I’m no pro at electrical or re-wiring a vehicle but have either fixed or replaced some myself as well . It’s been said many times in his videos and I totally agree “ label every connection as you remove them “ . We are not perfect , we are likely to,forget . I was just looking at the dash from my ‘73 cj5 in my basement stored for next spring until I get back to work on my restoration. Sure , I knew EVERY connection when I took them off , now I’ve got to reason them out if I cannot remember . I’ll get it , but it pays to tag them . Lay out the new harness side by side with the original tagged harness . It’ll take awhile but you’ll find the method of madness . Start by tagging each section and where it’s routed and work on one section at a time . Don’t cut wires until your sure you’ve got all the sections in place and set in place correctly . Same goes for terminating them . You want to be sure you’ve got them routed correctly before you trim lengths and crimp on terminals . Besides , some connectors can’t fit through places like firewall holes . They have to be routed first , terminated last when your sure all is correct with routing and length . Nothing worse than wasting wire , connectors and time . Do not rush , always be sure . Think also about how you may have seen wire lengths either too short or long on the original harness . You have the unique opportunity to improve on production line errors and quality control issues . They give you plenty of wire length , don’t worry . All that you’ve got to do is find what may have to be saved from the original harness if it’s not present in the new one . There may be added wiring for future planning such as adding air conditioning , electric chokes , additional gauges , etc. Metal crimp terminals and plastic connectors will have to be noted and ordered if not in the kit . You pay good money for these kits , take pictures and send them to their customer service if you need their help / advice .
hi mike thank you so much for you reply forgot to say have stripped the seats in mine as springs and frame need making good , looking forward to seeing you tackle that, i was a tool maker back in the day so know a bit have the workshop manual but seeing you do it fills in the gaps ,,i have to say you don't call yourself an expert but you sound like one, and one you can be understand so thanks again
The small touches are taking me the most amount of time. I've spent over a week just trying to get the hard doors and the hardtop to align and close right.
@@coolguy_CJ7 You know , that’s a good point . Everyone who gets to stand around with their hands in their pockets because their not building a jeep but want the first ride or drive are famous for saying “ what’s the problem , just bolt it together , it’s a jeep ! “ . What they don’t realize is that with any vehicle , including a jeep , it’s all fit and finish . It DOESN’T just “ bolt together “ . At the very least , you have to align it . But these are the same people who say replacing floors in a jeep is easy because they’re flat . You know better . You’ll never find them unbolting or cutting off frozen fasteners and dodging rust falling in their eyes . This is why I would love for them to see your videos . Although you provide content with clean parts awaiting refinishing , you explain what it takes to get there . Videos like yours separate the wanna be from the do’er . Above all , it’s a jeep thing .glad your doing your part to edumacate them ✌🏻
Hello Cool Guy, I bought a 1978 cj5 earlier in the year. Your videos has helped a lot. What size fusible link do i need for the main red power wire? thank you
Don't be afraid. It's only AMC voodoo. :) They were horrible with electrical systems. It really comes down to the proper grounding and know where and what is grounded. Email me at dellis6914@gmail.com and I can send you a full wiring diagram. All I ask it that you subscribe. :)
I totally forgot to share / comment on the duraspark and / or duraspark 2 ignition . From what I’ve learned : starting from the firewall bulkhead connector , the red w / white tracer ign. ON splits into two . One goes to the two wire ign. module plug red wire , the other onto the ign. coil positive post . The blue wire from the START position on ignition switch splits on the engine side of the firewall through the bulkhead connector as well . One goes to the S terminal on the starter solenoid relay and also had a blue wire split from that into a pin out to the ECM . The other blue wire split at the firewall bulkhead connector went to the ignition module two wire plug white wire . That serves as a bypass for the ignition module . Just as the I terminal of the starter solenoid relay serves as a bypass for the ignition coil positive , when voltage drops while starter circuit is live , the blue wire will replace the loss of ign. ON voltage by using voltage from the blue START wire for the ignition module as well as the ignition coil gets its replaced voltage through the I terminal starter solenoid relay bypass when the S post is live , the I post is live . When the key is released from START , the voltage returns normal to the ign. coil positive red w / white tracer and the red w / white tracer to two wire plug into the ignition module . The four wire plug coming out of the ignition module : you may see black , orange , violet and green . The green , yes , goes to the ignition coil on its negative side . The black is the ignition module and distributor ground . It’s good to splice an additional wire onto the black wire to add a ground since aluminum ( distributor and ignition module ) is not as good a ground as steel or cast iron . The violet and orange wires go into the distributor as well but to the magnetic trigger . On a post emissions system , the violet wire is missing from the four wire ignition module harness . That’s why the nutter bypass has you jump the connector . I used a 1980 ignition module with four wire and two wire plugs . If removing an ECM ( state inspection rules may apply ) the violet wire comes out of the ECM and to the distributor . The orange wire will go into the ECM and exit to the distributor . A wiring diagram will show the violet wire emerge out of another pin out as well , but essentially the previously mentioned wires will ultimately go to where previously mentioned . All we have to know is what wire , by color code , goes where if we are making our own harness or using an after market for the duraspark / duraspark 2 . Note : you won’t see the I terminal starter solenoid relay bypass wire go directly to the ignition coil positive post because it travels from the I post directly up the main firewall harness and splices to the ign. red w / white tracer coming from the firewall bulkhead connector , hidden from view . The ign. red w / tracer and the blue START wires are single wires from the ignition switch but are double crimped in what bulkhead connector cavity they emerge as double red w / white tracer and double blue . Each cavity will have the two wires going their own direction as previously mentioned .
Yes , the auto trans starter solenoid relay has a third terminal on its bottom side . It is wired to the neutral safety switch . Us manual trans guys don’t worry about those things but it is something we all should be versed with . The pigtail socket , red w/tracer you spoke of on the IGN. coil positive harness side , yes , that is for a condenser / capacitor . It’s just an RFI filter to reduce or hopefully eliminate static on the am/fm radios of the past era . An HEI distributor had one on its ignition module harness inside the distributor . Without these condenser/capacitors , our radios would transmit high pitch interference through the stereo system . It sounded like the bugs bunny cartoon when bugs was radioing the NASA console . Yeah , had to be there .
@@coolguy_CJ7 We had to be extremely careful around Marvin the Martian . He had an acme disintegrating gun . He didn’t appear much , he had attitude problems .
@@coolguy_CJ7 Because our vehicles have the melenial anti theft device , our vehicles are less prone to theft . By the time they google it , we’ll be all over them . But yes , we are a rare commodity . If people could drive a car with their hands in their pockets , they would . I’m convinced .
great content just got a 79 right hand cj7 over here in the uk total novice so your knowledge is great doing the wiring so thanks, noticed the coil break lines (i think) did you bend those for vibration as look trick could you explain what they are thanks again for your help
Great job on this engine harness as well as the other videos. I am restoring - groung up and boly-by-bolt a 1982 CJ7 Limited. very much you did. I noticed that your terminal connectors look new, I had a hard time refurbishing these connectos on the last YJ restore. Can you buy the coinnectors new or how are you restoring the connectors - they look brand new. thanks for your effort and time.
I must respectfully agree. I was not clear enough about what years you would "need" to do the bypass with. I was thinking that the video was more of a base level explanation. Although I do believe that the full emission control and computer started in 82. :)
@@coolguy_CJ7 That's a question for the ages. The '82 258 I'm restoring has an air injection system, but is missing the computer. I have heard of some '82s that had the computer, but I've never personally seen it first hand. Regardless, nothing is more satisfying than stripping that junk out and selling it for parts.
I believe all 10 years. 76-86. There are slight differences in the fender structure for wide track axles and narrow track axles, but all of them have the fender mount holes for the starter solenoid.
In my 83 cj7, there is a diagnostic port mounted on the passenger side fender well under the hood but in the 10150 harness, I see nothing showing how/qhat to wire to it or is it even needed???
Not needed. It was how the mechanic could plug into the ECM but you need a special reader to connect to it. Good luck finding a mechanic with that type of reader :) Do you plan to keep the ECM or do a HEI distributor and remove all the excess wiring and vacuum hoses?
We are removing the computer completely, however, the carb is now throwing us for a loop. How do we fix this or do we have to get a new carburetor?? We have the hei distributor already installed.
@@tarapritchett5455 carb problems are a different animal. Could need a rebuild, or could be a vacuum leak. Of course, it could also be a timing issue, a fuel pump problem, clogged fuel filter…etc. email me at dellis6914@gmail.com and let’s see what I can help with.
Perfect! I have a Painless wiring harness the PO gave me. I’ve been scared to tackle the project! Thanks for your videos!
I’m no pro at electrical or re-wiring a vehicle but have either fixed or replaced some myself as well . It’s been said many times in his videos and I totally agree “ label every connection as you remove them “ . We are not perfect , we are likely to,forget . I was just looking at the dash from my ‘73 cj5 in my basement stored for next spring until I get back to work on my restoration. Sure , I knew EVERY connection when I took them off , now I’ve got to reason them out if I cannot remember . I’ll get it , but it pays to tag them . Lay out the new harness side by side with the original tagged harness . It’ll take awhile but you’ll find the method of madness . Start by tagging each section and where it’s routed and work on one section at a time . Don’t cut wires until your sure you’ve got all the sections in place and set in place correctly . Same goes for terminating them . You want to be sure you’ve got them routed correctly before you trim lengths and crimp on terminals . Besides , some connectors can’t fit through places like firewall holes . They have to be routed first , terminated last when your sure all is correct with routing and length . Nothing worse than wasting wire , connectors and time . Do not rush , always be sure . Think also about how you may have seen wire lengths either too short or long on the original harness . You have the unique opportunity to improve on production line errors and quality control issues . They give you plenty of wire length , don’t worry . All that you’ve got to do is find what may have to be saved from the original harness if it’s not present in the new one . There may be added wiring for future planning such as adding air conditioning , electric chokes , additional gauges , etc. Metal crimp terminals and plastic connectors will have to be noted and ordered if not in the kit . You pay good money for these kits , take pictures and send them to their customer service if you need their help / advice .
absolutely love your videos. I'm a complete novice when it comes to working on my 81 cj7 but you give me hope. Proud to be a member of the "7" family
Excellent to hear. Welcome to the party. It’s a fun ride. Reach out with questions.
hi mike thank you so much for you reply forgot to say have stripped the seats in mine as springs and frame need making good , looking forward to seeing you tackle that, i was a tool maker back in the day so know a bit have the workshop manual but seeing you do it fills in the gaps ,,i have to say you don't call yourself an expert but you sound like one, and one you can be understand so thanks again
Fake it till I make it :) thanks for the feedback.
its awesome seeing your videos! im at the end of my cj7 rebuild just putting the small touches on it!
The small touches are taking me the most amount of time. I've spent over a week just trying to get the hard doors and the hardtop to align and close right.
@@coolguy_CJ7
You know , that’s a good point . Everyone who gets to stand around with their hands in their pockets because their not building a jeep but want the first ride or drive are famous for saying “ what’s the problem , just bolt it together , it’s a jeep ! “ . What they don’t realize is that with any vehicle , including a jeep , it’s all fit and finish . It DOESN’T just “ bolt together “ . At the very least , you have to align it . But these are the same people who say replacing floors in a jeep is easy because they’re flat . You know better . You’ll never find them unbolting or cutting off frozen fasteners and dodging rust falling in their eyes . This is why I would love for them to see your videos . Although you provide content with clean parts awaiting refinishing , you explain what it takes to get there . Videos like yours separate the wanna be from the do’er . Above all , it’s a jeep thing .glad your doing your part to edumacate them ✌🏻
So different than my intermediate 74 CJ5, but always informative!
That I would expect. But maybe the basics are there.
Hello Cool Guy, I bought a 1978 cj5 earlier in the year. Your videos has helped a lot. What size fusible link do i need for the main red power wire? thank you
Excellent video. I just bought an 81 CJ7 and need to rewire the whole thing! Afraid to start.....
Don't be afraid. It's only AMC voodoo. :) They were horrible with electrical systems. It really comes down to the proper grounding and know where and what is grounded. Email me at dellis6914@gmail.com and I can send you a full wiring diagram. All I ask it that you subscribe. :)
Thank you, email sent!
Great video and great info Thanks
Happy to help.
I totally forgot to share / comment on the duraspark and / or duraspark 2 ignition . From what I’ve learned : starting from the firewall bulkhead connector , the red w / white tracer ign. ON splits into two . One goes to the two wire ign. module plug red wire , the other onto the ign. coil positive post . The blue wire from the START position on ignition switch splits on the engine side of the firewall through the bulkhead connector as well . One goes to the S terminal on the starter solenoid relay and also had a blue wire split from that into a pin out to the ECM . The other blue wire split at the firewall bulkhead connector went to the ignition module two wire plug white wire . That serves as a bypass for the ignition module . Just as the I terminal of the starter solenoid relay serves as a bypass for the ignition coil positive , when voltage drops while starter circuit is live , the blue wire will replace the loss of ign. ON voltage by using voltage from the blue START wire for the ignition module as well as the ignition coil gets its replaced voltage through the I terminal starter solenoid relay bypass when the S post is live , the I post is live . When the key is released from START , the voltage returns normal to the ign. coil positive red w / white tracer and the red w / white tracer to two wire plug into the ignition module .
The four wire plug coming out of the ignition module : you may see black , orange , violet and green . The green , yes , goes to the ignition coil on its negative side . The black is the ignition module and distributor ground . It’s good to splice an additional wire onto the black wire to add a ground since aluminum ( distributor and ignition module ) is not as good a ground as steel or cast iron . The violet and orange wires go into the distributor as well but to the magnetic trigger . On a post emissions system , the violet wire is missing from the four wire ignition module harness . That’s why the nutter bypass has you jump the connector . I used a 1980 ignition module with four wire and two wire plugs . If removing an ECM ( state inspection rules may apply ) the violet wire comes out of the ECM and to the distributor . The orange wire will go into the ECM and exit to the distributor . A wiring diagram will show the violet wire emerge out of another pin out as well , but essentially the previously mentioned wires will ultimately go to where previously mentioned . All we have to know is what wire , by color code , goes where if we are making our own harness or using an after market for the duraspark / duraspark 2 . Note : you won’t see the I terminal starter solenoid relay bypass wire go directly to the ignition coil positive post because it travels from the I post directly up the main firewall harness and splices to the ign. red w / white tracer coming from the firewall bulkhead connector , hidden from view . The ign. red w / tracer and the blue START wires are single wires from the ignition switch but are double crimped in what bulkhead connector cavity they emerge as double red w / white tracer and double blue . Each cavity will have the two wires going their own direction as previously mentioned .
Well, I was going to do a video on the restoration of this wire harness but you just explained everything I was going to do. ;)
Yes , the auto trans starter solenoid relay has a third terminal on its bottom side . It is wired to the neutral safety switch . Us manual trans guys don’t worry about those things but it is something we all should be versed with . The pigtail socket , red w/tracer you spoke of on the IGN. coil positive harness side , yes , that is for a condenser / capacitor . It’s just an RFI filter to reduce or hopefully eliminate static on the am/fm radios of the past era . An HEI distributor had one on its ignition module harness inside the distributor . Without these condenser/capacitors , our radios would transmit high pitch interference through the stereo system . It sounded like the bugs bunny cartoon when bugs was radioing the NASA console . Yeah , had to be there .
Love the reference. Sure Marvin the Martin didn't have that problem also?
Us manual guys are a disappearing demographic.
@@coolguy_CJ7
We had to be extremely careful around Marvin the Martian . He had an acme disintegrating gun . He didn’t appear much , he had attitude problems .
@@coolguy_CJ7
Because our vehicles have the melenial anti theft device , our vehicles are less prone to theft . By the time they google it , we’ll be all over them . But yes , we are a rare commodity . If people could drive a car with their hands in their pockets , they would . I’m convinced .
@@gmoney9588 Wonder if he was the guy that actually designed some of the stuff on the CJ7. It would explain a lot.
Great video!
I hope it helped. There's nothing like CJ electrical gremlins :)
Did you ever by chance make the dash wiring harness install video? I just bought a 81 CJ7. Thanks!
That is on my list. Work and rebuilding the 258 in my wifes CJ7 has put a hold on making new vids.
great content just got a 79 right hand cj7 over here in the uk total novice so your knowledge is great doing the wiring so thanks, noticed the coil break lines (i think) did you bend those for vibration as look trick could you explain what they are thanks again for your help
They are just for effect. I used a soda can (unopened) and just bent the tubing around it.
Great job on this engine harness as well as the other videos. I am restoring - groung up and boly-by-bolt a 1982 CJ7 Limited. very much you did. I noticed that your terminal connectors look new, I had a hard time refurbishing these connectos on the last YJ restore. Can you buy the coinnectors new or how are you restoring the connectors - they look brand new. thanks for your effort and time.
Took a lot of work, but if you need to or want to replace some of your connectors, then this is a really nice place to start. bit.ly/3pJyfOy
Thanks! Very informative!!
It's at least the basic. Reach out if you have any questions.
Sent you an email for the wiring harness. I am about to tackle that project as soon as I get the Jeep back from body work.
Great video! I must respectfully disagree on one point; the Nutter Bypass is only necessary on 1983 and newer CJs.
I must respectfully agree. I was not clear enough about what years you would "need" to do the bypass with. I was thinking that the video was more of a base level explanation. Although I do believe that the full emission control and computer started in 82. :)
@@coolguy_CJ7 That's a question for the ages. The '82 258 I'm restoring has an air injection system, but is missing the computer. I have heard of some '82s that had the computer, but I've never personally seen it first hand. Regardless, nothing is more satisfying than stripping that junk out and selling it for parts.
What years did cj come with fender mounted solenoid 79 to 81 ? Thank fur your help
I believe all 10 years. 76-86. There are slight differences in the fender structure for wide track axles and narrow track axles, but all of them have the fender mount holes for the starter solenoid.
@@coolguy_CJ7 👍⭐💯🇺🇲
In my 83 cj7, there is a diagnostic port mounted on the passenger side fender well under the hood but in the 10150 harness, I see nothing showing how/qhat to wire to it or is it even needed???
Not needed. It was how the mechanic could plug into the ECM but you need a special reader to connect to it. Good luck finding a mechanic with that type of reader :) Do you plan to keep the ECM or do a HEI distributor and remove all the excess wiring and vacuum hoses?
We are removing the computer completely, however, the carb is now throwing us for a loop. How do we fix this or do we have to get a new carburetor?? We have the hei distributor already installed.
@@tarapritchett5455 carb problems are a different animal. Could need a rebuild, or could be a vacuum leak. Of course, it could also be a timing issue, a fuel pump problem, clogged fuel filter…etc. email me at dellis6914@gmail.com and let’s see what I can help with.
Cool man¡
Subscribed !
Excellent! Email me and I’ll send the wire diagram. Can’t say it will solve all the electrical gremlins, but it will help to chase them away.
@@coolguy_CJ7 I did, thanks
How can I get your wiring schematic for the grounds that you offer?
First subscribe :) then email me @ dellis6914@gmail.com. As simple as it gets.
Where did you buy your starter solenoid
Rockauto.com I’d give you the link, but Rockauto makes it hard to share specific pages.
Standard motor products SS-581.
Thank you very much