Reviewed this video for the 3rd time after a half day with the R3. Moving from a 1dx and 5 mk3 this is culture shock. Shot a couple of eagles on the river yesterday. I proved that you can take a bad picture with the R3 but when you do your part the autofocus in this setup is beyond what I could have imagined.
Yep, I have proven over and over again that you can take poor images with any camera system. Glad you were able to start to adapt to the new AF system and how they now work. It really is a paradigm shift from the "old" DSLR days. Cheers, Ron
@@whistlingwingsphotography Or the Canon F-1 if you really want to feel overcome by technology. This is a great video. Thank you for taking the time t make it.
Absolutely awesome….got my R3 been in the field already and love it…..this will really help me alot to go through more of the newer things from the R5. Can wait to give some if this a try. I to photograph birds and birds in flight. Thank you so much!!
I drank too many beers whilst watching this and fumbling with my r3 but i think you are all over the auto focus settings. I’ll definitely rewatch this in the morning with a clear head.
Your setup on the R3 Ron I watched the entire lession and I had my R3 in front of me you did pretty good on about 70% of it , towards the end when you were doing your custom buttons menu , you got to way too confusing at the end .
Great video thank you so much. I did get a bit lost with the auto focus customisation when it came to using the rate button to toggle through the zones. I will have to go back and review it.
Ron, A great video thank you for taking the time to put it together this as helped me out so much. I have had the R3 for a few weeks now coming from a 90D so quite a jump for me. Very much appreciated!!
Thanks for sharing your configuration as it was very helpful, especially the auto focus point selection remap you did. Also I did a fairly detailed comparison with the R5 and R3 image quality and compared images from 400 ISO to 12800 ISO. In many cases the R3 images were similar or better which blew my mind as "everyone" says the 45 MP sensor is way better. When you take into account noise and nailing focus, the R3 seemed to come out better overall. Looking forward to more of your assessment as you do more shooting too. 🙂
Thank you Ron, very excellent review. Have not got r3 or any professional camera in my life till now, only Use my cellphone and gopro for videos, love shooting, dreaming to get r3. Thank you again for ur time, keep the good job.
Go out and get a canon 7D mark II and a canon EF 400mm f 5.6 L prime lens. Both used. Used is the way to go and that combo will put a big smile on your face. I guarantee it. Think of it this way, if you can spend $100 on dinner at a restaurant, say, you can try to get a camera and lens combo for about $1200 total if you save for it. It’s a great investment in creativity and mental health. That combo will not disappoint. For beginners or advanced shooters alike. Good luck.
Your videos are great (even though I am not up to your budget) I did my best estimate of what I expect would be a WWP EOS budget version ?? An R6, the 1-500 and for that extra reach when needed the RF 800 (which has surprised me with much better images than I was expecting even when using the crop mode and gigapixel ) .. A direct result of following your videos .. Thanks for all you do VERY helpful !!! We recently had the Stella Sea Eagle show up 30 min from my home. I was three for 3 days 1st day saw it but no light a too far of for my gear and skill. Jumping between 3 locations I just missed twice. But met a lot of interesting folks who came from all over and some did manage to get some decent shots.
Great to see someone actually sharing some AF customise settings for the R3. I'm a sports photographer primarily, but shoot some wildlife as well when I get the chance. I have had the R3 for a couple of weeks now and been trying to get the correct set-up to allow pin-point accuracy with acquisition and tracking of individual players. I used it at a soccer match for the first time and I found that, with having subject tracking and eye tracking turned on in the menu, when I tried to pick up a player in a crowded goalmouth, pressed the AF-ON button and then the shutter button, the AF point jumped to the nearest player in the scene who happened to be facing me, not the intended target. I had single point AF activated. Even with tracking sensitivity turned down the tracking spot jumped from player to player during a goal celebration photo. I ended up reverting to the standard sports set up of single point AF and turned off both the subject tracking and eye tracking. I'm keen to give the tracking another go as I'm sure it will work and its probably something else I'm missing in the set-up or operation process. I've set up the * button as you have described in the video and if the opportunity arises to test it during a game, I'll give it a go and see how it performs. Any other suggestions as to how to improve the AF set-up would be appreciated.
For your Soccer match type situation I would go with "Spot" AF with Subject Tracking "On" but keep Eye Tracking turned off. Keep the tracking sensitivity all the way to the negative side and the acc/decel all the way to the positive side. Also make sure the "Switching Tracked Subjects" is set to "0" in AF1 menu. I would set up your AF-ON button to "Register/recall Shooting Func" and set the specific parameters in the "Detail Set." sub-menu to have everything unchecked (i.e., turned off) except AF Area (set to Spot AF), Subject Tracking (set to ON), Subject to Detect (set to People), Tracking Sensitivity (set to -2), Accel/decel Tracking (set to +2), AF Start Position (set to Manually Select), and AF Operation (set to ON). Those should be checked and set as aforementioned. When setting this up do not hit the "Register Current Settings" button. For me this set up acts like a gun sight you put the Spot AF on whichever player you want to focus on and track and then hit and hold the AF-ON button. The AF system should pick and then track that player until you let off of the AF-ON button. You can switch from player to player and be accurate getting focus on just the player you want. It works well for me.
@@whistlingwingsphotography - many thanks Ron, that's terrific. Really Appreciate your help and input on this. I have a match to cover on Monday so I'll certainly give this a try and see how it goes. Happy Christmas to you.
Ron, tried that new setting yesterday at the football (soccer). Whilst it held ok during the warm up when I was tracking an individual player, when I tried it during the actual game, I found it still jumped off to surrounding players for no apparent reason, even if the subject was running face on towards me. I'm beginning to think it best to park the R3 for soccer and use it for individual sports such as athletics, cricket or motorsports where there is generally only one subject to focus on and you have more time to select and lock the tracking on.
Interesting. Thanks for the feedback. I will let Canon know about this type of shooting and see what they say the settings should be. Sorry it did not work out this time around. We may get it figured out. The R3 is supposed to be for action sports, so if this cannot be figured out that is obviously not a good thing.
@@whistlingwingsphotography thanks Ron, that would be great. I'm not sure whether just using the customised button is actually enough to lock the AF subject tracking on or whether I need to press the multi-function button beside the shutter button as well to activate the white tracking square at the same time. It could well be something I'm missing in my understanding of the function and set-up. I had turned off the subject tracking in the main menu as it was overriding both the AF-ON and customised button setting. Turning it off allowed me to use the AF-ON as a back up safety set-up allowing me full control of the AF point for both accurate acquisition of the subject and tracking with the active point. With the * button set-up with your settings the subject tracking was active once I hit the * button but unfortunately didn't hold the subject as well as expected.
2 Questions: 1. What are the typical scenarios where you would use the eye control focus over the other options? 2. Same question but for the register/recall shooting. Is this typically only for when there are multiple animals in the frame and you want it to just focus on the one animal you have it aimed at in that moment?
Using eye control focus on the r3. 1 "A typical example is where you have several subjects in the frame and want to follow one of them." Then... "All you have to do is look at the one you want, and the camera will focus on that subject and track it, even if other subjects appear from the side or obstacles come between the subject and the camera. This works regardless of your subject type. Whether it be humans,vehicles or animals. 2 Register Recall Function is like having two cameras at your fingertips with the touch of a button. You can control many aspects of your shooting here. Shooting mode,white balance, focus points or focus priorities, the options are many. I shoot Manual Mode 99% of the time. And have my register recall setting in Shutter Priority with Auto i.s.o. focus set for action shooting. So when my subject moves into shade or a different light scenario I can at the touch of the switch be ready for this scenario.
Thanks for more great info, if I may ask, I find with image review off an image always appears in viewfinder or if you do a menu change the menu appears in V/F ? Also would you advise any particular cf/express card that copes well with high frame rate, also do you have a method to judge subject /bird distance ? perhaps needing to be a bit closer with the smaller sensor.
Under image review I disable VF review so no image appears in the VF. I like Angelbird cards. They have worked well for me on both my R5 and R3. I don't have any formal method to judge bird distance. I just work to get the bird(s) at the distance I want them for a particular image. Sometimes it works out sometimes it does not. Thanks for the comment.
What stabilise mode do you have on your lens please? Am shooting with a 500mm EF lens with an adaptor and using stabilise On mode 2 but shots Not totally sharp I’m unsure if I should just rely on camera stabilise Or if I need to get my lens checked.
I use Mode 1 for static subjects and Mode 2 for flight shots if I use IS. Many times I just turn stabilization off. I shoot a 600f/4 Mk. II and I have found the mode 2 to work very well for flight shots that are not erratic type flights (more smooth panning).
Ron, hi. Enjoyed the video and as I have only had my R3 for a few days it gave me a great starting point for my main subject, birds. However, similar to David Mag I followed your set up to the letter but I find that when trying to pick out a particular bird in a Bush or tree, and sometimes ground level in a pool surrounded by reeds the focus point is jumping all over. Plus, if I use the 'tracking' facility via the M-fn button as you suggest then hit the eye recognition button on the multi controller the tracking stops. I tried the tracking without using eye focus but all the images were out of focus. Advice would be appreciated please? Thanks, Al here in the U.K.
Alan, for picking a particular bird in a tree or bush I suggest using SPOT AF. I have that assigned to my "AF Point Selection" button, so it is available in a split second whenever I need it. Once I have focus on the bird in the tree or bush (or other scenario with competing elements in it that will attract the AF's interest) via SPOT AF, I then go to eye detect with tracking if the bird's eye is available for the AF to see. I have eye detect with tracking on my "AF-ON" button, so all I do is move my thumb to that button and I have eye detection with tracking. If the eye is not obvious I go to a "Zone" AF and I have various sized zones set up in my 3 AF Zone methods, I use the zone or set up a zone that is only a bit larger than the bird I am working with. This keeps the AF from being able to look at too much other competing elements that might be in the frame. I have Zone AF available on my "*" button. For AF settings in general I am now using the "AUTO" setting instead of any of the AF Cases. I used to use Case 2 modified as in the video, but I have found that AUTO does a great job adjusting the action that is happening. Generally I don't like AUTO type settings but this one is working well for me at this time. Overall, the one bit of advice I am giving to people is that with all the potential combinations of AF methods and AF settings now available, sticking with just one set up for all scenarios just does not work well. You need to analyze the shooting scenario and make the correct choices for your AF setup or you may have some trouble. I am changing my AF settings all the time. That is why I try to have as many of the options set up on various buttons so I can change the combinations of settings quickly as dictated by the current shooting scenario. I hope this helps. Ron
@@whistlingwingsphotography Hi Ron. Thanks for the rapid reply! Ok, I will give that a go, I have set up the back buttons similar to my R5 plus assigned your suggestions to others so it remains a bit more familiar for my memory/finger movements. Will let you know how it goes. Cheers for now. Al.
Awe geez... I just got my R5 last week, and I already have to sell it to get the R3 ? Not really :) lol But its still fun to follow the latest tech. I'm not really a GAS kind of guy. Probably be another 5 or 6 years for my next camera... Great video though. TY :)
Thank you very much for your excellent video, they were very useful, but I have a problem, I configured in the AF Tab for the subject to detect an animal and it appears in my viewfinder. The problem is that it not appear in my registrer/recall fonction menu...it's a person who appear instead of the cat....yet everything is configured for animal....Do you know why ?...have you ever encountered this problem...sorry for my english...I speake french so....thanks a lot Ron
For me it is because there is a potential downside, you can have issues with shadow and dark areas when HTP is active and because I shoot a lot of birds with dark and light coloration I keep HTP off. Moreover, with the dynamic range the camera sensor provides I really do not have any problems exposing my images the way I want and having plenty of latitude to play with the highlights in post production. Lastly, overall, I like to keep things turned off on cameras no a days if they are not really needed, because anything you have turned on does take up processing power and there is a limited amount of that power. I want my camera to be able use maximum power on AF, FPS, etc.; the important stuff. Hope this helps you understand my philosophy a bit better.
Reviewed this video for the 3rd time after a half day with the R3. Moving from a 1dx and 5 mk3 this is culture shock. Shot a couple of eagles on the river yesterday. I proved that you can take a bad picture with the R3 but when you do your part the autofocus in this setup is beyond what I could have imagined.
Yep, I have proven over and over again that you can take poor images with any camera system. Glad you were able to start to adapt to the new AF system and how they now work. It really is a paradigm shift from the "old" DSLR days. Cheers, Ron
@@whistlingwingsphotography Or the Canon F-1 if you really want to feel overcome by technology. This is a great video. Thank you for taking the time t make it.
Absolutely awesome….got my R3 been in the field already and love it…..this will really help me alot to go through more of the newer things from the R5. Can wait to give some if this a try. I to photograph birds and birds in flight. Thank you so much!!
Glad you found the video helpful.
I drank too many beers whilst watching this and fumbling with my r3 but i think you are all over the auto focus settings. I’ll definitely rewatch this in the morning with a clear head.
Ha! Thanks for the laugh.
Great walk thru the R3 set-up. Works perfect for me. Thanks a lot Ron
Great to hear!
Your setup on the R3 Ron I watched the entire lession and I had my R3 in front of me you did pretty good on about 70% of it , towards the end when you were doing your custom buttons menu , you got to way too confusing at the end .
Thanks again Ron for all the time and effort you put into your videos... Martin UK
Many thanks!
Great video thank you so much. I did get a bit lost with the auto focus customisation when it came to using the rate button to toggle through the zones. I will have to go back and review it.
Thanks so much for watching.
Ron, A great video thank you for taking the time to put it together this as helped me out so much. I have had the R3 for a few weeks now coming from a 90D so quite a jump for me. Very much appreciated!!
Thanks for sharing your configuration as it was very helpful, especially the auto focus point selection remap you did. Also I did a fairly detailed comparison with the R5 and R3 image quality and compared images from 400 ISO to 12800 ISO. In many cases the R3 images were similar or better which blew my mind as "everyone" says the 45 MP sensor is way better. When you take into account noise and nailing focus, the R3 seemed to come out better overall. Looking forward to more of your assessment as you do more shooting too. 🙂
Thank you Ron, very excellent review. Have not got r3 or any professional camera in my life till now, only Use my cellphone and gopro for videos, love shooting, dreaming to get r3. Thank you again for ur time, keep the good job.
Go out and get a canon 7D mark II and a canon EF 400mm f 5.6 L prime lens. Both used. Used is the way to go and that combo will put a big smile on your face. I guarantee it. Think of it this way, if you can spend $100 on dinner at a restaurant, say, you can try to get a camera and lens combo for about $1200 total if you save for it. It’s a great investment in creativity and mental health. That combo will not disappoint. For beginners or advanced shooters alike. Good luck.
That's one awesome Video, Ron! Thank you!
Your videos are great (even though I am not up to your budget) I did my best estimate of what I expect would be a WWP EOS budget version ?? An R6, the 1-500 and for that extra reach when needed the RF 800 (which has surprised me with much better images than I was expecting even when using the crop mode and gigapixel ) .. A direct result of following your videos .. Thanks for all you do VERY helpful !!! We recently had the Stella Sea Eagle show up 30 min from my home. I was three for 3 days 1st day saw it but no light a too far of for my gear and skill. Jumping between 3 locations I just missed twice. But met a lot of interesting folks who came from all over and some did manage to get some decent shots.
Thanks so much. I am glad you have found a set up that works for you. Cheers.
Thanks for this! Looking forward to applying there settings when my R3 is finally delivered.
Have fun!
Great to see someone actually sharing some AF customise settings for the R3. I'm a sports photographer primarily, but shoot some wildlife as well when I get the chance. I have had the R3 for a couple of weeks now and been trying to get the correct set-up to allow pin-point accuracy with acquisition and tracking of individual players. I used it at a soccer match for the first time and I found that, with having subject tracking and eye tracking turned on in the menu, when I tried to pick up a player in a crowded goalmouth, pressed the AF-ON button and then the shutter button, the AF point jumped to the nearest player in the scene who happened to be facing me, not the intended target. I had single point AF activated. Even with tracking sensitivity turned down the tracking spot jumped from player to player during a goal celebration photo. I ended up reverting to the standard sports set up of single point AF and turned off both the subject tracking and eye tracking. I'm keen to give the tracking another go as I'm sure it will work and its probably something else I'm missing in the set-up or operation process. I've set up the * button as you have described in the video and if the opportunity arises to test it during a game, I'll give it a go and see how it performs. Any other suggestions as to how to improve the AF set-up would be appreciated.
For your Soccer match type situation I would go with "Spot" AF with Subject Tracking "On" but keep Eye Tracking turned off. Keep the tracking sensitivity all the way to the negative side and the acc/decel all the way to the positive side. Also make sure the "Switching Tracked Subjects" is set to "0" in AF1 menu. I would set up your AF-ON button to "Register/recall Shooting Func" and set the specific parameters in the "Detail Set." sub-menu to have everything unchecked (i.e., turned off) except AF Area (set to Spot AF), Subject Tracking (set to ON), Subject to Detect (set to People), Tracking Sensitivity (set to -2), Accel/decel Tracking (set to +2), AF Start Position (set to Manually Select), and AF Operation (set to ON). Those should be checked and set as aforementioned. When setting this up do not hit the "Register Current Settings" button. For me this set up acts like a gun sight you put the Spot AF on whichever player you want to focus on and track and then hit and hold the AF-ON button. The AF system should pick and then track that player until you let off of the AF-ON button. You can switch from player to player and be accurate getting focus on just the player you want. It works well for me.
@@whistlingwingsphotography - many thanks Ron, that's terrific. Really Appreciate your help and input on this. I have a match to cover on Monday so I'll certainly give this a try and see how it goes. Happy Christmas to you.
Ron, tried that new setting yesterday at the football (soccer). Whilst it held ok during the warm up when I was tracking an individual player, when I tried it during the actual game, I found it still jumped off to surrounding players for no apparent reason, even if the subject was running face on towards me. I'm beginning to think it best to park the R3 for soccer and use it for individual sports such as athletics, cricket or motorsports where there is generally only one subject to focus on and you have more time to select and lock the tracking on.
Interesting. Thanks for the feedback. I will let Canon know about this type of shooting and see what they say the settings should be. Sorry it did not work out this time around. We may get it figured out. The R3 is supposed to be for action sports, so if this cannot be figured out that is obviously not a good thing.
@@whistlingwingsphotography thanks Ron, that would be great. I'm not sure whether just using the customised button is actually enough to lock the AF subject tracking on or whether I need to press the multi-function button beside the shutter button as well to activate the white tracking square at the same time. It could well be something I'm missing in my understanding of the function and set-up.
I had turned off the subject tracking in the main menu as it was overriding both the AF-ON and customised button setting. Turning it off allowed me to use the AF-ON as a back up safety set-up allowing me full control of the AF point for both accurate acquisition of the subject and tracking with the active point. With the * button set-up with your settings the subject tracking was active once I hit the * button but unfortunately didn't hold the subject as well as expected.
Thank you so much for this really informative video. Just got my R3 and its my first Mirrorless as up to now been using 1DX 11 !
My pleasure!
2 Questions:
1. What are the typical scenarios where you would use the eye control focus over the other options?
2. Same question but for the register/recall shooting. Is this typically only for when there are multiple animals in the frame and you want it to just focus on the one animal you have it aimed at in that moment?
Using eye control focus on the r3.
1
"A typical example is where you have several subjects in the frame and want to follow one of them."
Then... "All you have to do is look at the one you want, and the camera will focus on that subject and track it, even if other subjects appear from the side or obstacles come between the subject and the camera.
This works regardless of your subject type. Whether it be humans,vehicles or animals.
2
Register Recall Function is like having two cameras at your fingertips with the touch of a button.
You can control many aspects of your shooting here.
Shooting mode,white balance, focus points or focus priorities, the options are many.
I shoot Manual Mode 99% of the time. And have my register recall setting in Shutter Priority with Auto i.s.o. focus set for action shooting.
So when my subject moves into shade or a different light scenario I can at the touch of the switch be ready for this scenario.
@@forsterl.stewart414 great explanation. Thank you so much
Hopefully someday I will have a R3:)
Nice video. I can’t justify the r3 for where i live, so i had to pass on it. I still plan to test it out one day, though. HNY!
Happy New Year! I hope you make many great images in the new year.
Very helpful! Thanks for doing this.
My pleasure. Glad you found it helpful. Ron
Thanks for more great info, if I may ask, I find with image review off an image always appears in viewfinder or if you do a menu change the menu appears in V/F ? Also would you advise any particular cf/express card that copes well with high frame rate, also do you have a method to judge subject /bird distance ? perhaps needing to be a bit closer with the smaller sensor.
Under image review I disable VF review so no image appears in the VF. I like Angelbird cards. They have worked well for me on both my R5 and R3. I don't have any formal method to judge bird distance. I just work to get the bird(s) at the distance I want them for a particular image. Sometimes it works out sometimes it does not. Thanks for the comment.
Very helpful thank you very much and bless you.
What stabilise mode do you have on your lens please? Am shooting with a 500mm EF lens with an adaptor and using stabilise On mode 2 but shots
Not totally sharp I’m unsure if I should just rely on camera stabilise
Or if I need to get my lens checked.
I use Mode 1 for static subjects and Mode 2 for flight shots if I use IS. Many times I just turn stabilization off. I shoot a 600f/4 Mk. II and I have found the mode 2 to work very well for flight shots that are not erratic type flights (more smooth panning).
Thank you I appreciate your response and I love this channel
Ron, hi. Enjoyed the video and as I have only had my R3 for a few days it gave me a great starting point for my main subject, birds. However, similar to David Mag I followed your set up to the letter but I find that when trying to pick out a particular bird in a Bush or tree, and sometimes ground level in a pool surrounded by reeds the focus point is jumping all over. Plus, if I use the 'tracking' facility via the M-fn button as you suggest then hit the eye recognition button on the multi controller the tracking stops. I tried the tracking without using eye focus but all the images were out of focus. Advice would be appreciated please? Thanks, Al here in the U.K.
Alan, for picking a particular bird in a tree or bush I suggest using SPOT AF. I have that assigned to my "AF Point Selection" button, so it is available in a split second whenever I need it. Once I have focus on the bird in the tree or bush (or other scenario with competing elements in it that will attract the AF's interest) via SPOT AF, I then go to eye detect with tracking if the bird's eye is available for the AF to see. I have eye detect with tracking on my "AF-ON" button, so all I do is move my thumb to that button and I have eye detection with tracking. If the eye is not obvious I go to a "Zone" AF and I have various sized zones set up in my 3 AF Zone methods, I use the zone or set up a zone that is only a bit larger than the bird I am working with. This keeps the AF from being able to look at too much other competing elements that might be in the frame. I have Zone AF available on my "*" button.
For AF settings in general I am now using the "AUTO" setting instead of any of the AF Cases. I used to use Case 2 modified as in the video, but I have found that AUTO does a great job adjusting the action that is happening. Generally I don't like AUTO type settings but this one is working well for me at this time. Overall, the one bit of advice I am giving to people is that with all the potential combinations of AF methods and AF settings now available, sticking with just one set up for all scenarios just does not work well. You need to analyze the shooting scenario and make the correct choices for your AF setup or you may have some trouble. I am changing my AF settings all the time. That is why I try to have as many of the options set up on various buttons so I can change the combinations of settings quickly as dictated by the current shooting scenario. I hope this helps. Ron
@@whistlingwingsphotography Hi Ron. Thanks for the rapid reply! Ok, I will give that a go, I have set up the back buttons similar to my R5 plus assigned your suggestions to others so it remains a bit more familiar for my memory/finger movements. Will let you know how it goes. Cheers for now. Al.
Awe geez... I just got my R5 last week, and I already have to sell it to get the R3 ? Not really :) lol But its still fun to follow the latest tech. I'm not really a GAS kind of guy. Probably be another 5 or 6 years for my next camera... Great video though. TY :)
I get it. The R5 is a great camera and the R3 really is a niche body in my opinion. Can't go wrong shooting the R5.
Thank you very much for your excellent video, they were very useful, but I have a problem, I configured in the AF Tab for the subject to detect an animal and it appears in my viewfinder. The problem is that it not appear in my registrer/recall fonction menu...it's a person who appear instead of the cat....yet everything is configured for animal....Do you know why ?...have you ever encountered this problem...sorry for my english...I speake french so....thanks a lot Ron
Ron, why not turn on Highlight Tone Priority? Would it not help save highlights? Is there a downside? Thanks!
For me it is because there is a potential downside, you can have issues with shadow and dark areas when HTP is active and because I shoot a lot of birds with dark and light coloration I keep HTP off. Moreover, with the dynamic range the camera sensor provides I really do not have any problems exposing my images the way I want and having plenty of latitude to play with the highlights in post production. Lastly, overall, I like to keep things turned off on cameras no a days if they are not really needed, because anything you have turned on does take up processing power and there is a limited amount of that power. I want my camera to be able use maximum power on AF, FPS, etc.; the important stuff. Hope this helps you understand my philosophy a bit better.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Makes sense. Thanks for all the info!
Excellent video and informative
Thanks....
You're welcome!
I got lost at the flexible zone adjustments
thanks!!
You're welcome!
Af beam on outside for wildlife lol cmon bro that’s just stupid.