I love the FD. EF is definitely boss material but the FD is that upstart manager that changes everything. I'd pick the FD over the EF. Personal choices.
In a world where everyone makes videos about the latest & greatest, Mark is over here making fantastic videos about the stuff he already has. Not only is it a lesson in great editing and presentation, but contentment! Well done, Mark.
Thanks Ben! Kind of funny I didn’t realize today was Sony day anyway and as one comment mentioned, what a day to pick a video release with canon in the title lol.
@@MarkHoltze I've been on a hardcore FD lens kick lately, adapting to my Sony a6500, but also diving into the Canon A-series 35mm cameras, so I'll eat up literally any FD/vitnage lens content I can find. Yours is always top-notch.
@@MarkHoltze Ha! Yea, we have a stock pile of vintage lenses we use. Old Minolta Lenses are cool too. Favorite is FD 50mm 1.4 with speedbooster. on a GH5.
For the price you could easily get a whole set of FD lenses plus camera for the price of the EF lens and have a whole lot of money left. Vintage lenses are a great entry into photography, especially getting some quality prime lenses which easily could adapt to a more current camera body.
Great point you made Mark... it’s not FD vs. EF, or vintage vs. modern. The cost savings of a vintage prime in a focal length you want to try makes experimenting a lot easier (on the pocketbook). If you like the focal length, and want the features of a modern lens, go buy it! If you don’t like it, you’re only out 1/15th the price of the modern prime. Who knew that vintage lenses could be gateway drugs for modern ones!?
lol, thankful the itch wasn't due to some forest excursion encounter with poison ivy as well. I actually got some on my ankle pretty bad when I was out shooting my Takumar 35 review in August 2018....won't make that mistake again ;)
I've been shooting Canon since the 1970's, so I have a large collection of FD lenses (both L and non-L). Once Canon switched to the EF series, my FD lenses sat unused for many years. Fast forward to Sony's A7R series...now my FD lenses have a new life. I'm pretty surprised how well they perform on Sony's sensor...so much so that I sometimes find myself leaving the 5D4 at home at grabbing the mirrorless Sony body and few FD lenses instead. If you're backpacking or just day hiking, it does make for a lighter load.
Sony mirrorless was the camera that got me INTO vintage! Still think it's among the best and most easily to adapt. Waiting for adapters for my S1H L mount.
@@MarkHoltze If you really want a light load for backpacking or hiking, Olympus OM lenses are extremely compact and really deliver some excellent results. It got to the point where I had too many adapted lenses (Canon, Nikon, Contax, and Oly) that I reluctantly sold the Olys. I really miss the Oly 18/3.5 and 21/3.5...they can literally fir in your pocket.
Excellent video Mark, kudos for showing the trillium! To remove the stuck filter I can 3D print a wrench if there's enough left of the filter for good contact, another option is to use lock pliers and twist it off, that worked for me once.
very short window to shoot them in, before the bugs are out in full force, which I believe they are now. What a difference a few days makes. Thanks Alex!
I honestly don't mind the FD lens, but as I'd need to spend more time in post 'fixing' shots for clients, I'd pick the 24mm EF. Full disclosure, I use the 24mm EF all the time for work. I always say to invest in good glass over good cameras as they will last you a lifetime (potentially). So the FD has done pretty good considering it was discontinued in 1987. Loved this one Mark! You've mastered the lockdown output ratios! I hope you and your family are all safe and well!
Client work ya, for a wide angle lens for sure def go EF, just save you some time for sure. The 24 is pretty much the last NEW lens I use. Talking head and top down reverse angle stuff for my youtube videos. Everything else has been sold lol.
@@MarkHoltze I think that's where new flashy lenses excel. PTCs or IVs. It's generally more aesthetically pleasing to have clean, neat, sharp focus when filming people talking in an interview capacity. But everything else can generally be done stylistically (within reason).
As a canon shooter I really enjoy these comparisons :) Also, I realized I havent seen a Mark Holtze video in a while. Despite that I've been subscribed and been watching Photography stuff, RUclips has decided not to notify me of anything new :( (so I made sure to ding the bell)
Great video Mark! I just ordered the FD 28mm 2.8 so this video was interesting to watch. Obviously the L lens is sharper and better but for street and landscape photography as long as its sharp corner to corner at f11 I'm a happy camper
I used to rock two Canon AT-1's with this exact FD 24mm f/2.8 and the nFD 50mm 1.8. With this lens I would typically shoot at f/8 or f/11, set to hyperfocal max'd at infinity and meter off the sidewalk. Absolute street machine. I would also carry the Olympus XA-2 on me for quick shots at a "between" focal length of 40mm. That is my favorite camera ever because it just always gets the shot (only 3 focus settings; sometimes simpler is just better). Now I'm moving (building up to) two Fuji x-pro 3's with a Ricoh GRIII as my digital alternative to the XA-2 (not in focal length, obviously, but general functionality). I carry my cameras on Optitech padded foam straps with the actual neck strap removed so both cameras sit tucked right behind my arms/shoulders - makes it really easy to quickly sight down the viewfinder and then they disappear when not in use. Also, since we are already shooting on primes with everything pre-focused and pre-metered (for the most part), and I am very familiar with 24mm and 50mm focal lenghts, sometimes it is totally acceptable to shoot "blind" or from the hip.... The 24 especially. I find the FD 24mm to be super versatile and a great general reportage lens. I also just got the nFD 17mm f/4 which is going to be a lot of fun (especially being at basically f/2.8 with the speedbooster)
Great comparison Mark! Never thought of testing an older lens before deciding whether you want to invest in expensive version of it is a good approach for beginners! The FD lens is still an amazing value!
Thanks Kyle! Definitely agree, it was the FD lens that convinced me the 24 was for me. Would have rather got the FD 1.4 L series, but dang thing is more $$$ than this EF lens.
Another great vid, thank you Mark! I have the FD 24/2.8, 28/2.8, and 50/1.4. The 50 is significantly crisper than the other two. But that said, the 24/2.8 is sharp enough. This is especially true if you might be using it as I am, with a speed booster that shrinks the image and thus creates more (apparent?) sharpness. And for video, which seems to be a bit more forgiving than still photography. Given my use, here is what I find interesting: You said the 1.4 lens needs to be stopped down to f/2.8 to begin to shine, and the 2.8 should be stopped down to f/4 to start looking nice (I agree). So when I throw my speed booster on an f/4 setting, I'm netting an f/2.8. Thus the 1.4 on a full frame vs. the 2.8 with booster on a smaller format camera end up at the very same aperture, with at least somewhat more comparable image quality. Feel like testing that head-to-head out?
Fun video Mark! Just wanted to offer a few thoughts: 1. I had a local camera repair shop pull a damaged filter with some pliers. He was slow and careful, but came it out with much less fanfare than you might expect. 2. These 24/1.4 L's have a first gen version that can be purchased at a great value. I scored one a few months ago at a Hunt's in Boston for $500. As in the vintage game, you just need to stay vigilant. 3. I see you shooting with a Fuji which is what I am using. I find that through a speed booster there's a little loss in frame- it probably comes out to something like 25 or 26mm. So you technically do shave a little of the vignette off as compared to going straight to another full frame camera. On my Black Magic I believe I get something more like 30mm and there's no vignetting in the frame. 4. All that in the pot, I still plan to grab a 50/1.2 FD and convert it to EF :)
I've removed bent filters before. Easiest solution that is slightly risky is to get a wire cutter and snip the filter as close as you can get to the threading. Repeat a few times. You should be able to get it weak enough at that point you can pull towards the element and pry it off.
Really love the edit chops on show here great job. I think you get a lot of lens for the price when you use those fd lens. I really think they nailed the design of that series.
Thanks Wesley, my timeline is a disaster lol, but the edit is smooth. Better than a sloppy edit and an organized timeline I think. ;) Ya FD are fantastic.
I don't have the money for the EF, but I think that if I had it, I would only buy it because of the autofocus. That's the game changer in my opinion. When using them for photography only, I always think vintage lenses are the obvious choice. But, we have to consider video of course. Great video Mark. You are an amazing editor. I convinced some friends to follow you, and despite them not having any camera, they love your videos!
Funny I think the opposite, but I’ve been manual focusing video since I started basically so it’s a no brainer for me. Prefer it actually. I totally feel you though mate.
@@MarkHoltze I'll probably end at 85 or the 135mm. Have they made anything below 24mm for the FDs? I think I've seen an 18mm or a 14mm but I'm not sure
It’s a tough call, because they’re so very different. But for certain if you (or someone) didn’t already own a 24mm then the canon is a great choice. It’s really solid and pleasing for what is just $100. Great video, loved seeing the outdoors too, makes me optimistic for the summer.
So very different. Outdoors has been nice, finding places where people aren't has been a full time past time. I biked all over hell's half acre here lol. All before the bugs have come out, but tonight it seems mosquitos have all risen from their swampy nesting places and hungry for blood. Forest shoots may have to be suspended for a bit.
Hey Mark, I am very much into macro photography and recently delved into the vintage lens world and have been highly entertained by your fountain of knowledge. I have gathered a few lenses , Hellos 44, Pentacon 50mm f/1.8 and Carl Zeiss Jena Pancolar. Which vintage lenses do you consider to be a great for macro and what notable lens has a good minimum focus distance? I am loving the Pentacon but always keen to know if I am missing out on another vintage gem ..
Depending how warped the filter is id SUGGEST using a residue free tape to safe guard the glass, use a dremel or some sort of other precision cutting tool to create to parallel grooves across fro. Eachother and use a cheap knife like a butter knife with a strong blade or a putty knife to pry it off by unscrewing it. Make sense?
Ibis takes care a lot of the issues with stabilization now if your camera has it. But ya auto features are a luxury of modern glass. You can still get auto shutter control however.
Before I even watch. I must say the vintage lenses like this and Nikkor D series, I appreciate the DOF measurements on the lens. Being able to manually focus is a lot easier on them.
Agreed, I also love the F/STOP markings be on the lens itself as well. I'm glad they're starting to put those back on the lens, it's a lens function after all and also gives a COOL factor to the lenses too lol. DOF measurements are perfect for shooting from the hip as well!
@@MarkHoltze absolutely. Not to rip on Jared Polin but he thinks the LCD screen on lenses is a waste. I actually like the new tech also b/c at night I can't see the DOF markings.
@@dct124 Completely not a waste, if he's using auto focus (which he is i believe) i can see maybe why he would say that, but his style of photography does not represent everyones. I find it hard to make any claims outside of my own personal tastes because everybody is different. He's a much better photographer and a bigger youtuber than I am so i respect his opinion even though I don't share it :) We're definitely not the majority i don't think ;)
@@MarkHoltze true I prefer manual focusing. I'll occasionally use AF if I only have one hand otherwise with the markings I can set focus and DOF without the viewfinder as long as I know distance I can set focus off feel which to me is now so priceless. I can do it down to F2. I think old event film photographers used to do it too. I can set everything without a meter now too.
To remove the stuck on broken filter, cover the front element, the use a dremel and carefully cut it. I had this issue with a stuck on UV on my 10-22, cause my tripod fell over and landed face first, also the filter was not broken, so I had to break it, again carefully, to remove it before the surgery could begin.
I just like the FD better - probably only me, but I like 'unreal' amounts of contrast and for tube-macro video work in low light (stabilised on tripod, with extra lighting added), the FD just makes a better buy.
ya I like the natural contrast as well, the colours being a bit more saturated are interesting as well. Makes grading video a little trickier vs the EF, but only by a bit.
Take a file on its edge and file some notches into the top of the filter's ring. Then use a thin bar that fits the groove much like a super wide flathead screwdriver. Just keep nudging it until it finally gives away.
Once sawn / weakened at the point of impact / damage, I used two pliers to widen the broken filter. Ok, I was not alone, us two guys pulled each end of the filter away. In the end, once a few centimetres (an inch) apart, it slips quite easy...
Depends, I think the biggest thing is Lens condition, and reputation of the seller. The year will matter only in which variant of a lens you’re looking at. Make sure no fungus, minimal or no haze and decent physical condition.
Hey man, what adapter FD to Eos are you using? I heard there's some problems with glass elements in FD adapters. Thanks BTW: your narration cleaned up a lot! I love the way you evolve as a RUclipsr. 🖖 kudos
Hard mount EF adapter on the FD lens. Simmod one. Just screws on, it's easy and turns FD into an EF and there is no issue because I'm not using a DSLR. It's the mirrored cameras that have the adapting issue, cinema cameras, mirrorless ones have always been good. Just finding the adapter that works is a bit of a pain ;)
Apart from not being aspherical that make the edges not as sharp because the focus line curve, fd is doing really well. Colour and contrast can be easily adjust, i prefer lenses with lower contrast even because I can pushed a bit extra detail in certain circumstances. Btw for the filter stuck use wd40 don't spray it directly, spray into small container, and use toothpick or screw driver to put it. Then use jar opener, or just use jar opener mostly find. To use jar opener if you have trouble, position the grip on the left and right side of the scruffy bit of the filter. Filter might be slightly elipse and pressing this area to open should help.
Agreed, it's a big reason why I like the Contax Zeiss line for me cinema lenses, fairly neutral in terms of contrast and colour so you can push that bit farther when grading. Leica R's are also very popular for some DP's, but more pronounced natural colour and contrast looks nice, but tougher to push the grade. Thanks so much for the filter advice!
Cool comparison! I recently adapted the FD 28mm f2.8 to my 5dii body! Not sure why but there’s weird artifacts, colors can be quirky, and vertical lines get slanted towards the edges. Do you think using a mirrorless body would help? I still got some cool images. I’m on a constant quest to get the film look with digital
I love this so so much. Off topic but do you think it would be possible to confer EF to FD - I know you’d lose a lot of control (likely have to set the aperatire ahead of time on a modern canon body and then shoot it fixed on the vintage body) but i would love to see that
That would be interesting, I wonder. I'm sure it can be done, people are making ice lenses work with cameras , I'm sure this could be done. One annoying thing about the EF lens when setting aperture on a modern body, it seems to default to "wide open" when you remove it from any sort of electrical camera connection. I had this issue when adapting it to my Sony, I could only ever shoot it at F/1.4 no matter what aperture I set it at before hand on the modern body. I should re-visit it and see if I can trouble shoot that though. Thanks for stopping by Cody!
Mark Holtze actually I have two of them that I picked up at an estate sale. Neither say FD. One is a CPC 80-200mm 4.0 and the other is a Venus 28mm 2.8, I don’t think either lens is anything special
I've definitely noticed my FD lenses shoot a more "dreamy" quality of photo and video -- both in warmth of colours and in the super shallow depth of field they seem to have when mounted to my DSLR
I think Nikkor's might be the next set I look at purchasing, i've been a bit on lockdown for buying stuff lately, but I should definitely take a look at some Nikkor's. Thanks mate.
I've got my Tamron FE 28-75 F2.8 for my A7iii, wondering an FD 24mm could expand my coverage =] Before that, I'm doing research, looking for a character 35mm... my list are Mir-1 37mm f2.8; CZJ Flektogon 35 2.8 or 2.4 ; and your beloved Takumar 35 f2.0
That 24mm EF looks like it's had a lot of love ;) I looooove that lens so much. I think the biggest thing about the 24mm f1.4 is the video capabilities-- it's soooo legit for low light. But that said, the FD version is still such a legit lens. I use mine on my Sony allllll the time.
Have you ever used any of the Topcor lenses? I just got the Topcor RE, 3.5 cm f2.8 and 10 cm F2.8 for free, and looking online a bit they seem like they'll be incredible lenses, just waiting to get my adapter in the mail.
Have never used an FD to EF converter before. I'm seeing the one you linked is very basic, compared to a handful of others. Lacking glass, does that mean it no longer has the infinity focus? The ones I'm seeing that allow infinity focus also mention having a 1.4 crop factor...which I definitely do not like.
The one I linked is an M42 to EOS, not FD to EF just to be clear. That's the reason why it's "basic" and not needing glass element because M42 lenses don't have infinity focus issues like FD's do on EOS cameras. I've got that crop factor adapter and I don't like it, dont' recommend it. FD to EOS just isn't a great combo, better saved for EF-M or RF and maybe explore other glass brands that arent' FD for EF mounted cameras. I reviewed that very adapter in an older video, Shooting FD on EOS cameras or something. Canon RF cameras are bringing Canon FD lenses back to canon bodies. They kind of denied their older FD lenses with the whole EF system unfortunately.
to remove the filter you can cut two small notches opposite each other with a Dremel (or even a file) and use a metal ruler across them to lever it off. definitely clamp the lens down.
Nice one Mark, good to see the difference that extra money gets. Very interesting, you can def see the sharpness difference and the light it absorbed through the trees was pretty cool too. i'd def like to try one out , i think thats why i use my sigma lens on my m50 so much super clear and precise. but when you need that character cant beat the vintage girls !
definitely. I almost didn't shoot that thinking i wouldn't see a difference (lens comparison shots are probably my least favourite to do)...i hate shooting brick walls and literature for the sake of a test because it's not really "real world" but it's hard to get samples that are identical for deep analysis.
@@caldera878 OH SNAP! You are right. I was thinking of the 55mm. Good catch. I stopped researching classic Canon glass about a year ago when I saw the price jump. I'll stick with f1.8s and f2.0s and such.
I'd pick the FD just for the price advantage. I'm biased because I already like vintage lenses and I'm also broke as hell. As for sharpness and vignetting, I could easily stop it down :P no biggie CAREFUL, LOG!
Price advantage goes a long way right? I mean $1500 for a prime (despite how fast it is, how good it is) is quite limiting in terms of who gets to play with it. Wide angle lens like this stopping down is usually an advantage the focal length can benefit from anyway. Landscapes = lots of elements in focus, best way to get that is stopping down, like WAYYYY down ;) LOG!!!!!
the idea of a large aperture is for boketh, depth of field, low light etc stopping down eliminates the reason for it in the first place. No, get a vintage lens that performs perfectly wide open. THAT is the prize you seek
There is something of beauty in vintage lenses. We have gotten into this world of perfectionisms where we see every zit on a person's face as if women want to see that! The great movies like Casablanca used softening filters to get that dreamy and creamy, gorgeous look and grain peeping was not high priority. Sure today's lenses are awesome, autofocus is amazing, the science is superb, cinema lenses over $20k. I understand their reasons - breathing, chromatic color separations in the out of focus areas, sharpness corner to corner and for a $50m film, this is cheap as borsch. But man, some of these old lenses are gold. Manual yes, but the look is what one is after. I have a set of Zeiss lenses that go back 30 years and sure, they ain't perfect, but when put side by side with new lenses, there is just something about them i can't explain - just better, not sharper or other features, but just different in a nice way.
@@MarkHoltze I would buy the cheapo $22 kit at Walmart, I just bought one recently to replace my last cheap one I left my parents house. Works fine, of you want to be cheap. Comes with the little cut off wheels, and they are fragile if you put force on them not in a 90 degree angle. So just let it spin up, touch the part you want to cut, let it gouge the material, and just keep going till you can break it and spread the filter ring off since it is threaded. I would also cover areas you do not want to cut with painters tape. Give you a little layer of protection from slips.
I use wide angles mainly for travel, then the EF 24 (or equally sized) lenses would never be used. The FD seems like a nice balance of size, optical performance, and price - much like the S-M-C Takumar 24mm F3.5 :)
Yes it's a good balance, and the nice thing about landscapes is they don't really move around much so nailing focus isn't that challenging if you can count on your eyes, or camera has decent manual focus assists. The Tak 24mm 3.5 i'm seeing for $175-$380...i would have picked one up, but I don't need another 24 that badly ;)
There is Canon FD 24mm F1.4 S.S.C and is like almost 3X the price of the EF 24mm f1.4 L, if it's in mint condition. All great lenses but different rendering
Yes, I would love to compare those two, the 24mm FD L series is also a good match up, but again price is so inflated due to scarcity it's a little tricky. 3 grand Canadian that's being asked for now lol....maybe one day i'll get a loaner ;)
The FD 1.4 goes for $3000 CND on eBay and don’t want to spend that much on an old lens. I have both of these and it’s a video I wanted to make for awhile, let the audience see where the value lies between the two lenses and make their own judgements. I can’t compare what I don’t own :)
I had that awesome 24 nfd. Just never drop it because its really easy to kill this lens. this particular lens suffer of "bushing", really easy to mess up and really hard to tight barrles and fix it.
Feel better now that the “itch” has been “scratched”😁? Optics most important, but price comparison would help more when vintage tag is expressed in terms of current dollar equivalent. Put another way, how long would you have had to work (back when vintage was introduced) to buy the vintage and how long today to buy the contemporary lens? Love the sunset silhouettes BTW.
I can’t compare those metrics, and part of why it’s an apples to oranges comparison. This is the market we are all living in and can relate most profoundly to. You can’t even compare any vintage lens to a modern one based on the fact designs, and optics/glass has changed. But in terms of experimenting, the FD does a great job for the investment and may help inform a bigger purchase down the line. I bought the L because of how Lucy I liked the 24. This was my third vintage lens. Really wanted the FD 24 1.4 but it’s more expensive than the modern one. Imagine doing the price equivalent on current dollar at $2200 usd in 2020? ;) $20,000 lens in 1980 ;)
Mark Holtze, this review reminds me of the old danish saying ,, there are two kinds of girls, the seductive you have a hot romance with (= canon fd) and the girl you marry (= canon ef)
Hi, both lenses have their place and style. You know I like vintage glass :) I think using either lens depends on the individual and the type of stylistic/artistic look one is going for....more importantly; the fun and enjoyment involved ;)
@@MarkHoltze By the way, I have the Sigma 24 f1.4 art lens (Canon Mount). I don't use it very often but it is an extremely amazing lens, rather quite sharp at 1.4 with smooth and beautiful bokeh.
As an amateur the FD lens is by far the better choice. You get to learn the skills behind manual focusing, and working around imperfect shooting conditions. Honestly I would only buy the EF lens if I had A). A shit ton of money to burn, or B). Were a grade above professional. For someone like me who is broke and amateur, it makes a lot more sense to collect older cheaper lenses. Id rather have 6 old primes.
Try a zip tie, it might not work since it looks pretty bent, worth a shot first though. If not, use some gaff tape to protect your lens and cut out the bent area with a dremel or something similar, then try the zip tie again.
At the end of the day is a matter of taste. Technically speaking the new lens generation are better corrected. But many of the Canon FD lenses are used for video because of the look it gives to the images.
Hey, Mark. Do you think editing images like sharpenning and removing flaring is cheating? And can you save your money by just sharpenning your image shot with 100$ lens with only editing software?
These two lenses aren't the same. The difference is not only the age, the autofocus and the price but these lenses are totally differents, different construction. Some lenses have a very huge front element (e.g. Flektogon zebra 25/4), but the rear element is very small. Other vintage lens (e.g. my Vivitar 24/2.8) is a very tiny. Don't understand what roles plays the different size frontlens. But now my best friend is a (fullframe) Samyang 24/1.4, this lens has a huge front and rear lenses and huge weight, and high quality.
Right as stated it’s an apples to Oranges comparison. Also stated are the optical formulas that are different, completely different lenses. But for many the price and what you get for that price is all that matters. Wide angle lenses let in a lot of light from a larger FOV, they’re among the most challenging to do right so there needs to be room for proper corrective elements to reconstruct that image on the sensor. Faster lenses have larger diameters to accommodate the room needed for the aperture to double in size for every stop.
Yeah the FD is 95% there but if your on a budget or you do film photography that it’s the one you should have until you could afford it, but I would’ve thought the color on the FD would be better, but technology has certainly changed since the 70’s, or at least the purification process of glass for sharpness
@@technol-bismol3778 I know a few people who might be able to lend me one. I might not even want to in case it gets "lost in mail" that's a hot ticket lol.
By and large my experience has been that modern lenses on wider focal lengths usually work overall better - atleast on the sony FF mirrorless. However these vintage lenses were made at the time of film cameras and optics was not measured by the criteria today - also many modern lenses are corrected by the in camera profile so if one does that with vintage lenses the results can be astonishing. I also find that withthe development of sensor - processor technology some of these older lenses may perform better on newer sensors-processors ( i had the experience with some of my vintage lenses when I upgraded from the sony a7r2 to the 4). On the other hand with new 3rd party lenses for the sony system the price range has been reduced (weight too) and there are many more interesting and far cheaper options. It will take more time for the newer mirrorless systems to develop a more evolved lens range. As to the above comparison the EF lens is clearly the winner but whether it is worth that extra is another question.
Use pliers to remove the damaged filter remains. As for the 24mm FD you missed a valuable point: they make great primes for the Canon M cameras. On a cropped sensor you are only getting the sweetest spot of the lens, plus the added bonus of manual focus making you slow down and think about what you are doing. Lots of FD lenses are fun to use and they all will give you that warmer less contrasty kind of image. The idea is the lens has character as opposed to clinical perfection. Lenses today need to have more character. The other thing is as the megapixels continue to climb and climb the glass needed to take full advantage of that becomes more sophisticated and consequently more analytically clinical. So, we can see that for most people, at some point, gigantic $2500 lenses don't make any sense in terms of a price/performance ratio. I think the most recent Canon M cameras at about 32 megapixels should be the place where they stop and instead concentrate on dynamic range and also IBIS and especially computational photography in-camera. For example, a selected depth of field automated control, and multi-exposure modes with blending and pixel shift should do as much as anyone would ever want. Frankly the lack of DOF information in the viewfinder in this day and age is kind of crazy. Only Fuji seems to address that aspect. FD lenses are quite nice for the money.
I'm no pro photo- or videographer so +500€ lenses are out of the question. I have a quite a collection of vintage glass that I can use on my Canon 5D2, BMPCC4, and Lumix GH80. I love the FD 24 2.8 and in most cases it performs perfectly. Obviously the f1.4 of the EF lens offers more creative possibilities. But the latter isn't worth the money, again, as a non-pro.
Let's compare apples to apples the FD 24mm F1.4L version with the EF version. Good luck getting the FD for under $1,500. Collectors holding up the price as the EF version will one day electronically break down.
I had a bit in my script where I mentioned the FD F/1.4 24 and saw the prices at $3000 CND so just cut it out. No way i'll get one to review at those prices. Beautiful lens though holy hell. 24 1.4, 50 1.2 and 85 1.2 FD L series would be a dream set for sure.
@@MarkHoltze Mirrorless users especially for video or film collectors are noticing how great the old FD L lenses are and the prices are not going down.
I don't mind it either, and stopping down cleans it up a bit more. I'm rarely framing anything of any worth at the edge of the frame and if I am, I'll set my manual focus point to that part of the frame and focus on it. Edge to edge sharpness is a bit overrated, but it's a metric by which these lenses get reviewed I guess.
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What do you guys think? EF over FD?
EF overall but like you said the FD is a start
Loving my FD 24mm f2.8, might try to convert it to EF eventually though
I love the FD. EF is definitely boss material but the FD is that upstart manager that changes everything. I'd pick the FD over the EF. Personal choices.
I love my FD, but I do have to take a few extra shots just to be sure I have the subject focused correctly.
FD for the win.
In a world where everyone makes videos about the latest & greatest, Mark is over here making fantastic videos about the stuff he already has. Not only is it a lesson in great editing and presentation, but contentment! Well done, Mark.
Thanks Ben! Kind of funny I didn’t realize today was Sony day anyway and as one comment mentioned, what a day to pick a video release with canon in the title lol.
@@MarkHoltze I've been on a hardcore FD lens kick lately, adapting to my Sony a6500, but also diving into the Canon A-series 35mm cameras, so I'll eat up literally any FD/vitnage lens content I can find. Yours is always top-notch.
Everything that you mentioned about FD lenses are exactly why I have been using my set for over 35 years and why I will continue to use them.
You probably have set kings would only dream of owning! I have to ask, which ones are among your favourites?
We love Canon FD lenses! Something very magical in those vintage lenses.
Agreed! Now I'm kind of interested in FL lenses lol. Why is that, stop going backwards Mark ;)
@@MarkHoltze Ha! Yea, we have a stock pile of vintage lenses we use. Old Minolta Lenses are cool too. Favorite is FD 50mm 1.4 with speedbooster. on a GH5.
For the price you could easily get a whole set of FD lenses plus camera for the price of the EF lens and have a whole lot of money left. Vintage lenses are a great entry into photography, especially getting some quality prime lenses which easily could adapt to a more current camera body.
Fully agree!
"uh ohh, LOG" and you cut to going over a log. That made me laugh for some reason. FD for the win I say.
lol, i should have shot that in landscape mode ;)
The feeling of the Smooth manua focusing and clicky adjusting aperture on an vintage lens is simply unbeatable.
Absolutely
Great point you made Mark... it’s not FD vs. EF, or vintage vs. modern. The cost savings of a vintage prime in a focal length you want to try makes experimenting a lot easier (on the pocketbook). If you like the focal length, and want the features of a modern lens, go buy it! If you don’t like it, you’re only out 1/15th the price of the modern prime. Who knew that vintage lenses could be gateway drugs for modern ones!?
Excellent as always. Happy that the itch was overcome without the need for ointment or something bought over the internet.
lol, thankful the itch wasn't due to some forest excursion encounter with poison ivy as well. I actually got some on my ankle pretty bad when I was out shooting my Takumar 35 review in August 2018....won't make that mistake again ;)
@@MarkHoltze Beyond the call of duty !
I've been shooting Canon since the 1970's, so I have a large collection of FD lenses (both L and non-L). Once Canon switched to the EF series, my FD lenses sat unused for many years. Fast forward to Sony's A7R series...now my FD lenses have a new life. I'm pretty surprised how well they perform on Sony's sensor...so much so that I sometimes find myself leaving the 5D4 at home at grabbing the mirrorless Sony body and few FD lenses instead. If you're backpacking or just day hiking, it does make for a lighter load.
Sony mirrorless was the camera that got me INTO vintage! Still think it's among the best and most easily to adapt. Waiting for adapters for my S1H L mount.
@@MarkHoltze If you really want a light load for backpacking or hiking, Olympus OM lenses are extremely compact and really deliver some excellent results. It got to the point where I had too many adapted lenses (Canon, Nikon, Contax, and Oly) that I reluctantly sold the Olys. I really miss the Oly 18/3.5 and 21/3.5...they can literally fir in your pocket.
love the video, amazing work!
Thanks mate!
Great video Mark.
Thanks Matt
Excellent video Mark, kudos for showing the trillium! To remove the stuck filter I can 3D print a wrench if there's enough left of the filter for good contact, another option is to use lock pliers and twist it off, that worked for me once.
very short window to shoot them in, before the bugs are out in full force, which I believe they are now. What a difference a few days makes. Thanks Alex!
I honestly don't mind the FD lens, but as I'd need to spend more time in post 'fixing' shots for clients, I'd pick the 24mm EF. Full disclosure, I use the 24mm EF all the time for work. I always say to invest in good glass over good cameras as they will last you a lifetime (potentially). So the FD has done pretty good considering it was discontinued in 1987.
Loved this one Mark! You've mastered the lockdown output ratios! I hope you and your family are all safe and well!
Client work ya, for a wide angle lens for sure def go EF, just save you some time for sure. The 24 is pretty much the last NEW lens I use. Talking head and top down reverse angle stuff for my youtube videos. Everything else has been sold lol.
@@MarkHoltze I think that's where new flashy lenses excel. PTCs or IVs. It's generally more aesthetically pleasing to have clean, neat, sharp focus when filming people talking in an interview capacity. But everything else can generally be done stylistically (within reason).
As a canon shooter I really enjoy these comparisons :)
Also, I realized I havent seen a Mark Holtze video in a while. Despite that I've been subscribed and been watching Photography stuff, RUclips has decided not to notify me of anything new :( (so I made sure to ding the bell)
Great video Mark! I just ordered the FD 28mm 2.8 so this video was interesting to watch. Obviously the L lens is sharper and better but for street and landscape photography as long as its sharp corner to corner at f11 I'm a happy camper
Corners are good at F/11 on the FD, F/11-F/16 is the sweet spot there.
Another amazing video 👍👍👍
Thanks mate! Ironglass is making a good move going FD me thinks! ;)
I used to rock two Canon AT-1's with this exact FD 24mm f/2.8 and the nFD 50mm 1.8. With this lens I would typically shoot at f/8 or f/11, set to hyperfocal max'd at infinity and meter off the sidewalk. Absolute street machine. I would also carry the Olympus XA-2 on me for quick shots at a "between" focal length of 40mm. That is my favorite camera ever because it just always gets the shot (only 3 focus settings; sometimes simpler is just better).
Now I'm moving (building up to) two Fuji x-pro 3's with a Ricoh GRIII as my digital alternative to the XA-2 (not in focal length, obviously, but general functionality). I carry my cameras on Optitech padded foam straps with the actual neck strap removed so both cameras sit tucked right behind my arms/shoulders - makes it really easy to quickly sight down the viewfinder and then they disappear when not in use. Also, since we are already shooting on primes with everything pre-focused and pre-metered (for the most part), and I am very familiar with 24mm and 50mm focal lenghts, sometimes it is totally acceptable to shoot "blind" or from the hip.... The 24 especially. I find the FD 24mm to be super versatile and a great general reportage lens. I also just got the nFD 17mm f/4 which is going to be a lot of fun (especially being at basically f/2.8 with the speedbooster)
This is my fav comment so far! Brilliant mate! Thanks for this experience!
Great comparison Mark! Never thought of testing an older lens before deciding whether you want to invest in expensive version of it is a good approach for beginners! The FD lens is still an amazing value!
Thanks Kyle! Definitely agree, it was the FD lens that convinced me the 24 was for me. Would have rather got the FD 1.4 L series, but dang thing is more $$$ than this EF lens.
Another great vid, thank you Mark! I have the FD 24/2.8, 28/2.8, and 50/1.4. The 50 is significantly crisper than the other two. But that said, the 24/2.8 is sharp enough. This is especially true if you might be using it as I am, with a speed booster that shrinks the image and thus creates more (apparent?) sharpness. And for video, which seems to be a bit more forgiving than still photography.
Given my use, here is what I find interesting: You said the 1.4 lens needs to be stopped down to f/2.8 to begin to shine, and the 2.8 should be stopped down to f/4 to start looking nice (I agree). So when I throw my speed booster on an f/4 setting, I'm netting an f/2.8. Thus the 1.4 on a full frame vs. the 2.8 with booster on a smaller format camera end up at the very same aperture, with at least somewhat more comparable image quality. Feel like testing that head-to-head out?
Fun video Mark! Just wanted to offer a few thoughts:
1. I had a local camera repair shop pull a damaged filter with some pliers. He was slow and careful, but came it out with much less fanfare than you might expect.
2. These 24/1.4 L's have a first gen version that can be purchased at a great value. I scored one a few months ago at a Hunt's in Boston for $500. As in the vintage game, you just need to stay vigilant.
3. I see you shooting with a Fuji which is what I am using. I find that through a speed booster there's a little loss in frame- it probably comes out to something like 25 or 26mm. So you technically do shave a little of the vignette off as compared to going straight to another full frame camera. On my Black Magic I believe I get something more like 30mm and there's no vignetting in the frame.
4. All that in the pot, I still plan to grab a 50/1.2 FD and convert it to EF :)
Nice one Mark as always 👍😊
I've removed bent filters before. Easiest solution that is slightly risky is to get a wire cutter and snip the filter as close as you can get to the threading. Repeat a few times. You should be able to get it weak enough at that point you can pull towards the element and pry it off.
Thanks mate! I’ve tried a bit but given up because of fear factor. Need to overcome it lol.
Really love the edit chops on show here great job. I think you get a lot of lens for the price when you use those fd lens. I really think they nailed the design of that series.
Thanks Wesley, my timeline is a disaster lol, but the edit is smooth. Better than a sloppy edit and an organized timeline I think. ;)
Ya FD are fantastic.
I don't have the money for the EF, but I think that if I had it, I would only buy it because of the autofocus. That's the game changer in my opinion.
When using them for photography only, I always think vintage lenses are the obvious choice. But, we have to consider video of course.
Great video Mark. You are an amazing editor. I convinced some friends to follow you, and despite them not having any camera, they love your videos!
Funny I think the opposite, but I’ve been manual focusing video since I started basically so it’s a no brainer for me. Prefer it actually. I totally feel you though mate.
As always informative and interesting. Since I'm on a shoestring budget the FD lens, and it would still be one of the more expensive lenses in my kit.
Keep an eye out, I go by EBAY prices which tend to be a bit on the high end. They can be seen for as low as $40....the hunt is on ;)
Great video man. Always great stuff. I'm loving the FD lens. I really want to come up with a set of these. Maybe 3 or 4 lenses in that set.
24, 35, 50, 85 100 and maybe the 135....GO! ;)
@@MarkHoltze I'll probably end at 85 or the 135mm. Have they made anything below 24mm for the FDs? I think I've seen an 18mm or a 14mm but I'm not sure
It’s a tough call, because they’re so very different. But for certain if you (or someone) didn’t already own a 24mm then the canon is a great choice. It’s really solid and pleasing for what is just $100. Great video, loved seeing the outdoors too, makes me optimistic for the summer.
So very different. Outdoors has been nice, finding places where people aren't has been a full time past time. I biked all over hell's half acre here lol. All before the bugs have come out, but tonight it seems mosquitos have all risen from their swampy nesting places and hungry for blood.
Forest shoots may have to be suspended for a bit.
Hey Mark, I am very much into macro photography and recently delved into the vintage lens world and have been highly entertained by your fountain of knowledge. I have gathered a few lenses , Hellos 44, Pentacon 50mm f/1.8 and Carl Zeiss Jena Pancolar. Which vintage lenses do you consider to be a great for macro and what notable lens has a good minimum focus distance? I am loving the Pentacon but always keen to know if I am missing out on another vintage gem ..
Depending how warped the filter is id SUGGEST using a residue free tape to safe guard the glass, use a dremel or some sort of other precision cutting tool to create to parallel grooves across fro. Eachother and use a cheap knife like a butter knife with a strong blade or a putty knife to pry it off by unscrewing it. Make sense?
This, terrified to power tool next to glass...but it is the only way I believe. Thanks mate!
was this lens modded to EF or on an adapter ?
FD to L adapter, EF was EF to L adapter.
You do get autofocus/ aperture control and probably image stabilization on the EF lens so that's something else to consider.
Ibis takes care a lot of the issues with stabilization now if your camera has it. But ya auto features are a luxury of modern glass. You can still get auto shutter control however.
@@MarkHoltze yeah I don't have ibis.
Before I even watch. I must say the vintage lenses like this and Nikkor D series, I appreciate the DOF measurements on the lens. Being able to manually focus is a lot easier on them.
Agreed, I also love the F/STOP markings be on the lens itself as well. I'm glad they're starting to put those back on the lens, it's a lens function after all and also gives a COOL factor to the lenses too lol.
DOF measurements are perfect for shooting from the hip as well!
@@MarkHoltze absolutely. Not to rip on Jared Polin but he thinks the LCD screen on lenses is a waste. I actually like the new tech also b/c at night I can't see the DOF markings.
@@dct124 Completely not a waste, if he's using auto focus (which he is i believe) i can see maybe why he would say that, but his style of photography does not represent everyones. I find it hard to make any claims outside of my own personal tastes because everybody is different.
He's a much better photographer and a bigger youtuber than I am so i respect his opinion even though I don't share it :)
We're definitely not the majority i don't think ;)
@@MarkHoltze true I prefer manual focusing. I'll occasionally use AF if I only have one hand otherwise with the markings I can set focus and DOF without the viewfinder as long as I know distance I can set focus off feel which to me is now so priceless. I can do it down to F2. I think old event film photographers used to do it too. I can set everything without a meter now too.
To remove the stuck on broken filter, cover the front element, the use a dremel and carefully cut it. I had this issue with a stuck on UV on my 10-22, cause my tripod fell over and landed face first, also the filter was not broken, so I had to break it, again carefully, to remove it before the surgery could begin.
I just like the FD better - probably only me, but I like 'unreal' amounts of contrast and for tube-macro video work in low light (stabilised on tripod, with extra lighting added), the FD just makes a better buy.
ya I like the natural contrast as well, the colours being a bit more saturated are interesting as well. Makes grading video a little trickier vs the EF, but only by a bit.
Take a file on its edge and file some notches into the top of the filter's ring. Then use a thin bar that fits the groove much like a super wide flathead screwdriver. Just keep nudging it until it finally gives away.
open heart surgery lol....until I do it and maybe it won't be so bad. Thanks mate! Appreciate it!
Nice video comparison
Thanks Paul
Once sawn / weakened at the point of impact / damage, I used two pliers to widen the broken filter. Ok, I was not alone, us two guys pulled each end of the filter away. In the end, once a few centimetres (an inch) apart, it slips quite easy...
So, Mark. Is the EF 24 focus by wire? Or mechanical focus?
EF by wire, FD mechanical
I love Fd lenses, i have a couple of 50mm (1.8 and 1.4) a 28mm 2.8 and a 3.5 and a 35mm, love those prime lenses
Love them too! How do you like the 35?
Hey Mark, any consideration when picking up a vintage version from ebay besides visual conditions? Year maybe?
Depends, I think the biggest thing is Lens condition, and reputation of the seller. The year will matter only in which variant of a lens you’re looking at. Make sure no fungus, minimal or no haze and decent physical condition.
What adapter for the FD Lense you used on the S1H?
Simmod EF adapter. No glass, just hard mounts to the back.
Hey man, what adapter FD to Eos are you using? I heard there's some problems with glass elements in FD adapters. Thanks
BTW: your narration cleaned up a lot! I love the way you evolve as a RUclipsr. 🖖 kudos
Hard mount EF adapter on the FD lens. Simmod one. Just screws on, it's easy and turns FD into an EF and there is no issue because I'm not using a DSLR. It's the mirrored cameras that have the adapting issue, cinema cameras, mirrorless ones have always been good. Just finding the adapter that works is a bit of a pain ;)
Is it still wide on apsc ? It becomes 35mm apsc equivalent right?
35mm which is the EDGE of what a "wide angle lens" is defined as. 35 is pretty great though, it's good for pretty much everything.
Apart from not being aspherical that make the edges not as sharp because the focus line curve, fd is doing really well. Colour and contrast can be easily adjust, i prefer lenses with lower contrast even because I can pushed a bit extra detail in certain circumstances.
Btw for the filter stuck use wd40 don't spray it directly, spray into small container, and use toothpick or screw driver to put it. Then use jar opener, or just use jar opener mostly find. To use jar opener if you have trouble, position the grip on the left and right side of the scruffy bit of the filter. Filter might be slightly elipse and pressing this area to open should help.
Agreed, it's a big reason why I like the Contax Zeiss line for me cinema lenses, fairly neutral in terms of contrast and colour so you can push that bit farther when grading. Leica R's are also very popular for some DP's, but more pronounced natural colour and contrast looks nice, but tougher to push the grade.
Thanks so much for the filter advice!
Cool comparison! I recently adapted the FD 28mm f2.8 to my 5dii body! Not sure why but there’s weird artifacts, colors can be quirky, and vertical lines get slanted towards the edges. Do you think using a mirrorless body would help? I still got some cool images. I’m on a constant quest to get the film look with digital
I love this so so much. Off topic but do you think it would be possible to confer EF to FD - I know you’d lose a lot of control (likely have to set the aperatire ahead of time on a modern canon body and then shoot it fixed on the vintage body) but i would love to see that
That would be interesting, I wonder. I'm sure it can be done, people are making ice lenses work with cameras , I'm sure this could be done.
One annoying thing about the EF lens when setting aperture on a modern body, it seems to default to "wide open" when you remove it from any sort of electrical camera connection. I had this issue when adapting it to my Sony, I could only ever shoot it at F/1.4 no matter what aperture I set it at before hand on the modern body.
I should re-visit it and see if I can trouble shoot that though.
Thanks for stopping by Cody!
What in the world? How did you split the timeline into segments?
What do you mean? I want to answer your question, but can you a bit more specific?
Mark Holtze on the playback it’s segmented into “Introduction”, “Canon FD,” “Canon EF 24mm”
Ohhhh right. Time codes in the description so it chapters it out for easy viewing. Makes it easier to skip to the relevant parts. :)
Did your dog chew the filter thread off?
Very well done video as always!
😂 camera fell and the filter broke the fall. Gorilla pods are garbage, write that down.
@@MarkHoltze never used one and never will😁
Mark, I have what I thought was an FD lens but ti will not mount on my FD to EF adapter, were there different generations of this mount?
FL perhaps? Came before FD. It should say FD on the lens I think if it is an FD. What lens is it?
Mark Holtze actually I have two of them that I picked up at an estate sale. Neither say FD. One is a CPC 80-200mm 4.0 and the other is a Venus 28mm 2.8, I don’t think either lens is anything special
I've definitely noticed my FD lenses shoot a more "dreamy" quality of photo and video -- both in warmth of colours and in the super shallow depth of field they seem to have when mounted to my DSLR
Will you review nikkor vintage lenses Mark Holtze
I think Nikkor's might be the next set I look at purchasing, i've been a bit on lockdown for buying stuff lately, but I should definitely take a look at some Nikkor's. Thanks mate.
I've got my Tamron FE 28-75 F2.8 for my A7iii, wondering an FD 24mm could expand my coverage =]
Before that, I'm doing research, looking for a character 35mm... my list are Mir-1 37mm f2.8; CZJ Flektogon 35 2.8 or 2.4 ; and your beloved Takumar 35 f2.0
I have the FD 28mm and I really like it.
That 24mm EF looks like it's had a lot of love ;) I looooove that lens so much. I think the biggest thing about the 24mm f1.4 is the video capabilities-- it's soooo legit for low light. But that said, the FD version is still such a legit lens. I use mine on my Sony allllll the time.
Absolutely. It’s all I use it for really.
Very good!! What do you think of a comparison of Canon EF 24mm f / 1.4 Vs Olympus Zuiko 24 f2.8? thankful
Have you ever used any of the Topcor lenses? I just got the Topcor RE, 3.5 cm f2.8 and 10 cm F2.8 for free, and looking online a bit they seem like they'll be incredible lenses, just waiting to get my adapter in the mail.
Have never used an FD to EF converter before. I'm seeing the one you linked is very basic, compared to a handful of others. Lacking glass, does that mean it no longer has the infinity focus? The ones I'm seeing that allow infinity focus also mention having a 1.4 crop factor...which I definitely do not like.
The one I linked is an M42 to EOS, not FD to EF just to be clear. That's the reason why it's "basic" and not needing glass element because M42 lenses don't have infinity focus issues like FD's do on EOS cameras.
I've got that crop factor adapter and I don't like it, dont' recommend it. FD to EOS just isn't a great combo, better saved for EF-M or RF and maybe explore other glass brands that arent' FD for EF mounted cameras.
I reviewed that very adapter in an older video, Shooting FD on EOS cameras or something. Canon RF cameras are bringing Canon FD lenses back to canon bodies. They kind of denied their older FD lenses with the whole EF system unfortunately.
to remove the filter you can cut two small notches opposite each other with a Dremel (or even a file) and use a metal ruler across them to lever it off. definitely clamp the lens down.
Nice one Mark, good to see the difference that extra money gets. Very interesting, you can def see the sharpness difference and the light it absorbed through the trees was pretty cool too. i'd def like to try one out , i think thats why i use my sigma lens on my m50 so much super clear and precise. but when you need that character cant beat the vintage girls !
definitely. I almost didn't shoot that thinking i wouldn't see a difference (lens comparison shots are probably my least favourite to do)...i hate shooting brick walls and literature for the sake of a test because it's not really "real world" but it's hard to get samples that are identical for deep analysis.
@@MarkHoltze true that mate s always amazing edit to make me always want to get better.
Nice video!
Thanks Mario!
Sweet, Thanks!
Can you do a video on a Canon FD 55mm ssc F/1.2 lens vs Canon EF 50mm F/1.2 lens. A plus also check if it is radioactive!
Oooh boy, those 50mm f1.2 aspherical radioactive lenses go for SOOOO much money...
(However, they are the creme de la creme of Canon quality glass.)
The Canon nFD 50mm f1.2 L is not radioactive. Only the older 55mm F1.2 silver breech lock FD Aspherical version is radioactive.
if I can ever get my hands on them....most def!!!
@@caldera878 That was my understanding as well, but there is a lot of disinformation out there, especially on what lenses are radioactive.
@@caldera878 OH SNAP! You are right. I was thinking of the 55mm. Good catch. I stopped researching classic Canon glass about a year ago when I saw the price jump. I'll stick with f1.8s and f2.0s and such.
I'd pick the FD just for the price advantage. I'm biased because I already like vintage lenses and I'm also broke as hell. As for sharpness and vignetting, I could easily stop it down :P no biggie
CAREFUL, LOG!
Price advantage goes a long way right? I mean $1500 for a prime (despite how fast it is, how good it is) is quite limiting in terms of who gets to play with it. Wide angle lens like this stopping down is usually an advantage the focal length can benefit from anyway. Landscapes = lots of elements in focus, best way to get that is stopping down, like WAYYYY down ;)
LOG!!!!!
the idea of a large aperture is for boketh, depth of field, low light etc stopping down eliminates the reason for it in the first place.
No, get a vintage lens that performs perfectly wide open. THAT is the prize you seek
Does one exist? I would say yes, but it would vary depending on people’s preferences. Digital age makes peeping those flaws much easier.
There is something of beauty in vintage lenses. We have gotten into this world of perfectionisms where we see every zit on a person's face as if women want to see that! The great movies like Casablanca used softening filters to get that dreamy and creamy, gorgeous look and grain peeping was not high priority. Sure today's lenses are awesome, autofocus is amazing, the science is superb, cinema lenses over $20k. I understand their reasons - breathing, chromatic color separations in the out of focus areas, sharpness corner to corner and for a $50m film, this is cheap as borsch.
But man, some of these old lenses are gold. Manual yes, but the look is what one is after. I have a set of Zeiss lenses that go back 30 years and sure, they ain't perfect, but when put side by side with new lenses, there is just something about them i can't explain - just better, not sharper or other features, but just different in a nice way.
Interesting... Got some FD lenses along with my old AE-1 - What adapter(s) are available/recommended to play with these on my EOS RP ?
I would use a dremel to cut the filter off, making sure to cut tiny amounts off until you can just break it off.
I need a dremel!!! To the hardware store! ;) thanks mate! I’m thinking this is the best bet
@@MarkHoltze I would buy the cheapo $22 kit at Walmart, I just bought one recently to replace my last cheap one I left my parents house. Works fine, of you want to be cheap.
Comes with the little cut off wheels, and they are fragile if you put force on them not in a 90 degree angle. So just let it spin up, touch the part you want to cut, let it gouge the material, and just keep going till you can break it and spread the filter ring off since it is threaded.
I would also cover areas you do not want to cut with painters tape. Give you a little layer of protection from slips.
I use wide angles mainly for travel, then the EF 24 (or equally sized) lenses would never be used. The FD seems like a nice balance of size, optical performance, and price - much like the S-M-C Takumar 24mm F3.5 :)
Yes it's a good balance, and the nice thing about landscapes is they don't really move around much so nailing focus isn't that challenging if you can count on your eyes, or camera has decent manual focus assists.
The Tak 24mm 3.5 i'm seeing for $175-$380...i would have picked one up, but I don't need another 24 that badly ;)
There is Canon FD 24mm F1.4 S.S.C and is like almost 3X the price of the EF 24mm f1.4 L, if it's in mint condition.
All great lenses but different rendering
Yes, I would love to compare those two, the 24mm FD L series is also a good match up, but again price is so inflated due to scarcity it's a little tricky. 3 grand Canadian that's being asked for now lol....maybe one day i'll get a loaner ;)
@@MarkHoltze agreed but the lens is a keeper, and is comparable to canon K35 series lens.
Would like to see a compare of the K35, FD and EF someday.
Why didn't you compare it to the FD asph 24mm 1.4? Anyway, another great vid!
The FD 1.4 goes for $3000 CND on eBay and don’t want to spend that much on an old lens. I have both of these and it’s a video I wanted to make for awhile, let the audience see where the value lies between the two lenses and make their own judgements.
I can’t compare what I don’t own :)
Does vintage lenses have AE?
Auto exposure, yes your sensor should be able to detect the light for exposure.
I had that awesome 24 nfd. Just never drop it because its really easy to kill this lens. this particular lens suffer of "bushing", really easy to mess up and really hard to tight barrles and fix it.
I need to finally order adapter for my 50mm FD lens. Your videos are pushing me to right direction. Oatmeal was good btw.
mmmmm! Love a good oatmeal! Yes it's time to adapt mate, make it so number 1
Feel better now that the “itch” has been “scratched”😁? Optics most important, but price comparison would help more when vintage tag is expressed in terms of current dollar equivalent. Put another way, how long would you have had to work (back when vintage was introduced) to buy the vintage and how long today to buy the contemporary lens? Love the sunset silhouettes BTW.
I can’t compare those metrics, and part of why it’s an apples to oranges comparison. This is the market we are all living in and can relate most profoundly to.
You can’t even compare any vintage lens to a modern one based on the fact designs, and optics/glass has changed. But in terms of experimenting, the FD does a great job for the investment and may help inform a bigger purchase down the line.
I bought the L because of how Lucy I liked the 24. This was my third vintage lens. Really wanted the FD 24 1.4 but it’s more expensive than the modern one. Imagine doing the price equivalent on current dollar at $2200 usd in 2020? ;) $20,000 lens in 1980 ;)
pro tip: use wire cutters and trim small pieces off the broken filter. messy, but better than the potato trick.
Potato won’t work, it’s bent on there pretty good lol. Will try this pro tip, thanks mate!
@@MarkHoltze no problem. had to do this with an FD lens, it came off. 1cm or less per cut seemed to work best.
Mark Holtze, this review reminds me of the old danish saying
,, there are two kinds of girls, the seductive you have a hot romance with (= canon fd)
and the girl you marry (= canon ef)
Hi, both lenses have their place and style. You know I like vintage glass :)
I think using either lens depends on the individual and the type of stylistic/artistic look one is going for....more importantly; the fun and enjoyment involved ;)
Absolutely!!! Nicely stated my friend
@@MarkHoltze By the way, I have the Sigma 24 f1.4 art lens (Canon Mount). I don't use it very often but it is an extremely amazing lens, rather quite sharp at 1.4 with smooth and beautiful bokeh.
As an amateur the FD lens is by far the better choice. You get to learn the skills behind manual focusing, and working around imperfect shooting conditions. Honestly I would only buy the EF lens if I had A). A shit ton of money to burn, or B). Were a grade above professional. For someone like me who is broke and amateur, it makes a lot more sense to collect older cheaper lenses. Id rather have 6 old primes.
Agree with you mate! Learn SO much using these manual lenses. How the lens functions actually change your picture.
Try a zip tie, it might not work since it looks pretty bent, worth a shot first though. If not, use some gaff tape to protect your lens and cut out the bent area with a dremel or something similar, then try the zip tie again.
At the end of the day is a matter of taste. Technically speaking the new lens generation are better corrected. But many of the Canon FD lenses are used for video because of the look it gives to the images.
Agreed, taste is subjective and I think that's the best part about it. Keeps things variable and interesting.
I agree with your conclusions.
You concur, excellent. :)
Canon FD 24 f1.4 L? That lens is around 3-4K on eBay.
It's crazy, would have originally liked to compare these, but I don't have that kind of money for an FD lens ;)
A collector's item at a collectors price. It's crazy.
It is, saw a Contax Zeiss 55mm 1.2 for 10 grand on eBay
Hey, Mark. Do you think editing images like sharpenning and removing flaring is cheating? And can you save your money by just sharpenning your image shot with 100$ lens with only editing software?
These two lenses aren't the same. The difference is not only the age, the autofocus and the price but these lenses are totally differents, different construction. Some lenses have a very huge front element (e.g. Flektogon zebra 25/4), but the rear element is very small. Other vintage lens (e.g. my Vivitar 24/2.8) is a very tiny. Don't understand what roles plays the different size frontlens. But now my best friend is a (fullframe) Samyang 24/1.4, this lens has a huge front and rear lenses and huge weight, and high quality.
Right as stated it’s an apples to
Oranges comparison. Also stated are the optical formulas that are different, completely different lenses. But for many the price and what you get for that price is all that matters.
Wide angle lenses let in a lot of light from a larger FOV, they’re among the most challenging to do right so there needs to be room for proper corrective elements to reconstruct that image on the sensor.
Faster lenses have larger diameters to accommodate the room needed for the aperture to double in size for every stop.
Yeah the FD is 95% there but if your on a budget or you do film photography that it’s the one you should have until you could afford it, but I would’ve thought the color on the FD would be better, but technology has certainly changed since the 70’s, or at least the purification process of glass for sharpness
Age being a factor too maybe. 1984 this one.
I think next you should compare the EF 85mm and FD 85mm f1.2L
Don’t tempt me, my wallet lol.
Mark Holtze yeah like 3000 dollars later😂😭
@@technol-bismol3778 I know a few people who might be able to lend me one. I might not even want to in case it gets "lost in mail" that's a hot ticket lol.
Mark Holtze yeah that’s what scares me with those high ticket items, but if I get one I’ll lend it to you with the OG Canon F-1 from 1971
By and large my experience has been that modern lenses on wider focal lengths usually work overall better - atleast on the sony FF mirrorless. However these vintage lenses were made at the time of film cameras and optics was not measured by the criteria today - also many modern lenses are corrected by the in camera profile so if one does that with vintage lenses the results can be astonishing. I also find that withthe development of sensor - processor technology some of these older lenses may perform better on newer sensors-processors ( i had the experience with some of my vintage lenses when I upgraded from the sony a7r2 to the 4). On the other hand with new 3rd party lenses for the sony system the price range has been reduced (weight too) and there are many more interesting and far cheaper options. It will take more time for the newer mirrorless systems to develop a more evolved lens range. As to the above comparison the EF lens is clearly the winner but whether it is worth that extra is another question.
Have you ever tried the 24mm FD L? That might be an unteresting comparison
I’d love to but that lens is going for like 3 grand lol
I got a 24mm f/2.8 "pancake" lens. A pretty good deal for about $115.
Use pliers to remove the damaged filter remains. As for the 24mm FD you missed a valuable point: they make great primes for the Canon M cameras. On a cropped sensor you are only getting the sweetest spot of the lens, plus the added bonus of manual focus making you slow down and think about what you are doing. Lots of FD lenses are fun to use and they all will give you that warmer less contrasty kind of image. The idea is the lens has character as opposed to clinical perfection. Lenses today need to have more character. The other thing is as the megapixels continue to climb and climb the glass needed to take full advantage of that becomes more sophisticated and consequently more analytically clinical. So, we can see that for most people, at some point, gigantic $2500 lenses don't make any sense in terms of a price/performance ratio. I think the most recent Canon M cameras at about 32 megapixels should be the place where they stop and instead concentrate on dynamic range and also IBIS and especially computational photography in-camera. For example, a selected depth of field automated control, and multi-exposure modes with blending and pixel shift should do as much as anyone would ever want. Frankly the lack of DOF information in the viewfinder in this day and age is kind of crazy. Only Fuji seems to address that aspect. FD lenses are quite nice for the money.
people tend be obsessed with newness and the belief technology makes always better with time
Optics are so close, it's auto focus and speed that really make the EF advantage I think. I agree though.
Nice to see
The EF looks flat and clinical with no character compared to the FD. I enjoyed the video. Thanks!
Thanks Bruce!
Underrated
It reminded me when I missed the opportunity to buy this lens for 40 $ sheam on me (|8
dang!
I'm no pro photo- or videographer so +500€ lenses are out of the question. I have a quite a collection of vintage glass that I can use on my Canon 5D2, BMPCC4, and Lumix GH80. I love the FD 24 2.8 and in most cases it performs perfectly. Obviously the f1.4 of the EF lens offers more creative possibilities. But the latter isn't worth the money, again, as a non-pro.
Let's compare apples to apples the FD 24mm F1.4L version with the EF version. Good luck getting the FD for under $1,500. Collectors holding up the price as the EF version will one day electronically break down.
I had a bit in my script where I mentioned the FD F/1.4 24 and saw the prices at $3000 CND so just cut it out. No way i'll get one to review at those prices. Beautiful lens though holy hell. 24 1.4, 50 1.2 and 85 1.2 FD L series would be a dream set for sure.
@@MarkHoltze Mirrorless users especially for video or film collectors are noticing how great the old FD L lenses are and the prices are not going down.
I still use my old analog 24mm. the softness at the edge is just one of its' characteristics that I embrace.
I don't mind it either, and stopping down cleans it up a bit more. I'm rarely framing anything of any worth at the edge of the frame and if I am, I'll set my manual focus point to that part of the frame and focus on it.
Edge to edge sharpness is a bit overrated, but it's a metric by which these lenses get reviewed I guess.
Surprised with FD...
Love pics..
Ya same, thanks mate.
5:03 THAT. THAT IS WHY WE SHOOT WITH VINTAGE GLASS.
35-105 3.5 FD lens review !!!!
It's sharp as L lens !
Good to know!!!!!’ Thanks Chris!