I love a good convex edge , its the best grind in my opinion. I reprofiled my Tops Tanimboca Puukko and put a convex on it now its an amzing blade. Thats a nice looking blade...I cant stand sweeping points for that very reason.
Your convex edges seem to make much better cutters. I have several scandi grind knives for work and I gave them convex grinds about two thirds up the blade and they cut much better. I'll have to do this with more of my knives.
@@darylbrenton4839 yeah its interesting how it works. I always picture the bow of a boat “cutting” through the water. That shape displaces the water in such a way that allows the ship to travel through the water with the least resistance. The same convex shape is apparent in animals that have to resist currents also, like muscles or clams. In fact I believe the word for convex grind in Japanese is “hamagari” which is the word for clam shell…..think I head Lynn Thompson say that on one of his old Proof videos like back in ‘08. Anyway I believe it’s the best shape for cutting through a material with minimal resistance, as the material is directed away from the blade rather than rubbing up against the side of the blade. Super cool you converted your scandis , what did you use to do that? Thanks for the interaction and the comments I appreciate it!
@@MarsFireForge I used an oval shaped diamond sharpener, as these were only Bahco utility knives. 15 minutes of reshaping doubled the cutting ability and cut the resistance on the blade by about 2/3rds by feel. I use a small, flat diamond sharpener to touch them up. Thanks for the video on sharpening convex grinds, by the way. Your method was simpler and quicker than the way I was doing it. I was brainwashed by all of those videos on how to properly sharpen a knife, more complicated = better. I haven't seen a convex grind on any commercial boning knives. It should be better than the full flat grind, don't you think? It makes me smile when you say 'way back in '08'. I was 44 years old then. I suspect that will now make me feel old.
@@darylbrenton4839 I’m glad the method I use was helpful! People make a big deal about using the sandpaper and a soft backer, and I do think that works really well (it’s how I put the initial edge on my blades) BUT its certainly not the only way to do it. In college I used to sharpen knives by sitting backward on the toilet and using the lid the covers the water tank because it’s pure ceramic! Yes I think convex could be used more widely, even in boning knives. People seem to think of them as just good for the survival type knives, but they have such more variety than that. Yeah time goes by faster and faster, soon the 1900’s is going to seem like the 1800’s
@@MarsFireForge Technology moves fast as well. My grandfather went from horse and cart, to motorcars, saw the rise of commercial airlines, TV, men walking on the moon, and computers. I wonder what he would have thought of artificial intelligence.
@@darylbrenton4839 that is a big jump in tech. When I’m older and say I lived my childhood without a cell phone or high speed internet no one will believe me.
@@ToddWilson-c2h www.buckleguy.com/wickett-craig-carving-leather-panels-natural-multiple-sizes-weights/?sku=WC-CRP12X12-45-NAT&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsPCY2-uUhwMVSDUIBR3e5wBqEAQYBCABEgL-SfD_BwE Hey Todd, that is a place to start but you can find cheaper I’m sure. You just want to make sure it’s veg tanned and it doesn’t necessarily have to be 8oz it could be less. You can search for leather “off cuts” and get discounted remnants of leather also. A strop is a great idea, a long clear section of leather with a little mother’s mag polish in the fibers will make your knife MEGA sharp.
@@MarsFireForge I have heard one knifemaker say that he buys leather cut for belts 2 inches wide. He can cut several pieces which he glues to wood for strops. Cheap, and the size he prefers.
I love a good convex edge , its the best grind in my opinion. I reprofiled my Tops Tanimboca Puukko and put a convex on it now its an amzing blade.
Thats a nice looking blade...I cant stand sweeping points for that very reason.
@@airiksknifereviews9548 that’s awesome you augmented the grind on your knives, what did you use to do that? Thanks for the comment!
Your convex edges seem to make much better cutters. I have several scandi grind knives for work and I gave them convex grinds about two thirds up the blade and they cut much better. I'll have to do this with more of my knives.
@@darylbrenton4839 yeah its interesting how it works. I always picture the bow of a boat “cutting” through the water. That shape displaces the water in such a way that allows the ship to travel through the water with the least resistance. The same convex shape is apparent in animals that have to resist currents also, like muscles or clams. In fact I believe the word for convex grind in Japanese is “hamagari” which is the word for clam shell…..think I head Lynn Thompson say that on one of his old Proof videos like back in ‘08. Anyway I believe it’s the best shape for cutting through a material with minimal resistance, as the material is directed away from the blade rather than rubbing up against the side of the blade. Super cool you converted your scandis , what did you use to do that? Thanks for the interaction and the comments I appreciate it!
@@MarsFireForge I used an oval shaped diamond sharpener, as these were only Bahco utility knives. 15 minutes of reshaping doubled the cutting ability and cut the resistance on the blade by about 2/3rds by feel. I use a small, flat diamond sharpener to touch them up. Thanks for the video on sharpening convex grinds, by the way. Your method was simpler and quicker than the way I was doing it. I was brainwashed by all of those videos on how to properly sharpen a knife, more complicated = better.
I haven't seen a convex grind on any commercial boning knives. It should be better than the full flat grind, don't you think?
It makes me smile when you say 'way back in '08'. I was 44 years old then. I suspect that will now make me feel old.
@@darylbrenton4839 I’m glad the method I use was helpful! People make a big deal about using the sandpaper and a soft backer, and I do think that works really well (it’s how I put the initial edge on my blades) BUT its certainly not the only way to do it. In college I used to sharpen knives by sitting backward on the toilet and using the lid the covers the water tank because it’s pure ceramic! Yes I think convex could be used more widely, even in boning knives. People seem to think of them as just good for the survival type knives, but they have such more variety than that. Yeah time goes by faster and faster, soon the 1900’s is going to seem like the 1800’s
@@MarsFireForge Technology moves fast as well. My grandfather went from horse and cart, to motorcars, saw the rise of commercial airlines, TV, men walking on the moon, and computers. I wonder what he would have thought of artificial intelligence.
@@darylbrenton4839 that is a big jump in tech. When I’m older and say I lived my childhood without a cell phone or high speed internet no one will believe me.
Where is the best place to purchase 8oz leather? Looking to make a strop.
@@ToddWilson-c2h www.buckleguy.com/wickett-craig-carving-leather-panels-natural-multiple-sizes-weights/?sku=WC-CRP12X12-45-NAT&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsPCY2-uUhwMVSDUIBR3e5wBqEAQYBCABEgL-SfD_BwE
Hey Todd, that is a place to start but you can find cheaper I’m sure. You just want to make sure it’s veg tanned and it doesn’t necessarily have to be 8oz it could be less. You can search for leather “off cuts” and get discounted remnants of leather also. A strop is a great idea, a long clear section of leather with a little mother’s mag polish in the fibers will make your knife MEGA sharp.
@@MarsFireForge I have heard one knifemaker say that he buys leather cut for belts 2 inches wide. He can cut several pieces which he glues to wood for strops. Cheap, and the size he prefers.