Good screw placement but but should have screwed them in at a positive angle at around +10 degrees from horizontal. Not sure about the girth hitch either, otherwise good.
Nice video, gotta mention that equalizing an ice anchor is controversial since both screws might be weakened over time because of pressure melting. Usually you only want to load one screw and have the second as backup. Not critical in your case ofc since you can stand and don't have to sit in your harness for a long time. Btw, the girth hitched carabiner has been a very common anchor setup for rock climbing in the south part of the Alps :)
Pressure melting only really occurs at pressures over 10 bar. You will not get this on the threads of an icescrew. Also an equalised anchor would in this case lower the pressure on each ice screw, making it less prone to melting out.
I usually just use non-lockers, unless I'm worried about the gate being opened. When I'm setting an anchor for top rope guiding where I have to use ice screws, the big example is when I'm working on seracs (in Washington the only ice climbing is seracing haha.) I'll use three ice screws in my anchor to have more le-way with melting out while everyone gets a top rope lap. I haven't tried this out yet but I was thinking the other day that I will start to add in a V-thread into my anchors when it's top rope seracing because it takes longer to melt out and it's overall stronger than a single ice screw on it's own. I also get the added benefit of having it already drilled for rappelling off at the end.
@@ryantilley9063 Just to add on to this, I would say it depends on what knot you're using. A locker would be needed if using a figure 8, for example, as it is loose on the biner and could unclip itself. Personally with two screws I use one locker (with figure 8) and one snapgate with a clove hitch for adjustability.
Hi Ryan, great video as always. Not sure if this would be video material, but can you recommend or tell us what is your headlamp of choice for mountaineering and alpine endeavours?
Another great video. Noob question: do you have dedicated carabiners for putting into hard goods (bolts, screws) and some for soft good (slings, rope) to avoid having small knicks in the carabiner damaging soft goods? Thanks
I sort of do have the dedicated carabiners for my quickdraws, one for the bolt and the other for the rope. As for carabiners that I use for my anchors I usually do one carabiner and one QuickDraw for my sport anchors. When it comes to my lockers I’ll use them on hard goods and soft goods, I just inspect them regularly to see if they get any burrs on the metal that could possibly damage my soft goods. Usually when you apply body weight to your metal gear it won’t burr up as much as a leader fall would. Hope that helps!
@@David-cp6rl yeah he said that at 5:10, but I'd like to get a link to the testing he mentioned Edit to add: not exactly scientific, but still a test ruclips.net/video/-MmX8h4F0po/видео.html
Short answer: No, not really; but the more you learn about climbing, the more you understand how bomber this shit really is, and the more you forgo doing the more complicated shit and replace it with doing the super quick easy shit..... and in this case the quicker easier shit would be just to do a sliding X (or magic X) and then you get your redundancy, no knot to untie either. and if you watch "hownottohighline" as TAVarner17 linked to his channel below. In one of his vids (not that one linked below) Ryan jinks mythbusts forces generated on extensions as if a bolt blew with & without knots on a sliding x and there was no difference.
Some of the testing for this anchor could still be in the works as far as publishing goes, I got the redudenacy confirmation from the AMGA technical director Dale Remsburg. He said that the anchor was perfectly safe to use, and you know he does his research!
When you build your anchor you need to plant you axes and clip off to them. This seems to really show a poor understanding of ice climbing or alpinism.
wow, i would have loved to see the endscene a little longer :)
Good screw placement but but should have screwed them in at a positive angle at around +10 degrees from horizontal. Not sure about the girth hitch either, otherwise good.
Nice video, gotta mention that equalizing an ice anchor is controversial since both screws might be weakened over time because of pressure melting. Usually you only want to load one screw and have the second as backup. Not critical in your case ofc since you can stand and don't have to sit in your harness for a long time.
Btw, the girth hitched carabiner has been a very common anchor setup for rock climbing in the south part of the Alps :)
Pressure melting only really occurs at pressures over 10 bar. You will not get this on the threads of an icescrew. Also an equalised anchor would in this case lower the pressure on each ice screw, making it less prone to melting out.
How far apart in average the 2 screws should be ??
is it common to have lockers on the screws instead of non-lockers for anchors? do you use v threads for anchors ever, aside from just on rappels?
I usually just use non-lockers, unless I'm worried about the gate being opened. When I'm setting an anchor for top rope guiding where I have to use ice screws, the big example is when I'm working on seracs (in Washington the only ice climbing is seracing haha.) I'll use three ice screws in my anchor to have more le-way with melting out while everyone gets a top rope lap. I haven't tried this out yet but I was thinking the other day that I will start to add in a V-thread into my anchors when it's top rope seracing because it takes longer to melt out and it's overall stronger than a single ice screw on it's own. I also get the added benefit of having it already drilled for rappelling off at the end.
@@ryantilley9063 Just to add on to this, I would say it depends on what knot you're using. A locker would be needed if using a figure 8, for example, as it is loose on the biner and could unclip itself. Personally with two screws I use one locker (with figure 8) and one snapgate with a clove hitch for adjustability.
Hi Ryan, great video as always. Not sure if this would be video material, but can you recommend or tell us what is your headlamp of choice for mountaineering and alpine endeavours?
Ya for sure man, it may be kind of a quick video but I’ll make one about that topic
Another great video. Noob question: do you have dedicated carabiners for putting into hard goods (bolts, screws) and some for soft good (slings, rope) to avoid having small knicks in the carabiner damaging soft goods? Thanks
I sort of do have the dedicated carabiners for my quickdraws, one for the bolt and the other for the rope. As for carabiners that I use for my anchors I usually do one carabiner and one QuickDraw for my sport anchors. When it comes to my lockers I’ll use them on hard goods and soft goods, I just inspect them regularly to see if they get any burrs on the metal that could possibly damage my soft goods. Usually when you apply body weight to your metal gear it won’t burr up as much as a leader fall would. Hope that helps!
@@ryantilley9063 thank you so much for your reply!
Thoughts on using the shelf with a girth hitched masterpoint?k x
obvs awkward with 3+ pieces
Is the girth hitch anchor still redundant?
He said it was fully redundant. If you cut one end, the other is still good.
@@David-cp6rl yeah he said that at 5:10, but I'd like to get a link to the testing he mentioned
Edit to add: not exactly scientific, but still a test ruclips.net/video/-MmX8h4F0po/видео.html
@@TAVarner17 Good to see others posting Ryan Jinks stuff, he needs more subs
Short answer: No, not really; but the more you learn about climbing, the more you understand how bomber this shit really is, and the more you forgo doing the more complicated shit and replace it with doing the super quick easy shit..... and in this case the quicker easier shit would be just to do a sliding X (or magic X) and then you get your redundancy, no knot to untie either.
and if you watch "hownottohighline" as TAVarner17 linked to his channel below. In one of his vids (not that one linked below) Ryan jinks mythbusts forces generated on extensions as if a bolt blew with & without knots on a sliding x and there was no difference.
Some of the testing for this anchor could still be in the works as far as publishing goes, I got the redudenacy confirmation from the AMGA technical director Dale Remsburg. He said that the anchor was perfectly safe to use, and you know he does his research!
When you build your anchor you need to plant you axes and clip off to them. This seems to really show a poor understanding of ice climbing or alpinism.
My guess is you don’t do shit. Good job being critical though!