+arcadeimpossible Thanks, glad I can help some way. I watch yours and John's videos all the time. If you run into any big issues hit me up via the website and i'll try and help. Maybe a UK-USA crossover sometime.
'pop a cap in its vector circuit'? lol. Nothing wrong with injecting a bit of humour, works for me m8ty. Loving the new layout too, very professional. Oh, and no nightclub music. Just the ambiance of background electronic telemetry. Much like being on the bridge of the Liberator from Blake's 7, only with better sets. You never fail to amaze me with your sheer tenacity and patience. All the best James, and I am looking forward to your future repair uploads, my garden shed moments of blokeyness with a decent brew. Magic.
So what you have on your monitor is how my asteroids arcade machine looks. How do I fix that? (The dots in the middle of the asteroids and all the words connected together with lines)
+Julian Schoeneberg first try turning down the G2 (screen) voltage on the monitor, if its too high you'll get the bright dot and the trace lines. If that doesn't solve it you need to look at the Z-OUT section on the PCB. This tells the monitor to shut the beam off and on while the gun moves to the new position to start drawing from.
+unebonnevie the board puts out two channels, X and Y, you hook these to channel 1 and channel 2 and put the scope in X-DEFL (x-deflection) mode which lets it move the scope dot in conjunction with the X and Y (ch1 and 2) inputs - some scopes have a Z input as well which is for blanking (turning off the dot while the x/y moves elsewhere). Only old CRT style scopes can do this properly - modern DSO's can't keep up with the analogue speed (ok, maybe super high end ones might - certainly the one I was using here doesn't)
Hi, after a few minutes my screen starts to "pulse" and then enlarges to the point i can't see the score area and ship size, asteroid size increases. Any thoughts?
Sounds like the power supply side of your monitor at first thoughts, if you have an Electrohome G05-801, try checking the voltage going to the deflection board - it should be stable at 90v (you'll need to read the schematics to find the exact points to test at). Also check you have 25v going into the HV cage - if this is going up and down then this will cause the screen to expand/shrink. Start here. Similarly it could be in your analogue section but I think its more monitor related.
I don't think you'll physically have room for both boards in a cocktail table. The boards are 99% compatible with the wiring in that I think some of the buttons are mapped differently but the board won't blow up if you plug a deluxe board into a the cab or vice versa. I can't think of a reliable way to have a switcher although there might be one of the braze multigame kits that does all the asteroids games.
Retro Games Party Can you please message me (arcadedude44@gmail.com) if you would be willing to offer repair services on my Stargate boardset? Best regards...Greg
+Salvatore T Hi, biggest problem with vector games is figuring out which part is bad. If you can hook a scope up like my setup at the back of your game (see my response to unebonnevie in these comments) then you can determine if the board or monitor are at fault. Check that you have all the right voltages ON the board, not just going into the board - in the video I mention +/-15v which is derived from +/-36vAC input so the output stage to the monitor doesn't work without both the 15v lines. Your monitor is looking for a swing voltage around 10v so if you find you have a picture from the scope you might have turned up the v/div to like 0.2v/div which means not enough voltage at the output stage but the vector drawing is working - if that's the case work backwards into the amp circuit (DAC's etc), if you're getting +/-10v swing on the output then your monitor is likely the issue at which point start by checking your monitor is making all its right voltages etc and then work forwards from there. I have made wire looms up for most things so I can pull monitors out and extend boards out etc to make it easier but any good scope probe with a hook clip for the tip is fine as there's plenty of surface area to grab things onto. Just basically trace the input signal until it stops - you might find its as simple as tarnished connectors for the X/Y transistors which happens a lot on those.
+unebonnevie they are all online and I have managed to collect a number of original manuals but I find the digital ones easier to work with. If you join one of the communities like UKVAC or KLOV there are links to all the different sites. Our website will soon carry some links to resources as well.
These schematics say 25 VAC not 36VAC !? www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/A/AstDlx-Cabaret-sp.pdf 16:42 this looks different also.... Do I have the wrong schematics? EDIT: Seems there are at least 2 maybe 3 versions of the board and schematics.
Just keep in mind, if you can't explain how something works, then you don't understand how it works. And that's ok, nobody knows everything, and the learning process is a good thing. But don't fool yourself, and certainly don't try to fool others into thinking you know more than you do. They can tell ;)
Bit of a glib attitude sadly but that's your opinion and i'll fight to the death to protect your right to voice it. However, sometimes, getting it wrong is the only way we learn, i'm sure at a couple of points in the video I do declare myself not to be an expert on this field but i'd rather publish the video than hide away in a corner and be afraid of speaking. If you know about this stuff, make videos on it, share your knowledge, help people understand this old tech like i'm trying to.
Old video I know, but Sorry Star Gazer your way wrong. It in no way means he doesn't understand how it works, when you're trying to explain things in a way everyone can understand it's easy to get tongue tied. After nearly 40 years of post qualification experience, including teaching Electronics servicing. I still get tongue tied at times trying to explain how part of a circuit works. It happens more when your trying to get things over in a limited time, to keep your audience interested. Personally I think the guy is doing an excellent job.
loving this repair series. I've been studying electronics to aid in repairs, logic probe usage, gates, etc. You're videos are helping a lot :)
+arcadeimpossible Thanks, glad I can help some way. I watch yours and John's videos all the time. If you run into any big issues hit me up via the website and i'll try and help. Maybe a UK-USA crossover sometime.
'pop a cap in its vector circuit'? lol. Nothing wrong with injecting a bit of humour, works for me m8ty. Loving the new layout too, very professional. Oh, and no nightclub music. Just the ambiance of background electronic telemetry. Much like being on the bridge of the Liberator from Blake's 7, only with better sets. You never fail to amaze me with your sheer tenacity and patience. All the best James, and I am looking forward to your future repair uploads, my garden shed moments of blokeyness with a decent brew. Magic.
A Great Video! I myself am working on my second Asteroids PCB. Thank you very much for your Presentation!
Caps are most of the problems in old things. I always replace them if it is a important volt line
excellent video, thanks for posting!
So what you have on your monitor is how my asteroids arcade machine looks. How do I fix that? (The dots in the middle of the asteroids and all the words connected together with lines)
Big bright dot in the middle as well
+Julian Schoeneberg first try turning down the G2 (screen) voltage on the monitor, if its too high you'll get the bright dot and the trace lines. If that doesn't solve it you need to look at the Z-OUT section on the PCB. This tells the monitor to shut the beam off and on while the gun moves to the new position to start drawing from.
THNX… My cocktail AD last seen 1995 needs restore...you've impressed me I have hope now... will resurrect notified when done?
How do you get the board drawn on your scope? Thanks!
+unebonnevie the board puts out two channels, X and Y, you hook these to channel 1 and channel 2 and put the scope in X-DEFL (x-deflection) mode which lets it move the scope dot in conjunction with the X and Y (ch1 and 2) inputs - some scopes have a Z input as well which is for blanking (turning off the dot while the x/y moves elsewhere). Only old CRT style scopes can do this properly - modern DSO's can't keep up with the analogue speed (ok, maybe super high end ones might - certainly the one I was using here doesn't)
i too love these videos. fascinating and educational :)
impresionante el juego en la pantalla del osciloscopio
Hi, after a few minutes my screen starts to "pulse" and then enlarges to the point i can't see the score area and ship size, asteroid size increases. Any thoughts?
Sounds like the power supply side of your monitor at first thoughts, if you have an Electrohome G05-801, try checking the voltage going to the deflection board - it should be stable at 90v (you'll need to read the schematics to find the exact points to test at). Also check you have 25v going into the HV cage - if this is going up and down then this will cause the screen to expand/shrink. Start here. Similarly it could be in your analogue section but I think its more monitor related.
Thank you!
I've got an asteroids cocktail on order. Is it possible to have both asteroids and asteroids deluxe available in one cocktail game? Thanks
I don't think you'll physically have room for both boards in a cocktail table. The boards are 99% compatible with the wiring in that I think some of the buttons are mapped differently but the board won't blow up if you plug a deluxe board into a the cab or vice versa. I can't think of a reliable way to have a switcher although there might be one of the braze multigame kits that does all the asteroids games.
Awesome info, thanks so much for sharing this information! :)
No problem, happy to share knowledge. If its something you can fix yourself go for it, if not, I can.
Retro Games Party
Can you please message me (arcadedude44@gmail.com) if you would be willing to offer repair services on my Stargate boardset? Best regards...Greg
Hi Greg, i've emailed you direct on this.
I can hear the game being played but the screen (monitor) is black. any suggestions???Thanks Sal
+Salvatore T Hi, biggest problem with vector games is figuring out which part is bad. If you can hook a scope up like my setup at the back of your game (see my response to unebonnevie in these comments) then you can determine if the board or monitor are at fault. Check that you have all the right voltages ON the board, not just going into the board - in the video I mention +/-15v which is derived from +/-36vAC input so the output stage to the monitor doesn't work without both the 15v lines. Your monitor is looking for a swing voltage around 10v so if you find you have a picture from the scope you might have turned up the v/div to like 0.2v/div which means not enough voltage at the output stage but the vector drawing is working - if that's the case work backwards into the amp circuit (DAC's etc), if you're getting +/-10v swing on the output then your monitor is likely the issue at which point start by checking your monitor is making all its right voltages etc and then work forwards from there. I have made wire looms up for most things so I can pull monitors out and extend boards out etc to make it easier but any good scope probe with a hook clip for the tip is fine as there's plenty of surface area to grab things onto. Just basically trace the input signal until it stops - you might find its as simple as tarnished connectors for the X/Y transistors which happens a lot on those.
Hi, where do you get all the Asteroids PCB's schematics? Thanks!
+unebonnevie they are all online and I have managed to collect a number of original manuals but I find the digital ones easier to work with. If you join one of the communities like UKVAC or KLOV there are links to all the different sites. Our website will soon carry some links to resources as well.
those jumps of the image are sparks inside components, like caps.
Ben, whats the CRT for that i saw in the background?
Amy Marie Its James, which CRT? The commodore 1084S? Or the one to the left?
These schematics say 25 VAC not 36VAC !?
www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/A/AstDlx-Cabaret-sp.pdf
16:42 this looks different also.... Do I have the wrong schematics?
EDIT: Seems there are at least 2 maybe 3 versions of the board and schematics.
very nice video, love the text overlay you have going too :)
John Beresford Just trying to professional it up a bit, make it easier for people to see what's going on.
Great Episode :D
Its hard to learn from your channel as you keep rambling too much. Stick to the topic
Unlikely to happen. That's just the way I am, my mind wanders a lot. There is no TL;DR for arcade PCB repair.
Just keep in mind, if you can't explain how something works, then you don't understand how it works. And that's ok, nobody knows everything, and the learning process is a good thing. But don't fool yourself, and certainly don't try to fool others into thinking you know more than you do. They can tell ;)
Bit of a glib attitude sadly but that's your opinion and i'll fight to the death to protect your right to voice it.
However, sometimes, getting it wrong is the only way we learn, i'm sure at a couple of points in the video I do declare myself not to be an expert on this field but i'd rather publish the video than hide away in a corner and be afraid of speaking.
If you know about this stuff, make videos on it, share your knowledge, help people understand this old tech like i'm trying to.
Old video I know, but Sorry Star Gazer your way wrong. It in no way means he doesn't understand how it works, when you're trying to explain things in a way everyone can understand it's easy to get tongue tied. After nearly 40 years of post qualification experience, including teaching Electronics servicing. I still get tongue tied at times trying to explain how part of a circuit works. It happens more when your trying to get things over in a limited time, to keep your audience interested. Personally I think the guy is doing an excellent job.
Star Gazer don't be a Ass Hole !