SEGA Mega Drive (Genesis) 2 | Faulty Controller Port & Reset Button | Can I FIX It? | PART 1
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- Опубликовано: 8 дек 2020
- This is Part 1 of the faulty Mega Drive consoles from eBay. This one has a broken controller port 2 and the reset button doesn't work.
Will I be able to fix it?
Hope you enjoy!
Steve
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The magic things I use to break stuff;
My soldering iron: amzn.to/2Isf360
My leaded solder: amzn.to/3giGtI1
My flux: amzn.to/3lTrPIh
My soldering wick: amzn.to/3groIGn
My microscope: amzn.to/2VP3msU
My blue mat: amzn.to/3mUiIZl
My tweezers: amzn.to/2VOMjYc
My multimeter: amzn.to/2LjBgnN
My oscilloscope: amzn.to/3oPQQpU
My underpants: amzn.to/3gknvjY
PS. I'm not an expert in repairs at all. I do this for fun, and it may not be the best or safest way to go about repairing broken stuff. I'm pretty good at melting plastic though. 
Хобби
Your skills have come a long way since this video! It is impressive how much you've done and learned over the past 2 years. Great job! I've been binge watching these for the past week. Great stuff! :)
The added bonus to those controller ports is you can sit 5mm further away from your tv :p, Also you can use foil tape and blue tack to absorb the heat from delicate plastic parts.
😁 that is a bonus! 🤣
A more civilized era, before the dark times, before the rapping, when stez would snort with laughter at half melting a controller port
Ah Steve thanks for the comment pop-up :) The new modified controller ports you added will do much better than 2 singles, your Mod will add structural integrity 100% 🖖👍
Reset switch' electronic porn that lol A satisfying click!! There are many different motherboard revisions, each with their own variants. 5 in total yours is a VA2 from looks of it.
Thanks Steve! I do love the satisfying click 😁. The other MD board i have is a different revision. I've been working on it today and its completely different! Makes it hard for me to compare board to board to help fault find! 🙄
Nice fix, that is the first time I've heard Sonic at 50hz and it sounds like its in slow motion haha. Loving your videos, keep it up.
Haha, thank you. Yeah, someone else mentioned that too, I didn't even realise there was a difference! I'll have to check out a comparison.
Yeah, I was sure it sounded a little slow, but nice to have someone confirm it.
Poor pal systems. Not quite as blast as the ntsc
There is something amiss because we have pal in Australia and that sounds really slow to me. I have played that on pal over again and that is not right.
Well done Steve I think the ports look just fine they work as for the big scratches on right hand side you may be able too use 1000 & 2000 grit sand paper with some of that T cut can’t wait to see the next video 👍👏👏
I know it‘s been one year since the video came up, but you can use regular 45º DB9 male connectors. I did it in my Atari 26000.
I was going to make that same suggestion. I think it would be much closer to the original controller port placement.
@@John-1984 yes, and it looks good :)
Oh right up my street. I've still got my original second gen console I got new in the 90s. The LED somehow exploded in to a million pieces so now the only way to know it is turned on is when it's connected to the TV but it has no other problems. It has nice big pads and I have just bought a load of soldering equipment so it might be a nice fix to brush up my soldering on because it's not something I've done since school.
You should definitely give the replacement LED a go. Should be a good one to get you back in to soldering. 👍
@@StezStixFix Yep. Will wait for my power brick to arrive because I'd rather use a correctly grounded three pin laptop power brick than the one I currently have then I'll fire up the TS100 and have a play. I've got an LED PCB kit from Amazon that I've soldered all the resistors on to but that's all I dared to do with it until that brick arrives.
Great work. I played Sonic on the Mega Drive for hours....
Today I donˋt have one anymore, but I am doing electronics repairs for a hobby and stream it to the internet.
I hate throwing away repairable tech.
24:10 OMG, I busted out laughing here. When you pull the board off screen, and the whine of the dremel is heard while fading to black, it's like something out of an old horror movie. 😆 The only thing missing was dual controller port screams in the background.
Nice fix though. Ports are fine, and the tactile reset button is an improvement in my opinion. Those membranes are a pain in the a** to get back in their housing.
De-soldering braid may have been the trick with the joystick ports. Also you can use tin-foil to deflect the heat from the plastic (hold it in place with kapton tape).
Good call. I'll try that next time! 👍
@@StezStixFix i know im late but how about buying a decent de soldering gun? I spent under $200 on one and it works great if you know what you're doing.
@@danielpowers5891 He has bought one in the time since this video, and uses it occasionally.
I can't desolder anything. I break everything I try no matter which technique I use
@@carlosgarcialalicataits seems like you dont use the right stuff or something else missing. Keep trying it will succeed one time on the go
Wow! Sonic on PAL sounds really slow to these American ears. I didn’t realize the difference between 50hz and 60hz was so dramatic.
I didn't realise there was a difference either. I'll have to check out the comparison! 😊
Not sure how the port size escaped your notice until reassembly. The moment you test fitted it through the board I thought DAMN, THAT STICKS WAY OUT
That was fun! I do have to say i did spot the difference in length of the two ports before you'd even soldered them on, i just think it adds to the charm of the machine! Awesome reset button fix!
1st class video to watch thank you take care kind regards from me kenneth😜👍
Sigh this was the first Megadrive I got...... Loved the look of the Megadrive 2. Had many a good memory playing on that console until I ended up getting a SNES.
North America: Genesis
Rest of the world: Mega Drive
You can get some paint to fix scratches like that - if I remember correctly it's latex paint - which makes stuff like that almost perfectly if you do it right.
Dremel with a coarse bit in one direction, use fine grit sandpaper to smooth the scratches out, and then use the black scratch remover paste? Should give it a more natural wear and tear look
Good call, I might give that a go 👍
The moment you had those DB9s in I knew they wouldn’t fit. 😃you’ll need the short db9 or the Sega II replacements. But a little hacking never heard anyone before. 😝
What?! They were listed as Sega md II that sucks
Great video, now I have to tac switch mod my mega drive, thanks for that lol
Haha. Its well worth it. Love that click! 😄
the board absorbs a huge amount of heat so i would have used a solder sucker and braid after mixing unleaded solder and you could have used foil to protect the plastic good fix though and i liked the micro switch solution to the reset switch well done mate
Thanks Jon! Yes I completely agree, I was too impatient! I need a better solder sucker I think, the one I have seems to block very easily. I'm pretty handy with the braid, but figured it would take too long. Lesson learnt though, I'll remember for next time! 👍
It looks good. I would be happy with it.
Fame at last 😉
Looking forward to part 2!
Haha. Been working on part 2 today. Let's just say, it was not a fun day! 🤣
Hello I enjoy watching ur videos can I give u a wee tip for removing those ports. Get a large tip run a temp at 380 and flood the pins so they all flow at same time (ps it does take practice) remove port solder wick holes clear just try it cheers
There are several motherboard revisions between the two generations of console. I believe there's a few port types.
Yeah, the board on the second one is completely different. Really confused me as it's the same model number!
Your soldering joints are better than Factory. Nice Fix
Yeah, they went pretty well on this one! Makes a nice change for me 😁
Nice to see someone who's worse that me with a soldering iron..😮😮😮
brilliant channel
Didn't know PAL got the VA4 revision. Neat.
You can sand down that area with 200 grit , 400 grit, 800 grit and upwards to get rid of those scratches
Can you tell me what switche you used for the reset button? I need to replace one
Lift the ridges on the edge of the reset button there’s a small groove it sits in
You are mu Hero!
Can you please tell me what the model number of those cutting snips with the yellow handles are mate? Thanks from Australia 🇦🇺
I have to give you a little hint: Buy the Atari 2600 Controller or Joystick DB9 port for 10 bucks and they will fit great. I put these ones into mine over 20 years ago before I sold it (big mistake)
Thanks
18:21
A masterpiece...
Even had the 80's porn music playing in the background!
There's nothing like a good solder !!
is it possible to replace the top gear 2 chip with the chip on the outrun sega arcade cabinet?
That really is absurd that no actual or better replacement controller ports for a Mega Drive II / Genesis model 2 exist. I've been working on my Genesis model 2 these days, I've replaced the power jack and the reset switch piece (console5 had a new button that works very similar to what you used in your video here, just more to the exact size, so I didn't have to bend the legs), and luckily the two controller ports on mine are just fine. But seriously, I felt that pain in trying to make them fit and work; I was once trying to replace the disc-tray bezel on my "fat" PS2, and I bought the wrong one off eBay, and I was just frustrated and irritated with the whole thing, so I literally "chiseled" enough plastic off the thing to make it "fit", and then super glued it on... lol, at least it was my own console, but I do plan on one day just replacing the entire disc-tray, if I can find a matching model PS2 "for parts" on eBay or something.
I think the reason those two ports where joined together was for strength to stop one of the other coming disconnected from the board because of wiggling in and out the connector with use
Those reset button membranes are a PITA. I struggled and mangled mine till I got it back on and still didn't work. I ordered the replacement from Console5 and it's nice and clicky and works great now.
Aren’t the mega drive 1 and mega drive 2 ports really quite different in length as ZedLabz usually are really spot on with their retro stock parts.
Yeah, they were definitely MD1 ports. I got them off eBay, and not directly from Zedlabz, so it's my bad really!
Yeah mega drive one pcb is a good 10mm+ away from the case as demonstrated with the extra board for the headphone jack. Hence the long body on the replacement ports
Sorry to say it but i noticed that they wouldn't work as soon as I saw them, always try comparing to the part you took off capacitors may not match but connectors should
Great video, Steve. I thought that I'd switched over to Atomic Shrimp's channel at a couple of points...
Haha, thanks Steve. I've just watched the video about his weird sausage finger hands. 🤣
StezStix Fix? Hahaha. You heard the musical connection? By the way - his channel is really worth a watch - interesting variety of stuff.
@@stevespeck3586 thanks, yeah will check out more of his stuff. I wish I had his voice, I think I might work on my tone and delivery for my next video ☺
StezStix Fix? You’re fine as you are, Steve. 👍
Did you test the reset switch on the board prior to removing the membrane? Have fixed 2 of these with faulty reset buttons and the issue was the plastic button not reaching the actual switch, little bit of hot glue on the bottom of the button to give it more reach - easy fix
nicely done! where did you find those controller ports? i have a genesis model one that I need to do the same service ...thanks!
Thabks Rafael. I got them from eBay, I think it was ZedLabs or something similar. You should be able to find them with a quick search! Good luck with the repair 👍
@@StezStixFix perfect! I'll search it up.
to make this membrane in again, you have to push and twist, not so hard but twist with one finger, i done it many times by that method
I was screaming seeing this video for the longer ports and that you have to dremel the holes
I guess you know by now but test the suction on the sucker by using the sucker on your thumb. It should stick or at least come up slowly.
oh a video with no Dave 😭
Then again it's 2 years old this video
I always remove my stickers with a machete Steve. 😊
Questions.
1. Could you have not used your Dremmel to cut the plastic between the two controller ports even while they were still connected to the board? Just being nimble and careful with the cut?
2. I see that you are using a traditional solder sucking stick. At this time you still don't have the electric solder sucking gun that you now have the goes "moo"?
Do you need to flux up those pads prior to soldering? Surely your solder wire has a flux core? I mean, fair enough when desoldering.
Not sure, but I feel more comfortable doing it as the solder does seem to flow better. I will give it a try and see how it works for me next time!
@@StezStixFix It's just a little tip I picked up from watching BigCliveDotCom. Also be aware that transferring solder like that is not always a good thing because the smoke that happens when you apply solder to the iron is the flux core melting. In that one case it may have helped having the pads fluxed but in normal circumstances would just make things more difficult.
@@StezStixFix Just apply the tip and the solder at the same time and you should be good.
Clicky buttons are so damn nice.
I've never heard the PAL version of this music and it sounds so slow. XD
Yeah, I was the same when i heard NTSC for the first time. Wait, whoa this is too fast! 😬
Heck yea. I like the click too.
Heya! came across your channel from Vince's vid and just working through your back catalog, should you ever have issues with reset buttons on this or any of the other sega systems that use the same kind you're much better off removing the whole thing and fitting a microswitch instead, its far better. also for the ports a lot of people desolder the whole piece, pull out the broken pins and feed fresh ones in from a doner to keep it authentic.
Thanks Sparks! That makes sense. 👍 thanks for checking my videos out, much appreciated!
As someone who grew up with the Sega Genesis/Mega Drive this was tough to watch. It's a shame that the only option there really is to fixing the controller ports is to buy and cannibalize another model 2 even if they are seen as a lesser version of the console.
Isn’t the reset just a PTB switch so no continuity when pressed would be normal
0:04 Me, me, me!~~~
😂👍
those replacement ports are meant for big sega megadrive (you got the small one).
DING DING DING! 👌😁
Didn't you saw while unpacking the connectors they are way to long for your version 🙈
A desoldering sucker would have came in clutch
Use 2000 grit wet sanding paper to remove that bad scratch then polish it to restore
Hey stez. Can I suggest to you a electric solder sucker. It's what I use when doing analogue module replacements on xbox one and Ps4 controllers. The cheap ones work fine I can send you a link off need be
Thanks Philip. Believe it or not, I actually have one in the shed! I just haven't tried it yet 😳. I really need to practice on a dead board and give it a go. Serves me right for being lazy. I really should have got it out for this one! ☺
The one I have is about £100 but the cheap £6-£20 ones work the exact same way. The cheap ones are good for quick jobs but wouldn't leave them turned on like I do mine for about a hour why doing multiple controllers. Takes about 5-10 minutes for the cheap ones to heat up I starter with one of them and make sure you get the small nozzle as most the nozzles you can buy on eBay are slightly bigger. Obviously I use the small one as the module solder points are very small on the Ps4 controllers and Xbox one elite controllers
You can also use low melt solder and it will wick off very easy but I find the electric solder sucker to work exactly as I need. I came from cod3r channel as I'm a tech myself and enjoy watching other people's work as you can learn something and also teach something at the same time
Really good to have you here. The hints and tips are always welcomed and appreciated. I'm still new to most of this, so learning new things every day! 👍
@@StezStixFix I'll start my own channel at some point just with Christmas and all the kids birthdays around this time of year I'm stripped for cash. Need to get another shed to store the amount of broken consoles and parts I have as the outbuilding I have atm I can barely get in and I have my work stuff and the back so it's sort of climb in climb out lol
Like 👍
Thanks Saad! 👍
Yeah they are for the master system. Mega drive 1 and 2 are both shorter
Thought as much but I couldn't see the correct ones for sale anywhere. Still, it works nicely so I'm happy with how it turned out! 👍
The Ports you got were for the Mega Drive 1, not 2.
Dave could have given you a hand here.
You didn't notice the difference before soldering?. 🤣. Those ports are for the model 1 and SMS. You can get the "special" ports for model 2 (and 3 I believe) from China.
This is where a SLA/DLP 3d printer is awesome, to 3d print new ports that is close to factory, haven't found any stl or similar for those ports but they can be modelled using blender or similar. Just a tip for any retro game restorers out there.
lets start with the easy one ....
🛀🛀
Thanks Bear! Yeah, in theory you would think that it would help me. The second board is entirely different though, despite the same model number. Still I'm trying my best with it 😊
🐨Damn @@StezStixFix I hate it when revisions are with such drastic changes to them it's impossible to get some comparisons, But Seriously if they are both the same model then, what with the Port problems you experienced, I am thinking is it possible that the one you just repaired is a clone? Mind you it could also be that one is manufactured at some other region "just the mother board" because of short fall demands shortly after it's release and or perhaps for economics using a crap ton of cheaper parts, but then that would require a change in the model number,
oh! oh! Or maybe a slim chance I know, you may have a prototype??? But then what are the odds.. meh! whatever.. Cant wait for the next un.. Err-one to be addressed..
@@KorAllRBare It looks like there are at least 4 different board revisions (for the PAL version anyhow) as I have a V1 and a V4. To confuse things, they gave them all the same model number and you can only tell by taking them apart. The V4 does away with several IC's and chucks them in with the CPU, so it's a much smaller board with less things to go wrong, I guess.
What wrong with sonic? It plays so slow. North American version?
PAL region plays slower at 50hz vs 60hz NTSC
…👏😁🖖
PD - Pre Dave
Time to invest in a heated solder pump. It makes the job a lot easier. You can get one for about $ 15.
Thanks Yvan. Yeah, completely agree! I actually have a desoldering gun in the shed, but I haven't used it yet. I suppose it's time for me to dust that off and have a practice with it! 👍
Sonic at 50hz is just too slow. You really notice it when you are raised in 60hz in the United States.
I thought the music sounded "off" like it was too slow
Wick off the solder
Am I crazy or does his Sonic run slower than normal?
I know this is an old video, but I found a guy who did a fix on the reset button on a Sega Genesis/ Mega Drive, which has a similar reset button. Apparently, the momentary connect surface under the silicone button protector can be resurfaced and then placed back in the receptacle if the plastic is flanged back a bit and then pushed back over the edges of the silicone button once replaced. Here's the guy doing it (I've cued it up to the relevant part):
ruclips.net/video/IOXA7efUD7c/видео.html
The Saga frankin drive 2
I am from outside the UK (the Netherlands), for me it is called Mega Drive too. So why should I call it Genesis?
No one calls it genesis....except for yankies.
It looks like the sticker was removed with a machete.
sounds so slooow xD pal right?
Ew, man. Sticking those sharp metal things all over the place.
Especially around that rubber membrane.
Use a toothpick.
It would bend and break before you could do any damage.
SEGA. Mega. Drive. Genesis. 2. Faulty. Controller port and. Reset
he know that kind of reset botten is a resister reset botten, and he will prolly overload the cpu by none resister reset botten?
must have been said but isn't the name genesis reserved for north america? megadrive is the name in europe, not just UK!
Top bodging 😂
funny history about megadrive2 it is the sega gensis the name was changed for US due to copyright laws there was a company in the US with the name megadrive so sega changed the name to Gensis they got the name from the bible
Esta persona no sabe soldar.
This one looked especially gross on the outside. When you zoomed in I was appalled & disgusted