Highlight of my day is when a new 135 video posts. I just bought my first tractor, a 1970 135. Same model my grandpa had and it was the one I grew up driving. The engine has been rebuilt but I'm finding various and sundry parts that need to be changed, cleaned of rust (fuel tank). Your injection pump video helped me out massively. Lot of gunk in the screens but I got it all out and resealed the leaky parts. Thanks for what you do, Lance.
Hi Lance, love all the videos. I can’t watch enough, your a world of knowledge and you make it all look easy. I’m doing up a 35x over in Ireland. I’ve the engine and front axle done but still a bit of work on the steering box and back end to do. Keep the videos coming, their helping my mechanical confidence greatly.
Thanks Lance that was very good. I hope that everything was alright in regards to the fires have been watching it on Sky bloody frightening, regards John
G’day Lance, great video. Your new camera gives a great picture. Clearer than the old one, although only noticed it in the stew when you switched back and forth. I’m sure you’ll be happy with it despite it taking long to arrive.
Now a days the bearings are made well and it is very rarely needed but I do like to check a few just in case. Not really needed just a peace of mind thing.
Thanks for the superb videos Lance. I am just fitting new big end shells to my AD3.152 with the engine still in place. I have removed self locking nuts but should the new black phosphated nuts be fitted without tab washers or Loctite? Would value your opinion please
Hi Lance I have just assembled a Perkins 212 engine, the kit was vapourmatic, I've fitting new liners,pistons and rings following your video with regard to the rings staggered either side of the gudgeon pin and plenty of oil, fitted sump and turned engine over by hand! I've now noticed vertical score marks on the liner, what could be possibly be causing this ? Everything is spotless clean with no dirt or contamination anywhere! Is it possible that the parts are just rubbish? I assumed they were made in the UK but now I'm told they are made in India even though it said UK on the boxes, just not sure what to do next, I can't catch my nail in the marks but I can see them! Thanks Wesley
Sometimes the end of a piston ring can make a mark but not a groove. You may have a burr on a ring. Normally its not a problem just a mark that disappears on running the tractor. This is presuming the ring was sitting down correctly on assembly. If in doubt drop the piston out for a look.
Ya that is exactly what I was thinking! Just want to be sure to be sure! I've put conrods back exactly as they came out, the numbers were facing the lift pump side of the engine but looking at the manual it says they should face the injector pump side! so looks like I'm going to have to pull the lot again! Is this crucial as the rods look even all round on both sides, someone must have been at it before and put them back facing the wrong side! Thanks so much for your advice! Your videos are amazing and have helped me so much👍
Can you help? How do I insert the small end bearings? I tried putting it in the freezer, heating the conrod to 150 C and then pressing it in. I got one in but I fear I may have distorted it It was a struggle and now I cannot insert the gudgeon. You don't seem to show this on your videos - or I can't find it
@@BundyBearsShed I'm a member of the Wallarobba Brigade of the NSWRFS, our Captain left with one of our trucks on Wednesday heading to your area to help out.
Hi Lance. I love your work and have watched many of your very informative videos. I wonder if I could please ask you for your opinion. I have just about finished installing my recently overhauled petrol engine in my 1949 grey fergie. The engine overhaul was done by a reputable company here in Melbourne. I was about to install the petrol tank and probably only about 15 minutes from starting it for the first time. I needed to add some more oil and on checking the dipstick showed it overfull and looked watery. I checked the radiator and all the water in the radiator is now in the sump. Needless to say I am devastated and am at a loss to know exactly what has happened. It was a complete overhaul with liners, pistons, crankshaft grind and head reconditioned. Apart from a cracked block and failed seals under the liners do you know of anything else which could be the cause? All the water disappeared over a very short period of time, so I would not have thought a crack would leak this much water. Perhaps there is something I might have forgotten. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Cheers Perry Carter
G Day Perry, There is an alloy plug in the top of the cylinder head that can be corroded that can let some water in but only down to the level of the top of the cylinder head. This can be checked by removing the tappet cover. If it is more water than that I would suggest a lower liner seal. The engine reconditioner should fix it for free as it would be re work for sure if they have just replaced the liners.
@@BundyBearsShedHi again Lance. Thank you for your reply. I have checked the alloy plug and from the top it looks ok. I guess the only real way of checking is to remove the head, but I don't want to do that before I speak to the people who did the overhaul. The level of water only leaks out to the level of the head gasket. When I look down through the cavity in the head between the second and third cylinder with a torch I can see water which is being disturbed by dripping but I can't see where it is coming from. I am pretty sure the leak is at head gasket level. It takes about 30 minutes to drain about 2 litres of water (After I added water to the radiator) down to head gasket level. What is the thing in the rear of the head and covered with an oval shaped cover plate? Is there any way my leak is coming from there? I now suspect that whatever is causing this leak was there before the overhaul because I was having trouble with oil leaking into the sump then, but thought it was the liner seals. I will contact the people who did the overhaul and see what they think. Your opinion and advice is greatly appreciated Lance. Thank you. Cheers Perry.
@@BundyBearsShed Hi again Lance. I took the engine back to the reconditioners and they found that the head around the water jacket had corroded so much that there was not enough flat area on the face of the head to seal with the head gasket. They built it up with some sort of filler and it seems fine now. It was very difficult to see this as a potential problem and they fixed it with no charge. Thank you again for your suggestions.
![Lil Uzi Vert - We Good [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/DrSfBULAsek/mqdefault.jpg)
Highlight of my day is when a new 135 video posts. I just bought my first tractor, a 1970 135. Same model my grandpa had and it was the one I grew up driving. The engine has been rebuilt but I'm finding various and sundry parts that need to be changed, cleaned of rust (fuel tank). Your injection pump video helped me out massively. Lot of gunk in the screens but I got it all out and resealed the leaky parts.
Thanks for what you do, Lance.
Thankyou.
Hi Lance - the best way to start my day is watching one of your video updates - up to 19 already!
Thanks Charles, Hopefully I will get a weeks worth done this weekend if i dont get visitors that want to drink beer with me, lol.
Hi Lance, love all the videos. I can’t watch enough, your a world of knowledge and you make it all look easy. I’m doing up a 35x over in Ireland. I’ve the engine and front axle done but still a bit of work on the steering box and back end to do. Keep the videos coming, their helping my mechanical confidence greatly.
G Day David, That is good news, I am working my way back so steering probably wont be too far away.
Great video Lance, as ever! Looking forward to the steering box rebuild, that's my next big job!
Shouldnt be far away.
Thanks Lance that was very good. I hope that everything was alright in regards to the fires have been watching it on Sky bloody frightening, regards John
G Day John, All good here fires were 50k away.
G’day Lance, great video. Your new camera gives a great picture. Clearer than the old one, although only noticed it in the stew when you switched back and forth. I’m sure you’ll be happy with it despite it taking long to arrive.
G Day Gordon, I thought the pic was better but the sound needs some fine tuning. I will put some time into that this weekend.
Is there any need to use plastigauge on the conrod bearings as you used on the crankshaft?
Now a days the bearings are made well and it is very rarely needed but I do like to check a few just in case. Not really needed just a peace of mind thing.
Thanks for the superb videos Lance. I am just fitting new big end shells to my AD3.152 with the engine still in place. I have removed self locking nuts but should the new black phosphated nuts be fitted without tab washers or Loctite? Would value your opinion please
If you have the tabs fit them if not a little loctite is fine.
Hi Lance
I have just assembled a Perkins 212 engine, the kit was vapourmatic, I've fitting new liners,pistons and rings following your video with regard to the rings staggered either side of the gudgeon pin and plenty of oil, fitted sump and turned engine over by hand! I've now noticed vertical score marks on the liner, what could be possibly be causing this ? Everything is spotless clean with no dirt or contamination anywhere! Is it possible that the parts are just rubbish? I assumed they were made in the UK but now I'm told they are made in India even though it said UK on the boxes, just not sure what to do next, I can't catch my nail in the marks but I can see them! Thanks Wesley
Sometimes the end of a piston ring can make a mark but not a groove. You may have a burr on a ring. Normally its not a problem just a mark that disappears on running the tractor. This is presuming the ring was sitting down correctly on assembly. If in doubt drop the piston out for a look.
Ya that is exactly what I was thinking! Just want to be sure to be sure! I've put conrods back exactly as they came out, the numbers were facing the lift pump side of the engine but looking at the manual it says they should face the injector pump side! so looks like I'm going to have to pull the lot again! Is this crucial as the rods look even all round on both sides, someone must have been at it before and put them back facing the wrong side!
Thanks so much for your advice! Your videos are amazing and have helped me so much👍
@@wesleyallen3421 Probably not that critical but do it just in case so you can enjoy the tractor without that niggle in the back of your mind.
@@BundyBearsShed Perfect! I will indeed as It will be on my mind😂😂, thanks a lot!
great video as always lance .
Thanks.
Can you help? How do I insert the small end bearings?
I tried putting it in the freezer, heating the conrod to 150 C and then pressing it in. I got one in but I fear I may have distorted it
It was a struggle and now I cannot insert the gudgeon.
You don't seem to show this on your videos - or I can't find it
The small end bearings can be pressed in but then the conrod needs to be resized. The bearings are made small so they can adjust alignment a little.
Thanks@@BundyBearsShed
Nice work👍
Thank you! Cheers!
I hope you are safe from the fires.....Geoff
Yeah Geoff, they are north of us at present, approx 50k
@@BundyBearsShed I'm a member of the Wallarobba Brigade of the NSWRFS, our Captain left with one of our trucks on Wednesday heading to your area to help out.
Hello Lance, Did you hone the liners? If you did do you have any footage? Thanks!
No they are already the correct finish.
@@BundyBearsShed Thanks!
If you fail a flexigauge either too small or too large what is the solution?
Either wrong bearings, worn crank or the wrong thickness flexigauge. I often use the red one.
good vid well done
Thanks Bill.
Hi Lance. I love your work and have watched many of your very informative videos. I wonder if I could please ask you for your opinion. I have just about finished installing my recently overhauled petrol engine in my 1949 grey fergie. The engine overhaul was done by a reputable company here in Melbourne. I was about to install the petrol tank and probably only about 15 minutes from starting it for the first time. I needed to add some more oil and on checking the dipstick showed it overfull and looked watery. I checked the radiator and all the water in the radiator is now in the sump. Needless to say I am devastated and am at a loss to know exactly what has happened. It was a complete overhaul with liners, pistons, crankshaft grind and head reconditioned. Apart from a cracked block and failed seals under the liners do you know of anything else which could be the cause? All the water disappeared over a very short period of time, so I would not have thought a crack would leak this much water. Perhaps there is something I might have forgotten. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Cheers Perry Carter
G Day Perry, There is an alloy plug in the top of the cylinder head that can be corroded that can let some water in but only down to the level of the top of the cylinder head. This can be checked by removing the tappet cover. If it is more water than that I would suggest a lower liner seal. The engine reconditioner should fix it for free as it would be re work for sure if they have just replaced the liners.
@@BundyBearsShedHi again Lance. Thank you for your reply. I have checked the alloy plug and from the top it looks ok. I guess the only real way of checking is to remove the head, but I don't want to do that before I speak to the people who did the overhaul. The level of water only leaks out to the level of the head gasket. When I look down through the cavity in the head between the second and third cylinder with a torch I can see water which is being disturbed by dripping but I can't see where it is coming from. I am pretty sure the leak is at head gasket level. It takes about 30 minutes to drain about 2 litres of water (After I added water to the radiator) down to head gasket level. What is the thing in the rear of the head and covered with an oval shaped cover plate? Is there any way my leak is coming from there? I now suspect that whatever is causing this leak was there before the overhaul because I was having trouble with oil leaking into the sump then, but thought it was the liner seals. I will contact the people who did the overhaul and see what they think. Your opinion and advice is greatly appreciated Lance. Thank you. Cheers Perry.
@@BundyBearsShed Hi again Lance. I took the engine back to the reconditioners and they found that the head around the water jacket had corroded so much that there was not enough flat area on the face of the head to seal with the head gasket. They built it up with some sort of filler and it seems fine now. It was very difficult to see this as a potential problem and they fixed it with no charge. Thank you again for your suggestions.
What is the ring gap?
0.003" to 0.004" per inch of bore
pritty tight those rings....
Yep all good though.
I think you will be soon changing your name from Lance to Slim
Still a bit to go yet Ron, but Im in no hurry.
I don't know about that Lance. That shirt is looking mighty loose on you.@@BundyBearsShed