18650 Building Blocks - 12v Solar Shed
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- Опубликовано: 17 май 2018
- After a few requests I've put together this video of me building a block of 18650 lithium ion cells into one pack, or block. I'll use seven of these in my final power wall thingy.
Links
Repackr Website: repackr.com
3D Printed Cable Stripper: admw.uk/km
Items used in this video:
❗️These links are affiliated and I may earn a small commission if you purchase❗️
4x5 18650 Holders: ebay.to/2IvB826
2.5mm Twin & Earth: ebay.to/2ITcWGp
5amp Fuse Wire Cards: ebay.to/2kkQPus
M5 8AWG Ring Terminals: ebay.to/2Lgx4jY
2mm 300mm Cable Ties: ebay.to/2Lf5hAr 
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Good vid, thanks. I gave up trying to solder cells years ago, I found only the Weller station could do it which I used at work and I couldn't afford one of those, not to mention having to sandpaper all the ends. Watching how you breezed through it makes me want to try again. Cheers.
That method is neat, because you have fused each cell, avoided excessive heating, and obviated the need of making a spot welder for the job. Nice one! Thanks.
what is the point of the fuses?
isnt easier to use nickestrip?
Great stuff adam i like the way you done all the prep work to the fuse and buss bar by soldering them up before adding them to the battery pack.that alone will reduce the heat volume you put in the cells
Thanks Adam. A handy trick for soldering to large areas, such as that bus wire (but obviously not the cells) with a small soldering iron is to use a small hotplate or a spare domestic iron as a base plate. Put the work onto the gently-heated hotplate, and solder as normal. _Avoiding wrists, hands and fingers on hotplate!_ ;-D
Amazing use of DIY tools in a DIY project!
Good job! Soldering: Pre-tinning & heat bridge before major soldering. Both excellent techniques!🙂👍
Hi Adam, Love your construction !
Simple and effective...
One hint: Instead of "folding back' the ty-rap use two smaller ty-raps, one inserted from each side. Easier to insert and easier to tighten up.
It’s a good plan. I wanted to hide the connector bit inside to make it really neat, but that didn’t work out. Your idea is more simple, quicker and looks pretty good.
I've done that already
imgur.com/a/K95Nx
imgur.com/a/neP6JWv
another way to do it is to poke a drinking straw through and thread the end of the cable tie in it to make it pokes out again correctly
Another way is to use bolts...
...what is a short circuit capacity of a 65mm long M4 bolt? Let's find out.
Great job, Adam!
Great job, very professional! Thanks, Joe
Hi Adam, very nice explanation! Good job! Thank you for sharing and keep on!
Adam, absolutely mega. I,m so late to the 18650 reuse party. Thanks mate. Will sub.
In my build prep I actually retain about 4-5mm of the tab strip, rather than peeling it off the cells. This gives a perfect solder terminal as the tab material heats up easily and requires little additional (if any) flux....
I do like the use of fuse wire. Think I may have to copy that idea 😀
I find a few scratches into a cell with a xacto helps get a cell to take solder even if it’s new
Thanks so much for this great presentation on how to do that. It helped me a lot. Thanks for sharing !!!!
Hi Adam, it's me again Jack. Thank you for your video. May I ask if I can use couple of packs like this and parallel them together to connect them on a 12v MPPT charger with 2 100 watts solar panels. Will this configuration work on shed and perhaps some backyard lights? Thank you again for sharing this video. Awesome work!!! Cheers.
Nice tidy job. Looks good.
Thanks Paul. Your comment had been stuck in my head about keeping them in pairs and soldering to the nickel strip. Although I wasn’t able to do that because mine we all singles, I think leaving the nickel strip on there has helped reduce the heat required. Either that or I’ve been lucky. Looking forward to your next video anyway - good to hear from you.
Another great video dude, a good borrow well executed, thanks.
good job - thanks for showing us. Texas , USA
Hi Adam a quick tip use a drinking straw or something similar to thread the cable ties.
Excellent idea. Thank you.
Maybe pushing your fuses through the buss twist and soldering them in the form and tinning the ends before placing on the pack this could cut your build time once fluxing the end of the batt. would be even less Iron contact for heat .
You could 3d print a cover just for the top and bottom of the 1st and 7th cell pack to protect the fuse wires.
Good idea - This video was missing an 3d printed element :-) Thanks
If you add a few more strategically placed nails to your busbar forming board you could just wind the fuse wire around in a single run and have hands free soldering!
If you put the nails in angled away from the centre the fuse wire will stay down on the busbars better.
That’s a great idea. Shame I’ve now built all my packs now!
For busbar I use insulated cable fine wire 4-6mm2 and cut insulatn of the cable where I need... 👍
Murphy's Law
Hello there, was hoping you can help me out. I'm changing the batteries on my 18v drill to Li-ion. A 5s2p pack and adding balance charging lead. Would it be possible to add a digital volt meter alarm with an on/off switch to the pack. So I can see the voltage. And if so, how would I wire it up. Thanks so much
What device do you use to collect data on capacities? I have something that is way over kill, but I am looking for the cheapest solution possible as a suggestion for people in my community working to develop off grid data collecting stations.
I only put fuses on positive side and they work great, as I accidentally shorted out my 3s 20p pack
How do you connect the negative busbar to the cells?
@@chillstar spotweld...
Hello Adam!
Do you have questimate time for building the 7S20P bank starting with sourcing the batteries and ending with mounting them on the wall.
If possible don't count the diy bms :)
I want to build my dc system for our home, unfortunately I know pretty well that a 20min length video may mean 6month worth of free time :D so if possible I would avoid such a pitfall at any cost :)
Thanks in advance
Looks good!
Hello Adam,
Thank you for your great vids! I go often to your channel and show if I missed a notification or so because I wait for new vids from you :)
do you have a link for the fuse wire? I think it is a really good thing but I does not find it in Germany or on AliExpress:( thank you
Amazon, both .com and .co.uk has it (combinations of 5/15/30 A wire rolled up on a cardboard carrier) Lots more sellers on .co.uk though :-)
Excellent technique.....
How could one put these in parallel and charge with solar panels?
Hi Adam. Hope you are doing well along with this amazing project you have been sharing with us DIYers. I really would appreciate your input on this build I'm trying to achieve. I would like to build this as follows and hoping it could be possible. I am in the process of building a portable solar power generator to use sparingly and for emergency purposes the build will consist of 18650 power and would go something like this:
3 packs of 24 cells in parallel, then wired in series to =12volts and 60ahs.(1- 100 amp 3s BMS added to the 3packs)
Then another
3 packs of 24 18650 cells in parallel. Wired in series to =12v@ 60ah(1- 100 amp 3s BMS added to the 3packs). Then
Connected together in parallel, to make it a total of 120ah battery at 12volts? I would really appreciate some feedback from you Adam.
A lot of you asked?; How much current can the pack provide?. Well, if the batteries are 2 amps each, you would get 40 amps and 3.7v, or 4.2v fully charged, in a parallel fashion. For 11.1v or 12.6v fully charged, you would need 3 packs. In other words 3 packs of 3.7v each. By adding 2 more packs in series, the current would still remain at 40 amps total. So, you need 60, 2 amp batteries altogether, conected in a series parallel fashion, for a total of 40 amps 12.6v.
Great video! Thanks!
Well done very educational.
Thanks for sharing. Think it was Flyjabiru not Pete's idea for the bus bars.
He added many solutions to the pack making problems to his credit.
Yes someone else has mentioned this - I need to check out this flyjabiru channel. Thank you.
uk wire 2.5mm good for 40amps . so how much are you taking out in one go. ??. from a tiny pack. pete takes over 80amps
Did you test them to capacity, if they hold the voltage, are there any heater among them.... 👍
You probably did...👍
Bostjan Trancar yes he does
Very nice!
Very good loved the video so what is the maximum current load per pack then?
If the batteries are 2 amps each, 40amps. 20 batteries in parallel with each other.
How much current can you run through those fuse wires continuously? Fantastic video!
It’s 5 amp rated, so as per my previous video you could push a bit more than that through for a while - perhaps 7 amps. It’ll instantly break at 10 amps though.
Engineering newbie here. What are the advantages of using the copper busbar as opposed to nickel plating and tin soldering?
its cheaper,its everywhere and slightly more conductive
Do a vid on your overall 7s20p setup please. What solar panels are you using? Which charge controller? Why did you decide to go with 24v? What inverter, if any?
It’s all coming. It’s a big project for me so it’s all being done over various videos. Cheers.
24v as per a previous vid its impossible to get 12v out of 18650s
Where did you get the fuse wire?
Bus bar & jig. Very nice.
Thanks very much
i need made too same, about 12V and lot capasity.need my 2 solapanel. and then inverter looking what can use my computer. 750W power swupply have.
ive seen very through testing in heating up 18650 cells, and from what I know from soldering to them also to Lipo's too, that cell phone batterys tend to get allot hotter for much much longer periods from just charging them, My ipad is almost molten lava without its case during charging, same with my Samsung S10e, actually you cant even hold the S10e during the end of a full charge In my opinion Soldering them for a few seconds does nothing.however extreme caution should always be used regardless what you do to these
Good idea
Why fuse the negative side?
Use two cable ties at a time thread from either and then join to each other. For the expense it would save a lot of pain.
Not much expense either!
Where is the Solar Shed you have mentioned
Do you have to fuse both sides? Can you fuse just the positive or Just the negative? Than just spot weld the nickle strips on the other side.
Yes you could. I’ve just made all 14 buss bars the same.
does it also multiply the total amps the batteries can deliver in parallel? the more batteries in parallel the more current?
also a follow up question, i have alot of 18650s i tested around 4 to 6 wh (1000-1500 mah) when i discharge them with constant 0.3 amps each they're good and able to retain the same readings last time i tested. but when i discharge them each 1 amp or more they instantly shuts down at 3.6v. if i rest the batteries less than a minute before plugging them back to my charger they're instantly back at 4.0v. are these bad batteries?
what are the physical dimensions of the pack?????
Hello Adam, how many amp hrs did you get on the 4X5 Cell and 7S configuration?
the one cell he showed had 2615mah. or 2.6ah. if all 20 of the cells are the same capacity, then this whole pack will be 52ah (2.6ah X 20). then if he build 7 of these packs and connects them all in series and makes a 7S configuration, the 7S pack Nominal Voltage will be 25.9V and the capacity will be 52ah. in other words it a 1.3kwh battery pack
The little fuse/battery wires look a bit thin. If you crack open a cordless drill battery you'll see what I mean. If your draw off is trickle well it's ok I suppose. With a big load I think your in trouble.
Interestingly that is kind of the point. This is the final protection of the cell from heavy current draw. In a tool battery you are dealing with all brand new matched cells that can handle 20+ amps each. When you are using recycled cells you want to be really nice to them and only draw 2-4 amps max per cell. That’s why we put so many cells in parallel.
The other thing we are protecting from is a cell that goes dead short. These are reused cells so that might happen. When it does the energy from all the cells in parallel gets shorted out through that one dead cell. The fuse blows and it protects the pack.
This was first seen in the Tesla model s battery packs and seems to do a good job of protecting the pack from one bad cell.
The link for your 3D Printed Cable Stripper is not working. I would really like to a copy of the file how can I go about getting a copy. Thank you.
I have a bunch of fuse wire, but I am wondering. Do you need fuse wire on both the top and the bottom or would one or the other be sufficient? It's not easy to get in the states.
Generally people only fuse one side. For me it was just as easy to do both, but it isn’t really necessary.
Thanks! I'm going to make one side of my setup serviceable so I don't want fuses on the side I can't access. I am thinking the positive side would be the service side for easy soldering. Does this make sense to you?
have you had trouble with the red cells. with red insulators? are they sanyo? I have heard they heat ?
They are Sanyos yes. No I haven’t had any issues with heating, but I’ve tested all my cells at 500mA because that’s what my charger would do. Most people charge and discharge at 1amp and find cells which get warm. I’m not intending to pull any more than about 10-15 amps from my pack - so that’s about 500-750ma per cell. So I hope they won’t heat.
Personally, I'd rather not take any risk of damaging the batteries. I bought myself a relatively cheap spot-welder to construct a battery box using nickel-coated wire for the interconnects.
I only used a single fuse between the battery pack and the rest of the circuitry, although I can see the reasoning behind using fuse wire in the way you show. It's probably a bit safer. In that case, I'd spot-weld a short nickel strip to each end of each cell and then solder the fuse wire to that instead of directly to the cell.
I see the reasoning in not heating the cell, but as I showed this method has lead to minimal heating. I do very much like Paul Kennetts method of using pairs of cells and soldering the nickel strip, but my laptop batteries were all single cells so that wasn’t possible for me. Cheers
Adam you have great videos. I just wished you did your project in completion. What I mean is, however many packs are gonna be joined together, well show that. And how to do it. Then, the packs would need a balance lead put on them, show that. How you go about wrapping them all together and then the final step of showing the voltage. Good day mate.
This is all happening. I’m just doing it over multiple videos. Have a look back if you want at my older videos and you’ll find the whole story - well most of it.
Adam Welch Cheers! If I'm looking to build a 12v power pack box. Can I use 3 like the pack you just built. And also did you fuse all 4 batteries together in the row or just 2 (space) then 2, on both top and bottom sides? Thanks for all your tips. You are one of my favorite youtubers.
you could use brass strips..
nice! definitely alot smaller than the other guys lol, maybe 1/10? still its just for the shed for now, experimenting with the small stuff before moving to the big leagues, the whole house :)
Yeah I’ll have a 1kWh pack at the end of this. Plenty big enough to run what I use in the shed.
I was wondering do the - and + terminals need to be on opposite sides or was that a matter of preference for you Adam? Thanks
This,pack how much a e h
Please a,eh
I think Adam did this as when the pack is built, connecting them in series is a simple matter of bolting the positive of one pack to the negative of the next. Odd packs are flipped, so their negatives are up top, even packs are flipped so negatives are on the bottom.
Nice
Question: You've listed everything except the fuse wire in the description... where did you get that?
I've added that now, but to save you opening the description... ebay.to/2kkQPus Cheers
Thank you very much. I didn't even know this existed, so this'll come in handy.
That is the most 'we live in the future thing' I've heard recently. Not knowing about fuse wire!
I guess I've been too used to simply buying new fuses whenever needed.
I just feel old now
How are you going to charge the packs Adam
Solar
Hi
The other guys only fused one side. The opposite were just copper wires. What are your thoughts on that Adam?
Belt and braces? :-) I guess time will tell, but my feeling is that it can't do any harm being fused both sides. My previous 7s4p and 7s8p packs weren't fused on the negative sides and that hasn't presented an issue, so we'll have to see how this one goes.
Reason to fuse one side (+ve) only is that you then know which side to check if it blows, the +ve is easier/quicker/safer to solder replacements if you accidentally short it out, and you gain a tiny little less internal resistance as the total length of fuse wires are smaller.
DOOOOD!
Put a drinking straw in the hole for the cable ties. It will act as a conduit and make it easier to feed the cable ties from one side to the other.
Neat idea. Thanks.
IMPORTANT TIP: Don't put solder on 18650 before coopper... I tried this on another project and the batteries act like a thermal insulator and for me with my 100 watt Harbor Freight gun The solder simply wouldnt melt on the battery.... Battery became too hot to the touch and I had to use anothe battery...
Whenever I have that problem I use a tiny bit of flux and the existing solder melts in under 2 seconds. Without that I have had your problem with the solder not melting even after a full minute of heat.
??? Why would you want to use Restive Fuse Wire ? Why do you want to Restrict each cell to a mere 5 Amps ?
All wire causes resistance but yes, I may have increased this a bit, but it is worth remembering the resistors in parallel rule - so actually the resistance is 1/20th of what it could be. Each cell is limited to 5 amps. That’s 100 amps total for my 20p pack, and far far more than I intend to pull from it. The fuses are primarily to protect from a failure of a single cell. If one cell rapidly went short circuit the other 19 connected in parallel would start to discharge through it. High temperatures would be created and things could get out of hand quickly. So the five amp fuse should pop before that happens. Oh and my cells aren’t high drain - they lower for longer type cells which is how I intend to use them.
Cool Beans. 18650 really possess little threat of ever going internal short by their construction nature. Unlike Poly Packs. Them beast are flat out dangerous, eaa? I use Copper Wire.
hmm him made all positive together and all negative together this have only 3,7 volt but capasitive have big.
nice video
keep it coming
Hi Adam do you have a place i can send a few weird cells to you to take a look at in a video or maybe make something out of them they are 17670 cells and come flat round edge cells that I want to send you
Love it
Hard wire shuld not be crimped better you solder them also...👍
If he uses the right type of crimper, then the crimp will be tight enough that the copper is cold welded inside the lug and to the lug. Depends on which crimper he decides to use for this part ;)
OMG face reveal at 5:50
It happens occasionally.
uh oh, caught the power wall bug.
Fãk me 2
Jesus
NEVER EVER SOLDER DIRECTLY TO A LITHIUM ION CELL!!
DOING SO COULD LEAD TO FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION!
(just sayin'..)
Instead, purchase cells with tabs (for soldering) pre-attached. These are available from Tenergy and other reputable battery suppliers.
there is really no point in twisting solid wire that gauge
I’d disagree. It looks a hell of a lot neater and ensures it all bends the same way nicely. Using two lengths there are always going to be kinks - twisting ensures they are touching all the way along their length and ensures current flows evenly.
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Lol, all peoples on YT show us the same method... and think to be Einstein...
I think I credited some of them in the video. Cheers.
big fail, only totally idiot go soldering li+ion battery and want possiple exploce him face all. lot better buy battery chase holder were can add all battery and holder can wired how want all batterys. or IF make many battery buy 100-300$ can spot welding machine.
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