I have a 2008 Yamaha 250 HPDI with about 190 hours on it. Have Run it only in fresh water on central Texas lakes. Have developed an overheating problem that seems to be causing calcite crystals to form while the T-stats are removed. Will try your technique to flush the system. Many thanks for your thorough explanation of your process development. Excellent work.
Great Video, you stayed on the subject and didn’t make the video longer by included a lot of personnel information to get more adds. I like the way you thought everything out and trouble shot the clearing of the engine water Jackets. Thank you for doing a the homework for a lot of us guys who might someday have the same issues.
This stuff is excellent, used it myself once before and born again boating also did a video on it. It’s called Rydlyme, dissolves all deposits cooling system will perform like new.
Thank you! I've heard of Rydlyme but wanted to try the vinegar first. If this issue resurfaces I will definitely look into more of the products marketed specifically for engine descaling.
@@BlackHoleDIYjust use HCl at 6% next time. It works much better than vinager. But wear eye protection! Rince with water or salt away afterwards to neutralize the HCl. Rydlyme is just HCl with some addictives.
I've done this vinegar treatment on my outboard a couple times but it never gets the water jackets completely cleaned out. I had great results using Hammerhead Marine Descaler instead of the vinegar.
I think that's fair to say. I would agree that any significant blockage, or when the vinegar is ineffective, the next step is a strong acid product as you recommend or disassembly and mechanically cleaning the water jacket.
Please let me know where you purchased the tub you used with the lower unit installed. I've been looking for one to do a good flush besides just using the hose connection. Thanks
I purchased this Rubbermaid 100gal stock tank from Tractor Supply. www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/rubbermaid-structural-foam-stock-tanks-100-gal-capacity
Rubbermaid 100 gal stock tank. I provided a link in my other comment. The challenge is finding a tub large enough to accommodate the size of the lower unit with prop installed as well as tall enough so that the water level reaches the appropriate height on the lower unit.
Don't you think that it should remove at least the spring at the poppet valve? Otherwise Poppet wouldn't open until there is plenty of water pressure. A closed poppet valve doesn't allow the water to flow over the entire engine passages.
Hmmm... I'm not really sure. I'll have to read up on this a bit. I am under the impression that an open poppet valve serves to relieve pressure from the water passages and not necessarily increase water flow.
@@BlackHoleDIY if you look carefully at the water flow diagram and read the explanations by tge manufacturer you will see that below 1500rpm the water pressure would be too low and a closed poppet valve is necessary for the water reaching the upper parts of the cylinders head where the thermostats are located. But an opened poppet valve is necessary for the water to flow around the cylinders, exiting down only after poppet valve starts opening above 1500rpm, and should be totally opened when engine rpm are high enough. Otherwise the water around the cylinders jackets have nowhere to go and cannot exit. Mid cylinders first, and all cylinders second, will get very hot and so much heat will increase the temperature of the whole engine until the over temperature alarm sensor locat at one of the two cylinders heads, will send a constant beep alarm.
@@BlackHoleDIY If poppet is removed (or always opened) the low water pressure from waterpump at low rpm wouldn't be enough and engine will overheat after running too long at low rpm. Otherwise if poppet is always closed engine will overheat at high rpm. Thermostat controls water temperature at low rpms. Poppet valve is not a thermostat but a presostat which controls temperature at high rpm.
Hi William. The pump I used is rated at 1800gph. amzn.to/3ztSZ55 I did try a 600gph bilge pump and didn't feel like it produced enough flow to be effective.
No, I do not think it would be any more effective with the engine running. It is not recommended to run the engine for that length of time with only the muffs.
If you dont have a thermostat your engine will not reach the correct running temp and will have excessive wear. Removing thermostats is masking an existing problem only to create more problems. Might work for awhile but will eventually cause the ultimate demise of your engine. Tho could buy you a few more runs one the motor. Its only a matter of time when your motor will fail you completely at this point.
I have a 2008 Yamaha 250 HPDI with about 190 hours on it. Have Run it only in fresh water on central Texas lakes. Have developed an overheating problem that seems to be causing calcite crystals to form while the T-stats are removed. Will try your technique to flush the system. Many thanks for your thorough explanation of your process development. Excellent work.
Thank you! I hope it fixes your issue.
Great Video, you stayed on the subject and didn’t make the video longer by included a lot of personnel information to get more adds. I like the way you thought everything out and trouble shot the clearing of the engine water Jackets. Thank you for doing a the homework for a lot of us guys who might someday have the same issues.
I really appreciate the comment and feedback. Thank you so much @ralphc8500 !!
This stuff is excellent, used it myself once before and born again boating also did a video on it. It’s called Rydlyme, dissolves all deposits cooling system will perform like new.
Thank you! I've heard of Rydlyme but wanted to try the vinegar first. If this issue resurfaces I will definitely look into more of the products marketed specifically for engine descaling.
Has anybody ever tried CLR @@BlackHoleDIY
@@BlackHoleDIYjust use HCl at 6% next time. It works much better than vinager. But wear eye protection! Rince with water or salt away afterwards to neutralize the HCl. Rydlyme is just HCl with some addictives.
I've done this vinegar treatment on my outboard a couple times but it never gets the water jackets completely cleaned out. I had great results using Hammerhead Marine Descaler instead of the vinegar.
I think that's fair to say. I would agree that any significant blockage, or when the vinegar is ineffective, the next step is a strong acid product as you recommend or disassembly and mechanically cleaning the water jacket.
Please let me know where you purchased the tub you used with the lower unit installed. I've been looking for one to do a good flush besides just using the hose connection. Thanks
I purchased this Rubbermaid 100gal stock tank from Tractor Supply. www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/rubbermaid-structural-foam-stock-tanks-100-gal-capacity
Same, I’m curious what size tub to purchase
Rubbermaid 100 gal stock tank. I provided a link in my other comment. The challenge is finding a tub large enough to accommodate the size of the lower unit with prop installed as well as tall enough so that the water level reaches the appropriate height on the lower unit.
I would have thought vinegar would be a little weak, it might be worth using a stronger mix or something like salt away
How's the engine doing?
Sadly, my schedule hasn't allowed me to get back on the water yet. I'll be sure to report back with an update. I appreciate you asking. Thanks!
@freshlycutlawnservice Had the boat out this afternoon. Engine ran great. No overheating!!
Don't you think that it should remove at least the spring at the poppet valve?
Otherwise Poppet wouldn't open until there is plenty of water pressure.
A closed poppet valve doesn't allow the water to flow over the entire engine passages.
Hmmm... I'm not really sure. I'll have to read up on this a bit. I am under the impression that an open poppet valve serves to relieve pressure from the water passages and not necessarily increase water flow.
@@BlackHoleDIY if you look carefully at the water flow diagram and read the explanations by tge manufacturer you will see that below 1500rpm the water pressure would be too low and a closed poppet valve is necessary for the water reaching the upper parts of the cylinders head where the thermostats are located.
But an opened poppet valve is necessary for the water to flow around the cylinders, exiting down only after poppet valve starts opening above 1500rpm, and should be totally opened when engine rpm are high enough.
Otherwise the water around the cylinders jackets have nowhere to go and cannot exit.
Mid cylinders first, and all cylinders second, will get very hot and so much heat will increase the temperature of the whole engine until the over temperature alarm sensor locat at one of the two cylinders heads, will send a constant beep alarm.
@@BlackHoleDIY If poppet is removed (or always opened) the low water pressure from waterpump at low rpm wouldn't be enough and engine will overheat after running too long at low rpm.
Otherwise if poppet is always closed engine will overheat at high rpm.
Thermostat controls water temperature at low rpms.
Poppet valve is not a thermostat but a presostat which controls temperature at high rpm.
Thank you for taking the time to provide this explanation. This was very helpful for me!
Vinegar work on my outboard. Also ran vinegar in the heater core on my car 👍
Wow! Great video thanks
Thank you!
Do you have the link of that pump? Or how strong pump has to be?
Hi William. The pump I used is rated at 1800gph. amzn.to/3ztSZ55 I did try a 600gph bilge pump and didn't feel like it produced enough flow to be effective.
@@BlackHoleDIY do you think its more effective if I run the engine at the same time or it
S bad to run engine on muffs that long?
No, I do not think it would be any more effective with the engine running. It is not recommended to run the engine for that length of time with only the muffs.
Salt water ist good fore most outboards so i think there is a blocking stuff
dump the thermostate they are nothing but trouble i never run them
If you dont have a thermostat your engine will not reach the correct running temp and will have excessive wear. Removing thermostats is masking an existing problem only to create more problems. Might work for awhile but will eventually cause the ultimate demise of your engine. Tho could buy you a few more runs one the motor. Its only a matter of time when your motor will fail you completely at this point.