Do all the notches in one pass on a board wide enough for all the braces...with a table saw or radial arm saw. Then rip and sand the braces to width. Its easy enough to make fixtures for any spacing and for any thickness you want. I use accurately cut blocks for stops and different sized spacers for varying the thickness of the notch.
I've used lattice bracing on traditional looking classical guitars. I especially like how it works with cedar: stiffens it up so that the guitar sounds closer to a spruce top. Regardless of the wood choice for the soundboard, it has to be thinner if it is over a lattice pattern to compensate for the latter's inherent stiffness. Thanks for your comments.
Do all the notches in one pass on a board wide enough for all the braces...with a table saw or radial arm saw. Then rip and sand the braces to width. Its easy enough to make fixtures for any spacing and for any thickness you want. I use accurately cut blocks for stops and different sized spacers for varying the thickness of the notch.
@@wallpapermusique thanks for the suggestion!
@@zimnickiguitars311 🙂
Marvellous....I have build a machine to do braces for lattice
Thank you! What does your machine do? I would like to see it.
Great explanation. Not looking to poke the bee hive, but would you ever use lattice bracing on a tradition classical guitar, or would it be too stiff?
I've used lattice bracing on traditional looking classical guitars. I especially like how it works with cedar: stiffens it up so that the guitar sounds closer to a spruce top. Regardless of the wood choice for the soundboard, it has to be thinner if it is over a lattice pattern to compensate for the latter's inherent stiffness. Thanks for your comments.