Drafting a Basic Sleeve From Measurements // Flat Pattern Drafting
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- In addition to last week's bodice patterning, here is how I would draft a sleeve pattern from scratch or measurements using the instructions in the book Patternmaking for Fashion Design.
Patternmaking For Fashion Design : www.barnesandn...
Used copies : www.abebooks.c...
Best sleeve video ever : • How to Modify Sleeves ...
On rejecting cap ease : fashion-incuba...
How to set in a sleeve : sewingworkshop....
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First, a disclaimer: So many of you have kindly offered to send me things, including vintage items you may have inherited, and I am so honored you would think of me and of course I do adore vintage treasures, however, unfortunately I only have so much storage space currently! So there is a chance that if something just wont work for me, or doesn't fit me etc, that I may not be able to keep all of your lovely things. Please only send things if you are okay with the possibility that I may donate items I just cannot keep. If you would prefer I put things that I can't keep into the TCH Etsy shop to help raise funds for me and the channel, please specify this in a note or letter in your parcel. Thank you so much!
Bianca Esposito
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Thank you for watching!
As a "noob" sewist, I really appreciate your explanation at the end about adjusting to increase range of motion fit. I would have NO clue how to do that, and it would absolutely drive me insane! I really like the way you've explained this. My next thing is drafting my basic blocks, and I think I may get the book you have, and follow your videos to make mine. Thank you so much! I want to learn how to sew by drafting my own patterns, not by buying patterns , as those things drive me absolutely insane and I'm way too much of a rough handler for that tissue paper. Plus, I want to design my own clothing, and styles, that there really won't be paper patterns for. I am protesting fast fashion and will be making all of my own clothes from now on, and upcycling materials as much as I can. I want to make my clothes my way, with little features I want in them. Such as specifically designed pockets for my things I have to always have with me, etc. I am disabled, and no longer work and have the time to do so, and am free to wear whatever I darn well please. One of the very few advantages I get from being chronically ill. Again, thank you! Off to find the book you reference here 😀
Hi Penelope,
If I can offer a suggestion to go with your goal of upcycling for your muslins/mock ups a great resource is the linen section at a thrift store. Ugly old bedsheets are perfect for chopping up to try out a pattern's fit. Just always be sure to wash everything in hot water the second you bring it into your home, or even at a laundromat before you get home.
❤️
I have noticed that most modern clothes have much lower armpit seams, I think it's because with stretchy clothes it's not as much of an issue. But historical stuff needed the right for range of movement, since the fabric didn't give as much.
Exactly!
exactly, this is also the same answer i got from my pattern making instructor when I also run with the fit issues of the sleeves and armhole with this method.
It drives me nuts! Nothing ever fits me correctly. Off the rack that is.
Thank you so much for these basic pattern drafting videos! And my god, I’m sooo glad I use the metric system. XD
I have my bodice block fitted to me, and now I will work on sleeves over the weekend. I have the Helen Joseph Armstrong book you mentioned, and it has been great!!
Really liked this--an understanding of how patterns are developed.
Just starting sewing with only the class I had in middle school as a guide. I love your tutorials! You're a great teacher and fun to watch. Love the humor and the precise skill you have. Thank you for your tutorials!!
Thanks for these videos. I have referring to them a lot. I was in design school in the early 90’s and even though we used this book as a reference, we usually draped the bodice block then put it to paper. It’s been nice to dig out the old text books and see what else I missed.
I swear I love binge watching your videos... I learn so much from you. Thank you for doing these.
I've been sewing since before the internet, and I can heartily second that the internet is an incredible resource. I used to have to go through several fitting books to find the right issue, if it was in my collection at all. Finding how to fix stuff took longer than running up the pattern!
In these days of Covid-19 doom, I much rather see you, beautiful Bianca, at your table of doom. My husband and I, being elderly, are home-bound here in Wa. state, except for walks far from anyone else.
Thank you thank you THANK YOU for this!!
I’m attempting to make my own bodice block at the moment after putting it off for 3 months because I’ve been so nervous about drafting and fitting the sleeves! These videos along with the ones Cathy Hay is putting out have helped me enormously! Thank you so much ♥️
This is an excellent tutorial. It really helps me to understand the sleeve basics which has always been a challenge for me.....and I definitely will be lowering my sleeve caps a bit on my shirts in the future!
Thank you Rob!
This was a bit beyond my skill level but very informative and a nice break from the news lol. Thanks, Bianca!
I've made a couple top now using your al in one sleeve intructions and now I feel like I've graduated to bein ready to draft a separate sleeve for my bodice! one step at a time! thank you for your videos as always!
Thank you. I just finished my first block set using your other method. going to use it first...then try this later. Maybe a video on how to come up with own designs...those little figure drawings
The way you cut the armscye up higher is exactly how dresses and bodices were made in mid- and late-Victorian times. When I used to make costumes for the Frontier Culture Museum of Virginia, I tried to increase range of motion by cutting the arms lower and wider. I found out what I was doing wrong when I started doing some 1880s clothing. And those are some honking serious scissors!
These scissors double as my potential zombie apocalypse weapon ha!
@@TheClosetHistorian 🤭 so cute!
If you wanted to expand on this and do a sleeve fitting video (for everyone or as a Patreon exclusive) that would totally be appreciated! I know seeing your muslins for the bodice block really helped me fit mine, especially since you were fitting on yourself and not someone else. I feel like I'm stuck in Sleeve Block Hell right now.
My take away from this is really to make sure you have a sleeve block at the same time as you make the bodice block. At the end, where you show the relationship between the sleeve cap depth and range of arm motion, which. is very crucial, and also a counter intuitive thing. Its literally the opposite of what you think happens. Excellent information.
Would you consider doing a whole tutorial on maximizing range of movement in the shoulder area for fitted, non-stretch garments? It is one of the biggest problems I run into when buying off-the-rack and when following commercial patterns! Thank you for this great tutorial.
I'm very late, but historical garment patterns are great for this. Otherwise it's generally much higher arm holes and sort of a puff sleeve-esque sleeve at the shoulder. Men's/women's dress/tuxedo shirts may help.
The cut on gusset sleeve is awesome. You can adjust it with any sleeve and sew it up.
You're spoiling us, thank you 😳
I don't know anything about sewing or patterning, but I enjoy these videos. I'm learning something new. 😀
Thank you Andrea!
Very nice demonstration! I ordered the book from your link as it looks very useful. It helps to see the visual demonstration as well. And lucky you getting to use your paper scraps. My kids confiscate mine to use for coloring and cutting. And then I have to sweep up tiny paper scraps from everywhere.
Thanks. Ready-made blouses and most patterns just don't fit my arms so the more knowledge to adapt, the better.
I loved this and will try my own to fit the bodice sloper I JUST finished!❤
I just gotta say I love what you’re making
so helpful thank you! The book is fantastic but confusing, your experience is so valuable thank you for sharing!
Very useful, explaines a lot , especially why making the armhole "smaller" makes it easier to move the arm, which I have not grasped why before :)
Thank you!
Your makeup is always beautiful, you inspired my tired depressed ass to use the eyeliner today;) thank you!
Thank you!
Exactly what I was wishing for, thank you!!
We use the same book at my school. Great breakdown of the sleeve sloper.
Nice and clear directions, hope you're staying safe and well,
Thank you Lesley! Same to you
Such a thorough video! Very much beyond my skill level right now but I am so grateful for this resource. I love what you explained about ease and the range of motion. I hate when I can't move my arms all the way forward for example. Great work!
Thank you Barbie!
Great seeing you again. I hope you and your family are doing well during lockdown. Great video as always!
Thank you Dawn!
sleeve ease seems to be a contested topic with tailors. i've been looking around for sleeve drafting tips, and it's like half of the people say to include it, and the other half say not to. after trying to cram an extra 1 inch of sleeve ease into an armhole, i am also on the side of "no sleeve ease whatsoever" lol
Thank you for sharing, especially how to adjust range of motion. That would drive me nuts
Please do another sleeve tutorial for the best mobility, its realy hard to find resources.
Hi Bianca!! Excellent vlog.. This tremendously helped me....
💜💜💜🧵🧵🧵
Would you do some 'by the decade' look books starting with your 20's dresses and then moving forward from there? You've done similar to that, but not exactly and I would LOVE to see your closet from that perspective.
I'm afraid I just don't have enough for the 20's or 30's to do such a thing really, perhaps one day when I've got more balance between all the decades!
@@TheClosetHistorian Rather than the Chemise style 'flapper' dress, I would think you would look lovely in a Lanvin Robe de Style: rounded neckline and a slightly fitted bodice with a full skirt with a wide waist band that sat lower than the natural waist. www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/157340
@@TheClosetHistorian oh, and the garsonne look with some lovely suits!
Thank you very much ! The explanation was very clear.
I may have to draft a pattern even if I don’t sew, just to show off!🤣 I really think I could do it after watching your videos! I enjoyed the process. Also, you look very pretty in this video. I really like your broach too.🤗💕💕
Thank you Evelyn!
I am such an idiot. I have lost count of how many iterations of sleeve I have created this week using various methods, and I couldn't get them to fit. And then you said the bit about your bodice block already having seam allowance included ... duh. Back to my own version of the blue drafting table of doom. Thank you!!
The link you showed on rejecting sleeve cap ease shows a sleeve cap that has the bell curve moved a bit further back, as though about an inch of the back has been cut off and moved to the front. This basically places the side seam of the bodice more toward the back of the armpit.
Great video. Thank you.
Are we really done? Heavens no! As I walked my pattern to watch on horror that my front bodice doesn’t match by about 3 inches!!!! Yup it was late and I walked the collar😒. Once I walked the arm hole it was pure perfection! Thanks for the tutorial.
When you said "O to P" I suddenly had to.
Also the R 2 D . . . 2 had me giggling.
i went to school and i know all of this yet i watched the entire video lmao
Excellent
this was great, thanks Bianca :)
Thanks Kaz!
@@TheClosetHistorian oh I just had to share, I just found a 2nd hand (as new) copy of the book Pattern Making for Fashion Design on ebay! For only $US34! That's Aus $54. So happy about it, can't wait to try drafting my own patterns!
Ohhhhhhhhh thank khiuuuuu😇
This was so interesting but so much maths, I don’t think pattern making is for me. I made my first skirt last month from a pattern and have no clue how to alter it because it doesn’t fit properly the wait is about an inch too big I am very curvy need to figure that out eek xx
I'm planning to make the 1920s 1hr dress for my Mum & using a beaded overlay (fine hex mesh base). The beading design has a direction. The 1hr dress just has "rectangles" for sleeves in that T shape. Could I just cut that off to use as a pattern piece to get the beads pattern hanging in the right direction (adding seam allowance to stitch back on) or would I have to shape it differently for adding the sleeve like that?
So, in my head, the dart in the back of the sleeve would make it curve in the wrong direction. Am I just whacko? I would have thought that would go on the inside of the elbow. I want to make one up now to see what happens haha. I got this book from abebooks when I first started following you so I love when you point out how to use it 😊❤️
Lacy Minoux that part that says “back” will come around and be seamed to the front at the elbow, I believe. So the dart will end up at the inside of the sleeve and create the necessary angle.
I'm interested in where the balance is between a high enough sleeve cap and mobility. I mean, there must be a point where a too short sleeve cap height will pull over the shoulder and make the sleeve feel uncomfortable even if you can raise your arm.
Just found your channel and your approach is very interesting. I have some questions and would appreciate your feedback. First Q is does this book comes with a metric system as well? My 2nd Q : I'm a beginner sewist. I understand your concept of drafting a sloper according to my measurements and then changing it and make my own patterns, but how can I know how to change my sloper? Is there a way of knowing how to do that without having some knowledge in fashion desgin? I feel like it's very complicated and I'm afraid of getting frustrated...
are these add ons example on the sleeve cap the same for all sizes? Just found your channel and really like it!
I'm trying to work with same book for the sleeve block right now and found out u made a video about it which I was thrilled abt since I LOVE your channel! and it really doesn't work or I can't make sense of it but like if I follow the instructions, that don't require to have your elbow measurement and your wrist one, I end up with like 2,5cm missing for my elbow, 3cm missing for my biceps and 2 for my wrist, it really frustrates me. I wonder if it only works with *their*basic set of measurements, and cannot be followed by anyone. Kinda like their bodice block that I had to over think about to make it work for my body. It's exhausting because I don't like doing things without understanding them and this doesn't seem like the best method for a sleeve draft but I might be wrong. it's just I cannot understand this "in between" armhole and bicep measurement, it's too abstract for my brain ?
This is exactly the reason I came to the comments! My bicep measurement is like 2 inches more than the armhole measurement so I don't want to go in between because then the total bicep width wouldn't fit my arm?? Anyway let me know if you managed to figure it out :D
Is it possible to draft an arm syce based on a sleeve pattern? I have a pack of simplicity patterns for sleeves but I have no idea if I can draft an armhole based off it. I did try to google even regarding the specific sleeve set but little came up.
Hello, is the point G 3/16 of an Inch, you said 3/8 of an inch ?
Maybe I missed it but if you shorten the sleeve cap, should you make the "bicep line" wider as well?
Pleacse can you show 2 pieces sleeves
Great info thanks. What fabric is your basic block made from it looks really sturdy
7:51 Question: shouldn't the armscye circumference be bigger without the seam allowance? Why subtraction here? (genuinely asking, just from a geometry standpoint; I know nothing about pattern drafting lol)
teşekkür ederim video paylaşımı için yalnız siden bir iseğim var
lütfen kalıplrın üzerine çalışırken inç ve cm ölçülerinidde yazabilirmisiniz.sizi anlmıyorum ma yazınca anlıyorm
if your are planning to make a raglans from your bodice & sleeve block is the higher cap still a problem?
i was in a mall store and saw a cute tiered xl dress. i was looking it over and walked away shaking my head, on a xl -extra large- they had arms so small that it looked like you could not have put it on the manicans, you need to know that the bigger the girl the bigger the arm.
elinizdeki kitabın pdf sini nasıl temin edebilirim.?
What edition of the book are you using and does it matter which one we get?
I think mine is the 5th edition? But no I don't think it matters, mostly they just update the illustrations to look a little less 1980s over time 😂
Would this sleeve pattern draft work for knit fabrics too? Or it’s totally different draft? Thank you so much!!!
I have used it with knits myself, but I am no knit expert so I hesitate to give a firm yes 😂 If anything I would just make it slimmer since the knit will have stretch!
@@TheClosetHistorian Thank you!!!❤️
This was super instructive! However: ow, my poor metric brain! I wish I understood fractions...
EDIT: just read the article you linked about rejecting cap ease. Mind blown!
The imperial measurement system makes no sense so that's a very fair reaction! ;)
@@TheClosetHistorian haha, fair enough! I promise it's bit more logical than imperial, but I'd say that, wouldn't I? :D
what do you mean by standard 22? For sleeve length there's standard?
There are standardized size charts in drafting books and the mid size is 22 inches is all
omg TY the book is so confusing
I’m really struggling to understand, some of the measurements you’re getting I don’t know how you got them and literally not one tutorial explains it on RUclips it’s really frustrating 😂😂