*Watch my Route Climbing videos: **bit.ly/inunder3* *Watch more of my Whipper videos here: **bit.ly/whippers* *Check out my Channel here: **bit.ly/godzyclimbs*
Hi, With all respect to the climber. Were the quick draws orientation done properly? Or were some done with the wrong orientation? I've never done lead climb myself and I want to learn a proper technique.
Hi. The climber here. I place my draws often the way that is easiest for me at the time. I'm generally not concerned too much if my gate is on the inside or outside of the direction I'm climbing. I do, however, ensure that I don't back clip or Z clip. I'm no expert. This is just how I do things. I recommend that you take a lead course to learn proper lead technique from a certified instructor and then get out and enjoy lead climbing.
A few constructive criticisms: 1) Quickdraw gates should, if possible, oppose the direction of a probable fall. I think all of these faced the climber/fall direction - this could be a problem if you fall funny and the rope pushes the gate open. 2) At the chains, carabiners should oppose each other and both face outwards, for the same reason and to have equal weight distribution on both chains. 3) Climber clipped directly into the PAS. On most climbs it will be easier and safer to place opposing quickdraws on 2 level chain links, clip in the rope, call for a take, then set up your PAS to descend (if you're cleaning the route). The cleaning all looked good (except the non-opposing carabiners, one of which should be locked), though it's good to be very deliberate about weighting the rope and making sure you're on belay before removing the PAS. Looks like a very fun beginner route!
For all practical purposes, don't worry about which way the quickdraws are facing. Clip them in whatever direction is going to be more comfortable. The only thing you really need to remember is the "loose" carabiner goes into the bolt. Unless you've already climbed the route and memorized all the moves, choosing the direction to mitigate any potential unclipping is wasted thought and time. You may or may not end up climbing to one side or the other after you clip. Focus on establishing a good stance to clip first, and overcoming the impulse to go for a clip you have to reach for above your head. Remember the farther you have to pull rope up to clip, if you mess it up it's that much farther of a fall.
*Watch my Route Climbing videos: **bit.ly/inunder3*
*Watch more of my Whipper videos here: **bit.ly/whippers*
*Check out my Channel here: **bit.ly/godzyclimbs*
Such a great route. Doesn't matter if it's 5.6. I had a smile all the way up that thing. Thanks for sharing🤙
Hi, With all respect to the climber. Were the quick draws orientation done properly? Or were some done with the wrong orientation?
I've never done lead climb myself and I want to learn a proper technique.
Hi. The climber here. I place my draws often the way that is easiest for me at the time. I'm generally not concerned too much if my gate is on the inside or outside of the direction I'm climbing. I do, however, ensure that I don't back clip or Z clip. I'm no expert. This is just how I do things. I recommend that you take a lead course to learn proper lead technique from a certified instructor and then get out and enjoy lead climbing.
A few constructive criticisms: 1) Quickdraw gates should, if possible, oppose the direction of a probable fall. I think all of these faced the climber/fall direction - this could be a problem if you fall funny and the rope pushes the gate open. 2) At the chains, carabiners should oppose each other and both face outwards, for the same reason and to have equal weight distribution on both chains. 3) Climber clipped directly into the PAS. On most climbs it will be easier and safer to place opposing quickdraws on 2 level chain links, clip in the rope, call for a take, then set up your PAS to descend (if you're cleaning the route). The cleaning all looked good (except the non-opposing carabiners, one of which should be locked), though it's good to be very deliberate about weighting the rope and making sure you're on belay before removing the PAS. Looks like a very fun beginner route!
For all practical purposes, don't worry about which way the quickdraws are facing. Clip them in whatever direction is going to be more comfortable. The only thing you really need to remember is the "loose" carabiner goes into the bolt. Unless you've already climbed the route and memorized all the moves, choosing the direction to mitigate any potential unclipping is wasted thought and time. You may or may not end up climbing to one side or the other after you clip.
Focus on establishing a good stance to clip first, and overcoming the impulse to go for a clip you have to reach for above your head. Remember the farther you have to pull rope up to clip, if you mess it up it's that much farther of a fall.
Interesting video. Glad you enjoyed the route.
The other set of anchors are for the crack to the right. It’s called Howard Roark.