Hey Jim. Miss your visits to Portland. We lost the Woodworking Shows here during the recession and they never came back. Remember us when you’re enjoying a good craft beer! Big Steve Jaynes, Portland, Oregon.
Thank you Jim, excellent tutorial as usual. I have been working wood for a long time, but never made a dovetail! I recently bought a Porter Cable jig like the one in your demo, so this video is perfect for me. I'm a long time subscriber to WOOD, especially like your articles.
Ok all you nay sayers, make your own videos.I have collected about a dozen good videos on the subject, none are perfect but I appreciate the effort, use the accumulated knowledge from each and learn.Nice video, thank you
One question: I noticed you have a much longer dovetail jig than I currently have seen offered by anyone, including Porter Cable. I'm assuming such a jig by Porter Cable or others are available to those of us about to construct our own kitchen cabinets? Where, if anywhere, can this long jig be purchased? I have a few kitchen drawers/cabinets that are wider than the standard 12" jigs that seem to be offered these days. TY for any feedback.
I need to make some dovetail under mount drawers... I need 1/2" clearance for the under mount rails with notch out.. do I do datto first then dovetail? or the dovetail first then the datto?
I have heard people say No, they do not. I actually have the smaller 4612 (or 4621?) I use a lot and I also have this same model, the 24 inch PC jig NEW in box, never used. I meant to get it setup but never have. I was going to sell it but after watching this vid I forgot how many cool things this one can do so I may get it set up.
I have the 77240 but am missing some template guides porter cable no longer makes or has dimensions of. I can make them if I had their outside diameters. G9, G6.1, G6.2, G6.3, G6.4 and G6.5, could you please help me. Just need their O.D.
What's the minimum thickness of stock to use when cutting dovetails? I've decided to rebuild a kitchen silverware drawer that has fallen apart. It was 1/2" cheap particle wood glued together in dado joints . I bought some nice 1/2" real wood stock to rebuild it. But after several trial cuts with a 1 /2" bit, it seems I'll have to thicker with the material . Any ideas? Thank you
It looks as though he used 3/4 stock. For 1/2, maybe rabbet the ends for more glue surface. Or try a through dovetail. The same jig can accept both templates. The 4210 is the half blind, the 4216 template is through dovetails. The 4210 also makes box joints I believe, which would work with 1/2 stock.
On the half blind does the stock for front and the sides have to be the same width? I have been trying to learn hand cut because I want my drawer front to be 3/4" thick and the sides to be 1/2" and I was under the assumption that hand cut was the only way I could get that???
Is there a reason why you are cutting with the router from "Lest to Right" for both pins and tails? Will the end result be any different if you cut "Right to Left".? Does it matter?
Hey Sarah --- this is the PC 77240. It has not been made for many years, but is an all time favorite of mine. If you decide to look for one, make sure you get one that is complete. It should include all of the associated stops, guide bushings (totally critical) and router bits. The router bits you can find, but the stops and bushings are very difficult to find and render the machine almost worthless without them. This jig is simply the most beefy one of its kind. Probably weighs at leas 75 lbs.
I was going to ask the same question because but you asked a year ago and still no answer. They ask us to like and subscribed but they always fail to answer questions. How rude lol
I know this is an old topic, but you can find a very similar jig from the Leigh company. Usually in stock at Woodcraft and Rockler Stores. Lots of good Leigh jig videos on RUclips. .
Yea dovetail jigs are a wonderful time saver, but.. When and if you get one use pine boards of different thicknesses and use it till you have perfected a box. Lots of confusion and mistakes can be avoided by marking the test box with instructions on it. Believe me your going to forget and screw it up sooner or later.
maybe i'm too late, but the outer board (the one facing you) should be centered on the template, with equal distance from the edges of the top board. In the middle of the outer board, there should be the middle of a finger on the template.
If you haven't figured out by now, the jig has a sliding stop. You position the first (lower) board to center it based on the teeth in the jig. Then you slide the stop against the left side of that board and tighten it's locking screw. Then you slide the top board against the stop which has a built-in offset. Once you have the stop set in place, you can leave it there and do a batch of drawers and they'll all come out the same as long as the drawers are the same height.
The porter cable jigs come with 2 guide bushings and router bits. They act as a set when doing through dovetails. When you do half blind joint, both pieces of wood are cut at the same time , so you can use a variety of combination guide bushing+bit and both workpieces will still fit together. So, there is no 1 right answer to your question. The bits and bushings that porter cable include are 43776PC, 43743PC, 42040, and 42046. Those 4 are enough to do through and half blind joints with their jigs.
This was confusing to me also, after reading the instruction manual for the jig. Porter Cable calls these "template guides", I have always known them as "router bushings".
Shop vac. Then make a box fan - furnace filter to filter the fine dust out. There are several videos on how to make one, but the easiets is to duct tape a 20x20" filter to the box fan, let the air pull through the filter then the fan. Also, wear a respirator or a N95 dust mask. Wood dust is a carcinogen.
poor camera work showing only from above the jig, so we have no idea what's going on under the jig where the wood is, at the business end of the router. i gave up after 6 minutes.
Hey Jim. Miss your visits to Portland. We lost the Woodworking Shows here during the recession and they never came back. Remember us when you’re enjoying a good craft beer! Big Steve Jaynes, Portland, Oregon.
Once you use a dovetail jig and see the 2 pieces fit perfectly tight together- you'll be hooked! As always, Jim does a great job of explaining this.
,
Thank you Jim, excellent tutorial as usual.
I have been working wood for a long time, but never made a dovetail! I recently bought a Porter Cable jig like the one in your demo, so this video is perfect for me. I'm a long time subscriber to WOOD, especially like your articles.
Great video. Best explanation I’ve seen yet. Very very understandable.
Ok all you nay sayers, make your own videos.I have collected about a dozen good videos on the subject, none are perfect but I appreciate the effort, use the accumulated knowledge from each and learn.Nice video, thank you
Wish it was a bit more in depth for us clueless beginners, but this is easily the best jig tutorial out there thus far. Thanks a lot.
Great camera work too!
felicidades muy ilustrativo este video soy aficionado a la carpintería y lo voy a poner en practica
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. It was very helpful.
One question: I noticed you have a much longer dovetail jig than I currently have seen offered by anyone, including Porter Cable. I'm assuming such a jig by Porter Cable or others are available to those of us about to construct our own kitchen cabinets? Where, if anywhere, can this long jig be purchased? I have a few kitchen drawers/cabinets that are wider than the standard 12" jigs that seem to be offered these days. TY for any feedback.
easily the clearest guide to using a dovetailer
great tips for beggining woodworker not to get lost. always back to basics thanks!
Nicely made video and explanation
I need to make some dovetail under mount drawers... I need 1/2" clearance for the under mount rails with notch out.. do I do datto first then dovetail? or the dovetail first then the datto?
Make your dovetails first, then the dado, IMO.
Good video!
Does Porter Cable still make parts/accessories for this Omni dovetail jig?
I have heard people say No, they do not. I actually have the smaller 4612 (or 4621?) I use a lot and I also have this same model, the 24 inch PC jig NEW in box, never used. I meant to get it setup but never have. I was going to sell it but after watching this vid I forgot how many cool things this one can do so I may get it set up.
Do they still make the portacable dove tail jig that you are using. What is the make and model.
I don't believe so. That was a Porter-Cable jig, and P-C has all but vanished from woodworking.
I have the 77240 but am missing some template guides porter cable no longer makes or has dimensions of. I can make them if I had their outside diameters. G9, G6.1, G6.2, G6.3, G6.4 and G6.5, could you please help me. Just need their O.D.
Thank you for this video. What router would you consider to be the best for use with this jig?
Any should work, but he uses a Porter-Cable, which is a fine router.
What's the minimum thickness of stock to use when cutting dovetails? I've decided to rebuild a kitchen silverware drawer that has fallen apart. It was 1/2" cheap particle wood glued together in dado joints . I bought some nice 1/2" real wood stock to rebuild it. But after several trial cuts with a 1 /2" bit, it seems I'll have to thicker with the material . Any ideas? Thank you
It looks as though he used 3/4 stock. For 1/2, maybe rabbet the ends for more glue surface. Or try a through dovetail. The same jig can accept both templates. The 4210 is the half blind, the 4216 template is through dovetails. The 4210 also makes box joints I believe, which would work with 1/2 stock.
hey do i have to use a particular dovetail bit for a vermont american jig? im doing everything the video says but its not working
Is there a different I saw you used a straight bit to do the pin while others utuber use dovetail bit to do pin
On the half blind does the stock for front and the sides have to be the same width? I have been trying to learn hand cut because I want my drawer front to be 3/4" thick and the sides to be 1/2" and I was under the assumption that hand cut was the only way I could get that???
Is there a reason why you are cutting with the router from "Lest to Right" for both pins and tails? Will the end result be any different if you cut "Right to Left".? Does it matter?
It's due to the rotation of the bit. If you cut left to right you have more control. Right to left and the router will try to "run away" from you.
@@patburt9558 Yes, you will screw up your wood really quickly that way!
You're a god!
Hi Jim...Why is the stress mainly concentrated in front of the drawer.
Tony Cellucci because you're pulling and pushing on the front to open and close it
What model # of Porter Cable dovetail jig is used in this video ?
Hey Sarah --- this is the PC 77240. It has not been made for many years, but is an all time favorite of mine. If you decide to look for one, make sure you get one that is complete. It should include all of the associated stops, guide bushings (totally critical) and router bits. The router bits you can find, but the stops and bushings are very difficult to find and render the machine almost worthless without them. This jig is simply the most beefy one of its kind. Probably weighs at leas 75 lbs.
You're cool as heck
What model of jig is that? I see it is porter cable but don't know the model.
I was going to ask the same question because but you asked a year ago and still no answer. They ask us to like and subscribed but they always fail to answer questions. How rude lol
Where do you find that big jig? I have only seen the smaller 12" 4216 type jigs
I know this is an old topic, but you can find a very similar jig from the Leigh company. Usually in stock at Woodcraft and Rockler Stores. Lots of good Leigh jig videos on RUclips.
.
Interesting
Note,,,,when making an actual furniture joint cut and plane pine wood to same l,w,and thickness for set up... Makes mistakes less costly...
Yea dovetail jigs are a wonderful time saver, but.. When and if you get one use pine boards of different thicknesses and use it till you have perfected a box. Lots of confusion and mistakes can be avoided by marking the test box with instructions on it. Believe me your going to forget and screw it up sooner or later.
For the half blind cut you mentioned an offset between the boards. How much is this offset and how do you determine this value???
maybe i'm too late, but the outer board (the one facing you) should be centered on the template, with equal distance from the edges of the top board. In the middle of the outer board, there should be the middle of a finger on the template.
How are you setting the offset on the half blind joint? I don't understand how you the front and side to line up perfectly?
If you haven't figured out by now, the jig has a sliding stop. You position the first (lower) board to center it based on the teeth in the jig. Then you slide the stop against the left side of that board and tighten it's locking screw. Then you slide the top board against the stop which has a built-in offset. Once you have the stop set in place, you can leave it there and do a batch of drawers and they'll all come out the same as long as the drawers are the same height.
Nice job but there was nothing about the router setup.
What size guide bushing do you use?
The porter cable jigs come with 2 guide bushings and router bits. They act as a set when doing through dovetails. When you do half blind joint, both pieces of wood are cut at the same time , so you can use a variety of combination guide bushing+bit and both workpieces will still fit together. So, there is no 1 right answer to your question. The bits and bushings that porter cable include are 43776PC, 43743PC, 42040, and 42046. Those 4 are enough to do through and half blind joints with their jigs.
This was confusing to me also, after reading the instruction manual for the jig. Porter Cable calls these "template guides", I have always known them as "router bushings".
HI! Do you recommend a type of vacuum cleaner?
Shop vac. Then make a box fan - furnace filter to filter the fine dust out. There are several videos on how to make one, but the easiets is to duct tape a 20x20" filter to the box fan, let the air pull through the filter then the fan. Also, wear a respirator or a N95 dust mask. Wood dust is a carcinogen.
I made some improvements to the Porter Cable jig to get more consistent results. Video here ruclips.net/video/hTRCSAM-YTk/видео.html
Thanks. Practice on scrap!
go to 4:25 to skip all the long talk..
Victor Rene o
poor camera work showing only from above the jig, so we have no idea what's going on under the jig where the wood is, at the business end of the router. i gave up after 6 minutes.
you could see it as 6:25
I have precisely the same porter cable jig new and unused in box complete with training DVD if anyone is interested/