Recommend putting a wheel on the gate. That should keep it from drooping with time. Only downside is you have your gate over gravel adding more friction. It might require extending the concrete section farther back.
A wheel will add so much resistance that the actuator won’t be able to work anyway. The issue is likely that the post wasn’t set deep enough into the ground and is leaning over due to the weight of the gate. You probably need to add a brace to pull the top of the post towards the street.
I would do 2 things add a wheel and also add a wire on the gate that runs from the top hinge side down to the opposite side of the gate with a turn buckle to get wire nice an tight to help it from dropping. I would try to find larger wheel since it will have to go over rocks.
Without reading all the other comments here's my two cents: Those are pretty wimpy hinges to support that long a weight, I would change those out. If you keep them and want to adjust, try turning the lag bolt in a turn or two. Put a wheel on the end of the gate. Thank you for showing what brand of gate opener not to buy. Glad you are back out and feeling better. Looking forward to your repair videos.
I think he needs to take the gate off. Adjust the gate post. Preferably usen concrete so it wont move when the ground gets wet. And first then fix the gate itself.
as others have posted the post is out of plumb when it is open...that is why it is dragging.....when it is closed it is way off the ground......good deep hole with concrete for the post will support it.
Hey Ray, Go to Tractor supply or a store like it and get a tire that has a pre-installed mounting clamp. The issue is that your gate is so heavy the hinges cannot hold it up when opening.
And instead of skewing that top hinge bracket clamp for levelling adjustment, and tightening the bolt past its life, I'd have just slipped it up and screwed the hinge pin into the post by a quarter of an inch.
@@572Btriode Some are born with a engineering mind, some are born with a mechanic side, most are born with neither. I would have done what you said, or at bare minimum drilled a small hole through the clamp and into the gate tube then using a slightly larger self tapping screw screwed through. Thus stopping the rotation of tube into clamp once all was set to clear? We all see things different...makes it a fun world. Have a good one!
I had the same reaction, when I realized I was about to get T-boned, I floored it and we got hit on drivers side rear. We got spun around 360 degrees but all just had bumps and bruises. I am a big guy so I would have got some pretty bad internal injuries. My thought processes I'm that nano second was maybe I can clear the intersection since I was travelling 30-35 mph and he may miss me. Otherwise if I braked I would literally stop right in front of him. Game over. We both were blessed those days, let's take the that to the bank. Love your work, keep it going. 👍👍
Ray, the top lag bolt/pivot point should be turned so it's pointing down, that way no one can lift up on the gate and remove it to gain access to your property. Just a suggestion🙂
If he points it down, nothing would be supporting the hinge point from dropping other than dragging on the ground. Or the other hinges. One of which he is trying to avoid. I don't think this is meant to be a high security gate. Regardless of which direction the hinge is pointing, you can just reach through or over the gate and remove the hinge with hand tools. I think it is meant to delineate a " you are about to enter private property" line and possibly keep animals inside the fence line.
Wow! Glad you were able to walk away from that wreck! Glad your feeling better. Turn that top hinge so it’s facing down. The way it is someone can steal your gate!
Make hinge post higher and run a cable from the high hinge post to the the far end of the gate. This will support the weight of the gate better without a wheel.
Is it just me or did the gate post the hinges are on seem slightly canted backwards? Oh and the challenge for Ray is to make it work without adding a higher gate post :D maybe 3 (much stronger) hinges would both work and stand the test of time, those pins are clearly not up to the job if you have to so much as look at them more than once a year
Seatbelts are strong man I’ve used them when I helped remove my friends engine from his Civic we tied the belts around the engine lift points and lifted out of the engine bay. The fact this driver went through his seatbelt is amazing
The ram is too high. its pushing the gate into the ground. Drop the ram/actuator to about 1/4-1/3 the hight from the bottom of the gate. Those clamp hinges arent gonna work unless you weld them still.
Part of your comtuing peobelm is you need a more solid hinges,and a cross angle cable to add structure to gate ,possibly a more solid post ,cable from top hinge area to lower out end of gate to help pull gate body up and maybe you'll need a light set of wheels out toward end bottom of gate to help keep it off driveway
you are gonna get a lot of advice from all your viewers. I had the same problem,,,, bought a 6x6 10ft long and stuck it in the ground where gate is mounted to and throw away that crappy thing you call a fence post that's holding up the gate and no more problem. a wheel will help a little .you need more stability on the main post. good luck.
Ray, that gate seems awful long for those hinges to hold all the weight. Recommend adding a fat lightweight wheel that rolls easily over the gravel to the end of the gate.
You need to put a small wheel on the end of the gate to help support it. This way you don't have to worry about it ever sagging and hitting the ground. Something like they put on 25 gallon Air Compressors would work for wheel size.
Good Saturday afternoon to you Raymond,👋 hope you got over whatever you had🤔 grab your tools 🧰and get going🤑 BROTHER 😇👨👩👧👦🏆 Had the same problem with my 24-foot gate I put a set of wheels on one side never had a problem since try it BROTHER
Living on a farm I see 2 glaring problems with the gate mounts that are easily fixable. First remove & toss the lag style hinge pins because they ALWAYS loosen over time & replace them with full hinge pins with adjustable nuts & washers on each end. That's where you want to make your sag adjustments. Second, add a diagonal brace wire between your end post and brace post to stop the end post from micro sagging under load.. The horizontal brace boards don't prevent sagging even if the post is concreted. Install one piece of fence wire doubled over with 2 deck screws is all you need. Tension it with a small sturdy stick. I'm sure there's going to be howling from the "fenceperts" but thats how we install our gates and we've never had a drag problem. The wheels kinda work but are a pita unless you have pavement or concrete. Your method will not last long guaranteed.
Wow that story was sure interesting and it also reminded me of my worst car accident and a near miss or two I had before I managed to learn the act of applying thought before action. You are very fortunate that your truck didn't feel the full impact or you might not be here today telling this story. Thanks for sharing your story.
Wish my truck had been that lucky, rolled 3 times in a Tacoma, still walked away, lol, and yes, I know about the aftermath, both physical and mental, spent few days afterwards lying in bed, no hospital though
Those hinges suck, and the post is probably not firm enough either. I'd install one bracing post diagonally inside, to (help) take up the weight of the gate when it shifts. Also, install a wheel on the end of it. For gravel, take a biggish one.
Thanks for the story time Ray! I'm sure that a lot of us have some stories about vehicle accidents and near misses. That was indeed a freaky one. Why, when the normal reaction is to hit the brakes, did you nail the gas pedal? That little voice in your head that tells you what to do in an emergency... Where does that come from? Do you believe in guardian angles? I DO!!!
Ray when the gate is open the ram wants to push gate hinge with it until the gate starts to close. So you can do the wheel thing or change the mount location for the ram to lesson the pressure. Best of luck
Yes. Pivot point of fixed end of actuator needs to he moved away from it's current location both to left of gate pivot and away from fenceline. Would perhaps need more substantial gatepost and a standoff bracket for said pivot. Got to be geometry advice out there.
If you anchor that gate post away from the weight of the gate you will have no more problem with the post leaning. A VERY simple fix. I use a tall gate post then put a cable from the top down to a mobile home anchor about 10 feet from the gate post. I also put another cable from the top of the post down to the gate opposite of the other cable with a turnbuckle inline for adjustment. Turnbuckle on BOTH cables is best for exact adjustment. Wheels on the gate will only ADD to the problem because of the weight of the wheel. Wheels also make too much work for your gate opener. Those plastic gears can't take the extra workload. You can also purchase the automatic lock which will take the weight off the hinges while the gate is closed. The lock works extremely well with their opener AND adds security to your gate. It locks and unlocks automatically when you press your button. With the gate lock kids can even climb on the gate while closed without stressing the gate. Regular gate installers who actually guarantee their work will ALWAYS do these things so as to NEVER have to come back for adjustment. Fix it and forget it. The plastic gears will also last much longer.
Looks like the top hinge pin needs screwing in a bit more ! Or get a Alfred bolt type top hinge pin and drill a hole all the way though the post and a nut and Even end of the thread so it can be adjusted and definitely needs a wheel at the other end to support all that weight in that big gate has looks like the wooden post is flexing Ray
Spring mounted caster to support end of gate, replace the two angle bolts with eye bolts and have a continuous rod with washers to take the weight of the hinge side
We've had the covid 2 times now, just recovering from 2nd. Still wiped out with little energy to do but the basics. Perhaps I need to force myself some more but as you know, when you are tired, achy, lethargic then it's easier to do nothing especially since I've just retired too. But after 42 years of working it's a little hard to motivate yourself with your channel to watch. Hope your energy levels return Ray.
I have owned several gate operers. The best is a Genie screw drive garage door opener. You have to mount it on 2 posts and mount a cover over it. ALWAYS WORKS.
Ray, glad to hear you're feeling better. You've actually helped the world by surviving when you hit the gas instead of the brakes when you were younger. Just think of all the people whose lives have benefitted because of your skills as a mechanic and had their vehicles repaired the right way. And there's the rest of us who have learned so much from looking over your shoulder while being entertained. You are indeed a National Treasure. Thank you!
Welcome back to society. In my estimation, you missed the frenzied interaction, only, rife with bacteria, annoying viruses and cantankerous people. Remaining home strengthens the bond with family, usually. That’s always the positive. The gate: a nice fixture if it helps you. At the moment, the hinge assembly appears to need serious intervention. Good luck with that, ‘cause, much like you, that task would needle me until it was solved. There are great subscriber suggestions offered and they do provide food for thought. Again, get well - and do enjoy your day.👍🏽
Hi Ray, I agree with some other people. Install a wheel on the end of the gate. I installed these openers professionally for a number of years. The end will always start to drop over time. Double wheels are actually sold for this purpose. Another working fix is to install a tall pole at the fence an a cable from the top of the pole to the end of the fence with a turnbuckle to adjust the far end and keep it off the ground. Glad you are feeling better. Love your vids, watch every one!
Put a wheel with a spring to support the gate. Up north most gates are sliding because snow. Edit: For the hinge just run a self tapper in to pin it in place.
Ray, did you get a COVID test? I was sick a few months back, it felt like the flu or allergies. Then I thought to check and discovered I had a fever. Got a free COVID test at Walgreens and was positive. Never took and meds and recovered after about a week. The way you described the effects of your traffic accident sounds like PTSD. I spent a career in the US Army. While deployed, I was on some horrific scenes and was able to stay calm and composed about what had just happened; bodies and body parts everywhere. Then there was the time I was the casualty notification officer that had to go tell a wife that her husband had died. Each time, my training and mindset was for me to stay professional. It was if I was watching my behavior from outside my body trying to keep everything under control as if I was directing a movie scene. It was days later before it all hit me. Now years later, I still re-live those events again and again in my head. Many times brought to tears, second guessing myself, about what I should have done differently on those days as if I can somehow undo it now so I don't live the rest of my life with pain and guilt but all the while still thanking God that I came home to my family.
From what I've seen, you see a car coming at you from the side, you hit the gas. If you can see them to your side stopping will only prolong the time your in their path. It's instinctive to hit the brakes, but the gas is better in that situation.
I was T-boned by a lady coming from a side road. The other car flashed her out I was late and thought I'm not stopping because there is no one behind me and she can wait a couple of extra seconds. I'd have to come down heavy on the brake anyway. She pulled out into me and scraped front alloy, dented front panel, both doors and back alloy. Although she admitted it straight away Garage allotted the repair ended up with covid so delay. 6 weeks to repair plus rental car cost her insurance $12k. All because she didn't look in my direction. First prang in over 10 years.
I had a sagging gate at my old house. I put a steel cable from the bottom corner that was dragging up to the opposite diagonal corner. I then put some tension on it and clamped it down. Never dragged again. Might help. Great video, definitely love story time. You have a gift.
Disconnect the actuator from your gate, and spin the extending part out a few turns until it's the length you want it to stop at. As for the gate clamp, bring a few self tapping sheet metal screws and once the clamp is properly rotated, put the screws through the clamp into the gate so it can't rotate. Plan B, install a wheel on the end of your gate.
If the gate is sagging, the first thing to check is the post it is hinging on. I have fixed a few that were not buried deep enough, were not concreted in or were bending/warping from the weight of the gate. I have ran across one metal gate that could not support it's own weight and sagged/warped over time - I put a diagonal brace on it. There is no way that opener and the hinges has enough mechanical advantage to operate a dragging gate. Move the opener post attachment further sideways from the gate hinge to give it a better mechanical advantage for working against the wind and friction that is overloading the opener and it's protection circuit is tripping. Right now it is really trying to pull the upper hinge pin out of the post than open the gate.
Adrenaline is a hell of drug! Had to pull my firearm once, the tunnel vision, the speed at what you operate, to hit the on/off switch decision is so simple ( I didn't have to ) then comes the bad ( if you're not running around draining the Adrenaline out of you ) the shakes afterwords is insane. Been in a few car accidents but never bad enough to feel it more than the next day. I had to make a brake or gas decision with my wife and daughter in the car, the wife is yelling stop ( backseat drivers...) I hit the gas and threaded the needle between a semi and a car running a red light, My wife was like there wasn't enough room how did we make it! Glad you're feeling better, it was good content except for the diesel startup that was pretty boring! The fence, well you have a ton of experts in the comment section so you shouldn't have anymore issues. Take care!
@@fredwalker839 it's amazing how muscle memory just kicks in and your perception of everything is slowed down but your reaction is so fast. All of this is because of someone else's poor decision.
No tunnel vision for me shooting back. I was fully aware of what was going on from the time the guy shot at me and me shooting back. I remember how big the shooters eyes were when he seen my pistol.
@@duckwacker8720 I would guess it depends on how big of a surprise it is, I've had two, the first one 2 guys, gas station late at night had a third guy I didn't see even though I was looking around, He popped around the far corner of my truck with a knife. They decided bringing a knife to a gun fight wasn't too smart and left. The second time was in my back yard, 2 pit bulls ( not properly trained ) busted the bottom of my chain link fence and came underneath, in both instances I was initiating a trigger pull and stopped when the guys ran away in the first one and the owner of the pits came out the back door which put her right in line of sight in the second. I've had a couple cases where I seen something about to happen and grabbed my firearm but didn't have to unholster it. Those cases were just thinking Idiots! and continuing my day. I was shot at as a teen for walking down a road going to school, not a fun feeling especially when I had no way to defend myself.
I agree with Michele Crown. Turn the top gate hanger bolt in at least a couple turns. That should raise the far end of the gate enough to let it work. Just the top one is all that requires adjusting. Glad your feeling better!
Ray, I think the "something" you had was likely COVID. It's wildly contagious and spreading everywhere. Good news is that the symptoms are much like that of a cold if you're vaccinated. My wife had just received her second booster in April and she caught it 3 weeks later (tested positive). Took me 3 days after she shared it with me for me to get it. Wife had a cough and congestion. I had a fever, slight sore throat, cough, but no congestion. Symptoms lasted 3 days. I've had much worse colds. I'm vaccinated with a booster last October. Typical omicron variant symptoms. Vaccination won't stop it, but it does keep the symptoms mild.
Your description of your feelings after the wreck is classic PTSD response. Now we recommend counseling for such traumatic events. Even just describing it as you did is helpful. Glad you survived.
If it were my gate I'd hang it off two hinges and add steel wire from one corner to the other to keep the sag under control. Then you would eliminate any issues with the auto gate linear actuator. Edit: ah there are two hinges!
That's what I was thinking. There are two hinges, but add a second top hinge, and the post on the hinge side should be at least twice as tall then add a support wire from the top of the post to the top of the gate at the other end.
I make gates for a living, yes, I weld them together..the best way to fix your gate dragging is to do a couple things..tighten up the top henge pin and add a swivel wheel on the swinging end..if the wheel is not possible, tighten up the top pin..the lag pin in the pole..
your problem is the position of the actuator. It is located toward the top of the gate and as the actuator pushes out in an attempt to close the gate, it pushes the gate 'down' and into the ground. Try relocating the actuator toward the bottom of the gate and have it push on the lower gate rail which will cause the gate to be 'pushed up' and prevent it from dragging. And like others have suggested, adding a wheel at the end of the gate will also help support it.
Having installed three of these; set a metal gate post, in concrete, 3" diameter, get some real hinges, and have a stop on the closing end that wont allow the actuator to go past closed. Good luck. Watching your video, looking down your wood post from the top, it appears geometrically, that once your gate is over closed, the actuator is pushing against itself, ie: locked. Get better, we need you.
One of my dad's friends has a gate like that and the way he fixed it so that it wouldn't drag across his yard anymore was put a giant rubber wheel on the end that swings in and I think he wielded it so that it would only move and one direction. Hopefully this helps you. And and also helps where you don't have that drag mark in the ground anymore.
I've serviced many with the same problem For those that refused the pole replacement they did approve a 1 inch shaft drive off the back of the post and cable and turn buckle to the post installed You also have to install one 90 degrees to the pole on the inside that aligns with the gate when closed.
Ray having dine a bit of fencing (fence building) I believe your gate is dragging is due to the mounting fence post being pulled/leaning over by the weight of the gate itself especially if the ground is wet or soft. You need a larger diameter post to swing the gate on that is tied back at the top to the base of another post 6/8 feet along fence. Easiest way is to use a looped piece of fencing wire tightened by twisting the loop until everything is tight. Hope you can follow that.
Glad to hear you are on the mend. Had the same issue and mounted a cheap harbor freight wheel tin a position that would not hit the opposite while closing and never had the problem again, until lighting fried the motor and control module. Had to be a close strike since mine works on battery as well. You already know, these FL summer T-storms aint no joke.
Good to see you up and about Ray. I was flattened by Covid last month and as a senior it takes some getting over. Aviators that know anything about bi-planes are familiar with flying wires and landing wires. Their purpose is to support the main plane structures against your old mate gravity when landing and in flight to stop the upper main planes clapping together. By extending the height of your anchor post you could rig a similar apparatus to support the weight of the gate and avoid it dragging. Others on this site have suggested how to do that. Just a thought as once the arc welder comes out it is a one way street.
I fully agree, them useless love bugs drive me insane down here in Lakeland. I was talking with a family friend of 40 years about them and he had explained to me they were brought here and released to help keep the other bugs and spiders under control. We had a good laugh about it because nothing will eat them, spiders nor frogs. I do believe this man when he talks. He just recently retired from Lakeland electric company, and has lived here his entire life so far (mid to late 70s in age), also the founder of my grandmother's church. Ray, my friend, I'm glad to hear that everyone was alive in the end. Thank you for taking the time to tell us about your life, it's nice to get to know the people we watch on here, gives everyone a better understanding there are still great people out there! Stay safe and glad to hear you're doing better. Have a great day sir!
The US is full of stories of people bring animals/plants/bugs in with the intent of doing good things only to find out that it made things much worse. Think kudzu here ands rabbits in Australia.
I had a all wooden gate and over a short period of time it would drag the ground .I put a little wheel off a old lawn mower and problem was solved. Only issue was snow and ice. Good luck with it.
Hi Ray, Good to hear you're getting better. As for the gate, try turning the top support/hinge bolt an extra turn to shorten it a bit so that it extends less than the bottom one. This will pull the top portion of the gate inwards so that the bottom at the far end will rise a bit more from the ground. Too bad the post where the gate hinge is connected is short. If it was a foot or more taller than the gate, you could put a cable that connects to the top of the gate at the far end. It will help support the gate and keep it from sagging to the ground and dragging on the gravel driveway. Get well, stay safe. Eagerly looking forward to your next great video.
Glad you are feeling better, to help with the gate too. You could put a secondary pol on your gate post that goes higher, and run a tether down to the end of your gate. Hook it up to the top of the new pole and make it snug. This will help remove tension on the end of your gate. All I could think of the whole time though, is how much the diesel was costing you as it was sitting there running. Stuff's not cheap right now!!!
Glad you are feeling better. Probably felt good to get out and move around. I’ve been in a few major accidents in my lifetime, none of them any fun. Came up on some guys pushing a car on a country road one night with no lights on. I was in a 77 3/4 ton Ford extended cab truck. I saw the car and hit the brakes and immediately started sliding, so I hit the gas and turned and went in the ditch. I saw a mailbox coming so I swerved back onto the road and managed not to hit anything! Got lucky on that one.
It’s the post. It has all that leveraged weight in one direction, then 90 degrees, then back, etc. You will be adjusting it forever. 1/8” deflection at the hinge equals inches 12 feet away. Put a good wheel with a castor on the gate to take the load off the hinge and post.
The weight of the gate pulls the post over when the gate is open. When it’s in-line with the fence, the fence stops the post moving. Other than adding a wheel to the gate opposite the hinges, you need to replace the post with something much heavier (10-12 inch) and at least 4 feet deep. (Australia)
I think one other option I didn't see from all the other good suggestions would be to drive the top lag bolt/hinge that goes into the post as opposed to the not so strong metal clamp that keeps slipping/ breaking. A wheel would be nice but the gravel is a problem. Anyway, that is how I made my gate non droopy. Thanks for sharing the story and glad you hit the gas! Keep up the fantastic content and appreciate your time and teaching.
What would also help on the gate drooping is change the pole that the gate sits on to a tellyphone pole an put it in the ground atleast 4 to 6 feet an set it with gravel. I have done mine that way. I used the gate until it used in half. An that was a good 6 years. It never drooped on me. Try doing that.
Ray, I have suffered the same. After spending time performing some critical thinking I noted the ever so slight flexing of the post. When the gate is in alignment with the fence there is little to no deflection of the post. As far as clamp alignment and pressure to hold position. After you have properly aligned the clamp. Drill and pin it from moving from the desired position.
I vote for wheel & cable. I've adjusted alot of this style gate on outdoor enclosures. The larger the wheel the easier it will roll, I noted the arm is actually pushing the gate down, it even appeared the hinge screw in the timber moved in and out (they make those as bolts too)(at least from my perspective) and since the mounting & gate it self inhibit up & down movement (working against itself) it's only option is to open, close & overload. I understand what you're trying to do swiveling the bracket on the fence & it will work temporarily but not the geometry you need. Do-da-do, Click!
I agree the vertical wood post micro warps with time because of the weight of the gate. Either brace the post or add a vertical steel post. Good luck. I enjoy your videos.
We had people coming onto our property and stealing things when we were at work. I put a gate up but with the rains we get here in East Texas, that worked for a while. I put a chamberlain chain drive garage door opener on it and it works great. In 10 years, the only thing I had go bad was the tensioner cable broke. Quick easy fix though.
There are a few things you can do. Put a wheel on the gate so it can roll along, get more robust hinges, and/or mount the actuator in the middle or lower so it's not pushing the gate into the ground.
The longer the gate is, the greater is the friction that must be overcome between the hinge parts. Add an extension increasing the height of the fence post that the gate hinges are attached to. Then add a cable from the top of the extension to the end of the gate. It may be necessary to also attach a cable from the top of the extension going in the opposite direction which will be attached to a another fence post. The end result will resemble how a single masted sailboat is rigged, (triangles). Keep those hinges well greased. Install a weather proof plug on the (hopefully locked) power box so you can plug in a battery booster. Then keep a battery booster in each vehicle. Solar panel must never be in the shade regardless of the season.
Sky a wheel on the gate is excellent we did this all the time on the sheep and cattle stations in Aussie where the gate are wide to accommodate road trains
Put the other hinge on the bottom and drill a bolt through each hinge to stop it from spinning. Or, mark where the hinges are on the gate and drag it to the shop and weld it. You're pushing the gate away from the hinges with the actuator. It will never stay straight if you don't lock it up.
Those operators are great if you install the gate for an operator. Steel posts on both sides are deep enough that they can't move and a support ramp on the closed post to support the gate when closed.
Ray, the hinge is the problem is supporting all the weight of the gate , you could raise the hinge a little bit and install a wheel at the end of the door gate to support the weight
You should consider podcasts. You have the voice for it. I'm listening to the story while working on a chicken coop. Funny thing, we have one red chicken named Red too.
Ray, The gate has whats called a "relearn mode". each time it meets resistance it will default to "fail safe" mode hence you having to reset it. Also there should be a sensitivity setting on the motor itself. You may need to adjust. Also test run with the gate connected not free run. When running in the relearn it learns the resistance (gate attached) Most importantly, Be sure the gate operates very smoothly by hand before attaching. If the gate sags after adjusting, there a threaded rod inside the arm the gear runs on. Try installing a support cable from top of post to bottom leading edge of gate with a turn buckle to keep it lifted. Do NOT put a wheel or roller to support. Operator will sense the vibration as resistance. Also I believe you can set the stop position by screwing the arm in or out to obtain stop point. Remember one thing. Unfortunately those gate operators need IDEAL operating conditions to function properly without you having to fuss with it. Oh yeah, Install some real hinges not those inferior gate friction things.
I definitely recommend putting a wheel on the end of the gate that way it wont droop as much and it will allways have support to open and close. Possibly ur gate may be alittal heavy for the system you have, But the best suggestion to help with the issue is def put a wheel or 2 twards the end of the hate door for support and easy open and close. Just my opinion, thank you for all you do and the great content.
A wheel is what a lot of people put at the end of their gates so the gate doesn't scrape across the ground it also helps for the motor to close the gate so that might help you not have to constantly have the gate stuck.
To calibrate you have to set the limits on the board . The gate hinges need to be moved up. You can also get a threaded hinge with a through bolt that you can tighten to prevent rotation .
I remember tipping a polaris ace over going only 45 without a seat belt. Almost broke my knee with my other knee and hit my shoulder off the pavement before getting tossed around the cab. And skidding across the pavement into the ditch with the machine still running. A lot of the plastics got graded down and the lock and ride accessories flew off. Somehow by a miracle I never got thrown out of the cab. I flipped it back on its wheels and rode it home at about 11 pm. The next day was bad, but I had work at 530 the next morning.
I have a mighty mule gate. In fact, I have had several of them over the last 35 years because they tend to fail at the board. On average they have lasted about 5 years, at least until this last one I have. In the past the control boards tend to be too lightly built and go out. This last one I bought is called a farm and ranch heavy duty mighty mule from tractor supply and I have had it around 8 years running an 18-foot single gate. Some things that need to be done. One is to make sure you have a good ground wire. Lighting tends to knock the boards out. The lighting does not have to strike the gate or controls, just be in the area. Also, the post you have the fence mounted to is way, way, too small in Dia. to carry the weight of that gate as it swings. When it swings the weight shift tends to wallow the post in its hole and that is why it starts to drag the ground. In very dry times a little, but when it rains it will wallow more until it drags. You need a post at lease 10 inches in dia., 12 inch is better, buried at least 4 foot in good clay. I use to live in Fl. and most of the ground is sandy so if that is the case where you are at you will also need to concrete that same post I mentioned in, so make sure you have a hole dia. of at least 18 dia. inches at the depth, 24 inch dia. hole would be better in the Fl. sand. Wrap the ground portion of the post in tar paper to make it last and not rot off at the ground level. Also I think you are setting the swing distance incorrectly. At least none of the mighty mule I have had set like that. You need to read the instructions. One thing I noticed is that you have no hard stop on the opposing gate pole for the gate to rest against when it closes. I used one of the same kind of lag bolt hinge pin at the post on end where it closes for the gate to close against which keeps it from swaying in the wind and just flopping around. Lastly put a little marine grease on the gate hinge pins so the gate does not draw so much current and possibly cause premature board failure. . Glad you are feeing better and hope you get this worked out.
Recommend putting a wheel on the gate. That should keep it from drooping with time. Only downside is you have your gate over gravel adding more friction. It might require extending the concrete section farther back.
I was thinking the exact same a small jockey wheel and a small landing strip under the gate lock so it takes the gates wait
I third this opinion, donno if i recomend a solid rubber or a air tire though
i was about to post the same thing that gate needs a wheel on the end as its such a long gate.
A wheel will add so much resistance that the actuator won’t be able to work anyway. The issue is likely that the post wasn’t set deep enough into the ground and is leaning over due to the weight of the gate. You probably need to add a brace to pull the top of the post towards the street.
I 3rd the idea of putting a caster at the end of the gate. Also use some white grease on the pivot pts.
I would do 2 things add a wheel and also add a wire on the gate that runs from the top hinge side down to the opposite side of the gate with a turn buckle to get wire nice an tight to help it from dropping. I would try to find larger wheel since it will have to go over rocks.
Without reading all the other comments here's my two cents:
Those are pretty wimpy hinges to support that long a weight, I would change those out. If you keep them and want to adjust, try turning the lag bolt in a turn or two. Put a wheel on the end of the gate. Thank you for showing what brand of gate opener not to buy.
Glad you are back out and feeling better. Looking forward to your repair videos.
Yup, I agree. A wheel on the end. That gate is too long for that wimpy gate post and clamp.
I think he needs to take the gate off. Adjust the gate post. Preferably usen concrete so it wont move when the ground gets wet. And first then fix the gate itself.
The top hinge is also supposed to be facing down, and not up lol
as others have posted the post is out of plumb when it is open...that is why it is dragging.....when it is closed it is way off the ground......good deep hole with concrete for the post will support it.
@@Straight_White_Fatherly_Figure I didn’t want to say that! It’s a man thing,,, read instructions first ! What instructions ? LOL
"Covered in the carcasses of the perpetually stupid" is a phrase that needs to be used more, way more. Thanks Ray.😁👍
Hey Ray,
Go to Tractor supply or a store like it and get a tire that has a pre-installed mounting clamp. The issue is that your gate is so heavy the hinges cannot hold it up when opening.
This is exactly what I was going to suggest. I live in farmland, so I see many, many gates. Most have a heftier hinge than Ray’s, and many have tires.
Either needs a wheel or if he doesn't want the rut from it he could use a cable and make a cross brace to draw the gate up.
Built what your talking about with stuff from the farm works great on long span gates
And instead of skewing that top hinge bracket clamp for levelling adjustment, and tightening the bolt past its life, I'd have just slipped it up and screwed the hinge pin into the post by a quarter of an inch.
@@572Btriode Some are born with a engineering mind, some are born with a mechanic side, most are born with neither. I would have done what you said, or at bare minimum drilled a small hole through the clamp and into the gate tube then using a slightly larger self tapping screw screwed through. Thus stopping the rotation of tube into clamp once all was set to clear? We all see things different...makes it a fun world. Have a good one!
I had the same reaction, when I realized I was about to get T-boned, I floored it and we got hit on drivers side rear. We got spun around 360 degrees but all just had bumps and bruises.
I am a big guy so I would have got some pretty bad internal injuries. My thought processes I'm that nano second was maybe I can clear the intersection since I was travelling 30-35 mph and he may miss me. Otherwise if I braked I would literally stop right in front of him. Game over. We both were blessed those days, let's take the that to the bank. Love your work, keep it going. 👍👍
Ray, the top lag bolt/pivot point should be turned so it's pointing down, that way no one can lift up on the gate and remove it to gain access to your property. Just a suggestion🙂
and turn the bolt in one more turn, that lifts the gate a bit more.
or just remove the actuator pin from the gate and the gate will swing open.......
If he points it down, nothing would be supporting the hinge point from dropping other than dragging on the ground. Or the other hinges. One of which he is trying to avoid.
I don't think this is meant to be a high security gate. Regardless of which direction the hinge is pointing, you can just reach through or over the gate and remove the hinge with hand tools. I think it is meant to delineate a " you are about to enter private property" line and possibly keep animals inside the fence line.
Being a mechanic, he should have seen that immediately.
@@Marc-Van-Loo That's what I was yelling at the video.
Wow! Glad you were able to walk away from that wreck! Glad your feeling better. Turn that top hinge so it’s facing down. The way it is someone can steal your gate!
Make hinge post higher and run a cable from the high hinge post to the the far end of the gate. This will support the weight of the gate better without a wheel.
I would do this plus add a wheel on the other end. I have these gates and doing both they work great.
If you run the cable from the post down to the bottom of the far end you shouldn't need a taller post.
That's exactly what I did on my RV gate. My brother said it wouldn't work but it works just fine.
Good idea 👍
Is it just me or did the gate post the hinges are on seem slightly canted backwards? Oh and the challenge for Ray is to make it work without adding a higher gate post :D maybe 3 (much stronger) hinges would both work and stand the test of time, those pins are clearly not up to the job if you have to so much as look at them more than once a year
Seatbelts are strong man I’ve used them when I helped remove my friends engine from his Civic we tied the belts around the engine lift points and lifted out of the engine bay. The fact this driver went through his seatbelt is amazing
That seat belt must have been frayed
The ram is too high. its pushing the gate into the ground. Drop the ram/actuator to about 1/4-1/3 the hight from the bottom of the gate. Those clamp hinges arent gonna work unless you weld them still.
I was just about to type the same but thought I’d read the comments first and saw this
Bad news, in that tropical swampy environment, it quickly eats exposed metal and wood.
Maybe a self taping screw would work better and not cause future corosion.
Part of your comtuing peobelm is you need a more solid hinges,and a cross angle cable to add structure to gate ,possibly a more solid post ,cable from top hinge area to lower out end of gate to help pull gate body up and maybe you'll need a light set of wheels out toward end bottom of gate to help keep it off driveway
you are gonna get a lot of advice from all your viewers. I had the same problem,,,, bought a 6x6 10ft long and stuck it in the ground where gate is mounted to and throw away that crappy thing you call a fence post that's holding up the gate and no more problem. a wheel will help a little .you need more stability on the main post. good luck.
It appears that the hinge clamp is slipping. Larger post wouldn't fix that situation.
fun video to watch :) appreciate it man.
Glad you’re back on your feet Ray. I greatly enjoy story time. This should be a regular feature.
Here, here. At,leastmuntilmhe runs out of stories. If that's possible.
He can make ‘em for all I care.
Ray, that gate seems awful long for those hinges to hold all the weight. Recommend adding a fat lightweight wheel that rolls easily over the gravel to the end of the gate.
You need to put a small wheel on the end of the gate to help support it. This way you don't have to worry about it ever sagging and hitting the ground. Something like they put on 25 gallon Air Compressors would work for wheel size.
Agree, wheel is your friend.
Wheely good idea, I'll get my coat
You took the words tight out of my mouth! Wheel is good !
They have spring loaded wheels to account for uneven ground too. That's what's needed.
Pneumatic
Good Saturday afternoon to you Raymond,👋 hope you got over whatever you had🤔 grab your tools 🧰and get going🤑 BROTHER 😇👨👩👧👦🏆
Had the same problem with my 24-foot gate I put a set of wheels on one side never had a problem since try it BROTHER
Living on a farm I see 2 glaring problems with the gate mounts that are easily fixable. First remove & toss the lag style hinge pins because they ALWAYS loosen over time & replace them with full hinge pins with adjustable nuts & washers on each end. That's where you want to make your sag adjustments. Second, add a diagonal brace wire between your end post and brace post to stop the end post from micro sagging under load.. The horizontal brace boards don't prevent sagging even if the post is concreted. Install one piece of fence wire doubled over with 2 deck screws is all you need. Tension it with a small sturdy stick. I'm sure there's going to be howling from the "fenceperts" but thats how we install our gates and we've never had a drag problem. The wheels kinda work but are a pita unless you have pavement or concrete. Your method will not last long guaranteed.
Could do with a Bigger post to, that size post will bend on a 14 foot gate every time
I suggested wheel just because it seemed to be the easiest fix. But as a fencepert myself lol I agree.
An old lawnmower wheel is what my grandpa used to use on his gates. Made a world of difference.
Wow that story was sure interesting and it also reminded me of my worst car accident and a near miss or two I had before I managed to learn the act of applying thought before action. You are very fortunate that your truck didn't feel the full impact or you might not be here today telling this story. Thanks for sharing your story.
Put a wheel on it
Wish my truck had been that lucky, rolled 3 times in a Tacoma, still walked away, lol, and yes, I know about the aftermath, both physical and mental, spent few days afterwards lying in bed, no hospital though
Those hinges suck, and the post is probably not firm enough either. I'd install one bracing post diagonally inside, to (help) take up the weight of the gate when it shifts. Also, install a wheel on the end of it. For gravel, take a biggish one.
Thanks for the story time Ray! I'm sure that a lot of us have some stories about vehicle accidents and near misses. That was indeed a freaky one. Why, when the normal reaction is to hit the brakes, did you nail the gas pedal? That little voice in your head that tells you what to do in an emergency... Where does that come from? Do you believe in guardian angles? I DO!!!
'Cause his foot was already on the gas, pushing down on the gas was a reflex action.
Wow man I'm so glad your all still here!! Just like snowmobiling the throttle is your friend most times.
Ray when the gate is open the ram wants to push gate hinge with it until the gate starts to close. So you can do the wheel thing or change the mount location for the ram to lesson the pressure. Best of luck
Yes. Pivot point of fixed end of actuator needs to he moved away from it's current location both to left of gate pivot and away from fenceline. Would perhaps need more substantial gatepost and a standoff bracket for said pivot. Got to be geometry advice out there.
If you anchor that gate post away from the weight of the gate you will have no more problem with the post leaning. A VERY simple fix. I use a tall gate post then put a cable from the top down to a mobile home anchor about 10 feet from the gate post. I also put another cable from the top of the post down to the gate opposite of the other cable with a turnbuckle inline for adjustment. Turnbuckle on BOTH cables is best for exact adjustment. Wheels on the gate will only ADD to the problem because of the weight of the wheel. Wheels also make too much work for your gate opener. Those plastic gears can't take the extra workload. You can also purchase the automatic lock which will take the weight off the hinges while the gate is closed. The lock works extremely well with their opener AND adds security to your gate. It locks and unlocks automatically when you press your button. With the gate lock kids can even climb on the gate while closed without stressing the gate. Regular gate installers who actually guarantee their work will ALWAYS do these things so as to NEVER have to come back for adjustment. Fix it and forget it. The plastic gears will also last much longer.
Looks like the top hinge pin needs screwing in a bit more ! Or get a Alfred bolt type top hinge pin and drill a hole all the way though the post and a nut and Even end of the thread so it can be adjusted and definitely needs a wheel at the other end to support all that weight in that big gate has looks like the wooden post is flexing Ray
Yes. I agree , one turn of the lag bolt should raise the gate
Yep what I was thinking, post not that big you normal fit one that double that size also a third its length needs to be in the ground or cemented in.
@@davidhenderson585 or 1 turn out on the bottom hinge lag bolt.
Spring mounted caster to support end of gate, replace the two angle bolts with eye bolts and have a continuous rod with washers to take the weight of the hinge side
We've had the covid 2 times now, just recovering from 2nd. Still wiped out with little energy to do but the basics. Perhaps I need to force myself some more but as you know, when you are tired, achy, lethargic then it's easier to do nothing especially since I've just retired too. But after 42 years of working it's a little hard to motivate yourself with your channel to watch. Hope your energy levels return Ray.
Easy advice, just sit outside in the shade for a bit, get some fresh air and a little sunlight. Every little bit helps.
Feel better Chris!
Gate needs wheels, and you must have Covid
@@garsocks No no ! didn't your hear - he had "The Flu or something". 🤣
I have owned several gate operers. The best is a Genie screw drive garage door opener. You have to mount it on 2 posts and mount a cover over it. ALWAYS WORKS.
Glad your feeling better Ray!
Ditto glad you're ok
Ray, glad to hear you're feeling better. You've actually helped the world by surviving when you hit the gas instead of the brakes when you were younger. Just think of all the people whose lives have benefitted because of your skills as a mechanic and had their vehicles repaired the right way. And there's the rest of us who have learned so much from looking over your shoulder while being entertained. You are indeed a National Treasure. Thank you!
Welcome back to society. In my estimation, you missed the frenzied interaction, only, rife with bacteria, annoying viruses and cantankerous people. Remaining home strengthens the bond with family, usually. That’s always the positive. The gate: a nice fixture if it helps you. At the moment, the hinge assembly appears to need serious intervention. Good luck with that, ‘cause, much like you, that task would needle me until it was solved. There are great subscriber suggestions offered and they do provide food for thought. Again, get well - and do enjoy your day.👍🏽
Hi Ray, I agree with some other people. Install a wheel on the end of the gate. I installed these openers professionally for a number of years. The end will always start to drop over time. Double wheels are actually sold for this purpose. Another working fix is to install a tall pole at the fence an a cable from the top of the pole to the end of the fence with a turnbuckle to adjust the far end and keep it off the ground.
Glad you are feeling better. Love your vids, watch every one!
Put a wheel with a spring to support the gate. Up north most gates are sliding because snow.
Edit: For the hinge just run a self tapper in to pin it in place.
Needs wheels on the gate , it'll help if you can get the gate area cement. For smooth operation. Glad you're feeling better.
Ray, did you get a COVID test? I was sick a few months back, it felt like the flu or allergies. Then I thought to check and discovered I had a fever. Got a free COVID test at Walgreens and was positive. Never took and meds and recovered after about a week. The way you described the effects of your traffic accident sounds like PTSD. I spent a career in the US Army. While deployed, I was on some horrific scenes and was able to stay calm and composed about what had just happened; bodies and body parts everywhere. Then there was the time I was the casualty notification officer that had to go tell a wife that her husband had died. Each time, my training and mindset was for me to stay professional. It was if I was watching my behavior from outside my body trying to keep everything under control as if I was directing a movie scene. It was days later before it all hit me. Now years later, I still re-live those events again and again in my head. Many times brought to tears, second guessing myself, about what I should have done differently on those days as if I can somehow undo it now so I don't live the rest of my life with pain and guilt but all the while still thanking God that I came home to my family.
No reason for a test.
I thought you must have been sick, and am glad you are on the road to recovery. Lots of good ideas in the other comments.
From what I've seen, you see a car coming at you from the side, you hit the gas. If you can see them to your side stopping will only prolong the time your in their path. It's instinctive to hit the brakes, but the gas is better in that situation.
Yeah thatd be my guess as well. Definitely true if its a motorcycle especially for his safety
I was T-boned by a lady coming from a side road. The other car flashed her out I was late and thought I'm not stopping because there is no one behind me and she can wait a couple of extra seconds. I'd have to come down heavy on the brake anyway. She pulled out into me and scraped front alloy, dented front panel, both doors and back alloy. Although she admitted it straight away Garage allotted the repair ended up with covid so delay. 6 weeks to repair plus rental car cost her insurance $12k. All because she didn't look in my direction. First prang in over 10 years.
I had a sagging gate at my old house. I put a steel cable from the bottom corner that was dragging up to the opposite diagonal corner. I then put some tension on it and clamped it down. Never dragged again. Might help. Great video, definitely love story time. You have a gift.
Disconnect the actuator from your gate, and spin the extending part out a few turns until it's the length you want it to stop at.
As for the gate clamp, bring a few self tapping sheet metal screws and once the clamp is properly rotated, put the screws through the clamp into the gate so it can't rotate. Plan B, install a wheel on the end of your gate.
If the gate is sagging, the first thing to check is the post it is hinging on. I have fixed a few that were not buried deep enough, were not concreted in or were bending/warping from the weight of the gate. I have ran across one metal gate that could not support it's own weight and sagged/warped over time - I put a diagonal brace on it. There is no way that opener and the hinges has enough mechanical advantage to operate a dragging gate. Move the opener post attachment further sideways from the gate hinge to give it a better mechanical advantage for working against the wind and friction that is overloading the opener and it's protection circuit is tripping. Right now it is really trying to pull the upper hinge pin out of the post than open the gate.
Adrenaline is a hell of drug! Had to pull my firearm once, the tunnel vision, the speed at what you operate, to hit the on/off switch decision is so simple ( I didn't have to ) then comes the bad ( if you're not running around draining the Adrenaline out of you ) the shakes afterwords is insane. Been in a few car accidents but never bad enough to feel it more than the next day.
I had to make a brake or gas decision with my wife and daughter in the car, the wife is yelling stop ( backseat drivers...) I hit the gas and threaded the needle between a semi and a car running a red light, My wife was like there wasn't enough room how did we make it!
Glad you're feeling better, it was good content except for the diesel startup that was pretty boring! The fence, well you have a ton of experts in the comment section so you shouldn't have anymore issues. Take care!
Bin their, split second re-action / decision……. you have to live with it !!
@@fredwalker839 it's amazing how muscle memory just kicks in and your perception of everything is slowed down but your reaction is so fast.
All of this is because of someone else's poor decision.
No tunnel vision for me shooting back. I was fully aware of what was going on from the time the guy shot at me and me shooting back. I remember how big the shooters eyes were when he seen my pistol.
@@duckwacker8720 I would guess it depends on how big of a surprise it is, I've had two, the first one 2 guys, gas station late at night had a third guy I didn't see even though I was looking around, He popped around the far corner of my truck with a knife. They decided bringing a knife to a gun fight wasn't too smart and left.
The second time was in my back yard, 2 pit bulls ( not properly trained ) busted the bottom of my chain link fence and came underneath, in both instances I was initiating a trigger pull and stopped when the guys ran away in the first one and the owner of the pits came out the back door which put her right in line of sight in the second. I've had a couple cases where I seen something about to happen and grabbed my firearm but didn't have to unholster it. Those cases were just thinking Idiots! and continuing my day.
I was shot at as a teen for walking down a road going to school, not a fun feeling especially when I had no way to defend myself.
I agree with Michele Crown. Turn the top gate hanger bolt in at least a couple turns. That should raise the far end of the gate enough to let it work. Just the top one is all that requires adjusting. Glad your feeling better!
Ray, I think the "something" you had was likely COVID. It's wildly contagious and spreading everywhere. Good news is that the symptoms are much like that of a cold if you're vaccinated. My wife had just received her second booster in April and she caught it 3 weeks later (tested positive). Took me 3 days after she shared it with me for me to get it. Wife had a cough and congestion. I had a fever, slight sore throat, cough, but no congestion. Symptoms lasted 3 days. I've had much worse colds. I'm vaccinated with a booster last October. Typical omicron variant symptoms. Vaccination won't stop it, but it does keep the symptoms mild.
Your description of your feelings after the wreck is classic PTSD response. Now we recommend counseling for such traumatic events. Even just describing it as you did is helpful. Glad you survived.
If it were my gate I'd hang it off two hinges and add steel wire from one corner to the other to keep the sag under control. Then you would eliminate any issues with the auto gate linear actuator.
Edit: ah there are two hinges!
That's what I was thinking. There are two hinges, but add a second top hinge, and the post on the hinge side should be at least twice as tall then add a support wire from the top of the post to the top of the gate at the other end.
I, too, would install a wheel or two at the end of the gate….and also point the top pivot down so it can’t lifted off easily….glad you feel better…👍🏽
I put a small bicycle wheel on my gate. Works amazing. My 16' gate opens super easy without sagging.
I make gates for a living, yes, I weld them together..the best way to fix your gate dragging is to do a couple things..tighten up the top henge pin and add a swivel wheel on the swinging end..if the wheel is not possible, tighten up the top pin..the lag pin in the pole..
your problem is the position of the actuator. It is located toward the top of the gate and as the actuator pushes out in an attempt to close the gate, it pushes the gate 'down' and into the ground. Try relocating the actuator toward the bottom of the gate and have it push on the lower gate rail which will cause the gate to be 'pushed up' and prevent it from dragging. And like others have suggested, adding a wheel at the end of the gate will also help support it.
Welcome back to society. glad you and friend and the other driver are ok
Split gates for remote openers work best. You’ll need two openers with one control unit. These short gates won’t droop and drag.
Thanks!
You can also take an old piece of radiator hose and put the clamp around it to keep the metal on metal slippage from happening again.
Gate ain't got no structural rigidity in it!
Hard story. Glad you're feeling better after the bug. Stay safe out there and keep others safe, too. 👍🏻
Having installed three of these; set a metal gate post, in concrete, 3" diameter, get some real hinges, and have a stop on the closing end that wont allow the actuator to go past closed. Good luck. Watching your video, looking down your wood post from the top, it appears geometrically, that once your gate is over closed, the actuator is pushing against itself, ie: locked. Get better, we need you.
One of my dad's friends has a gate like that and the way he fixed it so that it wouldn't drag across his yard anymore was put a giant rubber wheel on the end that swings in and I think he wielded it so that it would only move and one direction. Hopefully this helps you. And and also helps where you don't have that drag mark in the ground anymore.
I've serviced many with the same problem
For those that refused the pole replacement they did approve a 1 inch shaft drive off the back of the post and cable and turn buckle to the post installed You also have to install one 90 degrees to the pole on the inside that aligns with the gate when closed.
through the top hinge pin farther into the wood post, Tractor Supply carries a wheel kit goes on the far end of the gate.
Ray having dine a bit of fencing (fence building) I believe your gate is dragging is due to the mounting fence post being pulled/leaning over by the weight of the gate itself especially if the ground is wet or soft. You need a larger diameter post to swing the gate on that is tied back at the top to the base of another post 6/8 feet along fence. Easiest way is to use a looped piece of fencing wire tightened by twisting the loop until everything is tight. Hope you can follow that.
Glad to hear you are on the mend. Had the same issue and mounted a cheap harbor freight wheel tin a position that would not hit the opposite while closing and never had the problem again, until lighting fried the motor and control module. Had to be a close strike since mine works on battery as well. You already know, these FL summer T-storms aint no joke.
Good to see you up and about Ray. I was flattened by Covid last month and as a senior it takes some getting over.
Aviators that know anything about bi-planes are familiar with flying wires and landing wires. Their purpose is to support the main plane structures against your old mate gravity when landing and in flight to stop the upper main planes clapping together. By extending the height of your anchor post you could rig a similar apparatus to support the weight of the gate and avoid it dragging. Others on this site have suggested how to do that. Just a thought as once the arc welder comes out it is a one way street.
I fully agree, them useless love bugs drive me insane down here in Lakeland. I was talking with a family friend of 40 years about them and he had explained to me they were brought here and released to help keep the other bugs and spiders under control. We had a good laugh about it because nothing will eat them, spiders nor frogs. I do believe this man when he talks. He just recently retired from Lakeland electric company, and has lived here his entire life so far (mid to late 70s in age), also the founder of my grandmother's church. Ray, my friend, I'm glad to hear that everyone was alive in the end. Thank you for taking the time to tell us about your life, it's nice to get to know the people we watch on here, gives everyone a better understanding there are still great people out there! Stay safe and glad to hear you're doing better. Have a great day sir!
The US is full of stories of people bring animals/plants/bugs in with the intent of doing good things only to find out that it made things much worse. Think kudzu here ands rabbits in Australia.
Drill through the hinge and gate to lock it into position with a bolt. Grease the hinge and attachment point as well.
I had a all wooden gate and over a short period of time it would drag the ground .I put a little wheel off a old lawn mower and problem was solved. Only issue was snow and ice. Good luck with it.
Hi Ray,
Good to hear you're getting better.
As for the gate, try turning the top support/hinge bolt an extra turn to shorten it a bit so that it extends less than the bottom one. This will pull the top portion of the gate inwards so that the bottom at the far end will rise a bit more from the ground.
Too bad the post where the gate hinge is connected is short. If it was a foot or more taller than the gate, you could put a cable that connects to the top of the gate at the far end. It will help support the gate and keep it from sagging to the ground and dragging on the gravel driveway.
Get well, stay safe. Eagerly looking forward to your next great video.
Happy to hear you are feeling better.
Glad you are feeling better, to help with the gate too. You could put a secondary pol on your gate post that goes higher, and run a tether down to the end of your gate. Hook it up to the top of the new pole and make it snug. This will help remove tension on the end of your gate.
All I could think of the whole time though, is how much the diesel was costing you as it was sitting there running. Stuff's not cheap right now!!!
Glad you are feeling better. Probably felt good to get out and move around. I’ve been in a few major accidents in my lifetime, none of them any fun. Came up on some guys pushing a car on a country road one night with no lights on. I was in a 77 3/4 ton Ford extended cab truck. I saw the car and hit the brakes and immediately started sliding, so I hit the gas and turned and went in the ditch. I saw a mailbox coming so I swerved back onto the road and managed not to hit anything! Got lucky on that one.
The post that the gate is mounted is allowing the gate to droop and strike the ground… make sure the post is plumb and solid in the ground.
It’s the post. It has all that leveraged weight in one direction, then 90 degrees, then back, etc. You will be adjusting it forever. 1/8” deflection at the hinge equals inches 12 feet away. Put a good wheel with a castor on the gate to take the load off the hinge and post.
Mighty mule. Tractor supply unit Level the gate in the closed and tighten up the top and bottom hinges and
Also make sure your hinge post is level
The weight of the gate pulls the post over when the gate is open. When it’s in-line with the fence, the fence stops the post moving. Other than adding a wheel to the gate opposite the hinges, you need to replace the post with something much heavier (10-12 inch) and at least 4 feet deep. (Australia)
I think one other option I didn't see from all the other good suggestions would be to drive the top lag bolt/hinge that goes into the post as opposed to the not so strong metal clamp that keeps slipping/ breaking.
A wheel would be nice but the gravel is a problem.
Anyway, that is how I made my gate non droopy.
Thanks for sharing the story and glad you hit the gas!
Keep up the fantastic content and appreciate your time and teaching.
What would also help on the gate drooping is change the pole that the gate sits on to a tellyphone pole an put it in the ground atleast 4 to 6 feet an set it with gravel. I have done mine that way. I used the gate until it used in half. An that was a good 6 years. It never drooped on me. Try doing that.
Ray, I have suffered the same. After spending time performing some critical thinking I noted the ever so slight flexing of the post. When the gate is in alignment with the fence there is little to no deflection of the post. As far as clamp alignment and pressure to hold position. After you have properly aligned the clamp. Drill and pin it from moving from the desired position.
agree..put a wheel at the end of the gate to release pressure
I vote for wheel & cable. I've adjusted alot of this style gate on outdoor enclosures. The larger the wheel the easier it will roll, I noted the arm is actually pushing the gate down, it even appeared the hinge screw in the timber moved in and out (they make those as bolts too)(at least from my perspective) and since the mounting & gate it self inhibit up & down movement (working against itself) it's only option is to open, close & overload. I understand what you're trying to do swiveling the bracket on the fence & it will work temporarily but not the geometry you need. Do-da-do, Click!
I agree the vertical wood post micro warps with time because of the weight of the gate. Either brace the post or add a vertical steel post. Good luck. I enjoy your videos.
Cable with turnbuckle from top of gate at pivot side to bottom of gate bottom at closer side to take weight off the closer side.
We had people coming onto our property and stealing things when we were at work. I put a gate up but with the rains we get here in East Texas, that worked for a while. I put a chamberlain chain drive garage door opener on it and it works great. In 10 years, the only thing I had go bad was the tensioner cable broke. Quick easy fix though.
I did this type of gate I had to put a wheel at the end of my gate ...to take some of the tension of the end of the gate.. good luck.
PTSD, Ray. Should of had some counseling, but appears you finally managed to overcome. Bravo!
To help keep the hinge from rotating you can drill a hole through the hinge and the gate and put a self tapper in.
There are a few things you can do. Put a wheel on the gate so it can roll along, get more robust hinges, and/or mount the actuator in the middle or lower so it's not pushing the gate into the ground.
The longer the gate is, the greater is the friction that must be overcome between the hinge parts. Add an extension increasing the height of the fence post that the gate hinges are attached to. Then add a cable from the top of the extension to the end of the gate. It may be necessary to also attach a cable from the top of the extension going in the opposite direction which will be attached to a another fence post. The end result will resemble how a single masted sailboat is rigged, (triangles). Keep those hinges well greased.
Install a weather proof plug on the (hopefully locked) power box so you can plug in a battery booster. Then keep a battery booster in each vehicle.
Solar panel must never be in the shade regardless of the season.
Sky a wheel on the gate is excellent we did this all the time on the sheep and cattle stations in Aussie where the gate are wide to accommodate road trains
You can also screw the right angle bolt deeper into the post to lift the gate,offsetting the clamps can cause a binding issue
Put the other hinge on the bottom and drill a bolt through each hinge to stop it from spinning. Or, mark where the hinges are on the gate and drag it to the shop and weld it. You're pushing the gate away from the hinges with the actuator. It will never stay straight if you don't lock it up.
Those operators are great if you install the gate for an operator. Steel posts on both sides are deep enough that they can't move and a support ramp on the closed post to support the gate when closed.
Ray, the hinge is the problem is supporting all the weight of the gate , you could raise the hinge a little bit and install a wheel at the end of the door gate to support the weight
You should consider podcasts. You have the voice for it. I'm listening to the story while working on a chicken coop. Funny thing, we have one red chicken named Red too.
Ray, The gate has whats called a "relearn mode". each time it meets resistance it will default to "fail safe" mode hence you having to reset it. Also there should be a sensitivity setting on the motor itself. You may need to adjust. Also test run with the gate connected not free run. When running in the relearn it learns the resistance (gate attached) Most importantly, Be sure the gate operates very smoothly by hand before attaching. If the gate sags after adjusting, there a threaded rod inside the arm the gear runs on. Try installing a support cable from top of post to bottom leading edge of gate with a turn buckle to keep it lifted. Do NOT put a wheel or roller to support. Operator will sense the vibration as resistance. Also I believe you can set the stop position by screwing the arm in or out to obtain stop point. Remember one thing. Unfortunately those gate operators need IDEAL operating conditions to function properly without you having to fuss with it. Oh yeah, Install some real hinges not those inferior gate friction things.
I definitely recommend putting a wheel on the end of the gate that way it wont droop as much and it will allways have support to open and close. Possibly ur gate may be alittal heavy for the system you have, But the best suggestion to help with the issue is def put a wheel or 2 twards the end of the hate door for support and easy open and close. Just my opinion, thank you for all you do and the great content.
A wheel is what a lot of people put at the end of their gates so the gate doesn't scrape across the ground it also helps for the motor to close the gate so that might help you not have to constantly have the gate stuck.
Glad you are feeling better.
To calibrate you have to set the limits on the board . The gate hinges need to be moved up. You can also get a threaded hinge with a through bolt that you can tighten to prevent rotation .
I remember tipping a polaris ace over going only 45 without a seat belt. Almost broke my knee with my other knee and hit my shoulder off the pavement before getting tossed around the cab. And skidding across the pavement into the ditch with the machine still running. A lot of the plastics got graded down and the lock and ride accessories flew off. Somehow by a miracle I never got thrown out of the cab. I flipped it back on its wheels and rode it home at about 11 pm. The next day was bad, but I had work at 530 the next morning.
I have a mighty mule gate. In fact, I have had several of them over the last 35 years because they tend to fail at the board. On average they have lasted about 5 years, at least until this last one I have. In the past the control boards tend to be too lightly built and go out. This last one I bought is called a farm and ranch heavy duty mighty mule from tractor supply and I have had it around 8 years running an 18-foot single gate.
Some things that need to be done. One is to make sure you have a good ground wire. Lighting tends to knock the boards out. The lighting does not have to strike the gate or controls, just be in the area.
Also, the post you have the fence mounted to is way, way, too small in Dia. to carry the weight of that gate as it swings. When it swings the weight shift tends to wallow the post in its hole and that is why it starts to drag the ground.
In very dry times a little, but when it rains it will wallow more until it drags. You need a post at lease 10 inches in dia., 12 inch is better, buried at least 4 foot in good clay. I use to live in Fl. and most of the ground is sandy so if that is the case where you are at you will also need to concrete that same post I mentioned in, so make sure you have a hole dia. of at least 18 dia. inches at the depth, 24 inch dia. hole would be better in the Fl. sand. Wrap the ground portion of the post in tar paper to make it last and not rot off at the ground level.
Also I think you are setting the swing distance incorrectly. At least none of the mighty mule I have had set like that. You need to read the instructions.
One thing I noticed is that you have no hard stop on the opposing gate pole for the gate to rest against when it closes. I used one of the same kind of lag bolt hinge pin at the post on end where it closes for the gate to close against which keeps it from swaying in the wind and just flopping around. Lastly put a little marine grease on the gate hinge pins so the gate does not draw so much current and possibly cause premature board failure. .
Glad you are feeing better and hope you get this worked out.