I have been driving/racing slants since 1974. I have never had a cam/oil pump gear failure. I run the standard aftermarket replacement oil pump (high volume compared to the stock pump), but not the High volume pump (M-66hv). I turn my 170 engines up to 7,000 rpm, and my 225 engine up to 6,500 rpm. I also run nitrous, and turbos (not both on the same engine). I have not had a oil related engine failure since 1976. PS: I run 10-30 dino oil.
I added an oil squirter for oil pump gear for more oiling. It has pressure valve built inside and it goes to empty pocket of oil pump. I also ported and drilled all oil passages from block and oil pump to free up the flow.
Another thing that I have found and had been found by others is that the cam walk varies greatly among these . Adding lift. Lifter rotating, that all adds to the thrust . Buttons added to the timing cover have worked greatly in the past . I guess also finding a competent knife maker could also help with hardening the newer gears.
The cam can’t “walk” in this engine far enough to affect the oil pump drive gears with the type of gears used and how they are mounted relative to each other.
So are you saying don’t run a high volume oil pump? people that I have talked to say that the rear cylinder doesn’t get enough oil and that’s where you spin bearings.
Hi I have a Australian Slant 6 oil pump does not have oil filter attached to pump, just wondering with the rattle noise when you have cam on lath I have a similar noise after engine gets to operating temperature and in gear is your noise normaal?
I'm just now finding your build. Being an engineer make it more interesting and informative. Please tell me you are running a high weight oil like 5w-50 from amsoil
I have been driving/racing slants since 1974. I have never had a cam/oil pump gear failure. I run the standard aftermarket replacement oil pump (high volume compared to the stock pump), but not the High volume pump (M-66hv). I turn my 170 engines up to 7,000 rpm, and my 225 engine up to 6,500 rpm. I also run nitrous, and turbos (not both on the same engine). I have not had a oil related engine failure since 1976. PS: I run 10-30 dino oil.
Quality video right here! I like your demonstration on the lathe.
I added an oil squirter for oil pump gear for more oiling. It has pressure valve built inside and it goes to empty pocket of oil pump. I also ported and drilled all oil passages from block and oil pump to free up the flow.
Another thing that I have found and had been found by others is that the cam walk varies greatly among these . Adding lift. Lifter rotating, that all adds to the thrust . Buttons added to the timing cover have worked greatly in the past .
I guess also finding a competent knife maker could also help with hardening the newer gears.
The cam can’t “walk” in this engine far enough to affect the oil pump drive gears with the type of gears used and how they are mounted relative to each other.
Did you ever figure it out? Had the same problem happen...
So are you saying don’t run a high volume oil pump? people that I have talked to say that the rear cylinder doesn’t get enough oil and that’s where you spin bearings.
Hi I have a Australian Slant 6 oil pump does not have oil filter attached to pump, just wondering with the rattle noise when you have cam on lath I have a similar noise after engine gets to operating temperature and in gear is your noise normaal?
I'm just now finding your build. Being an engineer make it more interesting and informative. Please tell me you are running a high weight oil like 5w-50 from amsoil
No the engine isn't sloppy enough for that. 10W-30 Mobile 1 is what I set the engine up for.
Cool 😎
No body has slant blues like you im about to just give up befour I even start messing with mine go back to stock except life in the slow lane
I can't disagree with that, a stock Slant will give you little grief.