic the approach is to do things on the CNC mill.
Nice to see the trouble shooting stuff. Hopefully you don't have to do to much more. Great video once again.
Thanks. Shame I blew out the exposure on the wiring diagrams. Sorry about that.
I don't think bridging the endstops to release the E-Stop would get you thrown out because it's exactly the way Hermle dose it on the UWF series. They even have a button that you hold so you can move out of the endstop. The brake on The Z-Axis must be slipping allowing the table to slide down over time. Its a really common problem on these machines.
Adding a parallel jumper button someplace (control station) sounds like a nice return on investment...
There is already a switch on the MAHP panel for that Axis. Good idea, maybe I can tie it into this LinuxCNC control.
You went to Naxos a second time this year just to rub it in that we won't be going this year either... Oh and thanks for getting a shot of the Delos in there. We would usually be going there in a week or so... But with it being such a pain to get back to the states right now and the better halfs mom decided to have another small stroke... But thanks for putting up the clips to make me sad....
Sorry to hear of your MIL's stroke. Hope she recovers without permanent effects.
I think most EU states have now restrictied leisure travel from the states, due to the 4th wave. I hope you can get back to Naxos next year.
The people I talked to there said that the season started late, but that they had plenty of tourists from mid July till the end of august, so I hope they got enough business to get through the years.
@@RotarySMP Thanks. She is back at home and doing well and so far ok on her own which is amazing at 90.
We have no problem getting to Greece but getting back we need a test that the US approves and just don't don't want to mess with that and a few going to greece have been spot tested and their tests got mixed up and they were quaranteened 2 weeks even though every other test was negative...
We do our vacations starting in mid september. Far less people everywhere easier to non rev and a better experience. I would love to live on Naxos the weather is so much nicer. It doesn't get hot or cold there... Gotta get back there and put some cash into their economy.
Well it’s about goddamn time the MaHo 🤦 comes out
Very neat job, thanks.
Thanks for the feedback.
Hey there, thanks for the video
Regarding your spot drilling: if I am not mistaken, the idea is that the spot drill has a wider angle than the drill itself so that the drill's tip can find its way in the stop center and, well, center itself. So, spot drilling deeper than leaving just a cone defeats this purpose, as well as using a 90 deg spotting drill (if I can estimate correctly from the video, if not, please disregard this last note)
BR,
Thanos
Thanks for that input. I hadn't thought that through. I buy 90 spot drills so I can also chamfer the edge with the same tool, but it makes total sense what you are saying about using a wider spot angle than the drill point. Must remember that nexttime I buy a spot drill.
@@RotarySMP 👍 (does a 90 deg spotting drill chamfer nicely? Impressive...)
@@than_vg Probably not as well as a proper chamfer mill, bit it does a better job than me with a file :)
@@RotarySMP I'll give that a shot then...
I'm starting to suspect that all this CNC stuff is just an elaborate ruse for showing off vacation pictures 🤣🤣🤣
You busted me.
Evening and servus good Sir,
Vienna you say? Either you are not native or have perfected the english pronunciation but I hear not one bit of accent that I would expect from a Viennese person ^^
Looking forward to the next part :)
Have a nice weekend!
Thanks for watching. I am a Kiwi migrant.
Next time think about to come at Heraklion. i will accommodate you in a pleasant private apartment near the beach. I will also show you my homeshop. :)
Thank you very much for your kind offer.
Since the bolt doesn't take much load could you drill and tap the bolt you use to hold your light and reduce the thread size of the bar for the tapping tool?
Yes, that is a good idea, as the ring light wires will sooner or later break if I keep doing this.
in an industrial situation whatever gets you to make more parts again is ok. Even if you have to jump some e stops. It's not but it is.
Thanks for the confirmation.
What type of drill chuck is this? It looks like one of those hydraulic end mill holders, but I've never seen a drill chuck like this
This not hydraulic. It is similar to this one.
www.contorion.at/elektrowerkzeug/wte-nc-schnellspannbohrfutter-din69871-a-spann-d-2-5-16mm-sk40-a-l-92mm-21023673?aid=269434958572&targetid=aud-784412690575:pla-844379987176&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-NaJBhDsARIsAAja6dMReN6xHL5hc1d2xj1re9oFPohDoHV0xBu4CyxWU5fWdH85a2baMFkaAjRmEALw_wcB
Hello Mark,
Nice work on the Maho... Have you been to Spinalonga in Crete... I found it very interesting when I visited a few years ago... something maybe to mention to the finance minster... See you next time...
Take care.
Paul,,
Thanks Paul. When we go to Crete was normally go to Paleochora. I'll have to look into Spinalonga. Do they have workshops :)
@@RotarySMP No Workshops just lots of bones... lol
@@TheKnacklersWorkshop :)
Nice place for holidays - I envy you :-) Good job going swiftly through the "Murphyan" hurdles, that always appear before one can start productive work. I wonder why you didn't shift the hole pattern 10-15 degrees and made a complete new set of holes with the correct measures - wouldn't be that much more work, I guess (unless I missed something).
The owner didn't want that. I would have epoxied a plug into the 12'0 clock hole and moved that onto the PCD, but that was also not wanted.
@@RotarySMP Thanks for clearing that - the owner has the last word, even if it means shaving off a bit of the holding pins.
@@JoseSilveira-newhandleforYT He thought it might upset balance... but these are not balanced parts anyway. Not going to argue.
@@RotarySMP Totally agree. I was just curious from a technical point of view, wondering if I was missing something.
Yeah, Maho action!
Glad you enjoyed it.
Nice sync camera and z movement
Thanks. With a moving table machine, it looks better when I clamp a camera to the table. Lucky this was not a flood coolant job.
And no maschine shopping again can’t be a holiday without..
Is the maho a sk40 or sk30?
:) I wouldnt mind going to Naxos way more often.
SK40, everything Deckel/Maho is SK40, except the biggest 5+ton machines, these are ISO50.
Sorry, I missd the question. It is an SK 40 spindle.
Great work as always. You have done some nice work with the maho and linux cnc and I'm wondering if you could share you linuxcnc config files. At least I could learn from them how to configure stuff (like those buttons next to screen directly controlling the linuxcnc). Ofcourse all the info is out there, but it would be guite simple just learn/copy from you. Also the mini lathe cnc config files could help people to learn how ro configure linuxcnx correcrly. Keep up the great work 👍👍
Thanks for the feedback. I always back up my HAL and INI files on the first post or two in the LinuxCNC threads...
forum.linuxcnc.org/12-milling/33035-retrofitting-a-1986-maho-mh400e
forum.linuxcnc.org/26-turning/38280-pimping-the-mini-lathe
@@RotarySMP Holy.. 167 pages of pure gold. Even better than J.R.R. Tolkien novel :D Thank you very much for help and great videos!
@@TheTugge I hope you meant the Hobbit (readable) vs the silmarillion (I got constantly lost in the way to many characters.
Thanks for the feedback.
Are those steel toe house shoes?
Nearly. I have a steel capped pair as well.
good video rotarySMP
Thanks for watching and commenting them all.
Dumb beginners question…don’t you have issues with it being badly balanced now, shouldn’t rebalancing be done to ensure a smooth(er) rotation ?
Lathe chucks turn too slowly, and the whole system has enough mass that such minor imbalance is irrelevant.
Defeating interlocks may be ok for you, but if you get squashed by a bus and the machine sold, will it kill anyone?
First job is to restore interlocks and safety switches.
As the sign on AVE's machines say... "THIS MACHINE WAS BUILT BEFORE SAFETY". There are no interlocks, no machine in operation lights etc. I have not disabled anything, other than temprarily jumpering that limit switch.
There is no way that the MAHO complies with modern safety standards. Not interlock on the door, not PNOZ watching the E-Stop chain, no warning labels etc. I am never selling it.
When the video covering a 5 minute job takes 14 minutes :-)
My five minute jobs always take much longer :)
@D B Yeah a 14min job that only takes 5 mins is a unicorn. I have heard of them, but have no personal experience.
@@RotarySMP The clock on New Zeeland walk much slower the in Europe
@@wilcojuffer5940 I think it is due to the corealis effect.
7:50 Centerfinding bridge in spindle with dial indicator on it is much more accurate in these situations. Never liked those crappy wobble edgefinders, especially the chinesium ones.
This one is a Starite. I really want to get that Haimer working.
the little bearing on the end of one of the gears broke in centring indicator
Wonder if they sell parts?
Русскоязычные, кто ещё здесь из рекомендаций?
There are only four letters on the preview, and the video has already gone to be recommended to Russian-speaking viewers...
I heard you can't post links on chipmaker.ru? My friend really likes his 1i611p.
👍
Thanks for watching.
Running Debian on the Maho?
Yes, the standard precompiled LinuxCNC live loads have been debian based for a few years now.
@@RotarySMP Thanks - I don't know much about CNC, but I am a Linux fan. Thanks for the reply.
@@richardmeyer418 I struggle with the linux side of things, and also know little about CNC or machining, but it is fun learning.
NYC cnc accidently turned the spindle on with a 3d probe in it. They did a tear down and attempted a repair. Hope this link works
ruclips.net/video/V8tQsXszzm8/видео.html
Also might look into getting a Chinese digital tool height setter
Thanks for the link.
@@RotarySMP no problem. Hope it helps
I made me buttons in LinuxCNC to half the dro. that's quite handy to find centers. You simply touch one edge, zero, touch the other and press the /2 button.
For the Haimer, I think NYCCNC trashed one and disassembled it:
ruclips.net/video/V8tQsXszzm8/видео.html
Thanks for that link. I'd really like to get it working.
Nooo ! you don't need music, it's cheesy !
Sure is, but I like cheese :) Thanks for your feedback.
3D Taster dismantlement: ruclips.net/video/V8tQsXszzm8/видео.html