Wood Gas Stove Science| TLUDs Explained | Camping Stove | Tent Stove
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
- Wood Gas Stove Science!! The quest for the eltimate DIY Wood Gas Stove for hiking and camping! Cooking and warmth! In this portion of the Wood Gas Stove Science Series I will be experimenting with a small Wood Gas Camp Stove! In this Episode we will discuss TLUDs construction and theory!
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The Wood Gas Stove SCIENCE series is an attempt to learn the science behind and how to optimize wood gas stoves. There are many videos of people drilling random holes in random cans and they are great! I have watched most of them and that is where I got my inspiration for this series. I will not show you how to build one until I have an optimized stove design. I am trying to find the correct ratio of can size, fresh air intake, primary and secondary air ports.
Thanks for watching and please stay tuned for more videos in this series.
Wood Gasifier, Wood Gas Stove, Paint Can Stove, Hobo Stove, Camp Fire, Burner, Wood Burner
This is a very interesting series. Thank you very much.
Thanks for watching!
That was very well explained.👍
Thanks for watching!
Your stove series is amazing. Make a video or two that are less than 60 seconds and add any tag word that applies. The goal is to getbinto the "shorts" algorithm. I got 6.3 million views and 22k subs from shooting a "fun" with a trigger lock on it. I think your work would appeal to more people.
Thanks for the info! That works? Wow! I have been doing this for 6-7 years and only have 5500 subs😂
Wow!! It's so inspiring to see someone so dedicated and passionate about his craft! Thanks so much for taking the time and effort to share your findings and understandings with all of us! I'm definitely going to use it!
Thanks for the comment! It was an obsession of mine for a while.
Excellent explanation
Thanks for the comment!
Best Explanation. Keep up the GOOD WORK
Thanks for the comment!
Excellent tutorial...
Thank you for watching!
Amazingly explained sir...I appreciated it a lot
You are most welcome! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the videos. I have enjoyed a few of them.
Thanks for the comment!
Thank you for the clear, visual explanation.🎉🎉🎉
Glad it was helpful!
Nice video !! Very helpful, thank you very much
Thanks for watching!
Excellent! I’m not at all bored by the science.
Thanks for watching!
Really helpful video.. thank you very much...
Thanks for watching!
Finally !!
You are awsome !!
I've been search for an explanation of how these stoves work for awhile now !!
Well done video explanation. 💯👍
Thank You !!
Thanks for watching!
well done
Thanks for the comment!
Thank you so much for this video, learned no much, I will spread the knowledge
Thanks for watching and hopefully this video helps someone better understand wood gas can stoves!
Man, you've done some amazing videos portraying the process of tweaking and perfecting a design. I have watched the whole science series in one sitting. It really shows how much effort goes into the creation of a product. Its a shame that your content isn't getting the views it used to. The change is shocking. Maybe this kind of content shouldn't have been made available to the public despite it helping me and others here. I would normally tell you to make a product line with your knowledge, but i'm afraid the products meet the same fate as your videos. But man they would be awesome ! A whole array of different sizes. But it's a lot of work and the reward isn't garanteed.
I'm sorry if i don't have any suggestions. Hope you are doing well. Amazing knowledge you have gained over the years.
Thanks for watching! And thanks for the comment!
Thanks for the comment!
It saddens me so that he didn't get the deserved attention, but that's just the RUclips algorithm working. Luck based, and many times depends on attention grabbers like misleading thumbnails. Ig it's just like life, we get screwed over by being honest while pricks get ahead
Never been so early. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you. I have been looking for this for ages. You are the first to explain the process.
Thanks for the comment!
@@heathputnam9524All the videos I see, show people burning pellets. It's a WOOD GAS stove. So why doesn't anyone try using WOOD as fuel? No body uses tree wood. I'm just going to burn plastic as fuel. Let's cut the bullshit. Why not use cooking oil and paperboard?
Id like to show a stove design that will have you running for cover.
It's anything but efficient or time saving design. The flame gets out of control. It only saves time once it's lit. The flame is very persistent in the heating chamber and shoots out the sides of the contraption. So, It's been about a 4 year trying to manufacture it from scrap. The design is ok. However I know it needs improvement.
The goal I had when I started,was to make a bio fuel stove using a dry burn. Not having to add fuel time and time again.
So, although I'm satisfied with the design. It's only
% 50 efficient since I have to constantly light the source by pumping air through a tube to ignite it.
Thanks, it's now well explain.
Thanks for the comment!
Fascinating how this works! Thanks for the explanation of the three phases!
Happy you liked the video!
Tis the season! I have a 1 pound 13oz can of cooked Yams. It is slightly smaller than the paint can. Going to follow your instructions and try to make a yet another stove.
Made my yam can stove this morning. Works great. Just a tad smaller and stronger.
Awesome! Happy to hear it! I always hoped with this series to help inspire people to try these stoves! It makes me happy when people share their experiences with me! Thanks for watching!
Better yet! Messing around with sizes.. I have now combined the yam can with the paint can! Cut both top and bottom of yam can and fits perfectly on top the paint can. The yam can fits perfectly into the paint can for storage. Very close to the Toaks stove.
Fantastic visual demonstration. Would you consider a video describing how the Joule-Thomson effect applies to your ultimate Wood Gas Stove? And, would it be possible to incorporate de Laval nozzles, utilizing the Venturi effect?
Both the Joule-Kelvin and the de Laval nozzle design require pressure and there is not actually any pressure in this system, only flow caused by rising air caused by heat. If you have other thoughts I would love to discuss! Thanks for the thought provoking comment!
THANK you for the clear detailed explanations. 👌🏻
Glad it was helpful!
Wow thankyou very much for the info, I'm amazed this is even possible to do, guess I'll have to make one to see it for reals.
Thanks again
Good luck! Watch some of my other videos to get a better understanding of wood gas can stoves! Thanks for watching!
I'd love to make one of these out of titanium pots for backpacking. You have really taken the fire science to the next level here.
Thanks for watching!
If you can, try to get a pure or nearly pure Ti and not an alloy. I don't know if it is definitely true or not, but I've heard from a few different sources that pure or nearly pure Ti handles these very hot temperatures without degrading, much better than the Ti alloys.
@@justinw1765 You do have a point, but you won't be able to get your hands on pure Ti AFAIK. Still any titanium alloy burn chamber would greatly help the design since it is a good heat conductor, increasing air suction to the secondary air vents. Although that would influence the primary to secondary air rations and require tweeking of the ratio.
Thank you! Now i understand how this effect works.
Thanks for watching!
Cars in Europe during WWII were converted to running on wood gas. The only difference here is your secondary burn happens at the top of the stove. In a car the wood gas from a "stove," usually on back, was introduced into the intake manifold and burned explosively in the cylinders. Not too efficient but better than walking. Wood as such fuel has to be dry for this to work.
Thanks for watching!
Question 1: How long time does it give yellow flames compared to the time it gives blue flames? I ask because as far as I know, yellow flames deposit black soot on the bottom of the pot, whereas blue flames do not.
Question 2: What would be needed to get blue flames all the time (in a wood stove), like in a kerosene stove?
The yellow flame runs about half the burn length and converts about the same time all the wood has turned to char. During the char phase the flames are blue. Thanks for asking.
Great demonstration. Thanks heaps for this information. Australia
Hope it helped! Thanks for the comment!
This is fantastic! So clear.
Thanks for the comment!
What a great explanation and animation ! Great work best one on the net :)
Thanks for the comment!
Hi.. not boring and not too slow.. lol
In one word: BRILLIANT! 🙌
Thank you for educating me on this science 🎈(absolutely practical worthwhile knowledge in initiating my own diy project, as I finally enter retirement)
I was on the verge of paying $$$ on a smokeless fire pit.
I've seen many diy projects, and it's obvious they are taking the “hit and miss” approach. They “look good” in execution, but I question their overall effectiveness throughout.
Keep enriching our lives and stimulating our brains!
Many thanks!! 👋
Thank you! And thanks for watching!
Awesome
Thanks for the comment!
Very much thanks for the detailed explanations! 🙂
Hope it helped! Thanks for watching!
I had no idea it worked this way, thanks for the great videos!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks Heath for the excellent video!
Thanks for watching!
I'm pretty sure my ACE hardware store has metal gallon paint cans. I work in a situation where we have a certain number of 5 gal steel solvent cans become available a year. I'm looking to make a fire pit and some other things from them. I'm wondering what the optimal spacing is between the walls to get heat transfer to the secondary air.
I’ll check my local ACE to see if gallon cans are available. Thanks for watching!
Absolutely fantastic video 📹
Thanks for watching!
I don't like this video...I LOVE it. It is very concise, and informative, and answers so many questions I had. Thank you for making the effort. I rate this a 6 out of 5 stars. Well done.
Thank you for the comment!
I'm trying to build one of these to boil water for cooking peanuts.
Is there a sort of fast and loose ratio for larger TLUDs as far as Secondary jet sizing? My source material is 5 gallon steel race fuel cans and maybe an old stainless cooking pot if it nests nicely with an air gap, so roughly 12" in diameter.
Start at about 1/4 - 3/8 inch in diameter and start with a ratio of about 4-1 primary to secondary holes. Let me know if you have other questions!
Extraordinary. 🌝
Thanks for watching!
Hey brother,
First off, you have the best videos, very descriptive. Could you direct me to the video that gives best optimization measurement for making one. Ive made a functioning one but dont know how to optimize it
Thanks for the comment and I have a video on “How to optimize wood gas stoves” in my Wood Gas Science Series. Hope it helps!
thank you so much for being the only person who explains what is happening with these magnificently popular stoves. I love it. I have been searching for this information.
I'm wondering if increasing the surface area of the space between the two canisters, with fins attached to the inside vessel, might help to heat up the air even faster. the convolutions on the inner can is already doing this. Is there a way to increase the surface area even more? It would be the same volume of air (or very slightly less) between the vessels, but with dramatically more surface area to heat it. Would this make the stove burn even more efficiently?
Can you speak to any of these elements?
Thank you so much
I tried the fins but it seemed to slow the airflow up between the cans. Your idea makes total sense but in practice it does not seem to help. Thanks for the comment! Keep them coming!
love you see you back sir, your design and modification are mindblowing but hoping to see a stove where you use wood and leaf instead of pallets as that will have more practical use in camping and other occasions
Thanks for the ideas! Thanks for watching!
I have copied one of the early models and use it in the back yard to make a pot of coffee once in a while. I have a few fruit trees that need to be pruned annually. So, I have been using twigs to fuel my stove and it works well. Mine is not well built like the later designs and usually burns out after the wood gasification stage. Since I know the soil chemistry where these trees are growing I feel safe using the charcoal as a soil amendment in my gardens.
When you get a really efficient stove it converts to gasifying the charcoal and you get blue flame! (Seen only at night) if this happens you only end up with a tiny amount of white ash. But if you want charcoal to amend your stove you can just dump the char out when the yellow flame ends! Thanks for the comment!
Can I ask you? The unburnt gases and soot from the central chamber meet with the super heated fresh air convecting through the walls, replenishing the oxygen levels burned off in the initial burn, giving the secondary burn? This is how i understand the process. Your video seems to basically agree with my own conclusion. If thats true then thanks so much.
Because there's some weird science out there about these stoves.
Great stoves though.
Yours Grant. 🌋
The flame actually lifts up to the level of the secondary ports. The area between the flame at the secondary ports and the fuel is the pyrolysis zone. No oxygen so no flames. Other than that your thought are correct! Thanks for watching!
Yes please more very educational, but is this system efficient with charcoal for a cooking purpose
I have a cooking video where I put on a damper which slowed the burn for cooking! Thanks for watching!
Know I know how to properly use my stove. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Hello! do you have some formula to calculate area of holes in cans? I have cans, that fit together, but they are not the same as you are using.
The best explanation may be the Vortex 5.4 video for hole size and spacing. Try that and see if it helps. Thanks for watching!
Did you ever test how long a full stove would produce heat and could you use left over charcoal from a firepit as fuel?
Great content in this series.
One cup of pellets will give about an hour of good heat which includes the initial burn then the consumption of the char after the conversion. I have not tried starting with charcoal! That would be interesting! Thanks for watching
Hi! I love your content and watched all the stove series (also the old videos). You are very technical and i appreciate it, also i like the new 3d model and the new mic. I saw that you worked around the ratio between primary and secondary holes and that too much holes kills the flow, my question is: as the holes in the chimney help pull the air up and form a more efficent tornado effect does it mean that keeping the ratio but improving the air ascendance velocity help the combustion?
I was thinking of something like putting a fan under the primary holes (a non motorized one but moved with the wind itself) or a fan shaped form that help convey the air (i think it would fit in your previous and more spacious design).
The design of the Pot Stand/Chimney is extremely important to the system as a whole. You might be on to something! Thanks for watching!
Is there a risk for blocking the upgoing airflow if you pack the woodsticks to tight when you load the stove and try to start burning from the top?
I have done that, it shouldn’t be a problem.
Nevermind i found the series
Happy you found the series.
Is there a way to control the air/gas flow so that the flame power is also adjustable? This way I could make the fuel last longer while producing a low flame, and vice versa.
Yes there is a video in the series, it shows me cooking shrimp for breakfast but also shows a air adjustment that seems to work well. Thanks for the comment!
Thank you for this.
I was looking for how a charcoal producing TLUD was different from a gasification stove.
From you presentation, I don't think there is a difference, except in how they are used.
If the design isn’t “right” the stove will extinguish itself right at the conversion to char burning. But if you want charcoal with this or any other can stove dump the stove out when the yellow flames disappear. Thanks for watching!
When I built my first stove I knew nothing. I used a Hunt's pasta sauce can and a Campbell's soup can. First thing I did was drill holes around the bottom of the can, which was really the top of the stove because the can is upside down. So I had a row of 3/8" holes around the top edge of the outer can. As I learned a little, everybody knew these were downdraft stoves where the smoke is sucked down and then goes up between the cans to ignite. I expected a lot of smoke to come out of the holes that shouldn't be there, but it didn't! I'm sure it affected the burning, but it still burned without smoke. It took a while to understand but when I found out how they really work it made sense.
I hope my videos have helped in some way! Thanks for watching!
That was great, thank you! Just discovered your channel and now going back through all your videos.
One question (sorry, I probably missed the answer) how do the phases effect running temperature?
If one were cooking over a wood gas stove is the final char phase going to be the hottest, like a charcoal barbecue?
Cheers.
The first phase is the hottest the conversion is the shortest phase and the coolest the char burning phase is in the middle, but is about right for simmering. Thanks for watching!
This as my question too. I’m also concerned about the tar collecting on my pot, I’ll look to see if that’s addressed
how can we design air hole diameter and air flow rates
I am working on that! Thanks for the comment!
Your design burns so well.
Thanks for watching!
A+! Well done 👏!
Could you please put 2 wood gas wood stove together as a burn comparison. One built to perfect design and the other that looks like its right but not the best design? Maybe the one having too much air flow or not enough. I want to see burn times and flame height. Its a lot too ask so no worries if it doesn't happen. Your videos are great to watch.
I could try to do that, but it may not happen. I have been in North Carolina for the last six months for work and am going back to Arizona at the end of September. I do not play with fire out there:) too many wildfires! Thanks for watching!
That's okay. I'm enjoying your other videos. Love the final build on the paint can. It has everything.
Btw does painted your cans to make them last longer?
Yes, if you use high temp paint it keeps them from rusting out as quickly! Thanks again for watching!
How would you scale this to something like a 55gal barrel?
I have not worked on larger models. Unfortunately they do not scale due to the fact the flame cone needs to fully close off to form a pyrolysis zone. A drum might be too large for this to occur. Thanks for the comment!
i love what you do man. i think i have an idea for you. Can you change the primary holes with wire mesh so the ratio can be even more.
Thanks for the suggestion. I have tried that in the past and it does allow a higher ration of primary to secondary air but it only seemed to consume fuel faster and did not like to convert from consuming wood gas to consuming char (blue flame) smoothly. I have always strived for a goal of smokeless burning throughout. Your idea may have applications so I will keep it in mind! Thanks for the comment!
@@heathputnam9524 do you also add the secondary hole to make it 1:5 ratio? then what happened? is it better or just make it worst. and i think you can upload the mistake you made so the other don't have to make the same mistake
@@heathputnam9524 and i'd love to see the whole process not just the succeed one so people know you can make this stove better because you have tried many ways (also the failed attempt) to make it better
Your design is awesome, I'm using it down here in Costa Rica. I was curious if you have ever considered adding waste oil drip as a fuel supplement along with the wood? Living in the an area that is very damp sometimes getting dry wood is a challenge and perhaps a bit of oil would burn hot enough to burn off any smoke?
That is interesting, I have not explored that but it may have some merit. It would have to be introduced inside the pyrolysis zone where the oil could super heat and vaporize. Thanks for an intriguing idea! Thanks for watching!
@@heathputnam9524 So, have you tried what @Bushcraft Costa Rica was suggesting? Any interesting result?
Thank you for the visualization and explanation. So the big picture, we have three steps of burning (the fire is always started from the top):
1. Initial burning, the air (which includes the oxygen) is coming through the primary holes from the bottom and is going up to the fire through the wood. Further I suppose there is also air coming from the open top directly to the flame.
2. Wodgas production and burning process. As the wood below the flame gets extremely hot, woodgas is coming out of the wood below the flame. Now it seems the gas flow in the middle changes from going up to going down. Correct? The woodgas is going through the primary hole up to the secondary holes. When coming out it mixes with air and gets burned. Slowly the wood converts to wood coal. It seems its necessary that the top of the wood is nearly closed so that very little air can go through the middle down to the primary holes.
3. When all the wood is converted to wood coal a 3rd process starts where the now produced wood coal burns. I suppose the air for the fire is coming through the primary holes and the top of the flame. The secondary holes are not needed anymore. Correct? When this is done we have only a little ash.
You have one and three correct. Step two is the most difficult to mentally grab ahold of, so that is why I tried the visual. The conversion from your stage one to two starts with the temperature of the flame getting extremely hot and starts producing more wood gas. At the same time the air is rising between the cans and becomes super heated as well. A secondary combustion starts at the secondary holes. Wood gas is rising from the fuel past the super heated secondary air coming out of the secondary ports, this air is so hot it ignites the wood gas. At this point (in a well designed stove) a pyrolysis zone is created. Now fully in phase two. This is when the flame closes the top of the burn chamber off and does not allow air to enter from outside. During this phase the air flowing through the primary ports slows to almost nothing and the secondary air flow increases. Wood gas never seems to flow out of the primary air holes and up to the secondary holes. It just seems it because the secondary holes look like the flame is coming out of them… so they must have wood gas coming out, right? No, it is just an optical illusion. This phase continues until all the wood ( fuel ) has been converted to gas and all that remains is carbon… charcoal.
As in the name TLUD this stove is Up Draft. A well built stove will go through all these stages with virtually no smoke and will end the burn with a tiny amount if white ash left.
This ash will contain heavy metals, arsenic, and other less than desirable materials( so don’t eat it! Haha!) hope this help and doesn’t make it more unclear. Watch the video again and think about my explanation during the second phase. Thanks for watching!
@@heathputnam9524 Thank you for the quick reply and the good explanation.
Min 4:07, Min 5:00 and Min 7:00 help to understand. The past days I was playing around with a pre-manufactured, I suppose China, stove in varying the burning materials.
I got interested if it is possible to have a small permanent woodgas production where I can store the gas in a gasometer etc.
There was a good video from Zurich Switzerland ruclips.net/video/kqtYvCpYti8/видео.html (that's part 2) and also a good new drizzler style with ceramic pellets inside.
ruclips.net/video/O68leZPyMUQ/видео.html (Sorry, both in German language). Where I also learned a lot is here: ruclips.net/video/HQIW4dVVokE/видео.html (he has several designs). Storage here as an example: ruclips.net/video/Agl9WiEP6Lc/видео.html
Currently I am at the conclusion, storage of woodgas, if easy possible, yes. E.g. to heat up water.
But nowadays we can easily produce electricity and store it for short time. So there is the idea producing gas from Electricity/Plasma: ruclips.net/video/zX6cQ1ian14/видео.html (but that's a different story. There a generator could be considered.
Having your Vortex 5.4 in mind and some more background also from your videos maybe I get an idea for a permanent, ongoing woodgas production. Thanks a lot.
A very good answer! Thank you!
Thanks Bjorn!
Thank you for your work, these are the best videos on the subject. What i'm wondering about in regards to the process of gasification is this: how finicky is this process? does it only work with well-dried uniform material like torrefied biomass and pellets? is it more efficient than a rocket stove, which can be fueled by tree trimming and trash wood?
The process of gasification in an open to air vessel is finicky and that is why it has taken me so long to perfect a can stove. A can stove is sensitive to the fuel charge. Most people do not take enough care in the preparation of the fuel. Pellets are compact and when loaded have a high fuel to air ration. (not many air gaps between the pellets)
A rocket stove is a different beast. It burns quickly with a ton of air rushing by the fuel. Not much gasification going on unless you have secondary air inlets then you may take some advantage of burning the limited wood gas that is produced.
I’d you are looking for a stove that you can continue to feed and burn for extended periods of time then a rocket is probably your best bet. If you want a smokeless, efficient, light weight stove for hiking and or camping that you can boil some water or cook a quick meal then can stove is for you.
@@heathputnam9524 thank you for responding, i will try making both a gasifier and a rocket stove using cans and see which works better
Just contact me if I can help!
@@heathputnam9524 Some rocket stove designs compensate for the lack of secondary air inlets by super insulating the fire box so that gasification does happen through the very high temps within same. This doesn't work very well with steel, because it will degrade the steel fairly quickly (that and steel conducts the heat too much). Things like insulated cob, steel lined with ceramic fiber, etc work better.
I went to a cob rocket stove workshop not long ago, and the cob rocket stove that the folks had built into their home, was super efficient and clean burning. They said that in the exhaust was mostly just warm water vapor (once everything was up to temp). That seems to indicate a more full and complete combustion is occurring.
What's providing the fuel needed to sustain the flame? If it's the wood pellets, then why aren't they being combusted instead of pyrolyzed? Not sure I understand the concept of the "pyrolysis zone"
Wonder what would happen if you put a jacket around it filled with pearlite or other high temp insulator. Without covering up the primary holes of course.
That would be an interesting experiment! Thanks for the comment!
Can you make one video on how much kg fule run for how long...
Where can I get the ratio of holes that need to be drilled? I will be building one out of a double walled thermos container, stainless steel of course.
I have a short series of videos on using a stainless thermos. Check them out! Thanks for watching!
Hi I have a quick question, at 2:18 you said the stove should only be lit from the top, this stove can only be used in batch mode so how do you refill it for continous usage? do you have to put out the burning char, refill and relight it?or can it be reloaded with the burning char still at the bottom? I've played with rocket type stove and refilling is straight forward
You can reload it during the first burning stage before converting over to char gasification, but it will smoke a few seconds since you interrupted the pyrolysis zone.The design is intended for quick cooking/boiling with a light small stove. For day tripping and hiking where weight needs to be conserved. The useable cooking time is about an hour per load. The original gasification of fuel lasts about 25-30 minutes then a well built stove converts over to burning the char. After an hour all you have is a bit of white ash. If you truly need continuous heat this design probably is not for you;)
@@heathputnam9524 I like the idea of smokeless burning but using this as a redesigned rocket type heater, not for cooking, after posting this a I found another video on smokeless burning, this is using a 50 gal drum but I can scale this down for my workshop, the design is the same as what you have been using, the only concern I have is loading with wood every hour, with the rocket heater I can feed it whenever I need to
nice job, thanks for your work, do you think he can be combine whith a rocket stove alimentation for smaler version ?
Love from France
Thanks for watching! I think it could be combined!
Something I have wondered about is the possibility of using a TLUD wood stove with a glass chimney and 'gas' mantle to make a practical lantern like the insanely bright Aladdin lamps.
I did a video using a hurricane lamp globe it made a beautiful light! Thanks for watching!
Unless I misunderstood, wouldn't this process also reduce significantly the production of carbon monoxide gas, Making it much safer?
Yes, but I do not talk about it because I do not want people to try to use this inside. Thanks for watching!
Do you have some recommendations for build a large stove (fire pit) 60cm of diameter?❤
could this also work with a long (high) model like 1 meter to get a longer burn time ? or do I need to drill more holes in the sides on different highth to have still some air reaching the top level of the wood pellets.
I would like to build something like this from long metal air Chanel tubes.
hi
can you make charchoal that way?
Once conversion to burning charcoal (blue flame) dump to stove and you will have charcoal. Thanks for the comments!
@@heathputnam9524 thanks for the responce
Are you still working on those projects? Are blueprints available?
has your understanding or theory of how the air flows in the stove changed since the glass jar stove video? that was quite a while ago.
Yes absolutely. My original statements in my glass video about wood gas flowing out the bottom of the burn chamber and out the secondary holes was based on the theories that were floating around at the time. I have since realized the stoves act as updraft all the time and the wood gas is created and burned within the pyrolysis zone above the fuel and below the flame cap. The most efficient burn is achieved if one can fully enclose the pyrolysis zone with flame and not allow outside air to get inside the system. If outside air is introduced (other than through the fresh air intakes) you will get smoke from the stove. These can stoves are what I call naturally aspirated and the system is delicate because it relies solely on natural air flow to make it work. Hopefully this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@heathputnam9524 thank you for the reply.
I made few years back with a few cans and it would have worked perfect because it all fit inside my stanely camp cook set/cup. only draw back was that the cans got dirty and rusted easily after being burned up and got the inside of cup filthy.
I paint mine with high heat paint. It helps for a little while. Thanks for watching!
arsenic belongs to laurel wood, i reckon
Every wood has some sort of bad compound that ends up as ash at the end of the burn. Thanks for watching!
What about making an optimized wood gas stove out of a 1 gallon paint can?
I’m having trouble finding a metal 1 gallon can! Thanks for the comment!
@@heathputnam9524 or maybe from a #10 tin can.
The Lowe’s near me carries the empty 1 gallon paint cans.
Lowe’s here only sells plastic ones.
Sir, your video caught my attention, as I have been looking for a long time to make something for myself similar to what you demonstrated.
It so happened that I have a distant, sparsely developed country plot for gardening. I rarely go there and am practically in camp conditions. I'm not drive a car, partly for health reasons, partly for off-road reasons, and therefore I take with me only what is necessary, weighs little and does not take up space, or what I don’t mind leaving in place, something that is not a pity to leave on the spot, in case the left thing during my absence will find another owner from among passing mushroomers and tourists, and sometimes vagrants, which are not rare in these places, especially after the end of the mushroom season.
I use a travel gas burner, and sometimes a titanium folding wood chip stove, ready-made, from the store. Gas is not entirely compatible with the rules for using public transport, which is where I travel most of the way, and I prefer a wood chip stove with pellets or charcoal for one or two cooking sessions.
Since I rarely go there, I didn’t build an outdoor fireplace, a Dakota stove, or similar permanent structures on the site for safety reasons, especially in my absence. A folding steel rocket stove weighs about 5 kg, and is also out of consideration. Since a pensioner has a lot of free time, and the cost of purchased tourist stoves is comparable to the amount of a pension, I decided to try to make my own pyrolysis wood chip stove or burner from scrap materials, which could fit in a backpack pocket and would be compatible in size with the already with the existing wood chip stove and would ensure heating of a single portion of canned food and boiled water brought on back, without the need to cook on this fire source, i.e. up to 1 liter at a time, approximately. Knowing the heat of combustion of wood (charcoal takes longer and is more difficult to ignite), we can determine that the volume of a small tin can, 0.4 liters, will most likely be enough for the fuel load, and about one and a half of this volume is needed for the combustion chamber, i.e. this is a feasible task.
In addition, regarding the design, it seems to me, a priori, that if you reduce the turbulence at the supply of cold air and at the outlet of heated air, for example, by twisting the flow along the channels, then the combustion intensity can be increased and at the same time the size of the combustion chamber can be reduced. Unfortunately, my knowledge of thermodynamics is limited by the amount of general knowledge acquired at school and at the institute, and I have always delegated thermomechanical solutions in my projects to specialists. In this case, I turned to empirics, since now you can carry out experiments not only and not so much yourself, but carefully study various videos that show different options for a camp wood chip burner.
I must say and note that your video I found today seems to be the best in terms of clarity of graphic illustration and clarity of presentation out of more than fifty different videos I watched on this topic.
I am sincerely glad for your hard work and resourcefulness. I wish you success in your interesting projects.
Thank you sir! I hope my videos have helped you in your remote gardening area!
What happend when you put a heat riser/shimney on top of it? I think this wil enhance the draft of air and act like a rocket stove.
I want to have a stove that burns on shells from chestnuts, hazelnuts and acorns. I eat them a lot so I have whole mountains of these shells. I have made a woodgasifier myself and they do burn very well in it althrough very short. Is it possible to attach a pipe on the side of the stove to have them gravity fed? Or would adding new shells disrupt te pyrolysis by cooling it to much?
This will burn the shells and leave you with just a tiny bit of ash. You can top load it as long as you do it within the first half of the burn. And do not top the stove off. It will effect the pyrolysis zone but it will recover quickly because the stove is so hot in that phase of the burn. Let me know how it works!
@@heathputnam9524 indeed if I ad new shells when it is almost finished it is going to give of a whole lot of smoke
You said you had to tinker with the primary and secondary air flow of the tent stove. Will you be coming out with a perfected version of that anytime soon.
Have you considered making one of these types of stoves to run off alcohol or heat I would think that wood gas and alcohol gas would work the same way. Evernew And goshawk Have their multi fuel versions. Too expensive though. I think that would be a great project for you to try, Hint, hint.
Great idea! I’ll look into it! I’ll have to dig out my Tangia and do some thinking on the subject! Thanks for watching!
I use a DonFrancisco coffee can, and a Progresso soup can.
Thanks for the comment!
@@heathputnam9524 I think you are the one who got me interested in wood gas. I really like your vortex effects. I’m kind of popular at work. I buy and make the coffee lol. It’s for that cool 1lb can. Later
Hopefully my audio and videos are better. LOL! Thanks for watching!
Another question: Have you experimented at all with wax stoves? Do you think that the vortex principle could be applied to wax burners? Though, off the top of my head, I think there are some definite differences.
Do not know anything about wax stoves! I’ll Google them! Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for these inspiring videos I’m binge watching! I’m thinking of making a couple of these with my sons for backpacking. Would this work decently well enough with gathered dry sticks or do the require hardwood pellets?
If you were to isolate the primary and secondary air inlets would the stove still work? If the air is coming in the secondary air inlets then dividing into two flows, one up the sides and the other up through the primary inlets, it shouldn't matter if they were isolated.
I have a video on that exact experiment and the separation of the primary and secondary actually make for a higher brighter flame! Look for my video titled "Dueling Wood Gas Stoves". Thanks for the comment!
Hi, I have a really old multifuel/log burning stove, I would love to add some tubes to it with air holes in that would help with a secondary burn. Do you have any videos or ideas on how to make an old house hold log burner an efficient smokeless one?
Thank you. Love your videos.
Hi you may wanna check Mr Teslonian, he's got some more engendered gasifiers, but the principle is the same, you need to create a scaled feeder of hot air on top of the stove.
Dear chime in on the hybrid...
So, I am wondering why everybody thinks hot secondary air is important. Did anyone tested this claim with cold/ambient air at secondary inlets? It would be more thermodynamically efficient, cold air behind denser in terms of oxygen content...
I have not tried that because the hot air rises naturally up between the cans. I have not figured how to get cold air into the stove without the help of a pump or fan. I have burned with no outer can and the results are not good. Thanks for the question! A
I would like your help on designing my stove here. I just found a single piece of quite heavy duty stainless steel double walled planter I think. It has an angled lip on the inside top edge so I think it will be perfect to push that hot air out the inside up and in at 45 degrees.
OD 4.75"
ID 4 1/8th"
OH 7 1/8"
IH 6 3/8ths"
Now I think I get the basic principles but you kinda lost me on the math on the earlier vids of this series.
Because it's all one piece and the gap between layers is only a 1/4" or so drill I can foresee being a problem, as I would rather not cut it apart.
I have basic tools, and steel drill bits but they don't go much wider than like 12mm maybe and I can't use a roundout bit, you know those tapered ones what ever they are called because I can't separate the layers so should I add more smaller holes or holes in a different pattern or just save up for some other drill bits...I may be stressing overly cause I have no idea what this item is supposed to be for as I found it for £1 in a charity shop, so I have one chance to get it right.
I may be feeling lost also because it was a while ago I watched the other vids and I will revisit the series but if you have the time to think about how you would go about a single piece design...I would appreciate it.
Edit, okay, turns out it's a white wine cooler...not a lot of good examples of nice clean burns that I found on ytube already tho, only two i've seen, one doesn't even count because he added a fan and the other I feel compared to your jets just looks very inefficient.
I found one of those at goodwill and thought I should make another stove. Unfortunately I didn’t buy it, but I do not get a lot of interest in my stoves anymore. Let me know if you have questions in the future.
@@heathputnam9524 Well I still have these questions now...
Because it is a solid piece it's tricky man...
OK… the secondary holes will obviously be the easiest to drill. These should be 3/16 - 1/4 diameter. No larger or your flame jet will not have any power. I’m not sure about the 45 degree angle but you can try it. I think it will not produce a good sealed pyrolysis zone(oxygen free burn zone).
The air intake holes(the ones around the outside) can be any size or number. Start small and go larger after the build. You want unfettered fresh air flow but too much will allow wind to effect the natural flow within the two walls. You will know if you need bigger holes because the flame will pulse during the burn.
The primary holes(bottom of the inner can) will be the hardest to drill. They will probably require a long drill. If you are going to burn pellets do not go larger than 1/4 inch or the pellets will fall through.
The ratio of primary to secondary air should be about 4:1… if you use a 1/4 on both sets of holes drill as many holes in the bottom as possible then drill 1/4 as many around the top.
Making a one piece stove is not going to be easy. But take your time and be as accurate as you can. I would go back and review a few of my series.
Good luck and keep me posted. Warning: that stainless steel drills very hard!
I would really like to see you make one of these Gasifier stoves using a gallon paint can for the outside. If that doesn't interest you as soon as I find the right inner can I'll let you know in another post maybe you can shed some light on the primary and secondary holes. I won't be able to use your math formula, not that smart.
That sounds good! Let me know if you find one! Thanks for the comment!
what if you built a tall tower stove with a number of "secondary inlets"? would that not kill all the smoke as the smog moves up?
God speed anwyay
It can help! The pot stand does certainly help, but the taller the stove the more unstable it becomes! Thanks for the comment!
@@heathputnam9524 Hi Heath, great material you've got in this playlist, very enjoyable the watch. If I may, wouldn't the increase of the chimney speed up the burning process creating stronger rising forces? Thanks for sharing your creations!
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks for the comment!
Faz um video de como fazer passo a passo? Seria ótimo !
Thanks for the comment!
@@heathputnam9524 De nada. 😍🙋
Sorry but this is wong explanation .
In a TLUD ,the holes on the bottom act as venturi and they draw the smoke down wich gets mixed with air and exits on the top holes.
The upper part draws air from the top through the flame.
To realise this is simple : you only need to estinguish the flame to see that the smoke gets out on the top holes.And the smoke can do that ONLY after it traveled down through the wood bed.
Please watch this video where I debunk that myth!
Dualing Wood Gas Stoves!! Downdraft Debunked?
ruclips.net/video/b0vM9aD78XY/видео.html
The air gets super heated as it moves up between the cans and mixes with the wood gasses and ignites. The flame at the top of the can creates a pyrolysis zone above the fuel creating this very strong burn. Thanks for commenting!
Instructions unclear, accidentally made arsenic dust.