I had looked at using 5.5mm ply for my extension but a lot of people mentioned using 9 or 12mm watching this I will use 5.5. Great video thanks for uploading
@@CHESEABUN Well I'm calling myself the newcomer but it's really my grandson's recent birthday gift we got him. Simple Lidl Urban Rambler set. I think his mum will be resistant to a permanent set up at their place (flat) so it might be down to me to do something in the attic which is floored. I'm toying with the idea of a board hinged to the wall so I can fold it up out of the way. Don't know if that's a feasible concept.
Yes that can be done. But make sure everything is glued down or taken off prior to putting it away. The alternative is on a hinged pulley that you can raise.
Yes you would need to put posts behind baseboards against walls that would provide you with something to screw brackets for a 1ft shelf to be mounted on. Perhaps you could put in thin posts in the crevices and join them with the back scene boards, nothing would be protruding. Use wood glue on backscenes that are already done. Give great strength to whole thing. It's easier to do now that when back scenes are finalised. I saw a guy who did this and went to a third level near roof and then crossed room. It looked class and made the whole runaround last 10 mins or so for a single loop. It then turned on a wider section and came back on the other track. Once posts are in many extension possibilities available in the future. Perhaps put long post all way to ceiling to allow for any number or narrow levels to go round the room in future. It's now or never :)
I had a prefabricated garage once it was very very damp . I see your reasons for worrying about the warping . I've since moved house and have an integral garage and is much better . However I shall take your ideas on board cheers .
Really taking shape, at a later stage could you add a shelf like level above layout approx 2 ft above that could run round whole garage solely as a running track ( ie country scene ) would give huge amount of extra running in space that's not being used. I say this now as you may have to make provisions now before you go further. It would only have to be 1ft wide so wouldn't obstruct view of main layout below. There is so much can be done in small space to prolong the running sessions. Well done so far, videos very helpful.
Hi I'm gonna be doing a video of fitting my baseboards not sure when as I rushed putting up my original baseboards up and totally messed them up. Some good ideas there have subbed to you.
This was great, I've been looking for "how to build a model railroad helix" for a while now, and I think this has helped. You ever tried - Piyaliyah Uncommunicative Preference - (Have a quick look on google cant remember the place now ) ? It is a good exclusive product for discovering how to build a model train railroad easily minus the normal expense. Ive heard some awesome things about it and my work buddy got cool success with it.
Were screws on "sale" at your local box store? Way too many screws, if you use a decent "white woodworking adhesive" such as Titebond II you will get a far better job and use probably 25% of the number screws you used. Today's modern adhesives are extremely reliable, the wood will break long before the glue joint.
Hi, I used many screws due to the woods environment. Sometimes there is a bit of a temperature change this time of year. I used more screws this time to stop the baseboards warping. Hence the extra struts underneath on the frame. On the original phase 1 baseboards I did not use enough screws.
This is just superb, I been tryin to find out about "custom model railroad layout builders" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Ever heard of - Piyaliyah Uncommunicative Preference - (should be on google have a look ) ? It is a good one off guide for discovering how to build a model train railroad easily minus the hard work. Ive heard some incredible things about it and my neighbour got great results with it.
Realise this is way after the making of the video. But thank you. I plan to use 9mm plywood for my base boards. What thickness did you use for the back screen? Also, what is the wood size for the legs? I was thinking of use 38x38mm, with adjustable feet on each to ensure they are all level. I will have 5 boards in total. The layout is in a centrally heated bedroom so no problem with extremes of heat of dampness. Thanks again.
The feet are 3.5cm in width. The back screen is also 3mm thick plywood. I used a soft wood on the first half and found it warped. So recommend plywood more rigid. Bought all of the wood from Wickes if it helps?
I have a shed that has an 12 inch bench around three sides. The area is about 10x10 ft and Im looking to build an 00 model railway using the space available. What would you say is the ideal number of tracks for this space. Is it big enough to run at least two tracks round and round?
@@CHESEABUN Thank you Richard. I started off with 24inch widths on three sides and a 36 inch at the top end but it seems rather a lot of space to fill. Im learning to keep it simple and spend more attention to scenery.
Hi, Still as good as when I installed it. We even had a minor flash flood in the garage early this year and the legs survived that as well. The carpet took quite a while to dry out though. The boards all good.
Hi just found your channel I have a dilemma Im hoping you can help I am building a layout in my loft I have found I have so much stock I need to build another level on the floor of the loft I am trying to work out how I can have boards with track fitted but be able to lift or pull out so I can work on the sections and more importantly wiring etc underneath the board, I will probably have to build a helix or 2 alternative 1 helix and a long incline then fix a board about 18" - 2ft on legs (cant remember what the height on the built part is exact) would you or anyone know how I can build two levels with a removable bottom level? I intend to use metal contacts under the rails at the end of each removable lower board.
Sorry for the late response, Had a few family issues to sort out. I personally don’t know anyone who has gone for the removable lower deck. A friend of mine has a fixed lower deck with a Helix. Some trains do struggle on the incline of the helix though. A long incline should work better? There are a few on RUclips with double and even triple decks. I would send them a message. Most modellers are more than willing to help. Sorry I couldn’t help more but I haven’t gone down this road. Cheers Richard.
@@CHESEABUN thats ok i am just concerned if i put a permanent lower deck after thinking ive completed it build the top deck with legs standing on the lower then find I need to add something else more wiring track etc and cant get underneath
Such a large garage....you should have isolated it very well and maybe even some kind of heating. Now it's damp and cold and in summer it will be very very hot and you are gonna build a layout there ? With all you expensive trains .... I wouldn't for sure ...
I have insulated it recently. So far so good. It’s been up now for about 12 years. At first I had condensation problems during Winter variable temperatures.. Then I insulated the roof. The walls I haven’t done. I have a portable heater that takes the edge off the cold.The only slight problem is creepy Crawley insects this time of year.
This is just superb, I been tryin to find out about "what is the best model train manufacturer?" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Have you heard people talk about - Piyaliyah Uncommunicative Preference - (Have a quick look on google cant remember the place now ) ? It is a great one of a kind product for discovering how to build a model train railroad easily without the hard work. Ive heard some decent things about it and my m8 got cool success with it.
Winner of a video, been searching for "how to build a hornby train layout" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Ever heard of - Piyaliyah Uncommunicative Preference - (should be on google have a look ) ? It is a good one of a kind product for discovering how to build a model train railroad easily minus the headache. Ive heard some extraordinary things about it and my work buddy got excellent results with it.
I had looked at using 5.5mm ply for my extension but a lot of people mentioned using 9 or 12mm watching this I will use 5.5. Great video thanks for uploading
Did you use 5.5? If so you made a mistake. 9mm is the absolute minimum. 12mm is recommended but 18 or 22 is way better.
@@tgk300xx4Exactly and 5.5mm would sag more than a granny’s fanny!!!!
@@LordBonesaw Correct, 12mm is ideal.
Very useful thank you. Nice of you to take the time to video it for newcomers like me. Much appreciated.
Your welcome, Enjoy this really interesting hobby! Whereabouts are you siting the layout?
@@CHESEABUN Well I'm calling myself the newcomer but it's really my grandson's recent birthday gift we got him. Simple Lidl Urban Rambler set. I think his mum will be resistant to a permanent set up at their place (flat) so it might be down to me to do something in the attic which is floored. I'm toying with the idea of a board hinged to the wall so I can fold it up out of the way. Don't know if that's a feasible concept.
Yes that can be done. But make sure everything is glued down or taken off prior to putting it away. The alternative is on a hinged pulley that you can raise.
Yes you would need to put posts behind baseboards against walls that would provide you with something to screw brackets for a 1ft shelf to be mounted on. Perhaps you could put in thin posts in the crevices and join them with the back scene boards, nothing would be protruding. Use wood glue on backscenes that are already done. Give great strength to whole thing. It's easier to do now that when back scenes are finalised. I saw a guy who did this and went to a third level near roof and then crossed room. It looked class and made the whole runaround last 10 mins or so for a single loop. It then turned on a wider section and came back on the other track. Once posts are in many extension possibilities available in the future. Perhaps put long post all way to ceiling to allow for any number or narrow levels to go round the room in future. It's now or never :)
I had a prefabricated garage once it was very very damp . I see your reasons for worrying about the warping . I've since moved house and have an integral garage and is much better . However I shall take your ideas on board cheers .
Good idea making holes for the wires through the cross members ....nice How To for Baseboards ..dave
Ah, That was the word I was looking When making the video. "Cross members". Forgot they were called that....
Really taking shape, at a later stage could you add a shelf like level above layout approx 2 ft above that could run round whole garage solely as a running track ( ie country scene ) would give huge amount of extra running in space that's not being used. I say this now as you may have to make provisions now before you go further. It would only have to be 1ft wide so wouldn't obstruct view of main layout below. There is so much can be done in small space to prolong the running sessions. Well done so far, videos very helpful.
Thanks, Good idea. I will have a think about that.
Hi I'm gonna be doing a video of fitting my baseboards not sure when as I rushed putting up my original baseboards up and totally messed them up. Some good ideas there have subbed to you.
This was great, I've been looking for "how to build a model railroad helix" for a while now, and I think this has helped. You ever tried - Piyaliyah Uncommunicative Preference - (Have a quick look on google cant remember the place now ) ? It is a good exclusive product for discovering how to build a model train railroad easily minus the normal expense. Ive heard some awesome things about it and my work buddy got cool success with it.
Were screws on "sale" at your local box store? Way too many screws, if you use a decent "white woodworking adhesive" such as Titebond II you will get a far better job and use probably 25% of the number screws you used. Today's modern adhesives are extremely reliable, the wood will break long before the glue joint.
Hi,
I used many screws due to the woods environment. Sometimes there is a bit of a temperature change this time of year. I used more screws this time to stop the baseboards warping. Hence the extra struts underneath on the frame. On the original phase 1 baseboards I did not use enough screws.
I have spent months researching how to build a railroad layout and discovered a great resource at Jareks hobby club (google it if you're interested)
This is just superb, I been tryin to find out about "custom model railroad layout builders" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Ever heard of - Piyaliyah Uncommunicative Preference - (should be on google have a look ) ? It is a good one off guide for discovering how to build a model train railroad easily minus the hard work. Ive heard some incredible things about it and my neighbour got great results with it.
Realise this is way after the making of the video. But thank you. I plan to use 9mm plywood for my base boards. What thickness did you use for the back screen? Also, what is the wood size for the legs? I was thinking of use 38x38mm, with adjustable feet on each to ensure they are all level. I will have 5 boards in total. The layout is in a centrally heated bedroom so no problem with extremes of heat of dampness. Thanks again.
The feet are 3.5cm in width. The back screen is also 3mm thick plywood. I used a soft wood on the first half and found it warped. So recommend plywood more rigid. Bought all of the wood from Wickes if it helps?
@@CHESEABUN nice
Way too many screws and not enough bracing.
great video
I have a shed that has an 12 inch bench around three sides. The area is about 10x10 ft and Im looking to build an 00 model railway using the space available. What would you say is the ideal number of tracks for this space. Is it big enough to run at least two tracks round and round?
You should be able to do double track in OO. Recommend 2nd radius set track for curves or at least one side of them. Hope this helps? Richard
@@CHESEABUN Thank you Richard. I started off with 24inch widths on three sides and a 36 inch at the top end but it seems rather a lot of space to fill. Im learning to keep it simple and spend more attention to scenery.
Really enjoy making scenic items. You will find it brings the layout to life...
did it last the test of time? trying to decide between this method and what everard juntion has done with ply frame
Hi,
Still as good as when I installed it. We even had a minor flash flood in the garage early this year and the legs survived that as well. The carpet took quite a while to dry out though. The boards all good.
@@CHESEABUN my layout was hit by a real life tornado
Hi just found your channel I have a dilemma Im hoping you can help I am building a layout in my loft I have found I have so much stock I need to build another level on the floor of the loft I am trying to work out how I can have boards with track fitted but be able to lift or pull out so I can work on the sections and more importantly wiring etc underneath the board, I will probably have to build a helix or 2 alternative 1 helix and a long incline then fix a board about 18" - 2ft on legs (cant remember what the height on the built part is exact) would you or anyone know how I can build two levels with a removable bottom level? I intend to use metal contacts under the rails at the end of each removable lower board.
Sorry for the late response, Had a few family issues to sort out. I personally don’t know anyone who has gone for the removable lower deck. A friend of mine has a fixed lower deck with a Helix. Some trains do struggle on the incline of the helix though. A long incline should work better? There are a few on RUclips with double and even triple decks. I would send them a message. Most modellers are more than willing to help. Sorry I couldn’t help more but I haven’t gone down this road. Cheers Richard.
@@CHESEABUN thats ok i am just concerned if i put a permanent lower deck after thinking ive completed it build the top deck with legs standing on the lower then find I need to add something else more wiring track etc and cant get underneath
@@markjackson8789 . I would always recommend leaving space for wiring underneath the boards. Ta Richard.
What thickness are the battens that you used?
HI, 2 centimetres.
Such a large garage....you should have isolated it very well and maybe even some kind of heating. Now it's damp and cold and in summer it will be very very hot and you are gonna build a layout there ? With all you expensive trains .... I wouldn't for sure ...
I have insulated it recently. So far so good. It’s been up now for about 12 years. At first I had condensation problems during Winter variable temperatures.. Then I insulated the roof. The walls I haven’t done. I have a portable heater that takes the edge off the cold.The only slight problem is creepy Crawley insects this time of year.
What is your max turn radius on these 600mm boards ?
2nd radius curves.
Brilliant stuff. Could you please provide the barcode at 4:21?
This is just superb, I been tryin to find out about "what is the best model train manufacturer?" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Have you heard people talk about - Piyaliyah Uncommunicative Preference - (Have a quick look on google cant remember the place now ) ? It is a great one of a kind product for discovering how to build a model train railroad easily without the hard work. Ive heard some decent things about it and my m8 got cool success with it.
This is no good it needs more screws.
😁
Winner of a video, been searching for "how to build a hornby train layout" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Ever heard of - Piyaliyah Uncommunicative Preference - (should be on google have a look ) ? It is a good one of a kind product for discovering how to build a model train railroad easily minus the headache. Ive heard some extraordinary things about it and my work buddy got excellent results with it.
Those baseboards don't look level to me.
Bluttie hell?