I highly don't recommend buying any D5 if nobody can help you to tune it. Both the D5 and D5mr have too many design flows, you will have to change many parts to make them work okay. During the past months, I bought another two D5s chassis, one of them being a D5s modified with Yeahracing aluminum parts with many diy parts to make it a MR layout chassis, there was nearly no original parts, but the basic design makes it still extremely hard for tuning the roll center, so even though the layout and weight distribution are similar to MC-1, and with the YR parts, the front damper system has much more tunability like Overdose, and I changed into straight drive system, if the roll center can not be tuned perfectly, the low weight chassis with a high gravity center, makes it very unstable in the center of a big curve, and it's extremely slow, even much slower than the original RR layout. My suggestion is just to buy a NGE or some old school chassis like RMX2.5 2.0s or any YD2 variants. Saving the $100-$200 can easily make you lose the hobby or lose $100 for the D5, because I got rid of it after a week. If you insist to use cheap electronics on drifting chassis, the hobby wing 1060 with a 12 to 13 t brushed motor with a lighter 3s battery should be fine if you can change the throttle curve to simulate the turbo effect on your transmitter, but I found I can only get a great result with Futaba T7px, T7pxr or my T10px, so it means using cheap brushed electronics on a drift car with a good handling to lower the cost is bullshit, because you would need a most expensive transmitter. As for the servo, 1206 g2 is always the best budget one, and you can program it with a program card, the same system as Sanwa. To my surprise, I tried it with one of my Futaba GYD-550, the smartest gyro so far, it can even support SR mode. Unity's UR-710 gyro is still my favorite, I even still using it on some of my super expensive chassis, it just works perfect, with a price can't be lower.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
I have a question what pinion gear do you use?
Do all of these fit on the sakura d5 mr the new version
I highly don't recommend buying any D5 if nobody can help you to tune it. Both the D5 and D5mr have too many design flows, you will have to change many parts to make them work okay. During the past months, I bought another two D5s chassis, one of them being a D5s modified with Yeahracing aluminum parts with many diy parts to make it a MR layout chassis, there was nearly no original parts, but the basic design makes it still extremely hard for tuning the roll center, so even though the layout and weight distribution are similar to MC-1, and with the YR parts, the front damper system has much more tunability like Overdose, and I changed into straight drive system, if the roll center can not be tuned perfectly, the low weight chassis with a high gravity center, makes it very unstable in the center of a big curve, and it's extremely slow, even much slower than the original RR layout. My suggestion is just to buy a NGE or some old school chassis like RMX2.5 2.0s or any YD2 variants. Saving the $100-$200 can easily make you lose the hobby or lose $100 for the D5, because I got rid of it after a week. If you insist to use cheap electronics on drifting chassis, the hobby wing 1060 with a 12 to 13 t brushed motor with a lighter 3s battery should be fine if you can change the throttle curve to simulate the turbo effect on your transmitter, but I found I can only get a great result with Futaba T7px, T7pxr or my T10px, so it means using cheap brushed electronics on a drift car with a good handling to lower the cost is bullshit, because you would need a most expensive transmitter. As for the servo, 1206 g2 is always the best budget one, and you can program it with a program card, the same system as Sanwa. To my surprise, I tried it with one of my Futaba GYD-550, the smartest gyro so far, it can even support SR mode. Unity's UR-710 gyro is still my favorite, I even still using it on some of my super expensive chassis, it just works perfect, with a price can't be lower.
it seems like your steering system is blunt, maybe your GYO value is too high? or servo is stubborn somehow
Do you know were we can find the steering