Hey man, have to say, very good tutorial on the cambelt change. I'm a fully qualified technician of 7 years now and have to say there's no complaints with this. Top job. Thanks for the video to help the home mechanics out.
I changed the belt thank to your video. The car was Renault Twingo 2 with D4F772. The water pomp is a bit different: it goes directly to engo e without any hose. In this case its better to put the seal first on engine than pomp. Second diference: it wasn't necessary to unmount the starter, there is a hole big enough to put the screwdriver in. Of course smaller car, much less space. This is satisfaction to do it alone, thank you for a great movie. Filming all these parts in darkness and narrow spaces was so much work for you!
Hi, thanks for the comment and highlighting the differences on the twingo. Sorry this video was so dark, 2013 i didnt quite have the same amount of LED lights available as i would when making a video now.
I have been fearful of doing this job for ages and now you have given me the confidence to go out and do it. So many thanks. I am going to have to record the video so I can stop it to read the text though. So many thanks.
Hello, Nice video. I don't know if anyone has written but when you are trying to slacken the crank bolt you should use the 5th/6th gear (the upper gear) and the break. The mechanical explanation would be that on the 1st the couple multiplication will be greater then in 5th and the force that arrives at the wheels would be greater (so harder to brake). Have a nice day
Thank you for this clip. I'm about to do this in my car. Never did a timing belt exchange in my life. Still width this instruction it schould not be a problem.
Absolutely superb video, in the middle of doing one and keep running in for the next stage, I cannot believe after all the views it's only got 16 likes! Come on peeps, big it up! It's brilliant!
Thanks for the comment As for your question, i definatley would not advise using the drill bit to lock the flywheel against the torque of turning the breaker bar on the bolt the bit could snap and there would be problems, the screwdriver is a good strong screwdriver and it seemed to work much better, although the best method would be to get a flywheel locking tool that engages with the teeth and bolts onto one of the holes that the starter bolts to
Thanks, this was very helpful. To remove the pulley bolt I locked the engine with a drill bit through the TDC hole in the housing and flywheel just as you have shown later in the video.
Thanks for the comment My torque wrench only operates in the 40-210nm scale so it's not much use apart from the engine mount bolts (62nm) and crankshaft pulley bolt (40nm and 70 degrees) the rest of the bolts were just tightened enough. I suppose experience helps to judge what enough is, I've had my fair share of snapped off bolts in the past
This is an excellent piece of work. If you were one of my students, I would give you a distinction! Could be improved by mentioning that the air con compressor and bracket (if fitted) needs removing to access the second bolt for the coolant outlet pipe from the water pump.
+133JDW Haha thanks for the comment. Yes I've heard the air con components adds a bit of work around the clios engine bay, at the time i did this video i had only been in a few of these mk2 clios, all povery spec with no air con so never thought about the extra components being fitted. It does seem to add a bit of extra work, must have been a bit of an afterthought adding the air con parts.
Many thanks from germany. we did it exactly the way you did in the video, except for the bolt in the flywheel, it came loose nicely. thank you for your effort making this video, it saved us a lot of time and money :)
Complimenti per l'ottima video guida. L'ho utilizzata come riferimento per i lavori sulla mia Clio 3 con motore 1.2 16V. Anche con qualche complicazione dovuta agli ulteriori accessori installati è stata un aiuto determinante. Ancora complimenti.
Brilliant < I will go out now and do the job, so simple when you watch it done the clio i have to do is slightly different in that the oil filler is slightly remote from the cam cover ,,,hope the job goes like yours did , thanks for tubing this.
If anything sound strange its to late to turn of the engine... ;) Doing this on a -99 Clio 1.4 8v, hope its the same procedure, very helpful, thanks! (The belt snapped so i have some valve job to do, being an interference engine, i hope the pistons made it ok, i'll soon know...
Ive no need to change the clutch on this clio but i do have a 406 that im breaking and i plan to take out the gearbox so ill be making some video about the clutch hopefully
Hey, great work man. I can tell you are a proper skilled mechanic as there is no torque wrench in sight. Thanks for taking the time to make this vid. I've got one to do very soon so this was very helpful.
Please i need help on my clio, i have the same engine, i can't explain the problem but there is a video on youtube that can show you my problem, please help me m.ruclips.net/video/wzCeAFlyuro/видео.html
I think the scenic engine is a 1.6 16v, im not sure how similar it is to this engine some things might be different, such as wheel arch liners, how you remove the engine mount and how the new belt is tightened on, but this video should give you an idea of what is involved.
Same here you are the best I recently tried to change the t-belt on my D4F-712 but couldn't remove the crankshaft bolt (tried impact gun and starter-brakebar) i have bought the materials from Gates and now i will try the screwdriver-crankshaft method Good work man Question you think i could use the tdc locking pin to lock the flywheel and lossen the bolt instead of the screwdriver?
Hi there, i am not too sure. Is this a Twingo 1 the LHD version we did not get here in RHD markets or one of the later twingos? I think generally the D4F is the same in most Renaults, i did a belt in a Clio 4 with the same engine and it generally remained the same as it was in this Clio 2. Just the bits surrounding the engine have changed.
The paint mark would have worked fine, its only that after taking off the starter to get the crankshaft bolt undone the alignment hole was there, its handy becuase once the belt is fitted you can turn the engine over by hand then check to see it all lines up again, although the paint method would work the same.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV No ,it seems to be a much easyer job on the ford.Both cars I,mlooking at similar kms on the clock.I do as much repairs as I can with my self taught mechanics.
@@df289 It's not really that hard on the Clio to be honest, I've done quite a few now don't really consider them a hard engine to change the belt on. Even in the more cramped modus. Knowing how it comes apart is half the battle, there is no need for specialist tools thankfully. Although i will say that a focus will be a lot nicer on the motorway than a 1.2 clio, the clio with that engine is not geared well for 70mph far too loud and the seats start to get tiring to sit in. Grand as an urban runabout or if you are starting out and cheap insurance is paramount. Not for longer drives, i will say one of the most unpleasant cars i have driven on the motorway. Unless perhaps you get the 1.5 DCi but then for long distance drives why not just buy a used diesel saloon and enjoy a bit of comfort. The unending debate haha. Enjoy your focus.
is there a reason why the holes on the flywheel/engine housing can't be used to lock the crankshaft when removing the crankshaft pulley, would that save removing the starter motor?
Hi, Please could you help if you can. I have just been changing the timing belt. All was well until the last tensioning sequencing of loosen the tensioner bolt (whilst holding with the 6mm allen key). If I turn the allen key clockwise the markers move anti-clockwise away from the final position (IE the spring is compressing more, so the cam must be loosening the belt), but if I turn the allen key anti-clockwise (ie the same way you first adjust the tensioner) the markers moves clockwise to the correct position. Any ideas why? Thanks
Do you have a recommendation regarding a Good Quality belt and Pump kit. The price is not important (although not main dealer!) I just want to ensure i get a high quality one. Also, that has got to be one of the Best mechanic instruction videos I've ever seen. Fantastic job, well done :-)
Steve J Hi, thanks for the comment. No avoid main dealer parts at all costs, absolute rip offs. Good belt and water pumps to name a few brands; Gates, SKF, Ina. Renault will not have made the belt or water pump themselves it’s usually one of those companies so a dealer is just sticking a huge markup on the parts. Any reputable motor factors will have suppliers that get in good parts, whereas with going online there are a lot of lower quality items about.
Very frustrating I can’t get the tensioner to adjust and line up in between each other like you show ! The tensioner keeps slipping and doesn’t get close to lining up its very frustrating had the head totally rebuilt new belt kit 🤦♂️. Just thinking if the tensioner is faulty maybe 🤔
Hi there, When you say it keeps slipping, is this after you tighten the central nut? It can take a few goes with tensioners. Sometimes the act of tightening up the nut will move the arrow a bit, you need to judge how much it slips when you tighten the nut and account for that when you set its position before tightening the central nut.
The marks are there since i got the car, and are not tippex but something else which wont rub off, a bit pointless really because the HT leads on this clio are shaped so they only fit a certain spark plug, you cant really wire them up wrong. Having said that the numbers printed onto the HT leads do match up with the numbers on the inlet manifold with 1 starting at the gearbox side, and 4 at the crankshaft pulley side.
Great video! Really helped me a lot when I changed the timing belt on the sister-in-laws Clio. However... After I changed it and started the engine, it sounded a bit more tap, tap, tap than before. Also it whirrs a great deal when traveling at speed. Any ideas? I was thinking it could be out by a tooth. Or the tensioner could be over tight (but there's no whirring noise on tick over) Thanks
Hi I've just bought the same car as in the video for my partners first car and although it's stamped as being serviced at the correct interval for a belt change no note was left it was done so rther then risk it will get it done. Do you have any idea or a rough ball park of how much the work costs to get done? Cheers and great vid
Excellent video, very informative! just one questions though that has always bugged me. I know the crankshaft gets locked in position with the drill bit in the flywheel but what about the camshaft sprocket after tdc has been found? do you need to lock the camshaft when removing the belt incase it moves? thanks again for the video, great stuff!
Good video. I've just acquired one of these on a 53 plate with 72k miles and no service history. Why do you fit the belt then crank the engine 6 times, what's the purpose of this? And how long did it take you? It seems sensible for me to do this myself, looks pretty straightforward. The car was very cheap but runs great. It'd be a shame to lose the engine to a belt failure. Thanks
Hi, they are a good tough dependable car if given the most basic of maintenance, even with a limited service history an oil flush followed by fresh oil and filter and timing belt should ensure the clio runs for a good few years. 6 times, no real reason "to be sure to be sure" is the only explanation I can give, I was definitely sure the engine turned over freely when the new belt was on, better to check it at that time than having the engine lock up whilst cranking over by the starter. I started this job on a Saturday morning and had it done that evening which included the video process, so not too time consuming.
Thanks for a simple to follow video. I have done hundreds of belts, but never a Clio 1.2....just my luck :-) It's a great heads up and good tips. One thing, what size drill bit? It looks like a 6 or 7mm.
Thanks for the comment, i think it was 6 or 7mm but honestly cant remember i just had a box of drill bits to hand and one of them sat in the hole nicely with minimal play
Im not sure ive only worked on this one without the air con, i would have thought the AC pump ran off the same belt as the alternator, then the covers for everything else was the same, send me a PM with pictures of the covers you are having trouble removing
Its usually best to change it on an interval instead of waiting for signs to develop, but the tensioners can wear out causing odd screechy or scraping sounds, the water pump can either its propellors break up, or its bearings can wear out and it makes similar noises. But its usually best to change the belt at the recommended interval, if buying a used car with a patchy service history and no evidence the belt has been changed its usually good to have it done just to be sure.
Just done this. Was not hard with help from this video. Hardest part is tge tensioner.you must get thiis part right. I would advise checking the tention a month after install to make sure tensioner is still working ok also i tightened the tensioner nur right up quite hard i think its meant to be 50nm
The spring-loaded tensioners are handy as it takes the worries away about whether or not the correct tension is set. Unfortunately with the manually adjusted type they can be set by feel but you need to know how the belt should feel, a basic belt tension gauge is good for reassurance that the tensioner is set correctly.
Hello! Do you have any idea if changing the timing belt can cause an irregular misfire but no taping or other mechanical noises? I've just changed the timing belt on my Dacia with a D4F-732 engine (same as 722 but updated for Euro 5) without locking the crankshaft and I accidentally dropped the bottom sprocket when removing the old belt. After putting it back on the crankshaft it was aligned fine with the marks on the engine, so I don't think it moved. I presume the sprocket can't move indepently of the crankshaft. Anyhow, I'll change the sparkplugs and the leads and see if it fixes something but it would be nice to have your input on this. Thanks!
So I did the timing belt after previous one snapped, now I start it but its running very rough! how do I know if the roughness is down to bad timing or because of bent valves?
+pierrelarouge A compression and leak down test might be good to identify a bent valve. Also check your alignment marks, if everything is still in line at TDC but the roughness remains then there is a good chance the valves are causing the problem
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Late update but it was the valves, replaced the bent ones and been running nice ever since, was pretty big job though for someone who never worked on cars before, your video saved me £100's of pounds.
Hi there... I am about to do the timing on my 2003 D4F Kangoo this weekend... I just watched your video - it is great - but wanted to ask you if it's not better to remove the timing pin (the drill bit) before you rotate the tensioner anti-clockwise? Then you rotate the crank 6 times, insert the timing pin again, recheck timing and again remove the timing pin as you rotate the tensioner clockwise this time for the final adjustment - until pointer is in center position?
This was a 2002 car, it was a dynamique which did not come with air conditioning. I have the same video for a mk3 clio D4F that did have air conditioning. You dont need to disconnect anything from the pump just perhaps move it out of the road at times.
I have strange noise after the timing belt change (from that area).. the tensior is in corect place. Which kit do you use in this video? INA, Gates, conti? Thanks
Hi, the tensioner, water pump and idler wheels shouldn't have any grumbling noises when rotated by hand, that unfortunately is something that can only really be checked with the belt off. I used a Gates kit here.
peugeotCitroen2CV If the top camshaft sprocket was misaligned with the belt by just 1 tooth, would it cause the car to misfire slightly or would it run absolutely terrible? I have a slight misfire after re assembling the timing belt that i never had before, its not really bad just like e tremor and judder now and again, any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
In some cases you might get a bit of a misfire if its out of time, if its out of time typically it will run badly and wont be able to rev too high. If you never had the misfire before the work was done then it could be out of time, when tightening up the new belt its very easy to slip a tooth, its why its important to turn the engine manually by hand a good few times to make sure the alignment marks for both the camshaft and crankshaft line up
Set the tension first, then turn the engine over by hand a few times to check the pistons and valves dont hit, double check the tensioner make sure it is still pointing at the correct spot. You should be good to go from there.
Great video mate. I'm contemplating changing my girlfriends belt shortly. I've changed everything on a car except a timing belt. I usually avoid. Any particular flywheel locking tools that are recommended? Cheers
Philip Cliff Its not a particularly hard job to do, as timing belts go this is a good one to start with. No i didnt use any special tools a cheap set of lidl drill bits and a few old nuts and bolts are more than enough to do the locking job.
You can just mark the position of the camshaft against the cover behind the camshaft sprocket with some marker or tipex but i prefer locking it into place for the peace of mind
Northing to stop them being reused, in general it just makes sense to change the other parts when in there to save the bother of having to do it again.
can i remove plastic cover without taking crankshaft pulley off ? i just want to inspect my belt. also how do you tension the alternator belt up ? thanks :)
The lower cover goes around the crankshaft pulley, so it has to come off first. I have another video on the alternator of these clios from what i recall its tightened with a nut, a pry bar sets the tension on the alternator then tighten up the nut.
Hi there. I know this has got nothing to do with this video in particular. But I watched your videos to fix my kangoo with same engine. I have a problem with my steering wheel that gets stiff only when engine warms up. Any Idea of what could be the cause of that issue? Thanks
Hi there, What type of steering does your kangoo have, these clios have an electric steering rack, not sure if the kangoo uses it or a hydraulic setup. If its electric then there could be something going on with the connections going to the motor.
@@antoniocerbone802 Ah its not an electric column like the clio, might not be as hard to fix. Its worth checking to see where the pump is, its either a hydraulic pump driven by the engine in which case check the belt that it is not slipping. If the pump is electric then its contacts may need checked.
Thanks for this took me an entire day but I did get there off the back of this video! My heater has now stopped blowing can anyone advise what I'm likely to have knocked? Thank you.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Thanks anyway checked mine now and amazingly they were all even across each rocker and well in tolerances. My engine was set to the tighter figures, grooves in cam blah blah.....;-)
The TCE 1.2 is basically the D4F engine just extra piping for the turbo. It should be fairly similar but i have never done the job on the TCE engine to be able to say its the exact same process.
The parts here cost me about £80 and i was working at this for about a day, i think you could spend about £100 in labour costs, although this is just a guess
Feel the old belt before you take it off to get an idea of how tight it should feel, in paticular twist it to see how much it can twist by. The tensioner itself was turned so that the pointer on it is in the correct position. The instructions that come with it should illustrate this.
+JulianJEGG From wikipedia it says the Symbol has the D4F engine, which is what i am working on here in this video. We dont have the symbol here in the UK and ireland, although i have seen a few imported thalias before which are booted clios.
I HAVE CLIO 1.4 2008 PRESENT KM 110000.MY CAR ALSO TIMING BELT???? HOW IS THE REPLACEMENT PERIOD OF TIMING BELT & HAVE ANY OTHER PARTS NEED TO REPLACE WITH TIMING BELT (TENSSIONER , WATER PUMP...)
LOUD NOISES SHOUTING LOUDLY, CAPS LOCK HAS AN OFF MODE Only joking haha. Ah your best bet is get a gates kit with the belt tensioners, idlers and water pump. Regarding the interval i cant remember google will help, but if its a used purchase with limited history your best bet is to change the belt just as preventative maintenance
70,000 miles or 5 years. Whatever one of the two comes first, the 5 years is the bit some forget, the rubber degrades so even if the car has done relatively few miles it is still worthwhile changing the belt.
If the belt snaps then the bill will be much bigger than changing just a belt now, my clio still fetched £800 even with the tatty bodywork, and it was on 71k miles, there should be plenty of life left in it yet.
i got quoted nearly £400 for this so i watched this video and did it myself ! ended up costing me £63.80 and a day and a half of my time ! well happy thanks for the video !!
Hi, start by saying all your tutorials are very well done. I have a 2003 1.4 Clio. I have an oil leak and coming from timing side of engine. Ive seen on forums that its common for oil seal to fail and in your video it shows how to strip down for belt change, if I remove the bottom crank pully does it have to be put back in exact place to keep timing? I will mark it with pen to make sure or would you suggest different. Ive done a belt change before but not the seal. Thanks very much. Mark.
The bottom timing sprocket has to come off, but where it attaches there should be a notch or woodruff key (a square bit of metal) where the sprocket lines up with the crankshaft, it can only go in one way. Then once its back on its the same process for putting back a belt on. Take a look at my channel, ive done a timing belt on a 406, the crankshaft oil seal had to be changed and the process should be fairly similar to the clios.
Thanks so much for information. I've since found out it's not coming from oil seal and it is coming from head gasket. So going to have to go to garage as it's a bit much for me to do haha. Thanks again for reply. Much appreciate your efforts.
Ah yes they can leak oil through the head gasket when it goes. Shouldn't actually be too hard to do a HG diy but at the same time a good garage can probably do the work a lot quicker with less fuss.
+peugeotCitroen2CV yes they can have the trouble of doing it for me. well with every penny of less hassle for me. would you recommend getting anything else done while it's being replaced?
Funny ive just bought my grandparents a saxo which has needed a head gasket (i should have spotted it but bought the car) Its been a bit time consuming trying to get it fixed myself, getting the head skimmed is worth it for the peace of mind, have them check the valve stem seals, on the saxo i changed a steering rack gater when the head was off it improved access, cant think of anything on the clio.
Hi ! Chaning the belt that way you have to separate the engine block from gearbox ? Please give me an answear. I really want to change the timing belt for my Clio 1 on my own. Thanks !
Hi, you dont need to seperate the engine and gearbox to do a timing belt. I certainly did not remove the gearbox in this video, the starter came off so that i could avail of the hole on the block that lines up with the hole on the flywheel. Its possible to just mark off the crankshaft sprocket with tippex or similar type marker but locking the flyhweel is a safer thing to do.
Thank you for reply , PeugeotCitroen2CV ! Now it makes sense that I have to block the flywheel by removing the starter. If I'm not too insistent I want to ask you how to block the camshaft while I'm changing the old belt. On DOHC camshafts I understood I can block the both camshafts by introducing something that stops them moving. But on single camshaft you have to get it on the sign only ?
I dont know for sure never worked on a twingo, according to wikipedia (not always 100% accurate) the 07 twingo got both the d7f 8v and d4f 16v engine, so if your twingos engine looks like this d4f id say the procedure should be mostly the same.
Hi, when the timing belt is removed SHOULD the camshaft sprocket be very hard to turn over with a spanner on the end of it? Is it normal for the springs to have a lot of tension as the camshaft rotates by hand? I have rebuilt my head with new valves, seals, skimmed etc and set up the valve clearances perfect BUT it still seems very stiff to rotate around, with every complete revelotion ie from 12 oclock to 12 back again, it turns quite stiff when the tip of the camshaft is pointing up, then as it comes off the tip (rolls over) it goes slack again. It does this 4 times per every complete 360 degrees revolution. I find it strange that the camshaft is quite stiff to rotate i would of imagined it to turn by hand easily, i can turn the crankshaft over by hand with the wheel. With the camshaft being so stiff to turn and resistance felt i imagine the belt must be under extreme pressure, is all this normal
I have never changed the head on a clio, the height of the work i have done on the clios engine was just change the timing belt, there was never any need to turn the camshaft on is own so i cant comment on how it should feel. I recall getting a similar question to yours within the past few weeks, i would recommend going over to renault forums to discuss this as its more likely you will be able to discuss this with someone who has rebuilt the head on this engine
peugeotCitroen2CV have a citreon c3 1.4hdi 16v 2002----bought it for daughter only 70 miles from it was motd-------problems minute mechanic(personal friend) put up on lift---brake discs and pads done front -drop link done-- shock o/s done--------pollen filter hadnt been changed in years but my question to you---its very smoky white smoke---------(back box and middle pipe peppered with small holes) getting it fixed next week-----expansion tank ----doesnt seem to be loosing antifreeze-no oil in it-oil its self looks normal -- no discoloration when changing it and filter ---car not overheating-----i bought--- hi gear cyclinder head repair @£15 and put in bottle-----still a bit smoky-------it seems to take fits of being overly smoky but hes not sure exactly what the cause is-any ideas from u would be appreciated? thanks
chevy790 If your getting white smoke, and loosing water id suspect the head gasket, them bottles of head gasket repair dont always work 100%, it might be worth getting a compression test done, or one of them tests to see if there are any combustion gases contaminating the coolant.
SP330Y I'm sure you've sorted this by now, but for others: The cam is hard to turn after a rebuild with all new components, but once it has run in and the oil is distributed it should be a bit easier. However, it will be tight, then slacken off as the lobes of the cam go past their zenith (in other words, the valves start to close). It will be normal for it to be like this 4 times in the 360 cycle.
can u advise please-----------my wife went to her renault clio 2002 only to discover that she had lost the key blade out of fob (dont know what happened) the fob still opened central locking-we have a spare key--just a manual one-no transponder on it-it opens car turns on lights on dash but wont turn on engine(took plastic handle of this key but it wont push into fob as its not actually a renault key blade)------i have a spare renault uncut blade i bought with a replacement key fob cover-------if i took manual key and uncut blade to locksmith and got it cut to match and then pushed it back into working fob will that solve problem------i cant seem to establish even on renault forum if the blade has to be ordered of renault as its actually chipped------- some say on forum-no chip in blade-some say there is and getting blade cut still wont start car---------car is 50 miles away and cant contact renault spares for assistance until tommorrow when they open but can get blade cut if not chippedtoday-----anyone or admin of page advise thanks-tried holding transponder on ignition barrel when trying manual key no luck
+chevy790 Hi, in general the metal part of the blade doesnt have the chip, thats in the plastic casing typically. As a quick get you out of trouble fix try hold your old casing around the key barrel, as if its on the end of the blade, then turn the blade to start the car. With the casing near the barrel the immobilizer ring should pick up the chip and unlock letting you start the car.(I typed that before reading the bit where you mentioned you tried that, but you need to hold the casing really close up to the immobilizer barrel and do it before you turn on the electrics so as soon as it turns on it can search for and find the chip) Then just get a locksmith to cut a key blade that will fit into the casing, or get a replacement blank casing with blank blade off ebay, swap over the button and immobilizer chip, get the blade cut and put it into the case.
no luck-i tried holding the fob as near as i could-car did turn over but would start-i had a renault clio blade i got with a new cover for transponder-took it to a key cutter-he immediatly said it would cost £30 to cut it against my manual one(took him all of 30 seconds) as it works up to point-got to car-key inserted but wouldnt turn at all-cant figure what was wrong unless it wasnt cut properly------car loaded on transporter took home-have found a barrell and keys for it for clio mk2 in shed id forgotton about-if i changed barrell would key in it start car?-----------i could use remote for cental locking and seperate key to start it-maybe its not as simple as doing this ?
+chevy790 Key blade cutting typically shouldnt cost more than a tenner, but i suppose it varies from place to place. It seems like you have got a problem with the immobilizer, its easy enough to change the key barrel but getting the immobilizer to unlock is the tricky part. Inside your keyfob can you see if the immobilizer chip is there? Its a bit of messing about in this video but at 0:10 you can see the immobilizer ring and chip im on about ruclips.net/video/ENpz5nf0Mfo/видео.html Its quite similar on the renault, take a look inside the casing just to be sure the chip hasnt fell out.
![[ES] Watch and Work - Renault Twingo 1.2l 16V](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/G0y6rQEocEA/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey man, have to say, very good tutorial on the cambelt change. I'm a fully qualified technician of 7 years now and have to say there's no complaints with this. Top job. Thanks for the video to help the home mechanics out.
Hi thanks for the comment glad to hear from a professional that it was done ok.
I changed the belt thank to your video. The car was Renault Twingo 2 with D4F772. The water pomp is a bit different: it goes directly to engo e without any hose. In this case its better to put the seal first on engine than pomp. Second diference: it wasn't necessary to unmount the starter, there is a hole big enough to put the screwdriver in. Of course smaller car, much less space. This is satisfaction to do it alone, thank you for a great movie. Filming all these parts in darkness and narrow spaces was so much work for you!
Hi, thanks for the comment and highlighting the differences on the twingo.
Sorry this video was so dark, 2013 i didnt quite have the same amount of LED lights available as i would when making a video now.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV no need to apologise for the quality. Its so much effort to make such a instruction. Thank you
I have been fearful of doing this job for ages and now you have given me the confidence to go out and do it. So many thanks. I am going to have to record the video so I can stop it to read the text though. So many thanks.
Hello,
Nice video.
I don't know if anyone has written but when you are trying to slacken the crank bolt you should use the 5th/6th gear (the upper gear) and the break. The mechanical explanation would be that on the 1st the couple multiplication will be greater then in 5th and the force that arrives at the wheels would be greater (so harder to brake).
Have a nice day
Your videos are among the best car troubleshooting videos in youtube. They are clear and easy to understand. Many thanks for sharing them.
Thanks for the comment
Thank you for this clip. I'm about to do this in my car. Never did a timing belt exchange in my life. Still width this instruction it schould not be a problem.
Best of luck with the repair, if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask
Absolutely superb video, in the middle of doing one and keep running in for the next stage, I cannot believe after all the views it's only got 16 likes!
Come on peeps, big it up! It's brilliant!
Thanks for the comment
As for your question, i definatley would not advise using the drill bit to lock the flywheel against the torque of turning the breaker bar on the bolt the bit could snap and there would be problems, the screwdriver is a good strong screwdriver and it seemed to work much better, although the best method would be to get a flywheel locking tool that engages with the teeth and bolts onto one of the holes that the starter bolts to
Great video! Followed it today when I changed the belt on my daughters car. Thank you
Thanks, this was very helpful. To remove the pulley bolt I locked the engine with a drill bit through the TDC hole in the housing and flywheel just as you have shown later in the video.
Thanks for the comment
My torque wrench only operates in the 40-210nm scale so it's not much use apart from the engine mount bolts (62nm) and crankshaft pulley bolt (40nm and 70 degrees) the rest of the bolts were just tightened enough.
I suppose experience helps to judge what enough is, I've had my fair share of snapped off bolts in the past
This is an excellent piece of work. If you were one of my students, I would give you a distinction! Could be improved by mentioning that the air con compressor and bracket (if fitted) needs removing to access the second bolt for the coolant outlet pipe from the water pump.
+133JDW Haha thanks for the comment. Yes I've heard the air con components adds a bit of work around the clios engine bay, at the time i did this video i had only been in a few of these mk2 clios, all povery spec with no air con so never thought about the extra components being fitted. It does seem to add a bit of extra work, must have been a bit of an afterthought adding the air con parts.
Many thanks from germany. we did it exactly the way you did in the video, except for the bolt in the flywheel, it came loose nicely. thank you for your effort making this video, it saved us a lot of time and money :)
Great to hear you got it sorted. Thanks for the commment
Complimenti per l'ottima video guida. L'ho utilizzata come riferimento per i lavori sulla mia Clio 3 con motore 1.2 16V. Anche con qualche complicazione dovuta agli ulteriori accessori installati è stata un aiuto determinante. Ancora complimenti.
Thanks for the comment
Grazie per il commento
Salvatore Unali como cambiar el disco de embrague de el Renault Clio 1,2
Great to hear the video is helping, thanks for the comment
Funny, I thought "remove drivers side wheel" was wrong till I relized you guys drive on the other side haha
Ah yes, sorry about that we have the steering wheel on the right.
Brilliant < I will go out now and do the job, so simple when you watch it done the clio i have to do is slightly different in that the oil filler is slightly remote from the cam cover ,,,hope the job goes like yours did , thanks for tubing this.
Thanks for the comment
Good video, just got a twingo with the same engine and can't find any record of the belt being replaced. It's only got 19K on it on a 60 plate.
It will be at the age wehre it would need a belt changed, better to be safe than sorry when it comes to timing belts.
If anything sound strange its to late to turn of the engine... ;) Doing this on a -99 Clio 1.4 8v, hope its the same procedure, very helpful, thanks! (The belt snapped so i have some valve job to do, being an interference engine, i hope the pistons made it ok, i'll soon know...
Ive no need to change the clutch on this clio but i do have a 406 that im breaking and i plan to take out the gearbox so ill be making some video about the clutch hopefully
Hey, great work man. I can tell you are a proper skilled mechanic as there is no torque wrench in sight.
Thanks for taking the time to make this vid. I've got one to do very soon so this was very helpful.
Best video I have seen on this job, very well done!
+Mike Lewis Thanks for the comment
Please i need help on my clio, i have the same engine, i can't explain the problem but there is a video on youtube that can show you my problem, please help me m.ruclips.net/video/wzCeAFlyuro/видео.html
I think the scenic engine is a 1.6 16v, im not sure how similar it is to this engine some things might be different, such as wheel arch liners, how you remove the engine mount and how the new belt is tightened on, but this video should give you an idea of what is involved.
Same here you are the best
I recently tried to change the t-belt on my D4F-712
but couldn't remove the crankshaft bolt
(tried impact gun and starter-brakebar)
i have bought the materials from Gates and now i will try the screwdriver-crankshaft method
Good work man
Question
you think i could use the tdc locking pin to lock the flywheel and lossen the bolt instead of the screwdriver?
Brilliant video. Well done you 😊 regards from Spain 🇪🇦
Thank you! Cheers!
Hello, can I ask if it's the same for a renault twingo 1.2 16v? Or there are any differences?
Hi there, i am not too sure.
Is this a Twingo 1 the LHD version we did not get here in RHD markets or one of the later twingos?
I think generally the D4F is the same in most Renaults, i did a belt in a Clio 4 with the same engine and it generally remained the same as it was in this Clio 2. Just the bits surrounding the engine have changed.
The paint mark would have worked fine, its only that after taking off the starter to get the crankshaft bolt undone the alignment hole was there, its handy becuase once the belt is fitted you can turn the engine over by hand then check to see it all lines up again, although the paint method would work the same.
great video very clear and illustrative.
hoping to see a video about changing the clutch disk
keep up the good work
This video is the reason I,m not going to buy a Renault clio 2007 but a ford focus 2007 instead.Thanks.
The reason is not wanting to have to change a cambelt once every 5 or so years?
@@peugeotCitroen2CV No ,it seems to be a much easyer job on the ford.Both cars I,mlooking at similar kms on the clock.I do as much repairs as I can with my self taught mechanics.
@@df289
It's not really that hard on the Clio to be honest, I've done quite a few now don't really consider them a hard engine to change the belt on. Even in the more cramped modus. Knowing how it comes apart is half the battle, there is no need for specialist tools thankfully.
Although i will say that a focus will be a lot nicer on the motorway than a 1.2 clio, the clio with that engine is not geared well for 70mph far too loud and the seats start to get tiring to sit in. Grand as an urban runabout or if you are starting out and cheap insurance is paramount. Not for longer drives, i will say one of the most unpleasant cars i have driven on the motorway.
Unless perhaps you get the 1.5 DCi but then for long distance drives why not just buy a used diesel saloon and enjoy a bit of comfort. The unending debate haha.
Enjoy your focus.
Best video indeed, but those engines are a pleasure to work on.
Thanks for the comment
Yes these engines are generally not too bad to work on.
is there a reason why the holes on the flywheel/engine housing can't be used to lock the crankshaft when removing the crankshaft pulley, would that save removing the starter motor?
Hi, Please could you help if you can. I have just been changing the timing belt.
All was well until the last tensioning sequencing of loosen the tensioner bolt (whilst holding with the 6mm allen key).
If I turn the allen key clockwise the markers move anti-clockwise away from the final position (IE the spring is compressing more, so the cam must be loosening the belt), but if I turn the allen key anti-clockwise (ie the same way you first adjust the tensioner) the markers moves clockwise to the correct position.
Any ideas why?
Thanks
Do you have a recommendation regarding a Good Quality belt and Pump kit. The price is not important (although not main dealer!) I just want to ensure i get a high quality one.
Also, that has got to be one of the Best mechanic instruction videos I've ever seen. Fantastic job, well done :-)
Steve J
Hi, thanks for the comment.
No avoid main dealer parts at all costs, absolute rip offs.
Good belt and water pumps to name a few brands; Gates, SKF, Ina. Renault will not have made the belt or water pump themselves it’s usually one of those companies so a dealer is just sticking a huge markup on the parts.
Any reputable motor factors will have suppliers that get in good parts, whereas with going online there are a lot of lower quality items about.
Very frustrating
I can’t get the tensioner to adjust and line up in between each other like you show ! The tensioner keeps slipping and doesn’t get close to lining up its very frustrating had the head totally rebuilt new belt kit 🤦♂️. Just thinking if the tensioner is faulty maybe 🤔
Hi there,
When you say it keeps slipping, is this after you tighten the central nut?
It can take a few goes with tensioners. Sometimes the act of tightening up the nut will move the arrow a bit, you need to judge how much it slips when you tighten the nut and account for that when you set its position before tightening the central nut.
The marks are there since i got the car, and are not tippex but something else which wont rub off, a bit pointless really because the HT leads on this clio are shaped so they only fit a certain spark plug, you cant really wire them up wrong.
Having said that the numbers printed onto the HT leads do match up with the numbers on the inlet manifold with 1 starting at the gearbox side, and 4 at the crankshaft pulley side.
Great video! Really helped me a lot when I changed the timing belt on the sister-in-laws Clio.
However...
After I changed it and started the engine, it sounded a bit more tap, tap, tap than before. Also it whirrs a great deal when traveling at speed.
Any ideas?
I was thinking it could be out by a tooth. Or the tensioner could be over tight (but there's no whirring noise on tick over)
Thanks
Just finished it today, all good Many thanks!
Far far better than Haynes!
Good video man, is it essential to have it at TDC, or can you use the 'Paint mark' technique? Does it effect it or anything?
are all d4f versions timing belts interchangeable? also is timing belt kit the same for D7f and D4f engine (8V and 16V)???
Hi
I've just bought the same car as in the video for my partners first car and although it's stamped as being serviced at the correct interval for a belt change no note was left it was done so rther then risk it will get it done.
Do you have any idea or a rough ball park of how much the work costs to get done?
Cheers and great vid
thank you. You made my day too. No help from service manual books.
Thank you for this video you made it so good , so I do not need special tools for this job.
Hi, thanks for the comment.
No there shouldnt really be any need for special tools.
Is the fltwheel locking hole just there, or is it covered by the starter?
I try to adjust the timing of the subtitles but can fail to get it right sometimes, sorry about that.
Excellent video, very informative! just one questions though that has always bugged me. I know the crankshaft gets locked in position with the drill bit in the flywheel but what about the camshaft sprocket after tdc has been found? do you need to lock the camshaft when removing the belt incase it moves?
thanks again for the video, great stuff!
many thanks for posting this, been a big help
Thanks. Great Job.
Thanks for the comment.
Many thanks, I have the job to do so I will watch it again prior to :+)
Excellent work! I'm off out to get myself a Clio and try that for myself.
:- ]
Great job and nice video, just need to pause the text for a bit longer ☺
Good video. I've just acquired one of these on a 53 plate with 72k miles and no service history. Why do you fit the belt then crank the engine 6 times, what's the purpose of this? And how long did it take you?
It seems sensible for me to do this myself, looks pretty straightforward. The car was very cheap but runs great. It'd be a shame to lose the engine to a belt failure.
Thanks
Hi, they are a good tough dependable car if given the most basic of maintenance, even with a limited service history an oil flush followed by fresh oil and filter and timing belt should ensure the clio runs for a good few years.
6 times, no real reason "to be sure to be sure" is the only explanation I can give, I was definitely sure the engine turned over freely when the new belt was on, better to check it at that time than having the engine lock up whilst cranking over by the starter. I started this job on a Saturday morning and had it done that evening which included the video process, so not too time consuming.
peugeotCitroen2CV cheers mate, that's grand 😀
Thanks for a simple to follow video. I have done hundreds of belts, but never a Clio 1.2....just my luck :-) It's a great heads up and good tips. One thing, what size drill bit? It looks like a 6 or 7mm.
Thanks for the comment, i think it was 6 or 7mm but honestly cant remember i just had a box of drill bits to hand and one of them sat in the hole nicely with minimal play
Im not sure ive only worked on this one without the air con, i would have thought the AC pump ran off the same belt as the alternator, then the covers for everything else was the same, send me a PM with pictures of the covers you are having trouble removing
Great vid. Question: the hole where you insert the drill, is that the hole where the starter was removed? Thx
Hi there, yes that hole is made more accessible with the starter removed
Thx!!
Great vid. What would be the signs that a timing belt needs replacing?
Its usually best to change it on an interval instead of waiting for signs to develop, but the tensioners can wear out causing odd screechy or scraping sounds, the water pump can either its propellors break up, or its bearings can wear out and it makes similar noises. But its usually best to change the belt at the recommended interval, if buying a used car with a patchy service history and no evidence the belt has been changed its usually good to have it done just to be sure.
Just done this. Was not hard with help from this video. Hardest part is tge tensioner.you must get thiis part right. I would advise checking the tention a month after install to make sure tensioner is still working ok also i tightened the tensioner nur right up quite hard i think its meant to be 50nm
The spring-loaded tensioners are handy as it takes the worries away about whether or not the correct tension is set. Unfortunately with the manually adjusted type they can be set by feel but you need to know how the belt should feel, a basic belt tension gauge is good for reassurance that the tensioner is set correctly.
Cracking video, wish all how to videos were this detailed!
Super video, Thanks for posting this!
Hello! Do you have any idea if changing the timing belt can cause an irregular misfire but no taping or other mechanical noises? I've just changed the timing belt on my Dacia with a D4F-732 engine (same as 722 but updated for Euro 5) without locking the crankshaft and I accidentally dropped the bottom sprocket when removing the old belt. After putting it back on the crankshaft it was aligned fine with the marks on the engine, so I don't think it moved. I presume the sprocket can't move indepently of the crankshaft. Anyhow, I'll change the sparkplugs and the leads and see if it fixes something but it would be nice to have your input on this. Thanks!
Never mind, it was just a faulty spark plug. I changed it and it runs like a clock!
So I did the timing belt after previous one snapped, now I start it but its running very rough! how do I know if the roughness is down to bad timing or because of bent valves?
+pierrelarouge A compression and leak down test might be good to identify a bent valve. Also check your alignment marks, if everything is still in line at TDC but the roughness remains then there is a good chance the valves are causing the problem
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Late update but it was the valves, replaced the bent ones and been running nice ever since, was pretty big job though for someone who never worked on cars before, your video saved me £100's of pounds.
Hi there... I am about to do the timing on my 2003 D4F Kangoo this weekend... I just watched your video - it is great - but wanted to ask you if it's not better to remove the timing pin (the drill bit) before you rotate the tensioner anti-clockwise? Then you rotate the crank 6 times, insert the timing pin again, recheck timing and again remove the timing pin as you rotate the tensioner clockwise this time for the final adjustment - until pointer is in center position?
That sounds ok, as long as everything lines up after turning the engine over by hand a few times it should be ok.
Which year is this car and where it has air commpressor...it should be above altenator right?
This was a 2002 car, it was a dynamique which did not come with air conditioning. I have the same video for a mk3 clio D4F that did have air conditioning.
You dont need to disconnect anything from the pump just perhaps move it out of the road at times.
I have strange noise after the timing belt change (from that area).. the tensior is in corect place. Which kit do you use in this video? INA, Gates, conti? Thanks
Hi, the tensioner, water pump and idler wheels shouldn't have any grumbling noises when rotated by hand, that unfortunately is something that can only really be checked with the belt off. I used a Gates kit here.
peugeotCitroen2CV If the top camshaft sprocket was misaligned with the belt by just 1 tooth, would it cause the car to misfire slightly or would it run absolutely terrible?
I have a slight misfire after re assembling the timing belt that i never had before, its not really bad just like e tremor and judder now and again, any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
In some cases you might get a bit of a misfire if its out of time, if its out of time typically it will run badly and wont be able to rev too high. If you never had the misfire before the work was done then it could be out of time, when tightening up the new belt its very easy to slip a tooth, its why its important to turn the engine manually by hand a good few times to make sure the alignment marks for both the camshaft and crankshaft line up
Nice video.Does this engine have EGR system?
Is it recommended or can I directly set the correct tension at first tighting without the 6 turns, please? Thanks.
Set the tension first, then turn the engine over by hand a few times to check the pistons and valves dont hit, double check the tensioner make sure it is still pointing at the correct spot. You should be good to go from there.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Thanks mate.
Great video mate. I'm contemplating changing my girlfriends belt shortly. I've changed everything on a car except a timing belt. I usually avoid.
Any particular flywheel locking tools that are recommended?
Cheers
Philip Cliff Its not a particularly hard job to do, as timing belts go this is a good one to start with. No i didnt use any special tools a cheap set of lidl drill bits and a few old nuts and bolts are more than enough to do the locking job.
hey nice video, does the camshaft have to be locked? before taking belt off?
You can just mark the position of the camshaft against the cover behind the camshaft sprocket with some marker or tipex but i prefer locking it into place for the peace of mind
Great video :) How much time did it take you to change the belt?
three hours dont rush it for any reason. i do it over a couple of half days so im in no rush at all
Can I replace just the water pump? Belts and pulleys are fine but I have a small leak?
Northing to stop them being reused, in general it just makes sense to change the other parts when in there to save the bother of having to do it again.
Great video.
Is this the same for a 2001 scenic?
Tip: insert 5. gear. A second person press the brake pedal. The left tire is on the ground. Now you can easy remove the bolt...
It works but needs a second person, its hard to beat a good impact wrench for that bolt
Can't wait to see it
can i remove plastic cover without taking crankshaft pulley off ? i just want to inspect my belt. also how do you tension the alternator belt up ? thanks :)
The lower cover goes around the crankshaft pulley, so it has to come off first.
I have another video on the alternator of these clios from what i recall its tightened with a nut, a pry bar sets the tension on the alternator then tighten up the nut.
Hello how place pcv valve in renault 1.2 d4f
Hi there. I know this has got nothing to do with this video in particular. But I watched your videos to fix my kangoo with same engine. I have a problem with my steering wheel that gets stiff only when engine warms up. Any Idea of what could be the cause of that issue? Thanks
Hi there,
What type of steering does your kangoo have, these clios have an electric steering rack, not sure if the kangoo uses it or a hydraulic setup. If its electric then there could be something going on with the connections going to the motor.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV It's got a steering fluid reservoir, therefore my guess is that it's an hydraulic setup. Thanks for your reply
@@antoniocerbone802 Ah its not an electric column like the clio, might not be as hard to fix. Its worth checking to see where the pump is, its either a hydraulic pump driven by the engine in which case check the belt that it is not slipping. If the pump is electric then its contacts may need checked.
Thanks for this took me an entire day but I did get there off the back of this video! My heater has now stopped blowing can anyone advise what I'm likely to have knocked? Thank you.
If you did the water pump then its likely the cooling system will need to be bled to get rid of any trapped air in the system
Thanks
i have the mk3 2008 with the DF4740 engine, do you know if the procedure is the same as your demonstration.
I have never worked on a MK3 so cant say with any certainty.
Thanks buddy but have you done a tappet adjustment video, I am struggling to ID which engine I have in a 16v 2002.
Hi, no it was not something i ever did on a clio.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Thanks anyway checked mine now and amazingly they were all even across each rocker and well in tolerances. My engine was set to the tighter figures, grooves in cam blah blah.....;-)
Good video, does this apply for the tce engine as well?
The TCE 1.2 is basically the D4F engine just extra piping for the turbo. It should be fairly similar but i have never done the job on the TCE engine to be able to say its the exact same process.
The parts here cost me about £80 and i was working at this for about a day, i think you could spend about £100 in labour costs, although this is just a guess
a garage will charge 120 for this labour of 3 hrs
CAN YOU OVER OR UNDER TIGHT THE TENSIONER??? HOW TO KNOW IF IT'S RIGHTLY TIGHTEN?
Feel the old belt before you take it off to get an idea of how tight it should feel, in paticular twist it to see how much it can twist by.
The tensioner itself was turned so that the pointer on it is in the correct position. The instructions that come with it should illustrate this.
Hey bro, is this engine the same one for the Renault Symbol 2007???
PD: Nice Job, excellent video!
+JulianJEGG
From wikipedia it says the Symbol has the D4F engine, which is what i am working on here in this video.
We dont have the symbol here in the UK and ireland, although i have seen a few imported thalias before which are booted clios.
ola amigo tenho um 206 1.0 16v esse e o mesmo motor d4d
Freaking awesome video. Thanks a lot !
Hi what size belt did you get as there is 2 different one listed at eurocarparts
Look at the last 3 numbers on engine, 708 704,,,, or DF7 800 on the twingo
I HAVE CLIO 1.4 2008 PRESENT KM 110000.MY CAR ALSO TIMING BELT????
HOW IS THE REPLACEMENT PERIOD OF TIMING BELT & HAVE ANY OTHER PARTS NEED TO REPLACE WITH TIMING BELT (TENSSIONER , WATER PUMP...)
LOUD NOISES SHOUTING LOUDLY, CAPS LOCK HAS AN OFF MODE
Only joking haha.
Ah your best bet is get a gates kit with the belt tensioners, idlers and water pump. Regarding the interval i cant remember google will help, but if its a used purchase with limited history your best bet is to change the belt just as preventative maintenance
What is the interval for the timing belt replacement on this engine?
70,000 miles or 5 years. Whatever one of the two comes first, the 5 years is the bit some forget, the rubber degrades so even if the car has done relatively few miles it is still worthwhile changing the belt.
My clio has passed the 74.000 mile mark (119.000 KM).
I`m not sure whether to replace it or waiting for the whole car to die.
If the belt snaps then the bill will be much bigger than changing just a belt now, my clio still fetched £800 even with the tatty bodywork, and it was on 71k miles, there should be plenty of life left in it yet.
thanks, i guess all garagist put a thumb down because they don t want u to do it yourself
i got quoted nearly £400 for this so i watched this video and did it myself ! ended up costing me £63.80 and a day and a half of my time ! well happy thanks for the video !!
11.11 with a few hundred worth of tools and equipment that most people don’t have
Hi, start by saying all your tutorials are very well done. I have a 2003 1.4 Clio. I have an oil leak and coming from timing side of engine. Ive seen on forums that its common for oil seal to fail and in your video it shows how to strip down for belt change, if I remove the bottom crank pully does it have to be put back in exact place to keep timing? I will mark it with pen to make sure or would you suggest different. Ive done a belt change before but not the seal. Thanks very much. Mark.
The bottom timing sprocket has to come off, but where it attaches there should be a notch or woodruff key (a square bit of metal) where the sprocket lines up with the crankshaft, it can only go in one way. Then once its back on its the same process for putting back a belt on.
Take a look at my channel, ive done a timing belt on a 406, the crankshaft oil seal had to be changed and the process should be fairly similar to the clios.
Thanks so much for information. I've since found out it's not coming from oil seal and it is coming from head gasket. So going to have to go to garage as it's a bit much for me to do haha. Thanks again for reply. Much appreciate your efforts.
Ah yes they can leak oil through the head gasket when it goes. Shouldn't actually be too hard to do a HG diy but at the same time a good garage can probably do the work a lot quicker with less fuss.
+peugeotCitroen2CV yes they can have the trouble of doing it for me. well with every penny of less hassle for me. would you recommend getting anything else done while it's being replaced?
Funny ive just bought my grandparents a saxo which has needed a head gasket (i should have spotted it but bought the car) Its been a bit time consuming trying to get it fixed myself, getting the head skimmed is worth it for the peace of mind, have them check the valve stem seals, on the saxo i changed a steering rack gater when the head was off it improved access, cant think of anything on the clio.
muchas gracias por el video se lo agradesco!!
+Claudio A Gracias por el comentario
Hi ! Chaning the belt that way you have to separate the engine block from gearbox ? Please give me an answear. I really want to change the timing belt for my Clio 1 on my own. Thanks !
Hi, you dont need to seperate the engine and gearbox to do a timing belt. I certainly did not remove the gearbox in this video, the starter came off so that i could avail of the hole on the block that lines up with the hole on the flywheel. Its possible to just mark off the crankshaft sprocket with tippex or similar type marker but locking the flyhweel is a safer thing to do.
Thank you for reply , PeugeotCitroen2CV ! Now it makes sense that I have to block the flywheel by removing the starter. If I'm not too insistent I want to ask you how to block the camshaft while I'm changing the old belt. On DOHC camshafts I understood I can block the both camshafts by introducing something that stops them moving. But on single camshaft you have to get it on the sign only ?
@@sorinel97
On this engine i just lined up the arrow on the camshaft sprocket with the line on the timing belt cover.
Renault Twingo II 2007 1,2 16V is this same procedure?
I dont know for sure never worked on a twingo, according to wikipedia (not always 100% accurate) the 07 twingo got both the d7f 8v and d4f 16v engine, so if your twingos engine looks like this d4f id say the procedure should be mostly the same.
Thank you for making this video
Hi, when the timing belt is removed SHOULD the camshaft sprocket be very hard to turn over with a spanner on the end of it?
Is it normal for the springs to have a lot of tension as the camshaft rotates by hand?
I have rebuilt my head with new valves, seals, skimmed etc and set up the valve clearances perfect BUT it still seems very stiff to rotate around, with every complete revelotion ie from 12 oclock to 12 back again, it turns quite stiff when the tip of the camshaft is pointing up, then as it comes off the tip (rolls over) it goes slack again. It does this 4 times per every complete 360 degrees revolution.
I find it strange that the camshaft is quite stiff to rotate i would of imagined it to turn by hand easily, i can turn the crankshaft over by hand with the wheel. With the camshaft being so stiff to turn and resistance felt i imagine the belt must be under extreme pressure, is all this normal
I have never changed the head on a clio, the height of the work i have done on the clios engine was just change the timing belt, there was never any need to turn the camshaft on is own so i cant comment on how it should feel. I recall getting a similar question to yours within the past few weeks, i would recommend going over to renault forums to discuss this as its more likely you will be able to discuss this with someone who has rebuilt the head on this engine
peugeotCitroen2CV have a citreon c3 1.4hdi 16v 2002----bought it for daughter only 70 miles from it was motd-------problems minute mechanic(personal friend) put up on lift---brake discs and pads done front -drop link done-- shock o/s done--------pollen filter hadnt been changed in years but my question to you---its very smoky white smoke---------(back box and middle pipe peppered with small holes) getting it fixed next week-----expansion tank ----doesnt seem to be loosing antifreeze-no oil in it-oil its self looks normal -- no discoloration when changing it and filter ---car not overheating-----i bought--- hi gear cyclinder head repair @£15 and put in bottle-----still a bit smoky-------it seems to take fits of being overly smoky but hes not sure exactly what the cause is-any ideas from u would be appreciated? thanks
chevy790 If your getting white smoke, and loosing water id suspect the head gasket, them bottles of head gasket repair dont always work 100%, it might be worth getting a compression test done, or one of them tests to see if there are any combustion gases contaminating the coolant.
SP330Y I'm sure you've sorted this by now, but for others: The cam is hard to turn after a rebuild with all new components, but once it has run in and the oil is distributed it should be a bit easier. However, it will be tight, then slacken off as the lobes of the cam go past their zenith (in other words, the valves start to close). It will be normal for it to be like this 4 times in the 360 cycle.
Thanks,i have done it now,it started 1st time within less than 1 second,i didnt expect it to be tight but it was and it's fine, thanks.
You are the best!
can u advise please-----------my wife went to her renault clio 2002 only to discover that she had lost the key blade out of fob (dont know what happened) the fob still opened central locking-we have a spare key--just a manual one-no transponder on it-it opens car turns on lights on dash but wont turn on engine(took plastic handle of this key but it wont push into fob as its not actually a renault key blade)------i have a spare renault uncut blade i bought with a replacement key fob cover-------if i took manual key and uncut blade to locksmith and got it cut to match and then pushed it back into working fob will that solve problem------i cant seem to establish even on renault forum if the blade has to be ordered of renault as its actually chipped------- some say on forum-no chip in blade-some say there is and getting blade cut still wont start car---------car is 50 miles away and cant contact renault spares for assistance until tommorrow when they open but can get blade cut if not chippedtoday-----anyone or admin of page advise thanks-tried holding transponder on ignition barrel when trying manual key no luck
+chevy790
Hi, in general the metal part of the blade doesnt have the chip, thats in the plastic casing typically.
As a quick get you out of trouble fix try hold your old casing around the key barrel, as if its on the end of the blade, then turn the blade to start the car. With the casing near the barrel the immobilizer ring should pick up the chip and unlock letting you start the car.(I typed that before reading the bit where you mentioned you tried that, but you need to hold the casing really close up to the immobilizer barrel and do it before you turn on the electrics so as soon as it turns on it can search for and find the chip)
Then just get a locksmith to cut a key blade that will fit into the casing, or get a replacement blank casing with blank blade off ebay, swap over the button and immobilizer chip, get the blade cut and put it into the case.
no luck-i tried holding the fob as near as i could-car did turn over but would start-i had a renault clio blade i got with a new cover for transponder-took it to a key cutter-he immediatly said it would cost £30 to cut it against my manual one(took him all of 30 seconds) as it works up to point-got to car-key inserted but wouldnt turn at all-cant figure what was wrong unless it wasnt cut properly------car loaded on transporter took home-have found a barrell and keys for it for clio mk2 in shed id forgotton about-if i changed barrell would key in it start car?-----------i could use remote for cental locking and seperate key to start it-maybe its not as simple as doing this ?
+chevy790 Key blade cutting typically shouldnt cost more than a tenner, but i suppose it varies from place to place.
It seems like you have got a problem with the immobilizer, its easy enough to change the key barrel but getting the immobilizer to unlock is the tricky part. Inside your keyfob can you see if the immobilizer chip is there?
Its a bit of messing about in this video but at 0:10 you can see the immobilizer ring and chip im on about
ruclips.net/video/ENpz5nf0Mfo/видео.html
Its quite similar on the renault, take a look inside the casing just to be sure the chip hasnt fell out.
Hi, where did you jack up the engine from, the sump??
Lewis Hall
Yes i used the sump, just make sure your jack has a good wide base to distribute the force or set a piece of wood between the jack and sump
@@peugeotCitroen2CV cheers thankyou! Enjoying your vids
Can anyone recommend a brand for the belt/tensioner/pump kit? Inclined to avoid ECPs cheapest. But which are the trusted brands?
Gates are a good brand, i typically would buy their kits albeit from a local motor factors rather than ECP.
peugeotCitroen2CV Thanks for the reply. I think I’ll try gates then.