By far the best part of this video is the ending comment... "Hmmm... more jigs...." I started my woodworking obsession in early 2021, and I feel all I have done is make jigs... I am just finally getting to the point that I have enough jigs to actually work on real projects in my garage.
I've been watching tapering jig builds by various RUclipsrs and the "fancy one" here was steps above some of the other designs I've watched. There are a few details that make this worth the extra effort, for example: the fence slot being in two sections. A long slot like some designs have really weaken the clamping power with all that flex. Even the commercial ones have that flaw and is why I am making me make my own. This is a great design and thank you for sharing.
I made the second one and love the way it works. I had purchased the Microjig Tapering Jig, and the first time I used it following instructions, the cutoff came fling back at me, and hit me square in the chest. So, I started looking on RUclips and ean across your design. I opted to build it and the very first time I used it, it worked like a dream. No fly backs or any other mishaps. That design has become my favorite and I use it whenever I make some legs for any project. Soooo, much easier to use and I'm not worried about being beaten to death from flying lumber. Thanks Brad.
Built the second one. Used my dado blades to make the slots instead of router and for the top bar I used a piece of t-track I had and made the two slots smaller on either end.
The simpler the better - great video. Occasionally I have had to do long tapered rips. One such case is the need to add jamb extensions to doors or windows (and sills for windows) with inconsistent depths (like needing to add 1-13/16" at one end and 2-3/8" at the other). A door jamb height is about 7 feet, but multiple ganged windows may have much longer top jambs and sills. Some years ago I fashioned an 8-ft. sled from birch ply, used a glued and screwed 3/4-in. strip of the same material for the miter slot, and as you show in your example (5:13) drilled to accommodate T-bolts for hold down clamps. I predrilled a series of patterned holes (about 30 or so) up and down the sled at varying distances from the edge similar to what you had done. In use, initially I'd measure off the cutoff edge and adjust the rip at top and bottom using a tape measure, for example, 1-13/16 in at one end, 2-3/8 in at the other. I found the setup process to be somewhat tedious, which could be further complicated if there was a slight crook in the board to be ripped as it is impossible to measure in the middle of a board. I solved this by inlaying sticky backed metal measuring tape approximately every ten inches over the length of the sled. I notched in 1/64" deep x 1/2" wide dados the width of the sled and set the series of measuring tapes in place, with zero at the edge to eight inches (the width of my sled). With this addition, set up is a breeze for any length of board I need to rip, even boards longer than 8 feet. Even boards with a crook can be flexed enough to make straight cuts.
"Don't look at nasty fences for the rest of your life" - this part was hilarious. I feel like you incorporated more shots of you speaking to the camera throughout the build process, I love this style. Thanks for the tips, Brad!
Thanks BradI like your style and commentary and woodworking skills and I sure appreciate you doing the video. I would go with the fancy one because that one would also make a straight edge for irregular wood pieces. Thank you blessings young man
Simple. I'm a novice to woodworking, and the simple one will meet my needs and skill set at this time. As I learn and improve, I can always reference this video to build the fancy one.
I built the fancy version this morning and it works beautifully on my contractor saw. I am using the rip fence as my reference without any problems. Thank you for the demo, it made a world of difference in the various steps in the construction.
Your option of just running the jig against the rip fence, instead of installing a mitre-slot runner, seems like a good idea. It's not obvious to me why the presenter (Brad?) used a runner for both jigs. Yes, there would be repeatability in locating the jig relative to the blade, but is that all?
Word of caution, that step at 8:54 (widening the thru slot) must be done in the order shown. I got it backwards and started with the fence further away, then moved it closer to me to widen the slot. When I started the widening cut, the wood was trapped between the bit and the fence, and since the bit was cutting on the backside, it threw my board hard to the left about 6 feet, and broke my 1/4" spiral bit! Good thing I was using push blocks!
Fancy jig is good for “jointing” if you don’t have one, but the simple one is quicker to make and you don’t need a router. Love the videos! Keep them coming.
Brad, these taper jigs coupled with a planner jig and you're golden! I'd go with the fancy one. My style is spend a little more time building or making things right on the front end to save time on the back end.
I happen to agree with Rolando here, I feel there is a bit more versatility in the fancy jig. A couple more clamps to hold it all together never hurts.
Simple jig for me. It looks accurate, repeatable without a huge effort or materials. I just bought some clamps for another jig I'm building, and the most economical buy was 4 when I only needed two. So I've got these two left over clamps that needed a purpose. I am making two end tables, so 8 tapered legs. That's just enough to justify the effort and time to make this simple jig, then zip through the leg construction with precision. Your video is perfect and gives me everything I need to get this project started. Thanks!
Hey Brad, Just finished the "simple" jig and a very please ! I actually built my hold down clamps from some Baltic birch I had extra. This jig now allows me to true up some cherry I have wanted to work with for a long time. Great plan and video! Keep up the great work! Many thanks
Thanks for the detailed video. I made the simple version about a year ago with the intent to make the fancy one later. The simple one works so well I haven’t bothered to improve it. I use it all the time to joint boards, in addition to the occasional tapering project. I used melamine for the base, which works well with the blue tape and CA glue technique.
I built one somewhat similar to your fancy version a couple months ago, and it has come in very handy for straight lining and tapering. Mine was almost 4' long and a bit wider though, and I added a few extra slots in the base piece to accommodate clamping shorter pieces of varying size. I also used four bolts and knobs instead of two because of the extra length and tendency for the top fence to lift/twist while clamping tight, and I skipped the runner and use the fence on my table saw instead...this allows me to also use the same jig clamped flat on a table for cutting slots and grooves etc in smaller parts with my plunge router too, and I just add a second top fence w/bolts/knobs when necessary, to allow me to do this. It works great and I'm so glad I didn't just build the simple version, because the extra versatility of the nicer one is well worth the extra time and work it took to make it! Thanks for all the great videos, I always enjoy watching your channel.
It'll be the "fancy one" here for ease of rapid reset for differing tapering angles. Will use the extra length to allow longer tapers and for making square joining edges on longer pieces of wood.
Definitely the second one. Absolutely worth the effort. thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe. I would like this video better if you would not rush so much. Slow down a bit to allow points to sink in a bit.🙂
I am a subscriber and really like your "style". All of your builds and jigs are very nicely done and well explained. I vote for "fancy" because I don't have a jointer. Thank you for sharing this.
I made the fancy one a few months ago and haven't been happy with the fence. It always bowed on one side with any clamping pressure. I think I'm going to try a new one with the center intact and see if that helps. Your videos have been very helpful to me!
@@Fixthisbuildthat On the fancy one, maybe make another half-length slot at the midpoint of the jig and drill a hole in the midpoint of the fence for another T bolt. No looking at nasty fences, especially in southern Colorado. Thumbs up to crush a troll, and a new subscriber, too.
Thanks Brad. Both are fairly easy to make. I will probably go with the simmer one first when I need it since I don’t do that many tapers. If I was making more, I would spend the extra time.
I am brand new to woodworking and I find your videos and podcast very informative and entertaining. I see the value of the fancy jig. More time and effort on the front end, but certainly worth it on the backend.
I love your videos, they are very informative and hilarious!! Oh and I like the fancy jig, oh so fancy. Thanks for all the great videos really appreciate all that goes into making one. Keep up the great work Brad!
The second one is the best. I have a generic version of that to get my straight edges since I don’t own a jointer and will now be making the 2nd to replace the generic one I have. Great video.
I built the fancy one a few months ago after I saw Tamar's video. I like your simple design though, and the tip about sizing the width of runner is a good one.
Great build! I love that you show and own up to the mistakes…you’re human like the rest of Us. It’s great cause you show how you address those mistakes and or how to fix them. Thanks again!
I made one like the fancy one like a year ago but I used MDF because I was in a hurry for a job that needs to be completed... it works just fine but I knew since the beginning that I should use plywood.
Both are great but I’ll be making the first one. I am in the process of building three dimensional five point stars and with ten pieces per star the angles must be precise and repeatable. Since this is really the only thing I need the jig for adjustability of it isn’t that crucial. Thanks for an awesome video.
I'm a pretty simple guy, but have to vote for "Fancy". I will probably use it far more as a straightening jig and need the width adjustment. Great video, as always.
I would build the more complex one if not just for the miter bar. Nothing worse than when your runner shrinks and you've got a nice bit of play in your sled. Great video, Brad - I'm a fellow Nashvillian!
The added functionality of using the second tapering jig as a straight line jig is appealing. I think the ability to use different hold downs in that case, such as might be used for highly irregular woods, e.g. part logs, etc. may be useful to consider. Also, when using it as a straight line jig, a useful way to set the fence for parallel is to set the top position based on your desired width (use a block to set this) and then using that same block of wood between the blade and fence, slide it up to the bottom position and then tighten it down. Now your fence is perfectly parallel to the blade and should ensure not only a straight line on the target but also a parallel cut like you would get using the tablesaw fence. Good video, Brad - thanks. Just say no to nasty fences, kiddies. :-)
Made a fancy one after watching Tamar on 3x3 Custom build hers. Didn't use the slot guide. Just run the straight edge of the platform along the table saw fence.
Can I cheat? I like the fancy one, but without the runner. There's many ways to skin a cat, but I like the additional flexibility of being able to move the fence further away for straight-lining wider boards. Thanks for the video!
Terrific video Brad! My philosophy is "Do It Right The First Time", or at least get close! Therefore, I will build the FANCY tapering jig. Thanks.............. :)
Definitely the fancy version. I want to make a jig for making lighthouses, which requires a 22.5 degree cut, along with a taper so the octagon tapers from a large base to a small diameter top for the light turret, and its base and rails.
FYI, if you do all of these steps in reverse you don't need the glue or the washers or anything. Just put the runner on first on a slightly oversized base board, then just cut the base board down to final width and it'll all be lined up automatically perfect. Then put in your holes for hold down clamps last and you don't have to worry about them interfering with the runner, since the runner is already there.
Keep em coming Brad. Love all your videos. I personally like the second jig better. To me it's well worth the extra time making it to save time using it over and over.
What is that green guide thing you are using at 4:07? (srry if that is a lame question I am a newby with wood working and just bought my first table saw lol)
Comment below which one you'd rather make!
SUBSCRIBE for more great videos! bit.ly/FTBT-youtube
By far the best part of this video is the ending comment... "Hmmm... more jigs...."
I started my woodworking obsession in early 2021, and I feel all I have done is make jigs... I am just finally getting to the point that I have enough jigs to actually work on real projects in my garage.
I've been watching tapering jig builds by various RUclipsrs and the "fancy one" here was steps above some of the other designs I've watched. There are a few details that make this worth the extra effort, for example: the fence slot being in two sections. A long slot like some designs have really weaken the clamping power with all that flex. Even the commercial ones have that flaw and is why I am making me make my own. This is a great design and thank you for sharing.
I made the second one and love the way it works. I had purchased the Microjig Tapering Jig, and the first time I used it following instructions, the cutoff came fling back at me, and hit me square in the chest. So, I started looking on RUclips and ean across your design. I opted to build it and the very first time I used it, it worked like a dream. No fly backs or any other mishaps. That design has become my favorite and I use it whenever I make some legs for any project. Soooo, much easier to use and I'm not worried about being beaten to death from flying lumber. Thanks Brad.
Glad it helped!
Built the second one. Used my dado blades to make the slots instead of router and for the top bar I used a piece of t-track I had and made the two slots smaller on either end.
The simpler the better - great video. Occasionally I have had to do long tapered rips. One such case is the need to add jamb extensions to doors or windows (and sills for windows) with inconsistent depths (like needing to add 1-13/16" at one end and 2-3/8" at the other). A door jamb height is about 7 feet, but multiple ganged windows may have much longer top jambs and sills. Some years ago I fashioned an 8-ft. sled from birch ply, used a glued and screwed 3/4-in. strip of the same material for the miter slot, and as you show in your example (5:13) drilled to accommodate T-bolts for hold down clamps. I predrilled a series of patterned holes (about 30 or so) up and down the sled at varying distances from the edge similar to what you had done.
In use, initially I'd measure off the cutoff edge and adjust the rip at top and bottom using a tape measure, for example, 1-13/16 in at one end, 2-3/8 in at the other. I found the setup process to be somewhat tedious, which could be further complicated if there was a slight crook in the board to be ripped as it is impossible to measure in the middle of a board. I solved this by inlaying sticky backed metal measuring tape approximately every ten inches over the length of the sled. I notched in 1/64" deep x 1/2" wide dados the width of the sled and set the series of measuring tapes in place, with zero at the edge to eight inches (the width of my sled). With this addition, set up is a breeze for any length of board I need to rip, even boards longer than 8 feet. Even boards with a crook can be flexed enough to make straight cuts.
Fancy is definitely the way to go if you taper wood often and your idea of routing 2 shorter slots rather than 1 full length worked out great!
"Don't look at nasty fences for the rest of your life" - this part was hilarious. I feel like you incorporated more shots of you speaking to the camera throughout the build process, I love this style. Thanks for the tips, Brad!
Thanks BradI like your style and commentary and woodworking skills and I sure appreciate you doing the video. I would go with the fancy one because that one would also make a straight edge for irregular wood pieces. Thank you blessings young man
Simple. I'm a novice to woodworking, and the simple one will meet my needs and skill set at this time. As I learn and improve, I can always reference this video to build the fancy one.
I built the fancy version this morning and it works beautifully on my contractor saw. I am using the rip fence as my reference without any problems. Thank you for the demo, it made a world of difference in the various steps in the construction.
Your option of just running the jig against the rip fence, instead of installing a mitre-slot runner, seems like a good idea. It's not obvious to me why the presenter (Brad?) used a runner for both jigs. Yes, there would be repeatability in locating the jig relative to the blade, but is that all?
Word of caution, that step at 8:54 (widening the thru slot) must be done in the order shown. I got it backwards and started with the fence further away, then moved it closer to me to widen the slot. When I started the widening cut, the wood was trapped between the bit and the fence, and since the bit was cutting on the backside, it threw my board hard to the left about 6 feet, and broke my 1/4" spiral bit! Good thing I was using push blocks!
Fancy jig is good for “jointing” if you don’t have one, but the simple one is quicker to make and you don’t need a router. Love the videos! Keep them coming.
Brad, these taper jigs coupled with a planner jig and you're golden! I'd go with the fancy one. My style is spend a little more time building or making things right on the front end to save time on the back end.
I personally like the second one. More adjustments for different wood sizes. 👍🏾
I happen to agree with Rolando here, I feel there is a bit more versatility in the fancy jig. A couple more clamps to hold it all together never hurts.
I'm going to make the second one.
Thanks for sharing.
Your manner of explaining the way to make things is really top shelf, Brad, I enjoy your content and look forward to trying it in my shop
Thanks!
Appreciate the Super Thanks!
Simple jig for me. It looks accurate, repeatable without a huge effort or materials. I just bought some clamps for another jig I'm building, and the most economical buy was 4 when I only needed two. So I've got these two left over clamps that needed a purpose. I am making two end tables, so 8 tapered legs. That's just enough to justify the effort and time to make this simple jig, then zip through the leg construction with precision. Your video is perfect and gives me everything I need to get this project started. Thanks!
Moar jigs... Great video Brad! Simple one is good for us beginners. I don't relish the idea of doing all that routing without a router table.
Could also do with a drill and a jigsaw, but a lot of work
The second one is more functional to me. It appears to be easier to setup & adjust. Thanks for the great video
Hey Brad,
Just finished the "simple" jig and a very please ! I actually built my hold down clamps from
some Baltic birch I had extra. This jig now allows me to true up some cherry I have wanted to work
with for a long time. Great plan and video! Keep up the great work!
Many thanks
I like the fancy one better because it looks more versatile. Thanks for your video's they teach a lot.
For any work that I do, the simple jig works just fine. My motto: simplicity + functionality = elegance
love it!
I like the fancy version. I also like the way you present your videos, very informative.
Thanks for the detailed video. I made the simple version about a year ago with the intent to make the fancy one later. The simple one works so well I haven’t bothered to improve it. I use it all the time to joint boards, in addition to the occasional tapering project. I used melamine for the base, which works well with the blue tape and CA glue technique.
I like the fancy jig, thanks for taking the time.
Simple and we'll explained. This will be the video I reference to build my fancy one
I built one somewhat similar to your fancy version a couple months ago, and it has come in very handy for straight lining and tapering.
Mine was almost 4' long and a bit wider though, and I added a few extra slots in the base piece to accommodate clamping shorter pieces of varying size. I also used four bolts and knobs instead of two because of the extra length and tendency for the top fence to lift/twist while clamping tight, and I skipped the runner and use the fence on my table saw instead...this allows me to also use the same jig clamped flat on a table for cutting slots and grooves etc in smaller parts with my plunge router too, and I just add a second top fence w/bolts/knobs when necessary, to allow me to do this. It works great and I'm so glad I didn't just build the simple version, because the extra versatility of the nicer one is well worth the extra time and work it took to make it! Thanks for all the great videos, I always enjoy watching your channel.
100% the fancy version!!!!! easier for repeat ability and consistency. you can mark your most used spots so you can line them up for regular cuts
It'll be the "fancy one" here for ease of rapid reset for differing tapering angles. Will use the extra length to allow longer tapers and for making square joining edges on longer pieces of wood.
Definitely the second one. Absolutely worth the effort. thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe. I would like this video better if you would not rush so much. Slow down a bit to allow points to sink in a bit.🙂
I am a subscriber and really like your "style". All of your builds and jigs are very nicely done and well explained. I vote for "fancy" because I don't have a jointer. Thank you for sharing this.
I was looking for a quick and easy jig so that is what I am building. Thanks for both designs though.
I'm all about adjustability so I definitely like the fancy one better. Great video.
thanks!
Well done on the jig, turned out quite nice. I'll copy that fancy one in the future.
thanks!
Looks like a shop full of brand new tools, nice.
Nice job. The second jig is more adjustable👍so it's better. Most of your builds are awesome. You also explain well
I like both ideas, but I will build the fancy one, thanks for the video
I really like the fancy version! Just got the router bits and hold downs and stuff from Rockler ! Merry Christmas!
Both have their place. Depends how many table legs you think you might build. I’ll build the simple one. Really nice for a one off table. Thanks.
I made the fancy one a few months ago and haven't been happy with the fence. It always bowed on one side with any clamping pressure. I think I'm going to try a new one with the center intact and see if that helps. Your videos have been very helpful to me!
See if that helps!
@@Fixthisbuildthat On the fancy one, maybe make another half-length slot at the midpoint of the jig and drill a hole in the midpoint of the fence for another T bolt. No looking at nasty fences, especially in southern Colorado. Thumbs up to crush a troll, and a new subscriber, too.
It's all all about Fancy thanks for sharing have a blessed day
thank you! You too
Thanks Brad. Both are fairly easy to make. I will probably go with the simmer one first when I need it since I don’t do that many tapers. If I was making more, I would spend the extra time.
Exactly my thought. Simple one will do for light work
Made the easy one and works great Thanks for sharing this video
First one is good for someone who just wants to do a few tapers for a project, and doesn't have a router. Good vid.
Like the fancy version. Would have like if you would demonstrate cutting double tapers with this jig.
I'm totally going to build the advanced taper jig. Great work as always.
fancy; thank you for showing us. Now I want to go out and make one!
I am brand new to woodworking and I find your videos and podcast very informative and entertaining. I see the value of the fancy jig. More time and effort on the front end, but certainly worth it on the backend.
The 2nd one is great. Would like to build this. Thanks for sharing your excellent videos.
Fancy one, it's versatile. Thanks for sharing.
I love your videos, they are very informative and hilarious!! Oh and I like the fancy jig, oh so fancy. Thanks for all the great videos really appreciate all that goes into making one. Keep up the great work Brad!
The second one is the best. I have a generic version of that to get my straight edges since I don’t own a jointer and will now be making the 2nd to replace the generic one I have. Great video.
I opt for the fancy one, too. I also need a jig that can handle work pieces up to 8' for a project I have in mind for Spring.
Definitely the fancy!! thanks for the video!
you're welcome!
I actually like both of them. Will be making them soon. Thank you for such great videos.
I built the fancy one a few months ago after I saw Tamar's video. I like your simple design though, and the tip about sizing the width of runner is a good one.
Have one of each :)
Gotta give them both a hands up. As always another great video
thanks, Grant!
I like the simple fancy version with fancy simpleness.
😄
Great build! I love that you show and own up to the mistakes…you’re human like the rest of Us. It’s great cause you show how you address those mistakes and or how to fix them. Thanks again!
Just built this very thing (Minus the miter Bar) a few weeks ago 👍🏻👍🏻
Sweet! It's a great design that's worked for ages
Built the fancy version. Love it. Thanks for the video.
The fancy one provides some flexibility. Thanks and great job.
I like your fancy jig. I made a tapering jig based on the MircoJig plans and it too works great.
Both are good but fancy one is definitely better!!
I built the simple one and it works great! Thank you!
I made one like the fancy one like a year ago but I used MDF because I was in a hurry for a job that needs to be completed... it works just fine but I knew since the beginning that I should use plywood.
yeah, I'm not a MDF fan...just not enough structural integrity
Both are great but I’ll be making the first one. I am in the process of building three dimensional five point stars and with ten pieces per star the angles must be precise and repeatable. Since this is really the only thing I need the jig for adjustability of it isn’t that crucial. Thanks for an awesome video.
Second jig is great, just what I needed, keep up the great work. Subscribed buddy
Nicely done Brad.
I like the second version ,looks better and to me easier to adjust
I'm a pretty simple guy, but have to vote for "Fancy". I will probably use it far more as a straightening jig and need the width adjustment. Great video, as always.
Yes, I like the simple and fancy. Subbed.
Definately the fancy one, great video... greetings from Denmark, as Denmark Scandiavia......
I would build the more complex one if not just for the miter bar. Nothing worse than when your runner shrinks and you've got a nice bit of play in your sled. Great video, Brad - I'm a fellow Nashvillian!
Yes, shrinking runners stinks. And go check out the Nashville Area Woodworkers Online group on FB. We do local meetups!
definitely Fancy. Just so much more capability for the little extra work to make it.
The added functionality of using the second tapering jig as a straight line jig is appealing. I think the ability to use different hold downs in that case, such as might be used for highly irregular woods, e.g. part logs, etc. may be useful to consider. Also, when using it as a straight line jig, a useful way to set the fence for parallel is to set the top position based on your desired width (use a block to set this) and then using that same block of wood between the blade and fence, slide it up to the bottom position and then tighten it down. Now your fence is perfectly parallel to the blade and should ensure not only a straight line on the target but also a parallel cut like you would get using the tablesaw fence. Good video, Brad - thanks. Just say no to nasty fences, kiddies. :-)
Made a fancy one after watching Tamar on 3x3 Custom build hers. Didn't use the slot guide. Just run the straight edge of the platform along the table saw fence.
yup, just keep even pressure on it. I used to do that and it eventually lost the good tight line
Great video. I'll opt for jig #2. Love the corny Dad joke humor in there!😄
It would be hard for me to make but I really like the fancy jig better because it gives you a lit more options and usability.
without a router it becomes more difficult but drill bits and jigsaws can clear the channels
amazing, very useful video thank you
you're welcome!
Cool man. I'll build the first one, since I won't use it often.
Can I cheat? I like the fancy one, but without the runner. There's many ways to skin a cat, but I like the additional flexibility of being able to move the fence further away for straight-lining wider boards. Thanks for the video!
yes, that is a good little hack for no runner
Love the fancy taper jig,thanks for posting.
Terrific video Brad! My philosophy is "Do It Right The First Time", or at least get close! Therefore, I will build the FANCY tapering jig. Thanks.............. :)
That's a good motto :)
I think my fave is the simple jig with blue tape CA glue for repeat cuts.
Great job. I need to build one soon.
I love the fancy version.
Great video. I would chose the fancy one.
Nice video Brad and I like them both! 😊 You do a great job explaining when you’re building! 👍🏻 Thanks for sharing!
Awesome work Brad! 😃👍🏻👊🏻 ... you had me at quick and easy setup, Fancy! 😉👌🏻
😀👍 quick and easy makes life nice
Definitely the fancy version. I want to make a jig for making lighthouses, which requires a 22.5 degree cut, along with a taper so the octagon tapers from a large base to a small diameter top for the light turret, and its base and rails.
FYI, if you do all of these steps in reverse you don't need the glue or the washers or anything. Just put the runner on first on a slightly oversized base board, then just cut the base board down to final width and it'll all be lined up automatically perfect. Then put in your holes for hold down clamps last and you don't have to worry about them interfering with the runner, since the runner is already there.
Keep em coming Brad. Love all your videos. I personally like the second jig better. To me it's well worth the extra time making it to save time using it over and over.
Fancy one for sure. Great video
What is that green guide thing you are using at 4:07? (srry if that is a lame question I am a newby with wood working and just bought my first table saw lol)
Nice video Brad. Thanks for sharing.
You're welcome!
Thanks for Sharing. I definitely like the second jig for its wider versatility. Keep up the great work. By the way, I smashed the Subscribe Button.
Fancy. Good build video.
thanks!
I second the second jig.