I’ve e said it once and I’ll say it again and I’ll say it again in the future. Thank you for taking you’re time to make these videos. Hands down THE BEST how to videos for miniatures. Paint on brother!!!
I know I'm a little late to this party but these old videos of yours have completely demystified the concept of glazing and making glazes and for that I cannot thank you enough. Other painting speak as though they are wielding alien technologies and ancient magics, which was one of the factors that kept me from taking up the hobby for years.
I must have re-watched this episode at least five or six times at least, the sheer amount of information contained within is astonishing. Thank you so much!
Excellent, I revisited all of these topics additional times, you may want to check those out as well as I deep dive on each of these topics in further details with additional tips.
love the loaded brush technique ben komets is indeed a god, its good to see a mortal man showing it though makes it seem like i could have a go at it so thanks
It really is just a matter of practice to be useful. I have a long (LONG) way to go to be anywhere in Ben's league, but it's something I use all the time and I am glad you want to give it a try, you can do it. :)
Amazing vid, thank you. So is there a difference for when you should use Thinner Medium vs Glazing Medium? I think that is one part that is still really confusing to me (even after watching your excellent vid on the additives).
In general, there really isn't much difference. The glaze medium has some additional flow improver and addititives. Thinner medium is basically just medium. IN the end, both will work pretty similar to each other to be honest.
+Victor Ques (Neojarlaxe) There are certain areas it can be really good on, especially like well defined muscles (the corner of like a Stormcast chest plate comes to mind). It's tough to do and one thing I am not sure if I emphasized is that the white (or highlight color) should be thicker - it will be thinned by the thinner paint in the brush already.
So I'm doing a sword from the new Primaris Librarian which has a pattern protruding from the sides of the blade which renders the surface not flat. I feel as though glazes would be best for blending a blade's colours together but this doesn't seem possible on the surface of this particular blade. What would you advise?
I think this is the lightning crackle blade you are referencing. So here would be how I would tackle it. I would still use glazes and run either a 1-1 alternate or a dark-light up the whole blade (i.e. dark around the lightning and light at the top). Then at the end, you need a razor sharp brush to go in and trace the lightning. Just make sure you are wicking the excess paint off your brush with the glazes and you should be able to avoid pooling. It's a little tougher, and you will need to be precise in that last step, but you can do it.
Vince Venturella Hey there, thank you for your prompt reply. At the moment I'm trying to get my head round glazes as before I was used to doing the traditional GW method of shades and highlights. I want to graduate from that method so to speak. The main issue I have at the moment is my glazes pooling at the end of my brush stroke and leaving the pigment in areas I do not wish it to. As in, when attempting to create a simple blend from dark blue to light blue on an ultramarine's shoulder pad, I don't know where to drag the pigment to, if that makes sense. This results in quite patchy looking blends which is obviously not my goal.
Am I right in stating the following about the various techniques or am I wrong ? anyone please correct me if I am wrong. 1. Layering is a painting process whereby we apply lighter painted highlights on top of darker already dried base paint layers. (always lighter paint on top of darker dried paint). 2. Glazing is a painting process whereby we apply darker painted layers which are very thinned down onto already dried lighter paint layers (always darker on top of lighter). 3. Feathering (or dry blending) is a process whereby we have a dried base paint layer and we attempt to create a gradual colour transition of the paint we are applying to the dry base paint. The paint we are are applying has a thick starting point and then with a damp brush (damp with only water no paint) we then gradually spread the paint from it's starting point edge across the surface of the dried paint. The dried base paint may be darker than the paint we are applying for the feathering or vice-versa (I'm saying this because miiniwargaming guy from another said so ruclips.net/video/V8rXOl_m8ew/видео.html ). 4. Wet blending which is perhaps the most advanced technique has the aim of (like feathering) to create a gradual colour transition but unlike feathering we are spreading WET paint from darker to lighter paint (and vice-vera), such that ALL paint we are applying and mixing is wet throughout the process at all times and there maybe two or more lighter/darker paints used in the transition process (often wet paints with intermediate light/darkness are used in this process. Often a liquid retardant is used on the paints we are applying in order to keep the paints wet as we blend them into each other.
Close but not exact. One #1 and #2, you don't need to have lighter or darker. We tend to use lighter layers (say the GW method) and we tend to glaze darker shadows, but you can do either technique in either direction. Your next two are basically correct, though there are also more and wet blending I wouldn't call the most advanced technique. Loaded brush is likely the trickiest actual technique to learn. In the end, it's about using all of these things in harmony at at the right times with the right types of paint.
I followed your tutorial on transferring Citadel paints into dropper bottles. In order to get it thin enough to transfer I used thinner medium + water. I also started using an Everlasting palette from Red Grass. I tried a very small attempt at two brush blending by doing a few drops of evil sunz scarlet on my model and I feel like the paint dries as soon as I put it on my model. I didn't thin the paint at all other than putting it on the wet palette + what was already thinned by transferring. Any recommendations?
Chances are it might be too thin. Here is what I would try. Try it with either a citadel base paint, a vallejo model color, or something thick. Alternatively, you could try getting some retarder medium, dipping your brush in that and wiping it off and then going into the paint, even that little retarder might extend the drying time some.
Correct, in general, you want a thinner paint in the belly of your brush and a slightly thicker paint on the very tip. You can control the speed of the blend by varying the two densities.
Hi, I recently discovered your channel. Great work btw, loved your videos. Your brush looks amazing btw, the length, tip etc. which brand do you use and what's the size of it (in this video) I'm planning to replace my citadel brushes.
Winsor & Newton Series 7 - this was a size 1, I like both the 1 and the 0. You can get them off amazon at a fairly reasonable cost ($10-16) and they will last for years if properly cared for.
Not a great deal. They are both bonding agents. I understand the glaze medium to have additional additives to increase the flow and further thin the paint. I recorded several additional videos on all of these topics, I dive into some alternate ways to do all of this throughout those vids. Hope that helps.
great video, thank you very much for doing it. I certainly learnt alot! Please could you go through the wet pallet thingy you are using? I have no knowledge or experience of this.
+thomas taylor You want this video here - ruclips.net/video/Uv_u5r-XyFY/видео.html - I have since actually bought a palette, they are pretty cheap - www.amazon.com/Sta-Wet-Palette-Keeps-Paints-Airtight/dp/B000C18GTE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463956089&sr=8-1&keywords=wet+palette
did you know that you can make a paint viscosity meter that lets you get your paint to the same viscosity every time, it works with any type of paint...it is a simple tool to make and improves your skills with brushes as its the same viscosity all the time.....
Yes, Ben Komets had a nice packet you could get and I have seen some others. I usually just use the back of my hand/thumb as that have enough different colors of paint I can test quickly ;)
I think were at cross swords here..lol.. (its a scots sayin were talking of two different subjects) ..ive never seen one to buy so ive made my own, maybe they can be purchased , ive made mine around 20 years ago , the previous version I had was my fathers as he was a script liner for a coachworks, sign writing trucks , buses etc before sticky graphics were the norm, he was an artist of all sorts and very good with it, my wayward son broke it when he was a rugrat the original meter, its a frame of glass with a topless frame set at 60% with horizontal increments of one half inches on the reverse side and A4 sheet of glass and use a No 2 brush fully dipped in the paint and stroked across the top of the glass and let it run , where it stops is the measurement , just repeat till you get what you like and use it as a guide, it actually does a good job....
We are indeed, I had never heard of what you are describing, but that sounds super cool. Sounds like something that could certainly be made from scratch and would be very useful.
Hey Jim! really interested in what you're taling about there, but i can't quite follow your description of it. Could you upload some pictures and post them here? Or is there some article which you could reference? Greetings from germany, cheers!
I have to say, your channel I think is the absolute best painting resource on youtube. Love your videos! I recommend them to everyone!
Thank you, that is very much appreciated.
I’ve e said it once and I’ll say it again and I’ll say it again in the future. Thank you for taking you’re time to make these videos. Hands down THE BEST how to videos for miniatures. Paint on brother!!!
Thank you, that is very much appreciated.
What a brilliant your channel is! Just found it and so excited to see all your tutorials! Thanks a lot!
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed this VERY old video, I promise they get better as you go through the list and happy to have you along on teh hobby journey.
I know I'm a little late to this party but these old videos of yours have completely demystified the concept of glazing and making glazes and for that I cannot thank you enough. Other painting speak as though they are wielding alien technologies and ancient magics, which was one of the factors that kept me from taking up the hobby for years.
Glad you like them!
I must have re-watched this episode at least five or six times at least, the sheer amount of information contained within is astonishing. Thank you so much!
Excellent, I revisited all of these topics additional times, you may want to check those out as well as I deep dive on each of these topics in further details with additional tips.
Truly one of the best videos of this kind I've seen so far.
Thank you, happy to help as always.
love the loaded brush technique ben komets is indeed a god, its good to see a mortal man showing it though makes it seem like i could have a go at it so thanks
It really is just a matter of practice to be useful. I have a long (LONG) way to go to be anywhere in Ben's league, but it's something I use all the time and I am glad you want to give it a try, you can do it. :)
Thanks so much for taking the time to make this video. Helped me immensely
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
Great tips. Really explained it in an easy to understand way. Cheers
Awesome, happy to hear it was helpful!
Loved this vid, it’ll help me get to the next level of painting my thousand sons
Awesome, happy to help as always.
Why do I feel like a Padawan Learner? Very nice detail, hope I get to this level one day.
We are all at our own point on our own hobby journey my friend. I feel like that every day too. :)
Awesome, added to favourites for future reference :D
+IDICBeer Thank you sir, glad to here it was helpful :)
Amazing vid, thank you. So is there a difference for when you should use Thinner Medium vs Glazing Medium? I think that is one part that is still really confusing to me (even after watching your excellent vid on the additives).
In general, there really isn't much difference. The glaze medium has some additional flow improver and addititives. Thinner medium is basically just medium. IN the end, both will work pretty similar to each other to be honest.
@@VinceVenturella makes sense, thanks!
Nice cheating video, normally I use the wet blending with one brush. I need to start practicing the loaded brush.
+Victor Ques (Neojarlaxe) There are certain areas it can be really good on, especially like well defined muscles (the corner of like a Stormcast chest plate comes to mind). It's tough to do and one thing I am not sure if I emphasized is that the white (or highlight color) should be thicker - it will be thinned by the thinner paint in the brush already.
So I'm doing a sword from the new Primaris Librarian which has a pattern protruding from the sides of the blade which renders the surface not flat. I feel as though glazes would be best for blending a blade's colours together but this doesn't seem possible on the surface of this particular blade. What would you advise?
I think this is the lightning crackle blade you are referencing. So here would be how I would tackle it. I would still use glazes and run either a 1-1 alternate or a dark-light up the whole blade (i.e. dark around the lightning and light at the top). Then at the end, you need a razor sharp brush to go in and trace the lightning. Just make sure you are wicking the excess paint off your brush with the glazes and you should be able to avoid pooling. It's a little tougher, and you will need to be precise in that last step, but you can do it.
Vince Venturella Hey there, thank you for your prompt reply. At the moment I'm trying to get my head round glazes as before I was used to doing the traditional GW method of shades and highlights. I want to graduate from that method so to speak. The main issue I have at the moment is my glazes pooling at the end of my brush stroke and leaving the pigment in areas I do not wish it to. As in, when attempting to create a simple blend from dark blue to light blue on an ultramarine's shoulder pad, I don't know where to drag the pigment to, if that makes sense. This results in quite patchy looking blends which is obviously not my goal.
Am I right in stating the following about the various techniques or am I wrong ? anyone please correct me if I am wrong.
1. Layering is a painting process whereby we apply lighter painted highlights on top of darker already dried base paint layers. (always lighter paint on top of darker dried paint).
2. Glazing is a painting process whereby we apply darker painted layers which are very thinned down onto already dried lighter paint layers (always darker on top of lighter).
3. Feathering (or dry blending) is a process whereby we have a dried base paint layer and we attempt to create a gradual colour transition of the paint we are applying to the dry base paint. The paint we are are applying has a thick starting point and then with a damp brush (damp with only water no paint) we then gradually spread the paint from it's starting point edge across the surface of the dried paint. The dried base paint may be darker than the paint we are applying for the feathering or vice-versa (I'm saying this because miiniwargaming guy from another said so ruclips.net/video/V8rXOl_m8ew/видео.html ).
4. Wet blending which is perhaps the most advanced technique has the aim of (like feathering) to create a gradual colour transition but unlike feathering we are spreading WET paint from darker to lighter paint (and vice-vera), such that ALL paint we are applying and mixing is wet throughout the process at all times and there maybe two or more lighter/darker paints used in the transition process (often wet paints with intermediate light/darkness are used in this process. Often a liquid retardant is used on the paints we are applying in order to keep the paints wet as we blend them into each other.
Close but not exact.
One #1 and #2, you don't need to have lighter or darker. We tend to use lighter layers (say the GW method) and we tend to glaze darker shadows, but you can do either technique in either direction.
Your next two are basically correct, though there are also more and wet blending I wouldn't call the most advanced technique. Loaded brush is likely the trickiest actual technique to learn. In the end, it's about using all of these things in harmony at at the right times with the right types of paint.
I followed your tutorial on transferring Citadel paints into dropper bottles. In order to get it thin enough to transfer I used thinner medium + water. I also started using an Everlasting palette from Red Grass. I tried a very small attempt at two brush blending by doing a few drops of evil sunz scarlet on my model and I feel like the paint dries as soon as I put it on my model. I didn't thin the paint at all other than putting it on the wet palette + what was already thinned by transferring. Any recommendations?
Chances are it might be too thin. Here is what I would try. Try it with either a citadel base paint, a vallejo model color, or something thick. Alternatively, you could try getting some retarder medium, dipping your brush in that and wiping it off and then going into the paint, even that little retarder might extend the drying time some.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks I'll give it a shot. Do you normally use retarder that way instead of mixing it into the paint?
@@travisellis9230 yep
I noticed the loaded brush work very well with the white ben use (schmincke) or any heavy density paint.
Correct, in general, you want a thinner paint in the belly of your brush and a slightly thicker paint on the very tip. You can control the speed of the blend by varying the two densities.
Hi, I recently discovered your channel. Great work btw, loved your videos.
Your brush looks amazing btw, the length, tip etc. which brand do you use and what's the size of it (in this video) I'm planning to replace my citadel brushes.
Winsor & Newton Series 7 - this was a size 1, I like both the 1 and the 0. You can get them off amazon at a fairly reasonable cost ($10-16) and they will last for years if properly cared for.
Thank you!
I see you use the thinner medium and the glaze medium, what is the difference between the two?
Not a great deal. They are both bonding agents. I understand the glaze medium to have additional additives to increase the flow and further thin the paint. I recorded several additional videos on all of these topics, I dive into some alternate ways to do all of this throughout those vids. Hope that helps.
great video, thank you very much for doing it. I certainly learnt alot! Please could you go through the wet pallet thingy you are using? I have no knowledge or experience of this.
+thomas taylor You want this video here - ruclips.net/video/Uv_u5r-XyFY/видео.html - I have since actually bought a palette, they are pretty cheap - www.amazon.com/Sta-Wet-Palette-Keeps-Paints-Airtight/dp/B000C18GTE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463956089&sr=8-1&keywords=wet+palette
+Vince Venturella Thank you very much.
thanks for the tips man awesome
+Leon Suckling Glad to help and glad it was enjoyed!
did you know that you can make a paint viscosity meter that lets you get your paint to the same viscosity every time, it works with any type of paint...it is a simple tool to make and improves your skills with brushes as its the same viscosity all the time.....
Yes, Ben Komets had a nice packet you could get and I have seen some others. I usually just use the back of my hand/thumb as that have enough different colors of paint I can test quickly ;)
I think were at cross swords here..lol.. (its a scots sayin were talking of two different subjects) ..ive never seen one to buy so ive made my own, maybe they can be purchased , ive made mine around 20 years ago , the previous version I had was my fathers as he was a script liner for a coachworks, sign writing trucks , buses etc before sticky graphics were the norm, he was an artist of all sorts and very good with it, my wayward son broke it when he was a rugrat the original meter, its a frame of glass with a topless frame set at 60% with horizontal increments of one half inches on the reverse side and A4 sheet of glass and use a No 2 brush fully dipped in the paint and stroked across the top of the glass and let it run , where it stops is the measurement , just repeat till you get what you like and use it as a guide, it actually does a good job....
We are indeed, I had never heard of what you are describing, but that sounds super cool. Sounds like something that could certainly be made from scratch and would be very useful.
Hey Jim! really interested in what you're taling about there, but i can't quite follow your description of it. Could you upload some pictures and post them here? Or is there some article which you could reference?
Greetings from germany, cheers!
hey geld, at work just now , will get back to you somepoint today.....jim
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHH
Hopefully that is a good yell. :)