V8 S10 Rebuilt Engine Install and Hookup (Ep.8 Part 2 of 3)
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- Опубликовано: 3 дек 2024
- Break out the engine crane, it's time to drop in this shiny “new” engine! We will get the engine bolted in and hooked up to everything, fill the fluids, and get everything completely ready to fire up! So close, it's nerve-racking!
In the final part of this episode, we will start it and break in the cam!
Timeline of filming: November 30th, 2017 - December 2nd, 2017
Song List (Order of First Appearance):
0:01 Behold the Sun - Topher Mohr and Alex Elena
4:54 DC Love Go-Go - Silent Partner
9:04 Gotta Find Out - Silent Partner
13:08 Big Sky - Silent Partner
18:53 Going Up - Silent Partner
(All music provided by RUclips's Audio Library royalty free.)
Thanks for watching, and joining us on this adventure! Please let us know what you think! Consider supporting us via Patreon as well! / fuzzydiceprojects 
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Great work man! Your "get it done with what you got" attitude is a rare thing these days - nice to see a true home mechanic at work! I can't wait to her fire up!
Oh my God, THE TRUCK!!! After coming here for the $200 Blazer and after watching all of these videos of engine and trans work I almost forgot about the Blazer lmao
This makes me appreciate a pair of grease stained hands. I enjoyed every minute. I lived in Georgia in the 60,s, had a 64 hotrod Falcon, white, took it to Cumberland Md to have 65 Chrysler green with 2 quarts of silver metallic paint applied, up to Frostburg to have hand painted gold pinstripes, I fell in love with rural Maryland.
I love how you break them up and upload them tightly together. Makes me excited to see updates from your channel.
I freaking love this channel. Your chill attitude, the background music, and the level of detail just makes it the perfect viewing experience!
Good series. I just sold my 86 s10 blazer. Watching this is making me regret it. Keep up the good work!!
This series is High quality low budget. I love watching stuff like this because it’s stuff anyone can do in there own garage with a little over time
Pay
Oh what a tease I was hoping you'd start it this video! Enjoying this series. My first vehicle was my dad's 1980 C10 with a 305. Learned a lot about engines working on that truck in high school.
P
Really educational for someone just getting started in mechanics. Thank you for the content
itsbc753 true, but someone with 30+ experience, I’m screaming at the video, “damnit son get an impact and tighten those bolts.” The only thing I use a torque wrench for is heads bolts, rods and mains.
Most favorite phrase used in this series. "But this will work JUST fine". 😂👌
Finally a video using the star pattern on the flex plate, not many “RUclips Mechanics” use this method. Thank you for using proper techniques in this video.
Really fantastic job, man. Very well produced and entertaining. Thank you.
Love your production values! Small channels with high quality content, like yours, is RUclips at its best. Keep it up!
God I hope the third comes in any minute!! These videos have me hooked lol
My fat Adventure I had planned to have the third up today, but I had some last minute things come up so I haven't finished it yet. I really hope to have it up tomorrow, with a special bonus video!
I'll take it!!!
@@FuzzyDiceProjects me too
I like your mount spreader technique! Looking forward to the next video.
I cant believe you did this shit by yourself! GREAT JOB!
Two years later and this is the best swap still
While I may not do this anytime soon, watching you gives me an idea of how big of a task this will be. I very much enjoy it. Thank you for sharing your knowledge 😊
Come on part 3 the night is still young!
It's looking really good, FDP. I'm still really enjoying this presentation and editing format too.
GM's recommended procedure for the t.v cable adjustment is to depress the clip and pull the cable rearward all the way, then attach to carburetor throttle shaft. Open throttle by hand to wide open, letting t.v cable click forward. Once you're at full throttle, TV cable is properly adjusted
Yep, nailed it! I mention it in the next video, but only briefly. Kind of feel like I should have covered it better considering how important it is.
I really enjoy watching your videos. It shows how overwhelming it can be to take apart an engine completely. I've seen engine replacement, but a overhaul like you did would be a bit too much for me lol. Too many different bits and bolts.
If you take it slow, it's not bad at all with a simple engine like this one! Modern stuff and European engines can get pretty intimidating with the number of parts and procedures required, but if you ever want to get comfortable with engine work, I'd recommend starting with an old pushrod V8 like these!
I have always worked on my own stuff, done plenty of engine swaps, and I have to say... you're a God DAMNED GENIUS! Mounts that flex in and/or out are always a problem. Moving them back together is no problem, moving them apart has had me beat for hours, days, and sometimes weeks if I need a buddy. Always just used prybars. Thanks man!
Glad to be of help!
That engine, orange & black, just screams Halloween.
never seen anyoen do such detailed car work,you have really great skills.
You just earned a sub! Amazing videos you make, good details and amazing editing. Keep it up!
Excellent Job! I have really enjoyed this series. That engine should last for quite a few years.
Attention to details.
Great series! If I may add a little tip for next time this engine has to come out (which hopefully wont be for a long time!), pull the radiator core support out so you can pull the engine straight out. Makes it much much easier.
May as well pull the whole dog house at that point. It's only a few more bolts and a little wiring.
I considered it originally, but it's actually not that bad. The windshield wiper motor has to come out, but that's pretty much the only weird thing you need to do and leave the core support on there. The pulleys did make it easier, but this was the first time I took them off for a install/removal on this truck. Some of the core support and fender bolts are very rusty, and I'm afraid to touch them, to add to that haha.
Can't wait for the start up! Nice job on the build
please dont stop making these videos Thank you for the s10 build!!!!!!
Someone was supposed to be helping but didn't show up. What a jerk.
Great videos!
You have a lot of knowledge and it's impressive to watch. And you do things like me and liberally lubricate the outside of the PS reservoir.
You do nice work really like your videos good job
When you install a distributor with number 1 on top dead center and rotor pointing to number 1 you can turn the motor by hand and the rotor will follow the engine till the oil pump shaft drops in. Gr8 video series.
Good tip! This one was being a bit funny (I think something with that steel driveshaft) and the rotation probably would have helped it line up!
I just stumbled onto your channel, you have a great way of explaining things along with your camera angles . I am working on a 99 sonoma 2 wheel drive . Cheers 🇨🇦
Yes I can’t wait to hear that v8 sound
Very informative !!!
I had to tell myself to be patient. I've been turning wrenches for 30 yrs. People of ALL skill level watch.
I may be buying an S-10 & do the V8 swap.
Very nice work !!! Keep it up.
Go to Harbor Freight and get a set of the security bits, the nicer ones in the red case, that'll allow you to use a 1/4 ratchet on about any screwdriver bit, and do almost anything, you get a nice assortment.
BronzeChicken Good tip, I have ways to get those bits into ratchets, but most of that doesn't fit against the firewall. Only takes a few seconds and I like the small wrench since it's harder to accidentally overtorque them, so not really a problem.
I have a little ratcheting "thingy" for 1/4" bits that is perfect for stuff like that. Very very similar to "Neiko 03044A Mini Ratcheting Screwdriver and Bit Set, Pocket Size Close-Quarters ,1/4-Inch Drive " on Amazon, but mine is Craftsman, I think is even a little thinner yet, and was like $6 (a long time ago now, though). Anyhow, it's been a life saver here and there over the years. It was the only way I've done a couple of heater cores without removing the ENTIRE dash.
I just love your videos, keep up the awesome work!
love these videos!!!!! keep it up!!! can’t wait to see it fire up!!! what a tease!!!!
Keep this type of video for us . Very helpfull and not as corny no offence love this. Helps alot
Really enjoy watching your vid and cool little tech tips. Keep them coming man!!!
On Chevy's with auto trans, I usually concentrate on getting at least one dowel lined up, then a bell housing bolt in it. Then jack the trans or tilt the motor until the other dowel lined up and a bolt in. Then you shove the two together, get as many bolts in as you can, then remove floor jack, and set the motor onto the motor mounts.
Yep, that's the gist of it!
I have enjoyed this series
I’ve had the starter crack on my dad’s 350 Chevy suburban and it really really ruined the block. Along with that it leaked all the oil out of the drain pan bolt because Jiffy Lube ruined our drain pan by stripping it out. It leaked all soil and then it spun multiple bearings completely torching the internals of that engine had to take it apart with sledgehammers. So glad we got a new motor for it that was just rebuilt
wish i had all the money back i spent on vehicles over the years lol. nice vid!!
This series is very helpful
These videos are awesome and informative! Makes me want to swap a V8 into my Jeep... :D
I thought I saw on your engine bracket mounts, slide adjustment slots where the bolts pass through the bracket to the engine block this should given you the ability to slide the engine bracket forward or rearward on the engine block and that would prevent the bending of the bracket ears when you to tighten the through bolt/nut on the engine mount.
Your starter brace is all you need for your alternator,weld on a piece and make a Y shaped bracket.
Love the videos man makes me wanna do work on my s10
when you were putting the pully on I so wanted to take that wrench off the mount andclean the block and put that ground. LOL
As I recall, my '84 s-10 blazer had 6 bolts. The entire body and front fender group came loose in one piece.
18:31 cant wait for the oil cooler.
Motor plates for the mounts should be put on while the engine is out. Makes things tons easier.
Can't do that with these adapters, at least Transdapt claims that. In most cases, you are correct, but with the slotted ones and since I needed to shove washers in behind them and attach them at unusual angles because of the modifications, it really wouldn't have worked out.
never ever use spacers between converter and flex plate. say goodbye to crankshaft thrust bearing and or transmission pump bushing.....
The engine had used them before I got it, no wear on the thrust bearing to speak of, no issues noticed. It is pretty common to use washers to get the torque converter engagement set right. What alternative solution would you suggest? Running the torque converter partially engaged on the transmission oil pump has far, far greater potential to damage parts. Surface ground precision spacers/washers would be better than hardware store ones for sure, but as long as the thicknesses are close to the same it shouldn't be an issue.
What did you do to compensate forthe weight gain with the V8?
Did you put in stronger coil springs?
Flywheel is backwards. The in dent is to get bolt heads resessed from block as well as proper reach to torque converter.
It is on the right way around, the raised pads are toward the torque converter
put wax or chapstick works on gaskets to easily remove later on
Amazing video series bro. I'm from Germany and I don't know how much hp this this is producing. Could someone tell me how much hp this thing has??😖😖😫😉😂
Not much. Probably 250hp and 300 ft/lbs, that was the factory spec for this engine when it was fuel injected. Probably still close to that, but it is tough to say.
I I hate to say it but you need to add ads to your videos hopefully with a little bit of Revenue you could do a little bit bigger projects really like the vids. You really deserve more subscribers
No way... Small channels like FDPs are those that I like to support. He needs a Paypal so we can grab an oar and help pull the boat too.
I don't like Patreon.
I have a wife and kids who will go ballistic if I start it just donating money to some random PayPal account. Now what I can do is give views and watch the ads for ad Revenue no matter how small it just cost me my time not my sanity
Cool for you... I block ads.
I do (try to, at least) run ads on these videos, although they're not guaranteed and it has been tricky business the last year or two. Plus my videos get put on the "limited or no ads" list for pretty much every upload, and I have to appeal that which takes time.
I do make money from ads on these videos though, and it has funded some of these parts and parts for future projects!
20:27 What is the central hose without clamp on it ?
a vacuum hose ?
First line is the feed from the pump to the regulator (3/8"), second is the gas tank vent line to the evap canister (1/4"), third is the fuel return from the regulator to the tank (5/16"). So yep, basically just a vacuum hose!
Ok,
thanks.
is there no flywheel cover plates on the old vehicles?
So close!
What exhaust manifolds? I've doing a 4x4 swap just like this right now and every header I have gotten hits
Which ones have you tried? I have heard that even the swap headers don't clear on 4x4 trucks, which is why I skipped dealing with that. Wish I had that header exhaust sound though... The driver's side manifold is from a 1989-ish TBI 305 Camaro, and the passenger side from that would work too, but my passenger side one is from a 1990-ish Caprice 305 since that's what I found cheaply. There are some good (but old) pictures about halfway down this page of the ones that fit the best: www.superchevy.com/how-to/46298-chevrolet-s10-v8-engine-swap/
These manifolds are 78-87 G body or possibly 80-86 B body.
I'm in the middle of doing a swap..I ordered new manifolds 90-92 Camaro manifolds...my driver side is 2.25 outlet my pass side is 2 inch outlet...I got a HO and a low output manifold. What size are you using. My 2.25 o e fits fine on the driver side ...curious if I order a pass side 2.25 output manifold if it will fit
The factory method of accessing the top bellhousing bolts was to pull the body mount bolts and lift the body!
Really? I hadn't heard that before but it is so difficult to get to I wouldn't doubt it!
I wish I had someone with your skills and knoledge to help me with my engine, but im gonna try to do it alone.
What did your accessory brackets come off of? All I've seen is the aluminum ones.
What exhaust manifolds did you use? Any chance you have what they came off of or part numbers?
Is that the factor 350 starter, or did you need a a mini starter?
Surprised you didn't install a remote oil filter kit yet.
Nice job
Hey man where did u get the bracket for the belt drive that everything alternator and ps pump bolt too
What exhaust manifolds you running? I am doing this soon and was told I had to use headers because of the steering shaft
You should have took some time to clean the engine bay... you have a brand new engine in a rusty dirty engine bay it’s a pity...
I understand that sentiment, but that sort of thing wasn't in the cards this time. I needed it working again, and other than the front differential being covered in grime, the engine bay really isn't bad! The whole truck is rusty, so I didn't see the point in trying to fix it in one spot just for visuals when I'm not going to fix it anywhere else.
Plus, that grime helps keep it from rusting worse! It's that natural GM undercoating!
FuzzyDicePimp Yeah I understand your point... and you just uploaded a new video so you are forgiven 😂😂
I'm on that project now, can you tell me where did get oil pan, cheap?
I have a question....did you have to shorten the drive shaft or what did you do with that? What transmission did you use?
Installing a Stage II XTD clutch in my sons Jetta VR6 (fucking rocket on wheels) and watching you have room to get to the bolts without extensions and swivels with a mirror and blind luck has me wanting to work on an old school 350 again...I have a '66 Pontiac LeMans out in my shop with a 326... maybe I'll pull that bitch and detail it for fun😳
Great series, but what happened to your helper?
Most of my friends are very busy with work because of the time of year or just because of scheduling. Didn't want to have to wait around to make things work out, got it done myself this time, but I appreciate their help whenever possible!
That’s a GM, ATF works “just fine” in the Power steering.
You're killing me here!!! Lol
Why not use mechanical fan?
Is there a book on how to do this?
What engine and trans did you use for your s10?? Also, was there any custom fabrication you had to do? Ive been thinking about buying an s10 and installing a v8.
Check out the earlier videos, specifically episode 2 and 3. Pretty much everything, or at least the bigger things, are covered there.
Okay, I've never heard of spacing between the flex plate and converter. It has always been converter straight to the flex plate. Something is up here. This ain't right. Edit: Alright, I looked it up and it is a thing. Still seems odd to me to space that area.
is it tough to install a 305 in a 93 sonoma? any tips
were did you get the oil pan ? I have a 92 blazer
Idk if it's different in the states. But in Canada the 1988 S10 came with a 2.8 V6. The 4.3 wasn't available til 1989. Are you sure the original engine was a 4.3?
I believe 1988 was the first year they used the 4.3L in the US, maybe 1987 but I'm not too sure. It definitely is original, it had the emissions stickers and the VIN engine code matches it.
Fuzzy Dice Projects that's good to know. My parents bought a 1988 Jimmy Gypsy and it had the 2.8 litre. The engine had oil pressure issues from day one. After 6 months and a rebuilt my parents traded it in for the 89 model with the 4.3 high output. Doesn't surprise me cause I've noticed over the years even different models of cars and trucks available in the states aren't available here. In Canada the 4.3 HO was available from 89-92 then in 93 they went to the 4.3 vortec. Very similar to the HO but 10 more horse and little more torque. I built a 1990 S10 short box with a 10 inch lift. Never 350 swapped it but I did what I could to the 4.3 ho. Cam headers Ect.
Cool! I had to look up the Gypsy package as I'd never heard of that one before, seems like it is a decal package with the Tahoe trim, neat! What was involved in a 10 inch lift on an S10? That is pretty intense, had to be a solid axle swap right?
My 88 2wd has a 4.3. The 4.3 was first used in 85 in the Astro. Not sure when it first came in the s10 87 or 88.
What exhaust manifolds are from
yes
Why did you put washers between the flywheel and tc? I've done dozens of GM transmissions over the years and have never had to do this. Did you not match the tc to the specific engine used?
All three torque converters used with that engine needed two washers to space it out, I honestly don't know where that clearance comes from but it is always worth checking for it to get the pump engagement just right. Might be something with the trans model year, crankshaft thrust setup, flexplate... (First torque converter came with the 4.3L, second came with the V8 engine, third purchased as a reman 16-1800 stall.)
Interesting. Thanks for the reply
Most likely, even without the washers, everything would probably work just fine. Just an added touch for piece of mind that the torque converter has the ideal engagement for the transmission pump.
The way you install that distributor is hideous! Line the rotor up with #1 on top dead center compression. Drop the dist in making sure the rotor is pointing to #1, then all you have to do to line the oil pump shaft up is spin the engine over by hand until it drops into the shaft. You dont have to fuss with turning the shaft at all with a screwdriver, the dist gear is already meshed when you drop it in regardless if its in the pump shaft or not. Just spin the engine by hand.
What headers are those
Is that stock transmission?
I put a 350 with a 350 turbo transmission... But the driveshaft is to short? What driveshaft is everyone using?
Jamie Milam if you replaced a 700r4 with the th350, you need to use a long tail 350 from a pickup or a 72-76 Impala. It's the 9" tail instead of the more common 6" tail.
What manifolds did you use?
will the stock oil pan work or do i need a different oil pan? my s10 is a 1991 and 350 is a 77 motor
The only way it would work is if your S10 is 2WD. Still might be case-by-case but it is fairly likely a stock oil pan would fit. On a 4WD you need to modify one or get a purpose-built aftermarket pan.
What transmission did u use
were can I find you distributor
Ur awesome dude