Couldn't agree more..HALF & HALF makes freshly brewed coffee something even better..The vintage Marshall (updated) is now a wonderful amp..Better than new..Cheers !
Your videos quickly became a collection of references for me. There are tons of amp tech videos out there with 75% whining and cursing and 25% showing the solution. I like the pace and detail of your explanations. As a software engineer I understand the benefit of whining and cursing but I tend to flip the percentage when possible :) Anyhow, can't wait for the next episodes. Looking forward to hear your experience and advices on NFB and more on ground schemes. Great work and thank you!
My father would fabricate Porsche 935 twin turbo engine parts for his IMSA race team back in the early 80s. Your work reminds me of his attention to detail!
It is amazing to see the transformation from the first video to this one. It is a testament to your commitment to great workmanship that the wiring and the chassis look so clean, organized and well-built. The proof is always in the sound...and you have done that right as well. So good.
Thank you Lyle for all the videos that you do! Since I have been watching them, I learned _a lot_ from you about what is going on inside that box. It's greatly improved my ability to dial in amps of different kinds. It's even improved my use of EQs! Thank you for sharing your knowledge, your experience and your _attentiveness_ for the player.
Well, you know, actually I am. Since ramping up this channel my inbox is flooded with work requests. I plan to spend most of Sunday replying to this week's emails. So these are advertisements for my work. But no reason they have to be boring. ;)
Wow that sounds crazy good. Your attention to details and the way you approach the systemic problems with these older amps is fantastic. I'm sure the owner will be ecstatic.
Now "that" is The Sound. I could toss half my pedal board with an amp like this, and maybe even find a use for "that yellow". Nice job explaining what is going on.
Wow, the workmanship is spectacular. Very nice job. I would like to hear this amp once the caps are broken-in. It will get better with about 50 hrs on it. Really nice. Cheers
I love your comment about different values for the bright cap, I have been experimenting with that for a while and come up with some really interesting and good tone variations that I really like, good point made.
I really like the 50KL middle pot “mod”. Some of the JMP’s I’ve seen have had a 50k or 100k with a resistor to get it down to ~25k. A 100KL pot is a good value if you’re after an almost “Tweedy” sound.
I like to leave the bright cap off the lead or bright channel and put a small one to taste on the normal or bass channel, your favorite boost pedal will let you know the size of cap, use said normal channel with pedal and bright cap, jump to lead channel with no bright cap tones from sweet cleans to one wire mod with NO rasp!!
That amp is a beaut..! So quiet, another great build. Man you're so, so good at your stuff..! Thanks for sharing. Really interesting & informative..Ed..uk..😀
Lyle you got a thumbs up/like for the half n half ad at the start. I'd have hit it another 2-3 times for the rest of the video if it would do any good. Like what your talking about with low volume on the clean channel, Mick Taylor (YT channel That Pedal Show) did a vlog some months back where he set up the shows 1987x re-issue clean, ran it against the shows house deluxe/Super reverbs (Dans 61 AC30? can't remember the other amps) and it was clearly a matter of taste Vox/Fender/Marshall which sounded best for gorgeous sparking clean tone.
Nice video! I'm not sure why you chose a PPIMV over a traditional Post-Tonestack Master as PPIMV plays on the NFB, but personal preference. As far response back to Pete and what things actually do....I think the best way to do it is a good video, well thought out how play the same loop and changing the settings on the amp and folks here the difference while communicating to people what the changes are and why it sounds the way it does. I think the best way to do that is to build up an "All Access" version SIMILAR to what Nik at Ceriatone put together, which includes all the different variations including PPIMV as well as selectable rectification between Tube and Solid State. Only changes I would make is ensuring values, and deciding on cap values across the B+....would it be 50/50/100/50/50....100/50/50/50/50, 50/16/100/33/33, or some other variation? I'd like to twist up my own variation of this All Access version, but personally would get rid of the PPIMV, FX Loop is good between Preamp and Phase Inverter and insert a Master after the FX Loop! I'd probably do a 50W version and consider a 20W version with 6V6s. Looks like the NFB is on a 3 way so you can set the value, but not tap, so I'd probably add another switch to select the tap applied also! It would be easy to add the Rhoads MOD also on a switch or Push-Pull just by lifting that 470k resistor and moving over to the 68k/68k split of the Bright Input!! Man, would that be a Swiss Army of amps?!?? lol One could add the Jose MOD also and defeatable voltage clamp and zener clippers!! Oh, and if 0-120 taps and 100-240 taps, you could add a Virtual Variac also!! I'll have to think about this and what B+ filtering scheme I would use, but sure would make the video like you purposed easy....just loop something and videos of the different changes and for the different years...67, 68. 69, etc!! Look forward to the video and you have the gears turning!! lol ref: ceriatone.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/Plexi-101-All-Access-10-Dec-2022.pdf
I been messing around with mine, a homebrew 2204. I basically made a 50 watt jcm800 kk2203. Anyways im curious as to what you did exactly. Sounds like a one wire mod variant, jose style, etc. I have built a shared cathode one wire variant that sounded pretty good. I think the magic voltage for v1a is like 250 volts. Anyways thanks for the video, amp sounds real nice. ☺️
Can you do a video on how to tell which wires are which ohm? I have some old marshall super leads where I think the 4 and 16 have been swapped. How can I tell which wires are 4-8-16? And then how do impedance selectors work? The old push in make sense but the rotary knob is confusing to know what chooses what.
I can see you also built DC heaters for the 12ax7s using the last octal socket? Oh! My bad it’s just a OT protection diode and humdinger resistors/center tap?
I never really understood the logic behind hot biasing? I always find there's a sweet spot at 70% PD and there's an equally sweet and less "thick" spot at 55% or so. My old AC30CC was biased at insane levels even for a Vox. Fender's all sound great at 55%. A great quote I read recently somewhere, "I bias my amps until the tone noticeably thickens up: I nearly always like just before that point."
Depends on the amp. For Fenders, Tung-Sol 12AX7s, JAN 12AT7s (new Tung-Sols are good, just not as), Tung-Sol 6L6GC STRs or EH 6V6s, Sovtek 5AR4. For Marshalls, Mullard CV4004s and EL34s or EH 6550s. All from a good vendor. Not GC. Not MF or Sweetwater. Not from Antique Electronics. I use Tube Depot and The Tube Store.
@@PsionicAudio Have you ever tried a set of Tube Amp Doctor 6L6GC-STRs in a Fender? I'm considering them for my AB165/AA864 hybrid build, but I'm looking for more feedback on them versus the Tung-Sols.
That is the quietest sounding Marshall I have ever heard!!! (Well... Besides those that aren't turned on, but you know what I mean) What ground node did you connect the Presence control cap/resistor to? I'm guessing the same as the PI filter cap ground?
Presence IS the ground point of the phase inverter, and the phase inverter and screen nodes are inside the negative feedback loop. So all together to chassis right by the Presence pot. See the video linked in the description.
You are most likely aware of the new PRS HX amps with their bright cap switch. Your work and attention to detail is outstanding! I can't wait to see the rest of this video series. I'd love to see this same level of attention given to a 72 Hiwatt 103. I want to know those secrets!
I take PRS amp specs with a heavy grain of salt. ;) PS I've done a lot of HiWatts. Just haven't ported all the videos from my FB page But here are three: fb.watch/6l-LXc1h8z/ fb.watch/6l-OjeuRxU/ fb.watch/6l-PsQ6zs3
@@PsionicAudio Thank you. I immediately watched all three. I have a dream amp: A very custom 'Hiwatt' with top of the line KT66 output tubes. I also like your idea of converting the presence knob to upper mids. Those stratospheric high frequencies are insane. What I want is a very high headroom, hi-fi pedal platform. I also want multiple outputs for daisy-chaining and stereo W/D/W effects. Like, both an effects loop and a line out, and two 16 0hm speaker outs. Sound City and Hylight both do this, but Hiwatt does not. Everyone in the world uses the Marshall high-gain thing, or the fender, or the Vox thing, but I simply love the uniqueness and cleanliness of the Hiwatt sound. I do not like high-gain or that ancillary 'velcro' distortion thing - to me it's just not a holistic aspect of the musical soul of tone and texture. I want cathedral bells in my 3-way 2.1 system. Hiwatt as it is, is just not exactly what I want. It's a great (the best) start, but I want my own original, unique thing. Watching you makes me feel very comfortable and confident that you are the brain surgeon to depend on and turn to in 2022. I'd want nothing but the very best of everything. I was reading about Gold Lion KT66 tubes today, and they 'sounded' (in the written description) perfect. EHX KT66 'sounded' like a close second. "A huge sound with rounded bottom, smooth top, and compressed upper mids. And I see no point in bright caps. Who wants to ice-pick their audience to death? What's the point in competing with cymbals? I want my guitar to sound like Cathedral Bells over the world's finest home stereo system from a Deutsche Gramophone Record. Anyway, I love your videos! I am not a tech. I am a composer/producer who happens to play guitar (for 50 years now). I sit mesmerized by your show. I have seen others' but you are by far the best of them. Keep them coming.
@@KKMcK1 thanks so much! PS "Gold Lion" is a rebrander of tubes, not a manufacturer. If you buy them you are paying a lot extra for the box. The tube itself will either be Russian (New Sensor, so Sovtek, EH, etc), Chinese (Shuagang), or Slovakian (JJ). PPS I wouldn't put KT66s in a HiWatt.
@@PsionicAudio Interesting. Why wouldn't you use KT66 instead of EL34 to get away from the Marshall sound? It is my understanding that it is the EL34 that gives the Marshall its 'nasally' sound. I got my info here: www.thetubestore.com/kt66-tube-review (Maybe 6L6 or KT88?) I like the Fender sound, except there is a 'tubey' (tubular?) upper-mid that I do not like which is very specific to the Fender sound. I've owned Marshalls, Fenders, Seymour Duncan convertible, Mesa Boogie, I've played through Celestions and EVs. The system I am designing will use a mixture in different cabs. All Alnico Webers of the various flavors built to my specs, as will be the cabinets themselves. Each cabinet built for a specific speaker type. I hope I am not wasting your time with bothersome nonsense, but I have been working on this concept for years, and how to create an extremely unique system that gives me a sound all my own, as I have described to you. Thanks again!
@@ChesapeakeRepair it requires a CRAZY amount of water. And it's grown in CA where they have a ridiculous years long drought. Consider oat milk instead. I think it tastes great.
Nonsense... MANY crops require a lot of water, rice, walnuts, corn, wheat, I could go on and on... it does not mean growing that crop us bad for the environment. Of course, it doesn't make a lot of sense to grow crops like rice and almonds in California, but it hasn't always been a problem... until climate change became severe. I'm sure with time those crops will move to different, and more affordable growing regions.
I played my Metroamp 12,000 series for five years with a 500pf bright cap it came with. One day I disconnected it and the amp sounds a lot better without it. My 50 watt plexi reissue sounded fizzy with any bright cap and dull and lifeless without it however. Hated that amp.
![Digital Circus Episode 4 [TRAILER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/abZtsmMUbJo/mqdefault.jpg)
Man! Not only does the layout and wiring of this amp look gorgeous, is incredibly QUIET and sounds spectacular! The owner is going to be thrilled!
Couldn't agree more..HALF & HALF makes freshly brewed coffee something even better..The vintage Marshall (updated) is now a wonderful amp..Better than new..Cheers !
Your videos quickly became a collection of references for me. There are tons of amp tech videos out there with 75% whining and cursing and 25% showing the solution. I like the pace and detail of your explanations. As a software engineer I understand the benefit of whining and cursing but I tend to flip the percentage when possible :) Anyhow, can't wait for the next episodes. Looking forward to hear your experience and advices on NFB and more on ground schemes. Great work and thank you!
My father would fabricate Porsche 935 twin turbo engine parts for his IMSA race team back in the early 80s. Your work reminds me of his attention to detail!
That amp is a serious work of art! Absolutely beautiful!
It is amazing to see the transformation from the first video to this one. It is a testament to your commitment to great workmanship that the wiring and the chassis look so clean, organized and well-built. The proof is always in the sound...and you have done that right as well. So good.
Thank you Lyle for all the videos that you do!
Since I have been watching them, I learned _a lot_ from you
about what is going on inside that box.
It's greatly improved my ability to dial in amps of different kinds.
It's even improved my use of EQs!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, your experience and your _attentiveness_ for the player.
Love it Lyle. Thanks for tanking the time to do these videos as I know you are not doing it for the money!
Well, you know, actually I am. Since ramping up this channel my inbox is flooded with work requests. I plan to spend most of Sunday replying to this week's emails.
So these are advertisements for my work. But no reason they have to be boring. ;)
Wow that sounds crazy good. Your attention to details and the way you approach the systemic problems with these older amps is fantastic. I'm sure the owner will be ecstatic.
Fun video, Lyle. This and the next -- with the cardboard panel.
If you ever get out my way, there's always half and half in the Frigidaire.
These videos are awesome. Thanks for detailing everything you're thinking about as you make changes to these circuits.
as someone building a superlead from scratch right now i am scraping this series for every titbit of wisdom i can
That wiring is stunning!
You have every right to be proud of your work. Your execution of layout is impeccable.
Great work Lyle! Really enjoying this series. I love old Marshalls.
Wow! amazing work Lyle. BGG sent me to your site. Outstanding work.
Now "that" is The Sound. I could toss half my pedal board with an amp like this, and maybe even find a use for "that yellow". Nice job explaining what is going on.
Wow, the workmanship is spectacular. Very nice job. I would like to hear this amp once the caps are broken-in. It will get better with about 50 hrs on it. Really nice. Cheers
Really an awesome build, Lyle. Your work is excellent.
I love your comment about different values for the bright cap, I have been experimenting with that for a while and come up with some really interesting and good tone variations that I really like, good point made.
I really like the 50KL middle pot “mod”. Some of the JMP’s I’ve seen have had a 50k or 100k with a resistor to get it down to ~25k. A 100KL pot is a good value if you’re after an almost “Tweedy” sound.
Still binge watching.
I like to leave the bright cap off the lead or bright channel and put a small one to taste on the normal or bass channel, your favorite boost pedal will let you know the size of cap, use said normal channel with pedal and bright cap, jump to lead channel with no bright cap tones from sweet cleans to one wire mod with NO rasp!!
I did not expect Lyle to throw quiet riot in the middle of this! Damn fine sounds out of this….
That amp is a beaut..! So quiet, another great build. Man you're so, so good at your stuff..! Thanks for sharing. Really interesting & informative..Ed..uk..😀
Beautiful work.
You have some really great analogies!
Lyle you got a thumbs up/like for the half n half ad at the start. I'd have hit it another 2-3 times for the rest of the video if it would do any good. Like what your talking about with low volume on the clean channel, Mick Taylor (YT channel That Pedal Show) did a vlog some months back where he set up the shows 1987x re-issue clean, ran it against the shows house deluxe/Super reverbs (Dans 61 AC30? can't remember the other amps) and it was clearly a matter of taste Vox/Fender/Marshall which sounded best for gorgeous sparking clean tone.
Sounds fantastic!
Good stuff!!!! Great post series!
Wish I could hear this amp with clean as well as with your favorite boost pedal
Bravo !
Outstanding!!!!
Nice video! I'm not sure why you chose a PPIMV over a traditional Post-Tonestack Master as PPIMV plays on the NFB, but personal preference.
As far response back to Pete and what things actually do....I think the best way to do it is a good video, well thought out how play the same loop and changing the settings on the amp and folks here the difference while communicating to people what the changes are and why it sounds the way it does.
I think the best way to do that is to build up an "All Access" version SIMILAR to what Nik at Ceriatone put together, which includes all the different variations including PPIMV as well as selectable rectification between Tube and Solid State. Only changes I would make is ensuring values, and deciding on cap values across the B+....would it be 50/50/100/50/50....100/50/50/50/50, 50/16/100/33/33, or some other variation?
I'd like to twist up my own variation of this All Access version, but personally would get rid of the PPIMV, FX Loop is good between Preamp and Phase Inverter and insert a Master after the FX Loop! I'd probably do a 50W version and consider a 20W version with 6V6s. Looks like the NFB is on a 3 way so you can set the value, but not tap, so I'd probably add another switch to select the tap applied also! It would be easy to add the Rhoads MOD also on a switch or Push-Pull just by lifting that 470k resistor and moving over to the 68k/68k split of the Bright Input!! Man, would that be a Swiss Army of amps?!?? lol One could add the Jose MOD also and defeatable voltage clamp and zener clippers!! Oh, and if 0-120 taps and 100-240 taps, you could add a Virtual Variac also!!
I'll have to think about this and what B+ filtering scheme I would use, but sure would make the video like you purposed easy....just loop something and videos of the different changes and for the different years...67, 68. 69, etc!! Look forward to the video and you have the gears turning!! lol
ref: ceriatone.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/Plexi-101-All-Access-10-Dec-2022.pdf
Oh, and the amp sounds great and quiet for a Marshall....Nice Job! :)
looks better than new :)
I use almond milk for protein shakes, coffee is 100% black, unless I get a cappuccino (which needs to be ‘dry’) then it’s whole milk.
I been messing around with mine, a homebrew 2204. I basically made a 50 watt jcm800 kk2203.
Anyways im curious as to what you did exactly. Sounds like a one wire mod variant, jose style, etc.
I have built a shared cathode one wire variant that sounded pretty good.
I think the magic voltage for v1a is like 250 volts.
Anyways thanks for the video, amp sounds real nice. ☺️
Beautiful work Lyle!! Must be loud as the camera bounces some..lol!
Can you do a video on how to tell which wires are which ohm? I have some old marshall super leads where I think the 4 and 16 have been swapped. How can I tell which wires are 4-8-16? And then how do impedance selectors work? The old push in make sense but the rotary knob is confusing to know what chooses what.
How do they milk an almond anyway? That must be udderly frustrating.
I can see you also built DC heaters for the 12ax7s using the last octal socket? Oh! My bad it’s just a OT protection diode and humdinger resistors/center tap?
I've always wondered if Jimmy Page named the Presence album after the presence control on Marshall amps.
Loudness did after the Loudness control on the early JTM's 🎸
Akira Takasaki has one the most killer Marshall tones ever.
Beauty!
I never really understood the logic behind hot biasing?
I always find there's a sweet spot at 70% PD and there's an equally sweet and less "thick" spot at 55% or so.
My old AC30CC was biased at insane levels even for a Vox. Fender's all sound great at 55%.
A great quote I read recently somewhere, "I bias my amps until the tone noticeably thickens up: I nearly always like just before that point."
Hi!which type of slope treble cap do you prefer, silver mica or ceramic or something else?
Thanks!
Stunning craftsmanship! Bravo sir! And f*%# almond milk.
Almond milk...you poor soul.
If this was mine the only thing I'd add would be a jumper switch and possibly a switchable diode bound.
Hey Lyle, what new production 12AT7/12AX7 do you like best across the board?
My usual supplier is out of good used US made everything.
Depends on the amp. For Fenders, Tung-Sol 12AX7s, JAN 12AT7s (new Tung-Sols are good, just not as), Tung-Sol 6L6GC STRs or EH 6V6s, Sovtek 5AR4.
For Marshalls, Mullard CV4004s and EL34s or EH 6550s.
All from a good vendor. Not GC. Not MF or Sweetwater. Not from Antique Electronics.
I use Tube Depot and The Tube Store.
@@PsionicAudio thanks!!
@@PsionicAudio Have you ever tried a set of Tube Amp Doctor 6L6GC-STRs in a Fender? I'm considering them for my AB165/AA864 hybrid build, but I'm looking for more feedback on them versus the Tung-Sols.
@@PsionicAudio What's the story with Antique Electronics? I've used them, and I'm surprised you lumped them in with GC/MF/Sweetwater.
That is the quietest sounding Marshall I have ever heard!!! (Well... Besides those that aren't turned on, but you know what I mean)
What ground node did you connect the Presence control cap/resistor to? I'm guessing the same as the PI filter cap ground?
Presence IS the ground point of the phase inverter, and the phase inverter and screen nodes are inside the negative feedback loop. So all together to chassis right by the Presence pot. See the video linked in the description.
Great vid! These vids are super interesting, i've subscribed. I'm hoping you show the tip to help out the normal channel! :)
i wish every marshall owner had bright cap switch to hear what's they are missing haha
Are you changing the taper of the mid pot with that resistor across it?
On the bass side, it's still 25K. Does change the taper but not in a bad way. Most wouldn't notice.
What is the purpose of the diodes on the power tube sockets?
Flyback diodes to save output tubes from arcing. Modern EL34s are prone to it. Doesn't affect the sound/feel. Just keeps the magic smoke in.
@@PsionicAudio thank you
👍🤟🤟👍
You are most likely aware of the new PRS HX amps with their bright cap switch. Your work and attention to detail is outstanding! I can't wait to see the rest of this video series. I'd love to see this same level of attention given to a 72 Hiwatt 103. I want to know those secrets!
I take PRS amp specs with a heavy grain of salt. ;)
PS I've done a lot of HiWatts. Just haven't ported all the videos from my FB page
But here are three:
fb.watch/6l-LXc1h8z/
fb.watch/6l-OjeuRxU/
fb.watch/6l-PsQ6zs3
@@PsionicAudio Thank you. I immediately watched all three. I have a dream amp: A very custom 'Hiwatt' with top of the line KT66 output tubes. I also like your idea of converting the presence knob to upper mids. Those stratospheric high frequencies are insane. What I want is a very high headroom, hi-fi pedal platform. I also want multiple outputs for daisy-chaining and stereo W/D/W effects. Like, both an effects loop and a line out, and two 16 0hm speaker outs. Sound City and Hylight both do this, but Hiwatt does not. Everyone in the world uses the Marshall high-gain thing, or the fender, or the Vox thing, but I simply love the uniqueness and cleanliness of the Hiwatt sound. I do not like high-gain or that ancillary 'velcro' distortion thing - to me it's just not a holistic aspect of the musical soul of tone and texture. I want cathedral bells in my 3-way 2.1 system. Hiwatt as it is, is just not exactly what I want. It's a great (the best) start, but I want my own original, unique thing. Watching you makes me feel very comfortable and confident that you are the brain surgeon to depend on and turn to in 2022. I'd want nothing but the very best of everything. I was reading about Gold Lion KT66 tubes today, and they 'sounded' (in the written description) perfect. EHX KT66 'sounded' like a close second. "A huge sound with rounded bottom, smooth top, and compressed upper mids. And I see no point in bright caps. Who wants to ice-pick their audience to death? What's the point in competing with cymbals? I want my guitar to sound like Cathedral Bells over the world's finest home stereo system from a Deutsche Gramophone Record. Anyway, I love your videos! I am not a tech. I am a composer/producer who happens to play guitar (for 50 years now). I sit mesmerized by your show. I have seen others' but you are by far the best of them. Keep them coming.
@@KKMcK1 thanks so much!
PS "Gold Lion" is a rebrander of tubes, not a manufacturer. If you buy them you are paying a lot extra for the box. The tube itself will either be Russian (New Sensor, so Sovtek, EH, etc), Chinese (Shuagang), or Slovakian (JJ).
PPS I wouldn't put KT66s in a HiWatt.
@@PsionicAudio Interesting. Why wouldn't you use KT66 instead of EL34 to get away from the Marshall sound? It is my understanding that it is the EL34 that gives the Marshall its 'nasally' sound. I got my info here: www.thetubestore.com/kt66-tube-review (Maybe 6L6 or KT88?) I like the Fender sound, except there is a 'tubey' (tubular?) upper-mid that I do not like which is very specific to the Fender sound. I've owned Marshalls, Fenders, Seymour Duncan convertible, Mesa Boogie, I've played through Celestions and EVs. The system I am designing will use a mixture in different cabs. All Alnico Webers of the various flavors built to my specs, as will be the cabinets themselves. Each cabinet built for a specific speaker type. I hope I am not wasting your time with bothersome nonsense, but I have been working on this concept for years, and how to create an extremely unique system that gives me a sound all my own, as I have described to you. Thanks again!
🙂😀😃😄😁
holy moly. ha ha ha.
What on earth is half and half?
Half milk, half cream.
@@PsionicAudio have you ever tried just straight heavy cream in your coffee? It is sinfully decedent but oh so good.
You can give me more crayons, and I'll colour you something on the way home on the short bus🤡!
Almond milk is also terrible for the environment...
Really? Or you just messin?
@@ChesapeakeRepair it requires a CRAZY amount of water. And it's grown in CA where they have a ridiculous years long drought. Consider oat milk instead. I think it tastes great.
Ah I do remember reading something like that. I’ll switch to oat milk.
@@JRFarmercomBeer requires a crazy amount of water too
Nonsense... MANY crops require a lot of water, rice, walnuts, corn, wheat, I could go on and on... it does not mean growing that crop us bad for the environment. Of course, it doesn't make a lot of sense to grow crops like rice and almonds in California, but it hasn't always been a problem... until climate change became severe. I'm sure with time those crops will move to different, and more affordable growing regions.
Check your Email. My Marshall needs a fixin'.
Once you go Black, you'll never go back.....LOLOL
Cheerz!
COFFEE should be black
I like black coffee late at night. In the morning I like cream and sugar. I have no doubts of my "manliness" and I drink what I want. ;)
@@PsionicAudio When will you have a price for the EC15?
Lewis Black. The only real milk is moo cow f**k milk
cant STAND "bright caps". Horrible. -lol
I played my Metroamp 12,000 series for five years with a 500pf bright cap it came with. One day I disconnected it and the amp sounds a lot better without it. My 50 watt plexi reissue sounded fizzy with any bright cap and dull and lifeless without it however. Hated that amp.