Galen is a great teacher. And excellent at explaining "how to" in easy to understand terms for people who do not have decades of experience. I have learned more in the practical application and use of equipment in the last 4 years. And, I had decades of carpentry, electrical, auto mechanics and fine metal smithing (jewelry & art) before I came onboard. Every day I learn new things here.
@eugeneanderson7984 We are in West Concord MN. Give a shout out if you are in the area. We do have a video tour in our video library about a month or so ago.
You know that you can make a step drill reasonably easy. Buy a cheap drill that is the size of the counter bore, make sure the drill has a half inch shank. If you have a tool post grinder for your lathe the next part will be easier. Grind down about an inch, inch and a half, grind down to the drill diameter of the holes you want. Leave plenty of diameter for clearance for the screw body. Now you have a cutting edge on the tip but you'll need to put cutting clearance on the larger diameter. Go to your pedestal grinder and slowly ramp back from the edge. You could even add a countersink to the tool by starting with the major diameter of the countersink for your drill choice. If you don't have a tool post grinder for the lathe you can do the entire grind on a pedestal grinder. You would need to add clearance to the countersink portion of the drill like before. Seems like a lot of screwing around but once you made the tool you can use it forever especially if you're just cutting that plastic.
The description of feeding "into and out of" the work was very confusing to me. Were you trying to explain "Climb Milling " vs "Conventional Milling" ?
He was describing conventional. The insert or primary cutting edge goes into the the material head on. in climb cutting it is opposite to eliminate chatter in the backlash of the feed screw. Where as the tool would tend to pull the work in instead of pushing the work away. Learned about that when I tried a big mill cutter in my lathe. I bought a mill and made a couple fly cutters that would hold 3/8 in square insert type carbide lathe tools. Easy to make and worked well on Aluminum and Steel. Many different fly cutter configurations. This guy uses his mill every day and knows from experience what works. Safety is always a consideration. Metal flys when you are fly cutting.
@@martinnorbeck4657 Yes...I get that...but he did not use the words CONVENTIONAL MILLING........I like the video...but as a retired machine shop teacher, I found his attempt at describing it..."CLUMSY" sorry if I nit pick....I am more accustomed to TEXT BOOK LANGUAGE DESCRIBING CLIMB MILLING AND CONVENTIONAL MILLING...that's all....not looking for a fight....THANKS...
@@markclauss2314 I had no internet and am self taught. I assumed you were a student or a diy guy. I understood your confusion right away. My high school had industrial arts, but too many students for the time in the class.
I found that confusing as well, also if he pushed material into the center vs away from the center he would only have to deburr the ends instead of all 4 sides.
There is no doubt you have a command go the english language! You can speak brother! Hey, did you ever look into a wood working tool called a planer? I think that would be a quick easy solution to thinning down UHMW. It would be much faster than a mill for sure Craig.
I have debated on trying a planer, my worry is that they are usually very high RPM, and the plastic would likely get very hot, and potentially melt... it does happen if you spin your fly cutter too fast, so likely would be true for the planer as well.
@@galenkoeckeritz8488 if you would like you canned me a sample of the plastic and I can run it in my planer to see what would happen. just a thought. Craig
Just found this channel and love this type of content. Great job! Thanks for teaching us.
Galen is a great teacher. And excellent at explaining "how to" in easy to understand terms for people who do not have decades of experience. I have learned more in the practical application and use of equipment in the last 4 years. And, I had decades of carpentry, electrical, auto mechanics and fine metal smithing (jewelry & art) before I came onboard. Every day I learn new things here.
They make excellent products too!
Thank you Galen love your videos. I’ll buy you lunch if I can tour your shop. God Bless ya brother.
@eugeneanderson7984 We are in West Concord MN. Give a shout out if you are in the area. We do have a video tour in our video library about a month or so ago.
Good day Galen…best wishes from Florida…Paul
A power feed comes to mind!!
I was using in 1977 Same manual Bridge port type. Miss that machine
It is a tried and, true workhorse!
You know that you can make a step drill reasonably easy. Buy a cheap drill that is the size of the counter bore, make sure the drill has a half inch shank. If you have a tool post grinder for your lathe the next part will be easier. Grind down about an inch, inch and a half, grind down to the drill diameter of the holes you want. Leave plenty of diameter for clearance for the screw body. Now you have a cutting edge on the tip but you'll need to put cutting clearance on the larger diameter. Go to your pedestal grinder and slowly ramp back from the edge. You could even add a countersink to the tool by starting with the major diameter of the countersink for your drill choice. If you don't have a tool post grinder for the lathe you can do the entire grind on a pedestal grinder. You would need to add clearance to the countersink portion of the drill like before. Seems like a lot of screwing around but once you made the tool you can use it forever especially if you're just cutting that plastic.
Looks like you need an X axis power feed.
And a larger flycutter 😎
Good job
Love the info, but can you please put on some safety glasses.
Found the Karen. Thanks for looking out for safety mom. Not needed information as we all know the risk and decide when to take it.
My dad always told me complacency creates injuries. He was right. So does inattention.
Galen, you need to be an instructor of the trade.
i have done alot of machinnig wit fly cutters.I never broke a cutter. That would pucker me up if that happened
Preparing for Christmas? ;)
😂 Thinking of snow! Our primary product is snowplows. Personally, I don't love lots of heavy snowfalls. Professionally, I LOVE snow!
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,thanks........................................................
Isn't it a face mill once it has more than one cutter? I always thought it was only a flycutter only if it had one cutter?
The description of feeding "into and out of" the work was very confusing to me. Were you trying to explain "Climb Milling " vs "Conventional Milling" ?
He was describing conventional. The insert or primary cutting edge goes into the the material head on. in climb cutting it is opposite to eliminate chatter in the backlash of the feed screw. Where as the tool would tend to pull the work in instead of pushing the work away. Learned about that when I tried a big mill cutter in my lathe. I bought a mill and made a couple fly cutters that would hold 3/8 in square insert type carbide lathe tools. Easy to make and worked well on Aluminum and Steel. Many different fly cutter configurations. This guy uses his mill every day and knows from experience what works. Safety is always a consideration. Metal flys when you are fly cutting.
@@martinnorbeck4657 Yes...I get that...but he did not use the words CONVENTIONAL MILLING........I like the video...but as a retired machine shop teacher, I found his attempt at describing it..."CLUMSY" sorry if I nit pick....I am more accustomed to TEXT BOOK LANGUAGE DESCRIBING CLIMB MILLING AND CONVENTIONAL MILLING...that's all....not looking for a fight....THANKS...
@@markclauss2314 I had no internet and am self taught. I assumed you were a student or a diy guy. I understood your confusion right away. My high school had industrial arts, but too many students for the time in the class.
I found that confusing as well, also if he pushed material into the center vs away from the center he would only have to deburr the ends instead of all 4 sides.
Excellent, but where are your safety glasses?
I was thinking the same thing
There is no doubt you have a command go the english language! You can speak brother! Hey, did you ever look into a wood working tool called a planer? I think that would be a quick easy solution to thinning down UHMW. It would be much faster than a mill for sure Craig.
I have debated on trying a planer, my worry is that they are usually very high RPM, and the plastic would likely get very hot, and potentially melt... it does happen if you spin your fly cutter too fast, so likely would be true for the planer as well.
You typically use the machine you have and are familiar with. There's always more than one way to do any job.
@@galenkoeckeritz8488 if you would like you canned me a sample of the plastic and I can run it in my planer to see what would happen. just a thought.
Craig
No power feed