Headlight Cracking After Clear Coat application ( Not Every Clear Coat is the SAME)
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- Опубликовано: 10 июн 2020
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I’ve been saying this for years and alleged professional detailers call me every word in the book.
No 2k
No 3k
No 4K
Paint Clear !!!
what brand? or could you send a link? don’t want to make this mistake, thank you!
No matter what brand 2k coat are u use first apply plastic primer.I have a motip kit which incl. primer and coat.Its perfect colormatic or spray max 2k are the best out there.Indeed is different to paint because they use fat cap and just go with light and wet coat but not too slow.I made the same mistake.
I am on my 5th car for doing headlight yellowing sand back and clear coat. I only buy my clear coat from boutique car paint shop which is specific for car painters.
I had 2 brands from them sitting on my shelf which I had not used for about 2 years. They are acrylic,
I did 1 set of head lights and they come out beautiful like factory.
The can run out so I used the other one on the next car and got the egg shell cracking on first coat. I sand back to the plastic and remove factory clear coat. I don't use cleaner, just water that was pretty empty too and run out.
I went to the paint shop who gives advice too. They said it may have been coz the can was low that maybe there was too much thinners ratio on the bottom on the can or it could be reaction from the plastic in which case sand back a little and re-apply.
They gave me the brand that had previously cracked and said the other brand I had was discontinued. Alas I spent over an hour prepping the headlight and first coat cracked!
I sanded back with 1000>1500 and finally 2000 grit just enough to take most of the clear coat cracks out and ran another coat...cracks appeared. Again no cleaning agent used just water, all the same methods I used in the past and had success with the other clear coatings.
It was another friends car and they had to go so I put a second coat on to give it sun protection and packed up and said I will sand back and do another day and do some research.
My thoughts something to do with this type of clear coat or this type of headlight plastic it is a 2016 Hyundai. I imagine all hyundia's globally have same plastic in their headlights. I know it is not my painting or the weather as conditions are good and my application on previous work is perfect.
So on youtube and back to the paint shop.
Happy to report back I did another headlight with can that was cracking. Here was my solution
1. Hand wet sand back old top coat and back into plastic with 400/600/800/1200/1500/2000.
2. Dry headlight and area with clean bathroom towel (no cleaners used).
3. Tape off around headlight and newpaper.
4. Tack coat! This is where I got it wrong before. This is a really quick light coat which will look patchy and somewhat hazy coz it's so light.
5. Allow 2-3 mins to semi dry (don't allow to dry as next coat needs something to adhere too) climate dependant.
6. Next coat slightly slower so a little thicker now the headlight will start looking good
7. Allow to dry but to quiet so next coat can stick to it 3-5 mins (australian summer).
8. Last coat will be thickest and slowest pass if you have a proper spray can it will be really wide and misty and you can watch the coat going down as you spray if you concentrate.
9. Leave 30+mins to dry before removing masking tape and newspaper in case the wind blows the newspaper onto the clear coat and ruins your job (speaking from experience).
So the trick is a really quick spray as first coat which will be fast spray and look pig ugly patchy, 2nd coat full coat but keep it thin and last coat will be the thicker coat.
I would hold back on using anything to clean the lens after sanding unless you are certain it is not going to react with the clear coat
I had polished my lights and they got foggy and yellow again in a couple months, yesterday I did a lot of prep work and I used an old clear coat and this happened to me. Had me pisssssed but every L you take is a lesson well learned. Thanks every one for their input on this !
Sorry to hear that but you are right. You live and you learn. It must be the clear coat.
it's the thinner that's causing the crack. after hours of prep work, i use a 2k slow dry thinner to clean the surface. cracks keep coming and eating the plastic
I had the same happened to me, the first time temp was 35 degrees, I went back and sand it repaint in 45 degrees and the paint did not cracked.
Last night painted headlights in 60 degrees and the paint cracked. Same as yours.
Which product did you use the second time and did it cracked!
Any top coat crazing or cracking is caused by the top coat drying too fast or the substrate moving underneath. Obviously temperature plays a major part in this process as well as using the correct materials and procedures.
I like duplicolor crystal clear from any auto supply,plus they come with soft pressure caps installed
Thanks
Sent my car to a supposed car painter and apparently they did not cover the headlight properly . The clear coat left a flaky residue on the lens and when I peeled it off it left a definite burn in the shape it occupied. I tried a turtle wax product but it would not come off. Will probably have to sand it .
You got to use automotive grade clear coats. These types of clear coats bond with plastic, which means basically becomes a part of the plastic. You don't want that
Don't feel bad, I suck at rattle can, but hvlp is way easier. Keep in mind spray can clear is fornulated a lot thicker and doesn't atomize as well. 2k clear out of a gun is much much thinner and atomizes way better so you can get coverage without it globbing up
Thanks !! Yea man i hope 2k clear hvlp will be better! This particular can was just a absolute nightmare! Thanks for watching and giving feedback, I appreciate it ! 💪
Hey bro, awesome video. What's the most efficient way to sand down the cracked clear coat? I need to start over on my headlights.
Best would be to have a small orbital sander. Start with 500-600 grit. You can end up with around 800 then clear coat.
I repaired and painted around 50,000 vehicle wheels professionally over 15 years. In that time using PPG and a mini SATA hvlp and a few other professional grade paints I had maybe 4 wheels crack during the clear coat step. But I painted headlights with Rust-Oleum today and both cracked. I used a tack coat and I saw small cracks. So I went to first coat and it was fine at first then the cracks slowly appeared. Experience would usually fix the cracks with enough coats done slow enough. But nope. This was rattle can paint that said it would work on plastic. While I think it will stick to plastic for some reason headlights are gonna cause issues. The first headlight I cleaned with alcohol so I thought the cracking was from possible residue that soaked into the plastic. The second one I only wiped with water and had the same issue of cracking. I didn't think I'd have any issues because I've clear coated headlights before with no issues but I used my PPG clear. I don't know exactly what's happening(maybe off-gassing) except to say the cheap stuff is a guess as to whether it will work for whichever brand of headlight you're gonna spray. I've been able to fix cracking as it happened with other products but they wouldn't have worked with rattle can. I'm guessing there's not a huge difference between rattle can brand to brand so it's a tough guess which ones gonna work especially being hundreds of different lights. If anyone knows of a brand that has worked over and over again please let me know. Because just polishing the light is only gonna keep it shiny for a few months it needs to be cleared in my opinion.
Use the 2k clear in the can. Around $20 a can.
Thanks for your input
Great info. Thanks
Mix up 2 part opoxy and dip the lens in it", presto
I just used Krylon and had the cracking problem after good prep. (That's why I looked this up)
Are you able to salvage it ?
Thats the same crackin reaction I had when i sprayed rustoleum then automotive clear.. 😤😤
I got many videos coming out soon. I ran a few experiments. May help a lot of people looking at clear coats and Rustoleum.
How long did the Rustoleum dry before the 2k?
@@BulliKid i had 2 test panels first one was a year old rustoleum paint the other was 24hrs freshly painted with rustoleum that the one that wrinkled and cracked.
I just redid my headlights and used the exact same rust oleum automotive clear spray and had the exact same results with cracking and wrinkling!! Had to restart over again and looking to use meguiars headlight clear coat which I have had success in the past.
Yes this was a mess. Glad this was only a test and not my real lights.
You had to try mcguire's sealand Come in and spray can
DId this this weekend. Polished the hell out of them by sanding for 7 stages (3x because i wanted to even them out.). Used rustoleum 2x gloss clear, and it crazed the hell out of them.......sad part was that i was just going to paint them and then tint them......should have just tinted instead.
Very sad and feels like wasted time.
I just used the 2x clear white matte paint on 2 metal pieces of furniture, let them both dry & waited to clear coat. Crackles on one but not the other 😫
Wow I just had the same thing happen to me today! I sanded my headlights and cleaned them and used this same clear paint and it ended up cracking like that! I guess it was the paint!
Yea this is terrible. Goodluck fixing them.
how did you fix it?
For one your pressure is to hard and your way to close..and your out doors at least make a small spray booth where u can hang your lens those brands are all fine for a crystal clear finish it’s just your going to heavy and that causes cracking and spider web cracks..look into various caps with a better uniform soft release from Montana paints
Same here. I had the same can
Garbage can!
Exact same thing happened to me using Rustoleum. Headlight looked good till I hit it with clearcoat. Then turned into a disaster.
Yikes! I know it’s terrible
So what was the issue I’m having that right now
@@jonathanmagana2926 The clearcoat turned cloudy and cracked. I had watched videos on RUclips where they water sanded and then sprayed with clearcoat and turned out perfect. I done the exact same and all was fine until I sprayed the clearcoat and it made a mess.
It’s probably the clear you are using.
@@BulliKid Yeah. I don't doubt it was the clear I was using. I haven't had good luck with rustoleum clear.
Notification squad, interesting content
Appreciate the view! 👍
You know we stay in the building 💯✅
This happened to me today with my 8th gens headlights. Never again will I use cheap clear coat and I had to buy 2 new headlights.
Fkkk!!! That sucks man. Look at the restoration I did on my 8th gen with 2k clear coat. Came out amazing and perfect 1 year later.
@@BulliKid I was gonna use the Spraymax 2K Clear Coat that everyone knows it's the best but I received 3 expired cans from amazon and just got the cheap shit for now to finish the headlights off and all I got was cracks. It's just bad luck man.
I learned on the other headlights. 2k clear only. I did regular clear coat the first time I did them and after a year they were chipping and yellowing. Even though it said no yellowing. Garbage. Better off paying $100 for new set on ebay.
Rust-Oleum did the same to my car....
Sorry to hear that. It’s a mess
Oh that’s where my Mazda 3 headlight went 🥴
Hahaha
Yep. Used Rustoleum x2 and got the cracking. Will switch to auto paint shop 2k clear. Thanks for all the helpful comments on here.
dont use the junk guys, it cracks, it runs. no good for headlights.
I have tested over and over after wet sanding with 1500 and still cracks and runs.
It needs wider spray pattern and lighter discharge. HVLP
But krylon FUSION that's better for plastic
I fail to understand why you guys use uncertified clearcoats on headlights? As there's plenty to choose from!! As a rule of thumb if it's not written on the can for headlights only don't use it !!! As far any products made by 2k dont apply unless you wont to permanently damage your lenses, Spider cracking is synonymous with this product as is orange pill, And always ware a respirator and gloves, Certified clearcoats have done there homework when it comes to the science required to manufacture polycarbonate clearcoats why take unnecessary risk on cheap alternatives? 🤔🧐😊🇬🇧👍
Ur supposed to use adhesion promoter so the clear coat sticks to the plastic. And I use 2k clear coat
I sprayed 2k on headlights with no adhesion promotor and works good.
I use the plastic adhesive and mine still cracked. Tried it twice on 2 lights and went lighter each time but same results
Professional spray cans from a car paint shop have lower pressure, finer mist and wider. The spray cans you are using are terrible it was like a pressure jet this is only going to cause runs and uneven application
Can I wet sand the cracks? Or do I have to re sand???? 😑
Sand the hell out of them. Hopefully you can flattten it out.
If you get lucky? I've seen cracking that's gone clear though the polycarbonate unrepairable!!😢
Too thick. Don't do "heavy" coats. You should always go thin
it sprays very thick this can is not good. you cant go too light on clear coat either because it wont look wet
@@BulliKidYep that can is horrible piece of junk... good for spraying insects and thats about it
Failures make the Best Teachers.
I sprayed Carburettor cleaner on headlight glass and my glass is cracked like spider webs, anybody please tell me how to repair it
Ouch. You need to go to sand the hell out of them
Renew!!
Better clear caliper paint !
thanks
You use a lot of paint. I made the mistake 3 times and I believe That the spray is not correct for plastic.you need to spray the 1/3 of the amount you use in the first and second apply.
It sprays very thick and fast. Just a bad spray in general, application wise.
@@BulliKid I see it that it paint in a spot but I think if you do it really fast it is not a problem you must to spay from one side to the other at 1/3 of seconds after go down.
Wayyyy too heavy. I’ve done this to my headlights and I never had a problem with it running like this.
Yah this sprays like shit.
What clear do you used
I’ve used ;
Rust -oleum 2X ultra cover gloss clear
Krylon clear polyurethane
And there’s one more can in my car I’ll have to go look what brand name and then let you know.
But generally what I make sure to look for is that the spray can says FAST DRY, NON-YELLOWING & UV RESISTANT.
Also- I do all my coats exactly how you did the first coat. Try doing all your coats like that and see what results you get
It’s still 1k clear coat. They go bad in a year. Mine did. Now I recently sprayed them all with 2k