I don't know the size offhand, I always use 3/4" minimum. Ya always need more space. If you're at the store buying parts grab a tape measure and measure what ya need.
Understand a long sweep 90 would be necessary for thick wires..but certainly times with small wires where a small elbow would work much easier in a small space. Also very limited in T type connections. As a diy, seem to run into many gotchas of things that are not available.
@@JC-pb4db But a fish tape doesn't do tight 90's. Pulling wires through tight 90's doesn't tend to work well. There's a fitting for nearly any situation. The other vid shows some of the other fittings that can be used like on the exterior wall of the building etc.
Depending on what you're running through there. Ideally 2" conduit for power is a good option for easy pulling. Otherwise 1 1/4" for low voltage normally will work well. Power needs to be a separate conduit than low voltage like internet. Most power singular stranded wire sold in home stores now is the proper type. But basically you're looking at THWN or could say like USE 2 on it. Basically rated for wet conditions. Consult your local electrical codes for requirements Many times Mobile Home Feeder, SE-R, or may be Service Cable, can be used and is cheaper. It's 2-2-2-4 Alum, has 3 main conductors and the ground all in a grey plastic insulation coating. Can always have larger wires than needed for a circuit. The ground is not used for a detached structure. It needs it's own 2 ground rods for best results. Consult your local electrical codes. Singular wires can't run through a normal wall, so using regular stranded wire in the conduit would require transitioning to something different or running conduit all the way through walls etc. Using the MH SE cable eliminates the connections since it's rated for nearly any conditions. Essentially you want to run a sub panel in the detached structure. Which will be 240v and then the panel separates to 120v circuits. Makes additions later very convenient too. If you're doing low voltage like network/internet it should be exterior rated or gel filled holds up the longest. Outdoor in ground runs for internet in the past has been cat 5/6 type cable. But due to grounding issues and static charges one should use fiber optic cable. It's frequently cheaper than copper and isn't hard to work with. Preterminated cables are available and can be longer since length isn't really an issue like with copper. Lot's of YT vids of what to get and how to do it. FS dot com is a very reputable fiber equpipment seller in the US and good prices. Otherwise Monoprice dot com also If you've never worked with conduit before there's lot's of vids on tips and tricks like using a shop vac and pull rope with piece of rag or plastic bag attached to pull it through. Essentially the same principle bank driveup vacuum tubes work. Then attach wire and pull through.
Yes, trenching is useful but not always the right option depending on the situation. This is rated for outdoor exposure. It can also rather easily be painted to blend into the wall/house color. Helps to scuff surface slightly so it's not shiny then paint before installation for ease. Just need to clean paint off any joint areas. Then touch up after completion. Also run larger than you think you need. Say 1" bare minimum for data and 1 1/2" for power. They need to be separate if you didn't know. Also helps to get a deburring tool (plumbing dept normally) and deburr the inside edge corner of each pipe section. Helps to smooth transition for easier wire pulling. Read some of the other comments for more tips
Yes, he was holding the slip joint upside down. There is no glue along the movable section -- it's sealed with n o-ring. It's relatively air & water tight, but you should mount it so that the larger diameter piece is on top so that water can't pool in the fitting. It would explain this in the manufacturer's instructions, which are always good to read, no matter how many youtube videos you watch.
Great video. What size pilot hole would be required for a 1/2 LB box?
I don't know the size offhand, I always use 3/4" minimum. Ya always need more space. If you're at the store buying parts grab a tape measure and measure what ya need.
Understand a long sweep 90 would be necessary for thick wires..but certainly times with small wires where a small elbow would work much easier in a small space. Also very limited in T type connections. As a diy, seem to run into many gotchas of things that are not available.
@@JC-pb4db But a fish tape doesn't do tight 90's. Pulling wires through tight 90's doesn't tend to work well. There's a fitting for nearly any situation. The other vid shows some of the other fittings that can be used like on the exterior wall of the building etc.
Great thank you, this had all the basic info I needed
@@Ramser03 awesome glad it helped you
you are the man!
AAAAAWE shucks, I'm blushing
What type of electrical wires would you used from the inside the house and thru the conduit to the other structure
Depending on what you're running through there. Ideally 2" conduit for power is a good option for easy pulling. Otherwise 1 1/4" for low voltage normally will work well. Power needs to be a separate conduit than low voltage like internet. Most power singular stranded wire sold in home stores now is the proper type. But basically you're looking at THWN or could say like USE 2 on it. Basically rated for wet conditions.
Consult your local electrical codes for requirements
Many times Mobile Home Feeder, SE-R, or may be Service Cable, can be used and is cheaper. It's 2-2-2-4 Alum, has 3 main conductors and the ground all in a grey plastic insulation coating. Can always have larger wires than needed for a circuit. The ground is not used for a detached structure. It needs it's own 2 ground rods for best results. Consult your local electrical codes. Singular wires can't run through a normal wall, so using regular stranded wire in the conduit would require transitioning to something different or running conduit all the way through walls etc. Using the MH SE cable eliminates the connections since it's rated for nearly any conditions.
Essentially you want to run a sub panel in the detached structure. Which will be 240v and then the panel separates to 120v circuits. Makes additions later very convenient too.
If you're doing low voltage like network/internet it should be exterior rated or gel filled holds up the longest. Outdoor in ground runs for internet in the past has been cat 5/6 type cable. But due to grounding issues and static charges one should use fiber optic cable. It's frequently cheaper than copper and isn't hard to work with. Preterminated cables are available and can be longer since length isn't really an issue like with copper. Lot's of YT vids of what to get and how to do it. FS dot com is a very reputable fiber equpipment seller in the US and good prices. Otherwise Monoprice dot com also
If you've never worked with conduit before there's lot's of vids on tips and tricks like using a shop vac and pull rope with piece of rag or plastic bag attached to pull it through. Essentially the same principle bank driveup vacuum tubes work. Then attach wire and pull through.
Very helpful, thank you!
You're welcome
If i didnt have access to dig a trench would i be able to run this along an extrior wall into a detached garage?
Yes, trenching is useful but not always the right option depending on the situation. This is rated for outdoor exposure. It can also rather easily be painted to blend into the wall/house color. Helps to scuff surface slightly so it's not shiny then paint before installation for ease. Just need to clean paint off any joint areas. Then touch up after completion.
Also run larger than you think you need. Say 1" bare minimum for data and 1 1/2" for power. They need to be separate if you didn't know.
Also helps to get a deburring tool (plumbing dept normally) and deburr the inside edge corner of each pipe section. Helps to smooth transition for easier wire pulling.
Read some of the other comments for more tips
Are you holding the slip fitting upside down? Seems like the larger OD section should be oriented above the smaller section to keep water out.
@@sagegriot2455 The fittings will only go one way to make this work. The glue will keep water out.
Yes, he was holding the slip joint upside down. There is no glue along the movable section -- it's sealed with n o-ring. It's relatively air & water tight, but you should mount it so that the larger diameter piece is on top so that water can't pool in the fitting. It would explain this in the manufacturer's instructions, which are always good to read, no matter how many youtube videos you watch.
No actually was holding it horizontal...but yes good orientation would be the larger portion on top to shed water
Thank you!
You're very welcome hope it helped clarify