Might I suggest unbolting the joystick first, and just directly swapping the wires across to the new one, wire by wire. Less chance to get it wrong, then the new joystick can drop in and you'll be done with it, less room for error.
It was because of this video I felt comfortable switching my joysticks out on my X-Arcade controllers. Surprisingly, I was able to get it in there without modification. That small amount of difference isn't enough to stop it from going in; it's just a little harder. I was even able to do this without a helper on both older and newer X-Arcade models.
well done mark, I did this myself. Welcome to the club of Modders. next thing you know you will be putting ICs for memory playback on to the circuts. Kidding of course. But it is just like simple on/off Switches just paid attention. Now you can put in clear buttons and a backlight.
I just bought one of these happ competitions, tonight. It's yellow though. I kept seeing things about how the xarcade 'competition' copycats are okay, but do get mushy after extensive use due to their tongue and round bushing/actuator based system. I saw these and the IL that have the square actuator, decided that's what I wanted to try. I was only able to get one for now, but if I like the results, I'll definitely get 3 more to replace the other 3 joysticks I have in my 2 x arcade duals.
Nice video. All your videos are great, you have the same sense of humor as an old friend of mine. I just did something similar, swapped out an X arcade solo knock off arcade stick with a Sanwa jlw-tm-8, with a red ball top. Did the same thing as you, had to grind out the wood to make it fit, also had to grind the holes bigger because they didn't line up perfectly. But, finally got it done and am very happy with it! Your video helped a lot! You're awesome man!
This is one of the best produced "simple modding vids" ever. Mark always stands for quality when it comes to producing videos. Only thing i don't like is HAPP sticks and buttons. I want my japanese square gated ball top sanwa sticks and convex buttons.
I can tell by the black actuator that this is a new stock Happ Competition, which is not a good thing. Happ used to source their Competition sticks from iL, a Spanish manufacturer. A few years back, they took their molds to a new manufacturer in China. This is bad because the parts in the stick are now made more poorly. No more Cherry switches. The actuator does not rotate as freely on the shaft. Pivot is sloppy. Buy the iL EuroJoystick instead, it is closest to the old-school Happ Comp.
Now that's pretty awesome. HAPP competition sticks are the best for fighting games. I'm not sure how the Tank stick actually works, but the HAPP ones are nice and simple with that adapter hitting the switches.
greetings CGR, I suggest that you buy the Eurojoystick to mod your x arcade because Happ products used to made in Europe by the partnership of Happ and IL . After Happ and IL parted ways, Happ products are made in China. The eurojoystick is the same as the Happ competition joystick but the build quality is better.
Happ competition is a great joystick and they compare very well with Japanese Sanwa and Seimitsu joysticks. They certainly require a lot less maintenance for the most part. Finally, the very best Joystick in the world is the Suzo-Happ P360 circa 1996-8. I would sell left nut to my hands on that classic.
I always wonder, why not just get longer bolts and just install the joystick more deeply into the case and bypass the original hole completely? The joystick looks it has enough clearance to do that and it lowers the joystick putting both hands on a more even level which should feel a bit more comfortable.
great video, it inspired me to swap in happ competition into my own tankstick. i've since only logged a few hours on the happ stick on street fighter iv, but i've been having trouble finding / hitting the corners (diagonal directions), compared to what i've gotten used to with the stock x-arcade stick. am i doing something wrong? do i just need to practice more? any tips on making the transition from a round actuator to a square actuator? sincerely, Where'sMyHadouken?
dude thx sooooo much for uploading this video ive ben debating on if i should get this arcade stick but i couldnt find ne info on wat the guts consisted of,but bc of this bombing vid im def gettin it, chea for that quick disconnect set up.
The Happ's joystick I have doesn't have micro switches. It uses optical censors ( something like that ). So, as you play games you don't hear the clicking noise except for the buttons.
iL is also a good joystick brand for replacing in the tank stick, and these days is of higher quality than the happ (they used to make them for happ, but now happ uses a Chinese manufacturer and cheaper microswitches)
Can you test the x-arcade with the Wii/GC adapter with a game like Super Smash Bros m/b and Luigi's Mansion? I'm a disabled gamer trying to figure out if I should purchase the adapter. I used to love those games, but can no longer use gamepads.
@Jeffy777 Wrong, the IL Eurosticks need to be grinded as well (they are identical to Happ's). Installed two of them on both my solo sticks. Only difference between a Happ and a IL is the white square gate (vs black) and cherry micro switches vs. E-switch.
The white square gate and cherries make a huge difference. First of all the white square is some kind of fibre material while the Happ one is plastic. The IL version is way more durable and does not wear out over time. The Cherries also add Durability and precisiveness over the cheap happ knockoff switches. Happ used to be rebranded ILs but then they merged with another company and started to produce their own derived design (while cutting costs) in China. The quality of the Happs went down. If you want a Happ design, go for Industrial Lorenzo instead, they still are alive and kicking, I just ordered two sticks from Spain.
I wonder if that's specific to the tankstick. I replaced the joysticks on my Dualstick with IL Eurosticks and didn't need to do any grinding at all, it's just a drop in replacement.
Possible. IL used to be the manufacturer for all of Happ's parts until they switched to a Chinese manufacturer. I am unsure of the exact date of the switch. Because of this many people will talk about Happ parts being in machines or sticks but will actually be referring to IL parts and I have a tendency to assume when people are talking about Happ parts they mean "old Happ" IE IL, because next to no one wants "new Happ". (Because the IL parts distributed by Happ are what you would see in any machine in the 80's or 90's.) It never even occured to me he might have a "new Happ" stick in there... Edit: Now that I look again I think you are right and that is a "new Happ" stick in there and not an IL. IL has a white actuator on it where this one has a black one. (Actuator is the square thing that hits the buttons.)
I've been running some small scale retro game competitions for a while now so in my quest to make things better, easier to run, and more authentic I have over time picked up a lot of different controllers. I have a pair of Mad Catz's TE sticks, one I bought at release and another I picked up later to match it. (Got to have identical controls for a competition, obviously.) I found it a lot easier to use once I put in an octagon gate, 2lb tenson spring, and changed out the ball top for a bat top. There are definitely a lot of parts out there for the Sanwa JLF and JLW out there. Ultimarc has some very impressive sticks that use the JLW with their own custom parts to allow it to switch from 8-way to 4-way via servo which is worth checking out. A longer shaft, bat top, and even higher tension spring could probably get the JLF or JLW feeling more like a classic western stick, though they still always feel much more delicate in my hands. If you pick up an x-arcade stick I would recommend the tankstick simply for the trackball. Trying to get a good track ball on it's own is hard. These trackballs can cost around $80 on their own not to mention you'll probably want some kind of PCB controller which adds to the cost. If you want to spend more money recroommasters and monster arcades are some good places to look. The one nice thing about the dual stick over the tankstick though is it's easier to work with since it's all just microswitches. I've changed out all the buttons for IL Convex (old Happ Competition), Groovy Game Gear Microleaf switches, and IL Eurostick for the sticks and it controls great. Some of those JLF parts I mentioned. www.focusattack.com/sanwa-lb-30-n-s-battop-white/ www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/awuk-classic-bat-top-handle.html www.focusattack.com/2lb-tension-spring-for-sanwa-jlf/ www.focusattack.com/sanwa-gt-y-octagonal-restrictor-gate/ Servo Stick (Pretty sure they are putting in longer hafts and stronger springs on these) www.ultimarc.com/servostik.html
To answer your question about the five pin connector I found the following premade harness to make it simple. There isn't anything special about it it's just the four inputs and a common ground. You could easily make your own adapter if you wanted. Simple pushbuttons like these are actually pretty simple to wire. The TP-MA PCB assembly doesn't really serve much of a purpose as far as I can tell other than to make it harder to repair the joystick. www.focusattack.com/187-to-5-pin-conversion-harness/ However your biggest problem is not going to be the adapter plate, or the five pin which you've already found a solution for, but the fact that western sticks are larger and will, as far as I know, simply not fit, depth wise, in the space for one of those MadCatz sticks. Remember too that the Eurostick and other western sticks don't have mounting plates so instead of replacing the plate like you would with a JLF you would be screwing the stick onto the plate and then affixing the plate to the cabinet/control panel. (Edit: Looking at the placement of the holes between a JLF and where IL/Happ put their holes you'll probably also run into issues even with the Kowal plate as it looks like the screws where they would be for a JLF would be going through the Kowal plate into the IL stick body so you might end up having to dremel down the screws too.) SRK would probably be a good place to look into something like that as they have lots of resources about more extreme conversions like this. (Though they really do tend to hate anything that didn't come out of Japan there.) In my opinion it's just not really worth the hassle when you've already got an excellent JLF stick in there already. If you want a western style stick just get one separate for that purpose.
Hey, hows this stick handle for MK9? :) I just ordered mine in the mail for my custom build. I had a no-name chinese 4/8 way one and it's HORRIBLE for jumping sideways... lol
well after seeing both the arcade stick of the tank and this one about the controll i will get this and operate on it even though it the normal $200+ and $30x2 for both side i'm always looing for a way improve me and my friends fighting games experinces
@Saturn2888 I managed to unscrew them eventually using some pliers, I have to say the happ competition isnt the best upgrade, feels sloppy and not much different to the xarcade joystick, as i've found out they dont make Happ joysticks like they used to and IL Eurosticks are the best alternatives, also the poor PCB on the xarcade does not help
there's a website called paradise arcade shop that sells just about anything when it comes to arcade parts. I am building my own arcade stick this summer and am going to use this website primarily for all of the parts necessary.
@Matrilwood You didn't listen at all did you? The original joystick has problems with fighting games after a couple of hours use...he stated that twice.
@CaffeineNicotine You think so? I started off on Sanwa & was missing all sorts of inputs when I bought a Seimitsu stick last winter. After wards, I sold it & never looked back. But, hey. To each his own.
I play Doctor everyday at the local hospital. On an unrelated note I am being summoned to court over numerous accusations and law suits for blow torch incidents. Jokes on them I am not a real doctor =)
@Atif48 Oh yeah, on some older models it's really hard because of the plastic shim on the inside. Use a small wrench and some pliers, and they'll come out eventually. I think getting them back in was also a pain.
For more info on the new Happ Comp quality issue, Google for: happ is now too grimey to use cherry switches. This should find you the "The IL FAQ/Information thread" on SRK. You could just search for that, but then you don't get to say grimey.
Get a japanese arcade stick to review like the mad catz te2 stick that opens up at a touch of a button. Hori and qanba that are $150 are great sticks too. American sticks are archaic
freewilliam93 Happ Style sticks will take more abuse.....We Americans are a violent people. But the European IL's are the best......I assume they rage at the arcade as well.
SargNickFury The IL sticks are the old Happ sticks. IL was the oem for Happ up until sometime in the 00's when they switched to having their products made in China. I have pushbuttons I bought from Happ around 2001 and they have the IL logo on them.
***** Yea true to bad any Xarcade is total shit for old games. Play pac man, donkey kong or any other 4 way game on one and you'll see. Even with their gimmick of turning the part over and calling it 4 way mode. It doesn't work for shit. Why do you think they have EVERY video they put on youtube comments off. Because they would get ripped apart for charging people $200+ shipping for knock off cheap shit parts. THe crime, proper stick and buttons with cherry switches just like the true old games used cost what $1.40 a button and $20 at most for stick. Yet they're to fucking cheap (even though this cost $240 shipped) to do it right. And their slogan "Xgaming doesn't settle and neither should you." right off their website is correct. Don't settle for cheap shit knock off products. Buy anything but an X-arcade
As I've told you multiple times, I have the happ super joysticks the X-arcade is copying, They're almost identical in function, right down to flipping the actuator to change from 4-way to 8-way. They aren't perfect but they're close enough that most people won't notice. (Incidentally Groovy Game Gear has a good acrylic 4-way gate if you'd like to improve upon the 4-way mode of the happ/iL super if that's your thing, no idea if it fits the x-arcade but there's a good chance it will.) Let me tell you something you might not grasp. An X-arcade dual stick is $129 shipped. If you go out, buy a particle board case, get it drilled, paint it, laminate it, add t-molding, then fill it up with a two iL super 8's, 22 iL concave buttons, then put an iPac in it and then get the wiring and the quick disconnects you're going to spend a more than $129. That's assuming you didn't end up needing to purchase any tools along the way or have to pay anyone to do anything labor for you. No one said it's the best stick, but it's a good stick that does a good job at what it's trying to do very well. Again, maybe if you actually had any of these parts to review for yourself anyone would listen to you, but since it seems obvious the only parts you've ever laid hands on are sanwas I can only laugh.
@edbigdogdoherty 2 different companies for 2 different uses...both happ and sanwa have great quality its just preference on either american or japanese parts. i have both cuz most arcades you go to will have american parts so if you wanna get good its a good idea to learn on both.
![Megan Thee Stallion - Bigger In Texas [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QxTkZTLWdo4/mqdefault.jpg)
more like these please. its a nice change of pace. and everyone is fighting game/ fightstick crazy right now.
Might I suggest unbolting the joystick first, and just directly swapping the wires across to the new one, wire by wire. Less chance to get it wrong, then the new joystick can drop in and you'll be done with it, less room for error.
The IL Eurostick fits right in, with no grinding....plus it's a better stick than the Happ.
It was because of this video I felt comfortable switching my joysticks out on my X-Arcade controllers. Surprisingly, I was able to get it in there without modification. That small amount of difference isn't enough to stop it from going in; it's just a little harder. I was even able to do this without a helper on both older and newer X-Arcade models.
well done mark, I did this myself.
Welcome to the club of Modders.
next thing you know you will be putting ICs for memory playback
on to the circuts. Kidding of course.
But it is just like simple on/off Switches just paid attention.
Now you can put in clear buttons and a backlight.
I built a mame cabinet and used these Happ Joysticks, They're great in my opinion and is worth every cent, especially when youre playing fighters.
I just bought one of these happ competitions, tonight. It's yellow though. I kept seeing things about how the xarcade 'competition' copycats are okay, but do get mushy after extensive use due to their tongue and round bushing/actuator based system. I saw these and the IL that have the square actuator, decided that's what I wanted to try. I was only able to get one for now, but if I like the results, I'll definitely get 3 more to replace the other 3 joysticks I have in my 2 x arcade duals.
Nice video. All your videos are great, you have the same sense of humor as an old friend of mine. I just did something similar, swapped out an X arcade solo knock off arcade stick with a Sanwa jlw-tm-8, with a red ball top. Did the same thing as you, had to grind out the wood to make it fit, also had to grind the holes bigger because they didn't line up perfectly. But, finally got it done and am very happy with it! Your video helped a lot! You're awesome man!
This is one of the best produced "simple modding vids" ever. Mark always stands for quality when it comes to producing videos. Only thing i don't like is HAPP sticks and buttons. I want my japanese square gated ball top sanwa sticks and convex buttons.
I can tell by the black actuator that this is a new stock Happ Competition, which is not a good thing. Happ used to source their Competition sticks from iL, a Spanish manufacturer. A few years back, they took their molds to a new manufacturer in China.
This is bad because the parts in the stick are now made more poorly. No more Cherry switches. The actuator does not rotate as freely on the shaft. Pivot is sloppy. Buy the iL EuroJoystick instead, it is closest to the old-school Happ Comp.
now thats the CGR I love. perfect, and unique episode mark. 10/10
i missed this channel damn
Can you do a video on how to change the buttons for new colors?
Wow, that looks like a genuine arcade joystick. Even the size is on par with the real thing.
Now that's pretty awesome. HAPP competition sticks are the best for fighting games. I'm not sure how the Tank stick actually works, but the HAPP ones are nice and simple with that adapter hitting the switches.
I'm learning and laughing my ass off at the same time :)
UnforgivingCritic This is why I have enjoyed this guy's videos for 5 years now.
I bought this joysticks for my arcade pedestal which I built for my ps3 and I love it they are great joysticks.
The background music makes me want to play Tropico.
Mark should review Tropico.
i love that kind of episodes i want more hardware stuff please do more
greetings CGR, I suggest that you buy the Eurojoystick to mod your x arcade because Happ products used to made in Europe by the partnership of Happ and IL . After Happ and IL parted ways, Happ products are made in China. The eurojoystick is the same as the Happ competition joystick but the build quality is better.
Lo que no dices, es que al menos en mi x-arcade antiguo venian las tuercas soldadas y fue imposible retirarlas sin romperlas. Es algo frustrante
Happ competition is a great joystick and they compare very well with Japanese Sanwa and Seimitsu joysticks. They certainly require a lot less maintenance for the most part.
Finally, the very best Joystick in the world is the Suzo-Happ P360 circa 1996-8. I would sell left nut to my hands on that classic.
I always wonder, why not just get longer bolts and just install the joystick more deeply into the case and bypass the original hole completely? The joystick looks it has enough clearance to do that and it lowers the joystick putting both hands on a more even level which should feel a bit more comfortable.
great video, it inspired me to swap in happ competition into my own tankstick. i've since only logged a few hours on the happ stick on street fighter iv, but i've been having trouble finding / hitting the corners (diagonal directions), compared to what i've gotten used to with the stock x-arcade stick. am i doing something wrong? do i just need to practice more? any tips on making the transition from a round actuator to a square actuator?
sincerely,
Where'sMyHadouken?
dude thx sooooo much for uploading this video ive ben debating on if i should get this arcade stick but i couldnt find ne info on wat the guts consisted of,but bc of this bombing vid im def gettin it, chea for that quick disconnect set up.
The Happ's joystick I have doesn't have micro switches. It uses optical censors ( something like that ). So, as you play games you don't hear the clicking noise except for the buttons.
I knew at one point, he'd have to say something about joysticks going into holes. I still laughed.
Mark you are awsome!!... but you installed the dust cover upside-down...
iL is also a good joystick brand for replacing in the tank stick, and these days is of higher quality than the happ (they used to make them for happ, but now happ uses a Chinese manufacturer and cheaper microswitches)
Can you test the x-arcade with the Wii/GC adapter with a game like Super Smash Bros m/b and Luigi's Mansion? I'm a disabled gamer trying to figure out if I should purchase the adapter. I used to love those games, but can no longer use gamepads.
do they all make that clicking sound? The arcade joysticks I remember didn't have that sound.
i wonder if this mod will void the worrinty
@Jeffy777 Wrong, the IL Eurosticks need to be grinded as well (they are identical to Happ's). Installed two of them on both my solo sticks. Only difference between a Happ and a IL is the white square gate (vs black) and cherry micro switches vs. E-switch.
The white square gate and cherries make a huge difference. First of all the white square is some kind of fibre material while the Happ one is plastic. The IL version is way more durable and does not wear out over time. The Cherries also add Durability and precisiveness over the cheap happ knockoff switches. Happ used to be rebranded ILs but then they merged with another company and started to produce their own derived design (while cutting costs) in China. The quality of the Happs went down. If you want a Happ design, go for Industrial Lorenzo instead, they still are alive and kicking, I just ordered two sticks from Spain.
I installed two IL joysticks and buttons, they fit perfectly with no problem, 100% better
Do you own a Madcatz TE Arcade Stick, Mark? Review it!
I wonder if that's specific to the tankstick. I replaced the joysticks on my Dualstick with IL Eurosticks and didn't need to do any grinding at all, it's just a drop in replacement.
Possible. IL used to be the manufacturer for all of Happ's parts until they switched to a Chinese manufacturer. I am unsure of the exact date of the switch. Because of this many people will talk about Happ parts being in machines or sticks but will actually be referring to IL parts and I have a tendency to assume when people are talking about Happ parts they mean "old Happ" IE IL, because next to no one wants "new Happ". (Because the IL parts distributed by Happ are what you would see in any machine in the 80's or 90's.)
It never even occured to me he might have a "new Happ" stick in there...
Edit: Now that I look again I think you are right and that is a "new Happ" stick in there and not an IL. IL has a white actuator on it where this one has a black one. (Actuator is the square thing that hits the buttons.)
I've been running some small scale retro game competitions for a while now so in my quest to make things better, easier to run, and more authentic I have over time picked up a lot of different controllers. I have a pair of Mad Catz's TE sticks, one I bought at release and another I picked up later to match it. (Got to have identical controls for a competition, obviously.) I found it a lot easier to use once I put in an octagon gate, 2lb tenson spring, and changed out the ball top for a bat top. There are definitely a lot of parts out there for the Sanwa JLF and JLW out there. Ultimarc has some very impressive sticks that use the JLW with their own custom parts to allow it to switch from 8-way to 4-way via servo which is worth checking out. A longer shaft, bat top, and even higher tension spring could probably get the JLF or JLW feeling more like a classic western stick, though they still always feel much more delicate in my hands.
If you pick up an x-arcade stick I would recommend the tankstick simply for the trackball. Trying to get a good track ball on it's own is hard. These trackballs can cost around $80 on their own not to mention you'll probably want some kind of PCB controller which adds to the cost. If you want to spend more money recroommasters and monster arcades are some good places to look.
The one nice thing about the dual stick over the tankstick though is it's easier to work with since it's all just microswitches. I've changed out all the buttons for IL Convex (old Happ Competition), Groovy Game Gear Microleaf switches, and IL Eurostick for the sticks and it controls great.
Some of those JLF parts I mentioned.
www.focusattack.com/sanwa-lb-30-n-s-battop-white/
www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/awuk-classic-bat-top-handle.html
www.focusattack.com/2lb-tension-spring-for-sanwa-jlf/
www.focusattack.com/sanwa-gt-y-octagonal-restrictor-gate/
Servo Stick (Pretty sure they are putting in longer hafts and stronger springs on these)
www.ultimarc.com/servostik.html
To answer your question about the five pin connector I found the following premade harness to make it simple. There isn't anything special about it it's just the four inputs and a common ground. You could easily make your own adapter if you wanted. Simple pushbuttons like these are actually pretty simple to wire. The TP-MA PCB assembly doesn't really serve much of a purpose as far as I can tell other than to make it harder to repair the joystick.
www.focusattack.com/187-to-5-pin-conversion-harness/
However your biggest problem is not going to be the adapter plate, or the five pin which you've already found a solution for, but the fact that western sticks are larger and will, as far as I know, simply not fit, depth wise, in the space for one of those MadCatz sticks. Remember too that the Eurostick and other western sticks don't have mounting plates so instead of replacing the plate like you would with a JLF you would be screwing the stick onto the plate and then affixing the plate to the cabinet/control panel. (Edit: Looking at the placement of the holes between a JLF and where IL/Happ put their holes you'll probably also run into issues even with the Kowal plate as it looks like the screws where they would be for a JLF would be going through the Kowal plate into the IL stick body so you might end up having to dremel down the screws too.)
SRK would probably be a good place to look into something like that as they have lots of resources about more extreme conversions like this. (Though they really do tend to hate anything that didn't come out of Japan there.)
In my opinion it's just not really worth the hassle when you've already got an excellent JLF stick in there already. If you want a western style stick just get one separate for that purpose.
I have not used one. I am mostly familiar with western parts as that is what I had in my X-men vs. Streetfighter cab I got in 2000.
how are the il euro stick is bought two of them and should get them end of week hopefully will receive the tank stick by next week
hey john phillips, did you got those cherry switches online? if you did, what is the website?
lord carnage is pleased with you mark
Hey, hows this stick handle for MK9? :) I just ordered mine in the mail for my custom build. I had a no-name chinese 4/8 way one and it's HORRIBLE for jumping sideways... lol
well after seeing both the arcade stick of the tank and this one about the controll i will get this and operate on it even though it the normal $200+ and $30x2 for both side i'm always looing for a way improve me and my friends fighting games experinces
@Broyale26 We are currently booked with dermatology sugary, but i think i can squeeze you in later.
Hey, it's the song from Tropico 4!
great explanation, thanks :)
@Saturn2888 I managed to unscrew them eventually using some pliers, I have to say the happ competition isnt the best upgrade, feels sloppy and not much different to the xarcade joystick, as i've found out they dont make Happ joysticks like they used to and IL Eurosticks are the best alternatives, also the poor PCB on the xarcade does not help
Thank you 4 the info🌞🍎😘
thanks for the great video.
have to get one of these
there's a website called paradise arcade shop that sells just about anything when it comes to arcade parts. I am building my own arcade stick this summer and am going to use this website primarily for all of the parts necessary.
@Matrilwood
You didn't listen at all did you? The original joystick has problems with fighting games after a couple of hours use...he stated that twice.
@CaffeineNicotine You think so? I started off on Sanwa & was missing all sorts of inputs when I bought a Seimitsu stick last winter. After wards, I sold it & never looked back. But, hey. To each his own.
Hahaha maybe I'm just a perv, but Mark saying, "I'm going to insert the joystick" made me snicker a little.
But....Will it blend?
Great review. I'd love to play arcade games too but I can never get MAME to work :-(.
I like these geeky tech video's!
The sound the stick makes at 4:59 is exactly like a horse.
Where did you get prices for the wires ?
I don't get the innuendo. :(
Can anyone tell me what microphone Mark is using?
I really want to get a bat stick for my controller.
I would've fucked this up hard if I had to do this. Good on you Mike!
sanwa owns happ... big time
Cameo appearance by the Nintendo 3DS!
Good upgrade
LOL I knew the 3D picture wouldn't come out that well so close to the subject. :-P
Lizard lick. com? is it associated with Lizard lick towing?
Review the Steel Batallion Peripheral.
RE: Broken Doorknobs, did you try using a butter knife?
I feel like i just watched a commercial for Extenz, especially at the end.
Nothin' like having a stick with some solid girth in your hand.
--Err, while playing a game, I mean.
Who seriously would spend 45 minutes grinding that? That's insanity.
I play Doctor everyday at the local hospital.
On an unrelated note I am being summoned to court over numerous accusations and law suits for blow torch incidents.
Jokes on them I am not a real doctor =)
Might as well switch those stock buttons with IL buttons.
@Atif48 Oh yeah, on some older models it's really hard because of the plastic shim on the inside. Use a small wrench and some pliers, and they'll come out eventually. I think getting them back in was also a pain.
Website?
It's been a long time since i have scene the inside of an arcade console but Those switches. Are called micro switches.
your new happ hole dust cover is upside down :)
Super cool
Oh and the spring.
For more info on the new Happ Comp quality issue, Google for: happ is now too grimey to use cherry switches.
This should find you the "The IL FAQ/Information thread" on SRK. You could just search for that, but then you don't get to say grimey.
You're remembering analog sticks, then. Digital sticks all have that click.
swap those concave buttons for some convex buttons, unless you've already done that.
buton name???? bro
@TeamRocketReviews It's personal taste Mr. Buffoon, I happen to prefer seimitsu and the original namco stick.
Mark doesn't respond to our comments anymore.
Get a japanese arcade stick to review like the mad catz te2 stick that opens up at a touch of a button. Hori and qanba that are $150 are great sticks too. American sticks are archaic
freewilliam93 And so are the old games people buy this stick to play. Notice a pattern?
freewilliam93 Happ Style sticks will take more abuse.....We Americans are a violent people. But the European IL's are the best......I assume they rage at the arcade as well.
SargNickFury The IL sticks are the old Happ sticks. IL was the oem for Happ up until sometime in the 00's when they switched to having their products made in China. I have pushbuttons I bought from Happ around 2001 and they have the IL logo on them.
***** Yea true to bad any Xarcade is total shit for old games. Play pac man, donkey kong or any other 4 way game on one and you'll see. Even with their gimmick of turning the part over and calling it 4 way mode. It doesn't work for shit. Why do you think they have EVERY video they put on youtube comments off. Because they would get ripped apart for charging people $200+ shipping for knock off cheap shit parts. THe crime, proper stick and buttons with cherry switches just like the true old games used cost what $1.40 a button and $20 at most for stick. Yet they're to fucking cheap (even though this cost $240 shipped) to do it right. And their slogan "Xgaming doesn't settle and neither should you." right off their website is correct. Don't settle for cheap shit knock off products. Buy anything but an X-arcade
As I've told you multiple times, I have the happ super joysticks the X-arcade is copying, They're almost identical in function, right down to flipping the actuator to change from 4-way to 8-way. They aren't perfect but they're close enough that most people won't notice. (Incidentally Groovy Game Gear has a good acrylic 4-way gate if you'd like to improve upon the 4-way mode of the happ/iL super if that's your thing, no idea if it fits the x-arcade but there's a good chance it will.)
Let me tell you something you might not grasp. An X-arcade dual stick is $129 shipped. If you go out, buy a particle board case, get it drilled, paint it, laminate it, add t-molding, then fill it up with a two iL super 8's, 22 iL concave buttons, then put an iPac in it and then get the wiring and the quick disconnects you're going to spend a more than $129. That's assuming you didn't end up needing to purchase any tools along the way or have to pay anyone to do anything labor for you.
No one said it's the best stick, but it's a good stick that does a good job at what it's trying to do very well. Again, maybe if you actually had any of these parts to review for yourself anyone would listen to you, but since it seems obvious the only parts you've ever laid hands on are sanwas I can only laugh.
Sweet! :)
I put on my lab coat when you told me to.
Por mucha palanca buena que le pongas la conexion de mando es de teclado, no trabaja con salidas inputs como un verdadero joystick
U dont have to replace the whole joystick really. just replace the leaf switches with push buttons. works alot bettr
Is it a 4 way and 8 way joystick ?
thinks it's circular
it's an 8 way stick
I guess, you need to change other one too. To White!
making a handle on it (it'd be on the inside cause this thing needs to stand up properly)
+TheKHfan358over3d putting a handle would be bad was what I meant because it wouldn't be able to stand properly
Nice.
Why there is some random salsa song playing in the background?
+Salvadore0ran because reasons
no need for none
+Salvadore0ran Because stock music.
dat Tropico 3 music lol
You mean you'll be reviewing actual games again?
@CaptainPoovabladoo That is also a good joystick, though still no old P360
True fans watch in 240p =P
TANK STICK! thats what she said :D
Found a local arcade selling these new for 8$ each >:D
@edbigdogdoherty 2 different companies for 2 different uses...both happ and sanwa have great quality its just preference on either american or japanese parts. i have both cuz most arcades you go to will have american parts so if you wanna get good its a good idea to learn on both.
Just replacing the switches with Cherry switches. Easier and quicker.